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  1. #2101
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    This frame looks interesting too.Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-imust-29er.jpg

  2. #2102
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    Link or model name?
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  3. #2103
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    I saw it on Ebay. Direct sales bikes.

    EBay search - 222602331908 29ER bike frame
    EBay search - 132107206145 27.5 plus bike frame accepts 29" wheels
    Last edited by endo_alley; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:55 PM.

  4. #2104
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    Ican P8 build finally to where I think Im content (suspension wise and all)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20170826_092612.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20170826_092601.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20170826_092458.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20170826_092434.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20170826_092423.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20170826_092719.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20170826_092626.jpg  


  5. #2105
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Pierce View Post
    Ican P8 build finally to where I think Im content (suspension wise and all)
    Looks great. What do you think of the frame? Are you happy with the quality? Do you like the geometry? That frame claims to have a 68 degree hta. Does this feel at all steep? The seller claims this can be built as a 29er also. Is there room in the back for a 29" wheel?

  6. #2106
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    There is room for a 29" wheel. I'm running 27.5 x 2.8 (plus tire)

    The quality is amazing! It is as good or better than my US made Framed Marquette Carbon bike.

    It's stiff. It's rigid. And not at all flexy. There is a little lateral flex in the rear triangle if you grab the top and bottom of the wheel, but it's not noticeable when you are riding. Absolutely love the bike!

    My only complain is the BB height. It's only 324mm static, so gets pretty low when sagged. But that is the new trend so....

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  7. #2107
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    And no. It actually feels quite slack. I just measured mine with the 140mm fork and it's right at 67* head angle.

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  8. #2108
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    Thanks for the great feedback. This frame might even handle a 150mm fork. Raise the bb and slacken the hta, even if only slightly. I am looking to build a 29er. And this frame along with the other (Imust 29er) frame are contenders. This appears a little burlier than the 29er frame. But you can't tell till you build it up. How is this suspension for smoothing out the trail? And how is it for pedal bob when climbing?

  9. #2109
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo_alley View Post
    Thanks for the great feedback. This frame might even handle a 150mm fork. Raise the bb and slacken the hta, even if only slightly. I am looking to build a 29er. And this frame along with the other (Imust 29er) frame are contenders. This appears a little burlier than the 29er frame. But you can't tell till you build it up. How is this suspension for smoothing out the trail? And how is it for pedal bob when climbing?
    Send me over your email address. I'll send you the linkage curves I had another forum member draw up for me.

    It doesn't have much antisquat so it does peddle bob a bit. But the correct shock selection with a correct platform takes that right out of the bike. Its awesome at smoothing out the bumps (keep in mind I'm a 295lb rider so I have to run quite a bit of pressure)

    Shoot me over your email on a PM and I'll send the charts.

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  10. #2110
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    I've got quite much sideways play here on my cs 036. Got new bearings. Anything to do about it?


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  11. #2111
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    Quote Originally Posted by haakonbs View Post


    I've got quite much sideways play here on my cs 036. Got new bearings. Anything to do about it?


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    Yes, put the rear wheel in and through axle and tighen it down??

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  12. #2112
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    Still play


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  13. #2113
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    Quote Originally Posted by haakonbs View Post
    Still play


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    Play in what exactly? In the joint? Does the seat stay physically move inside of the chain stay? We need a little better description here.

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  14. #2114
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    https://youtu.be/dFuv4kAivKM


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  15. #2115
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    Appears to be missing a spacer or bushing. Are the bearings properly torqued? Something like 12nm I think. Show this link to Carbon Speed.

  16. #2116
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    I've might have used the wrong bearing? 2 spacers. 1 on each side


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  17. #2117
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    Used 8x19x6


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  18. #2118
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    How many miles on bike till it needed new bearings?

  19. #2119
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    These are brand new


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  20. #2120
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    Quote Originally Posted by haakonbs View Post
    These are brand new


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    Brand new bike has that much play. Hope there is a guarantee. You might be able to find some brass washers or spacers (maybe stainless steel) at a local hardware store if the seller doesn't warranty this. Probably the washers need to be small enough to catch the inner race of the bearing while not catching the outer race. Or better yet find a wider bearing.
    Last edited by endo_alley; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:47 PM.

