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  1. #201
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    I am 5'11" too and I went for a large. Very happy with it!

    This shows where my seat and my bars are, pretty normal:



    The ETT of the Atlas simply is a very strange measurement on this bike. It really is not very useful for predicting fit, nor is the seat angle. My former bike was a Large Giant Anthem 29er. It has an ETT of 24.2". I put my saddle at the same horizontal and vertical distance from the BB, used the exact same stem and bars as the Anthem and the saddletip-bars measurement is exactly the same!

    My hardtail has a 24" ETT too and I use moderate setback and a 90 mm stem. So... you need even more cockpit length than me!

    Get a large. Don't get a medium. To me Devinci's size advice is right on the money. You are right you will need a very large stem on a medium. Chances are this bike will feel awkward. It'll be very nervous too, because it's a very short wheelbase bike to begin with.

    You'll just have to be carefull with a dropper seatpost. If you have shorter legs than me and a 125mm Reverb like me, you will hit the wider part of the seatpost before you reached your seat height.

  2. #202
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    I'm 5'10 and went with a Large. I do have short leggs and the dropperpost could not have been lower. Very happy with my size. On this bike reach is more accurate then TT due to the slack seattube. You would need to move the seat forward to compensate, so your TT would in real be shorter than whats in the geo-sheet. Also, for Atlas, are you in between sizes, general recomendations is to go up.

  3. #203
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    Thanks for the feedback. For a sanity check, would you guys mind sharing your stem length and saddle-tip to bar measurements?

  4. #204
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    My saddle-tip to centre of bars distance is about 58.

    Stem length is 90 mm, bars are 710 wide. If you run bars less wide, you'll need a bit more stem length to get your upper body to the same angle.

  5. #205
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    Which type of front derailleur can be used with the Atlas Carbon. Is it a high mount or low mount (S1 , S2, S3) direct mount version?

    Thanks

  6. #206
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    If you're interested, I'm selling a medium Atlas Carbon RC with a White Brothers 120mm fork in the classifieds. I've got a lot of love for this bike, but finally decided that I need a bigger frame. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!

    Devinci Atlas Carbon, medium, 120mm WB fork - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

  7. #207
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    ---

    ---
    Last edited by murphyo7; 10-23-2013 at 06:33 AM.

  8. #208
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    2014 Frames

    The 2014 frames are on the website. Carbon seatstays, simplified flip chips like the Troy, and a $200 bump in price look like the big changes. They also went back to a FOX CTD shock. Still have the press fit BB and integrated HS. Disappointing, I was hoping that the alloy model would at least get a real BB & HS.

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-2014-frame-atlas-carbon-blanc_.jpg

    I've been running a 27 in rear wheel and the flip chips on HI to slacken out the front end a bit. I like it a lot better this way. The only difference I can tell is that I sometimes lose traction for a second on a steep loose climb I have near my house. Same tire just different size, 2.25 RaRa.

  9. #209
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    I like the black and white color combo better than the coral snake one. Also, the only experience I had with rockshox rear shocks was not positive, so I see move to Fox as a positive. The carbon stays should drop a little weight. I also like the shift to shimano slx on the rc build, though I'm surprised that no xx1/x01 combo is offered.

    All in all, positive changes from my POV, with the exception of the price bump. I wonder if they are shipping the 2014 model now?

  10. #210
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    So bought this nice frame (Devinci atlas carbon 2013) Large at 30% sale and want to gear it with a nice xx1 groupset... To be sure, I need a SRAM BB92 GXP PressFit MTB, and gxp cranks, but what about Qfactor ? Is there room for Q156 ?

    for the fork I am looking at a x-fusion trace 120mm
    XT brakes probably...

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-capture-d-cran-2013-09-26-8.08.09-pm.jpg

    thanks !!
    can't wait to build this :-0

  11. #211
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    You'll love the Trace, sorry I can't help with the other things I do have the XTR trail brakes and they are phenomenal. I have heard the same about the XT's.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    You'll love the Trace, sorry I can't help with the other things I do have the XTR trail brakes and they are phenomenal. I have heard the same about the XT's.
    haha ;-)

    and for those who wonder, the frame (large size) as it is now (with rear axle and plastic tube over it) weights 6 pounds

    As for the crankset I think I will go with Q-168 to be sure....

  13. #213
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    Does the new Atlas carbon frame 2014 come the cable routing for a dropper post ?
    I just checked with Performance they say they will carry the Devinci line for 2014.
    I have a ton of points with Performance I am hoping to order an Atlas Frame from them.

  14. #214
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    The 2013 model allready had dropper post cable mounts, all external. The front has not changed in 2014 by the looks of it.

  15. #215
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    So the rear is the only change ? They changed the rear to carbon ?

  16. #216
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    yes and some simplification on the eccentric pivot to change geometry

    DEVINCI

  17. #217
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    Thanks , I have been looking at the Czar and the Mach 429 its hard to look pass the Atlas with the frame guarantee and If I buy from Performance its a lifetime satisfaction too. It would be nice to Demo this bike as well as the others . From reading the reviews they our all great bikes.

  18. #218
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon-13-1.jpg

    Here's mine. 2014 frame. XX1 build kit moved over from my old bike. Reba fork, Crest/Hope wheels, XT brakes. Comes to 23.8lbs on my scale. Frame was 5.75 lbs with the rear axle.

    Large is definitely the right size for me at 5' 10.5". I could even see running a 100mm stem instead of the 90mm I current have.

    The build up was pretty easy. Cable routing was a pain. 5mm housing will not fit in the little hole they have in the chainstay, so I had to find 4mm. Even then, it's a tight fit. Forget about trying to install it with the crankset in place.

    I had one short shakedown ride after the build. Initial impressions are quite good. It handles very well and the stiffness is noticeable. I have no idea if I'm in 'low' or 'high' mode - will have to figure that out when I have more daylight.

    Thanks for everyone here for feedback, and thanks to Wes at www.pinkgorillabicycles.com | for establishing a dealership so I could get one locally...

  19. #219
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    Nice build !
    Mine (2013) is almost complete too... xx1, with xt brakes ;-)...
    Had the same problem with 5mm housing and also went for 4mm and we managed to install it with the 32t crankset installed...

    for the hi-lo settings, here is the difference on the 2013 frames :

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-capture-d-cran-2013-10-23-2.30.54-pm.jpg

    but I know they changed some parts in there for 2014...

