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  1. #1
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! FAQ: Heavy Duty 29er Wheels

    I"m 250lbs(big boned) and looking for some heavy duty 29er wheels. The weight of the wheel is not an issue, what's a couple of more pounds to push! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Last edited by rockcrusher; 02-22-2008 at 01:27 PM.

  2. #2
    You know, for kids
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    250lbs myself running 36H Velocity Blunts

    most 36H rims should do the job for you
    disclaimer: I sell and repair bicycles

  3. #3
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    Kris Holm, Sun RhynoLites, or WTB DDFR's should do the trick.

  4. #4
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    I am building up some new Sun Equalizer 27mm 29er rims, they look real nice, I will give feed back once I am finished.

  5. #5
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    +1 for Rhynolites
    I run them on my 26er and my 29er

  6. #6
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    Liking my Halo Freedom rims... not gone out of true at all, and are getting ridden progresively harder as I'm gaining confidence.

  7. #7
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    What 29 er wheel set for a clydesdale? merged

    My son is 6'3" 300 pounds rides a paragon. What 29" wheel set would you recommend for a big rider?

  8. #8
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    KH rims laced to XT-equivalent or better hubs. Game, set, match.

    Try a search using clydesdale - this is an oft covered topic.
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  9. #9
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    I used to think that Shimano XT hubs were the most sturdy xc hubs available. But, over the years I've broken a bunch of free hubs and in most every case I was riding a really steep grade. However, for the money I'd still recommended them I just might buy an extra freehub in the event you break one. In addition get the XT hubs with the higher flange. I have a set of XT center locks and I can't stand them. My wheels are flexy mess and I have always attributed that to the low profile flange.

  10. #10
    Just Wanna Ride!
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    If the wheels will be used for general XC use I'd look for an XT hub and a WTB Dual Duty FR rim. Low buck option that will hold up to some abuse and is cheap to replace if you run into problems.

    Another options is Sun High Rider wheelset. It's based on a Rhyno Lite rim which should be plenty durable for XC use...
    http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp...t=49&brand=243

  11. #11
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    After looking at the many options that are available...I chose to go the XT 36 hole six-bolt disc hubs front and rear, and Rhyno-Lite rims, also 36 hole with DT-Swiss 14g spokes, built in a 4-cross pattern. I think the 36 hole rims/hubs are paramount to a strong wheelset for any Clydesdale. The shorter effective spoke length with the profile of the Rhyno-Lite rim should make a very strong wheelset. I also am going to run the WTB Weir Wolf 2.55 tires. May not be the lightest thing out there, but they will be strong.

    Plus, you always have the option of going with solid axles for extra stiffness!

  12. #12
    BWG
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    I'm 260 and Mikesee strongly recommended 36 hole Rhyno-lite rims with butted spokes for my new hardtail build. I chose Hope Pro II hubs - 10mm bolt-on rear and front converts easily from QR to 20mm TA. I'm currently running Stan's Flow rims (only come in 32 hole) with butted spokes and the same Hope hubs on my other (FS) bike. The hubs have been flawless but I knocked the rear out of true, which is why I'm going with 36 spokes on the new wheelset.

  13. #13
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    I have a set of Hope pro II hubs laced to DT swiss rims that are perfect for a clydesdale. I plan to post a set on the classifed once I get another rim in and my shop has time to build it. Should be 2 weeks. Watch the classifieds

  14. #14
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    I9 with KH

    I'm 6-5 and 235 and run I9's with KH rims and also have a set of Chris King hubs laced to DT Swiss TK 7.1's with the double eyelets and 14GA spokes.
    Both sets have proven reliable under my less than graceful riding and crashing and curb jumping.

  15. #15
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    From my post last week on the same subject:

    My light duty wheelset is 36h Rhyno's on DT Comps & DT FR hubs, have not even thought of running them for a long time. My every day wheels are the exact same setup except for the Kris Holm 38mm wide Unicycle rims. I thought the Rhyno's were stiff until I got the KH wheelset, wow: they don't even compare, not at all. The KH rims are over 800g each, but worth it if you want tough. The extra volume they give a tire and the way that they provide such better sidewall support to the tire's casing is sweet as well.
    Abandoned the 26" wheel in May '03

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWG
    I'm currently running Stan's Flow rims (only come in 32 hole).
    Looks like they're making them 36 hole now...

    http://www.notubes.com/product_info....roducts_id/395

  17. #17
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    xt hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by Schultz29
    I used to think that Shimano XT hubs were the most sturdy xc hubs available. But, over the years I've broken a bunch of free hubs and in most every case I was riding a really steep grade. However, for the money I'd still recommended them I just might buy an extra freehub in the event you break one. In addition get the XT hubs with the higher flange. I have a set of XT center locks and I can't stand them. My wheels are flexy mess and I have always attributed that to the low profile flange.
    xt hubs come with lx free hubs don't ask me why. But I also have hod problems

