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  1. #1301
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    I have a large IP-036, 32" inseam, stand over seems fine for me. With a 30" inseam, a large would probably be too tall for you.

  2. #1302
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    According to SCOTT, a Spark has the following:

    17.5"
    S/O - 30.2"

    19"
    S/O - 31.7"

    That's similar to my Giant AX29. I had to buy a Med to clear the top tube, but have ended up running a 90-105mm stem. I can't use a setback saddle post as my femur length is short, and it puts my knee behind the pedal instead of KOP.

    Well, damn. A Large SC TB2c or a Niner Jet 9c would fit me the best. At 2-3x the price.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  3. #1303
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34 View Post
    As a comparison, I rode a buddies carbon Tallboy the other day.

    It was a medium and it felt smaller than my 17.5 IP-036.
    Santa Cruz bikes typically have relatively short top tubes. My buddies Large Nomad had a TT that was 3/4" shorter than my old Spesh Enduro.

    It's really crazy how much sizing varies across brands. It also helps if you're of normal proportions and not a 6'2" guy from the waist up. Lol
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  4. #1304
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    Good job!

    For the ones curious if the IP-036 is race proof.
    Started last, had to pass 34 guys, could have taken 2nd but I spent lots of time passing others and could not catch before the end.Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-photo-2-.jpgDual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-photo-1-.jpg

  5. #1305
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    Nice!!!

  6. #1306
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    Great job Charles! It's nice to have a good bike but it takes a good bike + a good rider to win a race.

  7. #1307
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    is any seller selling these frames.. as premade bikes with additional margin? (ie with only a little assembly but no BB pain and having to cut the steering tube.. and bonus point if you dont have to pull cables)

  8. #1308
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    Then consensus is, you order the parts and if you want some of the bike built for you, find a local bike shop that is willing to do the work at a reasonable price.

  9. #1309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Then consensus is, you order the parts and if you want some of the bike built for you, find a local bike shop that is willing to do the work at a reasonable price.
    Yeah, I agree
    What's the chances of finding a merchant on line selling the exact frame you want and the exact parts you want?

    Or find a LBS that is willing to make a deal on the parts and assemble the bike for you with their parts

  10. #1310
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    i think many would compromise on the components like they do at brand shops - except the chinese stuff is cheaper really. Will ask my LBS

  11. #1311
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    Found a Scott dealer why was traveling in Utah this week Was able to throw a leg over a spark both large and medium. The stand over on the large is tight, but he didn't feel unmanageable. Was able to demo a size large genius 740, which has a similar stand over height to a large spark. The bike felt really good.

    Surprised at how much I like the genius, may try to find a shop in Denver that has a spark available to demo.

    Question for the group (sorry if I didn't take time to dig through all the pages, or if this has already been answered) how are people routing external dropper post hoses and/or cables? Guessing zipties around carbon is a no-no.
    Last edited by 06HokieMTB; 06-26-2014 at 08:45 AM.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  12. #1312
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    Oh another thing I noticed, was that every Scott had what appeared to be a polyurethane or plastic bushing on the rear most pivot. The material was that yellow green brown color that Fox is using on their new style shock bushings. Looks like they used that keep that pivot from developing any lateral play, which has been noted earlier for these frames.
    Last edited by 06HokieMTB; 06-26-2014 at 08:46 AM.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  13. #1313
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Oh another thing I noticed, was that every Scott had what appeared to be a polyurethane or plastic bushing on the rear most pivot. The material was that yellow green brown color that Fox is using on their new style shock bushings. Looks like they used that keep that pivot from developing any lateral play, which has been noted earlier for these frames.
    Most likely Delrin material.

  14. #1314
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    Yes. For lack of a better term, it looked like they had vertical Derlin "washers" in the pivot.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  15. #1315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uraniumc View Post
    So I have been reading this thread and the other HT carbon for thread for a while.
    I finally bought a frame after I found one on sale with free shipping and no paypal fees.
    $598. shipped....not bad at all.. seller has great communication.. very helpful

    2 years warranty15" 19" Suspension mountain bike/bicycle frame,OEM 29er Full Carbon fiber carbon Suspension MTB bike frame.-in Bicycle Frame from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com

    I have started buying parts, haven't decided on front derailleurs, crankset, BB yet... I don't know what derailleur will fit on this bike.. I think e type from what I read.... and I will probably get a tripe crankset... and until I decide on those two things I dont know which BB adapter to get.

    I ordered my frame UD matte, with a pF30 bb... I figure if the BB is bigger then all I need is an adaptor to fit more types of bb and crankset. or should I change my order and just get a bsa type bb instead? (since shimano crankset sometimes comes with a threaded BB) any Input on crankset and derailleur would be appreciated. I already have a 10 speed shimano deore cassette mounted on my hubset. should I match it with the same brand or get a sram pf30 type crankset?

    anyways here is what I am going to have on the bike if I manage to get all the parts I ordered... some from ebay some from aliexpress

    Frame: Specialized Enduro expert carbon clone, 12x142mm, 1980g
    Fork: Manitou tower pro 140 mm QR15, Tapered, 1698g
    Bar: 700mm FSA K-Force carbon fiber handlebar 31.8mm, 300g (guess)
    Seatpost: 31.6mm FSA RK-160 carbon fiber seatpost 400mm, 300g
    Stem: FSA DS99 carbon fiber stem, 300g
    Saddle: Norco saddle for another bike
    Brakes: SHIMANO DEORE XT hydraulic brakes set
    Headset: China no name brand
    Rear Shock: 2013 DT Swiss 212 Rear Shock with remote. (200mm x 50mm)
    Groupset: SHIMANO DEORE XT 10 speed sprocket, shifters
    Missing front derailleurs...
    Crankset: WHat should I get for my PF30 bracket???
    Rims: WTB Frequency i23 29er tubeless
    Hubs: DT Swiss 350 6 bolt, 12x142mm back, 15mm front, thru axel
    Tires: Maxxis Ardent 29 x 2.25
    QR rear:
    QR front: Manitou QR15 hex lock
    Seat clamp: china white qr clamps 31.8mm
    Pedals:
    Handlebar grips:
    Chain:

    need a dt swiss mounting kit for my shocks...

    any suggestions on the things I still need to get?

    for people wonder on cost.. not all my parts are new.. I am at $1200 so far. probably will spend another $300 on the parts I am missing
    It certainly looks like an Enduro but the head and seat tumble angles are much steeper. I'm interested to what you think after riding it. I'd be more interested in a Mach 429 or Ripley clone. I've been beating the hell out of a Hung Fu ***** (fm-056) for over year with no problems.

  16. #1316
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    All the more prominent Chinese frames have head angles of 71 and rather longish headtubes. Can anyone recommend a frame with <= 70 (and shorter headtube, e.g a medium frame with 115 mm is longish for me. 100-105 mm would be "modern" [for me])?