  20. #220
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    Build finally complete !
    large frame (I'm 5'10 1/2")
    - xx1 (q168, 170mm)
    - xt brakes
    - X-fusion trace RL2 set at 120mm
    - stan's flow ex rim and hubs
    - 700mm crankbrothers handlebar

    maxxis Ardent 2,25 LUST rear and WTB bronson race 2.2 front, both tubeless

    weight is 27 pounds with pedals

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_2180.jpg
    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_2181.jpg
    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_2182.jpg
    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_2183.jpg
    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_2184.jpg

    gonna ride it this afternoon :-)

  21. #221
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    SWEET bike your gonna love that fork. Give us a good review when you get back from your ride.

  22. #222
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    Looks great. I was torn between the red/yellow and white. I like the matte finish better, but preferred white over red/yellow. Both look great.

    I've gotten a few good rides in. Here's a report that I posted on a website local to me:

    I did 22 miles on the trails at Brushy Creek last night. I'm not a suspension aficionado. I've never had a shock 'pushed', avoid ones with multiple levers/doodads because it's just more stuff to mess up, and tend to limit my 'tuning' to setting air pressure to a level that works for me. To me, a great suspension is one that makes me more comfortable, makes the bike more controllable, but is otherwise transparent. I've been on Horst link bikes for the last 12 years or so because they came closest to that - only faltering, imo, on out-of-saddle pedaling. I went with something else this time because Ellsworth has priced themselves out of my market, and I wanted to try something different.

    The suspension on the Atlas works very well, ime. It has more of a 'platform', and as such, does noticeably better with out of saddle pedaling. I was afraid this would mean lots of pedal kick back, but I didn't notice it on the trail. The bike has a nice mix of proper pedaling manners, while still being plush enough to soak up chatter. I don't like super plush bikes, so YMMV - but it works fine for me. Traction for climbing was good as well. In theory, the DW Split Link should let the frame designer pick a pivot location that pedals well, without having to worry about that location negatively impacting braking. It seems to deliver. The bike pedaled very well and still braked well in the chatter.

    The bike itself is very stable. It's a bit slacker and a bit shorter than what I was on before. The front of the bike is very easy to lift up over obstacles, and the shorter wheelbase makes it seem like you're riding a smaller bike. I didn't have any issues keeping the front end planted when climbing, but Brushy Creek doesn't really have too much super steep sketchy stuff, so I'll need more time on it to fully evalutate.

    The bottom bracket is a bit lower than my old bike, too - at least in the 'low' geometry setting the bike is currently set at. I had a few pedal strikes - nothing super out of the ordinary. I'll give it a few more rides to see if I adjust - if not, I'll switch to the 'high' geometry setting.

    The bike is noticeably stiffer than the Evolve. I'm 160-ish pounds and never really thought I was flexing the Ellsworth, but there's a true difference in how the back end of the bike tracks. How much of that is chainstay length vs frame materials/build, I don't know - but it a definite positive change.

    All in all, very positive initial experiences. I was more tired than usual on this ride due to lack of sleep and a busy work schedule. I tend to notice 'defects' a lot more when I'm tired - so having a positive experience on a new bike that's very different while chasing X-Ray through 22 miles of trail is a high compliment. I also -love- how light the bike is. It just feels fast.

    In short, if you want a bike that pedals well, handles well, rides more like a 26er, but has the benefits of 29" wheels, and is a good value compared to other carbon bikes out there, check out the Atlas. Wes has (or will have) a demo Atlas for folks to try out.
    All in all, I'm very pleased. I'm still working on positioning on the bike - having lowered and flipped the stem to put the bars a bit lower. I'm going to try a 100mm stem, too. It definitely does not fit like a 25" tt imo - much more like the 24" I came off of.

  23. #223
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    does the SP squat, or wallow? notably when transitioning from flat to steep, or g-outs etc. what's it feel like climbing over square edges? do you get much bob when standing?

    I'm only familiar with FSR and Maestro suspensions.

  24. #224
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    posted in the wrong spot
    Last edited by vwvoodoo; 10-25-2013 at 12:40 PM. Reason: wrong spot
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  25. #225
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    Under power, the suspension holds up better than the Horst link bikes I've ridden on steeper climbing. If you're not under power, any resistance to squatting is going to be fully dependent on the shock. Bob when standing is the same - under power the bike stiffens up more than the horst link bikes I've ridden so it stays up in the travel better, but if you just are standing on the pedals and bouncing, it's going to move as much as the shock lets it. I've not noticed any wallow. I don't have enough time on it to speak to square edge bumps. It's a single pivot axle path, so it shouldn't be dramatically different than similarly laid out single pivots, faux bar or even Horst.

  26. #226
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    Got two 10km nice ride on it , with some snow too...
    first time my saddle was set too far and climbing suffered but I'm getting the position dialed now and the bike feels great ! A couple of PR on strava too so not slow at all... Too many new things for me to analyse what is doing what but I do love the fork and xx1 is really quiet and shifting sharp... love it !

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-capture-d-cran-2013-10-25-6.02.47-pm.jpg

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-capture-d-cran-2013-10-25-6.02.58-pm.jpg

  27. #227
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    TechniKal nice review

  28. #228
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    going to demo a '12 atlas c in a couple of days. I weigh around 230lbs geared up. Any recommendations on what I should setup the shock pressure to start with?

    really excited to test ride this bike. it's been on my shortlist for awhile.

  29. #229
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    Anybody using anglesets to slack the head angle out? Liking the new Kona 111 geometry but would rather have this frame I think.

  30. #230
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    I don't think there's an angleset that'll work with the integrated headset the frame uses.

    On shock setup, I'm running about 10% more than my body weight. This is on the 2014 frame that uses the Fox rear shock. Don't know if that would vary on the frames running Rockshock.

  31. #231
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    my updated review:

    Since weather conspires to keep my from riding my new bike, I thought I'd post more thoughts about it... Full disclosure - I hassled Wes to bring in Devinci and, as such, want to see them succeed. Wes is also a good friend so I want to see him succeed. That said, I wouldn't promote something I didn't like...

    I've gotten several good rides in, managed to get my position dialed in and the suspension set up in a way that's comfortable to me.

