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  1. #5401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions, I've seen the ESI grips and will try them out sometime, however, I do like locking grips because they don't move around. The ESI grips might be more comfortable and about 140g lighter so I will definitely keep them in mind.

    My stem is an Easton EA90, about 130g I could have purchased a lighter stem but the Easton was a really good price and high quality. It's such a small part that even changing it out wouldn't save much, like you said maybe 30g max.

    The saddle is decently comfortable, I would need to try others to find out if there was something I liked better which is difficult without guessing what would be more comfortable. So I think will be sticking with the WTB for now.

    My setup is tubeless so no gains there.

    About the only thing I'm thinking about changing out are the brakes, the Avid Elixir 7 Carbons are good brakes but others are raving about the Shimano XT brakes but given I'd be spending another $350 to change them out, I'd need to try out the brakes on another bike first before I made the decision to spend the money.
    Looks like you could save nearly 200g going to a carbon seat(comfort?). Change of grips to foam could be 120g. Changing your brakes to formula r1 or avid xx could be a savings of 100g +. 2nd to last big gain would be a high end wheel upgrade. 200-300g there. Last would be your tires. Maybe 100 to 150g. Otherwise, it would the 10g here and there(rotors, titanium bolts)

  2. #5402
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Looks like you could save nearly 200g going to a carbon seat(comfort?). Change of grips to foam could be 120g. Changing your brakes to formula r1 or avid xx could be a savings of 100g +. 2nd to last big gain would be a high end wheel upgrade. 200-300g there. Last would be your tires. Maybe 100 to 150g. Otherwise, it would the 10g here and there(rotors, titanium bolts)
    Wheels are already high end DT Swiss XR Spline with thru axles, about 1500g for the set, I would need to go with carbon wheels if I wanted something lighter and stronger.

  3. #5403
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    Thanks for the reply.... So what frame are these dropouts for?
    looks like I'll be needing a new one soon.

  4. #5404
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    Quote Originally Posted by epicMCD View Post
    Thanks for the reply.... So what frame are these dropouts for?
    looks like I'll be needing a new one soon.
    If you go to Xiamen Iplay Sporting Goods Co.,Ltd. you will see the IP-106 has interchangeable drop-outs.

  5. #5405
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    If you go to Xiamen Iplay Sporting Goods Co.,Ltd. you will see the IP-106 has interchangeable drop-outs.
    The new IP-057 comes with them as well. Mine only came with the drop-outs for 142 though, so if you want 135qr, it looks like you need to order those extra.

  6. #5406
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    peter

    Maybe it's just me but I can't find the specs/geo on the IP-057 or IP-106. Can you post the specs/geo or link? What are the prices including shipping to the US?

    Thanks

  7. #5407
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    ltk023 owners, or anyone for that matter. If running 1x10 xtr rear der, I want to go with the long cage (sgs) right? Or does it not matter? I like the looks of a med cage, but i've been told by some mechanic to go with long cage always.

  8. #5408
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    ltk023 owners, or anyone for that matter. If running 1x10 xtr rear der, I want to go with the long cage (sgs) right? Or does it not matter? I like the looks of a med cage, but i've been told by some mechanic to go with long cage always.
    Short cage. Plus with a short cage you get a more compact derailleur, giving you better clearance. I also think the spring tension is better on a short cage. Better yet, get the clutch derailleur at that point.

    I think you're getting bad advise on the long cage, unless you plan to switch from a 1x down the road. I can't say enough good things about the crispness I get with my short cage setup. Pete

  9. #5409
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcortez371 View Post
    peter

    Maybe it's just me but I can't find the specs/geo on the IP-057 or IP-106. Can you post the specs/geo or link? What are the prices including shipping to the US?

    Thanks
    Could you PM me or contact me directly via email? I will send you geometries via email.

    Email address: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520

  10. #5410
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterk123 View Post
    Short cage. Plus with a short cage you get a more compact derailleur, giving you better clearance. I also think the spring tension is better on a short cage. Better yet, get the clutch derailleur at that point.

    I think you're getting bad advise on the long cage, unless you plan to switch from a 1x down the road. I can't say enough good things about the crispness I get with my short cage setup. Pete
    I found this:
    The easy capacity formula is to add your big ring & cog sizes, then subtract your small ring and cog sizes. It looks like this:

    cap req'd (T) = (BIG ring - small ring) + (BIG cog - small cog)

    ...so for a typical 44-32-22 mountain crank & 11-34 cassette...

