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  1. #801
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    No, I linked to that info cause these Chinese frames have the same finishes - just thought someone might want to know what the different weaves (3k,12k, UD) were.
    Don't worry about the weave. Just buy the weave that is most appealing visually to you, if you can. Most of us are buying these frames sight unseen and ass unridden. So the very small difference the outside weave makes in the ride characteristic is a mute point.

  2. #802
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    yeah I agree with mcs here... Think of the outside layer as paint, pick the finish you like most

    also to note there was only a bee's dick clearence running the narror q xx cranks on the lt023 frame
    Josh

  3. #803
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    Hi!

    I have two questions!

    1) Have anyone figured out where all those chinese copys originally come from, I heard specialized, is that correct?

    2) Is there any cheap FS 29er frames available from china yet? Or have you any guess when it might show up?

  4. #804
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    funny

    Quote Originally Posted by emp? View Post
    yeah I agree with mcs here... Think of the outside layer as paint, pick the finish you like most

    also to note there was only a bee's dick clearence running the narror q xx cranks on the lt023 frame
    Weird, because when I mounted my XX with the narrow q, there was plenty of room.

    And regards til rear clearance, I could fit a Schwalbe RacingRalph 2.4, so I would say a pretty good clearance

    Cheers...

  5. #805
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    1. i think you will find that china designs them as and then smaller companies buy them and rebrand as needed, I thinking saying designed by specalized is probably a bit of a stretch

    2. no f/s bikes as yet, but im sure it wont be to far away
    Josh

  6. #806
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbitized View Post
    Weird, because when I mounted my XX with the narrow q, there was plenty of room.

    And regards til rear clearance, I could fit a Schwalbe RacingRalph 2.4, so I would say a pretty good clearance

    Cheers...
    Prob should have put more details in sorry
    Im running the narrow q xx cranks, Beer BB and a 32T homebrew chainring in the middle(small) ring position... so if it was a 28t it would have more room
    Josh

  7. #807
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    Does anyone know which Cane Creek headset fits in the LT-Bike frame?

  8. #808
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    Just ordered a HF-053 in 12K matt from Jenny at HongFu along with some extra stuff.
    Planning to part out a Gravity 29point5 bike I have for the build. I'll keep you updated on how it works out.

  9. #809
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    Please help me decide

    Rider weight: 210lbs
    Trails: Aggressive XC on technical, rocky, rooty single track
    Fork: 100-120mm suspension (to be determined)

    I can't decide between one of these Chinese frames vs. an aluminum frame...
    such as a Banshee Paradox, Canfield Yelli Screamy or a Misfit diSSent.

    I'd love for my first 29er to be carbon, but I'm wondering if one of those aluminum frames would be better suited to my weight and the rougher trails around here.

    I have a nice 6" full susp 26er already.

    I'd like this 29er build to be more XC-oriented.

    thanks.

  10. #810
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    I wouldn't have a problem with carbon if I were you.

  11. #811
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    Which Cane Creek headset ? please.

    Quote Originally Posted by emp? View Post
    yep the headset i got weighed a lot
    i just chucked a cane creek one in, no biggie
    Hey emp?, I saw your Dropbox pics. That's the LTK023, correct? (UD finish)
    Could you tell me which Cane Creek headset you are using?
    Does the LTK023 also come w/ a standard BB (threaded) ?

    thanks!

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by emp? View Post
    1. i think you will find that china designs them as and then smaller companies buy them and rebrand as needed, I thinking saying designed by specalized is probably a bit of a stretch

    2. no f/s bikes as yet, but im sure it wont be to far away
    Companies like Special-olympic-ized and Shrek, I mean Trek, design their own frames and have them made in Asia to their specs. Smaller companies like Storck, look as if they buy off the shelf units and put their name on them, but I'm not sure in their case. Sette is great for doing that with a lot, if not most of thier stuff. Then there are a bunch of really small outfits that just buy and rebrand.

  13. #813
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    could I part out my 2010 stumpjumper comp on one of these carbon frames?
    might consider that to shed weight this winter

  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    mute
    it's moot
    "Big Gulps huh?...Allllriggghhht....Welp, See ya later!"

  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by iradi8 View Post
    could I part out my 2010 stumpjumper comp on one of these carbon frames?
    might consider that to shed weight this winter
    Sure could. You'd lose at least a full pound, maybe more. The nice thing is you'd probably get as much for the specialized frame on ebay as the carbon frame will cost you.

    The seat post size may be different and you'll need to plan ahead for the headset depending on how your fork mates up with the carbon frame you choose.

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by kkjellquist View Post
    it's moot
    The use of, "mute" is a play on words in this case. Most people won't get. I guess you didn't.

  17. #817
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    Smile Very cheap price, do not know how to quality

    Very cheap price, do not know how to quality

  18. #818
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    Does anyone else get the impression that this post is slowly being invaded by shills who work for the frame manufacturers that we are buying from?

  19. #819
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    Please don't bring that shill paranoia to this thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    Does anyone else get the impression that this post is slowly being invaded by shills who work for the frame manufacturers that we are buying from?

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    That's the LTK023, correct?
    That looks a lot like the Scott Scale frame, doesn't it?

    Does the frame have a tapered head tube?

