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  1. #7801
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    Completely disassembled my BB30 today, removed all grease from bearings, replaced with new. Greased bearing cups, spindle, pressed it all back into BB, and it still clicks and cracks! Could it be that BB itself is loose?
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  2. #7802
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    Completely disassembled my BB30 today, removed all grease from bearings, replaced with new. Greased bearing cups, spindle, pressed it all back into BB, and it still clicks and cracks! Could it be that BB itself is loose?
    I don't have much to suggest here. If you are sure the clicking/popping sound is coming from the BB, all I can suggest is you make sure you have torqued the BB and the crank properly using a torque wrench. Having the correct torque is very important on most bicycle components, particularly so with anything that assembles to carbon. Check your pedals, cleats, seat post, etc. Sometimes it is difficult to know for sure where the noise is coming from.

    I've read several BB30 complaints and while some people have had good luck with it, I'm sticking with BSA as I would not notice any benefit to BB30 in my opinion. BSA just seems to work for me so I have stuck with it.

  3. #7803
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    I don't have much to suggest here. If you are sure the clicking/popping sound is coming from the BB, all I can suggest is you make sure you have torqued the BB and the crank properly using a torque wrench. Having the correct torque is very important on most bicycle components, particularly so with anything that assembles to carbon. Check your pedals, cleats, seat post, etc. Sometimes it is difficult to know for sure where the noise is coming from.

    I've read several BB30 complaints and while some people have had good luck with it, I'm sticking with BSA as I would not notice any benefit to BB30 in my opinion. BSA just seems to work for me so I have stuck with it.
    Yep, only after i tried BB30, i realize that good old BSA is still bloody good.

    Pedals is not clicking - checked. Seatpost or saddle is not clicking - i pedalled not sitting on the saddle. Crank arm is screwed using torque wrench... still clicking.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  4. #7804
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    I am not a fan of BB30. The only reason I have mine is because I wanted to run a BEER EBB for single speed. Fortunately, I have had no issues. If I were you, I'd probably ditch the BB30 crank and go with one of these. KCNC/RWC BB30 to GXP BB Adapter with Enduro ZERO Bearings
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  5. #7805
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    The only possible problem that i may have - my FSA K-Force crankset, which is absolute crap. Do not ever buy this thing.
    I am unable to find a temporarily replacement to check, whether it is my crankset clicks or BB.
    Just in case, i started collecting Cannondale Hollowgram crankset piece by piece from ebay. Already found MTB spindle cheap enough...
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  6. #7806
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    The only possible problem that i may have - my FSA K-Force crankset, which is absolute crap. Do not ever buy this thing.
    I am unable to find a temporarily replacement to check, whether it is my crankset clicks or BB.
    Just in case, i started collecting Cannondale Hollowgram crankset piece by piece from ebay. Already found MTB spindle cheap enough...
    Which K-force do you have? The double, triple or light(386 compact)?
    I have the 386 compact in SL-K line...it is 86BCD...not much out there for it.
    I am happy with it, and it is a friggin good looking crank.
    If you want to go 1x, FSA is coming out with their Megatooth sometime soon.
    You might repress with copper anti-seize or some use Loctite(look it up) - on the outside of the bearing. The belief being, there are gaps or play between the bearing and bottom bracket area.
    There have been a lot of Chinese frames sold - in BB30 and not many complaints...I was thinking that their tolerances are better than others(maybe people haven't complainted bc.they are the Chinese frames). Clicking, is your bearing bad?
    Technically, BB30 is not much different than BMX bikes.
    Lastly, you say can't find a replacement? and you are going to Hollogram. or BB30 is quite common, you can try lots of different cranks?

  7. #7807
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Which K-force do you have? The double, triple or light(386 compact)?
    I have the 386 compact in SL-K line...it is 86BCD...not much out there for it.
    I am happy with it, and it is a friggin good looking crank.
    If you want to go 1x, FSA is coming out with their Megatooth sometime soon.
    You might repress with copper anti-seize or some use Loctite(look it up) - on the outside of the bearing. The belief being, there are gaps or play between the bearing and bottom bracket area.
    There have been a lot of Chinese frames sold - in BB30 and not many complaints...I was thinking that their tolerances are better than others(maybe people haven't complainted bc.they are the Chinese frames). Clicking, is your bearing bad?
    Technically, BB30 is not much different than BMX bikes.
    Lastly, you say can't find a replacement? and you are going to Hollogram. or BB30 is quite common, you can try lots of different cranks?
    I've got older revision of triple MTB K-Force, with "rounder" crank arms


    Crappy thing about it - pedal inserts gets loose with time, and it is a common thing with K-Force cranksets.

    To prevent gaps between bearings and BB making noice, i have greased this area. I could be wrong, but at least after greasing, it should be not clicking, but it clicks, and even grinding when accelerating hardly.

    About replacement - i cant find BB30 cranks locally, here in Kazakhstan - just to check, without actually buying them. And hollowgrams, i go to it because right pedal insert in my K-Force got loose, i fixed it with a big washer, but it is ugly and will not last. So i will go to Hollowgram, when i will buy complete set.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  8. #7808
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    Annoying clicking sound could be from any of many bike's parts - from derailer hanger to stem. Best solution is to go full dissasemble, cleaning, lubing and back. Or as you have carbon cranks - it's also one of devil's details.