  18. #18
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    KH > Flow ($) > WTB DD FR > (Blunt) > Ryno > Delgado/TK


    Match your hubs to the requisite spoke counts - i.e. most are 32h (KH, Flow, WTB, Ryno, Deltaco, TK) and some are 36h (KH, Ryno, TK(?))
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  19. #19
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    holms is were its at!!

    cant say enough about the Kris Holm hoops that are on my Kona. The difference they make is just incredible!! being that they are so wide they make even a 2.2 look beefy! So along w/ the KH rims go for strait gauge spokes and brass nipples. go for a cheaper front hub and spend some money on a good rear hub like a Pofile Racing, Chris King , Hope, DT Swiss or even Hadley. also a big enprovement are throught axels. get rid of the quick realeases and bolt them on!! one more tip: for the rear hub go w/ a single speed hub or like the Profile a 6 speed hub. this will give ya a dishless wheel which translates to a very strong wheel.

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  20. #20
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    The Holms are great rims. Mine are laced to Hope Pro II hubs (dishless rear).

    Last edited by croscoe; 02-23-2008 at 12:13 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    KH > Flow ($) > WTB DD FR > (Blunt) > Ryno > Delgado/TK


    Match your hubs to the requisite spoke counts - i.e. most are 32h (KH, Flow, WTB, Ryno, Deltaco, TK) and some are 36h (KH, Ryno, TK(?))
    Why do you think the WTB DD FR is better than the Blunt and Rhyno? Just curious.
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  22. #22
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    Experience. The WTB DD FRs I've owned are still intact. Can not say that for the others built up similarly and employed in the same conditions.

    Quote Originally Posted by grawbass
    Why do you think the WTB DD FR is better than the Blunt and Rhyno? Just curious.
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  23. #23
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    I have a set of DT TK71 36h (with rim brake surface) on Hope Pro IIs on my rigid SS and they have been perfect for a year. I've weighed from 230lbs to my current 190ish weight. I agree that the KH and Flows at 36h should be stronger, but I wouldn't put the TK and Delgado in the same category. I guarantee I would have smashed the hell out of the Delgados by now. The TK71s take a lickin' and keep on tickin'...

  24. #24
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    32h in 559mm is perfect whereas in 622mm 36h is perfect thus using 32h in 622mm is not perfect as simple as that, so why 32h in 622mm for mtb exist? right, you can make a 4h rim but such rim would have to weight a tone.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davidcopperfield
    32h in 559mm is perfect whereas in 622mm 36h is perfect thus using 32h in 622mm is not perfect as simple as that, so why 32h in 622mm for mtb exist? right, you can make a 4h rim but such rim would have to weight a tone.
    So are you saying, that this rim (if produced) could also be used as a musical instrument? I recall an episode of Star Trek where Mr. Spock and a hippie chick were having a jam session. Spock played the Vulcan Harp while the hippie chick was shredding what appears to be a 29'er wheel. As you suggested the instrument seemed quite heavy but it produced a lovely tone.


  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davidcopperfield
    32h in 559mm is perfect whereas in 622mm 36h is perfect thus using 32h in 622mm is not perfect as simple as that, so why 32h in 622mm for mtb exist? right, you can make a 4h rim but such rim would have to weight a tone.
    You need more mountain bike between your legs and less between your ears.
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  27. #27
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    DT TK7.1 laced w DT 14/15 ga spokes (natch) to DT 340 hubs. 32h 3x lacing. I'm 235 and ride aggressive xc. A fine balance of weight and strength - do wish they were 5mm wider in cross section - stiffens up the tire.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by slocaus
    You need more mountain bike between your legs and less between your ears.
    I see it like this in 559mm you have certain distance between 32 spokes if you build a 622mm with 32 this distance is wider so the wheel is wekear and flexier. If you put 4 extra psokes -36- then you reduce the distance between spokes paying the weight penalty which is worth (unless prfi racing) it is like 20-25 grams a wheel. You get a 12,4% stiffer/stronger wheel. It was mentioned 12,5% is this correct?

  29. #29
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    KH 29 inch rims far superior to DT Swiss

    Replaced my taco'd DT Swiss (was it a bogus build, or is DT just not up to riding 29 fixed with a 190lb rider?) with bomber Kris Holm rims after only 1 month of riding my Karate Monkey fixed gear, which places a lot more weight on the front wheel in down hill situations.

    I hammered the same KH rim on my mountain uni, so I can ride it with confidence. Both front and back are now KH 29 rims.

    Your LBS will not understand the issues when you say you want something to hammer hard on and not fall apart (but they can't figure out that mountain uni is far more rad and stressful on the parts than the two wheeled version....).

  30. #30
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    The first rule of the 29er forums is to disregard davidcopafeel with extreme prejudice. The world will benefit from said behavior.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    The first rule of the 29er forums is to disregard davidcopafeel with extreme prejudice. The world will benefit from said behavior.
    It (DC) has been on my ignore list for a long time. My mind still gets unwanted doses of it's alleged thoughts by many folk who quote what it posts.