    T = (44T - 22T) + (34T - 11T)
    .. = (22T) + (23T)
    .. = 45T

    Using this simple forumla, you would need a derailleur with a 45T rated capacity to absorb all the possible extra links of a typical 27-speed drivetrain.

    Manufacturer stated derailleur capacities are as follows:
    Shimano long = 45T; medium = 33T
    SRAM long = 43T; medium = 37T; short = 30T

  11. #5411
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    This is really a general drivetrain question and is not 29er specific, but that formula isn't much good if you are running a 1x setup. Unless you just use zero for the difference in the front chain rings but it seems like a short cage derailleur should work.

    Makes me wonder is my XX1 rear derailleur would be considered short or medium cage.

  12. #5412
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    This is really a general drivetrain question and is not 29er specific, but that formula isn't much good if you are running a 1x setup. Unless you just use zero for the difference in the front chain rings but it seems like a short cage derailleur should work.

    Makes me wonder is my XX1 rear derailleur would be considered short or medium cage.
    Which is exactly why the answer to this question is a sticky in that forum When to use a Long Cage vs Short Cage Derailleur?

  13. #5413
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    This is really a general drivetrain question and is not 29er specific, but that formula isn't much good if you are running a 1x setup. Unless you just use zero for the difference in the front chain rings but it seems like a short cage derailleur should work.

    Makes me wonder is my XX1 rear derailleur would be considered short or medium cage.
    Exactly, zero is the # you use for the front. Formula still applies. But it should be common sense that if your running a 1x a short cage will suffice. There isn't going to be a lot of slack to take up

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  14. #5414
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    Finally completed. Very happy with how it rides. My old hardtail feels like crap after riding this one.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20130706_165222.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20130706_165233.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20130706_165243.jpg  


  15. #5415
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    lol @ "Crap"..what did you have before ?

    For the decals , you used a 3rd party website for both of them right ? Were they exactly how you wanted them ?

    BTW I notice some smudges and marks on these Matte finishes. Are those fingerprints or is the finish prone to imperfections ?

  16. #5416
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    Quote Originally Posted by manmythlegend View Post
    lol @ "Crap"..what did you have before ?

    For the decals , you used a 3rd party website for both of them right ? Were they exactly how you wanted them ?

    BTW I notice some smudges and marks on these Matte finishes. Are those fingerprints or is the finish prone to imperfections ?

    The smudges you see are from me, not imperfections. The frame is free of any blemishes.

    The decals were ordered online and they were exactly as ordered. Actually, the final product was nicer.

    My other hardtail is a gravity 4points. Other than the 10lb weight difference, the ride of new bike is smoother. The carbon definately beats me up less than the aluminum. The other biggies are are the fork and the brakes. The SID compared to the Recon is not even close. It took a bit to get it figured out but that is half the fun when building up a bike. The brakes I had before were Elixer3, now i have XT. The XT is truly awesome. Not even close. Oh, I also went from x7 to xo triggers. The xo combined with the shortcage is so crisp. This bike is just a joy when you are climbing. I can't even imagine what the sub 20lb bikes must feel like.

  17. #5417
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    IP-106 geo 15.5"

    Chinese Carbon 29er-ip-056-15.5-1-.jpg

    This looks interesting, the toptube lenght is almost 20mm greater than the other offerings at this size. Sent over from Peter at xmiplay. He stated that the geo's are similiar from IP056,IP057 and IP-106. The headtube is even the correct length for a tapered fork.
    Might be a winner if this is correct. For me anyway.

    Anyone have one??

  18. #5418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave862 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IP-056-15.5 (1).jpg 
Views:	1288 
Size:	86.8 KB 
ID:	814152

    This looks interesting, the toptube lenght is almost 20mm greater than the other offerings at this size. Sent over from Peter at xmiplay. He stated that the geo's are similiar from IP056,IP057 and IP-106. The headtube is even the correct length for a tapered fork.
    Might be a winner if this is correct. For me anyway.

    Anyone have one??
    That is geometry for IP-056 in 15.5'', not IP-106. IP-106 frame geomrties are different from IP-056 and IP-057. What I said was IP-056 geometry similar to IP-057, just QR and 142 axle dropout difference.

  19. #5419
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    Received mine today. 2 week turnaround. Got it custom painted so that was 7 days and 7 days for shipping. Within 48 hours of Peters original quote.