  9. #7809
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    I have XX1 carbon cranks on two different bikes and I can attest that XX1 carbon cranks are no more likely to creak than a set of aluminum cranks. The carbon is rigidly bonded to the aluminum in the crank arms so there is no movement between the carbon and aluminum.

  10. #7810
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    Funny thing is that bb30 version of such cranks is not that creaky like GXP which I have.

  11. #7811
    Dropshot Champ!
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    check the area around the bb, mine cracked awhile ago around where the metal BB cups were epoxied/bonded to the carbon frame.

    It was replaced free of charge and it shipped in 2 days [carbonal]

  12. #7812
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    SID with brain. I've got it!

  13. #7813
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    IP-256sl size 19, weight 21lbs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-image.jpg  


  14. #7814
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    Dear All,
    Hope all of you are well. I have made a custom clearance last Saturday morning and I was very lucky to get a tax free on the package. Some inside information, if you order a complete bike assembly at any amount of cost it will be tax free. But if you order bicycle parts with some quantity it may be subjected for customs inspection. Also, for any importation goods up to USD 157.00 will be no tax.

    So, I have already building the frame from Saturday and Sunday, all assembly on the rigid fork, headset, the cables and brake hose goes in very well with no problem. from the look, the frame finish quality and the paintings are just superb with no complaint, thank to Peter and his team. But one thing that I discovered on the plastic tube attached on the cables and rear brake hose routing. Luckily, before I start to install the cables I made an inspection via the head tube to see how does all these route goes inside. And to my surprise, all the three tube are sort of tangled up (not in line as what it supposed to be). So I have to spend a bit of time to carefully remove the tubes from the top and aligned it accordingly as per specs, quite a challenge though. If I did not inspect this, sure the shifting will be a big problem and it will definitely rub against the rear brake hose which eventually could cause a leak. So all that sorted out. The only left right not which holds back the building is, I was not able to use my current FSA double carbon chain ring crank (42T/29T) as it touched the FD (E-Type direct mount). So the solution is, I need to get another crankset with a proper 29er ratio of 38T/26T which will fit it well into the FD. With limited budget, I will go for XT Crankset and I hope I can still maintain the total bike weight target of 8.0kg. Now with everything but without the crankset, pedals, chain and bike meter/sensor is already 7.4kg. I guess I might be slightly of 8.0kg and I presume it will be probably 8.5kg. Will update you guys later with the build photos, cheers and take care.

  15. #7815
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    A miracle! One ride after greasing everything in BB, and voila, no clicking! Such a relief to know that there is no problems with frame.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  16. #7816
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    A miracle! One ride after greasing everything in BB, and voila, no clicking! Such a relief to know that there is no problems with frame.
    Good to hear - hope it holds for ya...again, you may need something more substantive to fill in the difference between the BB and the bearings.

  17. #7817
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Good to hear - hope it holds for ya...again, you may need something more substantive to fill in the difference between the BB and the bearings.
    My friend has some loctite, i think it might help.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  18. #7818
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    My Final Build IP-256

    Dear All,
    Attached photo is my final build of my own brand 'Azmie' (IP-256). Due to the crankset that I am not able to re-use my FSA Carbon Crank - K-Force Light (2-Chainrings), therefore I need to settle down temporarily for a 2nd hand Shimano XT Crankset (26T/38T). So the total bike weight is 9.0kg, my target was 8.0kg. Anyway here are by breakdown group sets;

    1) Saddle - Fizik Gobi.
    2) Seat Post - Scandium KCNC.
    3) Seat Post Clamp - No Brand (from Ximplay).
    4) Handle Bar (Straight) - Scandium KCNC.
    5) Handle Stem (90mm / 0 deg) - Scandium KCNC.
    6) Spacer - Carbon (No Brand).
    7) Headset - No Brand (from Ximplay).
    8) Handle Grip - Sram.
    9) Brakeset - Avid Elixer CR.
    10) Shifters - Sram 9S Gripshift.
    11) Bottom Bracket Bearing - Ceramic Bearing by CEMA.
    12) Crankset - Shimano XT (26T/38T).
    13) Pedal - Time ATAC Roc S.
    14 FD - Shimano XT (E-Type Direct Mount).
    15) RD - Sram XO 9S.
    16) Cassette - Sram XX1 9S.
    17) Brake Rotor - Sram XX1.
    18) Hubset - Hope Pro2.
    19) Spoke - DT Swiss.
    20) Nipple - DT Swiss.
    21) Rims - ZTR Crest (White).
    22) Tyres - Schwalble Ralph Racing 2.1 (Tubeless).
    21) Shifter Cable - Jagwire MTB Pro.
    22) Brake Hose - Jagwire Hyflow.
    23) Bottle Cage (Carbon) - Look (by Ximplay).
    24) Water Bottle - Local Brand.
    25) Chain (Gold) - KMC.
    I have not fully test ride the bike yet at this moment but just a few very short ride to test the brakes and shifting. I am looking forward to fully test it this coming Sunday morning for a on road test first. The later will go for off road. Regards to all, cheers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-20140726_161536.jpg  


  19. #7819
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    great looking 29er. happy riding!

  20. #7820
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    IP-256 SL frame in all sizes with both BSA and BB30 are available in stock now

    Please feel free to contact me if you need them

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520

  21. #7821
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    Hello there,
    as i went away with 1X11, i'm thinking of going all internal on my IP-106.
    so, routing the rear brake cable through the downtube, exit will be right under the BB.
    So, the frame mold was originally designed to have two exits under the bb. one is not drilled out yet. The other is. Should i dremel the second one out?