    It's a troll, yes quite possibly the strangest one yet, but still a troll.
    Abandoned the 26" wheel in May '03

  32. #32
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    What might one recommend for heavy-duty and light in the same package?

    I'm 195 lbs and currently on I-9's with ZTR Arch rims... the rear needs constant adjusting. Spoke tensions are correct, the rear rim is just not enough... front ZTR Arch rim is holding fine. Was considering a Flow for the rear but don't know if its gonna be enough. Wanna stay light though and I'm new to the 29'ers.

    *planning to build a new set upon the release of the new Reba 20mm thru axle fork, probably gonna hold off on the rear until then also so I've got time to research.

  33. #33
    Captain Underpants
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    Since it is now a sticky, here's my setup:

    Hope Pro II's (36h f/r)
    Sun RhynoLites
    DT Swiss Comps with brass nips.

    After a year of use, the front is in need of a minor true. the rear is still in true. Not bad for a 260# rider who likes running over things.

  34. #34
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    I am planning to build up a full suspension 29er this year and I already have a set of wheels I won at the Fruita Fat Tire Fest last year. I won a DT Swiss wheelset. Knowing I was building a 29er in the future, I chose the 29er wheelset. DT Swiss built up a 32 hole (36 hole not available) 29er DT Swiss wheelset with the 340 hubs. Anyway, I am a 230 lbs pound cross country rider from MN who takes occasional mtn biking trips out west. Will these hold up for me? Am I crazy to use these? As we all know, building a bike is expensive and I'd love to use these wheels since they are already in my basement ready to go.

  35. #35
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by RYNOFREERIDE
    DT Swiss built up a 32 hole (36 hole not available)
    Really?
    http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Comp...-7-1-gray.aspx

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davidcopperfield
    It's a full DT Swiss build with DT Swiss rims, 340 disc hubs, and DT spokes. The rim is available in 32 and 36 hole, but the 340 hub which was part of the deal comes in only 32.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by RYNOFREERIDE
    the 340 hub which was part of the deal comes in only 32.
    For stiffness it is advisable to go with 36 no matter what is offered. If it is 32 only do not take a deal and drop them a mail that a fashion from 26ers doesn't translate into 29ers and they should consider more durable wheels for 29ers.
    Use 36 rims and get your wheels built by a scrupulous builder. I would do this. Between 32 and 36 there is little weight penalty. The rear wheel ought o be 36 holed due to the cassette. Front wheel is the only place where you can go with 32.
    Ask mikesee about wieght distribution onto spokes.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davidcopperfield
    For stiffness it is advisable to go with 36 no matter what is offered.
    They were FREE wheels that he won! "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth."

    Quote Originally Posted by Davidcopperfield
    Ask mikesee about wieght distribution onto spokes.
    An an extended "tour" for another month or so.

    And Mikesee built my Hope Pro II with Stans Arch rims, 20mm TA front and bolt on rear with 32 hole double butted spokes and ALLOY nipples! I am 200 pounds, and 6'3" tall.



    Wheels with 32 spokes are fine for those of us that ride more than we theorize about riding.

    Show us a picture of your riding that you NEED 36 hole wheels, David!
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  39. #39
    don't tread on me
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    Don't worry about the dt wheelset holding up, RHYNOFREERIDE, I've got a tad bit of weight on you and have barreled thru rock gardens, hit 3' drops and have yet to need to true them - my wheelset is the same spec as the ones you won at Fruita. If DT built them, you've nothing to worry about.

    Karl

  40. #40
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    Thanks for all the responses so far! It's been informative.

    Like I said, I won these in a drawing, that's the only reason I have them. I didn't want to look a gift-horse in the mouth.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by RYNOFREERIDE
    Thanks for all the responses so far! It's been informative.

    Like I said, I won these in a drawing, that's the only reason I have them. I didn't want to look a gift-horse in the mouth.
    Hope we have not muddied the waters.

    Your wheels will work fine. Take DC and his theories with a grain of salt (see how I love those sayings? ). DC appears to be a thinker, but not a doer, so his opinions are suspect here on MTBR.
    "The physician heals, Nature makes well" - real fortune cookie

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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by slocaus
    Hope we have not muddied the waters.

    Your wheels will work fine. Take DC and his theories with a grain of salt (see how I love those sayings? ). DC appears to be a thinker, but not a doer, so his opinions are suspect here on MTBR.
    It's good to hear both sides. If I didn't have these wheels, I'd probably go with 36 hole Rhyno Lites. That's what I use on my current 26er hardtails and have never had a problem. Just needed some input before I considered using DT Swiss. I think I am going to go for it. I'm not an extreme rider. I'm just a cross country rider who hits some rock gardens. I'm not a big drops type of guy.

