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  1. #51
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    Sun High Rider?

    Anybody have any experience with the Sun High Rider wheelset? Rhyno Lites + Disc Jockey hubs. I can't find much info on the hubs.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreePutt
    Anybody have any experience with the Sun High Rider wheelset? Rhyno Lites + Disc Jockey hubs. I can't find much info on the hubs.
    Yes. Had them since 10/07. Tough, durable, heavy. Great durable wheelset for the price, did I mention heavy? If you want durable and inexpensive, and do not mind heavy, they are winners.

    Now I'm riding some HopePro2/Arch tubeless. I have the High Rollers in reserve for gnarly AM, crazy rocky schtuff this summer...
    "The physician heals, Nature makes well" - real fortune cookie

    CCCMB trail work for trail access - SLO, CA

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWG
    I'm currently running Stan's Flow rims (only come in 32 hole) with butted spokes and the same Hope hubs on my other (FS) bike. The hubs have been flawless but I knocked the rear out of true, which is why I'm going with 36 spokes on the new wheelset.
    FWIW the flows have been available in 36h for a few months now. Here is a set laced to 36h saint hubs

    With respect to the OP, it all depends on your definition of heavy duty. If it is trail riding with a 3' drop mixed in from time to time then there are a lot of options. If it is DH, jumps, abuse then the ONLY choice is Kris Holm rims.
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  4. #54
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    About a month ago, I put a set of XT 36h hubs, on 14g dt/swiss spokes, laced 4x, on 36h Rhyno-Lite rims. I've been riding them on everything from rocky, steep, gnarly, to buffed singletrack here in good ole N.C. I've tensioned them up once over the course of some 30 plus rides, and found that, while they keep their trueness, they are quite a bit heavier than the WTB Laser-Disc Trail rims with 32h Deore hubs that came stock on the Haro Mary XC. With this set-up, the XT/RL's, I felt a little better hitting some of the rock-strewn trails I ride in N.C. I didn't feel that confident on some of the decents though. I still want a little more rim stiffness for my 210lbs of weight/gear. No wheel flex to speak of when really tugging-at-the-bars during climbs, but the wheelset does seem to flex going thru rocks at speed, and over roots in slow tech-gnarl sections. Way better than the factory set-up, just not quite where I want them to be just yet....

    I've just received a set of Halo Freedom 36h 29er rims in black, and I'm going to build them up on Hope Pro II 36h front and rear hubs (thus having the option of converting them to 20mm thru-axle or thru-axle 10mm rear should the need arise). I'll use a 4x pattern once again, and use 14g spokes of the DT-Swiss variety. I'm also going to experiment with WTB Weirwolf 2.55 tires "done-up" "ghetto-stylee"!!!

    I'm looking for a little bit of weight loss on the wheelset using tubeless tire set-up, and also gaining the strength of the Halo rims...they are stronger than the R-L's but weigh more, so I'm losing the tubes to make up the difference, and going with the lighter Hope hubs. I'll let everyone know what happens in a couple of weeks...after a few rides on the wheelset..with a back-to-back comparison of the XT/Rhyno-lites vs. Hope Pro IIs/Halos.

    I'll post pics as well....

    It will be two weeks, because from April 23-27th....

    I'll be at MERLEFEST 2008!!!

  5. #55
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    Resurrection time!
    I'm looking into building some sturdier wheels. The combo's I'm currently looking at are either KH's, Rhyno's, or DualDutyFR's laced to XT hubs. At 225 lbs, on a rigid monocog, mostly smooth singletrack, with some rocks/roots/logs here and there. Current wheels are stock Alex/Redline rear and Bontrager Mustang/Redline front; I don't have a gauge, but wish I could run lower pressures without flatting. I ride fairly slow, but always aggressively, riding on or over anything possible. I would like to have more confidence in my wheel/tire combo. I've been blowing through tubes because of loose Rampage beads, but love the grip/volume. Price cap of about $250 (cause I'll probably get tires too). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozmosis
    Resurrection time!
    I'm looking into building some sturdier wheels. The combo's I'm currently looking at are either KH's, Rhyno's, or DualDutyFR's laced to XT hubs. At 225 lbs, on a rigid monocog, mostly smooth singletrack, with some rocks/roots/logs here and there. Current wheels are stock Alex/Redline rear and Bontrager Mustang/Redline front; I don't have a gauge, but wish I could run lower pressures without flatting. I ride fairly slow, but always aggressively, riding on or over anything possible. I would like to have more confidence in my wheel/tire combo. I've been blowing through tubes because of loose Rampage beads, but love the grip/volume. Price cap of about $250 (cause I'll probably get tires too). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    1 - see post #50 above by mikesee.
    2 - contact him via the lacemine29 link in his signature.
    Mike delivers that best wheel for the price you can get, period.
    "The physician heals, Nature makes well" - real fortune cookie

    CCCMB trail work for trail access - SLO, CA

  7. #57
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    Any word on the Salsa Gordo or Semi. Looks like good options.