  17. #1317
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    We the people ... My build info

    Part Model Grams Price
    Frame IP-036 2,200 $846.00
    Rear Shock RockShox Monarch XX Rear Shock 165 x 38, Eye to eye length: 6.5" and Stroke: 1.5" with 2 sets of mounting hardware 340 $284.83
    Front Fork RockShox SID XX World Cup Solo Air 100 29 1,485 $970.35
    Headset Headset 144 $20.50
    Wheelset XMI Carbon 30mm with Novatec 142x12 / 15mm Axle 1,100 $756.40
    Skewars Axles 100 $21.50
    Rear Derailleur XX1 Deraileur 220 $254.60
    Front Brake Shimano XT BR-M785/785-B Disc Brake Caliper & Lever 220 $123.79
    Rear Brake Shimano XT BR-M785/785-B Disc Brake Caliper & Lever 307 $122.79
    Brake Rotors Set Shimano XT RT86 IceTech 160mm 6-Bolt Rotor 162 $86.60
    Crankset RAM XX1 BB30 175mm 168Q 465 $303.48
    Chainring SRAM XX1 X-Sync 32 Tooth 55 $82.22
    Shifter SRAM XX1 Trigger 11 Speed Shifter with Handlebar Clamp 91 $144.64
    Bottom Bracket SRAM BB30 61 31.20
    Cassette SRAM XX1 10-42 11 Speed Cassette 260 $536.80
    Chain SRAM XX1 11 Speed Chain 118 links 252 $45.92
    Handlebars Carbon Integrated handlebar 600mm or 700mm 250 $110.00
    Stem Integrated with Bar 0
    Seatpost Carbon Seatpost 195 $61.20
    Seatpost Collar Clamp Alloy seatpost collar 18 $20.00
    Saddle WTB Vigo Pro Gray Saddle CroMo Rails 340 $56.40
    Grips ESI Chunky 60 $15.00
    Pedals Shimano XT PD-M780 343 $81.99
    Tires Schwalbe Racing Ralph Tubeless-Ready Tire, 29x2.25 EVO Folding Bead Black with PaceStar Compound and SnakeSkin 1,210 $114.84
    Tubes Not required
    Tubeless Fluid Stan's Fluid for both wheels 40 $24.70
    Cables & Bike Fairies Cables and Straps 50 $12.80
    Estimated Weight 9,968


    Total bike parts with Frame $5100
    Assembled tuned and packed bike total $5600, included tubeless conversion, hydraulic cables trimming. Added $220 for Xloc Full Sprint conversion.

  18. #1318
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    Hi Charles, thanks for the info on your build. Mine was similar only the weight is 10.8kg (24 lbs) and cost was $4,250.

  19. #1319
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    Hi Guys,
    Finaly i get my frame, after waiting for 1 1/2 months.
    myplay IP-036.
    One question for everybody with this frame.
    I Have some play on the connection between chainstay and the seatstay, basically is a lateral play .
    I already remove and regrease all tight it properly but still got some play

    I went to my LBS for fine tuning and they laughing off me say this is a dangerous experiment ( of course they try to sell me a giant athem 3 month ago).lol. only the time will decide how is right.

    Frame IP-036 Large Matte.
    Shimano xt brakes and rotors.
    Thomson elite x4 handlerbar, stem, seat collar
    carbom 35mm wheelset, maxis arden tires
    Rockshox Sid XX Black 120mm.
    Rockshox monach black.
    carbon seat post
    Fizik Goblin Carbon
    X01 Groupset.
    ODI Rufian grips
    Shimano spd pedals.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140628_155652.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140628_181620.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140628_181637.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140628_181649.jpg  


  20. #1320
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    Nothing wrong with the gaps on the rear pivots, the guys at the LBS laugh because they think unless you paid $3k for a FS carbon frame, what you have is garbage.

    Tell them these frames have been raced in endurance races, thousands of miles from hundreds of users and not one reported failure. They are built in the same factories as those that have the the big brand names on them.

    You'll be fine, go ride your new bargain priced, carbon 29er and smile.

  21. #1321
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    @Angel212, just curios how much your build weighs with your RShox SID? I have the same incoming frame size 19 also but planning to put 120mm Talas. Can't wait for my build, I hope Peter delivers fast as item is in stock, it's only painting new color he has to do

  22. #1322
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    @Angel212, just curios how much your build weighs with your RShox SID? I have the same incoming frame size 19 also but planning to put 120mm Talas. Can't wait for my build, I hope Peter delivers fast as item is in stock, it's only painting new color he has to do
    25.5 lbs. with pedals and the maxxis arden tires ( a little heavy)

  23. #1323
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    @Angel212, that's light enough for an MTB. I've ridden with guys hauling 13-15kg AMs and hardtails!!

    If you don't mind, could you share with me the exact measurements of your rear shock bushings? I'm thinking of ordering them online while waiting for my frame from Peter so I can ride it immediately

    Quote Originally Posted by Angel212 View Post
    25.5 lbs. with pedals and the maxxis arden tires ( a little heavy)

  24. #1324
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    @Padyakero, The bushing size i order was 22.2x8mm (2set).
    I order from a guy in ebay Cyclepartsintl1.
    Rockshox Monarch RL, 6.5x1.5 (165x38) Fast black body,
    Rockshox SID XX solo air 120mm 29. Maxlite 15 Black. Motion control DNA Xloc.
    paid for both $779 + 15 each bushing.


    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    @Angel212, that's light enough for an MTB. I've ridden with guys hauling 13-15kg AMs and hardtails!!

    If you don't mind, could you share with me the exact measurements of your rear shock bushings? I'm thinking of ordering them online while waiting for my frame from Peter so I can ride it immediately

  25. #1325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel212 View Post
    One question for everybody with this frame.
    I Have some play on the connection between chainstay and the seatstay, basically is a lateral play .
    I already remove and regrease all tight it properly but still got some play
    Those are exactly the gaps I was talking about when I took at look at the Scott frames last week. When I looked at a bunch of Sparks and Genius', I noticed they all had Derlin in there (sorry, didn't think to take a picture).

    Maybe we could sweet talk a Scott dealer to sell the green Derlin washers/bushings and see if they fit the IP-036?

    Another thought would be taking the hardware to ACE and seeing if they have any thin shims or plastic washers that could be used to fill that gap.

    All you would need is a thin shim to take up the lateral play (if any) in the joint.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  26. #1326
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    And would some people that don't have the TwinLoc system mind posting up how these climb/ride?

    The Scott I test rode last week rode well, but I could tell it was a single pivot. I noticed some brake jack on the descents as well as shock movement when climbing.

    The thought of getting a 142 rear axle, 31.6 post and BSA bottom bracket (I hate PF!) keeps me coming back to this thread... I'm just not sold on the (relatively) older rear suspension design. (Sorry, don't mean to offend... just researching before purchasing).
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  27. #1327
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Those are exactly the gaps I was talking about when I took at look at the Scott frames last week. When I looked at a bunch of Sparks and Genius', I noticed they all had Derlin in there (sorry, didn't think to take a picture).

