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  1. #1
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    New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29


  2. #2
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    I love my Pro29, but this new one.......

    not so much.

  3. #3
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    Why, it is a bit slacker, stiffer, and slightly shorter chainstays. Do you just not like the way it looks or is it something else?

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    mainly the look

    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer
    Why, it is a bit slacker, stiffer, and slightly shorter chainstays. Do you just not like the way it looks or is it something else?
    I really like the swoopy top tube on my 2009 frame. I like the helix on the downtube and I think it really does stiffen the frame laterally. I think that there is too little difference between the Ridgeline and the Pro29 now. I think Lynskey would have been better served to continue to make the Pro 29 with the helix downtube and maybe a swoopy, hydroformed top tube if they wanted to do something different. The hydroformed front triangles that they are making for the Titus rockstar look amazing.

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    BB is kinda high for a HT. Or is that just IMO?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wish I Were Riding
    BB is kinda high for a HT. Or is that just IMO?
    well...everything from your perspective is IMO

    i disagree anyway. especially with a supposed 100mm fork, which will of course physically sag more than a 80mm such that a smidgen higher static bottom bracket for longer fork makes sense since when "on the trail"/sagged, where it matters, it will yield about the same relative bottom bracket height.

    Further, 12.5" is a perfect BB height for lots of folks...some people actually have rocks and sh!t where yes, even on a hardtail too low of a BB is not my favorite thing. Nevertheless, a static 12.5" sound great to me for a non custom configuration where it can be generalized nicely

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruso414
    I really like the swoopy top tube on my 2009 frame. I like the helix on the downtube and I think it really does stiffen the frame laterally. I think that there is too little difference between the Ridgeline and the Pro29 now. I think Lynskey would have been better served to continue to make the Pro 29 with the helix downtube and maybe a swoopy, hydroformed top tube if they wanted to do something different. The hydroformed front triangles that they are making for the Titus rockstar look amazing.
    i think it looks badazz! sorry...i really think it does. having said that, it's not nearly as badazz as my FoSkey

  8. #8
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    Definitely think the 09 looks better, the helix toptube is an eye sore!
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  9. #9
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    I don't care for bent top tubes, so I like the way the 2010 looks better.
    In their write up the say it's:
    "not a do-all bike. Designed around the tight, twisty singletrack of the Southeast, this bike is at home on technical terrain and shines on fire roads and double track."
    So which is it?

  10. #10
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    This Helix shape seems like it is more obvious,more clear in the tubes now,but could be the photo quality...

    They claim it's stiffer now.I can't wait for the reviews...

  11. #11
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    Good job! Lynskey

    IMO both models look great!

  12. #12
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    Yeah, I think they look pretty hot myself. Although I admit I'm looking forward to seeing the fabled Foskey. AM hardtails are something that have really piqued my intersest since a buddy of mine got a 456 5 years ago, and Fo's build sounds about perfect.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CB2
    I don't care for bent top tubes, so I like the way the 2010 looks better.
    In their write up the say it's:
    "not a do-all bike. Designed around the tight, twisty singletrack of the Southeast, this bike is at home on technical terrain and shines on fire roads and double track."
    So which is it?

    That is kind of a funny ad copy. I mean, what else is left to ride on? I guess 'do all' means North Shore all the way through loaded touring or something.
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    I think "fire road" is a quite regional term. And when used in the southeast to describe the Pisgah area type terrain where Lynskey is located you have to realize it refers to anything wider than singletrack.

    So in Lynskey's description you have to put location in context to the term "fire road" which around here could be a flat road. But more than likely it goes up at 30-40 degree incline or has bowling ball sized rocks strewn everywhere and 3' drops!

    Maybe it's just the polite southern way to leave out the most important word, abandoned when referring to most area fire roads!?

    I've learned that just because it has the word "road" in it around here does not mean you could drive anything on it. It can be quite a challenge just to walk it!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive
    Fo's build sounds about perfect.
    oh stop I agree

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    I think the helix top tube looks 10x better than the sloped top tube. I'd be far more likely to buy this than the old PRO29. Looking forward to the reviews!

  17. #17
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    helix tubes stiffer or just marketing hype?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruso414
    I think Lynskey would have been better served to continue to make the Pro 29 with the helix downtube and maybe a swoopy, hydroformed top tube if they wanted to do something different. The hydroformed front triangles that they are making for the Titus rockstar look amazing.
    Yeah. I agree.

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    I thought the geometry of the PRO29 was different from the Ridgeline 29 in 2009. Now they are the same. So, the difference in the two models is the Helix tubes?

  20. #20
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    None got it

    Quote Originally Posted by None
    I think "fire road" is a quite regional term. And when used in the southeast to describe the Pisgah area type terrain where Lynskey is located you have to realize it refers to anything wider than singletrack.

    So in Lynskey's description you have to put location in context to the term "fire road" which around here could be a flat road. But more than likely it goes up at 30-40 degree incline or has bowling ball sized rocks strewn everywhere and 3' drops!

    Maybe it's just the polite southern way to leave out the most important word, abandoned when referring to most area fire roads!?

