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  1. #1326
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    @Padyakero, The bushing size i order was 22.2x8mm (2set).
    I order from a guy in ebay Cyclepartsintl1.
    Rockshox Monarch RL, 6.5x1.5 (165x38) Fast black body,
    Rockshox SID XX solo air 120mm 29. Maxlite 15 Black. Motion control DNA Xloc.
    paid for both $779 + 15 each bushing.


    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    @Angel212, that's light enough for an MTB. I've ridden with guys hauling 13-15kg AMs and hardtails!!

    If you don't mind, could you share with me the exact measurements of your rear shock bushings? I'm thinking of ordering them online while waiting for my frame from Peter so I can ride it immediately

  2. #1327
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel212 View Post
    One question for everybody with this frame.
    I Have some play on the connection between chainstay and the seatstay, basically is a lateral play .
    I already remove and regrease all tight it properly but still got some play
    Those are exactly the gaps I was talking about when I took at look at the Scott frames last week. When I looked at a bunch of Sparks and Genius', I noticed they all had Derlin in there (sorry, didn't think to take a picture).

    Maybe we could sweet talk a Scott dealer to sell the green Derlin washers/bushings and see if they fit the IP-036?

    Another thought would be taking the hardware to ACE and seeing if they have any thin shims or plastic washers that could be used to fill that gap.

    All you would need is a thin shim to take up the lateral play (if any) in the joint.
    '14 Bronson C
    '12 Tallboy A
    '13 DB Mason 29er/650b+
    '13 SC Juliana 650b'd (wife's)

  3. #1328
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    And would some people that don't have the TwinLoc system mind posting up how these climb/ride?

    The Scott I test rode last week rode well, but I could tell it was a single pivot. I noticed some brake jack on the descents as well as shock movement when climbing.

    The thought of getting a 142 rear axle, 31.6 post and BSA bottom bracket (I hate PF!) keeps me coming back to this thread... I'm just not sold on the (relatively) older rear suspension design. (Sorry, don't mean to offend... just researching before purchasing).
    '14 Bronson C
    '12 Tallboy A
    '13 DB Mason 29er/650b+
    '13 SC Juliana 650b'd (wife's)

  4. #1329
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Those are exactly the gaps I was talking about when I took at look at the Scott frames last week. When I looked at a bunch of Sparks and Genius', I noticed they all had Derlin in there (sorry, didn't think to take a picture).

    Maybe we could sweet talk a Scott dealer to sell the green Derlin washers/bushings and see if they fit the IP-036?

    Another thought would be taking the hardware to ACE and seeing if they have any thin shims or plastic washers that could be used to fill that gap.

    All you would need is a thin shim to take up the lateral play (if any) in the joint.
    Mcmaster.com sells teflon (PTFE), Delrin, or other low friction washers, if we determine what sizes (ID, OD, thickness) needed, it would be easy to order from them.

  5. #1330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Mcmaster.com sells teflon (PTFE), Delrin, or other low friction washers, if we determine what sizes (ID, OD, thickness) needed, it would be easy to order from them.
    I can take it out tomorrow and measure the size i'll post picture and the information.
    Anyway I cant use still waiting for some parts.

  6. #1331
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    Here is the pictures guys.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_084641.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_084911.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_084921.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085121.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085447.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085948.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085409.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085520.jpg  


  7. #1332
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel212 View Post
    Here is the pictures guys.
    Angel212, nice effort with posting pictures, but it appears you are not sure what to measure. In your first picture you measured a 2mm gap at the pivot joint, however, in the second picture you can see the 2.5mm spacer on the bearing. Neither really shows how much, if any, actual gap is in the joint.

    As you tighten down the binding post, you should not be tightening the 2.5mm spacers against the bearing. You do not want to over tighten the pivot or crush the bearing which is why a binding post is used. Otherwise will either cause the pivot to not move freely or even worse, crack the carbon around the pivot mount. What we need to know is how much thicker the 2.5mm spacer can be without causing the binding post to over tighten and cause the pivot not to move freely.

    You measure the outside diameter (OD) of the spacer at 15mm, that is a good measurement. What is the inner diameter (ID) of the spacer? Most likely it's a little more than 8mm as I think that is the size of the binding post.

    You need to determine what size the new spacer should be, possibly 15mm x 8.25mm x 3mm? It's hard to say. Possibly every frame is a little different.

    I would like to see the difference in hole size in the frame to the OD of the bearing. Is there movement of the bearing in the mounting hole?

    After checking my frame to look a little more closely at where the gaps really are, I am finding the rear shock mount, near the seat tube, seems to have the most slop. If the slop is really on the shock mount, then I will need to think more about how to tighten things up, at least on my bike.

    These are very simple pivot designs so it doesn't surprise me that there would be some slop in the links. Even my Specialized Epic had a similar amount of slop in the suspension, although I am sure not all FS bikes have as much slop. I mean, if I paid $3,000 USD for a frame, it better not have any slop in the pivots.

