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  1. #651
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    Quick question on measurements for these bikes.

    I've put my measurements into the Competitive Cyclist web site and came back with a virtual top tube recommendation of 612-622. Is that measurement A on the Flyxi web site? FLYXI
    I'm assuming that a 19" frame would be correct then?

  2. #652
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    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by hidperf View Post
    Quick question on measurements for these bikes.

    I've put my measurements into the Competitive Cyclist web site and came back with a virtual top tube recommendation of 612-622. Is that measurement A on the Flyxi web site? FLYXI
    I'm assuming that a 19" frame would be correct then?
    Yep, that's the one

  3. #653
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    Quote Originally Posted by two-one View Post
    I finally ordered one of these frames... 19" in 3k matte with BB30 bottom bracket.
    I'm planning to build it with a Manitou Radium shock that I bought second hand for peanuts.
    Really looking forward to tuning the rear suspension to my liking, so I can ride "les Chemins du Soleil" in comfort
    Is the BB30 standard on this frame? I didn't see any option when ordering on their site for size, finish, or bottom bracket. Or do you place the order and then they contact you about options?

  4. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by hidperf View Post
    Is the BB30 standard on this frame? I didn't see any option when ordering on their site for size, finish, or bottom bracket. Or do you place the order and then they contact you about options?
    I just asked... we'll see whether they come through, I'm still waiting for the package.

  5. #655
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    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by hidperf View Post
    Is the BB30 standard on this frame? I didn't see any option when ordering on their site for size, finish, or bottom bracket. Or do you place the order and then they contact you about options?
    They can do threaded or BB30

    I contacted flyxii prior to ordering, and also noted the frame requirements in the comments section of the order

  6. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbo83 View Post
    They can do threaded or BB30

    I contacted flyxii prior to ordering, and also noted the frame requirements in the comments section of the order
    I accidentally placed an order with them while trying to find out if they had a spot in their order form to choose options. But they did get back to me today about the bottom bracket options.

    So, now I need to decide on some things. Most important would be bottom bracket. BSA looks much easier to install over BB30, but BB30 is supposed to be stronger I guess? I have a press and I've also seen where people have used threaded rod and washers to install the BB30 bearings.

    I know the subject has been covered a million times so I don't expect a huge debate, but is one better for MTB builds over the other? I have FSA Mega Exo on my road bike and it seems to work just fine. Are cranks pretty much available in both types? I plan on using X0 or one of the FSA options on this build.
    Last edited by hidperf; 03-07-2013 at 10:50 AM.

  7. #657
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    Another question on these frames and build ups.

    Have any of you ran the Monarch XX? Even if it wasn't on this particular frame, what was your impression of it?

  8. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by two-one View Post
    I ordered it from Flyxii.com, because they were simply the cheapest... I hope they come through for me
    Well they are out of the bb30 19" frame at the time. Although he mentioned gloss 3k. And I'm not set on gloss or 3k. I think I'll see if they have any others in stock, otherwise it will be 50 days before its available.

  9. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    On the rear I'm running a DT Swiss 240 hub 135x10 with a through-bolt conversion, had to do it to fit the XD cassette for XX1, works fine.
    I'm assuming you're using the DT Swiss RWS 10mm thought-bolt conversion? Is there anything special or any modifications needed to doing this or do you just buy the RWS conversion, slide it through, and tighten it down?

  10. #660
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    Quote Originally Posted by hidperf View Post
    I'm assuming you're using the DT Swiss RWS 10mm thought-bolt conversion? Is there anything special or any modifications needed to doing this or do you just buy the RWS conversion, slide it through, and tighten it down?
    I assume you aren't talking about the XX1 mod as well, in which case yes that's pretty much what I remember doing.

    Well you need to remove the QR caps from the hub first. No tools needed but the Park Tool Axle vise holder comes very handy - DT Swiss also bundles it into their 240s hub maintenance toolkit.

    Park Tool Co. Ľ AV-1 : Axle Vise : Hub & Axles

    EDIT: oh yeah, make sure to buy the actual Axle as well, I got mine from DT Swiss too.