    Chinese Carbon 29er-foto.jpg
    any advice?

  22. #7822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azmie68 View Post
    Dear All,
    So the total bike weight is 9.0kg, my target was 8.0kg.
    How do you guys do that? I have 9 kg with tiny 700x28 slicks, when you all achieve this weight with dirt tires...
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  23. #7823
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    How do you guys do that? I have 9 kg with tiny 700x28 slicks, when you all achieve this weight with dirt tires...
    He's riding the bike with a rigid fork. That save 1000gr compared to a suspension fork.
    My IP-256SL buildlist: [here]

  24. #7824
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    It seems there's very little info on these bikes online, very few people seem to actually ride them, but this is my CARBONAL ORION








  25. #7825
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    How do you guys do that? I have 9 kg with tiny 700x28 slicks, when you all achieve this weight with dirt tires...
    I think you hit on the main thread through here....majority XC riding can be handled by a rigid fork...a dropper isn't needed and 1x will handle it
    Never saw a list of your components...do that either here or in weight weenies for some feedback.

    Did you try the cyclo tires for the next race?

    Pr3dator - did you fix your click?

  26. #7826
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    As they say, "Grams make kilos, ounces make pounds". I'd bet a slightly more weight conscious approach would knock a pound or more off, with little to no rise in price.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Death from Below.

  27. #7827
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by MTB2223 View Post
    He's riding the bike with a rigid fork. That save 1000gr compared to a suspension fork.
    I too have a rigid fork, just 560 grams. And no dropper. The only "heavy" part is 3 speed crankset. And, i think that my wheels is a little bit on a heavy side.
    Will post list of my components later today
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  28. #7828
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    Nazar, if you want to build a light bike, you've to pay much attention for every component ;-)
    As I remember, you've enough heavy wheels, tires, seatpost-stem and saddle.

  29. #7829
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    Arman_a, I saw on your bike picture, you use oval chainrings.
    How this helps your pedalling?

  30. #7830
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    My Honsen HM-256 build

    Here is my build of a 256 frame, 142x12 rear.
    It comes from a relatively unknown provider in this forum: honsenbikes.com
    Leo there was very professional and helpful.
    The frame was shipped a little more than 4 weeks after my payment as planned.

    It is built with a Lefty fork.
    Hope Race/E4 brakes.
    XX1 groupset.
    30mm hookless carbon rims, from light-bicycle.com
    And it weights 9.05 Kg.

    I just can't stop riding it!

    Thank you for all the information available in this thread, that really helped me build my first bike.




    Last edited by carbonazza; 08-04-2014 at 04:58 AM.

  31. #7831
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonazza View Post
    Arman_a, I saw on your bike picture, you use oval chainrings.
    How this helps your pedalling?
    The oval chainring reduces the force you need to apply to rotate cranks in dead points.
    But I can't say that there is some real effect on practice - not on my level, for somebody like Schurter - may be.

  32. #7832
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    Chinese Carbon 29er-2014-05-10-12.28.08-1.jpg

    Here is my setup with rigid fork and slicks.
    1. Frame - Xmiplay IP-057 - 1260 gr
    2. 12mm dropouts - xmiplay - 39 gr
    3. BB Bearings - FSA BB30 - 100 gr
    4. Front wheel - 2012 Fulcrum Red Power XL 29 15mm (w/5mm adapter) - 918 gr
    5. Rear wheel - Fulcrum Red Power XL 29 12mm QR - 1092 gr
    6. Front skewer - 5 mm American Classic - 35 gr
    7. Rear axle - 12x142 mm Novatec - 74 gr
    8. Rigid fork - One Ghost Industries OG Carbon Rigid SL Tapered - 550 gr
    9. Front derailleur - Shimano XT FD-M781 Silver 3X10 - 155 gr
    10. Rear derailleur - SRAM X0 type 2 Black long - 255 gr
    11. Rear shifter - SRAM X0 10spd (w/mismatch adapter and cable) - 160 gr
    12. Front shifter SRAM X0 3spd silver (w mismatch adapter and cable) - 134 gr
    13. Front brake - Shimano XTR 985 Race (w/finned pads and adapter) - 261 gr
    14. Rear brake - Shimano XTR 985 Race (w/finned pads) - 249 gr
    15. Front rotor - Shimano SM-RT86-M 180 mm (w/bolts and plates) - 145 gr
    16. Rear rotor - Shimano SM-RT86-S 160 mm (w/bolts) - 128 gr
    17. Headset upper assembly - Cane Creek 40 IS42 - no weight
    18. Headset lower bearing - Cane Creek 110 IS52 (w/crown race) - 35 gr
    19. Fsa Headtube Compressor - 41 gr
    20. Stem - FSA OS-99 (w/bolts, China) - 131 gr
    21. Handlebar - FSA K-Force XC Riser 31.8 660 mm - 173 gr
    22. Saddle - Specialized Romin Expert 168 - 234 gr
    23. Seatpost - FSA K-Force 31.6, 400mm, sb25 - 255 gr
    24. Seatpost clamp - Procraft SPK1 34,9 - 10 gr
    25. Crankset - FSA K-Force Triple 42-32-22 (w/wavy washer and bearing shields) - 622 gr
    26. Pedals - Shimano XT PD-M780 - 343 gr
    27. Cassette - Shimano CS-M771-10, 11-36T - 337 gr
    28. Chain - Shimano XT CN-HG95 10 spd - 280 gr
    29. Tubes - Schwalbe SV15 28'' - 108 gr
    30. Front & Rear tyre - Schwalbe Ultremo 700x28c - 482 gr


    There may be some inaccuracy in weights, and some parts were not weighed at all. But all major components are here. Total weight assembled is around 9 kilos.