    I've learned that just because it has the word "road" in it around here does not mean you could drive anything on it. It can be quite a challenge just to walk it!
    I think None has ridden Farlow gap before. Technically I guess it's an old fire road but probably one of the most technically challenging roads you will ever ride.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMokErJqkik

  21. #21
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    I thought the geometry of the PRO29 was different from the Ridgeline 29 in 2009. Now they are the same. So, the difference in the two models is the Helix tubes?
    Yep, the Helix for sure. Maybe also a different tube set, rendering the Pro lighter (the figures on the website are estimates, so presently comparing between them is meaningless).

    The Helix should (stress on should) give you a stiffer front end and a responsive BB (read - no flex).

    I think Lynskey, rightfully so, has been sensitive to the general lambasting Ti is flexy and grabbed the bull by its horn.

    I may order one soon and give it a try. They have 15 days return policy (excluding shipping both ways) so the risk is minimal. If it is good as they claim, that would be a blast!!

  22. #22
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    I think Lynskey would have been better served to continue to make the Pro 29 with the helix downtube and maybe a swoopy, hydroformed top tube if they wanted to do something different. The hydroformed front triangles that they are making for the Titus rockstar look amazing.
    Form follows function...They wanted to make a better bike.

  23. #23
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    I love it,

    What's up with the white rigid fork? Is that a one off fork just for that bike or are they available through Lynskey? Fo? CF.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRAZY FRED
    What's up with the white rigid fork? Is that a one off fork just for that bike or are they available through Lynskey? Fo? CF.
    ha...i asked as well what fork that is, i dunno but likely somebody here does. just a repaint of an existing fork no doubt????

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    What's up with the white rigid fork?
    465mm repainted. Belongs to their employee/racer Jamey.

    P.s: in the video the frame doesn't look that hot. Might be the prospective?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    Form follows function...They wanted to make a better bike.
    Yeah, right. Remember all those Litespeeds with octagonal tubing and whatnot? This is the same dog and pony show. For tubes that see stresses from a variety of different directions (i.e. bending AND torsion), you can't beat a round tube. Square-section tubing has been available for bicycle usage for what, fifty years? I hardly think Litespeed has been the first to try to give it a twist.

    Not that I'm saying it is a bad frame, not at all. Just that the "helix" thing isn't going to make it a better frame than it would've been with an appropriately spec'ed round tube.

  27. #27
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    I did some geology mapping around the edges of the Shenandoah Ntnl park. the fire roads marked on the map were slightly easier to traverse than just bushwhacking, but only slightly. Nothing like the fireroads out here in socal.

  28. #28
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    Yeah, right. Remember all those Litespeeds with octagonal tubing and whatnot? This is the same dog and pony show. For tubes that see stresses from a variety of different directions (i.e. bending AND torsion), you can't beat a round tube. Square-section tubing has been available for bicycle usage for what, fifty years? I hardly think Litespeed has been the first to try to give it a twist.

    Not that I'm saying it is a bad frame, not at all. Just that the "helix" thing isn't going to make it a better frame than it would've been with an appropriately spec'ed round tube.
    Your logic is sound, although Lynskey, unsurprisingly, swears by their technology. I've read some reviews (might be biased by company kicks or favoritism of course) hailing the Helix as the savior of the 'Noodly Ti'. (Many owners swear there's no flex, but either they deceive themselves or they have noodles for legs...Or they tubeset is very burly).

    I guess the proof is in the pudding. Got to ride one.

    Has any one got something to contribute, based on their experience, on the Helix?

  29. #29
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    Cranks

    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    well...everything from your perspective is IMO

    i disagree anyway. especially with a supposed 100mm fork, which will of course physically sag more than a 80mm such that a smidgen higher static bottom bracket for longer fork makes sense since when "on the trail"/sagged, where it matters, it will yield about the same relative bottom bracket height.

    Further, 12.5" is a perfect BB height for lots of folks...some people actually have rocks and sh!t where yes, even on a hardtail too low of a BB is not my favorite thing. Nevertheless, a static 12.5" sound great to me for a non custom configuration where it can be generalized nicely
    $hit for brains is correct (for once). Also for those who like 180mm cranks

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    ha...i asked as well what fork that is, i dunno but likely somebody here does. just a repaint of an existing fork no doubt????
    Thanks Fo..........After seeing this I really can't wait to see your bike.....CF.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    465mm repainted. Belongs to their employee/racer Jamey.

    P.s: in the video the frame doesn't look that hot. Might be the prospective?
    Thanks..........CF.

  32. #32
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    Love mine!

    SS.jpg


    I weigh 225 and feel very little flex in this frame compared to others. and believe me - i don't have noodles for legs!

  33. #33
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    I weigh 225 and feel very little flex in this frame compared to others. and believe me - i don't have noodles for legs!

    Sweet
    I'll build myself one and try it out. (2010). Probably black accent, though with a Niner fork (Love your Noir. My favorite crankset. Wished it came it in 180mm)

  34. #34
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    New geometry means what for us rigid fork folk?

    They say the geometry has changed this year for use of a 100mm fork. They also say it is not for the faint of heart when it comes to handling. My brand new NINER carbon fork that I bought just for this frame when I have the money is going to make the head tube angle even steeper. That is not what I want. Do I have to go custom geometry for way more money or just go with another brand of titanium bike that will work with my fork?

  35. #35
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    With a 100mm fork, the handling can't be that quick...not with a 71 degree HA, right? Why not just sell the fork and get a 100mm fork? Of course, custom Ti would be sweet.

