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 Originally Posted by NUTT
This one is a 2008 Shimano Alivio RD-M410.
I'm pretty sure it is old & crappy enough that it is 7/8 speed only. At least that is what the Shimano website says.
And honestly, it is garbage. If I could find a new or take-off SRAM X7 or X9 rear shifter & derailleur set for $50 or so I'll be much happier.
Hmm. 9 speed cassettes are slightly wider than 8 speed (maybe 1mm) so maybe that's the difference. I can definitely understand wanting something better than an Alivio
I may add some unsolicited advice: if it were my beater bike I would go with a cheaper, simpler and lower maintenance friction-shifting setup. In fact, that's exactly what I ran on my main mountain bike for quite a while. One of these shifters, single ring up front, and 5 cogs out back with some extra spacers in between each one to make the friction shifting easy. I disassembled a normal 8 or 9 speed cassette and took out every other cog within the range I wanted. The only tuning you ever have to do is set the high and low limit. No messing with indexing or anything.
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Mythical Creature
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 Originally Posted by 4x4runner
...running SS without a tensioner so this gives me a starting point to figure out the "magic ratio" so to speak. any pictures of the chain side?
Nope - and that photo is deceiving, as I do run a tensioner - just in "push up" mode to keep more rear cog chain wrap. FWIW I'm not so happy with it - it's a Surly version, but a number of them are pretty much the same. The light-duty derailleur spring(s) are not really strong enough to "push" hard enough, IMO - so I put a zip-tie around the the tensioner pulley-wheel axle and the chainstay, just a little snug - not tight. Works like a charm, and I always carry a few extras!
The Rennen Rolleger (?) looks like one of the better set-ups - but hangs down like a derailleur, but allows mid-ride gear changes without fussing with the chain length, as it can take some slack, I think it's capable of running a double chainring in the front, in fact - and takes the slack between "high and low" gears - so it can easily tension a SS set-up really well.
I have to say, I'm surprised how few EBB equipped rides there are out there; like the Specialized Stumpy HT SS frameset - that can also be set up geared. When I finally buy a SS frame, it must be capable of gears, as I do long rides at times that need big / multiple gears, and detest sliding rear dropouts, and steel frames - and can't afford the Niner Air 9 Carbon - though I'd sure like one. If they only made a scandium version...
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"It's better to regret something you HAVE done, than something you haven't..." -
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Waiting for Godot
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i run one half link and it gets close to a magic ratio, but have yet to find one that works without too much slack. running a tensioner.
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mtbr member
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rigid...
geared for now, will probably be SS soon. haven't decided if i'm gonna eventually go with a fork or not. i dunno anything really this build is just more of an experiment than anything else.
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Mythical Creature
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"Magic" ratio / chain length
Well, after tinkering with my tensioner - it looked like my current gearing of choice - 34t x 18t, was close to "perfect" with the use of a 1/2 link. I pulled a full link / pair, installed the 1/2 link - and presto - perfect chain tension on my SRAM 8 spd. chain with a few hundred miles on it. Drivetrain details are FSA compact road crank with a single-speed specific 110mm chainring and a Rennen 18t cog.
Sweet!
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Lurker
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Access 29er neighborhood beater bike project.
Updated build list as it sits right now:
Have
- Access XCL 29er frame, 21"
- Soul Cycles Dillinger fork, 100mm corrected
- Wheels - Specialized Rockhopper 29er take-offs
- Tires - Schwalbe Big Apples for this bike
- 9 speed rear derailleur & shifter, SRAM X-7, nearly new
- 9 speed cassette SRAM 950, nearly new
- F & R brake levers
- Front Avid BB5
- A few different saddles
- A few different sets of grips
- Crap plastic platforms
Need
- Bar & Stem
- Seatpost
- Single speed crank & BB (for 1x9 setup)
- 9 speed chain
- New brake cable & housing
Optional (if I can find them dirt cheap)
- Rear brake (I'll eventually upgrade my Specialized and carry the BB5 from that to this)
- Nicer headset
- Decent metal platforms, maybe Power Grips
My initial build budget target was $350. I'm currently at $262.39.
While I could make my target, I'd have to really compromise on the crank. I'm leaning towards another Truvativ Stylo 1.1 as I've had great luck with the one I have on my Specialized. I guess I have a decision to make or some hardcore searching to do.
 Originally Posted by Scotty2Hotty
You bastard.