  11. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    I assume you aren't talking about the XX1 mod as well, in which case yes that's pretty much what I remember doing.

    Well you need to remove the QR caps from the hub first. No tools needed but the Park Tool Axle vise holder comes very handy - DT Swiss also bundles it into their 240s hub maintenance toolkit.

    Park Tool Co. Ľ AV-1 : Axle Vise : Hub & Axles

    EDIT: oh yeah, make sure to buy the actual Axle as well, I got mine from DT Swiss too.
    Thanks for the reply.

    So if i already have 15mm thru-axle hubs, all I should need is the RWS conversion?

  12. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by hidperf View Post
    Thanks for the reply.

    So if i already have 15mm thru-axle hubs, all I should need is the RWS conversion?
    Sounds right but grab the PDF from here and make 100% sure: DT Swiss - Conversion kits

  13. #663
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    I'm going to run SRAM X0 group on this and I'm having trouble figuring out which front derailleur I need to buy.

    2x10
    24/38 with bash guard

    From what I've read on here, I need a low direct mount, bottom pull. Possibly the S3 type? But will running the 2x10 with bash guard have any bearing on the derailleur?

    S1 = 42.7mm 2-bolt
    S3 = 22.1mm 2-bolt

    The only drawing I could find showed 22.7mm so I'm guessing S3 is close enough. So with the S3, low direct mount, bottom pull, 14T capacity I would need SRAM part number 00.7615.177.010 according to BTI-usa.com
    Sound right? If not, please explain why so I know what I figured wrong.

  14. #664
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    Quote Originally Posted by hidperf View Post
    I'm going to run SRAM X0 group on this and I'm having trouble figuring out which front derailleur I need to buy.

    2x10
    24/38 with bash guard

    From what I've read on here, I need a low direct mount, bottom pull. Possibly the S3 type? But will running the 2x10 with bash guard have any bearing on the derailleur?

    S1 = 42.7mm 2-bolt
    S3 = 22.1mm 2-bolt

    The only drawing I could find showed 22.7mm so I'm guessing S3 is close enough. So with the S3, low direct mount, bottom pull, 14T capacity I would need SRAM part number 00.7615.177.010 according to BTI-usa.com
    Sound right? If not, please explain why so I know what I figured wrong.
    It's OK!

  15. #665
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    .................................................. ...
    Last edited by Dibbs_; 03-15-2013 at 02:09 AM. Reason: strangely my quote from another thread ended up here!!!!!!!!!!!

  16. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoAl View Post
    It's OK!
    Awesome. Thanks.

    I just got my tracking number today. Everything except tires and tubeless materials has been ordered. It's gonna be like Christmas for the next month around here.

  17. #667
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    installed 36T xx1 ring, and swapped the formula rotors for ice techs XTR (203mm on front) = whoa!

  18. #668
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    Just curious since I haven't seen it mentioned in here.

    Has anyone tried the carbon stems, seat post, bottle cages, or handlebars from flxyii or anyone else?

    I picked up all of the above while I placed the order. Can't imagine I'm the only one though.

  19. #669
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    Re: Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er

    Only the bottle cage as the the stems are heavy, bars are too thin and I use a dropper post.

  20. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by hidperf View Post
    Just curious since I haven't seen it mentioned in here.

    Has anyone tried the carbon stems, seat post, bottle cages, or handlebars from flxyii or anyone else?

    I picked up all of the above while I placed the order. Can't imagine I'm the only one though.
    i was buying from baixiang bike, ordered carbon saddle and bottle cage only.

    saddle did not fit my cobalt11 seatpost (had the road rectangular tubes, and i could not get the adapter for the cobalt11 anywhere), also looked really hard on the ass - so i ordered tioga spyder saddle from crc and am very happy with it.

    the bottle cage i did not use because for this frame a side-loading bottle cage is much better fit, so i got a carbon one from crc as well ("sidekick").

    oh yeah i also ordered carbon bars but max width is 660, which i realized is funny, and went with cobalt 11 780(?) i think. the max one.

    but in general i think except the points above, the chinese stuff is top quality... and if i went for minimal weight, i'd have probably have look for the combined stem/bar carbon single-mold component they also sell there somewhere.