  43. #43
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    I am not saying that a 29er wheel with 32 holes cannot be stiif however this same wheel with 36 spokes wil be stiffer and therefore will endure more abuse. For Lunchbox, Behemoth and WFO9 36 is a standard and mimicing the 26er trand towards 32 doesn't make mauch sense. Perhaps those, who switched f.e.x from arches to flows may be still be better off on 36 holed arches.

  44. #44
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    hey slocaus, how are the Stan's holding up? I'm about your weight and a LBS suggested the ZTR's for my agressive XC style riding, in fact they ordered 1 rim already for my rear wheel because it's been out of true twice (Alex TD17 rims are crap!), forums suggest the 355, flows, and arch are high end.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbnachos
    hey slocaus, how are the Stan's holding up? I'm about your weight and a LBS suggested the ZTR's for my agressive XC style riding, in fact they ordered 1 rim already for my rear wheel because it's been out of true twice (Alex TD17 rims are crap!), forums suggest the 355, flows, and arch are high end.
    Holding up great. This is the lightest, best riding MTB wheelset I have had (I bought my first MTB in 1979). I plan to convert my other three wheelsets, and I will never have wheels built without tubeless rims again. Answer your question?
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  46. #46
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    can anyone comment on the durability of the crossmax 29ers?

    i'm in slowly creeping towards 190 (currently 198 down from 235 a year ago). i ride a rigid SS and do so pretty agressively. i kinda think "no" based my weight, the way i ride and the fact it's going on an SS.

    am i thinking right on this? i'd hate for these things to go all modern art on me.
    Last edited by bonefishjake; 03-11-2008 at 04:17 AM.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oliver
    I am building up some new Sun Equalizer 27mm 29er rims, they look real nice, I will give feed back once I am finished.
    Any news?

  48. #48
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    I just rebuilt my rear wheel with Flow's 36h 29er. First time using Stan rims. I just noticed that there are NO eyelets! I have a hardtail so I went the cheap route and just replace the rear rim. How much abuse can the Flow's take in technical XC?

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    Experience. The WTB DD FRs I've owned are still intact. Can not say that for the others built up similarly and employed in the same conditions.
    Agreed, no question there. But am curious, if you don't mind:

    What spoke count?

    Riding conditions? Bike?

    Your weight?

    Thanks in advance.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by YOOPER
    I"m 250lbs(big boned) and looking for some heavy duty 29er wheels. The weight of the wheel is not an issue, what's a couple of more pounds to push! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Over the last several years I've gravitated towards these rims for riders 225# and above:
    Kris Holm Uni rim (32 and 36)
    WTB DD FR (32 only)
    Sun Rhyno Lite (32 and 36)
    Stans Flow (32 and 36).

    For various reasons, I don't use anything else for riders in this weight category. Some of the 'other' rims out there were OK but all of them had a glaring drawback (loose fitting tires, mainly) that kept me from re-ordering them.

    I have limited time on a pre-production set of Salsa Gordo Disc rims and they look *very* promising for this application.

    Cheers,

    MC

  51. #51
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    Sun High Rider?

    Anybody have any experience with the Sun High Rider wheelset? Rhyno Lites + Disc Jockey hubs. I can't find much info on the hubs.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreePutt
    Anybody have any experience with the Sun High Rider wheelset? Rhyno Lites + Disc Jockey hubs. I can't find much info on the hubs.
    Yes. Had them since 10/07. Tough, durable, heavy. Great durable wheelset for the price, did I mention heavy? If you want durable and inexpensive, and do not mind heavy, they are winners.

    Now I'm riding some HopePro2/Arch tubeless. I have the High Rollers in reserve for gnarly AM, crazy rocky schtuff this summer...
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  53. #53
    err, 27.5+
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWG
    I'm currently running Stan's Flow rims (only come in 32 hole) with butted spokes and the same Hope hubs on my other (FS) bike. The hubs have been flawless but I knocked the rear out of true, which is why I'm going with 36 spokes on the new wheelset.
    FWIW the flows have been available in 36h for a few months now. Here is a set laced to 36h saint hubs

    With respect to the OP, it all depends on your definition of heavy duty. If it is trail riding with a 3' drop mixed in from time to time then there are a lot of options. If it is DH, jumps, abuse then the ONLY choice is Kris Holm rims.
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  54. #54
    banjo plunker, wrench
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    About a month ago, I put a set of XT 36h hubs, on 14g dt/swiss spokes, laced 4x, on 36h Rhyno-Lite rims. I've been riding them on everything from rocky, steep, gnarly, to buffed singletrack here in good ole N.C. I've tensioned them up once over the course of some 30 plus rides, and found that, while they keep their trueness, they are quite a bit heavier than the WTB Laser-Disc Trail rims with 32h Deore hubs that came stock on the Haro Mary XC. With this set-up, the XT/RL's, I felt a little better hitting some of the rock-strewn trails I ride in N.C. I didn't feel that confident on some of the decents though. I still want a little more rim stiffness for my 210lbs of weight/gear. No wheel flex to speak of when really tugging-at-the-bars during climbs, but the wheelset does seem to flex going thru rocks at speed, and over roots in slow tech-gnarl sections. Way better than the factory set-up, just not quite where I want them to be just yet....