  21. #821
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Choro View Post
    That looks a lot like the Scott Scale frame, doesn't it?

    Does the frame have a tapered head tube?
    Yes

  22. #822
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    My frame showed up from DengFu (seems to be the same frame as from LTK). Looks real nice, hopefully I can get pictures up tonight. Scratch on the chainstay all the way in the back, not concerned.

    Bought a seatpost also, looks real nice. Makes me wish I bought one when I bought my road frame from them. Bought two headsets, Neco branded just like my road frame. Comes with an expander style plug instead of starnut.

    I ordered 5 extra derailleur hangers and they sent the wrong ones. I'm going to email and see how that can get worked out...

    -Steve in NJ

  23. #823
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    So I got my Hong Fu frame tonight. It's pretty nice for the money. Composites layup quality is not what I'm used to seeing (aerospace composites), but for the price it is sufficient. As far as I can tell there are no major blemishes on my frame (3k, matte). The packaging was pretty sparse in my opinion. I think Hong Fu should do more to protect the frame during shipping, as I think I got pretty lucky.

    The main issues I see are the threads for the bottle cage holes. They appear to tapped at an angle.

    I mounted up my rear wheel to the frame (Ignitor 2.1 tire). The clearance is pretty tight, so I doubt anything larger than a true 2.2 would fit on the rear.

    I will try to post pictures later this week.

  24. #824
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    rear tire clearance

    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    So I got my Hong Fu frame tonight. It's pretty nice for the money. Composites layup quality is not what I'm used to seeing (aerospace composites), but for the price it is sufficient. As far as I can tell there are no major blemishes on my frame (3k, matte). The packaging was pretty sparse in my opinion. I think Hong Fu should do more to protect the frame during shipping, as I think I got pretty lucky.

    The main issues I see are the threads for the bottle cage holes. They appear to tapped at an angle.

    I mounted up my rear wheel to the frame (Ignitor 2.1 tire). The clearance is pretty tight, so I doubt anything larger than a true 2.2 would fit on the rear.

    I will try to post pictures later this week.
    Thanks for the update.

    Does anyone know which frame (HongFu, DengFu, LT Bike, etc.) - has the most rear tire clearance? I need me some volume for tubeless!
    thanks.

  25. #825
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    The use of, "mute" is a play on words in this case. Most people won't get. I guess you didn't.
    My hat's off to you for taking the plunge... Anyone who can make a pun about mutes certainly has the brass to trumpet it to the world.

  26. #826
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    Finish: UD matte ?

    Anyone have a frame w/ uni-directional (UD) and matte finish? Pic? please

    So close to pulling trigger.

  27. #827
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    Quote Originally Posted by raganwald View Post
    My hat's off to you for taking the plunge... Anyone who can make a pun about mutes certainly has the brass to trumpet it to the world.
    No, I didn't mean it that way. I ment that it is a topic that has been discussed already and the topic can be muted. Sorry if you took it that way.

  28. #828
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    hey guys... first real post here. I am getting back into mountain biking and I had a question on these frames.

    I am planning on getting this model From jenny at hong fu.

    http://www.dhgate.com/29er-mtb-finis...179b56379.html

    I was wondering if anyone knew the stand over height of the 17.5" frame?

    I currently ride a dual sus 26r and it has a clearance of 76cm (30"). I have no complaints about the ETT of my current ride but the stand over is pretty tight. I am a n00b to 29'r bikes and this build will be my first 29'r. Will the stand over height be raised at all with the larger wheels?

    I plan on running a fox f29 100rlc.

    Also... since I am here and jenny has not gotten back to me yet... Does anyone know what headsets I am limited to with the frame above? I want to run something I know will last a long time and perform well throughout.

    I have read through this entire post and have not found specific answers to these questions... so sorry if I missed something and I am asking stupid questions.

    Thanks.

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Rider weight: 210lbs
    Trails: Aggressive XC on technical, rocky, rooty single track
    Fork: 100-120mm suspension (to be determined)
    The MTB854 frame has a max driver weight limit of 90kg.
    The MTB753 and afaik the LTK023 have a max driver weight limit of 110kg.

    Keep in mind that with backpack, bottles etc. you should add some 10kg to your weight.

    I haven't found my ideal 29" carbon frame with inner tubing in 21"/XL size with a max driver weight of >=110kg yet.

  30. #830
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn
    The use of, "mute" is a play on words in this case. Most people won't get. I guess you didn't.
    Quote Originally Posted by raganwald View Post
    My hat's off to you for taking the plunge... Anyone who can make a pun about mutes certainly has the brass to trumpet it to the world.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    No, I didn't mean it that way. I ment that it is a topic that has been discussed already and the topic can be muted. Sorry if you took it that way.
    It seems I'm not nearly as hilarious as I think I am. You were talking about mute vs. moot. A mute (noun) is a device for softening the sound of a brass instrument. Most people are familiar with trumpet mutes. Two of the most common trumpet mutes are "plunger mutes" and "hat mutes," based on jazz musicians using the rubber head of a toilet plunger or their own hats to mute and control the sound.

    I thought I was making a funny. Absolutely no disapproval was intended.

