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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    Have you tried deflating the shock and cycling the suspension through full compression?

    Anyone else have feedback on tire clearance? Inability to run a generous 2.25 is a deal breaker for me
    Great suggestion, tried it last night....bingo! That was the culprit. I added a Volume Reducer to the shock to see if this might help me from blowing through the travel and getting this rub. Will shake it out this weekend.

    Regardless, dont think a 2.35 will fit, but tires I referenced above (nobby nic 2.25/ground control 2.3) do have sufficient chainstay clearance

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ YetiMan View Post
    Regardless, dont think a 2.35 will fit, but tires I referenced above (nobby nic 2.25/ground control 2.3) do have sufficient chainstay clearance
    Hmmmmm.... I'm not sure if that makes me feel better or worse. A nobby nic 2.25 or Purg 2.3 is all I'm looking to run, but if it's line-to-line with the seat post then that's a "doesn't fit" in my book.

    Thanks for taking the time to check. I greatly appreciate it. Hope your air can mod works for ya.

  3. #53
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    @NJ YetiMan, can you report on which frame rocker setting (hi/lo) the rubbing occured at? Seems the "hi" position pushes the rear axle away from the seat tube a bit.

    I guess this all will not be a real issue for me, as I'd rather pressure my shock to not bottom out in the first place, but it would be nice to know this risk exists at hi or lo setting or both.

    @car_nut, like he said, please note his is the alu version. No way of telling (yet) they have kept clearance the same on the carbon version.

  4. #54
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    I'm actually just squatting in this thread. The alloy version is the one I was actually interested in.

  5. #55
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    Atlas Carbon Frame Blemishes

    Below are examples of some of the blemishes that are prevalent on my Atlas frame. Does anyone else have similar flaws on their frames?

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-image.jpgDevinci Atlas Carbon-image.jpg

  6. #56
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    My Gary Fisher Superfly has stuff like that showing through the clear coat all over the place. It's a carbon layup... not cosmetically uniform in all places and it does not have to be. As long as there are no cracks or air pockets, I'd say you are fine structurally.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    @NJ YetiMan, can you report on which frame rocker setting (hi/lo) the rubbing occured at? Seems the "hi" position pushes the rear axle away from the seat tube a bit.

    I guess this all will not be a real issue for me, as I'd rather pressure my shock to not bottom out in the first place, but it would be nice to know this risk exists at hi or lo setting or both.

    @car_nut, like he said, please note his is the alu version. No way of telling (yet) they have kept clearance the same on the carbon version.
    I have only ridden it in the lo mode. I like a lower BB...but sounds like I should try the hi to maybe eliminate this issue. I must say that I have never felt the shock "bottom out". The only way I know I am going all the way through the travel is that the "sag ring" on the shock is pushed to the bottom. When I played with the pressure to eliminate that entirely, the shock was too firm and lost its small bump compliance. To be clear...when adjusting the rear shock at no time did the fact that it could be the culprit (of the tire rub) come into my mind. Hoping the Volume reducer helps on both fronts. Keeping the shock pressure in the initial stroke soft and ramping up at the end to eliminate the rub. I will also try the Hi setting at some point this weekend.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ YetiMan View Post
    I have only ridden it in the lo mode. I like a lower BB...but sounds like I should try the hi to maybe eliminate this issue. I must say that I have never felt the shock "bottom out". The only way I know I am going all the way through the travel is that the "sag ring" on the shock is pushed to the bottom. When I played with the pressure to eliminate that entirely, the shock was too firm and lost its small bump compliance. To be clear...when adjusting the rear shock at no time did the fact that it could be the culprit (of the tire rub) come into my mind. Hoping the Volume reducer helps on both fronts. Keeping the shock pressure in the initial stroke soft and ramping up at the end to eliminate the rub. I will also try the Hi setting at some point this weekend.
    The volume reducer did help...but did not totally eliminate the rub. I actually liked the progressive ramp of the shock with the spacer...it feels snappy and almost shoots you out of a corner. So thats a keeper IMO. Did not try the switch to "hi mode", as I really dont want to raise the BB at all.