    Pics upcoming but not done building. Im stumped.
    The holes for internal cabling are actually really large. Im using BB7s not hydraulics and using ferrules the cable to gets sucked into the chamber. Also tried to run the housing all the way through. That didnt work as my brake pull changes from super tight to falling out loose with handlebar turns. I tried wedging the ferrule with a rubber wrap and that screams temporary as it started pushing through anyway.

    Are there such things as extra large or thick ferrules ?

    May have to try to triple stack or wedge them somehow. I havent finished rear derailleur but I anticipate the same issue with tension pulling the cable inside the frame.
    Any ideas ?

    FYI it appears the IP-056 model is incompatible with NStop chain guide. The bottom of the seat tube is too thick and curves in and the N-Stop cant reach.

  20. #5420
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    You could put a couple of layers of heatshrink, about 50mm long, over the cable to build up the diameter and fill the hole up.

  21. #5421
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    Quote Originally Posted by manmythlegend View Post
    Received mine today. 2 week turnaround. Got it custom painted so that was 7 days and 7 days for shipping. Within 48 hours of Peters original quote.

    Pics upcoming but not done building. Im stumped.
    The holes for internal cabling are actually really large. Im using BB7s not hydraulics and using ferrules the cable to gets sucked into the chamber. Also tried to run the housing all the way through. That didnt work as my brake pull changes from super tight to falling out loose with handlebar turns. I tried wedging the ferrule with a rubber wrap and that screams temporary as it started pushing through anyway.

    Are there such things as extra large or thick ferrules ?

    May have to try to triple stack or wedge them somehow. I havent finished rear derailleur but I anticipate the same issue with tension pulling the cable inside the frame.
    Any ideas ?

    FYI it appears the IP-056 model is incompatible with NStop chain guide. The bottom of the seat tube is too thick and curves in and the N-Stop cant reach.
    The brake line side is sized to run a hydraulic line so it doesn't surprise me that you would have a problem trying to run bare cables with a ferrule. I think anyone that has cable brakes has run full housings and it worked fine for them, have you tried running the cable externally on the frame just to determine if there isn't another problem? Are your cable housings stiff enough so they aren't kinking or twisting inside the frame? I think some have used Jagwire cables with good results. If you have a full housing from the lever to the brake caliper it just doesn't make sense that it would not be consistent. I've only seen different sized ferrules for shifter cables but they would still be too small.

    You may also want to consider just going with hydraulic brakes and avoid the cable issues you are having on that side.

    You should not have the same problem with the derailleur cables, those holes are sized for cut housings and ferrules, if not there was a mistake made with your frame.

    Also, only about 2mm of my ferrule stick out of the holes for my derailleur cable, most of the ferrule sits inside the hole, don't be mistaken that the ferrule is slipping inside the frame, it's designed so only a small part of the ferrule shows outside the hole.

  22. #5422
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    Quote Originally Posted by manmythlegend View Post
    FYI it appears the IP-056 model is incompatible with NStop chain guide. The bottom of the seat tube is too thick and curves in and the N-Stop cant reach.
    i use the K-edge dirt 2 on mine, works a treat.
    http://t.co/jynP4OlvLe

  23. #5423
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    [QUOTE=peterque;10518030]That is geometry for IP-056 in 15.5'', not IP-106. IP-106 frame geomrties are different from IP-056 and IP-057.QUOTE]

    Thanks for the verification.
    From the images recently sent to me, the frames are different and the IP-106 has a shorter toptube.

    I cant tell , but does the dropouts of the 135mm version have steel/ alu
    or are they carbon.
    I liked the idea of the idea of the IP106 having metal/metal at the frame and hub.

  24. #5424
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    Build Report

    I'm finally ready to post a build report. I took my sweet time to do this build. This thread has been very helpful in providing good information about these "foreign" frames. Thanks to everyone who has posted their experiences on this thread. Here's my contribution, such as it is.

    As mentioned previously, I purchased a frame and fork from a_baygoods through ebay. I think this is the FR-213, but it wasn't advertised as such. Shipping was quick, the frame and fork were well packed, and there was no damage to the box.

    Other than a carbon seatpost that I got from a different seller, new shift cables (Jagwire Mtn Pro), and the Wheels Mfg adapters for the cranks), all of the parts are take off from my FS, which is now retired. Here are the basic specs:

    FR-213 UD Gloss Large BB30 with included Flyxii headset
    X-9 9 speed
    FSA Afterburner 22-34-44 9 speed (mounted using Wheels Mfg derlin spacers)
    Avid Juicy 7
    Bontrager Race Lite
    Conti Mountain King 2.4 (with tubes)
    Selle Italia Flight Trans Am
    FSA stem (alum, 110mm +-6 degrees)
    Bars and grips: unknown aluminum
    Hylix Carbon Seatpost (400mm 5mm offset)

    23.4 lbs using my bathroom scale.