  31. #831
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    Thanks - good to know

    Quote Originally Posted by Haldir View Post
    The MTB854 frame has a max driver weight limit of 90kg.
    The MTB753 and afaik the LTK023 have a max driver weight limit of 110kg.

    Keep in mind that with backpack, bottles etc. you should add some 10kg to your weight.

    I haven't found my ideal 29" carbon frame with inner tubing in 21"/XL size with a max driver weight of >=110kg yet.
    How did you find this info?

    Does anyone know the maximum rear tire clearance on the MTB753 or the LTK023 ?

    thanks!

  32. #832
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    How did you find this info? thanks!
    I mailed both companies to ask for the weight limit and they replied quite promptly, I was quite a bit suprised that they replied with an exact value. I'm quite certain that some retailers of the mtb854 won't mention any weight limit.

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    How did you find this info?

    Does anyone know the maximum rear tire clearance on the MTB753 or the LTK023 ?

    thanks!
    EMP? has the LTK023 frame with a Racing Ralph 2.25 and plenty of room....

    That's the frame I chose, but I did not know about the rider weight limits.... I'm 230 lbs geared up....

    Oh well.... At least I'm a smooth rider.......... We'll see how she fairs...........

  34. #834
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    doh

  35. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by vierzwanzig View Post
    hey guys... first real post here. I am getting back into mountain biking and I had a question on these frames.

    I am planning on getting this model From jenny at hong fu.

    http://www.dhgate.com/29er-mtb-finis...179b56379.html

    I was wondering if anyone knew the stand over height of the 17.5" frame?
    From looking at the chart, I have no clue what the stand over height is... the only number on the chart that is even close to that of my other frame is in the 60cm range (number also grows slightly with bigger frames).

    Anyone have any insight on this?

  36. #836
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    How did you find this info?

    Does anyone know the maximum rear tire clearance on the MTB753 or the LTK023 ?

    thanks!
    mtb753 I am about to pull the wtb prowler 2.1 (http://www.wtb.com/products/tires/29er/prowlersl29er/ those little outer knobs) off the back cause it is just too close. At least run tubeless. I think I can fit nano raptor 2.1s.
    Someone has posted a pic around here somewhere of the clearance.
    Was hoping for a bit more clearance, but the bike flys as a pure xc or racer's machine for the price.
    Edit: update, I just exacto trimmed the lugs on the prowler and now clearance is fine. I always heli tape that area anyways.
    Did I say this bike flys ! Thank god decent thick seatstays. Did I say .....
    Last edited by ghawk; 07-01-2011 at 06:14 PM.

  37. #837
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    the LTK023 frame with a Racing Ralph 2.25 - pic

    Quote Originally Posted by ghawk View Post
    Someone has posted a pic around here somewhere of the clearance.
    Was hoping for a bit more clearance, but the bike flys as a pure xc or racer's machine for the price.
    Some pics of the LTK023 w/ a 2.25 Racing Ralph

  38. #838
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    and alo matt ud carbon
    I did a few km's on it last night and itr went great
    so much nicer than the 2 xtc 29ers I had before it
    Im way over the 110kg max and i has giving it a beat down and its still alive lol
    Josh

  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by emp? View Post
    and alo matt ud carbon
    I did a few km's on it last night and itr went great
    so much nicer than the 2 xtc 29ers I had before it
    Im way over the 110kg max and i has giving it a beat down and its still alive lol
    With the crankset installed does there appear to be enough chainstay clearance to install a bashwich (replacement for the granny gear) ?

  40. #840
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    Quote Originally Posted by emp? View Post
    and alo matt ud carbon
    I did a few km's on it last night and itr went great
    so much nicer than the 2 xtc 29ers I had before it
    Im way over the 110kg max and i has giving it a beat down and its still alive lol
    Hi,
    Emp, I've been reading all your posts. Thanks for the info.
    I also want to order the LTK023 in UD matte finish.
    But on the LT Bike website when I click on all the different frames labeled LTK023, the closest choice to "UD matte" is UD raw. This one HERE

    Does "raw" mean no finish at all? Where's the UD matte choice?


    confused.

  41. #841
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    just tell em what you want matte finish when you order

    I doubt there would be room for a bashwich
    Ive got XX cranks with Beer BB and a 32t in the middle ring only just fits, like maybe 3-4mm to the chainstay
    Josh

  42. #842
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    Helpful geometry measurements

    THIS post by syl3 has lots of helpful frame measurements. Just thought I'd re-post.

  43. #843
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    Granted this is a 26 incher but I've been posting on here and I know some people like to see pics from people who actually get frames. Bought this on ebay from e_baygoods, ordered late at night on june 19th and just got the frame in today. The cost was $300 plus 70 for shipping; frame plus a carbon handlebar that looks much nicer than the pics online. Also received a seatpost clamp, extra derailleur hanger, and integrated headset at no charge.

    --> Sorry, in the years I've been using this site I still can't figure out how to post pictures.

  44. #844
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    anyone

  45. #845
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    get one with custom paint?

  46. #846
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    oops

  47. #847
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    OK, figured it out after a few minutes. I knew I had done it a few years ago once and completely forgot about the "additional options" section below. I'll get more pics up soon, give me a few days or so. I will also get a picture of the handlebar too.