  21. #2121
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    That's definitely not right. Why did you replace the bearing in the first place on a new bike? And what size was the one that you took out??

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  22. #2122
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    The frame is not new. Just the bearings. I changed because of play


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  23. #2123
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    Ah

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  24. #2124
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Pierce View Post
    Did you by chance measure length between shock mounting points at full droop and full compression (when arch hits seat tube)?
    I finally took the caliper to this, and it seems theres almost ZERO room for error on this frame. The fully compressed limit was 4.7 inches or 119.4mm. Thats exactly 45mm travel on a 165mm shock. Also, theres no way to fit a larger shock in there, as the linkage binds up at under 170mm eye to eye.

    Anyway, even if we were to find a trunnion mount shock that fits the FS27, you better be sure you never max out travel or you could potentially be sending the seat stay arch into the seat tube. Just one more reason the practical limit to this frame maxes out at 100mm travel.

    Also, in case anyone needs to know, the mounting tab spacing was 21.7 on the top and 49.6 on the bottom.

  25. #2125
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    Is there a consensus regarding unified rear triangle vs multi pivot?
    fs27, fm006, fm058 vs ican p8, p9

  26. #2126
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I finally took the caliper to this, and it seems theres almost ZERO room for error on this frame. The fully compressed limit was 4.7 inches or 119.4mm. Thats exactly 45mm travel on a 165mm shock. Also, theres no way to fit a larger shock in there, as the linkage binds up at under 170mm eye to eye.

    Anyway, even if we were to find a trunnion mount shock that fits the FS27, you better be sure you never max out travel or you could potentially be sending the seat stay arch into the seat tube. Just one more reason the practical limit to this frame maxes out at 100mm travel.

    Also, in case anyone needs to know, the mounting tab spacing was 21.7 on the top and 49.6 on the bottom.
    I'm going ahead with my build. After looking at extensive pictures I can see that the Scott version has a little more scooped out of the non drive side mount to make room for the air valve. And after looking at the fox shock compared to my rockshox I can see that the fox trunnion mounts are at least 5mm higher on the shock giving it significant more clearance.
    Here is my plan I will have to remove a little material I think to make the air valve clear. I'll do this with a dremel. I am not concerned with sacrificing strength as the mounts are much burlier then the Scott mounts. Typically over built Chinese style. They would rather over build and add weight then have it break and harm their rep imo.
    I will also have the mount eyelets enlarged from 8mm to 10mm this again ok because there are metal inserts there more then enough material to remove some and still have plenty of insert left.
    Dvo have told me they will make a Scott spark version of the Opal inline air shock I am sure I can get them to take a couple mm of travel out if it is indeed true that it has max 119.
    I personally measured the rear axle travel at 128mm from open to stopped against the seatpost. So we will see.
    It may be December before I can get my hands on an opal though it was just shown at eurobike 2017. DVO Introduces New Single Crown, Dual Crown and Air Shock - Mountain Bikes Feature Stories - Vital MTB
    Edit. Bryson Martin ceo/founder in a personal email told me towards the end of the year for Opal release though one site quoted April one quoted fall and another December. So I may be running a 165/38 for quite awhile.

  27. #2127
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    Please please please post pics. Would love to see how your modifications work out. I doubt I'm willing to take the same risks at my weight, but I'm very intrigued none the less.

  28. #2128
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Please please please post pics. Would love to see how your modifications work out. I doubt I'm willing to take the same risks at my weight, but I'm very intrigued none the less.
    I will post here and chiner don't worry. I can be a little more brazen about mods at 5'9 130lbs 😋

  29. #2129
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    Congrats KVD!

    Mr Manny. Ha no way, never! All these suspension layouts are copies of popular designs. The three you named in no order are vpp, single pivot rocker and Horst link. They all have pluses and minuses, which you should be able to learn about with some searching.

  30. #2130
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    Thanks PurpleMtnSlayer...will do some research

  31. #2131
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    So I'm looking at the cc db air inline for my stand in shock for fs027+ till the dvo opal drops.
    After doing some measurements I think it can clear sitting right side up air can on top.
    The things on the bottom that stick out will clear by couple mm and offset bushings will give even more.
    What I want to know does anyone see reason I can't mount it top up instead of inverted?