  36. #36
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    I have no need for suspension where I ride my ss. I like grabing it and all i have to do is check tire presure and i'm off. I will have an over engineered, over priced and over complicated fs with + & - air presure on every thing not to mention the rebound, compresion, lockout, floodgate. I'm sure i forgot at least five other things to check on most bikes out there have today soon enough. I love the purity of my ss. I think I will stick to steel for a little longer. It's just the sight of titanium makes me loose control of all logic.

  37. #37
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    They say the geometry has changed this year for use of a 100mm fork. They also say it is not for the faint of heart when it comes to handling. My brand new NINER carbon fork that I bought just for this frame when I have the money is going to make the head tube angle even steeper. That is not what I want. Do I have to go custom geometry for way more money or just go with another brand of titanium bike that will work with my fork?
    I had the same consideration. Your Niner fork should work perfectly. They have slacked the head tube angle this year and 80mm will get it back to were it was. I don't have the numbers to calculate the new angle, but I guess it will be similar to Niner One.

  38. #38
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    I love you man. I didnt think about it that much. I was depressed that they changed my bike. I will continue on course to achive world domination as planned. I hope to have mine by new year.

  39. #39
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    Yep.....

    (old pic - now new and improved with non-drive side bracing at the CS/SS and new type sliders)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29-dscn0166v3.jpg  


  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbbyyou
    I weigh 225 and feel very little flex in this frame compared to others. and believe me - i don't have noodles for legs!
    MBY, what do you include in the "others" category? I would like a real world comparison to an IF Ti deluxe 29er, Mooto-X, BS Highlight, which I think of as the top end Ti frames on the market. There are not many Ti frames in Lynskey's price range that are not simply either sourced from Lynskey or far far away.

    IF and BS would obviously spec the tubes based on your weight. But if this sub $2000 frame (and let's be honest, it will be sub $1700 with their perpetual sales) truly performs better than the custom, highest end Ti 29ers, now that would be impressive.

  41. #41
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    @Endure26

    What finish do you have on your frame? Is that the Industrial Mill?

  42. #42
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    It's the brushed finish. Hard to see but it also has etched flames on the ht, so the ht appears to be raw in the pic. I had some issues with the non-drive side slider. Sent it back to Lynskey and they added a brace and new sliders. No more problems (I hope). Appears they are now doing this with other frames. I also race cyclocross on a Lynskey ProCross that I picked up at the end of Summer. I've really been liking that one a bunch this season and haven't had a lot of time on the mtb since September.

  43. #43
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    It's the brushed finish. Hard to see but it also has etched flames on the ht, so the ht appears to be raw in the pic. I had some issues with the non-drive side slider. Sent it back to Lynskey and they added a brace and new sliders. No more problems (I hope). Appears they are now doing this with other frames. I also race cyclocross on a Lynskey ProCross that I picked up at the end of Summer. I've really been liking that one a bunch this season and haven't had a lot of time on the mtb since September.
    Thanks...

    Any one has pictures of their Industrial Mill finish?
    Any thoughts on their post seat? They are offering me a discounted price. My other alternative is Syntace P6 Carbon,

    I've ordered from them the Pro 29 2010 and I debate the finish. Either Industrial Mill or hand brush. Also, still wavering between black and white decals (their new design is very bold). Right now I'm leaning toward brush with white (the white would blend as oppose to the black that would stand out).

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    Thanks...

    Any one has pictures of their Industrial Mill finish?
    Any thoughts on their post seat? They are offering me a discounted price. My other alternative is Syntace P6 Carbon,

    I've ordered from them the Pro 29 2010 and I debate the finish. Either Industrial Mill or hand brush. Also, still wavering between black and white decals (their new design is very bold). Right now I'm leaning toward brush with white (the white would blend as oppose to the black that would stand out).
    I went with the brushed finish on my M230 b/c it's more durable- marks don't show up as easily and small scratches can be buffed out with a scotch brite pad. White decals.

    I haven't ridden the Lynskey seatpost, but I've heard good things about it. It might be a future purchase for me.
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  45. #45
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    My matt satin finish on a 2010 Ridgeline with white decals. I had a Moots with a "industrial mill" which is VERY nice.
    I have had no problems with this finish though and it seems quite durable and a little different.


  46. #46
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    The white decals are a nice complement to the mat satin finish

    Just wonder if the hand brush is worth the extra $$ (as opposed to the Industrial Mill)

  47. #47
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    I bet...

    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    Thanks...

    Any one has pictures of their Industrial Mill finish?
    Any thoughts on their post seat? They are offering me a discounted price. My other alternative is Syntace P6 Carbon,

    I've ordered from them the Pro 29 2010 and I debate the finish. Either Industrial Mill or hand brush. Also, still wavering between black and white decals (their new design is very bold). Right now I'm leaning toward brush with white (the white would blend as oppose to the black that would stand out).
    if you called them and asked nicely, they would upgrade the finish to the brushed finish for no charge. They did mine for free just to give me the final nudge to buy it. Just a thought.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    Thanks...

