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  1. #151
    the mountian is within
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    Try this-find star washers at a hardware store.Also use a good shimano QR or a DT RWS skewer.Also sounds simple-rough up or sand down the paint-inside and outside the dropout.The 'star'washers will set grooves into the metal so find your sweetspot first-i have seen some alum. bikes a mess with this-but a steel is tougher.We find the paint removal is usually enough with the good QR on any single speed.
    i own a bikeshop in WV thetruewheelwv.com

  2. #152
    Stayin' Puft
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    Quote Originally Posted by dblspeed
    The bolts on my Hope look very similar to King Funbolts, yet the thing moves
    I am using a DT 240s rear hub with the thru-bolt conversion, and a Hadley aluminum axle. The Hadley has no serrations on the nuts/bolt ends where they contact the frame, so it is all about getting the bolts tight enough for the serrations on the hub itself to bite on the inside of the track ends. I have the stock 2mm tensioner bolts that I use a little for adjusting when the bike is on the rack, then tighten very gently against the axle once the thru-bolt is already tightened down. I took the sheen off of the paint on the track ends with some fine grit paper but did not strip it them down to metal.

    So far so good...I only have a few rides in but last weekend hit some very rocky terrain where there were both erratic braking forces and climbing force against the axle, and the biggest bumps I could handle without walking, so...not a slip so far. I was a little concerned the Hadley axle is aluminum and thought I might strip the threads since I am used to tightening Surly steel track nuts...they have held so far. I would bet your Hope bolts are even more up to the task, so tighten those suckers down. I would rank the Hadley the least beefy solution compared to track nuts and King fun bolts...but it is working.

  3. #153
    Expert Crasher
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    Quote Originally Posted by canyonrat
    I am using a DT 240s rear hub with the thru-bolt conversion, and a Hadley aluminum axle. The Hadley has no serrations on the nuts/bolt ends where they contact the frame, so it is all about getting the bolts tight enough for the serrations on the hub itself to bite on the inside of the track ends. I have the stock 2mm tensioner bolts that I use a little for adjusting when the bike is on the rack, then tighten very gently against the axle once the thru-bolt is already tightened down. I took the sheen off of the paint on the track ends with some fine grit paper but did not strip it them down to metal.

    So far so good...I only have a few rides in but last weekend hit some very rocky terrain where there were both erratic braking forces and climbing force against the axle, and the biggest bumps I could handle without walking, so...not a slip so far. I was a little concerned the Hadley axle is aluminum and thought I might strip the threads since I am used to tightening Surly steel track nuts...they have held so far. I would bet your Hope bolts are even more up to the task, so tighten those suckers down. I would rank the Hadley the least beefy solution compared to track nuts and King fun bolts...but it is working.
    the bolts Hope uses are soft, you'll strip them if you don't use a good fitting allen wrench.
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  4. #154
    awesome
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    today I had the first 30 plus mile ride with the dual chain tug set up (2 bmx Ciari chain tensioners which weigh less than a single surly tuggnut). it might not solve the brake side sliding back issue completely but the drivetrain felt way more solid than before, especially on long hard climbs.

  5. #155
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    I'm using Jabbernutz (I think thats right?) and xt skewers and have never had any movement of rear axle/wheel.

  6. #156
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    Well, I need to revise my previous comment. No, my wheel did not slip, but the wimpy little stock adjusters ARE bent now just as others mentioned. If a bolt can be bent or damaged in any way, I will certainly do it so no surprise there. Off to the stainless steel aisle at Ace Hardware, or maybe just run without for awhile...I think when I "gently" tightened them against the axle they bent.

  7. #157
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    My newest Jabberwocky






  8. #158
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    nice action photo!

    wish i was riding right now!
    no machiavellian here.

  9. #159
    more beers, lees gears.
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    love the look of that white fox fork.
    A burrito is a sleeping bag for ground beef.

  10. #160
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    My new ride, first 29er/singlespeed/steel






  11. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by doughocker
    Why is your quick release pointing forward?
    Actually its one of those DT Swiss RWS things. At the time the bike was brand new. I hadn't messed with it much yet so I wasn't really worried with the direction it was pointing.

    Here's how it looks now though. A few of the parts have been switched out and the rws is pointing backward.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7daysaweek
    18" Jabber, custom built DT Swiss wheelset, White Brothers Rock Solid Carbon fork, Monkeylite SL's, Stylo Crank, Thomson stem/post, BB7s.

    LOVE IT!!!
    What chain is that you are running? I can't see very well, but it looks like a red half-link.

  13. #163
    WNC Native
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    Clyde worthy Jabber

    May get some bigger sweep bars, but here it is for now.



  14. #164
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    How tall are you? Is that a 20"? Can you get a straight on side view?

  15. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryo108
    What chain is that you are running? I can't see very well, but it looks like a red half-link.
    Its a KMC Z410.

  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryo108
    How tall are you? Is that a 20"? Can you get a straight on side view?
    I'm 6' and yes it is a 20". I ended up lowering the seat about 1/4"-1/2" and rotated the bars down a little more to find the sweet spot with this setup. I may try another set of larger sweep bars soon too.

    This is the closest to a side shot I have. If you like I could take a more level straight on side shot and/or maybe a shot of me on it, if you want.


  17. #167
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  18. #168
    more beers, lees gears.
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    does it look like everyone here is running negative rise stems or 0 ride stems?

    I had to flip my 5 upside down to feel comfortable on my 20" (6' 3").

    Its sad, but it bothers the heck out of me to see the stem logo upside down. I think i need to buy a negative rise thomson.
    A burrito is a sleeping bag for ground beef.

  19. #169
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  20. #170
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    That is awesome. Love the orange paint on the fork and is that a custom ano job on the Eno chainring? I would love a red Eno chainring, but I would want a red cog too.
    Last edited by larryo108; 04-13-2009 at 12:24 PM.

  21. #171
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  22. #172
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    That is a pretty bad ass Jabber there too. Lots of orange ones out there.

  23. #173
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    Orange is the colour!

    Yes, the chainring and the fork are custom...

  24. #174
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    Bike looks awesome. My orange frame should be here today!
    :wq

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky
    I'm 6' and yes it is a 20". I ended up lowering the seat about 1/4"-1/2" and rotated the bars down a little more to find the sweet spot with this setup. I may try another set of larger sweep bars soon too.

    This is the closest to a side shot I have. If you like I could take a more level straight on side shot and/or maybe a shot of me on it, if you want.
    I would really appreciate that. What is your inseam? What length are your cranks? Thanks.

    Also, if that is a 666mm Surly Torsion Bar which it looks like, I may be interested in buying it if you swap it out.
    Last edited by larryo108; 04-14-2009 at 06:05 PM.

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