 Originally Posted by MyMilkExpired
You bastard
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 Originally Posted by NUTT
While I could make my target, I'd have to really compromise on the crank. I'm leaning towards another Truvativ Stylo 1.1
These Shimano cranks are at least as good if not better than the Stylo. The stock middle ring will work fine for 1x9, and you can upgrade later to a real SS ring for $25 or so
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Lurker
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 Originally Posted by boomn
These Shimano cranks are at least as good if not better than the Stylo. The stock middle ring will work fine for 1x9, and you can upgrade later to a real SS ring for $25 or so
I'll definitely check it out. Thanks.
 Originally Posted by Scotty2Hotty
You bastard.
 Originally Posted by MyMilkExpired
You bastard
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I cant wait to get mine built up. Finally got a 23" Access on sale last weekend but I probably wont touch it for a few months since I've got a road project almost complete and a custom hardtail on the way.
I'm thinking 440mm 26" suspension corrected fork, should make for geometry very similar to a Ragley TD-1, but with slightly longer chainstays.
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Mythical Creature
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 Originally Posted by GTscoob
I cant wait to get mine built up. Finally got a 23" Access on sale last weekend but I probably wont touch it for a few months since I've got a road project almost complete and a custom hardtail on the way.
I'm thinking 440mm 26" suspension corrected fork, should make for geometry very similar to a Ragley TD-1, but with slightly longer chainstays.
Are you building a 26" bike up? I mention it as the HT angle was too steep, the BB too low, and the rear traction fairly poor on my Access 29'er with a 465 axle to crown rigid fork, but a 440mm, as you mntioned - a full inch shorter, would make a bike that was crazy twitchy with a low BB and very poor rear wheel hook-up...
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"It's better to regret something you HAVE done, than something you haven't..." -
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 Originally Posted by glenzx
Are you building a 26" bike up? I mention it as the HT angle was too steep, the BB too low, and the rear traction fairly poor on my Access 29'er with a 465 axle to crown rigid fork, but a 440mm, as you mntioned - a full inch shorter, would make a bike that was crazy twitchy with a low BB and very poor rear wheel hook-up...
I did read your post saying that, but I like my rigid bikes to handle very sharply. You mention poor climbing but are running a very low tread rear tire so thats a wash.
FWIW, that fat front tire bike from page 2 looks to be running ~440mm fork, with the fat front so the geometry should be very similar. I'd like to hear back from that poster.
The OS Blackbuck, designed around a 435mm fork, has more bottom bracket drop and steeper angles but people seem to love it. It'll be an experiment and if I hate it it'll be really easy to swap on a 465mm fork.
I had a similar setup on a rigid singlespeed Santa Cruz Chameleon, running a 420mm rigid fork on that frame and the bike handled so crisply, slightly sketchy on the downhill but worth it everywhere else. A 440mm fork would be suspension corrected for that frame so I have a little bit of an idea what I'm getting myself into.
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mtbr member
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 Originally Posted by jaycarl
very nice bike
Thanks, I have big plans for it if my wife doesn't kill me first. haha.
I'm probably going with XT derailleurs, a race face crank, stans ZTR Arch/X9 wheelset and eventually a Fox fork. I've got clipless pedals on the way.
I'm loving it the way it is now though.
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It's been about a month since I built my Access up and finally was able to get it on some trails this last weekend. So far, doesnt seem good for tight and twisty local trails (expected) but owned some more open trails south of Atlanta.
Build:
Frame: 23" Access 9r frame
Fork: Kona P2, 468mm
Headset: Cane Creek ZS3
Stem: Titec
Bars: Easton EA70
Seatpost: 27.2mm Ritchey with a shim (not pictured). Wanted a little more spring with the aluminum frame
Drivetrain: 770 XT cranks (180mm) with 780 XT rings (24/32/42), SLX 11-34 cassette
Shifters/ders: SRAM X9, with XT front derailleur
Brakes: BB7s with XT rotors (180/160)
Pedals: Forte Convert
Wheels: WTB Speeddisc AM laced to SLX hubs
Tires: Ardent 2.4 EXO up front, Ikon 3C EXO in back

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Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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 Originally Posted by GTscoob
It's been about a month since I built my Access up and finally was able to get it on some trails this last weekend. So far, doesnt seem good for tight and twisty local trails (expected) but owned some more open trails south of Atlanta.