  21. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwsurfbum View Post
    Only the bottle cage as the the stems are heavy, bars are too thin and I use a dropper post.
    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    i was buying from baixiang bike, ordered carbon saddle and bottle cage only.

    saddle did not fit my cobalt11 seatpost (had the road rectangular tubes, and i could not get the adapter for the cobalt11 anywhere), also looked really hard on the ass - so i ordered tioga spyder saddle from crc and am very happy with it.

    the bottle cage i did not use because for this frame a side-loading bottle cage is much better fit, so i got a carbon one from crc as well ("sidekick").

    oh yeah i also ordered carbon bars but max width is 660, which i realized is funny, and went with cobalt 11 780(?) i think. the max one.

    but in general i think except the points above, the chinese stuff is top quality... and if i went for minimal weight, i'd have probably have look for the combined stem/bar carbon single-mold component they also sell there somewhere.
    I'm hoping they will be as good in quality as these frames appear to be. The stem I ordered was the FLX-ST-005 in 100mm which, in the picture, actually has a 3T end on it. So I'm curious if they actually make the parts for 3T or just stole it.

    I also ordered their FLX-HB-020 riser bars in 660mm, their FLX-HB-021 flat bars in 620mm, their FLX-SP-006 seat post, and 4 of their FLX-CG-028 side loader bottle cages. I bought 4 because three of my friends just bought Specialized Epic 29ers and knew that the regular top loading cages didn't work with them.

    As of Friday, my frame and components are in customs in San Fransisco. I have no idea when they're get to St. Louis though. Other parts have started rolling in already. I'll post some pictures and weights when I get time. Still no word on my wheels yet, but I don't expect them to ship for another week maybe.

  22. #672
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    8 days from the time I got my tracking number until it showed up in my hands today.

    I'd say that's pretty good.

  23. #673
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    Look forward to seeing pictures.

  24. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Look forward to seeing pictures.
    I'll put some up as soon as I can. In the middle of switching careers right now and things are a little hectic.

    If anyone wants to check out my blog of the build, it's here. Full suspension, open-mold, Chinese carbon fiber 29er build | Join me on my first bike build

  25. #675
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    As of now, I have everything on it's way that I can work with until I get the wheels. I'm trying to decide on which tires I should get. I live in the midwest (Missouri) and our trails are anything from rocks/roots, to gravel, to leave everywhere. I try to avoid riding in mud if at all possible. I was thinking of the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 up front and the 2.25 in the rear. I've also read a few people recommend other Maxxis tires in the rear.

    I don't race anyone but myself and my buddies, for bragging rights, always off-road, fire roads, etc. No around town use.

    If it makes any difference on the recommendation, we're also doing the San Juan Hut tour in July, from Durango to Moab, but I'm sure the terrain is completely different out there than in Missouri.

  26. #676
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    hidpert, the blog looks interesting, I will give it a read. Lots of opinions on tires, go over to the 29er components forum and check out some of those discussions.

    Anyone else building a FS Chinese Carbon 29er? I'm getting ready to order my frame and am having a tough time making up my mind between FS and HT.

  27. #677
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    hidperf-nice blog. It was a good read, why did you go with such high end/expensive components for your 1st mtb build?
    epic_dude- your choice mainly depends on the terrain you ride and the level of comfort that you want. If you ride rough terrain or want more comfort, go with fs. If you ride smooth trails or don't care about the trails beating you up, go with the hardtail because of the weight savings
    my carbon footprint has cleats

  28. #678
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    hidpert, the blog looks interesting, I will give it a read. Lots of opinions on tires, go over to the 29er components forum and check out some of those discussions.
    Yeah, it's impossible to find any really solid choices on tires because they're probably the biggest variable on the bike when it comes to where you're located, what type of terrain you ride, how aggressive you ride, etc. I've read everything I could on this forum and others about tires, and for every paragraph I read, I found a different suggestion on what people run and why.
    It's probably just going to be a trial and error thing on this build.