  8. #1333
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    Whati see is the bearing go deep into the seatstay. So I think the spacer have .5mm inside the seatstay pushing the bearing on place and the other 2mm is the space we see at the chain/seat stay. I was think to get a washer 2mm wide with a ID 15mm and stick above the spacer .

    What u think?

  9. #1334
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    So you are thinking you want a spacer with a 15mm+ ID x 2mm thick? I am not sure it would make any difference other than filling the gap around the existing spacer. I would not limit any lateral movement.

  10. #1335
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    And would some people that don't have the TwinLoc system mind posting up how these climb/ride?
    Can anyone comment on riding this bike without a TwinLoc system? The 650b Genius I rode had a TwinLoc and I found myself using it, as bob was noticable. I was unable to ride a Spark. The reviews I'm reading on the Spark essentially suggest that the TwinLoc is necessary for efficient climbing.
    '14 Bronson C
    '12 Tallboy A
    '13 DB Mason 29er/650b+
    '13 SC Juliana 650b'd (wife's)

  11. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Can anyone comment on riding this bike without a TwinLoc system? The 650b Genius I rode had a TwinLoc and I found myself using it, as bob was noticable. I was unable to ride a Spark. The reviews I'm reading on the Spark essentially suggest that the TwinLoc is necessary for efficient climbing.
    I think efficiency of this FS bike is somewhat dependent on which shock you choose. I chose a Fox CTD BV so I would have three compression settings. Even in the Fox C (climb) mode, there is some small amount of shock compression, ~12mm of travel, which I really like. In that mode, the CTD shock still provides some small amount of compliance. I suppose C mode is the most efficient for climbing, however, T (trail) mode allows for very good pedaling efficiency while providing a smoother climb.

    I ride most of the time in T (trail) mode as it give you about 75% of travel and noticeably less shock compression than in D (Decsent) mode. T mode gives you good pedaling efficiency and good bump compliance. While D mode is all out full open for flying downhill. In D-mode there is more suspension movement while pedaling though.

    I do have a twin-loc system (Scott CTD Lever) on my bike and believe this is a great way to go. If I didn't have suspension lock-out, I might choose the FOX CTD that has a secondary tuning adjustment for the trail mode.

    Even the Roxshox Monarch XX is a great shock if you were to choose it.

    Overall I would say that shock technology has come a long way, whether you chose to add remote lockout or not, today's shocks help any bike have good pedaling efficiency.

  12. #1337
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    So my plan was to build a carbon chiner as a replacement to my alum 29er HT.......but found a carbon hardtailed Haro FLC SLX 2 x 10 grouped bike, new, for less than half price this week, so I jumped on it. I don't have a grand in it, shipped to my door- too cheap to pass up. .....and Haro offer a lifetime warranty on their carbon frames....I was shocked. However, the stuff on my alum HT can be swapped over to a FS chiner over the winter as a project after pedalling season is done.

  13. #1338
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    Quote Originally Posted by omnivore View Post
    However, the stuff on my alum HT can be swapped over to a FS chiner over the winter as a project after pedalling season is done.
    The pedaling season is never done!
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140225_113130_034-1024x577-.jpg
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  14. #1339
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    How are y'all riding the IP-036?

    What I mean, is that I'm afraid I'm going to break my AnthemX 29. I ride the hell out of a 100mm XC 29er and have done everything I can to make it a lightweight trail bike... 120 fork, offset shock bushing to get the HA to 69.5*, 2.3 Spesh Purgatory front tire, etc. Hell, I'd probably be running a RS Reverb dropper if my AX29 was 31.6 instead of 30.9... I can't help myself. If I make it to the top of a nasty CO Front Range climb, I'm going to open it up on the DH. I just enjoy ripping down too much to hold back because I'm on a lightweight XC bike.

    I'm also 187lbs out of the shower, well over 200 riding weight.

    I'm really thinking than an IP-036 is probably too much XC/Race and not enough Aggressive XC/trail for how I push my bikes.
    '14 Bronson C
    '12 Tallboy A
    '13 DB Mason 29er/650b+
    '13 SC Juliana 650b'd (wife's)

  15. #1340
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    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er

    Have any of these companies made a frame with 110mm - 120mm of travel yet?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #1341
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    How are y'all riding the IP-036?

    What I mean, is that I'm afraid I'm going to break my AnthemX 29. I ride the hell out of a 100mm XC 29er and have done everything I can to make it a lightweight trail bike... 120 fork, offset shock bushing to get the HA to 69.5*, 2.3 Spesh Purgatory front tire, etc. Hell, I'd probably be running a RS Reverb dropper if my AX29 was 31.6 instead of 30.9... I can't help myself. If I make it to the top of a nasty CO Front Range climb, I'm going to open it up on the DH. I just enjoy ripping down too much to hold back because I'm on a lightweight XC bike.

    I'm also 187lbs out of the shower, well over 200 riding weight.