Build:
Frame: 23" Access 9r frame
Fork: Kona P2, 468mm
Headset: Cane Creek ZS3
Stem: Titec
Bars: Easton EA70
Seatpost: 27.2mm Ritchey with a shim (not pictured). Wanted a little more spring with the aluminum frame
Drivetrain: 770 XT cranks (180mm) with 780 XT rings (24/32/42), SLX 11-34 cassette
Shifters/ders: SRAM X9, with XT front derailleur
Brakes: BB7s with XT rotors (180/160)
Pedals: Forte Convert
Wheels: WTB Speeddisc AM laced to SLX hubs
Tires: Ardent 2.4 EXO up front, Ikon 3C EXO in back
ANd how do you like the handling now that you're riding it?
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL :)
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 Originally Posted by tturbotom
The first picture is right before my first ride on my Access 29er. The 2nd picture is about 6 months later when I got a new rear wheel. The last picture is obvious, the same location, summer and winter.
The build up:
Access 29er frame (custom paint)
Reba Rock Shox fork
Shimano LX HollowTech crankset (1x9 drive)
Shimano Shadow XT rear derailleur
Shimano XT pedals
Tektro Hydraulic disc brakes
Bicycle Wheel Warehouse front wheel
Velocity/Chris King 36 spoke rear wheel
Crank Brother skewers
Dorca carbon fiber handlebar
FSA stem
FSA seat post
I stumbled onto this thread while researching a new headset.
I like your paint color! What happened to your rear wheel?
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL :)
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 Originally Posted by Natedogz
ANd how do you like the handling now that you're riding it?
Handling is super slow with the big wheels and tall fork. Bike feels like a rigid tank, really easy to get sloppy and just plow over things with the big wheels; I see why people say that their 29ers are so confidence inspiring.
The bike rocks when the trail opens up but is a handful on switchbacks and some of the tight and twisty local trails. First time I've told myself that I'm not going to bring a bike back to a certain trail system as the turns are too sharp and fast to be bothered with big wheels. My vintage Karakoram will handle those trails nicely, short top tube, short wheelbase, looooong stem, and tiny wheels.
Slow handling aside, I really like it. I still want to try the shorter fork on it to speed up the handling but was already getting pedal strikes with the standard fork so I'd have to be extra careful if I dropped the front end an inch.
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Bikes all look great. For those of you who have put a lot of miles on these, what do you think about using one of these frames to build up a bike for bikepacking? Going to be doing a few 2-4 day, 100-200 mile trips and think I'd like to build up a bike myself vice using my current bike. This a good base for that or would I be better off with steel?
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 Originally Posted by Mr Cup
Bikes all look great. For those of you who have put a lot of miles on these, what do you think about using one of these frames to build up a bike for bikepacking? Going to be doing a few 2-4 day, 100-200 mile trips and think I'd like to build up a bike myself vice using my current bike. This a good base for that or would I be better off with steel?
Worked for me... 450 miles on the Oregon coast. I'm a trailer guy...but with the right fork you could load this thing up. Long chainstays...should be good for panniers if you go that route. We didn't see much dirt (a little on a side trip), but my experience says this frame is up to the task. Might be more harsh than steel, but go big on the tires and you're good...
You have no excuse for driving to work (unless you don't have studded tires)
(no excuse for that either)
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Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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 Originally Posted by Natedogz
I like your paint color! What happened to your rear wheel?
I am prone to breaking rear hubs I figured A Chris King would last longer than 6 months
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I am building on of these for my wife. What cable routing kits did you guys use?
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 Originally Posted by GTscoob
Handling is super slow with the big wheels and tall fork. Bike feels like a rigid tank, really easy to get sloppy and just plow over things with the big wheels; I see why people say that their 29ers are so confidence inspiring.
The bike rocks when the trail opens up but is a handful on switchbacks and some of the tight and twisty local trails. First time I've told myself that I'm not going to bring a bike back to a certain trail system as the turns are too sharp and fast to be bothered with big wheels. My vintage Karakoram will handle those trails nicely, short top tube, short wheelbase, looooong stem, and tiny wheels.
Slow handling aside, I really like it. I still want to try the shorter fork on it to speed up the handling but was already getting pedal strikes with the standard fork so I'd have to be extra careful if I dropped the front end an inch.
Thanks, I didn't like it at 80mm and bottomed out travel too often where I ride. Just converted Reba to 100mm and did fluid change at same time. Quick neighborhood ride it felt great. 
 Originally Posted by tturbotom
I am prone to breaking rear hubs I figured A Chris King would last longer than 6 months
Thanks.
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL :)
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