    I know this has been a big question for a lot of people... tire clearance. I haven't installed anything on the bike yet and it might be awhile before I get this thing completely built but I took the tire from another bike and just "slide" it into the space. The tire is a 2.1 Tioga Psycho 2 but it's really more like a 2.2 size. Anyway, anything bigger would definitely not work. There is just enough space for that size tire and hopefully that won't give me any issues.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-267064_10150297811683086_535298085_9179126_4906679_o.jpg  


  48. #848
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    an email from LT Bike about the LTK023

    From longtengalisa@163.com:

    "Yes, we have a few of this model in UD with BSA in raw finish in stock now .
    The maximum rider weight for the LTK023 is 100kg and the the maximum rear tire size width is 2.3 inch .
    Any question, please contact me freely .
    Nice day for you .
    Alisa "

    So that's 220lbs for maximum rider weight.

  49. #849
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    120mm travel fork ?

    I searched this thread for the answer to no avail...

    Is anyone running a 120mm suspension fork on these frames? Specifically the LTK023?

    I found THESE PICS, but I'm not sure what fork it is.
    I don't wanna bother member emp? w/ any more questions.

    Oh yeah, anyone know which Cane Creek headset works w/ the LTK023 frame if using a suspension fork?


    thanks.

  50. #850
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    I took a couple pictures, large size so I'm not sure I want to just put them in the thread.

    http://www.gtluke.com/satanpez/Bike/FM038/

    If anyone wants something specific, let me know. It's going to take me awhile to build this up, Lefty fork on order...

    Pictured is the headset that came with the bike along with the seatpost. I would NOT suggest buying the seatpost unless a 300mm seatpost works for you.

    I already swapped it with the 400mm EC70 seatpost I had on my FM015 bike so it's no big deal for me. I didn't weigh it either but it didn't seem all that light.

    -Steve in NJ

  51. #851
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    Quote Originally Posted by Satanpez View Post
    I took a couple pictures, large size so I'm not sure I want to just put them in the thread.

    http://www.gtluke.com/satanpez/Bike/FM038/

    If anyone wants something specific, let me know. It's going to take me awhile to build this up, Lefty fork on order...

    Pictured is the headset that came with the bike along with the seatpost. I would NOT suggest buying the seatpost unless a 300mm seatpost works for you.

    I already swapped it with the 400mm EC70 seatpost I had on my FM015 bike so it's no big deal for me. I didn't weigh it either but it didn't seem all that light.

    -Steve in NJ
    Is this the LTK023?

  52. #852
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOLLYWOOD33 View Post
    Is this the LTK023?
    Half of a dozen, 6 of one?

    It's the DengFu FM039 which I suspect is exactly the same as the LTK023. Just...cheaper? I bought my road frame from them so I was comfortable buying my carbon frame from them. Derailleur cables are all internal, rear brake hose is internal.

    I am putting the geometry charts in that folder for anyone that's interested.

    -Steve in NJ

  53. #853
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    Quote Originally Posted by Satanpez View Post
    I took a couple pictures, large size so I'm not sure I want to just put them in the thread.

    http://www.gtluke.com/satanpez/Bike/FM038/

    If anyone wants something specific, let me know. It's going to take me awhile to build this up, Lefty fork on order...

    Pictured is the headset that came with the bike along with the seatpost. I would NOT suggest buying the seatpost unless a 300mm seatpost works for you.

    I already swapped it with the 400mm EC70 seatpost I had on my FM015 bike so it's no big deal for me. I didn't weigh it either but it didn't seem all that light.

    -Steve in NJ
    Thanks for sharing the pics!

    I notice people ordering many extra derailleur hangers, are carbon frames more prone to bent hangers?

    And lastly, is the headset heavy like people have mentioned?

  54. #854
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    Sorry I keep calling it the FM038, it's the FM039

  55. #855
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    1) The reason for the extra derailleurs are that they are $2 from the company where they are ~$20+ if you have to buy them in the US. They certainly aren't more prone to bending, however they do seem very weak compared to other hangers I've seen. This is actually a good thing as they're *supposed* to protect your frame and derailleur.

    I ordered 5 which comes out to $10. That's half the cost of one hanger in the US plus I'll have it laying around if I need it.

    2) The headset for this frame is NOT heavy as all it is is pretty much:
    Crown race
    Lower Bearing
    Upper Bearing
    Split Ring
    Two thin spacers
    Top Cap
    Expansion plug.& cap

    Possibly the expansion plug could be heavier than a starnut but it's all mostly aluminum.

    It's an integrated headset so there's not much that can go wrong. What's nice is the bearings came with the measurements on the sides so it's easier to go find a replacement if need be. I ordered two. $14 each

    I didn't this time as I have them laying around but I would also suggest buying the carbon stem spacers as for $5 they're decently priced.

    If I get taken care of with my hangers I may actually order a few of these frames for resale...

    -Steve in NJ

    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Thanks for sharing the pics!

    I notice people ordering many extra derailleur hangers, are carbon frames more prone to bent hangers?

    And lastly, is the headset heavy like people have mentioned?

  56. #856
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    Threw the wheels and fork on my frame (HF053, 3k matte finish) for fun. Need to get a shop to cut the steerer tube etc. I'm kind of wishing my fork was white instead of black, but I'll live with it.