    I'll start with the cons. There are 2 things I don't like about the bike, and both are related. The 'wings' on the downtube where the shock mounts are solid, and as such capture water and muck. That's dislike #1. Dislike #2 is that this water and muck accumulation makes the shock pivot creak. It's amplified on the carbon frame. A shot of WD40 fixes it - at least until the next wetter ride. Assuming we finally see an end to this biblical rain, this shouldn't be a long term concern, but it's annoying. I think I'll try out those needle bearing shock mounts to see if it resolves the problem. Oh - and dislike #3 - cable routing is a pain in the ass. WTF do people think internal cable routing is a positive thing? The main frame uses external routing, which is nice, functional and simple - but they use internal through the chainstay. It's impossible to fit 5mm housing. It's hard to run with the crank installed. It hard to measure correct housing length. So, due to some fashion statement, I have a bunch of 5mm housing that doesn't work, and it took me 30 minutes longer to build the bike than it otherwise would have. Luckily it uses full length housing, so I won't have to deal with it often - but life would be better without internal routing.

    Now onto the Pros. The suspension on this bike works well. Really well. Really, really well... I know all about single pivot axle path and whatnot - but the combination of pivot location, chainstay length and shock tune work together to really make an enjoyable ride on the trail. I run the shock in 'descend' mode exclusively, and it's more stable than the horst bikes I've owned with propedal. Pedaling does extend the suspension, and it's noticeable if you're looking for it riding around on pavement, but on the trail it rocks. The back of the bike stays up when climbing, and hard efforts are rewarded by pushing the back tire more firmly into the ground, giving better traction. The suspension is still active enough to ride through stuff rather than over it. Braking continues to be superb. As I've said before, I'm not the type to notice all the nuances of suspension setup, and personally believe that almost all designs today are 'good enough', and that most improvements are on the margins of performance - but after being a horst link bigot for years, I really, really like pedaling this bike. It works like I think a suspension bike should.

    The handling is very stable. I'm no longer 'sawing' the bars like I did on my Evolve. This is another of those old time bigotries I have to put aside. I have always avoided slacker bikes as I assumed they'd handle like crap for anyone riding slower, more technical trails. While the Atlas isn't super slack by today's standards at 69d HT angle, it's a lot slacker than what I'm used to. The feared 'floppiness' of the front end is not present. I stick to my line better. I can ride on top of curbs pretty much indefinitely. The bike goes where I point it. Add in the shorter chainstays, and the bike is a blast. There are sections of trail where I always struggled with 'pulling' the rear tire around that are no longer an issue. But I still have the stability I love about 29ers due to the slacker angles and big wheels.

    I'm still getting used to the Reba fork. It's not as plush as the Fox I'm used to. It's also strange that it 'shortens' based on how much air pressure you run. Ex - I set it up at 25% sag, it stays at 10% sag even when I'm not on the bike. This has something to do with the negative air spring, I assume, but I spent an hour fretting that I'd ordered a 100mm fork instead of a 120mm. The Rockshock thru axle makes a lot more sense than Fox's. I like that it expands to lock both sides of the fork together.

    When moving to this bike, I went with a longer TT and shorter stem - from 24"tt / 110mm stem to a 25"tt / 90mm stem. The setup works well. My weight is biased more to the rear of the bike. Combined with the short stays, I can actually wheelie (though not gracefully, but hey - it's better than I usually do) and getting the front end up on ledges, or making dramatic line changes is very easy. I was concerned that this setup would result in too little weight on the front tire, killing high speed handling and climbing, but I haven't seen it. I think keeping the overall reach the same keeps the weight balance manageable.

    Fit and finish of the bike is good. It's not an Ellsworth or a Turner, with all the beautiful machine work - there's nothing polished, nothing twisted into impossibly beautiful shapes - but it's well made and costs considerably less. The comparable Ellsworth carbon frame I was looking at is over $1000 more, which is kind of silly, even for a bike snob like me.

    IMO, this is a perfect bike for Austin trails. It's light. It climbs well. It descends well. It's stable. It's fun. It's reasonably priced. I'm happy with my purchase - would be much happier if it would stop raining so I could actually ride more...

  32. #232
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    Yes I have . Is a matter of fact I am selling an angle set off my hard tail . My new bike is already slack. I really like the angle set. adds 1.5 degrees slacker

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark59 View Post
    TechniKal nice review
    +1!

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by confused View Post
    Anybody using anglesets to slack the head angle out? Liking the new Kona 111 geometry but would rather have this frame I think.
    Consider the RX model with the 140mm fork (or build up a frame with a longer fork) as a little bit of a closer match to the 111. Last time I checked the Devinci website they didn't have all the correct geometry numbers for the RX model to reflect the longer fork, depending where you look. In the low setting with a 140 fork it should be 68.5ļ HTA.

  35. #235
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    For folks that installed the needle bearing shock pivot - did this solve the creaking issue permanently?

    Mine creaks - I clean it up, regrease, torque it properly and it'll quiet down for an hour or two of riding, then it starts making noise again. I don't want to mess with changing the hardware if it's not going to solve the problem.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    For folks that installed the needle bearing shock pivot - did this solve the creaking issue permanently?

    Mine creaks - I clean it up, regrease, torque it properly and it'll quiet down for an hour or two of riding, then it starts making noise again. I don't want to mess with changing the hardware if it's not going to solve the problem.
    Mine actually did help. I was having the exact same problem. I am actually getting ready to sell my 2013 Devinci Atlas Carbon, size medium. I have been riding it since June coming off of a Turner Sultan and the Atlas is a great bike, but just a little racier than what I want. I miss the monster truck feel of the Sultan, however I will miss the playful short chainstays. I will be ordering the necessary parts to put most everything back on the Sultan. The frame will be sold with the CC headset, a Raceface bottom bracket and a Shimano XT front derailleur. I also have two different forks that I would entertain selling with the frame if interested: 2014 Fox 120mm Float 32mm 15mmQR. Fork is mint and only ridden for two rides. The other is a Rockshox Revelation 140mm RCT with 20mm maxle. Both forks are black. Also have other parts that were color cordinated with frame: handlebars, seatpost, saddle, crankset. Let me know if there is any interest out there and I can post pics.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    For folks that installed the needle bearing shock pivot - did this solve the creaking issue permanently?

    Mine creaks - I clean it up, regrease, torque it properly and it'll quiet down for an hour or two of riding, then it starts making noise again. I don't want to mess with changing the hardware if it's not going to solve the problem.
    I just built mine out and after 2 ride it was creaking . Strip down all the upper pivots, (did not want to take off cranks for lower so shot some Liquid Chain lube in there) and took out shock and lightly greased EVERYTHING. Most of my creaking I think was at the hi/lo pivot point which appears that King Kong tightened up at the Devinci factory , also already had grit/sand between pivots there also . See how long it stays creak free.