    The frame and fork look great. There are no apparent defects in the manufacturing of the frame or in the UD Gloss finish. With my old parts cleaned up this thing really does look fantastic!

    Chinese Carbon 29er-photo-2-.jpg

    View from the front...
    Chinese Carbon 29er-photo-3-.jpg

    I didn't have any serious problems with the build. I'll just mention a couple of things that were minor but that others might have run into. First, I tried to install the BB30 bearings using a home made headset press (bolt and washers) along with the bushings from a park BBT-BB30.3 installation tool. For all I tried, I could not get those bearings to go in straight. So I just took that part of it to the LBS and had them do it. It wasn't a big deal, but I was very frustrated that I wasn't able to do everything myself. I may just buy a proper installation tool and ditch the bolt and washers for future service, but since I didn't have one I just took it to the shop. I also had the shop cut the steerer while it was in. I had them cut it high so I could mess around with spacers and find a position that suits me. Right now I have 20mm below with the stem flipped down. That feels pretty good. I could flip the stem up and loose the 20mm of spacers and keep the bars in about the same place. But to me it looks better to have the stem facing down, even with the spacers. What do you think? Any way, moving along.

    The only other issue I ran into was the installation of the ferrule on the rear chainstay for rear shifting. The stop for that ferrule was very tight. I tried everything I could think of to push it in so that it would get a good seat. The best I could do was to only get it in about half way. It looked like this. . .

    Chinese Carbon 29er-photo-11-.jpg

    That's not as far as it should go. But it is as far as I could get it to go, so I figured I'd run it like that and see what happened. What happened was I had good shifting for the first two rides, and then poor shifting the second and third rides. I thought, "Oh no, I am going have all those shifting problems that I've read about on this thread." As I looked into the shifting I could see that the tension from shifting had caused the ferrule to seat further into the frame. Now it is where it should be. After another adjustment to the cable tension I've had 4 or 5 rides with the shifting the way it should be. What a relief! Shifting works well. There is no play in the cable and I can't see how the internal routing would cause a problem with the shifting. Plus the internal routing looks clean. The only thing that has me concerned now is whether I will be able to get that ferrule out to replace it when its time to run new cables in a couple of years. I'm not going to worry about that now. It's time to enjoy the ride!

    The geometry on this frame suits me well. I find it to be stable and comfortable. It's shorter than my FS, so it handles turns nicely. I had kind of bought into the marketing hype of G2 and special Niner geometries, and was concerned how the front end of this would feel. Turns out that it feels great. It handles very well.

    I wonder now why I ever needed the full suspension. The rigid front and rear work very well on my trails. Sure, there is occasionally some rough stuff that I have to slow down to descend over, but I find that the inconvenience of loosing my ability to bomb over stuff is far outweighed by the joy to be found in being able to go up hill will gusto. Plus, I am enjoying the lightness of the set up and I dig the purity of keeping it simple without front and rear suspensions.

    Here are a few more pics. Enjoy!

    Chinese Carbon 29er-photo-6-.jpg

    Chinese Carbon 29er-photo-7-.jpg

    Chinese Carbon 29er-photo-4-.jpg

  25. #5425
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    Looks good. Enjoy!

  26. #5426
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    [QUOTE=Dave862;10521205]
    Quote Originally Posted by peterque View Post
    That is geometry for IP-056 in 15.5'', not IP-106. IP-106 frame geomrties are different from IP-056 and IP-057.QUOTE]
    From the images recently sent to me, the frames are different and the IP-106 has a shorter toptube.
    Do any of you guys have the geometries or top tube lengths for the 19" and 20".

    Trying to find one of these frames with a longer top tube for it's seat tube length.
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  27. #5427
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    [QUOTE=PHeller;10521924]
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave862 View Post

    Do any of you guys have the geometries or top tube lengths for the 19" and 20".

    Trying to find one of these frames with a longer top tube for it's seat tube length.
    The 19" IP-057 has an effective TT of 620mm.

  28. #5428
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    [QUOTE=PHeller;10521924]
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave862 View Post

    Do any of you guys have the geometries or top tube lengths for the 19" and 20".