  8. #58
    Holy Land Rider.
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    i'm pretty heavy myself
    and had a shot at all of bontrager's 29er and 26er wheels.
    the 29er rythem are quite sturdy.
    i myself use the rythem comp on my bike
    nice balance between price and what you get for.
    i belive the hubs in the ruthem comp are formula's

  9. #59
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    6'2 360lb need good wheels

    I think the title puts things in perpective for me. I ride a 29er SS Redline Monocog and love it but the rim comes out of true within 20 minutes when I ride this thing and it is not like I am jumping or taking drops. I mostly do trail riding but will would like to get aggressive without fear of rims or spokes breaking/bending.

    Any suggestions for solid 29er rims that will take a tank on it? I was looking at Sun MTX 33 rims but have no disc brakes and I am also looking in to Kris Holm rims but know nothing about them. I would also like to go to disc one day but this wheel issue is more of a priority for my limited budget at the moment.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

  10. #60
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    I have 36h Gordo's laced to Hadley Hubs. I'm 250lbs and zero problems.

  11. #61
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    Have you needed to true them?

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccd1977
    Have you needed to true them?
    Gordo's on Hadleys? Not once.

  13. #63
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    Where have you found the Sun MTX 33 rims in 29"? I have heard that they are a promising rim that falls somewhere between the Kris Holm rims and the Gordos as far as price, is stronger than the Gordo, and better designed than the KH.
    Last edited by Nubster; 04-06-2010 at 08:19 AM.

  14. #64
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    Gordos on DT Swiss 240s

    ... on my Monkey. Rock solid, built to last!!!

  15. #65
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    I still stand by the fact that Kris Holm FR rims are stronger than Gordos.

    I was riding full black grade technical rocky DH course at full speed this weekend not an issue.

    36 spokes, 47mm width (really gives a huge tyre footprint), insanely strong (they are designed for Freeriding on a unicycle.
    So multi metre drops onto one wheel with no suspension.... solid rim.
    Stronger and better made for the price compared to Gord

  16. #66
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    Geared up I'm a little over 200lbs. On my rigid Monocog 29er, I'm rolling Hope Pro II ss/trials hubs (love these hubs) laced to 32 hole WTB Dual Duty XC rims with brass nips and straight spokes. I've been riding these wheels as hard as I can since October of 2008 and I've only had to true my front wheel once (just a tiny bit) after a bigger drop than I should have done rigid.

    My bro-in-law is about 225lbs he's rolling the FR version of the Dual Duty, laced to XT hubs on his Gary Fischer Rig (front sus). He drops bigger stuff than I'll go near and also has no complaints about the WTB rims. I find these rims to be pretty underrated.

  17. #67
    rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant
    I still stand by the fact that Kris Holm FR rims are stronger than Gordos.

    I was riding full black grade technical rocky DH course at full speed this weekend not an issue.

    36 spokes, 47mm width (really gives a huge tyre footprint), insanely strong (they are designed for Freeriding on a unicycle.
    So multi metre drops onto one wheel with no suspension.... solid rim.
    Stronger and better made for the price compared to Gord
    CG, I'm running the older 38mm wide KH rims. I spoke w/KH about a year ago and he & I discussed the way the newer rims, like you have, are drilled and we both came to the conclusion that they might not be great for use on MTB's. Could you please describe, or post a pic of how you laced the wheel build?
    Abandoned the 26" wheel in May '03

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster
    Where have you found the Sun MTX 33 rims in 29"? I have heard that they are a promising rim that falls somewhere between the Kris Holm rims and the Gordos as far as price, is stronger than the Gordo, and better designed than the KH.
    Your LBS can call up and order some right now.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erchico
    CG, I'm running the older 38mm wide KH rims. I spoke w/KH about a year ago and he & I discussed the way the newer rims, like you have, are drilled and we both came to the conclusion that they might not be great for use on MTB's. Could you please describe, or post a pic of how you laced the wheel build?
    I have been told the same thing. The way the holes are now being drilled are an improvement for unicyclists but are not so good for the long term health of the wheels used in a mountain bike application.