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by shutterbug67 View Post
    Mine actually did help. I was having the exact same problem. I am actually getting ready to sell my 2013 Devinci Atlas Carbon, size medium. I have been riding it since June coming off of a Turner Sultan and the Atlas is a great bike, but just a little racier than what I want. I miss the monster truck feel of the Sultan, however I will miss the playful short chainstays. I will be ordering the necessary parts to put most everything back on the Sultan. The frame will be sold with the CC headset, a Raceface bottom bracket and a Shimano XT front derailleur. I also have two different forks that I would entertain selling with the frame if interested: 2014 Fox 120mm Float 32mm 15mmQR. Fork is mint and only ridden for two rides. The other is a Rockshox Revelation 140mm RCT with 20mm maxle. Both forks are black. Also have other parts that were color cordinated with frame: handlebars, seatpost, saddle, crankset. Let me know if there is any interest out there and I can post pics.
    Shutterbug I would be interested in the frame and headset. If possible please send info and pics to me.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by bervin View Post
    Shutterbug I would be interested in the frame and headset. If possible please send info and pics to me.
    Last edited by shutterbug67; 11-12-2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: adding pics

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    For folks that installed the needle bearing shock pivot - did this solve the creaking issue permanently?

    Mine creaks - I clean it up, regrease, torque it properly and it'll quiet down for an hour or two of riding, then it starts making noise again. I don't want to mess with changing the hardware if it's not going to solve the problem.
    Mine creaked from the first few weeks that I rode it. Taking the suspension apart would stop it for a short period, then it would start back up. Tried everything, grease, torque, new shock mount hardware etc etc. Devinci has just replaced the frame with the 2014 model, with the Fox Shock. Hopefully this will solve the problem as I spent all summer working on this thing instead of riding it. My diagnosis is that the metal post that goes through the upper shock mount is 1.5 mm longer than the length of the shock eyelet and the reducers. I could grab the top of the shock and slide it back and forth. I believe that lead to premature wear on the shock mount hardware, This is also the first bike where I have had to replace a full bearing kit, after only riding it for a month. If you want to see the play in the shock mount, send me a pm and I'll forward you a link to the video that shows the play.

  41. #241
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    Well creaking started back up after 2 rides again. This time stopped a half dozen times on the last half of my ride dismounting the bike and could get it to creak by compressing and flexing the bike. Was able to feel and hear were the creaking was coming from and itís definitely the top shock mount/rocker arms.

    At home took top shock mount apart and what I thought was interesting is the top shock bolt/post is quite a bit smaller diameter/loose going through the rocker arms, it tight going through the shock hardware though. So I donít know if that has anything to do with it.

    Anyways I wrapped the whole bolt/post with a tight layer of Teflon tape, tapped it back in and put it back together. We will see how long this lasts.

    This is a great and fun bike. But there is no way I can live with this creaking, it extremely annoying and ruined my ride today.

  42. #242
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    I've had better luck with Anti-seize stopping the creak than grease, but it still comes back. I have one of the needle bearing mounts but haven't had a chance to install it.

    Two things I've noticed that may contribute to the creak. First, the shock hardware is very tight fit in the rocker arm. So tight that if I can't reinstall the shock without backing the chainstay and seatpost pivot bolts on the rocker arm back a bit. This is on a 2014 frame with the new Fox plastic bushings.

    Second thing I've noticed is that I can get the creaking to stop simply by loosening and retightening the upper shock bolt. I don't have to clean it. I use a torque wrench, so I'm consistent with getting it back to the same level. It seems like something is "binding" and loosening the bolt lets everything settle. Makes no sense, but I have no better explanation.

    I'll try to get the needle bearing mount in this week and see if it helps. The anti seize is lasting for 10 or so hours of riding, so I'm not as frantic about fixing it.

    Also, if you want needle bearings but don't care about the bling of the nice kit RWC sells, you can pick up the ABI needle bearing kit for a lot less $. Most local bike stores should be able to order it, too. I believe this is the right size:

    Enduro Rear Shock Needle Bearing Kits (100118121) at CambriaBike.com

  43. #243
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    I know your frustration . I have been single speeding for years with different frame materials all at some point start creaking. I have been so keen and sensitive to creaking over the years of riding . I just bought the new Trek Remedy and there is no creaking because Trek designed the bottom bracket different there is no shell around the bearing its built into the frame. And Trek also makes a bearing that is supposed to be 1000 over size if there is an issue with the orginal . It appears Trek did their home work with these new BB designs.
    I just sold a carbon Lurcher On One and it was creaking so bad the BB30 would slide into the frame with ease. I even demoed a S Works Enduro and I could here creaking coming from the bottom bracket. I had my eye on the Atlas . But once I heard about the Trek being a none issue with the creaking I headed in that direction. I love the bike. I was pretty much dead set against any bearing inside the frame until I heard the feed back of Trek owners. For some of us who cannot live with creaking and other various noise it can be extremely annoying. Hope you find some solution . Thanks for sharing and be honest.

  44. #244
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    Knock on wood, but I've had no issues with the bottom bracket making noise. I went with one of the Enduro / KCNC ones, it fits securely and has been silent. We've had more rain and dealt with more water crossings in the last month that we do a typical year, so I'm pleased so far. It's just something funky going on with the upper shock mount.

  45. #245
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    Good luck thats probably better then a BB issue.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post

    Two things I've noticed that may contribute to the creak. First, the shock hardware is very tight fit in the rocker arm. So tight that if I can't reinstall the shock without backing the chainstay and seatpost pivot bolts on the rocker arm back a bit. This is on a 2014 frame with the new Fox plastic bushings.

    Second thing I've noticed is that I can get the creaking to stop simply by loosening and retightening the upper shock bolt. I don't have to clean it. I use a torque wrench, so I'm consistent with getting it back to the same level. It seems like something is "binding" and loosening the bolt lets everything settle. Makes no sense, but I have no better explanation.
    So you are still having the same type of creaking issues in the 2014? My replacement 2014 frame is waiting for me to build it up, but if it is going to creak like the 2013 then I don't want anything to do with it.