    And yes, wheels are heavy. This is actually first component that will be changed on this bike. Right now, i am thinking about assembling a wheelset, based on ZTR Crest rims.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  33. #7833
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Nazar, actually all of your components are heavy, except crankset.
    for example:
    on pedals you can save at least 70 g
    saddle - about 70 g
    and so or more on every part, I think

  34. #7834
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arman_a View Post
    saddle - about 70 g
    Even up to 140 g with full carbon saddle.

  35. #7835
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    So I am interested in purchasing one of these frames. Is the consensus that eBay is the best place to buy one, or is there somewhere else I should be looking?

  36. #7836

  37. #7837

  38. #7838

  39. #7839
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by $trafer View Post
    Even up to 140 g with full carbon saddle.
    After 5 or 6 saddles, Romin pro is actually first one that i feel comfortable enough under my bottom
    If you can recommend ergonomic and wide enough carbon saddle, go ahead
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  40. #7840
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    If you can recommend ergonomic and wide enough carbon saddle, go ahead
    I have pretty wide ass, so many carbon saddles don't fit my bottom too, but such kind rules for me really. Honest wide of 143 mm and supple rails. And by the way just 90-95 g

  41. #7841
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    Don't forget that carbon saddle may be very comfortable, but it is for road use only.
    On a trail you'll have problems with its sharp edges.

  42. #7842
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arman_a View Post
    On a trail you'll have problems with its sharp edges.
    I have no problem with it, edges are smooth enough. If no — you can use sand paper

  43. #7843
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    Prices is good, and shapes are like specialized saddles. But only 143mm width, which is too narrow for me. 155mm would be better, but i cannot find any.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  44. #7844
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    But only 143mm width, which is too narrow for me. 155mm would be better, but i cannot find any.
    Hooooo, in this case you have really big problem with chinese carbon saddles. I never seen such width.

  45. #7845
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    Quote Originally Posted by $trafer View Post
    Hooooo, in this case you have really big problem with chinese carbon saddles. I never seen such width.
    My Romin is even 168mm. But 155 felt good too.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  46. #7846
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2014-05-10 12.28.08-1.jpg 
Views:	594 
Size:	194.1 KB 
ID:	913114

    Here is my setup with rigid fork and slicks.
    1. Frame - Xmiplay IP-057 - 1260 gr
    2. 12mm dropouts - xmiplay - 39 gr
    3. BB Bearings - FSA BB30 - 100 gr
    4. Front wheel - 2012 Fulcrum Red Power XL 29 15mm (w/5mm adapter) - 918 gr
    5. Rear wheel - Fulcrum Red Power XL 29 12mm QR - 1092 gr
    6. Front skewer - 5 mm American Classic - 35 gr
    7. Rear axle - 12x142 mm Novatec - 74 gr
    8. Rigid fork - One Ghost Industries OG Carbon Rigid SL Tapered - 550 gr
    9. Front derailleur - Shimano XT FD-M781 Silver 3X10 - 155 gr
    10. Rear derailleur - SRAM X0 type 2 Black long - 255 gr
    11. Rear shifter - SRAM X0 10spd (w/mismatch adapter and cable) - 160 gr
    12. Front shifter SRAM X0 3spd silver (w mismatch adapter and cable) - 134 gr
    13. Front brake - Shimano XTR 985 Race (w/finned pads and adapter) - 261 gr
    14. Rear brake - Shimano XTR 985 Race (w/finned pads) - 249 gr
    15. Front rotor - Shimano SM-RT86-M 180 mm (w/bolts and plates) - 145 gr
    16. Rear rotor - Shimano SM-RT86-S 160 mm (w/bolts) - 128 gr
    17. Headset upper assembly - Cane Creek 40 IS42 - no weight
    18. Headset lower bearing - Cane Creek 110 IS52 (w/crown race) - 35 gr
    19. Fsa Headtube Compressor - 41 gr
    20. Stem - FSA OS-99 (w/bolts, China) - 131 gr
    21. Handlebar - FSA K-Force XC Riser 31.8 660 mm - 173 gr
    22. Saddle - Specialized Romin Expert 168 - 234 gr
    23. Seatpost - FSA K-Force 31.6, 400mm, sb25 - 255 gr
    24. Seatpost clamp - Procraft SPK1 34,9 - 10 gr
    25. Crankset - FSA K-Force Triple 42-32-22 (w/wavy washer and bearing shields) - 622 gr
    26. Pedals - Shimano XT PD-M780 - 343 gr
    27. Cassette - Shimano CS-M771-10, 11-36T - 337 gr
    28. Chain - Shimano XT CN-HG95 10 spd - 280 gr
    29. Tubes - Schwalbe SV15 28'' - 108 gr
    30. Front & Rear tyre - Schwalbe Ultremo 700x28c - 482 gr


    There may be some inaccuracy in weights, and some parts were not weighed at all. But all major components are here. Total weight assembled is around 9 kilos.