    I'm really thinking than an IP-036 is probably too much XC/Race and not enough Aggressive XC/trail for how I push my bikes.
    Sounds pretty aggressive for a short travel XC bike. Maybe you need something with 120mm - 140mm of travel. It's difficult to have a bike that will stand up to tons of abuse, like you describe, and weigh in at a svelte 23-24 lbs, like an nicely built IP-036 does.

    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Have any of these companies made a frame with 110mm - 120mm of travel yet?
    If you read the specs on the IP-036, it already has 110mm of travel. More than that, IMO, then it's not a XC bike anymore. Not that long ago, XC bikes had 80mm of travel so it's obvious that the trend is toward more travel but there comes to a point of how much is enough? 4" of travel is quite a bit in my book, enough for rough XC and some decent trail riding.

  17. #1342
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Sounds pretty aggressive for a short travel XC bike. Maybe you need something with 120mm - 140mm of travel. It's difficult to have a bike that will stand up to tons of abuse, like you describe, and weigh in at a svelte 23-24 lbs, like an nicely built IP-036 does.
    Thanks for your response. I agree. Which is why I simply need to remind myself that I have an XC bike and AM bike. They can sometimes cross purposes, but I don't expect to huck my XC bike like my AM bike. I did 40 miles of riding this weekend and am aiming for more this coming weekend. I really like a light and efficient XC 29er for long rides.

    Did some measuring on my bikes this AM.

    My Motobecane townie (rigid 29er) has a S/O of around 31.75"
    My (soon to be sold) Giant AnthemX 29 (with a 120 fork) has a S/O of around 32-32.5"

    While the top tube is close to the boys, neither of these bikes are uncomfortable for me to ride.

    I think a large IP-036 would fit me nicely... just waiting to hear back from Peter on the frame and some hookless carbon rims.

    ProBike supply has a 2014 Fox FLOAT CTD-ADJ BOOST VALVE Kashima Factory Shock (free reducers) on sale for $405 with free bushings/reducers.

    From everything I read about the IP-036 (and Scott Spark), the CTD Adj with Boost Valve is a great riding upgrade for this frame.
    '14 Bronson C
    '12 Tallboy A
    '13 DB Mason 29er/650b+
    '13 SC Juliana 650b'd (wife's)

  18. #1343
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    Yep, that's pretty much my build as well. If you read some of my other posts, the ability to lock out the suspension is something I really like. At 5'-11", I've never had an issue with stand over height, although I'd be willing to live with a close stand over height if the frame rode well overall.

  19. #1344
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    Deleted... Already answered and I'm too wordy. Lol
    Last edited by 06HokieMTB; 07-15-2014 at 07:38 AM.
    '14 Bronson C
    '12 Tallboy A
    '13 DB Mason 29er/650b+
    '13 SC Juliana 650b'd (wife's)

  20. #1345
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    I'm not in the convo but for those people who are looking to get it cheap never go to their website. Check Alibaba.com and ask for sample (one way, usually cheapest way) second is just buy it from aliexpress.com
    Online Buy Wholesale full suspension frame from China full suspension frame Wholesalers |Aliexpress.com
    Becareful using Alibaba.com 29er Full Suspension Carbon Frame-29er Full Suspension Carbon Frame Manufacturers, Suppliers and Exporters on Alibaba.comBicycle Frame

    If you are using aliexpress.com they are like ebay full money back. However for Alibaba.com they might be scams, so to be safe if it's your first time, go to the link I have given, they are confirmed companies, I'll still recommend using paypal to pay them, or insure your payment.

    If asked I will make a full guide on buying cheaper products.


    Edit: if you are going to alibaba.com to buy anything make sure you check the "Gold Supplier" and "Onsite Check" they have to be both done, usually Gold members are none scams, since they pay around $500 a month to sell. good luck, and sorry for those who bought it at expensive prices lol.

  21. #1346
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    Hey guys quick question, what kind of headset are you using. I was using the original NECO headset that came with the frame, but last few days has been making a clicking noise every time i move the handlebar. I would like to replace with Canecreek head set but i dont know what model need the bike. Is IP36 model from Peter.
    Btw i just install a dropped post ks Eten, work great for only $118, at jensonusa.

  22. #1347
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlesrg View Post
    Wheelset[
    1,100.
    is that wheelset really 1,100 grams ?

  23. #1348
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    Hi, I have noticed that there is some play, with one of the bolts that holds the rear shock, i got a flyxii frame and the bolt is a M8 x40 with internal threads, any one in here that know where to purchase these bolts, prefereble black.

    Best regards

  24. #1349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel212 View Post
    Hey guys quick question, what kind of headset are you using. I was using the original NECO headset that came with the frame, but last few days has been making a clicking noise every time i move the handlebar. I would like to replace with Canecreek head set but i dont know what model need the bike. Is IP36 model from Peter.
    Btw i just install a dropped post ks Eten, work great for only $118, at jensonusa.
    You probably just need to replace the lower bearing

  25. #1350
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    Could anyone pls make a photo how does IP-036 142x12 rear hanger looks like?

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