    Quote Originally Posted by xc biker View Post
    hidperf-nice blog. It was a good read, why did you go with such high end/expensive components for your 1st mtb build?
    Well, originally I was going to just buy a Specialized Epic Comp 29er but I couldn't justify the price vs. components that came with it. And I really wanted the Epic Expert, which was about twice the price if I remember correctly.

    I've wanted to build one of these Chinese carbon bikes ever since I started reading about them in the road bike forums; I just got a road bike last year and that bug bit me hard. Once my buddies and I started riding regularly and getting in shape last year for the Durango to Moad ride coming up, I realized my old MTB had to be replace and I just felt I could equip a bike with higher end components for less than or equal too what I would have spent on a Carbon Comp 29er.

    So after reading though this thread a couple times and some serious price shopping and spreadsheets full of info, I decided to build a MTB instead of a road bike. My roadie is only a year old and in great shape still, but my MTB is from 1999 and trashed.

    Out of the group of five guys who I ride with, two bought Epic Comps, one bought a Comp Carbon, one hasn't bought yet, and I'm building mine. Minus the tires and tubeless stuff, I've got less than the price of the Comp Carbon invested in my build. And the Comp Carbon owner put different tires on his and a used X0 crankset he picked up from a buddy who went XX1, so I think I'll still come in under his total investment.

    I just can't wait until it all gets here so I can ride it!

    Edit: I just put a ton of pictures up in an album on here if anyone wants to view them. Eventually I'll put together a post on here about the build.

  29. #679
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    Started the assembly tonight but didn't get very far. Took all the pivots apart and greased them and it moves WAY better now, as expected. Put the BB30 bearings in and the non-drive side crank arm, then installed the front derailleur before putting the drive side arm on. As I feared, the front derailleur I bought won't work with the crankset I bought. I knew that bash guard would be a problem.

    So now I have no idea what X0 front derailleur I need.

    Do I need one for a 3 chainring setup so it will clear the bash guard?

    The crankset I have is a 00.6115.423.170
    The front derailleur I have is 00.7615.177.010, which won't work.

  30. #680
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    Rode a Scott Spark 950 today which is the bike the FS Chiner is modeled after. The bike was just a bit too plush for me, I felt as though I was loosing too much of my effort just pedaling on flat pavement. We even pumped the shock up to 150psi. I'm sure if I locked out the rear shock it would have been more to my liking. Guess I'm not too fond of the bit bob you get on a FS. The bike did well over bumps and small drops though and I'm sure it would be much easier on my back and knees.

    I also tried the Scott Scale 930 Carbon, which is like the FM056 hard tail. This bike felt much better to me, no effort lost and it rode over bumps nicely. I just felt more in the bike than on the bike. However I wasn't crazy about the SRAM shifters though, I favor the Shimano style, although I also like the idea of the Grip shifters.

    Looks like I'll continue with my build plan using the IP-057 hard tail frame, although a good used Specialized Epic is not entirely out of the question for me, I like the idea of having the best of both worlds.

  31. #681
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    @hidperf - I run Schwalbe Furious Freds in tubeless, lately on the softer side, 18-19 psi rear, sufficient grip on anything non-mud, and gloriously absent rolling resistance, and lack of sound on asphalt. Can't imagine putting tractor tires on this mustang anymore.

    @Epic_Dude - if this bike was modeled after anything, then it's more bikes, not just the Scott Spark. The Spark has completely different downtube/headtube/front tire clearance, and ones that I like a lot less. There is a designer of this frame out there somewhere, but they probably think it's better for the business if all the licensees of that open mold say they designed it themselves. Just my opinion anyway.

  32. #682
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    Hi there, here's mine that I purcahsed from Flyxii.
    It arrived very quickly (I'm in Australia) and was well packed. I had to pull it apart to see what the pivots and stuff were like, as a former Titus owner I wasn't going to even bother building it if the pivots were not aligned like a Titus. Anyway I was surprised that all of the pivots were ball bearings and aligned very well. The only adjustment I made was grease and some .9mm spacers in the lower main pivot where the chainstay mount was rubbing on the seatpost pivot. This fixed it up, smooth as butter.
    It's been built with an X0 2x10 groupset except for the front der which is an XTR, my direct mount Sram X0 wouldn't fit, different bolt holes. Other components are T40 carbon bars, Monarch XX shock, SID RT3 forks and it's got mismatched wheels while I wait for my 135x10 hub kit for my TWE carbons. It weighs in a just over 10kg's so I'm pretty happy with that.