    And yes, wheels are heavy. This is actually first component that will be changed on this bike. Right now, i am thinking about assembling a wheelset, based on ZTR Crest rims.
    Yes, your wheels are your biggest savings...500 to 600 grams there depending on what you spend.
    Saddle, as above
    if you went to pedals - upwards of 100g
    brake discs...50 to 100g
    small and expensive from here:
    brakes....m987 - 70+g...formula r1...150+g
    cassette - 70ish grams
    chain - 20-40g
    seatpost - 50-80g
    handlebar - 20-30g
    stem - 15-30g
    starnut - ?
    derailleur's to xx or xtr
    from where you are at - I would just look at doing the wheels at some point.

  47. #7847
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Yes, your wheels are your biggest savings...500 to 600 grams there depending on what you spend.
    Saddle, as above
    if you went to pedals - upwards of 100g
    brake discs...50 to 100g
    small and expensive from here:
    brakes....m987 - 70+g...formula r1...150+g
    cassette - 70ish grams
    chain - 20-40g
    seatpost - 50-80g
    handlebar - 20-30g
    stem - 15-30g
    starnut - ?
    derailleur's to xx or xtr
    from where you are at - I would just look at doing the wheels at some point.
    Thank you.

    Thank you. Wheels will be changed for sure later on.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  48. #7848
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    Aaaand, we are clicking again! Congratulate me
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

  49. #7849
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    My Romin is even 168mm
    But its weight is 234 g. We say about weight, don't we?

  50. #7850
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonazza View Post
    Here is my build of a 256 frame, 142x12 rear.
    It is built with a Lefty fork.

    How do you like the new Lefty? Is it plush enough? I've heard they are not as plush as the older models (but are significantly easier to maintain).

    What headset/adapters did you use to install it?

  51. #7851
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    The weights of your components compare to mine aren't actually crazy different, mine are all decent, proven parts which aren't massively lightweight (certainly not all Chinese carbon) and it's still under 8.5kg.

    Frame Carbonal Orion 1250
    Forks Niner 575
    Headset FSA 105
    Top Cap FSA 39
    Bars Ritchey WCS 170
    Stem Thomson 168
    Grips ESI Extra Chunky 56
    Barends ESI 6
    Matchmaker Hope Tech Matchmaker 16
    Front Brake Hope Stealth Tech X2 EVO 204
    Front Rotor Hope Floating Rotor 99
    Front Rotor Bolts Hope 7
    Rear Shifter SRAM XX 80
    Shifter Cable Generic 30
    Front Rim Stans ZTR Crest 0
    Front Spokes Sapim Race 0
    Front Hub Hope Pro2 EVO 777
    Front QR Halo 31
    Front Tyre Rocket Ron Evolution 495
    Seatpost Thomson 247
    Seat clamp Hope 25
    Seat Boardman 250
    BB SRAM BB92 GXP Pressfit 88
    Cranks Sram XX1 576
    Chainring Sram XX1 0
    Chain Connex 10S8 323
    Pedals Time ATAC 393
    Rear Brake Hope Stealth Tech X2 EVO 219
    Rear Rotor Hope Floating Rotor 99
    Rear Rotor Bolts Hope 7
    Rear Rim Stans ZTR Crest 0
    Rear Spokes Sapim Race 0
    Rear Hub Hope Pro2 EVO 911
    Rear QR Halo 36
    Rear Tyre Rocket Ron Evolution 536
    Cassette PG1050 353
    Lockring SRAM 11
    Mech Sram X0 200

    Total 8382

  52. #7852
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    pamik, yes I like it. I didn't notice it was stiffer than the Lefty I have on my Cannondale Rush 2008.
    I'm glad to read it is easier to maintain.

    Here are the headset components I used:
    Cane Creek 40.IS52 Bottom Headset
    Cane Creek 40.IS42 Tall Cover Top Headset
    And the tapered steerer tube and top plug from:
    PROJECT 321 | Products: Tapered Fixed Crown Lefty Adapter


    The headtube of the 19" is 120mm, and the stack makes the exact 137mm between the Lefty crowns.
    I thought I would need a 2mm spacer but the red washer of the steerer added the 2mm.

    The project 321 top washer/spacer is flush against the bottom of the top crown.
    I used the lefty crowns to compress gently the headset pieces together.
    So, in theory, there is no need of a compression plug.

  53. #7853
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    6+ month and easily a couple thousand miles on the bike update.
    I have had my IP-056 for 6+ months now.
    I have put this bike through its paces from long sustained climbing to fast rocky downhills to fast tight rolling single track.
    I have had a couple of hard crashes along the way as well which comes with territory when you push the speed envelope.
    From day one I have been hard on the bike riding wise without even thinking twice about structural integrity of the frame.
    The bike has been pounded and has performed flawlessly over the last 6+ months
    Too anyone who is reading this thread and are having second thoughts about buying one of these frames dont be afraid.
    I have 25 years of racing and riding experience some of it at a top level over the years.
    I have ridden and raced many a bike over the years and these frames are the real deal for what they are.
    Cheers!