    Maybe we could sweet talk a Scott dealer to sell the green Derlin washers/bushings and see if they fit the IP-036?

    Another thought would be taking the hardware to ACE and seeing if they have any thin shims or plastic washers that could be used to fill that gap.

    All you would need is a thin shim to take up the lateral play (if any) in the joint.
    Mcmaster.com sells teflon (PTFE), Delrin, or other low friction washers, if we determine what sizes (ID, OD, thickness) needed, it would be easy to order from them.

  28. #1328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Mcmaster.com sells teflon (PTFE), Delrin, or other low friction washers, if we determine what sizes (ID, OD, thickness) needed, it would be easy to order from them.
    I can take it out tomorrow and measure the size i'll post picture and the information.
    Anyway I cant use still waiting for some parts.

  29. #1329
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    Here is the pictures guys.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_084641.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_084911.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_084921.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085121.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085447.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085948.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085409.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140701_085520.jpg  


  30. #1330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel212 View Post
    Here is the pictures guys.
    Angel212, nice effort with posting pictures, but it appears you are not sure what to measure. In your first picture you measured a 2mm gap at the pivot joint, however, in the second picture you can see the 2.5mm spacer on the bearing. Neither really shows how much, if any, actual gap is in the joint.

    As you tighten down the binding post, you should not be tightening the 2.5mm spacers against the bearing. You do not want to over tighten the pivot or crush the bearing which is why a binding post is used. Otherwise will either cause the pivot to not move freely or even worse, crack the carbon around the pivot mount. What we need to know is how much thicker the 2.5mm spacer can be without causing the binding post to over tighten and cause the pivot not to move freely.

    You measure the outside diameter (OD) of the spacer at 15mm, that is a good measurement. What is the inner diameter (ID) of the spacer? Most likely it's a little more than 8mm as I think that is the size of the binding post.

    You need to determine what size the new spacer should be, possibly 15mm x 8.25mm x 3mm? It's hard to say. Possibly every frame is a little different.

    I would like to see the difference in hole size in the frame to the OD of the bearing. Is there movement of the bearing in the mounting hole?

    After checking my frame to look a little more closely at where the gaps really are, I am finding the rear shock mount, near the seat tube, seems to have the most slop. If the slop is really on the shock mount, then I will need to think more about how to tighten things up, at least on my bike.

    These are very simple pivot designs so it doesn't surprise me that there would be some slop in the links. Even my Specialized Epic had a similar amount of slop in the suspension, although I am sure not all FS bikes have as much slop. I mean, if I paid $3,000 USD for a frame, it better not have any slop in the pivots.

  31. #1331
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    Whati see is the bearing go deep into the seatstay. So I think the spacer have .5mm inside the seatstay pushing the bearing on place and the other 2mm is the space we see at the chain/seat stay. I was think to get a washer 2mm wide with a ID 15mm and stick above the spacer .

    What u think?

  32. #1332
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    So you are thinking you want a spacer with a 15mm+ ID x 2mm thick? I am not sure it would make any difference other than filling the gap around the existing spacer. I would not limit any lateral movement.

  33. #1333
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    And would some people that don't have the TwinLoc system mind posting up how these climb/ride?
    Can anyone comment on riding this bike without a TwinLoc system? The 650b Genius I rode had a TwinLoc and I found myself using it, as bob was noticable. I was unable to ride a Spark. The reviews I'm reading on the Spark essentially suggest that the TwinLoc is necessary for efficient climbing.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  34. #1334
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Can anyone comment on riding this bike without a TwinLoc system? The 650b Genius I rode had a TwinLoc and I found myself using it, as bob was noticable. I was unable to ride a Spark. The reviews I'm reading on the Spark essentially suggest that the TwinLoc is necessary for efficient climbing.
    I think efficiency of this FS bike is somewhat dependent on which shock you choose. I chose a Fox CTD BV so I would have three compression settings. Even in the Fox C (climb) mode, there is some small amount of shock compression, ~12mm of travel, which I really like. In that mode, the CTD shock still provides some small amount of compliance. I suppose C mode is the most efficient for climbing, however, T (trail) mode allows for very good pedaling efficiency while providing a smoother climb.

    I ride most of the time in T (trail) mode as it give you about 75% of travel and noticeably less shock compression than in D (Decsent) mode. T mode gives you good pedaling efficiency and good bump compliance. While D mode is all out full open for flying downhill. In D-mode there is more suspension movement while pedaling though.

    I do have a twin-loc system (Scott CTD Lever) on my bike and believe this is a great way to go. If I didn't have suspension lock-out, I might choose the FOX CTD that has a secondary tuning adjustment for the trail mode.

    Even the Roxshox Monarch XX is a great shock if you were to choose it.

    Overall I would say that shock technology has come a long way, whether you chose to add remote lockout or not, today's shocks help any bike have good pedaling efficiency.

  35. #1335
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    So my plan was to build a carbon chiner as a replacement to my alum 29er HT.......but found a carbon hardtailed Haro FLC SLX 2 x 10 grouped bike, new, for less than half price this week, so I jumped on it. I don't have a grand in it, shipped to my door- too cheap to pass up. .....and Haro offer a lifetime warranty on their carbon frames....I was shocked. However, the stuff on my alum HT can be swapped over to a FS chiner over the winter as a project after pedalling season is done.

  36. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by omnivore View Post
    However, the stuff on my alum HT can be swapped over to a FS chiner over the winter as a project after pedalling season is done.
    The pedaling season is never done!
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-img_20140225_113130_034-1024x577-.jpg
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  37. #1337
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    How are y'all riding the IP-036?

    What I mean, is that I'm afraid I'm going to break my AnthemX 29. I ride the hell out of a 100mm XC 29er and have done everything I can to make it a lightweight trail bike... 120 fork, offset shock bushing to get the HA to 69.5*, 2.3 Spesh Purgatory front tire, etc. Hell, I'd probably be running a RS Reverb dropper if my AX29 was 31.6 instead of 30.9... I can't help myself. If I make it to the top of a nasty CO Front Range climb, I'm going to open it up on the DH. I just enjoy ripping down too much to hold back because I'm on a lightweight XC bike.

    I'm also 187lbs out of the shower, well over 200 riding weight.

    I'm really thinking than an IP-036 is probably too much XC/Race and not enough Aggressive XC/trail for how I push my bikes.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  38. #1338
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    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er

    Have any of these companies made a frame with 110mm - 120mm of travel yet?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Death from Below.

  39. #1339
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    How are y'all riding the IP-036?