    I bought this frame from Speedgaot, who is now out of business, so I called Devinci direct this morning for some insight. They indicated that with the complete bikes they sell, they actually cut off the little tab on the derailuer that is rubbing (see pics). Before I start cutting...does anyone have any experience/insight on this? It seems straight forward, but I am hesitant to start hacking. Devinci Atlas Carbon-atlas-v5.jpgDevinci Atlas Carbon-atlas-9.jpg

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ YetiMan View Post
    They indicated that with the complete bikes they sell, they actually cut off the little tab on the derailuer that is rubbing (see pics). Before I start cutting...does anyone have any experience/insight on this? It seems straight forward, but I am hesitant to start hacking.
    Are you running 2 or 3 front rings? The 2 ring specific Shimano FDs have more clearance w/a shorter arm.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by syadasti View Post
    Are you running 2 or 3 front rings? The 2 ring specific Shimano FDs have more clearance w/a shorter arm.
    I am running 2x....and I think the FD is 2x specific. It is the 785 series.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ YetiMan View Post
    I am running 2x....and I think the FD is 2x specific. It is the 785 series.
    Its probably this modification:

    http://www.turnerbikes.com/turner-pd...h_frdermod.pdf

  12. #62
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    Yeah, go for it. Canfield recommends the same treatment for my Yelli frame.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by syadasti View Post
    That looks like it.....thanks. Have you done this yourself?

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ YetiMan View Post
    That looks like it.....thanks. Have you done this yourself?
    Yes, my 5spot 2x SLX FD is modified.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    Yeah, go for it. Canfield recommends the same treatment for my Yelli frame.
    With this mod, I am sure the 2.25 tire requirement you had will be fine. I must tell you...this bike is an absolute blast. Of all the FS I have owned/ridden (patron, el rey, rip9, tallboy, epic), this is far and away the best fit for my riding terrain/style. I just wish I figured this derailuer issue out sooner.

    Thanks to Car_nut and Sydasti for the assist!!!

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by syadasti View Post
    Yes, my 5spot 2x SLX FD is modified.
    Breakin' out the hacksaw! Thanks

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ YetiMan View Post
    Breakin' out the hacksaw! Thanks
    No problem in a month or two I hope to have at Atlas Carbon for Hartshorne (and elsewhere) too.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by syadasti View Post
    No problem in a month or two I hope to have at Atlas Carbon for Hartshorne (and elsewhere) too.
    Good eye! While the bike is definately overkill for hartshorne (I generally ride my SS there), the Atlas is the only FS bike I have had that is fun to ride there. I find myself looking for stuff to ride over/jump off. But I will tell you this bike is perfect for up north (Ringwood, Ramapo, Blue etc.). The short wheelbase really makes those slow, tight, techy sections more manageable. While I have not tried a 100 or 140 fork (the 2 stock options for the bike), I cant imagine either one being as good all around as the 120.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by syadasti View Post
    No problem in a month or two I hope to have at Atlas Carbon for Hartshorne (and elsewhere) too.
    Thats awesome. Hope to see you in the woods. I have yet to see anothyer Devinci on the trails. Great bikes...loust marketing

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ YetiMan View Post
    Thats awesome. Hope to see you in the woods. I have yet to see anothyer Devinci on the trails. Great bikes...loust marketing
    They are still building their dealer network in the US. I took an interest in them about ten years ago or so and saw their booth at Interbike 2002.

    You could always hit the drop right next to the water tower near the upper lot but I don't think its the right bike for that. Geometry reminds me of my 08 SCB BLT2.

    My favorite trails are in the Carbondale/Scranton area (Fell, Prompton, Moosic). Blue Mountain in Peekskill is pretty good as are the various trails in N NJ...

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ YetiMan View Post
    With this mod, I am sure the 2.25 tire requirement you had will be fine. I must tell you...this bike is an absolute blast.
    No doubt. It had everything I wanted on paper, but I decided it was too risky for me. I had some concerns about sizing along with tire clearance and finding a place to actually buy one. I went with my second choice and ordered a Satori frame.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    No doubt. It had everything I wanted on paper, but I decided it was too risky for me. I had some concerns about sizing along with tire clearance and finding a place to actually buy one. I went with my second choice and ordered a Satori frame.
    Nice! Good luck with your build.

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by shutterbug67 View Post
    I am currently riding a Turner Sultan and love it, but it is a very heavy frame and extra long chainstays... Wondering if anyone out there has ridden the Atlas and also the Sultan? I have been demo-ing the new Niner RIP9 carbon RDO and it is very solid bike and has fairly short chainstays. I can definitely tell the difference, but I am having tons of pedal strikes and feel like it does not climb quite as well as the Sultan. Only two short rides so far.... but this Atlas has really caught my attention, but a little worried that it will not be as "point and shoot" as my Sultan. I will probably never be able to try an Atlas before buying, so I am trying to find out as much as I can before buying. I want to have a solid feeling bike, not one of these fragile feeling carbon bikes. I will be building it up with a Talas 34 140mm for a solid trail - leaning towards all mountain and want to find out if this bike will be capable.

    btw - can some post what size seatpost this frame takes? and does the rear comfortably accomodate the Nobby Nic 2.35 ?