  54. #7854
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    Any feedback on this frame?2014 New Light 18 inch UD Matt 29er MTB Bike Carbon Frame BB92 Rear Hanger | eBay

    I think that the chainstay length is 450mm.Isn't it too long for XC?My Cube Reaction has 440 and most chinese frames 440 or 445

  55. #7855
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidglove13 View Post
    6+ month and easily a couple thousand miles on the bike update.
    I have had my IP-056 for 6+ months now.
    I have put this bike through its paces from long sustained climbing to fast rocky downhills to fast tight rolling single track.
    I have had a couple of hard crashes along the way as well which comes with territory when you push the speed envelope.
    From day one I have been hard on the bike riding wise without even thinking twice about structural integrity of the frame.
    The bike has been pounded and has performed flawlessly over the last 6+ months
    Too anyone who is reading this thread and are having second thoughts about buying one of these frames dont be afraid.
    I have 25 years of racing and riding experience some of it at a top level over the years.
    I have ridden and raced many a bike over the years and these frames are the real deal for what they are.
    Cheers!
    Thanks for the reaffirmation on the IP-056 frame. I've had my IP-057 over a year now, same frame with the newer 12x142 drop outs, and it also has been flawless for over a year now. Held up to anything the single track trails in my area have to throw at it. I don't dial back anything just because I am on a Chinese Carbon frame. The frame is awesome! Got a great price on it from peter@xmiplay.cn and also custom paint. Could not imagine going back to a big brand frame, my Chiner rocks!

  56. #7856
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    Cable routing

    Hi,

    I'm building my first bike and wonder about my left lever to front brake routing.

    Can I go safe with this kind of bending ? I went to the shortest path from left lever to the zip tie and avoided to wrap around the head tube.

    Any advice ?

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20140809_205451-custom-.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20140809_205620-custom-.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20140809_205643-custom-.jpg  


  57. #7857
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Masure View Post
    Hi,

    I'm building my first bike and wonder about my left lever to front brake routing.

    Can I go safe with this kind of bending ? I went to the shortest path from left lever to the zip tie and avoided to wrap around the head tube.

    Any advice ?

    Thanks
    When you turn the handlebar to the right does it pull the brake? It looks like the housing is too short.

  58. #7858
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    Get the front cable to come center with the head tube. Another thing is don't clamp your frame on the top tube.

  59. #7859
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  60. #7860
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    So want to try a new carbon frame. Right now I have QR on my hubs (just built this wheelset), GXP XX1 crank, 27.2mm carbon seat post, and a cut down rock shox reba fork for my Xcaliber 2013.

    If I could find a frame where I can just transfer my parts over I'm sold. Other wise I'm pretty much starting all over which I don't want to do.

  61. #7861
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    I don't know of any Chiners that take a 27.2, all are 31.6 these days, so budget for a new post. They are only about $45 so it should not be a deal breaker. You should be able to find a frame that will accept your QR hubs, fork, and BB. Just talk to one of the vendors like peter@xmiplay.com. Or if you know the specifics of your current frame, just match up the head tube length, BB, and drop outs to what you have.

  62. #7862
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    Can someone point in the direction of how to figure out if a particular frame would make for a good trail bike? I currently have a cross country bike and am looking for something different.

  63. #7863
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    Hi
    I have been looking at the IP057 but I miss an extra internal cable routing for a dropper. But it seems like it is not possible. Is there any similar frames for XC race that has this ??

  64. #7864
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    When you turn the handlebar to the right does it pull the brake? It looks like the housing is too short.
    I can turn the handlebar full without pulling the housing.

    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    Get the front cable to come center with the head tube. Another thing is don't clamp your frame on the top tube.
    According to you, I have to get the housing long enough to turn in front of the head tube ? If I do so, I have to U Turn to get behind the fork arm where the caliper sits.

    Thanks for the advice about clamping.

  65. #7865
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    Double post...

  66. #7866
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    Quote Originally Posted by Masure View Post
    I can turn the handlebar full without pulling the housing.



    According to you, I have to get the housing long enough to turn in front of the head tube ? If I do so, I have to U Turn to get behind the fork arm where the caliper sits.

    Thanks for the advice about clamping.
    More specifically, you need to have enough brake line and cable to turn the bars 180deg in case you have a crash. You don't want to do damage to the lines while you are miles from anywhere and you put the bike on the ground. Better a little long than too short.

  67. #7867
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    I don't know of any Chiners that take a 27.2, all are 31.6 these days, so budget for a new post. They are only about $45 so it should not be a deal breaker. You should be able to find a frame that will accept your QR hubs, fork, and BB. Just talk to one of the vendors like peter@xmiplay.com. Or if you know the specifics of your current frame, just match up the head tube length, BB, and drop outs to what you have.
    If you aren't keen to get a new post you can use a seatpost shim like one from crane creek (Wiggle | Cane Creek Seat Post Shim | Seat Posts), i've done this for my frame and had no issues so far and also cheaper than a new post you just need to match the sizes of your seatpost and the frame

  68. #7868
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by DanTails View Post
    If you aren't keen to get a new post you can use a seatpost shim like one from crane creek (Wiggle | Cane Creek Seat Post Shim | Seat Posts), i've done this for my frame and had no issues so far and also cheaper than a new post you just need to match the sizes of your seatpost and the frame
    and I advice to use two shims - as they are short, only 100mm length.
    so, you can cut the top of one shim, put inside and put the second over the first.
    It would be safer for the frame.

  69. #7869
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    I am still building my bike with the flyxii FR-217 frame and about to drill the cable stop for the rear derailleur housing.

    I read all the replies about the cable stop drilling but I didn't find how people prevent the liner from getting lost in the frame after the drill operation. If I drill with the liner still set set in, the liner will be cut and its end lost in the frame.