    My 2013 was the same in that simply loosening the top shock mount would temporarily make the creak go away, but twenty minutes later it would return. Everyone should be on the phone with Devinci customer service with this, they know they have an issue with this bike. My shop and I have both been in contact with head office, and my bike sat there for nearly two months this summer before they replaced the frame.
    Last edited by cdn_hammer; 11-21-2013 at 11:42 AM.

  47. #247
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    I doubt that the needle bearings are going to solve the issue, though it might help a little. Think this is more of an issue with the way the top rocker arms are holding the top shock/mounting hardware. Only time I was getting creaking the other day was when I put a side load/flex on the top shock mounting hardware. I did not even have to compress the shock to get it to creak, just flex the it side ways with a load.

    I think the issue might be as simple as the top rocker arms holes being too big for the top shock post/bolt. If you put the post/bolt through just the rocker arms (without the shock) there is a ton of play in it. So it seems like this is allowing the top of the shock to shift within the rocker arms under side load, thus the creaking.

  48. #248
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    Here is the video I took of the play in the top shock mount. As I stated in an earlier post, the metal post that goes through the shock eye is longer than the total distance of the shock eyelet and the reducers, thus allowing the top of the shock to rock back and forth with any side loading. I feel that this is at least 'part' of the issue with the shock mount and the incessant creaking.



    Quote Originally Posted by In2falling View Post
    I doubt that the needle bearings are going to solve the issue, though it might help a little. Think this is more of an issue with the way the top rocker arms are holding the top shock/mounting hardware. Only time I was getting creaking the other day was when I put a side load/flex on the top shock mounting hardware. I did not even have to compress the shock to get it to creak, just flex the it side ways with a load.

    I think the issue might be as simple as the top rocker arms holes being too big for the top shock post/bolt. If you put the post/bolt through just the rocker arms (without the shock) there is a ton of play in it. So it seems like this is allowing the top of the shock to shift within the rocker arms under side load, thus the creaking.

  49. #249
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    yeah - mine's a 2014 and creaks, though doesn't sound as dramatic as yours. With grease, I was getting a couple of hours of silence. With anti-seize, it's 5-10 hours.

    I haven't checked to see how much play exists in the rocker arm holes. I was surprised to see a serrated nut and a shoulder bolt used. I thought serrated nuts were typically only used on softer materials like wood. And the shoulder bolt step down makes the nut an awful wimpy size, though I guess there's not much side load pressure to worry about.

  50. #250
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    So how come mine does not creak and has not for half a year? Not sure if this is a design problem or a few bikes off spec.

    Like I said earlier: My bike made some noise initially, but after cleaning all the excess grease off every pivot point of and tightening the bolts, things were fine and they stayed that way.

  51. #251
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    I found some really thin nylon washers in the garage today. So took it apart and placed them between rocker arms and shock hardware, wrapping the post again with some Teflon tape and torqued it a little past spec to 70 in lbs.

    Was wrong about play with the post and the rocker arms, play seems to be about the same through the rocker arms and shock. Will see how it does next week, will be happy if I can get a good 20 hours of creak free riding.

  52. #252
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    I also tried the nylon washer trick. Seemed promising at first, but only for the first 1/2 hour or so.

  53. #253
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    I installed the needle bearing shock hardware today. I noticed I can now reinstall the shock without having to loosen the pivot points. Unfortunately, we continue to have an unusual amount of rain here, so the trails are too wet to ride. The 'press the crank sideways and flex the hell out of the bike' test results in silence from the shock area, but I don't usually have much noise after reinstalling the mounting hardware. I'll get some rides in after it dries up and report back.

  54. #254
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    Well I am up to 4 hours of creak free riding with the nylon washers and the Teflon tape. See how it does this next week.

    On another note, got my Kind Shock eTen dropper seat post installed. Took it out on some rougher/steeper technical trails and handled everything very well. Not as fast and fun as my Nomad but still took those trails well. Also got some more riding in tight twisty semi technical single track and this bike is a blast and shines in that stuff.

  55. #255
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    Hate to post and jinx myself, but I have several long rides in now with the needle bearing kit, including a couple of ones with water crossings, which tend to make it creak, and it's been completely silent. I hope it stays that way...

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    Hate to post and jinx myself, but I have several long rides in now with the needle bearing kit, including a couple of ones with water crossings, which tend to make it creak, and it's been completely silent. I hope it stays that way...
    My nylon washers, Teflon tape and torquing to high end of spec seems to be working, have about 5 good quite rides now.

  57. #257
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    According to Devinci's website the geometry changed slightly with the 2014 carbon model from the 2013 model. The head angle now shows 70.4 (from 71.3 in 2013) in the high position and the bb height is 13.4" (from 13.1") in the high position. Has anyone measured their 2013 Atlas HA and bb height with a 120mm fork? I'm curious to see if they much the website published numbers.

    Also it looks like a few people like the size large who are about 5'-10". I'm just over 5'-10" with a 32" inseam and wanted to make sure the 2013 large would not be too big.

    Thanks.


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  58. #258
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    I don't have a 2013 to measure, but I'm sure the only change in geometry is because they started shipping with 120mm forks. I don't think the main frame changed at all.

    On sizing, I'm just over 5' 10" and am on a large. I recently moved to a 100mm stem from the 90mm I started with as I wanted a touch more reach. In comparison, I was on a Medium Ellsworth Evolve prior to this bike. I would find the medium Atlas to be too small.

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraydp View Post
    Also it looks like a few people like the size large who are about 5'-10". I'm just over 5'-10" with a 32" inseam and wanted to make sure the 2013 large would not be too big.
    I'm 5'11" with a 33.5 inseam and I have a medium 2012 aluminum Atlas, which has a shorter ETT than the carbon version. The large would be too big for me. But I prefer a shorter cockpit and a more upright riding position.

  60. #260
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    You are seeing different geo from '13-'14 because the '13 geo numbers are with 100mm fork and '14 with 120mm fork. Size large will be too big. Atlas carbon frames are big. Find a 29er frame you already know fits you and compare top tube lengths. Small atlas carbon is same size as tallboy carbon medium. Atlas is more fun though! Shorter chain stays are a game changer for a 29er. Btw, I'm 5'8" and the small fits me perfectly

  61. #261
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    Top tube length on the atlas measures abnormally long due to the slack seat tube angle. If you keep your saddle positioned consistent to the bottom bracket, the extra length of the virtual top tube won't impact fit. Compare the 'reach' measurement instead. That's the top tube length measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the head tube. The atlas matches well size wise with other bikes when compared this way.