    I've just received a set of Halo Freedom 36h 29er rims in black, and I'm going to build them up on Hope Pro II 36h front and rear hubs (thus having the option of converting them to 20mm thru-axle or thru-axle 10mm rear should the need arise). I'll use a 4x pattern once again, and use 14g spokes of the DT-Swiss variety. I'm also going to experiment with WTB Weirwolf 2.55 tires "done-up" "ghetto-stylee"!!!

    I'm looking for a little bit of weight loss on the wheelset using tubeless tire set-up, and also gaining the strength of the Halo rims...they are stronger than the R-L's but weigh more, so I'm losing the tubes to make up the difference, and going with the lighter Hope hubs. I'll let everyone know what happens in a couple of weeks...after a few rides on the wheelset..with a back-to-back comparison of the XT/Rhyno-lites vs. Hope Pro IIs/Halos.

    I'll post pics as well....

    It will be two weeks, because from April 23-27th....

    I'll be at MERLEFEST 2008!!!

  55. #55
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    Resurrection time!
    I'm looking into building some sturdier wheels. The combo's I'm currently looking at are either KH's, Rhyno's, or DualDutyFR's laced to XT hubs. At 225 lbs, on a rigid monocog, mostly smooth singletrack, with some rocks/roots/logs here and there. Current wheels are stock Alex/Redline rear and Bontrager Mustang/Redline front; I don't have a gauge, but wish I could run lower pressures without flatting. I ride fairly slow, but always aggressively, riding on or over anything possible. I would like to have more confidence in my wheel/tire combo. I've been blowing through tubes because of loose Rampage beads, but love the grip/volume. Price cap of about $250 (cause I'll probably get tires too). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozmosis
    Resurrection time!
    I'm looking into building some sturdier wheels. The combo's I'm currently looking at are either KH's, Rhyno's, or DualDutyFR's laced to XT hubs. At 225 lbs, on a rigid monocog, mostly smooth singletrack, with some rocks/roots/logs here and there. Current wheels are stock Alex/Redline rear and Bontrager Mustang/Redline front; I don't have a gauge, but wish I could run lower pressures without flatting. I ride fairly slow, but always aggressively, riding on or over anything possible. I would like to have more confidence in my wheel/tire combo. I've been blowing through tubes because of loose Rampage beads, but love the grip/volume. Price cap of about $250 (cause I'll probably get tires too). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    1 - see post #50 above by mikesee.
    2 - contact him via the lacemine29 link in his signature.
    Mike delivers that best wheel for the price you can get, period.
    "The physician heals, Nature makes well" - real fortune cookie

    CCCMB trail work for trail access - SLO, CA

  57. #57
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    Any word on the Salsa Gordo or Semi. Looks like good options.

  58. #58
    Holy Land Rider.
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    i'm pretty heavy myself
    and had a shot at all of bontrager's 29er and 26er wheels.
    the 29er rythem are quite sturdy.
    i myself use the rythem comp on my bike
    nice balance between price and what you get for.
    i belive the hubs in the ruthem comp are formula's

  59. #59
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    6'2 360lb need good wheels

    I think the title puts things in perpective for me. I ride a 29er SS Redline Monocog and love it but the rim comes out of true within 20 minutes when I ride this thing and it is not like I am jumping or taking drops. I mostly do trail riding but will would like to get aggressive without fear of rims or spokes breaking/bending.

    Any suggestions for solid 29er rims that will take a tank on it? I was looking at Sun MTX 33 rims but have no disc brakes and I am also looking in to Kris Holm rims but know nothing about them. I would also like to go to disc one day but this wheel issue is more of a priority for my limited budget at the moment.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

  60. #60
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    I have 36h Gordo's laced to Hadley Hubs. I'm 250lbs and zero problems.

  61. #61
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    Have you needed to true them?

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccd1977
    Have you needed to true them?
    Gordo's on Hadleys? Not once.

  63. #63
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    Where have you found the Sun MTX 33 rims in 29"? I have heard that they are a promising rim that falls somewhere between the Kris Holm rims and the Gordos as far as price, is stronger than the Gordo, and better designed than the KH.
    Last edited by Nubster; 04-06-2010 at 08:19 AM.

  64. #64
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    Gordos on DT Swiss 240s

    ... on my Monkey. Rock solid, built to last!!!

  65. #65
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    I still stand by the fact that Kris Holm FR rims are stronger than Gordos.

    I was riding full black grade technical rocky DH course at full speed this weekend not an issue.