  32. #2132
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    Quote Originally Posted by haakonbs View Post
    https://youtu.be/dFuv4kAivKM


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    I lookes like it is the bering itself that moves, happend to my FM036. I used Loctite 641 on all berings before fitting. Solved the problem.

  33. #2133
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    Locktite where?


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  34. #2134
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    I received my enduro P9 (ican), but still waiting on parts to come in to build it up.

    AFAIK - this is the most up to date design from all the China Carbon websites. From my initially measurements of everything:

    1) Rear Triangle will have enough clearance to run 29" & Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5 WT. However with shock fully compressed, and seat dropped all the way down, it will most likely hit your seat. I will fully confirm this once the bike is build up.

    2) There's about 300mm of insertion length on the seat tube on a Large Frame. I am thinking of running a 175mm KS Integra dropper post fully inserted into the frame, but I still need to build it up to measure my height.

    3) There's absolutely no protection of any sort on the frame (downtube, chains stays)

  35. #2135
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    I'm thinking to move to a FS from HT one and i'm also thinking to get a Chinese one! This is what i think it looks interesting! Any other suggestion?(looking for a Non boost, XC racing 100mm frame)
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-chiner.jpg

  36. #2136
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloholic View Post
    I'm thinking to move to a FS from HT one and i'm also thinking to get a Chinese one! This is what i think it looks interesting! Any other suggestion?(looking for a Non boost, XC racing 100mm frame)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That looks like the CS FS29, right? I have the 27-plus boost version of that, the FS27, and its been fantastic. Ive never been more comfortable on a bike in my life, and the bike climbs way better than I expected it to. Supposedly there are more efficient FS XC racers out there, but if youre looking for something with a little more trail oriented geometry without the weight or losing efficiency, this is about as good as it gets in, IMO.

  37. #2137
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    I didnt mention this is not a XC geometry! Actually this is why i posted here! So any other more XC competion frame suggestion?!

  38. #2138
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloholic View Post
    I didnt mention this is not a XC geometry! Actually this is why i posted here! So any other more XC competion frame suggestion?!
    Actually by today's standards that bike is VERY much XC related geometry....

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  39. #2139
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    This also looks nice!!
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-chiner2.jpg

  40. #2140
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Pierce View Post
    Actually by today's standards that bike is VERY much XC related geometry....
    I have to agree here. Its geometry is modeled after a bike with at least two olympic gold medals to its name. XC racing seems to be getting a bit more aggressive and chunky these days. This is a bike that will keep up with that. However if he needs something a with more classic geometry to dodge trees, it may not be the best suited frame.

  41. #2141
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    Ok, so the geometry is similar to scott's spark!! If it works for nino it probably work for me too LOL.

  42. #2142
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I have to agree here. Its geometry is modeled after a bike with at least two olympic gold medals to its name. XC racing seems to be getting a bit more aggressive and chunky these days. This is a bike that will keep up with that. However if he needs something a with more classic geometry to dodge trees, it may not be the best suited frame.
    I ride the P8 which currently sits at about a 66.5* head angle with the 140 fork and we have some ridiculously tight and twisty single track full of trees. I have no issues. So this bike SHOULD rip through tech.

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  43. #2143
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    Also i found a 2015 cube ams 100 in a very good price(almost the same as chinese) in bike-discount! Whats your suggestion?!

  44. #2144
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Pierce View Post
    I ride the P8 which currently sits at about a 66.5* head angle with the 140 fork and we have some ridiculously tight and twisty single track full of trees. I have no issues. So this bike SHOULD rip through tech.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
    I am still waiting for my Nextie rear wheel before my P8 build is finally done. Looking forward to it.

  45. #2145
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  46. #2146
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloholic View Post
    no, but as a general manufacturer Hong Fu seems to have a very good reputation.

  47. #2147
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    Thanks! Is there a direct link of their products?

  48. #2148
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloholic View Post
    Thanks! Is there a direct link of their products?
    Shenzhen Hongfu Sports Equipment Co., Ltd.

    website is pretty generic at best. But feel free to contact them.

    I will say from experience that Peter @ XMcarbonspeed is by far the best for communication. If you need that, and tech support its probably best to get a bike from XMcarbonspeed. If you are fairly knowledgeable and dont need tech advise or support then you can venture out a bit.