    What I mean, is that I'm afraid I'm going to break my AnthemX 29. I ride the hell out of a 100mm XC 29er and have done everything I can to make it a lightweight trail bike... 120 fork, offset shock bushing to get the HA to 69.5*, 2.3 Spesh Purgatory front tire, etc. Hell, I'd probably be running a RS Reverb dropper if my AX29 was 31.6 instead of 30.9... I can't help myself. If I make it to the top of a nasty CO Front Range climb, I'm going to open it up on the DH. I just enjoy ripping down too much to hold back because I'm on a lightweight XC bike.

    I'm also 187lbs out of the shower, well over 200 riding weight.

    I'm really thinking than an IP-036 is probably too much XC/Race and not enough Aggressive XC/trail for how I push my bikes.
    Sounds pretty aggressive for a short travel XC bike. Maybe you need something with 120mm - 140mm of travel. It's difficult to have a bike that will stand up to tons of abuse, like you describe, and weigh in at a svelte 23-24 lbs, like an nicely built IP-036 does.

    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Have any of these companies made a frame with 110mm - 120mm of travel yet?
    If you read the specs on the IP-036, it already has 110mm of travel. More than that, IMO, then it's not a XC bike anymore. Not that long ago, XC bikes had 80mm of travel so it's obvious that the trend is toward more travel but there comes to a point of how much is enough? 4" of travel is quite a bit in my book, enough for rough XC and some decent trail riding.

  40. #1340
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Sounds pretty aggressive for a short travel XC bike. Maybe you need something with 120mm - 140mm of travel. It's difficult to have a bike that will stand up to tons of abuse, like you describe, and weigh in at a svelte 23-24 lbs, like an nicely built IP-036 does.
    Thanks for your response. I agree. Which is why I simply need to remind myself that I have an XC bike and AM bike. They can sometimes cross purposes, but I don't expect to huck my XC bike like my AM bike. I did 40 miles of riding this weekend and am aiming for more this coming weekend. I really like a light and efficient XC 29er for long rides.

    Did some measuring on my bikes this AM.

    My Motobecane townie (rigid 29er) has a S/O of around 31.75"
    My (soon to be sold) Giant AnthemX 29 (with a 120 fork) has a S/O of around 32-32.5"

    While the top tube is close to the boys, neither of these bikes are uncomfortable for me to ride.

    I think a large IP-036 would fit me nicely... just waiting to hear back from Peter on the frame and some hookless carbon rims.

    ProBike supply has a 2014 Fox FLOAT CTD-ADJ BOOST VALVE Kashima Factory Shock (free reducers) on sale for $405 with free bushings/reducers.

    From everything I read about the IP-036 (and Scott Spark), the CTD Adj with Boost Valve is a great riding upgrade for this frame.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  41. #1341
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    Yep, that's pretty much my build as well. If you read some of my other posts, the ability to lock out the suspension is something I really like. At 5'-11", I've never had an issue with stand over height, although I'd be willing to live with a close stand over height if the frame rode well overall.

  42. #1342
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    Deleted... Already answered and I'm too wordy. Lol
    Last edited by 06HokieMTB; 07-15-2014 at 06:38 AM.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  43. #1343
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    I'm not in the convo but for those people who are looking to get it cheap never go to their website. Check Alibaba.com and ask for sample (one way, usually cheapest way) second is just buy it from aliexpress.com
    Online Buy Wholesale full suspension frame from China full suspension frame Wholesalers |Aliexpress.com
    Becareful using Alibaba.com 29er Full Suspension Carbon Frame-29er Full Suspension Carbon Frame Manufacturers, Suppliers and Exporters on Alibaba.comBicycle Frame

    If you are using aliexpress.com they are like ebay full money back. However for Alibaba.com they might be scams, so to be safe if it's your first time, go to the link I have given, they are confirmed companies, I'll still recommend using paypal to pay them, or insure your payment.

    If asked I will make a full guide on buying cheaper products.


    Edit: if you are going to alibaba.com to buy anything make sure you check the "Gold Supplier" and "Onsite Check" they have to be both done, usually Gold members are none scams, since they pay around $500 a month to sell. good luck, and sorry for those who bought it at expensive prices lol.

  44. #1344
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    Hey guys quick question, what kind of headset are you using. I was using the original NECO headset that came with the frame, but last few days has been making a clicking noise every time i move the handlebar. I would like to replace with Canecreek head set but i dont know what model need the bike. Is IP36 model from Peter.
    Btw i just install a dropped post ks Eten, work great for only $118, at jensonusa.

  45. #1345
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlesrg View Post
    Wheelset[
    1,100.
    is that wheelset really 1,100 grams ?

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    Hi, I have noticed that there is some play, with one of the bolts that holds the rear shock, i got a flyxii frame and the bolt is a M8 x40 with internal threads, any one in here that know where to purchase these bolts, prefereble black.

    Best regards

  47. #1347
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel212 View Post
    Hey guys quick question, what kind of headset are you using. I was using the original NECO headset that came with the frame, but last few days has been making a clicking noise every time i move the handlebar. I would like to replace with Canecreek head set but i dont know what model need the bike. Is IP36 model from Peter.
    Btw i just install a dropped post ks Eten, work great for only $118, at jensonusa.
    You probably just need to replace the lower bearing

  48. #1348
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    Could anyone pls make a photo how does IP-036 142x12 rear hanger looks like?

  49. #1349
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    Frame ID 120mm

    Wondering if anyone can ID this frame. I have seen a few painted different ways. It is not the same FM036 that is everywhere. If you look at the seat tube, it is straighter than the FM036. There is a 27.5 and a 29 version that both have 120mm rear travel.

    There is also another similar one with a completely straight seat tube, but it really doesn't look as good as the ones below and I have only only seen it on eBay.

    There is also no front derailleur mount on the seat tube either.

    The yellow one is a branded frame from a shop in Oregon. The other is branded as a Grammo. The green one has a different real triangle on it, but also labeled a Grammo.

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-image.jpgDual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-image.jpgDual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-image.jpg

  50. #1350
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    I believe there are pics of that posted earlier in this thread

  51. #1351
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    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er

    Just bought a DT Swiss XMM 120 OPM, Syntace FlatForce 55mm stem and Low10 Vector Carbon 740mm bar, XX1 RD and shifter, and Cane Creek headset.

    Next: IP-036 and a RS Monarch.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Death from Below.

  52. #1352
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    Is it possible to run an angleset on any of these frames? I'd love to have a 29" with a 120mm fork, 67-68 head angle, and about 110mm travel in the rear.

  53. #1353
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    Probably easier (and cheaper) to just run an offset bushing or two. With the 22.2xM8, you can get 2mm offset bushings. Running 2 of those would easily drop your HTA by 1*
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  54. #1354
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    Quote Originally Posted by breakjnky View Post
    Wondering if anyone can ID this frame
    You are talking about ltk-088 (27.5) and ltk-098 (29) cheers

  55. #1355
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    My ip036 from peter

    Here's my IP036 from Peter. Used old components from my previous IP098 build. These came a little heavier at 11.8kg but I like the looks and fit of this better!

