Long Term Storage
Leaving the country for an indefinite period of time. Storing the bike indoors. Looking for some tips for storage of the bike for maybe 2 years. So far I have found info for the following:
- Remove wheels so the tires don't get flat spots from sitting
- Lube chain and shifter cables
- Remove seatpost from frame so they don't get stuck together
- Lube pivot points on derailieurs
Going to keep the bike in a bike box so everything is kept together in a compact package and nothing is lost. Going to put a block between fork so it keeps it's shape while no wheel is in it.
My questions really are:
- What do I do about long term storage of the fork? I am thinking to smear some lube from a fox shock rebuild kit on the seals. As mentioned I'm also putting a block in the fork as well to keep the shape just incase something hits it. The fork is a fox f100.
- Do I need to do anything to prepare a hydraulic brake system for storage?
Not to be a wise guy but why don't you sell it and buy something new in 2 years. The bike will depreciate in those 2 years and you will probably want something new then as well. And if anything goes bad, seals etc.. you'll have that expense to deal with. If it is a special frame keep it and sell off the fork, brakes and tires. Probably could use those funds while you are on the lam anyway. Just kidding... Anyway my find is that the fork will probably be fine (lube seals as you suggested) but the brakes will most likely need bleeding and fresh oil at a minimum and new seals at the worst case. Tires may dry rot depending on type and storage conditions, but I would guess they will be fine.
I was going to do this but I honestly could not replace this bike for what I would sell it for. People want a million dollars for their beaten machines. I surely couldn't find one new for as cheap as I bought it. I got it as a previous year demo bike and got a DEAL on it.
Originally Posted by jfkbike2
As long as it's stored in a dry, protected environment you'll be fine. Just make sure air can circulate around the bike so rust doesn't form.
If you want to go nuts (you're almost there already!), you could remove the sanctions from the fork, remove the seals, and store them in a ziploc baggy with a little vaseline on them. Then nothing could dry out.
If it was mine I'd write off the tires as a potential loss, spray the whole bike with a light coat of WD40, stick it in the garage, and walk away. If you're lucky you'll still have a few pounds of pressure in the tires in a couple years and you won't have flat spots on the tires.
Hose off the WD40 in a couple years, and go ride.
You have no excuse for driving to work
(unless you don't have studded tires)
(no excuse for that either)
I would clean everything completely, grease the seals to keep them from drying out, and put a light coat of oil on anything that might rust. Excess lube or grease can dry out and turn gummy in 2 years. I would keep WD-40 away from cables, derailleurs, and shifters for that reason. It gets really nasty when it dries in areas where it can't be wiped off easily. I would want to leave it clean, then re-lube when I get it out of storage.
If you store the bike upright, or with the brake calipers below the levers, you should avoid problems with air bubbles moving into the calipers. Removing the wheels is good, but the tires and tubes can degrade in a few years, especially if you're in a dry place. If you're due for a replacement, you might just plan on buying new rubbery bits when you get back.
Salt Lake City
2012 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 29
2006 Specialized Allez Expert Double
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