    36 spokes, 47mm width (really gives a huge tyre footprint), insanely strong (they are designed for Freeriding on a unicycle.
    So multi metre drops onto one wheel with no suspension.... solid rim.
    Stronger and better made for the price compared to Gord

  66. #66
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    Geared up I'm a little over 200lbs. On my rigid Monocog 29er, I'm rolling Hope Pro II ss/trials hubs (love these hubs) laced to 32 hole WTB Dual Duty XC rims with brass nips and straight spokes. I've been riding these wheels as hard as I can since October of 2008 and I've only had to true my front wheel once (just a tiny bit) after a bigger drop than I should have done rigid.

    My bro-in-law is about 225lbs he's rolling the FR version of the Dual Duty, laced to XT hubs on his Gary Fischer Rig (front sus). He drops bigger stuff than I'll go near and also has no complaints about the WTB rims. I find these rims to be pretty underrated.

  67. #67
    rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant
    I still stand by the fact that Kris Holm FR rims are stronger than Gordos.

    I was riding full black grade technical rocky DH course at full speed this weekend not an issue.

    36 spokes, 47mm width (really gives a huge tyre footprint), insanely strong (they are designed for Freeriding on a unicycle.
    So multi metre drops onto one wheel with no suspension.... solid rim.
    Stronger and better made for the price compared to Gord
    CG, I'm running the older 38mm wide KH rims. I spoke w/KH about a year ago and he & I discussed the way the newer rims, like you have, are drilled and we both came to the conclusion that they might not be great for use on MTB's. Could you please describe, or post a pic of how you laced the wheel build?
    Abandoned the 26" wheel in May '03

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster
    Where have you found the Sun MTX 33 rims in 29"? I have heard that they are a promising rim that falls somewhere between the Kris Holm rims and the Gordos as far as price, is stronger than the Gordo, and better designed than the KH.
    Your LBS can call up and order some right now.

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erchico
    CG, I'm running the older 38mm wide KH rims. I spoke w/KH about a year ago and he & I discussed the way the newer rims, like you have, are drilled and we both came to the conclusion that they might not be great for use on MTB's. Could you please describe, or post a pic of how you laced the wheel build?
    I have been told the same thing. The way the holes are now being drilled are an improvement for unicyclists but are not so good for the long term health of the wheels used in a mountain bike application.

    Cut and pasted from an email I received from Mike Curiak explaining why the KH rims are not the optimal clyde rim anymore:

    Iíve been building with the KH rims for about 6 years now. They were THE go-to superclyde rim for the first 5 years of their existence, but about a year ago Kris made a change and offset the spoke holes in these rims. Offsetting them makes great sense for his preferred use of mountain unicycling, as their hub flanges are much wider than on MTB hubs. But ultimately the increased offset of the spoke holes means that (when laced to MTB hubs) the spokes have a harsh bend where they enter the rim. When the wheels are new, no big deal. But as the wheels age and incur ever increasing fatigue cycles, that harsh bend is the most likely place for spokes to start breaking.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by newskoolbiker
    Your LBS can call up and order some right now.
    Thanks...I'll look into that.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erchico
    CG, I'm running the older 38mm wide KH rims. I spoke w/KH about a year ago and he & I discussed the way the newer rims, like you have, are drilled and we both came to the conclusion that they might not be great for use on MTB's. Could you please describe, or post a pic of how you laced the wheel build?
    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster
    I have been told the same thing. The way the holes are now being drilled are an improvement for unicyclists but are not so good for the long term health of the wheels used in a mountain bike application.

    Cut and pasted from an email I received from Mike Curiak explaining why the KH rims are not the optimal clyde rim anymore:

    Iíve been building with the KH rims for about 6 years now. They were THE go-to superclyde rim for the first 5 years of their existence, but about a year ago Kris made a change and offset the spoke holes in these rims. Offsetting them makes great sense for his preferred use of mountain unicycling, as their hub flanges are much wider than on MTB hubs. But ultimately the increased offset of the spoke holes means that (when laced to MTB hubs) the spokes have a harsh bend where they enter the rim. When the wheels are new, no big deal. But as the wheels age and incur ever increasing fatigue cycles, that harsh bend is the most likely place for spokes to start breaking.
    One caveat to both of the above quotes--the KH rims are still a great idea for anyone running wide flange spacing. In other words, rim brake hubs, dedicated SS rear hubs, etc...

    MC

  72. #72
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    What is he talking about with a harsh bend?

    I am confused?

    I have laced nearside holes to nearside flange, meaning it is more straight...not more bent...confused.

    I also lace mine to double the tension mr kuriac does.

    They seem absolutely bombproof so far and I have been abusing like hell.


    I don't understand Mr Kuriac's mechanism for faliure, can someone please explain.