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-2014-08-sh3real-001.jpgDual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-2014-08-sh3real-022.jpg

  56. #1356
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    Not sure what you are asking
    Your message must be for someone else

  57. #1357
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    Here's my IP036 from Peter. Used old components from my previous IP098 build. These came a little heavier at 11.8kg but I like the looks and fit of this better!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What big gear are you running on the cassette? Better yet, how about full specs?

    I'm thinking of going from my X0 2x10 to a 1x10 with the Wolftooth 42 and 16.

    When I built mine, the XX1 just came out and it was out of my price range, plus I built the bike for a ~250 mile 7-day ride across Colorado, so I wanted the gear selection. I'll never do a trip like that again so dropping the extra weight would be perfect. Going with the 42 with a 26 up front would give me the exact same coverage minus 2 top gears, which is no loss.

  58. #1358
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    Has anyone seen or built up one of the WCB-M-098 frames. They are mostly advertised as 29er's but some are advertised as 650b although quite clearly they are the same frame. I was wondering if I built up this frame with 650b wheels and used a 200x57/56mm rear shock as apposed to using 29inch wheels with a 200x50mm rear shock would it increase the rear wheel travel a little.
    Kind regards Gary

  59. #1359
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    @hidperf,
    I am using Wolftooth 42T at the rear. Did exactly as instructed to install it in my XT 11-36T cassette for a 1x10 set-up. In the front, I used XT 165mm + raceface 36T and it got me almost all gear combination I needed for hills and flats. I found out if the climb is too high for my lowest gear combo 36t front and 42T rear, I just better dismount and walk the bike I'll be even faster On flats and when I really-really need speed, my 11T rear and 36T front is just enough for my cadence and power. Can't go more comfortable than that. I believe you won't go wrong with a 1X10 set-up


    Frame: IP036, tapered head tube, size 19, BSA 142X12
    RS: Rockshox Monarch, 165mm eye-to-eye
    Fork: Fox Talas, 95/120mm
    Wheelset: Fulcrum Red Metal XL29 with Michellin Wild Grip'r 2.25 tubeless tires
    Headset: Neco from Peter
    Seatpost: Chiner Carbon
    Saddle: SelleRoyal Selva Saddle
    Handlebars: 780mm crankbrothers carbon
    Stem: 50mm Kore
    Brakeset: Avid9
    Rotors: Ashima superlight rotors
    Rear shifter: XT barmount (w/ gear indicator)
    Crankset: XT double chainring converted to single chainring using race face 36T. surprisingly the weight of the assembly (crankset + 36T chainring without BB) came only at 620grams!
    Chain: XT
    Cassete: 11-36XT without 17T plus 42T wolf tooth
    Rear dereileur: XT midcage
    Pedals: Venzo pedals (at 400g for the pair it's lighter than most clipless!)
    Grips: ODI Yeti design

    Total build weight: 11.8kg

  60. #1360
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! WCB-M-098 suspension frame

    Has anyone seen or built up one of the WCB-M-098 frames. They are mostly advertised as 29er's but some are advertised as 650b although quite clearly they are the same frame. I was wondering if I built up this frame with 650b wheels and used a 200x57/56mm rear shock as apposed to using 29inch wheels with a 200x50mm rear shock would it increase the rear wheel travel a little.
    Kind regards Gary
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by garyalanlane; 08-15-2014 at 09:47 PM. Reason: forgot title

  61. #1361
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    @garyalanlane,
    I have built that frame but on 29er wheel and my experience is good except that I should have gone one size higher as the top tube length is short.

    With your question I think indeed you can fit a 27.5 wheel on the 29er frame and the tire gap to the seat-tube will indeed increase by 1.5 inch maybe depends on your tire. but putting a rearshock that is 200x56/57 instead of what geometry recommends (200x50) I am not sure if it will still be within the upper pivots reach. you have to check carefully the geometry, maybe ask Peter for the detailed drawing so you can calculate more carefully.

    I can tell you though that frame's internal cable routing is far more advanced and cleaner than the new build I have now which is IP036.

    Goodluck on your project

  62. #1362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    @garyalanlane,
    I have built that frame but on 29er wheel and my experience is good except that I should have gone one size higher as the top tube length is short.

    With your question I think indeed you can fit a 27.5 wheel on the 29er frame and the tire gap to the seat-tube will indeed increase by 1.5 inch maybe depends on your tire. but putting a rearshock that is 200x56/57 instead of what geometry recommends (200x50) I am not sure if it will still be within the upper pivots reach. you have to check carefully the geometry, maybe ask Peter for the detailed drawing so you can calculate more carefully.

    I can tell you though that frame's internal cable routing is far more advanced and cleaner than the new build I have now which is IP036.

    Goodluck on your project
    Thanks for the kind reply. I would be interested to know more about your build. What head set size do you need to accommodate a tapered steerer column folk and what type mount is the front derailleur. What is the travel in mm of the rear suspension. Would be great if you could post some pics.and who is this Peter to ask him for detailed drawings. Thanks again

  63. #1363
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    I posted my last post in the wrong thread, so here again:

    I'm from Germany, so my English is not the best ;-) Last week I tested the Speci Stumpjumper FSR 29 and I quite liked it. I read a lot about the Chinese Carbon Frames in German and English forums the last days and I'm thinking of building my own bike. There is a lot of information and I still don't have a good overview.
    Is there any Chinese Carbon All Mountain Frame similar to the Stumpjumper with around 130 mm travel?

    Thanks in advance

  64. #1364
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    This was my previous build.

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-my-build-29er-008.jpgDual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-my-build-29er-002.jpg

    With Peter from xamiplay they call this frame IP098. In my case I used Neco headset coming from the supplier of the frame but you can use branded ones as long as it is for tapered head tube with integrated cups.

    FD is direct mount and top-pull. About the rear travel, I can't exactly recall but I used recommended-sized rearshock so the fox CTD 200x50mm found it's place.

    If you scroll back on this thread, you'll see lot's of post from Peter. He's been active in this thread and transacted with quite a lot from different people.

  65. #1365
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    Thanks for the pics..bike looks great, how did it ride?

  66. #1366
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    Re: Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by charlesrg View Post
    For the ones curious if the IP-036 is race proof.
    Started last, had to pass 34 guys, could have taken 2nd but I spent lots of time passing others and could not catch before the end.Click image for larger version. 

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    Hahahah.
    I know the guy in orange.
    Met him last week in Windham NY.

  67. #1367
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    Quote Originally Posted by torio View Post
    You are talking about ltk-088 (27.5) and ltk-098 (29) cheers
    I don't see the resemblance in the LTK-098 -

    LTK098-29er

  68. #1368
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    ..............
    Last edited by yurkiy; 08-19-2014 at 04:12 AM.