    The good
    It's super stiff and rides well, I think I may have to change from mid to high tune on the Monarch because it bobs pretty hard with 215psi in the shock with the lockout off. Fairly compliant over the rough stuff, but it's not a plush ride at all. Having said that the shock has less than 50km on it, so it certainly isn't broken in.

    The bad
    The cable routing is a dog's breakfast, and the location for the remote to go through the frame doesn't work at all with the Monarch XX. I don't like the rear mech cable being clamped under the down tube and looped under the BB, so I'm going to change that when I can find the cable clamps I'm looking for.
    I found my 17.5 a bit small, I'm 5'10 with short legs but it's smaller than my Paragon by a fair margin.
    I don't love the rear brake config, but it doesn't brake jack at all so I can live with that, it's just a hassle to take the rear wheel on and off without scratching the carbon with the rotor.
    Doesn't come painted, but that's not really bad I suppose.
    I also purchased a 350mm carbon seatpost from Flyxii, it was sh!t. Too short, flexy and a very poor seat clamp. I'll just order another Thomson from CRC. Needs a 400mm seat post minimum.

  33. #683
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    How much did your build up cost? trying to determine if these work out any cheaper than buying a good secondhand low km bike

  34. #684
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    @Komdotkom - nice writeup. I run Fox CTD front and rear, normally both in the trail setting, normal sag, but with a lot more relaxed (more damped) rebound, more on the plushy/limo side, but when on the trail setting, the bike never bobs when pushing in the sitting position. In standing position it bobs a bit, but I'm finding myself never riding in standing position anymore, unlike when I was a lot younger. I guess I learned to conserve my energy. The point is that in the descend setting (fully open) I don't really feel the trail, it just glides over it.

    And yeah for you height I guess I'd go with the 19" frame, although I see you compensate with higher and back-bent seatpost and a somewhat longer stem. On the other hand, I'm guessing the smaller frame makes the bike a bit more nimble.

    Nice bike!

  35. #685
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    Guys, just a question. The central rear suspension component which joins the seat/chain-stays with the rear shock - I think the proper name for it is the "control link" - the hole for the shock is supposed to be 8mm in diameter, but when measured, it has about 8.3mm. The result of that is that when I pick the bike up, it makes a clack sound as the shock bolt moves in that hole up and down. Are any of you experiencing that as well?

    It doesn't matter when you ride since the shock is always compressed (so the 8mm bolt does not move in the 8.3mm hole) and/or if you jump there's plenty of other noise around, but it's still something that slightly bothers me on this bike.

    There initially also were other problems with this control link component, but I asked the seller for a replacement which I received and it's pretty good, except the shock bolt hole is still drilled way too generously. So I'm guessing yours is probably the same.

  36. #686
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    Yeah I've got the same problem with the control link ypocat. I initially thought it was the RWC needle bearings on the shock, but it's not.
    I'm going to make a hardened steel sleeve, and re drill the link to 10mm to accommodate a 1mm wall thickness.
    With regard to the sizing, I've got a 19" Gary Fisher that's too big for me so going by the sizing this should be very close to a 17.5 Trek/Fisher. Some of the problem was the seat adjustment, I guess I'll just keep playing with the setup until it feels right.
    Cost, well the frame was $700 and the shock was $300. I had everything else, but an XO groupset is about $1,000, $600 for the forks and you can get reasonable wheels for $400.

  37. #687
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    @Komdotkom - thanks man, good to see it confirmed it's not an isolated problem that only I have. Also interesting thinking to solve it by drilling to be able to insert the sleeve. Some time ago I tried to make a sleeve from an aluminum can, but this material is both too thick (0.1mm needed, without drilling) and way too soft. So my next plan was to drill the control-link to 9mm and get a larger shock adapter, but I just discovered they only make 8mm (Bike24 - Fox Racing Shox Hardware Kit (Bushings) 8mm), however the core is aluminum, so it may be drillable to 9mm as well, so I guess I will try that first.