    Thanks
    I can respond all around - I rode a 2009 and 2011 Sultan for several years before moving onto the Atlas Carbon (from the first batch). I have found it to pedal as well as, and sometimes better than the Sultan. The chainstays are SO MUCH shorter on the Atlas, that standing climbing is far better, and though it doesn't seem to have as much anti-squat as the Sultan, it feels more direct in its pedaling.
    I would say it needs a little more finesse than the Sultan - it's less of a monster truck. Going from 18.5" stays to 16.9" stays makes for a much more playful bike, but at the same time, it is a little less forgiving when you mess up. I am finding myself riding my normal techy trails with much more tact and body english, relying less on the bike to power over everything in it's path. FWIW, I'm running a 140mm Loop, ENVE AM rims, dropper post, Hans Dampf tires, so it's definitely on the all-mountain end of the spectrum.

    I started off with a Nobby Nic 2.35, and riding XC it was fine, but when loaded up on hard corners (or the pump track) I got a little rub on the chainstay. This was on super wide AM rims - it may be less of an issue on narrower rims. I'd shoot for the HD or a 2.25 Nobby Nic.
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  24. #74
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    Can anyone compare to a Tallboy, and wheres a good place to buy a frame?

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by confused View Post
    Can anyone compare to a Tallboy, and wheres a good place to buy a frame?
    I have only ridden the TB for a day in Santa Cruz last year, and I absolutely loved that bike. It had a 100 up front, so definitely a little more XC, but a very neutral feeling bike that I adjusted to almost immediately. It was on my short list when I bought the atlas....but wanted aluminum and TB alum did not have a thru axle...a must have for a trail bike IMO.

    Relative to place to buy...good luck. I bought mine from Speedgoat, which is now out of business. Performance Bike is one on-line retailer I believe carry Devinci.

  26. #76
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  27. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by confused View Post
    Can anyone compare to a Tallboy, and wheres a good place to buy a frame?
    Fanatik Bike is awesome. Jadyn will hook you up!

  28. #78
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    My 2.35 Nobby Nic (the biggest I've seen) on AM ENVE rims rubbed the side of the seatstays under hard load - I never had it touch the seat tube under bottom out. A 2.35 Hans Dampf fits easily. No need to worry about tire clearance unless you're looking at REALLY big 29 tires, which aren't really the type of tire this bike is built for anyway.
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  29. #79
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    To be honest - A LOT of carbon frames have that appearance when they don't have a cosmetic weave layer on top of the structural carbon. I wouldn't worry a bit about it.
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  30. #80
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    I spent a season riding a 100mm Tallboy, even doing my first 24hr solo on it. It was a great bike and felt really meaty for it's weight.
    That said, I'm having WAY more fun on my Atlas Carbon. The shorter stays and more direct drivetrain give very little pedal feedback and the braking control is better. The rear end feels tighter with the Split pivot compared to the multi-link, though my Tallboy was pre-142, so it may be better now.
    I do prefer the pressed headset of the Tallboy vs drop-in of the Atlas, though the drop-in is lighter.
    As far as where to buy - I can sell you one, or check the network of dealers. I know Colorado Cyclist has picked them up, but I can match their frame price. Most sizes are readily available now, so there isn't much of a wait (though it takes a while for them to ship out of Canada).
    If you're near Boulder, CO, you can ride my medium or my wife's alloy small...
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  31. #81
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    Peformance is carrying these complete and have double points (20% back) this weekend.

    I was going to buy one a couple months back, then they pulled them and said they wouldn't be carrying them. So, i bought my pivot Mach 429 carbon (which so far I really dig), but the geometry on the Devinci is very appealing. Wouldn't be shocked if next year they have a full carbon model either.

    Would love to ride of of these to see how it rides. Dig the geometry specs.
    "The thing is, Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just don't care."