    Also, if your current bike fits well, measure from the tip of the saddle to the center of the stem at the head tube and get folks here on different sizes to share theirs so you can compare. I was torn on sizing, too, but realized I'd need to go with a 130mm stem on the medium to keep the same reach I was comfortable with on my evolve. Different strokes for different folks, obviously, and you should test ride if you can, but for me at a little over 5' 10", I'm happy with the large.

  62. #262
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    For reference (all this measure in a straight line point to point)- on my large atlas, measurement from the saddle tip to the center of the stem at the head tube is right at 18". My saddle height is about 29" from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle. I'm using a zero offset seatpost with the saddle essentially centered on the clamp.

  63. #263
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    I'm 5'9 with a 60mm stem riding a medium - I can't imagine going with a large at 5'10 unless you wanted an extremely long cockpit and were never going to use a dropper post. The seat tube is pretty long, so you will have very little post exposed...
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  64. #264
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    I don't run a dropper post. I have about 7Ē of post exposed between the clamp and binder. Don't know if that's enough for a dropper or not.

    Fwiw I don't feel like I run an especially long cockpit. Standard XC setup, 685mm flat bars.

  65. #265
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    I demoed a guys M with a 90mm stem, with 120mm fork. I wanted a L, for sure. Especially if you're considering the 140mm fork. Your reach will shrink the longer the fork gets. Devinci website's geo numbers on the atlas with the 140 fork are incorrect, I assume, since they're the same as the 120 version. I'm 5-10.5

  66. #266
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    Did someone ride both the aluminium and the carbon Atlas?
    What do you think about the difference between the two?
    Is the carbon as stiff or stiffer than the alu?
    I have an alu and I'm considering swapping for a carbon;
    the geometry table show a longer TT for the carbon version and that would be nice for me. What else can I expect from the swap, apart the 300g difference?

  67. #267
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    Re: Devinci Atlas Carbon

    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    Did someone ride both the aluminium and the carbon Atlas?
    What do you think about the difference between the two?
    Is the carbon as stiff or stiffer than the alu?
    I have an alu and I'm considering swapping for a carbon;
    the geometry table show a longer TT for the carbon version and that would be nice for me. What else can I expect from the swap, apart the 300g difference?
    As far as I know, there is also the issue of 2012 is carbon front and aluminum triangle, while 2013 is all carbon.

    sent remotely

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by squareback View Post
    As far as I know, there is also the issue of 2012 is carbon front and aluminum triangle, while 2013 is all carbon.

    sent remotely
    As far as I know, 2013 is carbon front and alu rear triangle, while the new 2014 has carbon seat stays in addition (with alu chain stays).

    I was looking at an used 2013, but any thought about the carbon vs alu is welcome.

  69. #269
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    It looks like you have XTR cranks on your bike. Do you have any clearance issues with the chain stays? I installed my M985s and the left crank arm barely clears.

  70. #270
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    Still no creaking after the needle bearing install. I don't know why it fixes it, but it seems to. Less than $20 and 10 min to fix an annoying problem. Devinci should include it stock. It should last a lot longer than the stock fox bushings, too.

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    Still no creaking after the needle bearing install. I don't know why it fixes it, but it seems to. Less than $20 and 10 min to fix an annoying problem. Devinci should include it stock. It should last a lot longer than the stock fox bushings, too.
    And the small shock sensitivity improves big time compared to the stock bushing. At least, that is my experience. That alone was enough reason for me to do the upgrade.

    Another question: Anyone running the X9 crankset that came with stock bikes? I need a measurement of the distance between the non-drive crank and the main pivot nut(when the crank hovers over the pivot).

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    For reference (all this measure in a straight line point to point)- on my large atlas, measurement from the saddle tip to the center of the stem at the head tube is right at 18". My saddle height is about 29" from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle. I'm using a zero offset seatpost with the saddle essentially centered on the clamp.
    Is it 18" from the tip of the saddle to the center of the headset cap or to the mid point of your stem? My medium mcr niner is 17" from the tip of my saddle to the center of the head set cup.

  73. #273
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    I measured to the center of the headset cap.

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    Also, if you want needle bearings but don't care about the bling of the nice kit RWC sells, you can pick up the ABI needle bearing kit for a lot less $. Most local bike stores should be able to order it, too. I believe this is the right size:

    Enduro Rear Shock Needle Bearing Kits (100118121) at CambriaBike.com
    I highly recommend against this. Please do check it out and compare. Stacks of seals instead of sealed aluminum spacers? More important, you are going to have to get lucky with the shock eyelet tolerances. They vary. Accordingly, the RWC kit supplies three different inner rings (axles) to cover a range of tolerances. With the cheaper knock-off kit, you only get one axle and have to hope the fit is good (otherwise you will have bearing slop).

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    I highly recommend against this. Please do check it out and compare. Stacks of seals instead of sealed aluminum spacers? More important, you are going to have to get lucky with the shock eyelet tolerances. They vary. Accordingly, the RWC kit supplies three different inner rings (axles) to cover a range of tolerances. With the cheaper knock-off kit, you only get one axle and have to hope the fit is good (otherwise you will have bearing slop).
    I don't doubt that the RWC kit is better, however the cheaper kit has worked perfectly for me. No slop and there's plenty of pressure to ensure the plastiEndc/rubber seals keep the bearing clean.

    That said, I always thought Enduro/ABI = Real World Cycling? I just thought these were less blingy versions carried by the distributors.

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    I don't doubt that the RWC kit is better, however the cheaper kit has worked perfectly for me. No slop and there's plenty of pressure to ensure the plastiEndc/rubber seals keep the bearing clean.

    That said, I always thought Enduro/ABI = Real World Cycling? I just thought these were less blingy versions carried by the distributors.
    Oh, the cheapo version will work for some, and that's good for you. Trust me, it won't work for at least 1/2 the people that order them. We would not be providing 3 different inner rings just for the fun of it. RWC works closely with Enduro but we are separate company. The selling of the "less blingy" version through distributors was not a decision that pleased us.

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    Anyone running the X9 crankset that came with stock bikes? I need a measurement of the distance between the non-drive crank and the main pivot nut(when the crank hovers over the pivot).
    Anyone? That would really help me out. I am looking at a Stages X9 left crank based powermeter, but its unit would be dangerously close to the pivot, if it would clear it at all.

    Kudos to RWC, by the way. Chris actually talked me out of buying their kit for the lower shock pivot, by having me find out it hardly moves.