  69. #1369
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    Choosing 29" frame for XC bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    @garyalanlane,
    I have built that frame but on 29er wheel and my experience is good except that I should have gone one size higher as the top tube length is short.

    With your question I think indeed you can fit a 27.5 wheel on the 29er frame and the tire gap to the seat-tube will indeed increase by 1.5 inch maybe depends on your tire. but putting a rearshock that is 200x56/57 instead of what geometry recommends (200x50) I am not sure if it will still be within the upper pivots reach. you have to check carefully the geometry, maybe ask Peter for the detailed drawing so you can calculate more carefully.

    I can tell you though that frame's internal cable routing is far more advanced and cleaner than the new build I have now which is IP036.

    Goodluck on your project
    Hi! Could you please share your knowledge and experience, since you have dealt with both frames: IP-098 and IP-036 (actually everybody are welcome if they have anything to say on the topic).

    IP-098:
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-1__62654.1408228441.1280.1280.jpg

    IP-036:
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-29er-carbon-frame-01_1.jpg

    I think about ordering one of these to build an XC 29er, but haven't decided which yet (tend to IP-098). So, to systemize all the questions I'll make a list:

    1) I think the first question in any case would be: in general from your experience can you justify (and why?) a purchase of one of these carbon (but still Chinese frames) over an aluminium frame from a well-known non-chinese manufacturer? Over Merida Big Ninty Nine XT-M frame for instance. There is not that much of a difference in price (considering that Meridas price include quite good rear shock). Or Cube AMS frame as another example?

    2) Which of these two frames would you recommend and why? Why did you switch from your IP-098 to IP-036? I personally like the shape and appearance of IP-098 more. Plus completely internal routing makes it look neater. And the frame looks more XC (Im interested in XC mostly) and less trial than IP-036. At the same time I clearly understand, that appearance is not the most important part.

    3) What is your opinion specifically on the build quality of these frames, because, you know, it IS what usually scares people away from buying Chinese something Overall stiffness? Bearings quality? Play in links?

    4) How do suspensions feel? They are both 'Faux bar' design, but of different geometries. How do they behave? Pedal bob? Pedal kickback? Behaviour under braking?

    5) It is sort of a supplementary question, but nevertheless. There are a lot of these frames on Aliexpress and Alibaba and lots of suppliers. And almost every single offer lists different model number. Are IP-098 and IP-036 the official model numbers? Maybe anyone knows who really does produce these frames in China? Or are there many factories, that build frames using one pattern? Who is it better to deal with, when ordering a frame?

    Its a wallotext, sorry, but I really look forward to your response and opinion of other fellow mtbrers
    Last edited by Dawnkeeper; 08-26-2014 at 10:42 AM.

  70. #1370
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    Answers to your questions:

    1) Yes, why do you think there are 350+ pages of discussion on the topic of Chinese carbon frames between this thread and the Chinese Carbon thread on MTBR? They are a great value.

    2) I have the IP-036, it's a good frame. I don't have the IP-098, this is a newer frame. Have not seen any picture of one build yet or anyone providing feedback. You could be the first.

    3) See answer (1).

    4) If you have a good shock, the suspension is fine. Basically a single pivot design, works like any other single pivot suspension.

    5) Those are the common model numbers on the frame. I'd recommend ordering from Peter@Xmiplay.com, he speaks good English and provides shipping information.

  71. #1371
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    The IP098 looks like the LTK098 from LT Bikes. And I believe that LT Bike is the manufacturer.

  72. #1372
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    @Epic_Dude
    Thanks for response, mate!

    Actually Padyakero did build IP-098 bike. See post 1366 and pics (Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er - Page 55).
    And he did build it before his IP-036 bike. Would be nice to hear from him.

    These two suspensions are tecnichally more complex, than single pivot ones. They are 4-bar suspensions. Not Horst Link, of course, but 4-bar design allows some engineering to counter forces.
    Here is a useful article on the suspesion types:
    Part 1: Buyer's guide to mountain bike suspension, part 1 - BikeRadar
    Part 2: Buyer's guide to mountain bike suspension, part 2 - BikeRadar

    I think IP-098 and IP-036 fall under the (2) 'Faux bar' design. If I'm not mistaken.
    Last edited by Dawnkeeper; 08-26-2014 at 10:48 AM.

  73. #1373
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Answers to your questions:

    2) I have the IP-036, it's a good frame. I don't have the IP-098, this is a newer frame. Have not seen any picture of one build yet or anyone providing feedback. You could be the first.
    But hey! To a certain extent you are right! I've just closely compared IP-098 frame and the one Padyakero used to build his IP-098 bike. They are similar, but have a bit different shape of the front triangle.

    Look:
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-1__62654.1408228441.1280.1280.jpg
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    Are they different sizes of the same frame? Or newer and older revisions?

  74. #1374
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    Quote Originally Posted by aizu1 View Post
    The IP098 looks like the LTK098 from LT Bikes. And I believe that LT Bike is the manufacturer.
    Yep, saw that. Then saw this:
    Full carbon fiber 29 er suspension bike frame_深圳市迪赛体育运动器材有限公
    DSK098... Both manufacturers? Both resellers? One manufacturer, the other reseller? God knows. Or someone else, who has't posted here yet

  75. #1375
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    4) If you have a good shock, the suspension is fine.
    BTW could you please specify what you consider to be a 'good' shock for this frame? Will have to order one anyway, so any piece of info on this matter is great.

  76. #1376
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    I'm comparing the LTK088 and the XMIplay IP-036 as well for my first bike build. The LTK design looks a little more beefy and has better support for the lower shock mount to my untrained eye. Curious to see one built up and some thoughts on it as well.

  77. #1377
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dawnkeeper View Post
    But hey! To a certain extent you are right! I've just closely compared IP-098 frame and the one Padyakero used to build his IP-098 bike. They are similar, but have a bit different shape of the front triangle.

    Look:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Are they different sizes of the same frame? Or newer and older revisions?
    Hi Dawnkeeper,
    They are exactly the same frame, the picture you got I believe is size 17 or 19 while the one I built is size 15. Manufacturers just eliminated the small triangle on top of the seat-tube to achieve the 2 inch reduction from 17" to 15". If you take size 17 and bigger size, you'll get the frame in your picture.

    Regarding your questions, here is my take:

    1) Choosing a Chinese carbon over a well-known alum brand for me is purely a personal choice. On my case, I wanted to build a carbon MTB partly for the weight without busting my pocket. Anyone can build a non-carbon MTB and still achieve super lightweight bike but that would come at a high price. I was not being a cheapo by choosing the Chinese route, just being rational and with some research made a decision and never looked back.