    Rest of the pics are in this gallery. Excuse my crappy camera.

    http://min.us/mvbFpib (use arrow keys to go to different pictures)

  57. #857
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    So I got my Hong Fu frame tonight. It's pretty nice for the money. Composites layup quality is not what I'm used to seeing (aerospace composites), but for the price it is sufficient. As far as I can tell there are no major blemishes on my frame (3k, matte). The packaging was pretty sparse in my opinion. I think Hong Fu should do more to protect the frame during shipping, as I think I got pretty lucky.

    The main issues I see are the threads for the bottle cage holes. They appear to tapped at an angle.

    I mounted up my rear wheel to the frame (Ignitor 2.1 tire). The clearance is pretty tight, so I doubt anything larger than a true 2.2 would fit on the rear.

    I will try to post pictures later this week.
    thats the exact frame i wanted 3k/matte

    can you gimme a list of the frame specs? head tube sizes, seat tube, bottom bracket, etc

    thanks!

  58. #858
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    Quote Originally Posted by AkumaY View Post
    thats the exact frame i wanted 3k/matte

    can you gimme a list of the frame specs? head tube sizes, seat tube, bottom bracket, etc

    thanks!
    All of the frame specs are on this drawing:

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13171557/HF-...%2829er%29.pdf

    Other things to note:
    -I think the biggest rear brake rotor you can run is 160mm. There is very little clearance between the rotor and the frame on my bike. I think a 185mm rotor would run into the frame.

    -Rear tire clearance is fairly narrow. The drawings spec a max tire size of just over 2.1. I think you might be able to squeeze a 2.2 in there, but my 2.1 (Maxxis Ignitor Exo) is pretty tight as it is.

  59. #859
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    For those that have HongFu's frame, can you tell me what type front derailluer works ? High or Low, and clamp size?

  60. #860
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    Quote Originally Posted by dada85 View Post
    I want to know the quality can be guaranteed?

  61. #861
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    How much does a carbon-steel frame usally take off the weight compared to ordinary stell frames?

  62. #862
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericepark View Post
    For those that have HongFu's frame, can you tell me what type front derailluer works ? High or Low, and clamp size?
    34.9 clamp.

    high clamp (down swing)

    top pull

  63. #863
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas SH View Post
    How much does a carbon-steel frame usally take off the weight compared to ordinary stell frames?
    carbon-steel IS ordinary steel

  64. #864
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    http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/45...ike_frame.html

    looks like people are starting to import more in quantity looks just like mine except for more money don't deal with middle men go staright to the source in China. at $320 it can't be beat 1240 grams just shy of 3 lbs I am loving building out one of my glossy frames will post picks when I am done. already turned down $500 for just 1 frame.

    something tells me get the while you can, its insanity and what most likely happened is someone stole or found some sworks dies or mold or scott dies and thats how they are making copies. Because the steels dies is whats hard to come by OCLV the raw carbon fiber matts are cheap and easy to get.

  65. #865
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    damn... i payed a lot of extra money for the customer service at hong fu....

  66. #866
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ice Cold View Post
    http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/45...ike_frame.html

    looks like people are starting to import more in quantity looks just like mine except for more money don't deal with middle men go staright to the source in China. at $320 it can't be beat 1240 grams just shy of 3 lbs I am loving building out one of my glossy frames will post picks when I am done. already turned down $500 for just 1 frame.

    something tells me get the while you can, its insanity and what most likely happened is someone stole or found some sworks dies or mold or scott dies and thats how they are making copies. Because the steels dies is whats hard to come by OCLV the raw carbon fiber matts are cheap and easy to get.
    That's not a 29er is it?

  67. #867
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    34.9 clamp.

    high clamp (down swing)

    top pull

    Thank you

  68. #868
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    Ran into another issue today with the rear brake rotor on my frame (HF053). There isn't enough clearance between the frame and the rotor bolts...as the rotor spins around the bolt heads strike the inside of the frame. It looks like I'm going to have to rivet them on or find a lower profile bolt. The rear brake setup is a mess on this frame in my opinion.

    The hub I am using is Stans 3.30 with a standard 6 bolt mount, so I think this issue is purely down to the frame setup.

  69. #869
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ice Cold View Post
    something tells me get the while you can, its insanity and what most likely happened is someone stole or found some sworks dies or mold or scott dies and thats how they are making copies. Because the steels dies is whats hard to come by OCLV the raw carbon fiber matts are cheap and easy to get.
    I'm not saying these carbon frames aren't nice, because some of them are very nice! But these are NOT Trek's, Specialized's, Scott's, etc. Some of the frames look a little bit like other frames from big companies, but none of them are the same.

  70. #870
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    double post

  71. #871
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    I have the Hong Fu 29er HF053 and I noticed the max rotor it can run is 160mm. The clearance is very tight. I'm running Alligator center lock adapters, but clearance for where the bolts would be is also tight. I put a little clear bra on the inside so the rotor wont scratch the frame.



    I think the max tire is 2.1, I'm running IRC Mythos and the hairs rub the frame.


  72. #872
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    Thanks for the heads up

  73. #873
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    I just posted a bunch of pics in the general discussion forum on the chinese carbon frames. I didn't feel like re-posting 8-9 pics so I'll just include the link. I have pics with tire clearance and rotor clearance for the particular frame that I bought.