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    Anyone? That would really help me out. I am looking at a Stages X9 left crank based powermeter, but its unit would be dangerously close to the pivot, if it would clear it at all.

    Kudos to RWC, by the way. Chris actually talked me out of buying their kit for the lower shock pivot, by having me find out it hardly moves.
    Just checked my AKA cranks for ya, which are fairly close to the same looking cranks as X9. I was able to get a 7mm allen wrench to clear, anything bigger hit/rubbed.

  79. #279
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    Can't anyone compare the carbon frame with the alu one?

    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    Did someone ride both the aluminium and the carbon Atlas?
    What do you think about the difference between the two?
    Is the carbon as stiff or stiffer than the alu?
    I have an alu and I'm considering swapping for a carbon;
    the geometry table show a longer TT for the carbon version and that would be nice for me. What else can I expect from the swap, apart the 300g difference?

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by In2falling View Post
    Just checked my AKA cranks for ya, which are fairly close to the same looking cranks as X9. I was able to get a 7mm allen wrench to clear, anything bigger hit/rubbed.
    Thanks! It seems AKA uses the same arms as X7, which do look quite similar to X9. Anyone with X9 for a double check? Looks like no luck for me, as 7mm is too little. Stages Cycling uses a 10mm allen wrench as a check for minimum clearance.

    Edit: X7 seems to have a 3mm smaller Q-factor as a X9 crankset, so I am definitly still interested in the same Allen wrench test with an X9. The question is simple: What's the biggest Allen wrench that fits between the pivot and the left crank ?
    Last edited by JeroenK; 01-03-2014 at 01:07 AM.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    Did someone ride both the aluminium and the carbon Atlas?
    What do you think about the difference between the two?
    Is the carbon as stiff or stiffer than the alu?
    I have an alu and I'm considering swapping for a carbon;
    the geometry table show a longer TT for the carbon version and that would be nice for me. What else can I expect from the swap, apart the 300g difference?
    The reach measurements of the framesets are exactly the same, so my guess is the difference in HTT lengths you see has something to do with the different front suspension travel setups the measurements are based on. Don't bet on the carbon bike being longer, I'd say!

    If I were in your situation, I would have to have a very good deal on a carbon frame to swap, or my alu frame would have to be in desperate need of replacement. The handling characteristics would be allmost the same, so it's the 300 gram difference, maybe a slight difference in ride feel and the carbon bling factor that you are paying a lot of money for. Would you not be better off spending the money on better/other parts?

    A wheelset for example, or if you are running a 100mm fork, chances are you can get a 120mm fork that works better and saves some weight.

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    The reach measurements of the framesets are exactly the same, so my guess is the difference in HTT lengths you see has something to do with the different front suspension travel setups the measurements are based on. Don't bet on the carbon bike being longer, I'd say!
    How can you tell the reach measurements are the same?
    The geometry table on Devinci's site state the carbon to be 1cm longer, both in ett and reach measurements.


    If I were in your situation, I would have to have a very good deal on a carbon frame to swap, or my alu frame would have to be in desperate need of replacement. The handling characteristics would be allmost the same, so it's the 300 gram difference, maybe a slight difference in ride feel and the carbon bling factor that you are paying a lot of money for. Would you not be better off spending the money on better/other parts?
    You're right.
    I found a good deal on a carbon and my alu is in perfect conditions so I thought to be able to sell it at a good price but looks like it's not so easy.

    I would feel slightly better on a slightly longer frame, and I would hope the carbon to be stiffer than the alu, mainly in the front end.

  83. #283
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    You are right! I messed up and compared stack measurements instead of reach... The metal one is shorter.

    I have no experience on the alu frame, but the stiffness of the carbon front triangle leaves nothing to be desired, for me at least.

  84. #284
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    Just picked up one of these frames on Ebay. It reportedly had 2months use but it is absolutely pristine. I paid $1500 for the fork, frame, and headset, and bottom bracket. I was pleased with the price.

    I got a used frameset on ebay with a Magura TS8 fork. I like the fork but there is no way I can tolerate the white fork on this bike. I'm looking to replace it with something in black. Rockshox Revelation is my first choice but I'm also considering the Manitou Tower and the X-Fusion Slide or Trace.

    Anyone have any input on fork choice? Travel? Brand preferences?

    I am really excited to build her up! All the parts are in the mail!

    P.S. if anyone is interested in the Magura let me know! Would look great on the new black and white frames!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-devinci2.jpg  

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-devinci1.jpg  


  85. #285
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    I'd take the X-fusion over the Manitou, but you really need to tell us about your riding first... XC, Trail, Enduro? I have put quite a few riders (including myself) on Atlas' with Pikes, both 140 and 150mm. For some, that is too much fork, but as long as you tune it with the proper number of tokens, you can make it perform like an XC fork or a DH fork on a bombproof chassis that isn't all that heavy. My 150mm 2-position Pike weighs less than my 140mm White Bros Loop, FWIW...
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Just picked up one of these frames on Ebay.

    Anyone have any input on fork choice? Travel? Brand preferences?
    I really like the frame.
    Now that you have it lying around unbuilt could you please take a picture for me of the headtube inside, without headset bearings? I would really appreciate. Is there an alu cup bonded in the carbon?
    I'm wondering if I could move the offset cups I made for my alu Atlas to a carbon frame.
    Thank you!

    And... I'd take either a Trace or a Pike as a fork, but it's just me and my riding.

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwvoodoo View Post
    I'd take the X-fusion over the Manitou, but you really need to tell us about your riding first... XC, Trail, Enduro? I have put quite a few riders (including myself) on Atlas' with Pikes, both 140 and 150mm. For some, that is too much fork, but as long as you tune it with the proper number of tokens, you can make it perform like an XC fork or a DH fork on a bombproof chassis that isn't all that heavy. My 150mm 2-position Pike weighs less than my 140mm White Bros Loop, FWIW...
    I do most of my riding in the foothills of NC with frequent weekend trips to the Pisgah Ranger district, Boone, Dupont, and Bent Creek. I like to push my limits on the rougher stuff downhill and through the corners but light weight is also important for the long climbs we have around here.

    I've ridden the Pike several times and it's an excellent fork but may be more than I need for this bike. I've heard that the new revelation has the same damper on a 32mm chassis so that would be ideal. I realize the trace is in the same category as the Pike but the price tag is much more attractive and the travel is easier to adjust.