  32. #82
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    Just a teaser while I wait for my wheels. Devinci Atlas Carbon-imageuploadedbytapatalk1366038694.033989.jpg

  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nilsern View Post
    Just a teaser while I wait for my wheels. Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks great Nilsern... mine will be very similar. Have the 34 Talas on my Sultan now, but once I ride it for a while and get a feel for the bike, I will prolly put a 120mm fixed length fork, so I can get a better performance. I dont like the talas at all on my Sultan in the 110mm position... even on super steep and long climbs. Wish I would have know before buying. My close friend says the same thing about his talas on the RIP9

  34. #84
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    Just picked mine up this evening... Complete RX build.
    Not sure why they spec'd a 420x125 Reverb on a size small frame with an interrupted seat tube! Post is at max insertion as shown, and is set maybe a 1/2" lower than normal riding height...

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_2064.jpg

  35. #85
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    I spent some time on a Large frame size demo yesterday. I am 5'10 with a long torso and short legs (30" inseam). The large was definitely too long for me. The bike was set up with a 70 mm Chromag ranger stem, and the saddle was all the way forward. On climbs I was having to lean really far forward to keep the front end down, sometimes resulting in rear tire spinouts. The bike absolutely slayed the descents. I'm going to pull the trigger on a medium here pretty quick.

    My riding buddy was demoing an aluminum version at the same time, but his was set up with a Fox 34 (140 mm) and that fork was so much plusher than the revelation that was on the carbon demo.

  36. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by jduffett View Post
    Not sure why they spec'd a 420x125 Reverb on a size small frame with an interrupted seat tube!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Have your shop switch it over. I mean, come on, that's a not properly working bike delivered to the customer.

  37. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by shutterbug67 View Post
    Looks great Nilsern... mine will be very similar. Have the 34 Talas on my Sultan now, but once I ride it for a while and get a feel for the bike, I will prolly put a 120mm fixed length fork, so I can get a better performance. I dont like the talas at all on my Sultan in the 110mm position... even on super steep and long climbs. Wish I would have know before buying. My close friend says the same thing about his talas on the RIP9
    The 120 fork will get you a well balanced bike.

    The 140/110, should be good for the Atlas though. As Fox 34 in 110 mode is pretty close to a fox 32 120mm when it comes to A2C. I wanted the 140 for all burlier riding I want to do.

    Got my 1st set of wheels today, EA70 XCt, I got a GREAT deal, so I'm setting them up with Schwalbe RR for light trailriding and boring workouts

    Still waiting for my AM wheels though. I can now tell that it is a set of Syntace W35, and are gonna use Maxxis Ardents in 2.25. Bet it's gonna be a Kickass bike !

  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nilsern View Post
    The 120 fork will get you a well balanced bike.

    The 140/110, should be good for the Atlas though. As Fox 34 in 110 mode is pretty close to a fox 32 120mm when it comes to A2C. I wanted the 140 for all burlier riding I want to do.

    Got my 1st set of wheels today, EA70 XCt, I got a GREAT deal, so I'm setting them up with Schwalbe RR for light trailriding and boring workouts

    Still waiting for my AM wheels though. I can now tell that it is a set of Syntace W35, and are gonna use Maxxis Ardents in 2.25. Bet it's gonna be a Kickass bike !
    been reading about the Syntace wheels for almost a year now, but have not been able to find them anywhere... Have you found a source or place to purchase them? any good deals on them out there?

  39. #89
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    Got my frame in! Looks really good. It'll get the parts of my old bike, a WB Loop 120mm fork, RS Reverb, a smattering of XTR, Easton Haven bars and wheels built with AM Classic 101 rims (love those!), a Notubes front hub and a Powertap rear hub.

    Now waiting for the 135 QR dropout/QR kit to reach this side of the ocean to finish it.

    Could anyone of you who are allready happily riding theirs give me some hints on the rear derailer cable routing?

    It seems to have to be a full length outer cable all the way, is that correct? There is a cable mount on the swingarm, just below of the main pivot. If I would attach the outer cable to that mount it'll have to make a real tight bend to the hole in the chainstay. Is that what it's supposed to do? Pics of the BB area behind the crankset are welcome.

  40. #90
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    Just built mine, and yes, you need a full-length cable. You need to make the bend, but I did not feel that it redused shifting performance.

    Build-tip: finsh cabeling for the rearshifter befor mounting the cranckset.

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nilsern View Post
    Just built mine, and yes, you need a full-length cable. You need to make the bend, but I did not feel that it redused shifting performance.

    Build-tip: finsh cabeling for the rearshifter befor mounting the cranckset.
    Thanks. Yeah, I figured that last one out ;-).

    <edit> And I thought I might just as well do the front mech mod while it's not on the bike yet .
    Last edited by JeroenK; 04-28-2013 at 11:32 AM.