    Any one has pictures of their Industrial Mill finish?
    Any thoughts on their post seat? They are offering me a discounted price. My other alternative is Syntace P6 Carbon,

    I've ordered from them the Pro 29 2010 and I debate the finish. Either Industrial Mill or hand brush. Also, still wavering between black and white decals (their new design is very bold). Right now I'm leaning toward brush with white (the white would blend as oppose to the black that would stand out).
    carbon is lame, seriously, ESPECIALLY on a Ti frame...the lynskey post is rad. my new lynskey frame unfortunately is not yielding the seattube size to accomodate their post so i have no choice but if i did i would certainly go Lynskey.

    not sure about the finish...its subjective. i am gnarcore so i went with Mill cuz thats how i roll but to each their own

  49. #49
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    what size?

    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    carbon is lame...the lynskey post is rad. my new lynskey frame unfortunately is not yielding the seattube size to accomodate their post so i have no choice but if i did i would certainly go Lynskey.

    not sure about the finish...its subjective. i am gnarcore so i went with Mill cuz thats how i roll but to each their own
    I know the Foskey is a custom build but did you get them to use different ID tubing than normal? What's the projected delivery date on the Foskey? Can't wait to see this thing.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    Thanks...

    Any thoughts on their post seat? They are offering me a discounted price. My other alternative is Syntace P6 Carbon,
    Bling.

    Seriously, I have only ever broken a $12 Kalloy seatpost. Allegedly it might offer a modicum of comfort, but I think that this is mostly placebo. If you like it and have the money, it is very nice. If you don't, then just about any seatpost will do the job.

    I too was offered a decent price on one with my roadie, but for a road bike fit is so much more involved that it would be unwise to get the setpost before I knew if I wanted a zero offset job. I ended up just getting a Thomson and keeping my $150. Sure, it is light, strong, pretty and all that, but all together not great value.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruso414
    I know the Foskey is a custom build but did you get them to use different ID tubing than normal? What's the projected delivery date on the Foskey? Can't wait to see this thing.
    i cant wait either...keep in mind due to my OCD I only "finalized' the drawing about 1.5 to 2 weeks ago...LOL. I kept changing things of course - poor Lynskey

    as for seattube, will require a 30.0mm post. when you e-shred and regularly do 20' to flat e-drops you gotta add some more material to the tubes

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    as for seattube, will require a 30.0mm post. when you e-shred and regularly do 20' to flat e-drops you gotta add some more material to the tubes
    That would be smaller than stock? Your e-cred just went down!

  53. #53
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    noooooooooooo you got it all wrong.

    Quote Originally Posted by None
    That would be smaller than stock? Your e-cred just went down!
    he "thickened" the tubes so that makes his "manly e-cred" go up.

  54. #54
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    size

    I,m thinking about the pro 29. Size seem to be my big concern. I'm 5'11" & ride a large spot brand 26 and it fits me well. The medium pro has the same tt length, but a 16.5 seat tube c to t. the guys at lynskey told me thats why the make a 410mm post and also the have a 6' guy racing a med frame who loves it Any sizing advice?

  55. #55
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruso414
    he "thickened" the tubes so that makes his "manly e-cred" go up.
    thank you for correcting None in my absence. He is as you say, entirely wrong...with my skillz Lynskey had no choice but to thicken the seattube wall thickness and narrowing the inside diameter accordingly, no biggie to me since when i do my cow hucks i am not seated anyway so seatpost diameter is a moot point. While bummed i couldnt go with Lynskey post, I retained the cred by going with a full ensemble of Chromag, to include the post.

  56. #56
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    Good job! Lynskey

    Canít get these frames out of my head. They look fantastic and just what I have been looking for. Reasonable price, great geo and specked with a 100mm fork!

    Wifey keeps burning through my cash so it may have to wait until next year...........

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeZee
    Canít get these frames out of my head. They look fantastic and just what I have been looking for. Reasonable price, great geo and specked with a 100mm fork!

    Wifey keeps burning through my cash so it may have to wait until next year...........
    good idea...order your custom DeeZeeSkey right now and it wont be ready until next year - problem solved. You are welcome now HTFU and ignore the wife!

    p.s. please don't mention to my wife I told you to ignore yours

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    thank you for correcting None in my absence. He is as you say, entirely wrong....
    Fo's bike only exists ostensibly. So much so that mine has actually been in the bush, showing that real diameter matters MORE than Fo-wall thickness!

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruso414
    if you called them and asked nicely, they would upgrade the finish to the brushed finish for no charge. They did mine for free just to give me the final nudge to buy it. Just a thought.
    Thanks...Called them and got a free upgrade from the Industrial Mill to Bursh. Good call; just saved me $150...

    Not sure about their seatpost. I read some reviews that lambasted are rather unenthusiastic about their clamping mechanism; they also didn't like the 60mm spacing for saddle adjustments - too narrow for aft and fore. Also, reportedly they flex, if only a bit.

  60. #60
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    Damn that Fo! He's put bad ideas into my head too...

    I am not nearly as gnar-core as Fo, so the stock frame is fine, and I can probably play the shop employee card (I'm sure it would work better than dropping Fo's name) to get a good deal, but I don't need another frame (unless someone wants to take my brand new geared 853 tubed frame [Niner] off my hands for a decent price).