    Cut and pasted from an email I received from Mike Curiak explaining why the KH rims are not the optimal clyde rim anymore:

    Iíve been building with the KH rims for about 6 years now. They were THE go-to superclyde rim for the first 5 years of their existence, but about a year ago Kris made a change and offset the spoke holes in these rims. Offsetting them makes great sense for his preferred use of mountain unicycling, as their hub flanges are much wider than on MTB hubs. But ultimately the increased offset of the spoke holes means that (when laced to MTB hubs) the spokes have a harsh bend where they enter the rim. When the wheels are new, no big deal. But as the wheels age and incur ever increasing fatigue cycles, that harsh bend is the most likely place for spokes to start breaking.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by newskoolbiker
    Your LBS can call up and order some right now.
    Thanks...I'll look into that.

  21. #71
    This place needs an enema
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erchico
    CG, I'm running the older 38mm wide KH rims. I spoke w/KH about a year ago and he & I discussed the way the newer rims, like you have, are drilled and we both came to the conclusion that they might not be great for use on MTB's. Could you please describe, or post a pic of how you laced the wheel build?
    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster
    I have been told the same thing. The way the holes are now being drilled are an improvement for unicyclists but are not so good for the long term health of the wheels used in a mountain bike application.

    Cut and pasted from an email I received from Mike Curiak explaining why the KH rims are not the optimal clyde rim anymore:

    Iíve been building with the KH rims for about 6 years now. They were THE go-to superclyde rim for the first 5 years of their existence, but about a year ago Kris made a change and offset the spoke holes in these rims. Offsetting them makes great sense for his preferred use of mountain unicycling, as their hub flanges are much wider than on MTB hubs. But ultimately the increased offset of the spoke holes means that (when laced to MTB hubs) the spokes have a harsh bend where they enter the rim. When the wheels are new, no big deal. But as the wheels age and incur ever increasing fatigue cycles, that harsh bend is the most likely place for spokes to start breaking.
    One caveat to both of the above quotes--the KH rims are still a great idea for anyone running wide flange spacing. In other words, rim brake hubs, dedicated SS rear hubs, etc...

    MC

  22. #72
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    What is he talking about with a harsh bend?

    I am confused?

    I have laced nearside holes to nearside flange, meaning it is more straight...not more bent...confused.

    I also lace mine to double the tension mr kuriac does.

    They seem absolutely bombproof so far and I have been abusing like hell.


    I don't understand Mr Kuriac's mechanism for faliure, can someone please explain.

    Thanks,

    P

  23. #73
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    laced standard 4x nearside rim to nearside flange,
    What did you want a photo of

  24. #74
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    Hey I'm about 205 lbs, and my stock wheels fold like cheap tinfoil. I'm looking at 36h Shimano deore xt hubs with rhyno lite rims and Dt swiss 14g spokes. My question is that since I want these specific parts, would it be easier/cheaper to build them myself, and if so how hard is it and does anyone have any tips? Thanks

  25. #75
    workin' it Administrator
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    Quote Originally Posted by crm2442@gmail.com
    Hey I'm about 205 lbs, and my stock wheels fold like cheap tinfoil. I'm looking at 36h Shimano deore xt hubs with rhyno lite rims and Dt swiss 14g spokes. My question is that since I want these specific parts, would it be easier/cheaper to build them myself, and if so how hard is it and does anyone have any tips? Thanks
    You might want to look at the Sun MTX33 29 as well. A 29er FR/DH rim. I am a 200lbs rider on a rigid bike and have progressed from light rims to medium duty (laserdisc trail 29) wheels to the MTX 33.

    The MTX 33 with 32 spokes are stout and stiff, 36 spokes could be over kill especially if you already have 32 hole hubs. If you are interested in building your own wheels sheldon brown's website has a great tutorial for that but remember the most important factor in having strong wheels is not necessarily the parts but the quality of the build (tension, lacing, stress relieving etc).

    So you may want to calculate spoke lengths (DT Swiss spoke calculator works nicely) buy your own parts and lace them up but you may also want to consider taking them into a professional wheel builder and having them properly tensioned.