    I guess this problem can be also somewhat alleviated by tightening this problematic joint to a higher degree, so that the bolt stops flying in the hole freely, but I don't like this kind of solutions at all - it's the shock itself which should be damping the suspension, not the shock bolt/joint.

  38. #688
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    You should be able to buy a 10mm OD sleeve from a bearing wholesaler fairly cheaply then bore the centre out with a lathe. Then just epoxy it in with something like West Systems epoxy or even shrink fit it then ream it in situ for a nice tight fit.
    I ordered my new set post today, got a 410mm Thomson Elite. It's going to add another 30g, but more than worth it for the piece of mind. Every bike I own has a Thomson post, not the lightest but certainly the most reliable.
    I've got another ride booked in for tomorrow night, I should be able to sort out most of the setup issues then.

  39. #689
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donna591 View Post
    Will replacement bearings be available? Pretty important.
    I took apart the linkage on my frame, and also noticed the use of ordinary steelcapped bearings, so I'll be changing them for Enduro MAX 2RS bearings in the near future... until that time a layer of grease will have to suffice. That, and as little cleaning as possible to avoid water contamination
    I noticed the following bearings: 4x 6901 (main triangle connecting pivots), and 4x689 (pivots connecting the seatstays).

    And @Komdotkom and @ypocat, the knocking between the shock and "control" link... that shouldn't be possible, even with an oversized 8mm hole. That's because the bolt should not carry the forces itself, but it should tighten the shock adapter against the carbon controllink, and the friction where those two touch should be able to convey the forces, the bolt only holds everything together, is it tightened properly? Or maybe the bolt bottoms out? Then filing the bolt-rod a little should help it, or maybe place a spacer below the bolt.

  40. #690
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowseruni View Post
    How much did your build up cost? trying to determine if these work out any cheaper than buying a good secondhand low km bike
    If you're comparing a pre-owned bike to building a new from scratch, it's no comparison. The pre-owned is a much better deal, if you can find the exact bike you want. What started my whole build was a bidding war on eBay for an Epic Expert I wanted. It was the EXACT bike I wanted but I had a budget and it went beyond what I was prepared to spend at that time.

    If you're comparing buying a new one to building one from scratch, I'd say you can build a better equipped bike for less money. Obviously your preference of rear suspension style, frame geometry, etc. are going to decide if this is a better bike overall.

    That being said, I will have about $4,200 in my bike when it's completed. That's starting with nothing and buying every part needed for the build, but not including things like the Stans no-tube sealer, brake fluid, shock fluid, or any tools or maintenance items. I chose to build instead of buy because I wanted to outfit the bike the way I wanted AND I wanted the experience of building the complete bike myself.

    Here's a list of what I bought:
    Flxyii 17.5" frame
    Flxyii seat post
    Flxyii seat post clamp
    Flxyii 100mm stem
    Flxyii side entry bottle cage
    Flxyii 660mm raised bars
    Flxyii carbon stem spacer kit
    Neco headset
    Light Bicycle wide carbon 29er wheels with 881/882 hubs
    SRAM X0 24/38/Bash crankset
    SRAM BB30 bottom bracket bearings
    SRAM X0 Type 2 long rear derailleur
    SRAM X0 front derailleur
    SRAM X0 2x10 trigger shifters
    SRAM XG-1080 11-36 rear cassette
    Shimano M785 front and rear brakes
    Shimano 160mm IceTech rear rotor
    Shimano 180mm IceTech front rotor
    Shimano 1800mm front caliper spacer
    RockShox SID XX front fork with 15mm Mxlite axle and XLoc remote
    RockShox Monarch XX 6.5x1.5 rear shock
    RWC front and rear needle bearing kit for rear shock
    DTSwiss 10x135 rear axle kit
    KMC X10.93 chain
    Jagwire Mountain Pro braided cable kit
    Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front and 2.25 rear tires
    Stans rim tape and valve stems

    Oh, I did have a saddle and grips from an old bike I'm using for now.