  61. #61
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    "a true high-performance 29er that was not a do-all bike"

    "a true high-performance 29er that was not a do-all bike"

    Then why not weld the darn dropouts in place, and make a dedicated SS?
    Stiffer is better IMO. Ti dropouts don't need to be replaceable anyway.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2TurnersNotEnough
    I am not nearly as gnar-core as Fo
    I agree with 2Turnhairs

    as for the frame....hell yeah, the 2010 is very rad i agree! as for name dropping, good call...i had to pay twice retail when he learned who i was

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvi
    Ti dropouts don't need to be replaceable anyway.
    After I saw some nice steel dropouts ripped off, all (geared) dropouts need to be replaceable.
    On-One Lurcher SS
    Speedway Cycles Fatback Ti SS
    1984 Trek 560
    http://slipangles.blogspot.com/ - It's supposed to be fun

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by b2b2
    I,m thinking about the pro 29. Size seem to be my big concern. I'm 5'11" & ride a large spot brand 26 and it fits me well. The medium pro has the same tt length, but a 16.5 seat tube c to t. the guys at lynskey told me thats why the make a 410mm post and also the have a 6' guy racing a med frame who loves it Any sizing advice?
    5'11" w/32" inseam here riding a Medium 2009 Houseblend Pro29, size is right on. Using the Lynskey 410mm seatpost with 230mm exposed. Large would have me with a very short negative angle (handlebar) stem.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by b2b2
    I,m thinking about the pro 29. Size seem to be my big concern. I'm 5'11" & ride a large spot brand 26 and it fits me well. The medium pro has the same tt length, but a 16.5 seat tube c to t. the guys at lynskey told me thats why the make a 410mm post and also the have a 6' guy racing a med frame who loves it Any sizing advice?

    FWIW - I am 5' 11" also and I ride Large Spot 29er, I went with a Large ridgeline only after alot of going back and forth between Med and Lg to many times to count. I can say after riding my new 2010 Ridgeline. I am glad I went with the large. I am using all the same seat, seat tube, stem, handel bar on both bikes. all of my measurments worked out perfect. I love the new bike, best way to sum it up "Ti is magic" the ride blows away carbon fiber, by a lot.

  66. #66
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    One Speed.....What fork did you finally decide on for your ride? Did you get the Niner Carbon fork?

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbbyyou
    SS.jpg


    I weigh 225 and feel very little flex in this frame compared to others. and believe me - i don't have noodles for legs!
    OH MY GOD. beautiful
    Req. Disclaimer: I sell Giant, Trek, and Electra bikes.
    Quote Originally Posted by ErrantGorgon
    The no-brainer store called, they want their question back.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by endure26
    Yep.....

    (old pic - now new and improved with non-drive side bracing at the CS/SS and new type sliders)
    If you don't mind me asking, what were you charged for the brake brace?

  69. #69
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    Post pics. Nice.
    Last edited by rydbyk; 11-19-2009 at 10:23 PM.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onetrack
    One Speed.....What fork did you finally decide on for your ride? Did you get the Nine Carbon fork?

    After seeing what the mill finish looks like close up, I thing I am going with the Nude carbon finish fork from Niner. Right now I put on a new 09 Reba, I must say this version of the Reba is much stiffer than the older versions of the fork.

  71. #71
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    thanks

    thanks, I was leaning tword the medium frame but its hard to imagine me on a 16.5 frame. The great thing about lynskey though is they guarentee the bike will fit.

  72. #72
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    thanks, I was leaning tword the medium frame but its hard to imagine me on a 16.5 frame. The great thing about lynskey though is they guarentee the bike will fit.
    Just so to make sure nothing goes awry; Lynskey guarantees fitting only for their custom frames. For stock, you have 15 days to return for %20 restocking fee (ooch...).

    If you experiment with sizes, make sure to get their commitment to exchange frames without restocking fee (expect to pay for shipping, though).

  73. #73
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    ... and if we just ...

    I have decals on my Pro29. They seem to wear off pretty quickly. I do like power washers though. My Pro Cross has the Lynskey name etched into the downtube like the ht flames on my Pro29. IMO that's the way to go. I can power wash the cross bike without worrying about taking off stickers. Very subtle look too.

  74. #74
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    I have decals on my Pro29. They seem to wear off pretty quickly. I do like power washers though. My Pro Cross has the Lynskey name etched into the downtube like the ht flames on my Pro29. IMO that's the way to go. I can power wash the cross bike without worrying about taking off stickers. Very subtle look too.
    Thanks for sharing. That's useful to know. My concern about the etching is two fold:
    1) The main reason I go with hand brush is that the finish can be resorted with a scotch bright. The awesome look is a nice corollary, though. When the etching is scratched (bound to happened on an MTB), there is no easy way to bring them back to their old beauty.
    2) The cost ($225) is a bit hefty for what you get. I mean, I do have the dinaros, but I feel a bit foolish to spend it for sake of appearance solely.

    I think I may take off the decals and let the beauty shine naked...

  75. #75
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    I got the flames and the dt logos at no cost - basically talked with Jack at Lynskey and he threw it in. I had the opportunity to add the etched logos to the 29er when I had the dropouts fixed and brace added. I wasn't willing to pay $150 for their logos and kept the stickies. The brushed finish is great. I've used it on most ti bikes I've owned and all it takes is a Scotch pad and new decals to bring it back to like new.

  76. #76
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    I love the new bike, best way to sum it up "Ti is magic" the ride blows away carbon fiber, by a lot.
    How would you compare power transfer? I am concern of a hint of flex in the BB area for Ti. Carbon supposed to be entirely stiff.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    How would you compare power transfer? I am concern of a hint of flex in the BB area for Ti. Carbon supposed to be entirely stiff.