    Thanks,

    P

  73. #73
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    laced standard 4x nearside rim to nearside flange,
    What did you want a photo of

  74. #74
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    Hey I'm about 205 lbs, and my stock wheels fold like cheap tinfoil. I'm looking at 36h Shimano deore xt hubs with rhyno lite rims and Dt swiss 14g spokes. My question is that since I want these specific parts, would it be easier/cheaper to build them myself, and if so how hard is it and does anyone have any tips? Thanks

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by crm2442@gmail.com
    Hey I'm about 205 lbs, and my stock wheels fold like cheap tinfoil. I'm looking at 36h Shimano deore xt hubs with rhyno lite rims and Dt swiss 14g spokes. My question is that since I want these specific parts, would it be easier/cheaper to build them myself, and if so how hard is it and does anyone have any tips? Thanks
    You might want to look at the Sun MTX33 29 as well. A 29er FR/DH rim. I am a 200lbs rider on a rigid bike and have progressed from light rims to medium duty (laserdisc trail 29) wheels to the MTX 33.

    The MTX 33 with 32 spokes are stout and stiff, 36 spokes could be over kill especially if you already have 32 hole hubs. If you are interested in building your own wheels sheldon brown's website has a great tutorial for that but remember the most important factor in having strong wheels is not necessarily the parts but the quality of the build (tension, lacing, stress relieving etc).

    So you may want to calculate spoke lengths (DT Swiss spoke calculator works nicely) buy your own parts and lace them up but you may also want to consider taking them into a professional wheel builder and having them properly tensioned.

    Alternatively if this will be a learning experience for you and you don't mind spending the money, get yourself a spoke tensionometer and a truing jig and go to it. Build your wheels for strength with 3 cross spokes and smart spoke and nipple choices and learn from your mistakes.
    Try this: HTFU

  76. #76
    Big Fat Slow Dude
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    So, I am a bit of an outlier, 6'7" 355. I've been running XT Hubs and Mavic A719 36H on my Walt. I'm too heavy for my through-axle WB fork, even lock-out and 120psi won't stop the 3 inch compression from just sitting on the bike.

    So I had Walt build me a new fork, but there was confusion, and I wound up with a QR fork, so I am going to get another front wheel. Walt and I are thinking about Hope 2 and Flow rims... or I can pay about $30 more and get the DT 240 hub.

    (Excuse any mis-statements, I'm a very enthusiastic novice still).

    Questions:

    Thoughts on the Flow rim for someone of my...carriage?

    Is it worth $30 to upgrade to the DT hub?

    I'm going to just assume that given my size, even though it is a front, I should go with 36h not 32h? My riding is 85% bike trail, 10% fire road/decent single track. I will likely never do aggressive DH, and if I ever go off a jump or a drop, it will be by accident.

    Thanks guys!

  77. #77
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    Im 6'3" and 240lbs and I thought I was of an exceptional.... carriage? .. I would say consider the following options:
    1) most of what we need to know is done by the DH guys.
    2) use a large volume tire, (2.3 or higher).
    3) for hubs if you have a 135mm rear, consider going to a single speed hub and sacrificing a few gears, down to 5 or maybe 6.check out the flange distances on the hope 135 SS, it is pretty wide.
    4) It is clear from what I have read on this forum that for big guys or DH applications 28 spokes is far too few so less than 32 is out of the question. But I dont know how much more strength you get going from 32 to 36 with the 622mm rims. Might be worth it. At some point the extra holes in the rim have to mean something. The verdict seems to still be out.
    5) Do some reading on the makes and materials of spokes. I personally like the wheelsmith 2.0 straight stainless steel spokes. They are thick and seem to have more springyness in them. Im not a material scientist or mechanical engineer, it would be worthwhile to do a search on this forum of the various discussions of spokes but I like the wide straight stainless steel spokes.
    Last edited by paul29er; 05-22-2011 at 02:20 PM.
    stl 29 htail: Tru 3.3 stylo 180mm. WB 135/20mm, sram X-9. Schw RR. Hayes Trail 203mm, hbars spank777

  78. #78
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    Valid Rear Wheel Setup using Kris Holm 29" 36H (28mm width) rim

    Hi there

    I am planning to build a strong rear wheel for a Gary Fisher G2 frame, hardtail 29er. I am a BIG (6' 3", ~300#) guy planning on doing some strong XC biking.

    I have a pair of Bontrager Ranger wheels, which are not particularly stiff, not to mention that I have already broken 4 spokes in the last 3 months. I just don't trust the wheel any longer.

    I've read that KH rims could be the strongest around for that purpose (I am more interested in durability and strenght rather than in weight).

    What I wanted to know is whether this is a valid setup for the rear wheel to stand my abuse:

    Rim: Kris Holm 29 inch 3rd Generation 36 Hole Rim XC (38mm wide)
    Hub: 8 speed compatible, disc brake (6 bolt IS), 36H, 135mm hubs like the Hope Pro II hub.
    Spokes: DT Swiss Competition Double Butted (2.0mm/1.8mm)
    Nipples: Brass, DT Swiss Pro Lock


    Sorry to bother you with this basic question, but as I am a total newcomer on this, I just wanted to be sure. After reading many threads in the forums, I still can't figure out if this is a certain possibility.