  49. #2149
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    Inside the bering cups, you glue the bering inside its cup. Then it will not move under pressure. Loctite 641 is made for this and it is possible to press out the berins again when worn out.

  50. #2150
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    Quote Originally Posted by eriklanden View Post
    Inside the bering cups, you glue the bering inside its cup. Then it will not move under pressure. Loctite 641 is made for this and it is possible to press out the berins again when worn out.
    I find that much of the movement is in the oblong (pear shaped) nuts that the bearing screws fasten to. These should be epoxied in place.

  51. #2151
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Pierce View Post
    Shenzhen Hongfu Sports Equipment Co., Ltd.

    website is pretty generic at best. But feel free to contact them.

    I will say from experience that Peter @ XMcarbonspeed is by far the best for communication. If you need that, and tech support its probably best to get a bike from XMcarbonspeed. If you are fairly knowledgeable and dont need tech advise or support then you can venture out a bit.
    Nancy at HongFu has been excellent to work with. Quick reply's and she answered all my questions. I have the FM058 on order. Hoping to receive it in early Oct.

  52. #2152
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    Quote Originally Posted by babarnicle View Post
    Nancy at HongFu has been excellent to work with. Quick reply's and she answered all my questions. I have the FM058 on order. Hoping to receive it in early Oct.
    Very nice!!

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  53. #2153
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    These frames typically have an integrated headset. Is it best to press in the headset using grease, or using a soft thread locker such as Locktite green?

  54. #2154
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo_alley View Post
    These frames typically have an integrated headset. Is it best to press in the headset using grease, or using a soft thread locker such as Locktite green?
    neither. Its a carbon frame so no grease. No locktite needed either. Simply place the race on the fork, place the lower bearing on, install the fork through the headset (lower bearing will center itself in the lower integrated cup) install top bearing, install spacer, install top cap, stem and top cap. Tighten top cap to remove any play in the bearings/headtube then torque down the stem.

  55. #2155
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo_alley View Post
    These frames typically have an integrated headset. Is it best to press in the headset using grease, or using a soft thread locker such as Locktite green?
    Integrated headsets are loose bearings that sit in the molded cups of the head tube and yes they need grease lots of it.
    Press in cups need grease too but just a light coat. If you press it in dry it will require much more force and be more prone to creaking.

    The only place I have ever used locktight on carbon is press fit BB cups.

  56. #2156
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    Integrated headsets are loose bearings that sit in the molded cups of the head tube and yes they need grease lots of it.
    Press in cups need grease too but just a light coat. If you press it in dry it will require much more force and be more prone to creaking.

    The only place I have ever used locktight on carbon is press fit BB cups.
    Im willing to bet that the cup in this carbon bike will not be tight enough to need grease. I dont recommend grease ANYWHERE on a carbon bike that is bare carbon. I almost guarantee you that he can press the bearings in by hand with no issue....

  57. #2157
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    If we are talking about an integrated headset, then you don't press anything. The bearing sit in cups molded into the frame. This bearing will move slightly even with a properly torque top cap. You need grease and lots of it or will creak.

  58. #2158
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    If we are talking about an integrated headset, then you don't press anything. The bearing sit in cups molded into the frame. This bearing will move slightly even with a properly torque top cap. You need grease and lots of it or will creak.
    OK, we will just agree to disagree. This is my second carbon bike and I have yet to have a single headset creak. And I have ZERO play in the headset and/or bearings. None once properly tightened with the top cap.

  59. #2159
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    This bearing will move slightly even with a properly torque top cap.
    Uh, no.
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

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  61. #2161
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    like I said, personal experience on two different carbon bikes with carbon formed integrated headsets has not provided a single creak for me. Im not greasing them. No need.

    To each their own though....

  62. #2162
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    Quote Originally Posted by babarnicle View Post
    Nancy at HongFu has been excellent to work with. Quick reply's and she answered all my questions. I have the FM058 on order. Hoping to receive it in early Oct.
    Great! What shock are you going to put? 165 and 190mm are both for XC with 100mm travel or am i wrong?

  63. #2163
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Pierce View Post
    OK, we will just agree to disagree. This is my second carbon bike and I have yet to have a single headset creak. And I have ZERO play in the headset and/or bearings. None once properly tightened with the top cap.
    I guess I will install the headset without any more grease than what comes on it from the factory. As long as it doesn't creak then all is well. Having never dealt with an integrated headset I don't necessarily trust it to seat firm enough not to creak. But I will hope for the best. If it creaks in the future I will address that problem at the time.