    Alternatively if this will be a learning experience for you and you don't mind spending the money, get yourself a spoke tensionometer and a truing jig and go to it. Build your wheels for strength with 3 cross spokes and smart spoke and nipple choices and learn from your mistakes.
    Try this: HTFU

  26. #76
    Big Fat Slow Dude
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    So, I am a bit of an outlier, 6'7" 355. I've been running XT Hubs and Mavic A719 36H on my Walt. I'm too heavy for my through-axle WB fork, even lock-out and 120psi won't stop the 3 inch compression from just sitting on the bike.

    So I had Walt build me a new fork, but there was confusion, and I wound up with a QR fork, so I am going to get another front wheel. Walt and I are thinking about Hope 2 and Flow rims... or I can pay about $30 more and get the DT 240 hub.

    (Excuse any mis-statements, I'm a very enthusiastic novice still).

    Questions:

    Thoughts on the Flow rim for someone of my...carriage?

    Is it worth $30 to upgrade to the DT hub?

    I'm going to just assume that given my size, even though it is a front, I should go with 36h not 32h? My riding is 85% bike trail, 10% fire road/decent single track. I will likely never do aggressive DH, and if I ever go off a jump or a drop, it will be by accident.

    Thanks guys!

  27. #77
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    Im 6'3" and 240lbs and I thought I was of an exceptional.... carriage? .. I would say consider the following options:
    1) most of what we need to know is done by the DH guys.
    2) use a large volume tire, (2.3 or higher).
    3) for hubs if you have a 135mm rear, consider going to a single speed hub and sacrificing a few gears, down to 5 or maybe 6.check out the flange distances on the hope 135 SS, it is pretty wide.
    4) It is clear from what I have read on this forum that for big guys or DH applications 28 spokes is far too few so less than 32 is out of the question. But I dont know how much more strength you get going from 32 to 36 with the 622mm rims. Might be worth it. At some point the extra holes in the rim have to mean something. The verdict seems to still be out.
    5) Do some reading on the makes and materials of spokes. I personally like the wheelsmith 2.0 straight stainless steel spokes. They are thick and seem to have more springyness in them. Im not a material scientist or mechanical engineer, it would be worthwhile to do a search on this forum of the various discussions of spokes but I like the wide straight stainless steel spokes.
    Last edited by paul29er; 05-22-2011 at 02:20 PM.
    stl 29 htail: Tru 3.3 stylo 180mm. WB 135/20mm, sram X-9. Schw RR. Hayes Trail 203mm, hbars spank777

  28. #78
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    Valid Rear Wheel Setup using Kris Holm 29" 36H (28mm width) rim

    Hi there

    I am planning to build a strong rear wheel for a Gary Fisher G2 frame, hardtail 29er. I am a BIG (6' 3", ~300#) guy planning on doing some strong XC biking.

    I have a pair of Bontrager Ranger wheels, which are not particularly stiff, not to mention that I have already broken 4 spokes in the last 3 months. I just don't trust the wheel any longer.

    I've read that KH rims could be the strongest around for that purpose (I am more interested in durability and strenght rather than in weight).

    What I wanted to know is whether this is a valid setup for the rear wheel to stand my abuse:

    Rim: Kris Holm 29 inch 3rd Generation 36 Hole Rim XC (38mm wide)
    Hub: 8 speed compatible, disc brake (6 bolt IS), 36H, 135mm hubs like the Hope Pro II hub.
    Spokes: DT Swiss Competition Double Butted (2.0mm/1.8mm)
    Nipples: Brass, DT Swiss Pro Lock


    Sorry to bother you with this basic question, but as I am a total newcomer on this, I just wanted to be sure. After reading many threads in the forums, I still can't figure out if this is a certain possibility.

    Thanks

  29. #79
    turtles make me hot
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    I have one wheelset that's 36 spoke Gordos and my main set is 32 spoke Salsa Semis. I like the Semis on my FS bike and the Gordos are going on my hardtail. I really like Salsa's rims.
    I like turtles

  30. #80
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    I like Gordo's

    Quote Originally Posted by zaqi View Post
    I am planning to build a strong rear wheel for a Gary Fisher G2 frame, hardtail 29er. I am a BIG (6' 3", ~300#) guy planning on doing some strong XC biking.

    I've read that KH rims could be the strongest around for that purpose (I am more interested in durability and strenght rather than in weight).

    valid setup?