    Was it worth it and would I do it again? If I had won the auction on that Epic, I would have been happy with that. But since I didn't, I'm happy with my invested money and with my invested time. I haven't gotten to ride it yet, so I can't comment on the outcome of the bike.
    Last edited by hidperf; 03-25-2013 at 09:18 AM.

  41. #691
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    @Epic_Dude - if this bike was modeled after anything, then it's more bikes, not just the Scott Spark. The Spark has completely different downtube/headtube/front tire clearance, and ones that I like a lot less. There is a designer of this frame out there somewhere, but they probably think it's better for the business if all the licensees of that open mold say they designed it themselves. Just my opinion anyway.
    Rode another Scott Spark, this time a Large, the rear suspension worked better on this demo, the CTD remote lockout was nice, if I were to build a FS 29er I think it would be a nice to have so the rider can more easily go from plush, to moderate, to minimal rear suspension travel.

  42. #692
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    if you get ctd, try to go with the remote option so that you don't need to constantly reach down to adjust the shock.
    my carbon footprint has cleats

  43. #693
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    Quote Originally Posted by two-one View Post
    And @Komdotkom and @ypocat, the knocking between the shock and "control" link... that shouldn't be possible, even with an oversized 8mm hole. That's because the bolt should not carry the forces itself, but it should tighten the shock adapter against the carbon controllink, and the friction where those two touch should be able to convey the forces, the bolt only holds everything together, is it tightened properly? Or maybe the bolt bottoms out? Then filing the bolt-rod a little should help it, or maybe place a spacer below the bolt.
    Well my gripe with tightening the bolt at a higher torque was that then the shock was barely turning on that joint, when I undid the other joint and tried to move the shock by hand up and down.

    But your post got me thinking, so I dismounted the shock and the bolt adapters and greased them at the surfaces where they were supposed to turn, and then cycled them by hand with the axle fastened in a vice, and this got them moving a bit easier.

    Then I tightened the bolts properly, and so far there is no clacking, and the rear suspension seems to be working fine too.

    I still think the bolt is the main force carrier here (I know I may be wrong!), and being tightened with a higher torque only makes it not move when the bike is picked up by hand, because the force is not strong enough (so it stays in the position where it sits while I'm on the bike), and this comes at the price of slight (perhaps negligible, given the total force) extra shock damping (on the tightened joints).

    Anyway, I think this solves it for me for now, so I guess thanks for that.

  44. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by Komdotkom View Post
    Hi there, here's mine that I purcahsed from Flyxii.
    It arrived very quickly (I'm in Australia) and was well packed. I had to pull it apart to see what the pivots and stuff were like, as a former Titus owner I wasn't going to even bother building it if the pivots were not aligned like a Titus. Anyway I was surprised that all of the pivots were ball bearings and aligned very well. The only adjustment I made was grease and some .9mm spacers in the lower main pivot where the chainstay mount was rubbing on the seatpost pivot. This fixed it up, smooth as butter.
    It's been built with an X0 2x10 groupset except for the front der which is an XTR, my direct mount Sram X0 wouldn't fit, different bolt holes. Other components are T40 carbon bars, Monarch XX shock, SID RT3 forks and it's got mismatched wheels while I wait for my 135x10 hub kit for my TWE carbons. It weighs in a just over 10kg's so I'm pretty happy with that.


    The good
    It's super stiff and rides well, I think I may have to change from mid to high tune on the Monarch because it bobs pretty hard with 215psi in the shock with the lockout off. Fairly compliant over the rough stuff, but it's not a plush ride at all. Having said that the shock has less than 50km on it, so it certainly isn't broken in.

    The bad
    The cable routing is a dog's breakfast, and the location for the remote to go through the frame doesn't work at all with the Monarch XX. I don't like the rear mech cable being clamped under the down tube and looped under the BB, so I'm going to change that when I can find the cable clamps I'm looking for.
    I found my 17.5 a bit small, I'm 5'10 with short legs but it's smaller than my Paragon by a fair margin.
    I don't love the rear brake config, but it doesn't brake jack at all so I can live with that, it's just a hassle to take the rear wheel on and off without scratching the carbon with the rotor.
    Doesn't come painted, but that's not really bad I suppose.
    I also purchased a 350mm carbon seatpost from Flyxii, it was sh!t. Too short, flexy and a very poor seat clamp. I'll just order another Thomson from CRC. Needs a 400mm seat post minimum.
    You don't happen to have any pictures of your non-drive side crank area do you? I'm trying to figure out some of my brake hose and cable routing and would like an idea how yours is routed.