    Update on my ebay carbon hardtail

  74. #874
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    Here's some pictures of the issue I'm having with the rotor bolts hitting the post mount structure on the frame (HF053). Why would they design it like this...?

    This is taken from the underside of the frame.



    More pics in this gallery: http://min.us/mbRA9fe



    I don't know if i should just file down my rotor bolts? Or do they sell lower profile torx head bolts? There's maybe a half a millimeter of interference between them and the frame. Outside of buying a centerlock hub, what other options do I have?

  75. #875
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    Have you tried different hubs? Also you might be able to put a washer between the frame and hub, which pushes the frame away from the rotor. Not ideal, but I have seen it done on some bikes before.

  76. #876
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    Are those the X9 hubs?

  77. #877
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    MCS have you tried fitting the actual calipers yet? I would think if the bolts are rubbing on the mounts then the mounts may be too close for the calipers to align properly, even with the normal amount of adjustment you get.

  78. #878
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    Quote Originally Posted by lachstar2 View Post
    Have you tried different hubs? Also you might be able to put a washer between the frame and hub, which pushes the frame away from the rotor. Not ideal, but I have seen it done on some bikes before.
    I haven't tried different hubs yet. I guess I could throw the wheels from my 26er on there and see if I have the same issue. I might pick up a washer and try that.

    Quote Originally Posted by vierzwanzig View Post
    Are those the X9 hubs?
    The hubs are Stans 3.30.

    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    MCS have you tried fitting the actual calipers yet? I would think if the bolts are rubbing on the mounts then the mounts may be too close for the calipers to align properly, even with the normal amount of adjustment you get.
    I put the calipers on real quick to test this out. It appears that you can get them to fit without rubbing, but you need to slide them as far outward as you can to prevent the outside brake pad from rubbing the rotor.

    I don't know if this frame was designed with another brake/hub standard in mind. It is very frustrating.

  79. #879
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    My Fisher frame was sporting a MADE IN CHINA sticker on it when I bought it. So I'm gonna have to say I'm still gonna order one.

  80. #880
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post

    I don't know if i should just file down my rotor bolts? Or do they sell lower profile torx head bolts? There's maybe a half a millimeter of interference between them and the frame. Outside of buying a centerlock hub, what other options do I have?
    I would have already taken a dremel to the bolts you have and move on. Looks like you only need to grind down a very small portion of the head. Just make sure you don't cut into the area where the wrench goes (looks like you might have to, could make getting them off difficult). There's plenty of meat on those standard steel avid bolts, it won't be a safety issue.

    I have some ti bolts I bought on ebay a long time ago, they have smaller, more triangular heads.

    IMO another option would be to file a very small notch in that spot where the bolts hit. Before everybody starts with the I will admit that I have no idea if that area is solid or hollow but I'd bet the house its solid and taking a tiny bit off wouldn't cause an issue. Looks like the bolts already chipped it a little anyway.

  81. #881
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    I ordered the hong fu frame also (before I really read into tire clearance and other issues).... and now there are more and more unknowns... I wonder if you can shave a MM or 2 off the rotor where the bolts go through... the trouble would be keeping things very flat as your removing material. I would do that and shave the bolts down a bit.
    Last edited by vierzwanzig; 07-05-2011 at 12:32 PM.

  82. #882
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    I'm interested in a group buy frame for ~$320 so I can use spare parts for a single speed at a minimal investment. Would prefer not to buy from China, but as my wife is unemployed due to the economy, the savings are big compared to an USA made equivalent.

  83. #883
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    As mentioned previously I would try a small washer on the outside of the hubs to move the frame away from the rotor more.

    If it doesn't work you haven't lost anything, the frame and bolts are all still intact, if it does work then it will also help with caliper alignment.

    Have you sent Hong fu an email with the pics attached? It is entirely possible that the jig holding the caliper mount wasn't aligned to the mould properly and as such you have a "faulty" frame. It seems unusual that noone else is reporting similar problems

  84. #884
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    Quote Originally Posted by loddie View Post
    I'm interested in a group buy frame for ~$320 so I can use spare parts for a single speed at a minimal investment. Would prefer not to buy from China, but as my wife is unemployed due to the economy, the savings are big compared to an USA made equivalent.
    Why not do an individual buy on ebay for $300?

  85. #885
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    As mentioned previously I would try a small washer on the outside of the hubs to move the frame away from the rotor more.

    If it doesn't work you haven't lost anything, the frame and bolts are all still intact, if it does work then it will also help with caliper alignment.

    Have you sent Hong fu an email with the pics attached? It is entirely possible that the jig holding the caliper mount wasn't aligned to the mould properly and as such you have a "faulty" frame. It seems unusual that noone else is reporting similar problems
    If you put the washer on the hub end cap, would that make it slick and be a lot easier to slip out of the dropout?

  86. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by qdawgg View Post
    Why not do an individual buy on ebay for $300?
    huh? Which ebay are you looking at?