    Rim: Kris Holm 29 inch 3rd Generation 36 Hole Rim XC (38mm wide)
    Hub: 8 speed compatible, disc brake (6 bolt IS), 36H, 135mm hubs like the Hope Pro II hub.
    Spokes: DT Swiss Competition Double Butted (2.0mm/1.8mm)
    Nipples: Brass, DT Swiss Pro Lock
    I built my Clyde wheels using DT Swiss 240 SS hubs and 32h Salsa Gordo 29'er rims. The Gordos are a more standard mtb rim. When I was researching rims for my build, it seemed there was something non-standard (mtb wise) about the KH rims that pushed me towards the Gordos, although I can't remember what it was off the top of my head. I'm 6'1" and 300 lbs, and they are still true a year later. I have a six speed spider on the hub.

    Spoke & nipple selection looks good.


  31. #81
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    Salsa Gordos vs Kris Holm

    Thank you!

    Perhaps the fact that the Kris Holm 29 inch 3rd Generation 36 Hole Rim XC (38mm wide) dont have OSB was the issue?

    I've read that the KH (47mm wide, not the 38mm) had a symmetrical OSB of around +-10mm that was not recommended for a rear disk hub wheel.
    Perhaps the 38mm does not have this problem?

    The guys from Zinn bikes told me that both could be suitable. In any case, I'm not interested on the 47mm wide, but I just want to make sure that I can order the right components, as in Buenos Aires those are not immediately available, and most likely I will have to import them.

  32. #82
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    Hope Hubs + 280lb clydesdale: NOPE.

    I was in my lowest gear torquing up a steep short incline, and heard a 'crack' and felt my pedals backpedal a bit. Hm. Maybe it was a bit of a ghost shift. Kept going.

    Started my downhill, and all of the sudden my chain started gathering behind my crank and dropping down inside the chainstay. Really weird. Couldn't diagnose it, so bailed on the ride and took the bike into the shop.

    It turns out I'd literally shredded the internals. The axle and cassette was completely detached from the hub. That's what the crack was, evidently.

    I'd heard of this before, so I guess I ignored it at my peril. Note: from now on, no more Hobe rear hubs for me.

  33. #83
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    hey guys im a newb but im a clyde too im looking for someone in the philly area to build me a set of wheels any suggestions?

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billiam90 View Post
    hey guys im a newb but im a clyde too im looking for someone in the philly area to build me a set of wheels any suggestions?
    Buy a stand, nipple wrenches and a park meter and build your own with this link Wheelbuilding

    Easy as making chili.
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  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billiam90 View Post
    hey guys im a newb but im a clyde too im looking for someone in the philly area to build me a set of wheels any suggestions?
    If you're not up for building your own, I highly recommend the Bicycle Stable at 1420 Frankford Ave in Phila. They're super friendly and knowledgeable. They charge $35 for a wheel build (plus materials).

    I'm a clyde too and had them rebuild my Rhyno Lite/generic hub SS wheels, they've been true for over a year now.

  36. #86
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    well i got my rims and hubs in i picked up the new tubeless laserdisc wtb rims with the shimano 529 series hubs for about 160$ shipped! gping to my local bike shop and having the owner build them up tomorrow!

  37. #87
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    Yeap I have had one go and several that would create a ton of change slap if you stopped peddling in high gear. I didn't have this problem with ultegra hubs. But low flange of course. Anyone on Blunt/Blunt SL's? I am 250 and am looking for a urban rim I can take on tour. Stuck with 32 spokes for this set. Alfine IGH rear and generator hub in front. Hoping to build a wheel set I can use on tour on and off the road.

    Quote Originally Posted by wrongway benton View Post
    xt hubs come with lx free hubs don't ask me why. But I also have hod problems

  38. #88
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    Flows on hopes...been riding em for several years now doing lots of rough riding. Was 270lb until five months ago now 210...love these wheels wouldnt even consider something else. Imo these are the best quality/price build out there.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  39. #89
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    I surprised I haven't seen anyone mention E Thirteen hubs. Does any one have experience with these? They seem like they would lend themselves well to building a stout wheel set.

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedRiver View Post
    I surprised I haven't seen anyone mention E Thirteen hubs. Does any one have experience with these? They seem like they would lend themselves well to building a stout wheel set.
    Probably because it's an older thread. Optimus reports good things about his e13 LG1+ hubs: click.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

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