    What are the techniques to prevent this or to get the end easily ?

    Regards

  70. #7870
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    Why are you drilling your new carbon frame?

  71. #7871
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik J View Post
    Hi
    I have been looking at the IP057 but I miss an extra internal cable routing for a dropper. But it seems like it is not possible. Is there any similar frames for XC race that has this ??
    No input for this one ??

  72. #7872
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik J View Post
    Hi
    I have been looking at the IP057 but I miss an extra internal cable routing for a dropper. But it seems like it is not possible. Is there any similar frames for XC race that has this ??
    It seems to be possible on an IP-256 if you ride 1x by using the opening meant for the FD cable
    Dropper seat post on a IP-256SL with internal cabling?

    But the opening has to be drilled to 4.5 mm....

  73. #7873
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Why are you drilling your new carbon frame?
    I'd like to have full length housing to prevent any shifting issues. The frame has cable stops which prevent me to run the full housing in the frame.

  74. #7874
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjaakoo View Post
    It seems to be possible on an IP-256 if you ride 1x by using the opening meant for the FD cable
    Dropper seat post on a IP-256SL with internal cabling?

    But the opening has to be drilled to 4.5 mm....
    Thanks for the answer. But I am going to ride with 2x10 speed so it wount help me with the IP-256 frame.

  75. #7875
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik J View Post
    Thanks for the answer. But I am going to ride with 2x10 speed so it wount help me with the IP-256 frame.
    Pretty sure none of the vendors have created a frame for a dropper. These are meant as XC frames which the majority of the time doesn't need a dropper.
    Just go 1x - put what you have into a gear calc...10-42 or 11-42 probably covers it.

  76. #7876
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Pretty sure none of the vendors have created a frame for a dropper. These are meant as XC frames which the majority of the time doesn't need a dropper.
    Just go 1x - put what you have into a gear calc...10-42 or 11-42 probably covers it.
    Miracle drilled a frame for a dropper a while back. Sometime in 2012 I think.

    Ask them. They will drill it and run a liner. Might be 60 day lead time.

    P.S. Vincenzo Nibali ran a dropper in the TDF.

  77. #7877
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    I do not think you can do that.
    The internal tube that the cable runs in is just big enough to run your cable through not the cable and the housing I believe.

    I would run it as it is and see if you actually have shifting problems first brfore you go and start drilling because once you drill there is no turning back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Masure View Post
    I'd like to have full length housing to prevent any shifting issues. The frame has cable stops which prevent me to run the full housing in the frame.

  78. #7878
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Masure View Post
    I am still building my bike with the flyxii FR-217 frame and about to drill the cable stop for the rear derailleur housing.

    I read all the replies about the cable stop drilling but I didn't find how people prevent the liner from getting lost in the frame after the drill operation. If I drill with the liner still set set in, the liner will be cut and its end lost in the frame.

    What are the techniques to prevent this or to get the end easily ?

    Regards
    Don't do this unless you seriously know what you are about to do, have all of the tools that a motorcycle shop may have ( bike shop tools are not enough) and have a plan.
    If you are asking this question, then you need a better plan.

  79. #7879
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    Thanks for your replies. Maybe I thought wrong. Here is what I planed to do in details.

    I thought the white tube purpose was to pull the shifting cable. I thought there was no other tubing than the white one and that the cable will run naked and badly through the frame.

    My plan was to :
    - insert an iron nail firmly in the white tube
    - pull this tube gently inside the frame
    - drill the frame cable stop to 4.5mm
    - use a thin stick ended with a 3x3 cylindrical magnet to get the white tube back out of the frame
    - attach my 4.5mm housing to the liner
    - pull the housing through the frame

    Maybe I'm missing something, over estimate the shifting cable original guiding problem or under estimate the difficulty to set up full housing.

    More advices welcome

    Thanks !

  80. #7880
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    Quote Originally Posted by Masure View Post
    - use a thin stick ended with a 3x3 cylindrical magnet to get the white tube back out of the frame
    Just shake out old liner and use brake/shifter wire as guide shoving it through frame before. It's more simple as compared to dances with magnets, i guess

  81. #7881
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    The inside of the lower end frames (aka no inner balloon) has wavy carbon texture.

    I cannot imagine how, and have never been able to, get anything out without being eventually getting stuck on something.

  82. #7882
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    Masure, here is how I drilled a 256 frame to get the full hose for the rear derailleur.
    256 build by carbonazza

  83. #7883
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    Thank you for your detailed explanation !

    One thing I notice is don't have any hole in the bottom bracket to see the down tube and the seat stay. I think I'll try to use normal routing and think about full house routing if I have any problems.

    Thank you all for your feedback and advices.

  84. #7884
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    Hi Guys,

    I'm from Germany, so my English is not the best ;-) Last week I tested the Speci Stumpjumper FSR 29 and I quite liked it. I read a lot about the Chinese Carbon Frames in German and English forums the last days and I'm thinking of building my own bike. There is a lot of information and I still don't have a good overview.
    Is there any Chinese Carbon frame similar to the Stumpjumper?

    Thanks in advance

  85. #7885
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    Quote Originally Posted by Masure View Post
    One thing I notice is don't have any hole in the bottom bracket to see the down tube and the seat stay.
    I have bottom bracket tube without holes too, it isn't a problem, just a little more tricky.