  64. #2164
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo_alley View Post
    I guess I will install the headset without any more grease than what comes on it from the factory. As long as it doesn't creak then all is well. Having never dealt with an integrated headset I don't necessarily trust it to seat firm enough not to creak. But I will hope for the best. If it creaks in the future I will address that problem at the time.
    if it creaks, it takes all of 10 minutes to disassemble and reassemble with grease if needed.

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    I grease mine. Various reasons. Here is part of discussion from other forum. Do some research and decide for yourself though.

    uote:
    Originally Posted by JonD View Post
    Hi All,
    I'm servicing my 9 month old Ridgeback Flight 02, which has integrated cartridge races top and bottom of the headtube. They had a reasonable coating of grease on them when I took them out, but now I'm refitting them I am not sure whether I should grease everything.

    The headtube doesn't appear to have any cups in it, just a 45 degree chamfer machined into the aluminium wall at the top, and a 45 degree chamfer on top of the steerer.

    Having read this article http://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/Int2...sExplained.pdf
    it reminded me of something similar I had read about the importance of *not* greasing bearing seats in other applications, the theory being that you want the race to be the part that moves, not the shell in its seat. Plus if the shell can move around easily on the grease, it will exacerbate the wear described in the article, especially if the grease picks up dirt etc. The article was rather scary regarding irreparably wearing out the seat!

    But, equally I don't want to find the shell becomes stuck in the headtube the next time I service it.

    So, what's the wisdom on grease/anti-seize for installing bearings (not inside the races themselves, just the fit to the frame/tube)? Grease the seats lightly or not, and should there be any grease on the steerer tube where there bearing touches it?

    Many thanks!
    Jon
    Grease or anti seize, your choice, the outsides of the bearings before inserting them into the seats. I also do the same to the crown race. Done so for 40+ years. Andy- whose headsets don't creak.
    Andrew R Stewart is offline Reply With Quote
    Old 12-30-14, 08:58 PM #6


    +1 I also grease both the exterior of the cartridges and seats of headsets. It prevents both corrosion and noise and the seats have never worn.
    HillRider is offline Reply With Quote
    Old 12-30-14, 09:23 PM #7

    I use a stiff anti-seize grease. This stuff is the consistency of peanut butter and is not suited as a ball bearing grease.

    The grease serves two purposes.

    1- it's a weather barrier and prevents water wicking between the two parts and making mischief.
    2- it acts as a bedding compound, allowing the bearing find it's best place and prevents creaking later on.

    There's plenty of latitude here, and just about anything except a dry fit will work. Even dry fits work, but if they creak, you'll go back to bedding the bearing in something.

    FBinNY is offline Reply With Quote
    Old 12-31-14, 02:58 AM #8

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by
    Done so for 40+ years. Andy- whose headsets don't creak.
    Thanks for all the great advice guys. I think you've convinced me to stick with some sort of grease/anti-seize. On Andy's point though I would say that 40 year old headsets won't have these cup-less integrated bearing seats which are cut into the actual aluminium tubing. I'm now just paranoid that if I wear the seat in the head tube the frame will be junk
    Just hoping someone can allay my fears!

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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas View Post
    I grease mine. Various reasons. Here is part of discussion from other forum. Do some research and decide for yourself though.

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by JonD View Post
    I'm now just paranoid that if I wear the seat in the head tube the frame will be junk
    Just hoping someone can allay my fears!

    If the integrated machining of the frame wears out over the years, then I am sure locktite will be the necessary fix.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloholic View Post
    Great! What shock are you going to put? 165 and 190mm are both for XC with 100mm travel or am i wrong?
    I'll do the 165 shock which is a very common size. Probably monarch xx with the single remote to lock our front and rear at the same time. I'm building this up for an XC and marathon set up.

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    From which dealer you bought it?

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    Does anyone know how long it takes to get a frame from China to the states? Shipping time? The carrier is EMS???

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    Quote Originally Posted by babarnicle View Post
    Does anyone know how long it takes to get a frame from China to the states? Shipping time? The carrier is EMS???
    mine took about 10 days

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