    The Carbon 29er I demo tested was the top of the line Felt with the same wheelset I have on my ridgeline (cross Max) lets say power xfer on that bike is a 10 of 10 because it had close to no flex in the BB at all. (one of the main things I was looking at during the demo)

    For reference, I also have a steel Spot 29er which is reasonably stiff (for a steel bike) in the BB area lets say that bike is a 6 - 7 of 10 using the same scale.

    Now for the ridgeline, I would give it about a 8.5 - 9 of 10, which is great for Ti. I have had 2 other Ti bikes in the past and can say they were on the lines with steel for BB flex.

    but of course there is more to a ride than BB flex, and that is where Ti shines over carbon.

  78. #78
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    What is the rear tyre clearance like on the new Pro 29 & Ridgeline?

  79. #79
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    What is the rear tyre clearance like on the new Pro 29 & Ridgeline?
    The claim 2.3". I don't think any one has the Pro29 2010 yet, so there's no first hand experience. Note: the slider option on the Ridgeline should give you more latitude in terms of tire width.

  80. #80
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    Thanks Climber999, is this info on their website? I was hoping to have the option of running a 2.4 Racing Ralph on the back for that extra bit of cush.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dugs
    Thanks Climber999, is this info on their website? I was hoping to have the option of running a 2.4 Racing Ralph on the back for that extra bit of cush.
    I spoke with Jack of Lynskey. That's the information he has provided me with. Looking at their on-line clip, I think RR 2.4 will no fit.

  82. #82
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    I also asked a few monhs ago for the RR2.4 fit and did not get a definitive answer. But at the time, they did mention that they were redesigning both bikes, hopefully with more clearance.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by flafonta
    I also asked a few monhs ago for the RR2.4 fit and did not get a definitive answer. But at the time, they did mention that they were redesigning both bikes, hopefully with more clearance.
    First it's worthy to mention that tires are only part of the equation. Rims have a lot to do with actual tire width. For example, the same tire on Flow will have a different footprint than on Arch.

    That said, I don't think the rear triangle was changed between the years. They added a brace on the brake side to eliminate potential chatter and beefed up the welds with the slider to eschew issues they had in past in this section. I think that's about it. Most of the re-design was done to the front end.

    For each his own, but I prefer moderate width tires at the rear. They roll better and as for cush, I stand too often to care (SS...). The front, though I prefer a wide, voluminous tire. 2.25-2.35 works well for me.

  84. #84
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    Got mine today...

    Just received it and wanted to share with you guys.

    The frame is beautiful. The welds seem well crafted and the finish is splendid.
    I have not ridden it yet, so I will reserve judgment on the matter. You’ll hear from me.

    Two immediate points worthy to mention that are not deal breaker, but deserve Lynskey's attention:

    1)
    This has been related before in various threads:
    The bolts on the sliders are too short and don’t seem sufficiently secured. When screwed, they are not flushed with the plate. I will swap them with longer bolts; I think Lynskey should do the same.

    2)
    The location of the derailleur cables stops is not optimal. To stay away muck and mud and be lest exposed to projecting objects, the cables should be on the top tube, seat tube and seat stay. Personally, I do not care; I run SS, and if I ever switch to gears, I would use a sealed system like Nokon to prevent cable contamination. However, I’m sure other people that run gears would appreciate a more discerning arrangement for the stops.

    Finally, a cosmetic suggestion to Lynskey (as all know, decals means nothing to ride quality, frame longevity or maintenance, so everything below is of no true consequence):
    The helix tubes by themselves are appealing and harmonious in shape; quite stunning in fact. The decals on the DT and TT breaks off the congruity and make the frame appear a bit awkward. I intend to remove them; I think a clean look will let the frame's natural beauty stand out. If I were Lynskey, I would consider decals on the flat part on the DT, not far from the joint with the TT/HT. It is a small area, but with some creativity it can be decked out with the brand and product name, while still letting the tubes flow uninterrupted. As a designer I would also complement the seat tube with some artwork. Not really important, as I stated.

    I'm stocked....

    Cheers!!

    New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29-box.jpg
    New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29-box-open-2-.jpg
    New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29-frame-side1-.jpg
    New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29-frame-side-2-.jpg
    (The 'Lynskey' is etched)
    New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29-stem-2.jpg
    Last edited by Climber999; 12-02-2009 at 04:08 PM.

  85. #85
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    beautiful frame! congrats...

    as for #2, suppose thats just subjective and they gotta pick one way to do it for non custom frames and no matter what, >=1 person wont find it optimal for their needs.

    re: #3, to me it seems like a positive when you are needing to resort to complain about stickers



    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    1)
    This has been related before on in various threads:
    The bolts on the sliders are too short and donít seem sufficiently secured. When screwed, they should be flushed with the plate. I will swap them with longer bolts; I think Lynskey should do the same.

    2)
    The location of the derailleur cables stops is not optimal. To keep away muck and mud as much as possible, they should be on the top tube, seat tube and seat stay. Personally, I do not care; I run SS, and if I ever switch to gears, I would use a sealed system like Nokon to prevent cable contamination. However, Iím sure other people that run gears would appreciate a more discerning arrangement for the stops.