  87. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    I would have already taken a dremel to the bolts you have and move on. Looks like you only need to grind down a very small portion of the head. Just make sure you don't cut into the area where the wrench goes (looks like you might have to, could make getting them off difficult). There's plenty of meat on those standard steel avid bolts, it won't be a safety issue.
    +1
    and drop off the washers if you haven't already and don't over torque the bolts jus use a little locktyte and should be able to get off easily but will be quite solid 5 bolts. I wouldn't miter the frame, jus bolt heads. I have the same frame and clearance is pretty close on a wtb hub as well but is clear.
    If you washer the hub to the right you could get a bit better chainline too with several possible consequences.
    (Btw, I needed to adjust spacers with the crank bearings and on the cassette to get the tolerable chainline crossover I typically ride on a Shim 3 ring crank. I expected it on such a racey tight rear triangle.)
    - will affect rotor location depending on your brake caliper lateral adaptability this might not be a problem.
    -The big issue could be; with the tire clearance already at a premium you could need to dish the rim back to the center depending on tires you plan.
    -Also your cassette small cog clearance on the right seatstay could be tight. (not sure really have not looked at it)
    Very small changes laterally can possibly have large consequences when fitting big wheels on a race frame.
    So just do the bolt heads imho.
    Sorry, if this post is hard to read gotta go to bed hope it makes sense.
    imho, yrmv.
    If it was a problem with the mold or something I would expect it would be quite noticeable,
    like one post mount tab hole not lined up.
    I have one of those stans hubs built up if you want me to check it in my frame.
    Edit: ok i will check. But I think it will clear because I am running alligator iwave rotor that are thinner than most rotors.
    Which brings up another point, smaller bolt heads and less thick rotor.
    I would not throw the frame under the bus quite yet till you ride it
    Last edited by ghawk; 07-06-2011 at 03:45 AM.

  88. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002maniac View Post
    huh? Which ebay are you looking at?
    I've been posting here and on the general discussion board with the same topic. I didn't realize the 29er frames were so much more than the 26ers, my bad.

  89. #889
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghawk View Post
    +1
    and drop off the washers if you haven't already and don't over torque the bolts jus use a little locktyte and should be able to get off easily but will be quite solid 5 bolts. I wouldn't miter the frame, jus bolt heads. I have the same frame and clearance is pretty close on a wtb hub as well but is clear.
    If you washer the hub to the right you could get a bit better chainline too with several possible consequences.
    (Btw, I needed to adjust spacers with the crank bearings and on the cassette to get the tolerable chainline crossover I typically ride on a Shim 3 ring crank. I expected it on such a racey tight rear triangle.)
    - will affect rotor location depending on your brake caliper lateral adaptability this might not be a problem.
    -The big issue could be; with the tire clearance already at a premium you could need to dish the rim back to the center depending on tires you plan.
    -Also your cassette small cog clearance on the right seatstay could be tight. (not sure really have not looked at it)
    Very small changes laterally can possibly have large consequences when fitting big wheels on a race frame.
    So just do the bolt heads imho.
    Sorry, if this post is hard to read gotta go to bed hope it makes sense.
    imho, yrmv.
    If it was a problem with the mold or something I would expect it would be quite noticeable,
    like one post mount tab hole not lined up.
    I have one of those stans hubs built up if you want me to check it in my frame.
    If you could check your frame with the Stan's hubs that would be great. Right now I'm looking into finding some fasteners with a lower profile head. If that doesn't work out i'll be filing down the heads.

  90. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    The hubs are Stans 3.30.
    Have you taken the hubs apart at some point? Because I once mistakenly swapped the left and right axle endcaps, and ended up with a number of disc bolts impacting my frame as well!

    The non-driveside axle cap is longer than the driveside cap.

  91. #891
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    nvm... the post has been edited.

  92. #892
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    If you could check your frame with the Stan's hubs that would be great. Right now I'm looking into finding some fasteners with a lower profile head. If that doesn't work out i'll be filing down the heads.
    Im having the same issue with my Hong Fu frame. Running Stans ZTR hub with Shimano XT 6 bolt rotors and the bolt heads are skimming the frame. Really frustrating........ if it wasn't for this damn issue I'd be riding. At this point I m tempted to just take a file to the area where it rubs and like previously suggested "file a notch where it skims" but at the same time I m hesitant to do this as I have never owned a carbon frame before, let alone file one down....only options I guess are:

    1) find new bolts with smaller heads (not likely as the shimano triangular looking bolt heads I have are already quite tiny)

    2) new rear hub/ wheel w/ center lock hubs (this seems too far off just to accommodate damn frame)

    3) file bolt heads down ( honestly I'd hate to have to do this)

    4) file notch in frame where it skims

    any suggestions let me know..... MCS5280 whatcha route you gonna do man? I seriously leaning towards filing the damn frame ...... ahhhh headache. Obviously the QC at Hong Fu is very poor for this to happen.