    Thanks

  79. #79
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    I have one wheelset that's 36 spoke Gordos and my main set is 32 spoke Salsa Semis. I like the Semis on my FS bike and the Gordos are going on my hardtail. I really like Salsa's rims.
    I like turtles

  80. #80
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    I like Gordo's

    Quote Originally Posted by zaqi View Post
    I am planning to build a strong rear wheel for a Gary Fisher G2 frame, hardtail 29er. I am a BIG (6' 3", ~300#) guy planning on doing some strong XC biking.

    I've read that KH rims could be the strongest around for that purpose (I am more interested in durability and strenght rather than in weight).

    valid setup?

    Rim: Kris Holm 29 inch 3rd Generation 36 Hole Rim XC (38mm wide)
    Hub: 8 speed compatible, disc brake (6 bolt IS), 36H, 135mm hubs like the Hope Pro II hub.
    Spokes: DT Swiss Competition Double Butted (2.0mm/1.8mm)
    Nipples: Brass, DT Swiss Pro Lock
    I built my Clyde wheels using DT Swiss 240 SS hubs and 32h Salsa Gordo 29'er rims. The Gordos are a more standard mtb rim. When I was researching rims for my build, it seemed there was something non-standard (mtb wise) about the KH rims that pushed me towards the Gordos, although I can't remember what it was off the top of my head. I'm 6'1" and 300 lbs, and they are still true a year later. I have a six speed spider on the hub.

    Spoke & nipple selection looks good.


  81. #81
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    Salsa Gordos vs Kris Holm

    Thank you!

    Perhaps the fact that the Kris Holm 29 inch 3rd Generation 36 Hole Rim XC (38mm wide) dont have OSB was the issue?

    I've read that the KH (47mm wide, not the 38mm) had a symmetrical OSB of around +-10mm that was not recommended for a rear disk hub wheel.
    Perhaps the 38mm does not have this problem?

    The guys from Zinn bikes told me that both could be suitable. In any case, I'm not interested on the 47mm wide, but I just want to make sure that I can order the right components, as in Buenos Aires those are not immediately available, and most likely I will have to import them.

  82. #82
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    Hope Hubs + 280lb clydesdale: NOPE.

    I was in my lowest gear torquing up a steep short incline, and heard a 'crack' and felt my pedals backpedal a bit. Hm. Maybe it was a bit of a ghost shift. Kept going.

    Started my downhill, and all of the sudden my chain started gathering behind my crank and dropping down inside the chainstay. Really weird. Couldn't diagnose it, so bailed on the ride and took the bike into the shop.

    It turns out I'd literally shredded the internals. The axle and cassette was completely detached from the hub. That's what the crack was, evidently.

    I'd heard of this before, so I guess I ignored it at my peril. Note: from now on, no more Hobe rear hubs for me.

  83. #83
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    hey guys im a newb but im a clyde too im looking for someone in the philly area to build me a set of wheels any suggestions?

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billiam90 View Post
    hey guys im a newb but im a clyde too im looking for someone in the philly area to build me a set of wheels any suggestions?
    Buy a stand, nipple wrenches and a park meter and build your own with this link Wheelbuilding

    Easy as making chili.
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  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billiam90 View Post
    hey guys im a newb but im a clyde too im looking for someone in the philly area to build me a set of wheels any suggestions?
    If you're not up for building your own, I highly recommend the Bicycle Stable at 1420 Frankford Ave in Phila. They're super friendly and knowledgeable. They charge $35 for a wheel build (plus materials).

    I'm a clyde too and had them rebuild my Rhyno Lite/generic hub SS wheels, they've been true for over a year now.

  86. #86
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    well i got my rims and hubs in i picked up the new tubeless laserdisc wtb rims with the shimano 529 series hubs for about 160$ shipped! gping to my local bike shop and having the owner build them up tomorrow!

  87. #87
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    Yeap I have had one go and several that would create a ton of change slap if you stopped peddling in high gear. I didn't have this problem with ultegra hubs. But low flange of course. Anyone on Blunt/Blunt SL's? I am 250 and am looking for a urban rim I can take on tour. Stuck with 32 spokes for this set. Alfine IGH rear and generator hub in front. Hoping to build a wheel set I can use on tour on and off the road.

    Quote Originally Posted by wrongway benton View Post
    xt hubs come with lx free hubs don't ask me why. But I also have hod problems

  88. #88
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    Flows on hopes...been riding em for several years now doing lots of rough riding. Was 270lb until five months ago now 210...love these wheels wouldnt even consider something else. Imo these are the best quality/price build out there.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  89. #89
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    I surprised I haven't seen anyone mention E Thirteen hubs. Does any one have experience with these? They seem like they would lend themselves well to building a stout wheel set.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedRiver View Post
    I surprised I haven't seen anyone mention E Thirteen hubs. Does any one have experience with these? They seem like they would lend themselves well to building a stout wheel set.
    Probably because it's an older thread. Optimus reports good things about his e13 LG1+ hubs: click.

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