    Finally, a cosmetic suggestion to Lynskey (as all know, decals means nothing to ride quality, frame longevity or maintenance, so everything below is of no true consequence):
    The helix tubes by themselves are appealing and harmonious in shape. The decals on the DT and TT brake the congruity and make the frame appear a bit awkward. I intend to remove them; I think a clean look will let the natural beauty of the frame stand out. If I were Lynskey, I would consider decals on the flat part on the DT, not far from the joint with the TT/HT. It is a small area, but with some creativity it can be decorated with the brand and product name, while still letting the tubes flow uninterrupted. They can also complement that area with an artwork on the seat tube.

    Cheers!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    beautiful frame! congrats...

    as for #2, suppose thats just subjective and they gotta pick one way to do it for non custom frames and no matter what, >=1 person wont find it optimal for their needs.

    re: #3, to me it seems like a positive when you are needing to resort to complain about stickers
    Thanks Fo, I L-O-V-E the frame. I just like to improve things just a little tiny bit..

    #3 is truly none-sense. I just think the decal arrangement can let the helix shine. Not important...not at all.

    #2, I beg to differ. Look at GF HD, check out Niner, take a peek at Moots (I can go on...) All of them avoid cables stop close to the ground. Cable stops on DT/CS are for road rigs; stops on TT/ST/SS are for cyclocross/MTB. Again, as a designer you want to keep a distance from muck and projecting objects. If you use a sealed cable system (e.g., Nokon) you will be fine with muck on the Pro29, but you are still vulnerable to projecting objects, which may damage your cables.

    Anyways, this is not something that will make me not purchase the bike.

    I know you do custom with Lynskey. If my logic makes sense to you, consider having them weld the stops on the TT/ST/SS.

  87. #87
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    thats a work of art, nice....

  88. #88
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    I have no strong opinion on #2...just noting that there is no way everybody is going to agree unanimously. i didnt even bother looking closely to be honest...is it the rear der stops along the downtube i assume you dont like?

    I already have my drawing done...i have "cradles" strategically placed along the mid/top of the downtube, but that is for a specific drivetrain setup i have - i also only like full housing for shifting so i also care less about muck considerations accordingly. my rear cables/crades do run along under the tt and seatstays

    as for stickers, i passed on those altogether - i opted for blasting
    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    #2, I beg to differ. Look at GF HD, check out Niner, take a peek at Moots (I can go on...) All of them avoid cables stop close to the ground. Cable stops on DT/CS are for road rigs; stops on TT/ST/SS are for cyclocross/MTB. Again, as a designer you want to keep a distance from muck and projecting objects. If you use a sealed cable system (e.g., Nokon) you will be fine with muck on the Pro29, but you are still vulnerable to projecting objects, which may damage your cables.

    Anyways, this is not something that will make me not purchase the bike.

    I know you do custom with Lynskey. If my logic makes sense to you, consider having them weld the stops on the TT/ST/SS.

  89. #89
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    Your setup is sound.

    Yes, I'd rather have the rear der stop the way you got them: TT/SS. The front der for me should be TT/ST. I also normally go with sealed cables. Nevertheless, I don't like my cables running next to the ground. Rocks, branches and other objects may take their tool...

    No matter, as I said this frame, by appearance and finish quality, outstanding. Some disagree, but I like Lynskey's 'pushing the envelope' approach with the Helix.

    Well, the proof is in pudding; I'll form a concert opinion once I ride it. My only fear is a flexy rear or a BB...

  90. #90
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    I like! ( Just as well, I ordered mine last week)

    I assume that is a large in hand brushed finish?

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dugs
    I like! ( Just as well, I ordered mine last week)

    I assume that is a large in hand brushed finish?
    Ya, right on the money; large with hand brushed finish. I've not seen the industrial mill, but this finish hit it right. Appealing in look and very easy to maintain.

    I would recommend forgoing the declas on the TT/DT and have them enclose them in the box if you ever want to attach them. IMO, they don't look right on the helix shaped tubes.

  92. #92
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    I am going for the industrial mill with black decals but intend to strip them off as soon as.

    Hurry up and get that frame built, I'm looking forward to the end result

  93. #93
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    Congrats Climber999,

    I love the brushed finish on your bike. I agree with your opinion on the decals. However, I really like the way the down tube decal looks on the left or no drive side. The blocks trail off with the Helix bend but on the right side the lettering trails off and looks a little awkward. This decal would look better if it was flipped or reversed on the right side. A specific left and right side decal would be the fix. None the less, this is a minor complaint and one that won't bother me at all.

    I just got back from Lynskey HQ where I picked up my new 2010 Custom Pro 29. My bike was modeled off of the current Pro 29 geometry in a size Large. The main custom order differences were longer 18" rear stays, 73mm BB shell, vertical drops for gears, rear fender fasteners, under the TT cable routing, larger diameter TT and chain stays.

    I went by a friends house this afternoon and pressed in the head set cups. We also checked measurements and tube diameters. All measurements were spot-on and rear tire clearance looks like it will accommodate 2.3 tires. I guess I'll be spending the evening in my basement bike laboratory building-up this thing. Hope it all goes as planned.




  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schultz29
    Congrats Climber999,

    I love the brushed finish on your bike. I agree with your opinion on the decals. However, I really like the way the down tube decal looks on the left or no drive side. The blocks trail off with the Helix bend but on the right side the lettering trails off and looks a little awkward. This decal would look better if it was flipped or reversed on the right side. A specific left and right side decal would be the fix. None the less, this is a minor complaint and one that won't bother me at all.