    2) The IP-098 frame I built over a year ago was excellent, it was lightweight, stiff and strong and clean-looking, it also has full internal cable routing complete with hoseguides that minor issues like cable rattle becomes thing of the past. The only reason I let it go because size 15 was too small for me sometimes my shoe would contact the front tire when pedaling, this happens when my feet goes a little off position on the pedal. If you use cleats where your shoes are always in the proper position this will not be an issue or maybe if you use shorter crank-arm perhaps 165mm. My shoe size is 43 by the way and was using 170mm crank-arm length. Also since I was using only a 1X set-up, I found the FD direct mount adding an unnecessary clutter. Other than that I don't have any complain about the frame, in my over-a-year of riding XC trails, I didn't have any single instance of doubt about it's ride quality or it's safety. I shifted to IP-036 for a bigger size and I thought I like the looks of it better. Without the FD direct mount, it's seat-tube looks cleaner than the IP098 and more suited to my 1X set-up and I was right. However, I got a little disappointed because IP-036 cable routing isn't as clean as the IP-098. in the former, both brake and gear cables comes out close to the bottom bracket and needed to be zip-tied beneath the chainstays. Again, whether it is IP-098 or IP-036 is really a personal choice. Align your purposes, make a choice and accept the trade-offs as there will always be.

    3) In terms of build quality, there are some issues though not something that could make the bike dangerous to ride. One is Pivot bearings are sub-standard that most users just replace them right before starting to build. In my case I just greased them and tighten to the right torque and luckily didn't experience anymore plays or creaks in the links that other users have reported.

    4) Suspension quality really depends on the brand of shock you attached. MY IP-098 was equipped with Fox CTD kashima coated, and worked perfectly, no noticeable bobs, kickbacks or unusual compressions during braking.

    5) I don't know who exactly manufactures these frames but as Epic_Dude mentioned, Peter from iPlay has been a reliable supplier of these frames and made quite a lot of guys happy.

  78. #1378
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    New question here. Details on IP-098.

    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    Hi Dawnkeeper,
    Regarding your questions, here is my take:...
    Hi Padyakero!
    Thanks a lot! Really nice of you to provide such thorough feedback.

    Well, IP-098 it will be then

    Don't you mind if I ask you some specific questions concerning IP-098 frame? Offers on aliexpress and alibaba don't provide enough info, so it would be nice to know it before ordering.

    1) Fork of how much travel/length the frame is designed to be used with? (btw what is approximate rear travel?)

    2) Is the frame shipped with headset cups installed and rear axle? Which type of headset is needed for this frame?

    3) Rear brake rotor of which diameter the frame is designed to be used with? Are there restrictions for the diameter to be able to fit in the caliper?

    4) I saw this chart and was about to ask why did you install the rear shock the way you did. Meaning back to front.
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-lt098.jpg

    But then I saw another chart with the layout you had...
    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-dsk098.jpg
    It doesn't really matter which way to install it, does it? Did you try to install it the other way?

    5) Any problems installing hydrolic brakes and pulling lines through the internal routings?

    And by the way as far as offers on the Internet don't lie it is possible to choose not only the BottomBracket type, but also the type of carbon weave (3k,12k,UD) for the frame. Do you think it really matters or affects anything in anyway? Just appearance?

    Thanks again.

  79. #1379
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    @Dawnkeeper,

    The frame specification from manufacturer recommended 120mm travel fork so that's what I installed. For the rearshock I also installed the recommended 200x50mm but I didn't have the chance to measure the actual rear travel.

    Headset is tapered and bearing cups are integrated. You will have to order separately the headset bearings and rear axle unless supplier gives them to you for free.

    Frame is designed to take 160mm rear brake rotors. If it can take 180mm rotor or higher through an adaptor I didn't try so I can't say.

    I had to install the rearshock upside down because the shock mounting on the frame specifically on the tube that links the top to the downtube would contact the rearshock head. If that tube is perfectly perpendicular to the RS it would fit perfectly but as you may notice the mounting tube runs about 45deg diagonally on the RS. I am not sure though if this issue will still be there on a larger size frame, mine was size 15 or if you use other RS brand with thinner RS head.

    When you order the frame you can choose the weave type, paint finish (gloss or matte) as well as the BB type.

    Goodluck on your build

  80. #1380
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    Oh and about the carbon weave's (3k, 12k or UD) impact on frame strength, there's also a whole lot of online discussion which weave is stronger and lighter. I left it at the experts and just went for the 3k

  81. #1381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    Oh and about the carbon weave's (3k, 12k or UD) impact on frame strength, there's also a whole lot of online discussion which weave is stronger and lighter. I left it at the experts and just went for the 3k
    Reading my mind, Padyakero!

  82. #1382
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    BTW, installing the cables on IP-098 is a breeze. For the rear gear cable you enter from the top leftside push and viola, it exits right where you want it, just inches away from the rear dereailuer. For the rear brake, you have to uninstall the cable from the right brake lever assembly and start from the bottom, push and viola the cables exits right close to the headtube. You need to bleed it though since you uninstalled from the brake lever assembly. For the FD cable, it was difference and you need to cut the external hose since the frame routing accommodates only the inner cable.

  83. #1383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    BTW, installing the cables on IP-098 is a breeze. For the rear gear cable you enter from the top leftside push and viola, it exits right where you want it, just inches away from the rear dereailuer. For the rear brake, you have to uninstall the cable from the right brake lever assembly and start from the bottom, push and viola the cables exits right close to the headtube. You need to bleed it though since you uninstalled from the brake lever assembly. For the FD cable, it was difference and you need to cut the external hose since the frame routing accommodates only the inner cable.
    Do you mean that you can pull cables with hoses through every internal routing of the frame except the routing which leads to the FD? Does it already have a hose inside? Can't it be pulled out to pull one single hose from the shifter to the FD? Or there is no hose inside, just a straight tube of small diameter/section, which can accommodate only the cable itself?

    Oh, and just to doublecheck, how many routings are there? Is there one for rear shock lockout?
    Last edited by Dawnkeeper; 08-29-2014 at 10:33 AM.

  84. #1384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    BTW...
    BTW, thanks a lot You couldn't be more helpful!

  85. #1385
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    There are 4 routings in the frame (RD, rear brake, FD & RS remote lock-out) and three have hose guides, the other one for the RS remote cable I guess don't have. I couldn't be sure as I didn't use it anyway. The routing for the FD have hoseguide but it's small the external gear hose won't fit. I was on a 1X setup so didn't went to that length of trying to pull out the guide.

  86. #1386
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    http://www.abload.de/img/dsc01783ofs16.jpg
    http://www.abload.de/img/allmountainznsse.jpg

    Some information from LaMere of a new All Mountain Frame.
    What do you think?

  87. #1387
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    Whery interesting! Do you have a link to seller's site?

  88. #1388
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    lamerecycles.com.

    Nothing on their website as yet but just had an email from them today saying they are in the process of doing their first 650b build. Look forward to seeing it and how well it performs.

