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  1. #1
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    Creakin' and Poppin'

    I've had the standard worn out BB/loose seat/whatever creak/pop under power issue with my '11 Lynskey Ridgeline for the past several months. I've replaced the BB, stripped the bike down and rebuilt it, torqued, greased, inspected for cracks, etc. several times, but the problem persists.

    My new theory is that it's the potentially soft aluminum that Stan's uses in their hubs wearing down/unevenly, or possibly just not getting enough grip on the frame:



    The reasoning behind this is that on my road-going Lynskey, the cheap crap all-aluminum exposed cam skewers that came with my wheelset let the rear wheel slip ever so slightly under hard acceleration, and made a similar creak. A switch to Shimano skewers with steel inserts solved the issue. I learned my lesson and run XT skewers on the Ridgeline, so I don't think it's that.

    A fiend recommended putting some thin steel lockwashers between the hub and frame as a possible solution... I don't have appropriate washers on hand to see for myself, but has anybody tried this? Any other ideas? My cassette fused itself to the soft Stan's freehub body... could that be causing a creak somewhere?


  2. #2
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    IM having the same issue with my rigid ss these days. im about to overhaul like you did and will let you know. its steel with kings and paragon sliders so we shall see.

  3. #3
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    Your knees?
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  4. #4
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    Reputation: Silentfoe's Avatar
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    Two things that I've found in the past:

    1. Grease the interface between the frame and your replaceable derailleur hanger

    2. Remove the cassette and throw some light grease on the freehub body.

  5. #5
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    Just today talked with a friend who has a Ti Lynskey that had a creaky BB. He told me he solved it with everything you did PLUS using some kind of titanium assembly grease and teflon tape on the threaded BB. No problems afterwards. Good luck!

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies. I tried greasing the derailleur hanger/frame interface, but have not screwed with the cassette yet. I think first I'll give the teflon tape/Ti prep (just copper anti-sieze, right?) a shot, as that makes sense. If that doesn't work, I'll try and free the cassette and see what's going on there.

  7. #7
    Ahhh the pain....
    Reputation: Raybum's Avatar
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    I have a 2010 Ridgeline SL and early in it's life, had creaking problems related to the sliders. (you obviously don't have that problem!). Of recent though, I've had all kinds of issues with the BB cups loosening and causing horrible creaking noises. I'd disassemble, clean, put new anti-seize on the cups, and retorque...all would be good for about 3 weeks. Finally, I decided to just locktite them and that solved the problem.
    HOwever, I do have popping sounds and last week moved all my parts over to a Pro29 frame and the popping came with it...My suspicion is that it's either pedals or crank bolts...
    Your limits are both physical and mental. Suffering will help you find and overcome both.
    http://onegear-ray.blogspot.com/

  8. #8
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    Clean and grease up your chainring bolts too!

  9. #9
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    Well, I tried teflon tape and anti-sieze on the BB, and while it may have made a slight difference, it didn't eliminate the issue.

    Here's what happens:

    The bike is perfect for the first 4-5 minutes (regardless of terrain), at which point the noises start. I'm guessing something is warming up and causing a gap/inconsistency somewhere, but not sure.

    On slow climbs in low gears, it's quite noisy and annoying. If I stop pedaling for a pawl click or two and start pedaling again, the noise goes away for 10-15 seconds.

    After an hour or so of riding, the noise seems to appear less often.

    I think my next step is to break the cassette free and take the chainring bolts off. I might as well rebuild my pedals while I'm at it.


  10. #10
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    Have you considered having your LBS reface your BB?

  11. #11
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    Stan's hubs have reasonably priced changeable endcaps. Change at least the rears to take the DtSwiss RWS 10mm thru-bolt. You will get a more solid fit.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulljammer View Post
    Have you considered having your LBS reface your BB?
    This

  13. #13
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    i had a 2011 pro29 with the same issue. i took a small nylon brush and cleaned the ridges on both the hub and skewer where they contact the frame. and that solved my issue. what it was, was that dirt and small bits of metal of the constant small rubbing in that area, causes those tiny gaps to fill up. leaving little room for grip, thus the slight movement making that popping noise.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulljammer View Post
    Have you considered having your LBS reface your BB?
    I don't think that would be the case, as there were no issues during the first ~8 months of ownership and it's not like the bb shell would deform by itself. I'm pretty convinced that the noise is not related to the BB area, but if nothing else (below) works, I may take it in just to see.

    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    Stan's hubs have reasonably priced changeable endcaps. Change at least the rears to take the DtSwiss RWS 10mm thru-bolt. You will get a more solid fit.
    Quote Originally Posted by ratboy View Post
    i had a 2011 pro29 with the same issue. i took a small nylon brush and cleaned the ridges on both the hub and skewer where they contact the frame. and that solved my issue. what it was, was that dirt and small bits of metal of the constant small rubbing in that area, causes those tiny gaps to fill up. leaving little room for grip, thus the slight movement making that popping noise.
    Good info. I'll try the brush, and if that doesn't work, new endcaps. I rebuilt the pedals, finally got the cassette off (cassette ate into the freehub a fair amount... what's wrong with steel freehubs?), and took apart/cleaned/etc. the crankset. If I can convince myself to go play in the snow tonight, we'll see if it worked.

  15. #15
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    You could even use a wire brush on the qr. I didn't care about the scratches. The noise was driving me nuts. But like I said, that seemed to stop it

  16. #16
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    Even better if you have QR wheels is put a thin layer of grease on the dropouts and QR caps, as well as the skewer itself.

  17. #17
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    So, I didn't have a chance to scrub out the hub or skewers, but did dab some anti-sieze back there last night. I think it shut the thing up, but it was hard to tell... messy ride.

    It's now diarrheaing melted snow and mud all over my shop floor. Gross.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Creakin' and Poppin'-snow_01.jpg  


  18. #18
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    [QUOTE=Pisgah2000;9814423]I don't think that would be the case, as there were no issues during the first ~8 months of ownership and it's not like the bb shell would deform by itself. I'm pretty convinced that the noise is not related to the BB area, but if nothing else (below) works, I may take it in just to see.

    Thats exactly what I thought with mine as well, the reface sorted it though.

  19. #19
    Shift less, Pedal more.
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    I've had the creaking on my bike. After checking about everything, I removed the pedals, cleaned the threads and added a little grease to the threads. Creaks gone.
    I'd rather be hated for what I am, than loved for what I'm not......Dolemite.

  20. #20
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    I think I've found the culprit: the cassette. Stan's shipped out new endcaps to replace the prematurely worn originals, but they didn't really seem to make a difference. It was initially quiet, but I think that was because I had to remove the cassette to remove/install the caps. After a few miles, the creaking came back.

    I recently discovered that my chain was ridiculously stretched (whoops), and along with it, so was the 1,000-mile-old XT cassette. I tossed on an old Sram 990 that I had laying around, and even after a 20 mile ride, no creaks. Silence is a wonderful thing. Hopefully the Sram won't tear into the freehub body as much... that thing looks terrible.

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