  42. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    Have your shop switch it over. I mean, come on, that's a not properly working bike delivered to the customer.
    I would... But I'll probably end up ebaying the Reverb anyway, and I suspect the 420x125 is more popular than the 355x100.

  43. #93
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    Check the specs on the alloy vs carbon - they aren't the same size. Also check your fork settings - the 2013 Revelation should be at least as plush as a 34...
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  44. #94
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    The full-run housing works great and with nice smooth bends. That said, it is a LOT easier to get it through the chainstay before you have a BB and crank installed. I have a pic here on a customer's XX1 crank, but even on my XTR triple there is plenty of room and the cable bend is smooth.Devinci Atlas Carbon-2013-04-28-19.04.32.jpg
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  45. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwvoodoo View Post
    The full-run housing works great and with nice smooth bends.
    Thanks, so I see. I could not imagine a smooth bend from the cable guide to the chainstay, but apparently, the cable is allowed to continue to bend in the chainstay.

  46. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    @vwvoodoo, what front mech are you using? Do you have enough clearance between the front mech cage and the tire when on the little ring?
    XT Direct High Mount Triple. It's a dual pull, so I removed the bottom pull segment. There are no clearance issues between cage and tire. It did hit the bottom pull cable guide...that's why I removed it (with a hack saw and file)
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  47. #97
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    Here's my build for now. I'm missing w35 wheels and syntace stem, and due to my short legs, I need a 100mm Reverb. In shown condition it's 12,8kg with pedals. Amazingly fun and quick bike!!! Devinci Atlas Carbon-imageuploadedbytapatalk1367593073.321506.jpgDevinci Atlas Carbon-imageuploadedbytapatalk1367592975.724287.jpg

  48. #98
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    That is a nice looking build! I like the red TRS cranks - they match the red highlights of the frame...
    Let me fix your bike @ ordinarybicycle.net in Louisville, CO

  49. #99
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    Thanks vwvoodoo! I really like the looks of the E13 cranks too. Pluss it's stiff and light

  50. #100
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    Bike ready! Hidden Atlas Carbon - Giant Anthem X 29er comparison

    Got my 135 QR dropouts, finished the bike and did my first ride.

    What a great bike! My former frame is a Giant Anthem X 29er. Both frames are size large and I have simply switched my 120mm WB Loop to the Atlas.

    On paper, the difference is not that great and the reality is: The Anthem is really hard to beat as a do-it-all bike. It's as light as aluminium 29er FS frames get, plush, efficient, agile and a great climber. The Atlas has 10mm more rear travel and is marginally lighter. What I was after was an improvement of ride quality, a bike better suited to the kind of riding I do and I simply liked the appearance of the Atlas. Offcourse the lifetime warranty is nice too and that it's a bit more future proof by being 142 rear axle ready.

    It turns out the ride is great and that's with a minimum of suspension setup effort. I just put the damper on close to 30% sag and rebound 2 clicks from completely open. It handles noticably better than the Anthem in a lot of ways. It has a tighter turning circle and is easier to throw into corners and change direction mid-corner, which was what I was looking for.

    Both the Anthem and the Atlas seem to have 'bottomless' rear travel, but the small bump compliancy of the Atlas sets it apart. The rear suspension movement under pedaling of the Atlas seems to be equal or even less than the Anthem's, which was not what I expected, as short link 'vpp' bikes tend to be really good at that. The biggest difference was how much easier the front of the Atlas can be lifted. It just wants to manual and bunny hop. Not that surprising with chainstays more than 1 inch shorter, but it amazed me how much difference that inch makes (insert 'that's what she said' pun here ).

    With a 120mm fork, it feels really balanced. Low BB, but not that low that I get pedal strikes (chip is in the 'lo' position). I have not done any seated steep techy climbing yet, which in theory could be a tiny bit harder with the short chainstays.

    Then there is a bunch of stuff that I really liked about the Atlas when assembling it. Devinci delivers a complete package, with headset, seatpost clamp, shock pump (Devinci branded, which is a nice touch) and frame protection for the chainstay and the downtube. Sure, a complete package is what can be expected with this price tag, but a headset and frame specific protection is not that ordinary.

    The cable routing is very well thought out and the finish seems high quality all over. Little things like the headset cup tolerances are on the mark. Not allways the case with drop-in headsets... It's after I assembled the bike that I realized that not one bit of improvisation was needed. Apparently I got used to bike frames less well designed.

    I have one crappy Phone pic that I will not bother you guys with ;-). Better ones on the way after I made my way to the south of France to do justice to the bike by riding it on proper trails.

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