    I'm not a heavy guy at 160lbs so a 34/35mm fork may be overkill but I've been told that the Trace is a higher quality fork than the smaller slide.

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Just picked up one of these frames on Ebay. It reportedly had 2months use but it is absolutely pristine. I paid $1500 for the fork, frame, and headset, and bottom bracket. I was pleased with the price.

    I got a used frameset on ebay with a Magura TS8 fork. I like the fork but there is no way I can tolerate the white fork on this bike. I'm looking to replace it with something in black. Rockshox Revelation is my first choice but I'm also considering the Manitou Tower and the X-Fusion Slide or Trace.

    Anyone have any input on fork choice? Travel? Brand preferences?

    I am really excited to build her up! All the parts are in the mail!

    P.S. if anyone is interested in the Magura let me know! Would look great on the new black and white frames!
    Damm you I was communicating with the guy, but I didn't want the fork. Hope you enjoy it.
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  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    I do most of my riding in the foothills of NC with frequent weekend trips to the Pisgah Ranger district, Boone, Dupont, and Bent Creek. I like to push my limits on the rougher stuff downhill and through the corners but light weight is also important for the long climbs we have around here.

    I've ridden the Pike several times and it's an excellent fork but may be more than I need for this bike. I've heard that the new revelation has the same damper on a 32mm chassis so that would be ideal. I realize the trace is in the same category as the Pike but the price tag is much more attractive and the travel is easier to adjust.

    I'm not a heavy guy at 160lbs so a 34/35mm fork may be overkill but I've been told that the Trace is a higher quality fork than the smaller slide.
    I raced the Slide for about a year. Then a friend of mine who works at X Fusion said you have to try the Trace. I was not really interested in buying a fork at the time but he was so convinceing that this fork would out perform my slide in every manner. So I bought the Trace from him and all I can say is it might be the best fork I ever rode. I just bought a new Remedy 27.5 I took my race bike apart I still have the Trace Fork if your interested let me know I will sell it. I only raced it once so the fork is like new with a remote lock out.
    I am 165lbs. I have not tried a Pike yet to compare it to the Trace. But I do know the Trace is WAY better then the Slide and the Fox Float I had before the Trace. I say go with the Trace. Its super stiff and feels so plush n smooth and its light and the lock out works great.

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Anyone have any input on fork choice? Travel? Brand preferences?
    !
    I had a Manitou Tower 120 on mine for a short while but beefed up my Atlas and converted it over to more of an All Mnt rig with a Pike 140 (expensive upgrade).

    With the 120 the bike is very balanced and climbs very well. With the 140 climbing is suffering a bit, but is a bit faster for me in the super chunky/rocky downhill stuff I ride a lot.

    If you are interested, I am getting ready to put my black Manitou Tower 120 up for sale and give you a great deal on it. Itís a great fork for the money and performs well especially for you feather weight/light riders.

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    I really like the frame.
    Now that you have it lying around unbuilt could you please take a picture for me of the headtube inside, without headset bearings? I would really appreciate. Is there an alu cup bonded in the carbon?
    I'm wondering if I could move the offset cups I made for my alu Atlas to a carbon frame.
    Thank you!

    And... I'd take either a Trace or a Pike as a fork, but it's just me and my riding.
    No chance to take a pic but it's definitely all carbon in there!

  92. #292
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Just picked up one of these frames on Ebay. It reportedly had 2months use but it is absolutely pristine. I paid $1500 for the fork, frame, and headset, and bottom bracket. I was pleased with the price.

    I got a used frameset on ebay with a Magura TS8 fork. I like the fork but there is no way I can tolerate the white fork on this bike. I'm looking to replace it with something in black. Rockshox Revelation is my first choice but I'm also considering the Manitou Tower and the X-Fusion Slide or Trace.

    Anyone have any input on fork choice? Travel? Brand preferences?

    I am really excited to build her up! All the parts are in the mail!

    P.S. if anyone is interested in the Magura let me know! Would look great on the new black and white frames!
    That deck needs some lovin.

    Nice price. Always wondered about those Magura forks. You going to try riding it at all?

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumbi4Prez View Post
    That deck needs some lovin.

    Nice price. Always wondered about those Magura forks. You going to try riding it at all?
    Hah, yeah talk to my landlord! It's a 112yr old apartment so I don't mind so much.

    I have the Magura fork posted on some local mtb classifieds and on Pinkbike. If it doesn't sell, I'll hold onto it for the time being. It already has a couple months use so me riding it a few times won't affect the value too much.

    Things like color don't usually bother me but on a frame as pretty as this I want everything just so. Not to mention I wouldn't mind a little bit more travel. If the fork were black, I'd definitely hang onto it.

  94. #294
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    So quick question. If I were to get a hope seat collar would I get a 36.4 or a 38.5? I'd think it's the former as my caliper says the external diameter of the seat tube is 36.8 but I'd like to be sure.

  95. #295
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    The Devinci site says: SEAT COLLAR Alloy CNC 37mm, so definitly nothing over 38.

    +1 for the Pike. It's easily the best fork I owned and there are air spring kits available to reduce the travel to 120mm if you'd like to. It's hard to get a 32mm fork that weighs or costs less, so why not go for the extra stiffness and performance that is very hard to beat?

    My Atlas Carbon has a 140mm solo air Pike now. I was afraid it would mess up the geometry, but the handling characteristics are still great and the fork has improved my downhill riding a lot. I get the idea that the geometry of the frame is better suited to 120mm travel and up than south of 120mm.

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    I'm selling my Medium complete carbon if anyone is interested. You can PM me or go over to weight weenies to find it.

  97. #297
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    Link to your add on here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Oh, the cheapo version will work for some, and that's good for you. Trust me, it won't work for at least 1/2 the people that order them. We would not be providing 3 different inner rings just for the fun of it. RWC works closely with Enduro but we are separate company. The selling of the "less blingy" version through distributors was not a decision that pleased us.
    Just a follow up to this: I've had the same upper shock pivot creaking issue as several others in this thread. I have installed the RWC needle bearing kit and with 2 rides on it to date, my creaking issue is gone! Also small bump sensitivity has increased slightly. I did end up having to use the middle size inner ring (included with the kit), due to the tolerance differences.

    Quality piece of kit Chris, Thanks!

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-2014-01-07-03.19.25.jpg

  100. #300
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    [QUOTE=burl81;10945208]Here ya go

    Why not take out an add on here as per the rules instead of spamming it.
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