  86. #7886
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    Hello, I am looking for a new 29er carbon frame. I am interested in a Hong Fu Bikes FM057 light version. I am thinking in building with a Lefty fork but I am not sure.
    Also I prefer a frame with same geometry of:

    Chinese Carbon 29er-2012_cube_elite_29_super_hpc_250945.jpg
    I thought that in the past there was a replica of Cube frames... but I couldn't find them... Cube Elite is a super fast bike!!!

  87. #7887
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    seat boy has a blog with the geo of most common chinese carbon frames: Bikes and Playgrounds: Chinese Carbon Bike Frames

    if you want much/any more help with your query, it would probably be a good idea to at least post up the particular geometry details of that bike that appeal to you.

  88. #7888
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    Cube Elite Super HPC 29 geometry:
    Chinese Carbon 29er-2013_cube_elite_super_hpc_pro_29_523614_i0.jpg

    I have doubts in size about getting IP057 or IP256 in 15.5 or 17.5... comparing with Cube 17

  89. #7889
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    geometry FLX-FR-216 1:1 Cube
    FLX-FR-216 (matt) - FLYXII

  90. #7890
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    Yes, It is almost the same. I have found a seller in europe near my home! But I have doubts about FR-216 quality... After a reding I think that is no good as others... what do you think ?

    Chinese Carbon 29er-cuadro-216-t17.jpg

  91. #7891
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    Does anyone else think the steering angle on the 29r full suspension frames (particularly -036) looks off.....I think it makes the bikes look a bit odd like the wheels are WAY too close to each other. Anyone else feel this way?

  92. #7892
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    I have an IP-036, rides great, steering does not feel "off", I would suggest not judging a frame based on how it looks. The wheelbase is longer than on the IP-057 but I agree that it can look shorter in pictures. Ride one and you will better understand what this FS Carbon frame is all about.

  93. #7893
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    Almost done with my XMI IP-106 in 18". Here are some pics...just need a seat and its done.

    Also Ive decided I want to build a FS 27.5" instead so Im not even going to be riding this bike, I will be selling it. If people are interested PM me, its a nice 1x10 build with the ZEE group, Reba RLT Dual Air 100mm, Easton wheelset, and AVID BB7's. Bike is 23lbs or so.













    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-20140820_224055.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20140820_223859.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20140820_224021.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20140820_223914.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20140820_225416.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20140820_225327_zps89e487ab.jpg  

    2014 27.5" SC Blur TRa - 2014 IP-106 Chiner 29er - 2005 Fuji Team SL 16.2lbs -

  94. #7894
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    Hi dan tails , i´m thomas from germany. i was very impressed about your bike. i want to build up a bike with 1x10 and your idea with xx1 crank and xt parts is brilliant.
    i have a question: which chain do you use??? also xt? i would be very happy for a short response, thank you

    regards
    thomas

  95. #7895
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyfloyd View Post
    Almost done with my XMI IP-106 in 18". Here are some pics...just need a seat and its done.

    Also Ive decided I want to build a FS 27.5" instead so Im not even going to be riding this bike, I will be selling it. If people are interested PM me, its a nice 1x10 build with the ZEE group, Reba RLT Dual Air 100mm, Easton wheelset, and AVID BB7's. Bike is 23lbs or so.
    I believe you are suppose to list items for sale under the classifieds section and pay $2 before posting it in the threads. You should also put "paid spam" somewhere with a link to your classified ad.
    Killing it with close inspection.

  96. #7896
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    Two flyxii 29er frames here, first one had trouble with the wheel staying straight in the back. I went with another Flyxii with rear thru axle. Its bomber. I am faster on these carbon hardtails than on my 30lb Specialized... uphill anyway.

  97. #7897
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireLikeIYA View Post
    I believe you are suppose to list items for sale under the classifieds section and pay $2 before posting it in the threads. You should also put "paid spam" somewhere with a link to your classified ad.

    Ah, sorry about that. I didnt realize this fact.
    2014 27.5" SC Blur TRa - 2014 IP-106 Chiner 29er - 2005 Fuji Team SL 16.2lbs -

  98. #7898
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    IP-256 first ride report: so far so good!!! Took it on the D2R2 180km ride yesterday as its maiden voyage and it did not disappoint. Climbs great, feels light and lively. Only one ride on it but so far I love it. I haven't weighed it yet but it's light. Stoked for the carbon Jones bar to come out later this summer and shave another 0.5-0.75 pounds off the build.

    Complaints: the 32 tooth ring is the biggest you can get on there with the XX1/X01 drivetrains. For future iterations of this bike there will need to be more clearance for bigger chain rings (at least up to 36 or so) now that 1x setups are so common. I tried to fit a 34 tooth on there with no success. Oh, and the water bottle holders are too close together so the one on the downtube is pushed out like 1.5". Not a huge deal, just bigger chance of losing a bottle.

    XMI Play IP-256, medium
    Derby 35mm wide carbon rims
    Niner RDO carbon fork
    SRAM X0 drivetrain with 32 tooth front ring
    XTR brakes 160/160
    Jones handlebars




  99. #7899
    Formerly of Kent
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    Side entry cages will solve the bottle problem.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Death from Below.

  100. #7900
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    Anyone had any issues with 12x142mm axle, supplied by xmiplay?
    This axle is loose inside my Fulcrum Red Power 29 XL rear hub. Installed wheel have a side play of about 1-2 mm.
    XMCarbonSpeed CS-057 29er custom build
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2293724

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