    Also, did you try rotating the fitting on your Monarch XX so that it was in between the mounting flange in the front? Is the routing of the XLoc hose too sharp of a turn under there? Does it matter which way the Monarch faces? Could I just reverse the mounting points and then it would be a straight shot over or under the shock from the exit of the internal route.

  45. #695
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    Well my gripe with tightening the bolt at a higher torque was that then the shock was barely turning on that joint, when I undid the other joint and tried to move the shock by hand up and down.
    This ONLY place where rotation is allowed, is between the shock bushing and adapter surfaces!!!

    If the shock is hard to rotate, then the teflon within the shock bushing is not worn in yet... you said you greased this interface, but this is actually a bad idea, 'cause this will speed up wear on this surface (the teflon will loosen from the steel shock bushing).

  46. #696
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    schwable furious freds at 18psi
    36t XX1 ring on the front
    the way up was even more fun, 170bpm, 90cad steady

    Contour | Stories | XX1 36t pt1/2
    Contour | Stories | XX1 36t pt2/2

  47. #697
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    Hi, guys! I wanna share to you my bike, finally I've tried to ride it last Sunday. This isn't a final assembly - wheels, fork, brakes and transmission are from my old bicycle, I'll replace them in the nearest future. It's just a first pic of my complete assebmly (rear brake hose is too short, so it goes such a strange way).

    Vitaliy, Russia.

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-ciner2.jpg

  48. #698
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    bvfromru- nice build, hope you enjoy it
    hidperf- how did you get the decals on your bike that you showed on your blog? Is that a digital overlay on the picture, or did you print it out somehow? If so what did you use to do it?
    -thanks
    my carbon footprint has cleats

  49. #699
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvfromru View Post
    Hi, guys! I wanna share to you my bike, finally I've tried to ride it last Sunday. This isn't a final assembly - wheels, fork, brakes and transmission are from my old bicycle, I'll replace them in the nearest future. It's just a first pic of my complete assebmly (rear brake hose is too short, so it goes such a strange way).

    Vitaliy, Russia.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks fantastic Vitaliy. How's it ride? Any complaints or things others should look out for?

    Quote Originally Posted by xc biker View Post
    bvfromru- nice build, hope you enjoy it
    hidperf- how did you get the decals on your bike that you showed on your blog? Is that a digital overlay on the picture, or did you print it out somehow? If so what did you use to do it?
    -thanks
    Those are just digital overlays. I was bored and wanted to try different ideas. I used Picasa and found a font that is exactly like the Specialized font, or close enough I couldn't tell. It's called sofachrome. And on the bikes, it seems to be in italics.

    Wheels just came in today so now I can begin final assembly. I hope to have it out this weekend.

  50. #700
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    xc biker, hidperf, thanks! This is my first carbon frame bicycle, first fully suspension bicycle and first bicycle which I construct myself, so I have pretty much wonder about it It's too early to talk about my impressions, but I'm sure I'll like this bike.
    As about assembly details - I've had some troubles mounting front deraileur. Mine XT M780 E-Type seems to be not quite compatible with this frame's plate. I had to use some type of spacer to mount it straight, although deraileur was not parallel to the chainline. Well, that's not a big problem, I think it works pretty fine now and I didn't hear anyone who complain about this trouble except me.
    Another my bad experience - is that I broke few screw's threads. My bad, I always want to put more force to a wrench, but it won't acceptable with bicycles, especially with carbon bicycles. I even have dynamometric torque key, but it didn't help me. Well, that's my first experience. It works now, so I'm happy and just hope I won't broke any details in my future rides, 'cause my weight is about 95 kg.

    Ah, yes. I want to put some decals on the frame too, but to my sadness I don't know how to make it look professional.

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