    I just got back from Lynskey HQ where I picked up my new 2010 Custom Pro 29. My bike was modeled off of the current Pro 29 geometry in a size Large. The main custom order differences were longer 18" rear stays, 73mm BB shell, vertical drops for gears, rear fender fasteners, under the TT cable routing, larger diameter TT and chain stays.

    I went by a friends house this afternoon and pressed in the head set cups. We also checked measurements and tube diameters. All measurements were spot-on and rear tire clearance looks like it will accommodate 2.3 tires. I guess I'll be spending the evening in my basement bike laboratory building-up this thing. Hope it all goes as planned.



    Very nice!!

    I see you go a different 'Pro 29' decal..

    Better arrangement for the cable stops than the standard frame.
    Why did you go with larger diameter chain stays? Did you find them too flex?

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    Why did you go with larger diameter chain stays? Did you find them too flex?
    Unfortunately for me, I exceed the weight requirements for most off the shelf bike frames. The larger stays are an attempt to keep the bike as stiff as possible.
    Last edited by Schultz29; 12-02-2009 at 07:01 PM.

  96. #96
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    So does this mean.....

    Quote Originally Posted by Schultz29
    Congrats Climber999,

    I love the brushed finish on your bike. I agree with your opinion on the decals. However, I really like the way the down tube decal looks on the left or no drive side. The blocks trail off with the Helix bend but on the right side the lettering trails off and looks a little awkward. This decal would look better if it was flipped or reversed on the right side. A specific left and right side decal would be the fix. None the less, this is a minor complaint and one that won't bother me at all.

    I just got back from Lynskey HQ where I picked up my new 2010 Custom Pro 29. My bike was modeled off of the current Pro 29 geometry in a size Large. The main custom order differences were longer 18" rear stays, 73mm BB shell, vertical drops for gears, rear fender fasteners, under the TT cable routing, larger diameter TT and chain stays.

    I went by a friends house this afternoon and pressed in the head set cups. We also checked measurements and tube diameters. All measurements were spot-on and rear tire clearance looks like it will accommodate 2.3 tires. I guess I'll be spending the evening in my basement bike laboratory building-up this thing. Hope it all goes as planned.


    that you are coming over to ride this weekend?

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruso414
    that you are coming over to ride this weekend?
    Well, I'm riding somewhere. Last night on our local urban ride, the talk was heading over to PInhoti to pre-ride the Snake Creek Gap TT course. Pisgah would be sweet as well. I've driven the reroute through Hot Springs and it's barely any longer. By the way, have you ridden any of the trails around Hot Springs? Looks like some epic remote stuff over there.

  98. #98
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    1)
    This has been related before in various threads:
    The bolts on the sliders are too short and don’t seem sufficiently secured. When screwed, they are not flushed with the plate. I will swap them with longer bolts; I think Lynskey should do the same.
    oh yeah...with respect to #1, should add that:

    in general, thread engagement to get 100% of strength of bolt or nut is 1 to 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt (e.g., a .25" nut for a .25" bolt is about .25" thick). Of course variances include materials of fasteners...quality of threads...etc. So pretty much you engagagement is at a ratio of 1.7x diameter of bolt therefore, full strength of fastener, and notion of "flush" really has nothing to do with it.

    as for routing, while i still say you can't please everybody (builders should only serve to please me ), you certainly coulda speced custom cable routing a priori and graphics which no doubt is done pretty regularly

    regardless, SWEET frame!

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    oh yeah...with respect to #1, should add that:

    in general, thread engagement to get 100% of strength of bolt or nut is 1 to 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt (e.g., a .25" nut for a .25" bolt is about .25" thick). Of course variances include materials of fasteners...quality of threads...etc. So pretty much you engagagement is at a ratio of 1.7x diameter of bolt therefore, full strength of fastener, and notion of "flush" really has nothing to do with it.

    as for routing, while i still say you can't please everybody (builders should only serve to please me ), you certainly coulda speced custom cable routing a priori and graphics which no doubt is done pretty regularly

    regardless, SWEET frame!
    Fo,

    I probably would not be able to convince you on #1; you seem a die-hard Lynskey ignoring-the-fact-no-matter-what...For the benefit of others (an maybe, just maybe, you'd open your mind to the facts), see the attached images. The width of the plate is 7.3mm. The threaded section not bolted is anywhere between 2mm to 4mm. Or 27% to 54%, respectively. BTW, others have complained they occasionally slip. That's probably the reason.

    If you prefer the ride your bike with flimsy sliders, it's your prerogative.

    New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29-slider-1.jpg
    New,2010 Lynskey Houseblend PRO29-slider-2.jpg
    Last edited by Climber999; 12-02-2009 at 10:27 PM.

  100. #100
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    .50 stainless bolts

    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999
    Fo,

    I probably would not be able to convince you on #1; you seem a die-hard Lynskey ignoring-the-fact-no-matter-what...For the benefit of others (an maybe, just maybe, you'd open your mind to the facts), see the attached images. The width of the plate is 7.3mm. The threaded section not bolted is anywhere between 2mm to 4mm. Or 27% to 54%, respectively. BTW, others have complained they occasionally slip. That's probably the reason.

    If you prefer the ride your bike with flimsy sliders, it's your prerogative.
    fix this problem wonderfully.

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