  89. #1389
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    Lamere charges a premium for selling you a HongFu frame, if I wanted a HM356, I would just buy direct. Unless you just want a complete bike and have no desire to build the bike yourself, in that case Lamere might be a good choice.

  90. #1390
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Lamere charges a premium for selling you a HongFu frame, if I wanted a HM356, I would just buy direct. Unless you just want a complete bike and have no desire to build the bike yourself, in that case Lamere might be a good choice.
    My thoughts as well but it would still be good to see their build. Wonder how they've managed to be one of the first to get the frame.

  91. #1391
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    Buying directly is for sure better in terms of price. But buying from Lamere may have its benifits in terms of quality (just a suggestion): buyind frames themselves to build their bikes Lamere should be doing some additional sorting rejecting defective frames if they come across such. So, just in theory, buying from Lamere would lower a chance of getting a defective piece.

  92. #1392
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dawnkeeper View Post
    Buying directly is for sure better in terms of price. But buying from Lamere may have its benifits in terms of quality (just a suggestion): buyind frames themselves to build their bikes Lamere should be doing some additional sorting rejecting defective frames if they come across such. So, just in theory, buying from Lamere would lower a chance of getting a defective piece.
    You do understand that Lamere does not buy bunches of frames ahead of time waiting for you to order a bike? When you place an order with Lamere, they then place an order with HongFu and get the frame for you. Really no different than you ordering the frame yourself, other than they offer a "Limited Lifetime Warranty." However, for the same frame you pay about 2x more, so in effect you purchase a second frame up front, then if it breaks, they will offer a warranty replacement.

    As for not getting a "defective" frame, Lamere is ordering from the same seller in China that you would, so if there is a defect, they would just work with the vendor to return the frame and get another, same as you could do.

    Yes, you don't need to deal with someone in China, but if you are willing to pay additional money to purchase from someone in the US, and have them build a bicycle for you, I would just go to a local bike shop. For similar costs, you would then have the support of a local shop near you to fix your bike when it breaks.

    The general idea here on this forum is for people wanting to be self sufficient, build a bike themselves, save money, and even learn how to maintain and repair their bike when needed.

  93. #1393
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    Well, sure, hard to argue.

  94. #1394
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    I just wanted to show you the newest All Mountain Frame, since there was no information on the websites so far. :-)
    I guess, I'm not the only one, who is looking for a All Mountain Frame. Travel Front and Rear is 150 mm by the way.
    So what do you think about the new frame? Geometry looks quite good to me.

    Sorry for my bad English

  95. #1395
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    You do understand that Lamere does not buy bunches of frames ahead of time waiting for you to order a bike? When you place an order with Lamere, they then place an order with HongFu and get the frame for you. Really no different than you ordering the frame yourself, other than they offer a "Limited Lifetime Warranty." However, for the same frame you pay about 2x more, so in effect you purchase a second frame up front, then if it breaks, they will offer a warranty replacement.

    As for not getting a "defective" frame, Lamere is ordering from the same seller in China that you would, so if there is a defect, they would just work with the vendor to return the frame and get another, same as you could do.

    Yes, you don't need to deal with someone in China, but if you are willing to pay additional money to purchase from someone in the US, and have them build a bicycle for you, I would just go to a local bike shop. For similar costs, you would then have the support of a local shop near you to fix your bike when it breaks.

    The general idea here on this forum is for people wanting to be self sufficient, build a bike themselves, save money, and even learn how to maintain and repair their bike when needed.
    Where can you reliably order a frame from?

  96. #1396
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    Q-factor?

    @Padyakero

    Do you remember what q-factor the crank had on your build IP-098, 156 or 168? (SRAM XX1)

    Or maybe some one else know what will fit the LTK-098.




    Quote Originally Posted by Padyakero View Post
    @Dawnkeeper,

    The frame specification from manufacturer recommended 120mm travel fork so that's what I installed. For the rearshock I also installed the recommended 200x50mm but I didn't have the chance to measure the actual rear travel.

    Headset is tapered and bearing cups are integrated. You will have to order separately the headset bearings and rear axle unless supplier gives them to you for free.

    Frame is designed to take 160mm rear brake rotors. If it can take 180mm rotor or higher through an adaptor I didn't try so I can't say.

    I had to install the rearshock upside down because the shock mounting on the frame specifically on the tube that links the top to the downtube would contact the rearshock head. If that tube is perfectly perpendicular to the RS it would fit perfectly but as you may notice the mounting tube runs about 45deg diagonally on the RS. I am not sure though if this issue will still be there on a larger size frame, mine was size 15 or if you use other RS brand with thinner RS head.

    When you order the frame you can choose the weave type, paint finish (gloss or matte) as well as the BB type.

    Goodluck on your build

  97. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmasta346 View Post
    Where can you reliably order a frame from?
    If you read through this thread and the other Chinese Carbon thread here on MTBR you will find a half dozen different vendors. Personally, I would suggest contacting Peter@xmiplay.cn if you are ready to place an order.

  98. #1398
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    Anyone having creaking issues. My friend and I built up an 036 about two years ago. Now he is having creaking issues. My guess is that the bearings need servicing, but I am now living 800 miles from him so it's tough for me to diagnose. Has anyone else had a creaking issue with their 036? If so could you diagnose the problem?

  99. #1399
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    Quote Originally Posted by nbwallace View Post
    Anyone having creaking issues. My friend and I built up an 036 about two years ago. Now he is having creaking issues. My guess is that the bearings need servicing, but I am now living 800 miles from him so it's tough for me to diagnose. Has anyone else had a creaking issue with their 036? If so could you diagnose the problem?
    Had a few at first, tracked it down to the top four pivots that attaches the H shaped pivot link between the shock and the rear triangle. Tried greasing all the pivot hardware but that did not seem to help. Put a few drops of lube on each of the pivots, doing so quieted down all the creaking. For my frame, I think there was some carbon-to-carbon contact that was causing the frame to creak a bit.

    Last couple rides have been very quiet too. I've asked other IP-036 owners about creaking and the few replies I received said they did not have any creaking issues.

    So, after two years, has your friend disassembled the frame and serviced (cleaned & re-greased) all the pivot joints? I think this is something I would do every year or so.

  100. #1400
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    its done...400kms and so far so good

    Pivot points needs to be tighten to spec or it will make sounds

    Dont use shocks larger than 200x50 or the frame might break when it bottoms out.. even at 200x50 the gap is quite small when compressed.

    Cant use rotors higher than 160mm or the caliper will hit the frame.

    I am using a 140mm fork and it is fine. I think 150mm in the front is the max...

    Have to cut, bleed the hydraulic brake cable before routing which I haven't done yet..

    Love the frame.. I am still tweaking it after ever ride.. seat.. air in shock/fork..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-20140828_015300.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-20140828_015233.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-20140902_152201.jpg  

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon  29er-20140902_152210.jpg  


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