  93. #893
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    as stated above... the only issue that can arise from shaving the bolt down, is stripping it upon removal. As long as you use some good lock-tite on the bolts when you install them (and dont torque them like crazy) then you should be fine. In the past, I have heated up stuck bolts prior to removal... I have noticed that the heat will soften up most types of lock-tite in the threads

  94. #894
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    Quote Originally Posted by funnyjr View Post
    Im having the same issue with my Hong Fu frame. Running Stans ZTR hub with Shimano XT 6 bolt rotors and the bolt heads are skimming the frame. Really frustrating........ if it wasn't for this damn issue I'd be riding. At this point I m tempted to just take a file to the area where it rubs and like previously suggested "file a notch where it skims" but at the same time I m hesitant to do this as I have never owned a carbon frame before, let alone file one down....only options I guess are:

    1) find new bolts with smaller heads (not likely as the shimano triangular looking bolt heads I have are already quite tiny)

    2) new rear hub/ wheel w/ center lock hubs (this seems too far off just to accommodate damn frame)

    3) file bolt heads down ( honestly I'd hate to have to do this)

    4) file notch in frame where it skims

    any suggestions let me know..... MCS5280 whatcha route you gonna do man? I seriously leaning towards filing the damn frame ...... ahhhh headache. Obviously the QC at Hong Fu is very poor for this to happen.
    really, really don't do #4. I don't know your frame but I'd probably force a big washer between the frame and hub where the axle is as long as the stays aren't crazy stiff.

  95. #895
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    If you could check your frame with the Stan's hubs that would be great. Right now I'm looking into finding some fasteners with a lower profile head. If that doesn't work out i'll be filing down the heads.
    Yup, just checked it's the hubs.
    Even with my Alligator iwave rotors that are about .56mm thin (note but WITH washers) there is a very slight rub. (from your pics, looks like you have more clearance than I would with thicker rotor) If I were to put something like avid rotors on there which are about 1.04mm even without washer I would have to miter the bolt heads. Which is very EASY to do btw if you have a dremel set. (If you don't and you are doing bike builds....you need one.) Note, you might find some flat head bolts at Ace or Home depot. (big maybe on that)
    This is not the first time I have had problems with Stans hubs both front and back. Back you have to always check the tightness as the are easily unscrewed without locking bolts. Sometimes in the middle of a ride. Front, 15mm endcaps will just fall out on you when you are putting the fork in because they press fit very poorly. That said, I have had really good luck with their rims and love the lightweight economical wheels they do for tubless setups.
    So for everyone throwing their 053 frames under the school bus. Ya might want to try the awesome ride for the price first.

  96. #896
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    carbon-steel IS ordinary steel

    I'm in the music/audio field. It was da bomb 25 years ago when loudspeaker manufacturers (including the one I worked for at that time) added the prefix "graphite-impregnated" in front of the word "polypropylene" describing their woofer diaphragms. Psssst..don't tell anyone, but graphite is one of the ultra-secret ingredients comprising black paint.
    Last edited by ro7939; 07-08-2011 at 01:20 PM.
    jimbo

    www.jamesromeyn.com Music and Audio, LLC
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  97. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by daves4mtb View Post
    It's disappointing to hear this stuff about the Hong Fu frame and the brake rub. I haven't built mine up yet, but if I have that problem I might be inclined to just junk it, as I wouldn't have much faith in the rest of it.
    you signed up just to write that?

  98. #898
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    Looks pretty cool!

  99. #899
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    Quote Originally Posted by finch2 View Post
    really, really don't do #4. I don't know your frame but I'd probably force a big washer between the frame and hub where the axle is as long as the stays aren't crazy stiff.
    So I took the plunge today and took a file to shave down the problem area where the rotor bolts skim the frame. Got about 1.5mm clearance now. Wheel spins freely like a charm. Honestly, it was not a big deal at all. What I filed off was simply minimal top epoxy layer. I have no concerns whatsoever with de-lamination of carbon weave or detriments to frames integrity. Nada, problem solved. If you really want to pay attention to detail I guess can simply cover area filed down w/ a coat of clear or black touch up. Thats what I'll eventually do. Just becareful when filing and only take as much off as needed in problem spot. File on.

  100. #900
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    you signed up just to write that?


    Having really found anything really that wrong with the hf53/frame I have. wheel clearance is tight, chainline is tight. Bike is really racey and flys uphill.
    If I were young like most of you guys I would run something like a Sram XX 2x 39/26 on it.

    I have been doing this stuff for a long time and had many expensive mountain bikes over the last 20 years with various little problems; but none of this quality for under 600 bucks shipped for the frame.

    I tried a Stans hub also and it is the hub clearance mentioned previously and not a misalignment. I have allot of wheels so I simply used another otherwise I would have simply ground the bolt heads a bit. NOT the frame.
    I mean I don't see anything wrong if there is a metal yoke in there and you don't take too much of the supporting carbon away in an area that probably needs to be optiomal because of the forces exerted on it when braking. .


    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    Threw the wheels and fork on my frame (HF053, 3k matte finish) for fun. Need to get a shop to cut the steerer tube etc. I'm kind of wishing my fork was white instead of black, but I'll live with it.

    http://min.us/mvbFpib (use arrow keys to go to different pictures)
    Switching topics, Mash looking at your 2011 Talas 95/120 29 it does not look like the stancions are Kashima coated. I am wondering cause I just got one it that looks the same. I compared it to 2 other older Talas's I have and really do not see the difference. Thanks for great pics btw. Edit: Never mind I just talked to Andy I did not realize they sold 2011 forks without the coating.
    Last edited by glovemtb; 07-06-2011 at 03:47 PM.

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