    Trying to find one of these frames with a longer top tube for it's seat tube length.
    Chinese Carbon 29er - Page 87

    I put together a spreadsheet and compared it to my existing bike and bikes I could test ride.

    I am 6'1.75" with more leg than torso. I went with the Flyxii 20".

  29. #5429
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    [QUOTE=PHeller;10521924]
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave862 View Post

    Do any of you guys have the geometries or top tube lengths for the 19" and 20".

    Trying to find one of these frames with a longer top tube for it's seat tube length.
    Below is another chart of 19" geometry from bikes that I looked at, the IP-57, and a few bikes that I own for comparison.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-bike_geom.jpg  


  30. #5430
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er



    Finished the build, unfortunately my tibia is still more titanium than bone, so my test rides are limited to going around the block.
    Everything went together pretty smoothly, the only defect in the frame was just a bit of resin I had to Dremell out of the hole where the rear derraileur cable goes into the frame so the ferrule would slip in.
    The only other frame related issue is that I couldn't get the bars quite as low as I'd like without the controls hitting the frame when the bars are turned. This is due to the design of the frame where the top tub doesn't drop very fast as you go back from the head tube. Wouldn't be a problem if I didn't crash, but I do that on occasion Still managed about a one inch drop, though I was looking for about two (I have really long arms). This is with a 20mm spacer over the 10 mm headset top cap, for a total of 30mm which is the max recommended for my fork, and the stem set up with I think a 7 degree rise.
    Setting up the XX1 was pretty straightforward. The only issue I'm having is some pretty good growling from the chain in the hardest four our five gears under power. It might be chainline related, and I haven't check the derailleur hanger alignment (looks like it could be off a tad). Could just be it needs a little dirt to take the hard edge off all those new teeth on the cassette and chainring.
    The build:
    19" IP-057, UD Matte, BB30
    Rockshox SID World Cup XX 15mm axle
    SRAM XX1 group
    XTR brakes, 160mm rotors
    Roval Control Carbon wheelset
    Schwalbe Racing Ralph Evo 2.25's
    Crank Brothers Eggbeater 11 pedals
    Enve seatpost and bars
    Thompson seatpost clamp
    Specialized phenom pro saddle
    Truvativ stylo 40 100mm stem
    ESI Chunky grips
    A little over 19.5lbs on the electronic bathroom scale.

  31. #5431
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    Quote Originally Posted by jp4 View Post

    Finished the build, unfortunately my tibia is still more titanium than bone, so my test rides are limited to going around the block.
    Everything went together pretty smoothly, the only defect in the frame was just a bit of resin I had to Dremell out of the hole where the rear derraileur cable goes into the frame so the ferrule would slip in.
    The only other frame related issue is that I couldn't get the bars quite as low as I'd like without the controls hitting the frame when the bars are turned. This is due to the design of the frame where the top tub doesn't drop very fast as you go back from the head tube. Wouldn't be a problem if I didn't crash, but I do that on occasion Still managed about a one inch drop, though I was looking for about two (I have really long arms). This is with a 20mm spacer over the 10 mm headset top cap, for a total of 30mm which is the max recommended for my fork, and the stem set up with I think a 7 degree rise.
    Setting up the XX1 was pretty straightforward. The only issue I'm having is some pretty good growling from the chain in the hardest four our five gears under power. It might be chainline related, and I haven't check the derailleur hanger alignment (looks like it could be off a tad). Could just be it needs a little dirt to take the hard edge off all those new teeth on the cassette and chainring.
    The build:
    19" IP-057, UD Matte, BB30
    Rockshox SID World Cup XX 15mm axle
    SRAM XX1 group
    XTR brakes, 160mm rotors
    Roval Control Carbon wheelset
    Schwalbe Racing Ralph Evo 2.25's
    Crank Brothers Eggbeater 11 pedals
    Enve seatpost and bars
    Thompson seatpost clamp
    Specialized phenom pro saddle
    Truvativ stylo 40 100mm stem
    ESI Chunky grips
    A little over 19.5lbs on the electronic bathroom scale.
    First, I'd like to congratulate on your build, looks really good.
    As for the controls hitting the frame when you turn the bars around, you are the first person to mention you had a problem, guess the stem and bar height you chose is not 100% compatible with the frame design. Unlike some other frames, the IP-056/57 has an arched top tube to provide some additional rigidity which also allows the top to to be a smaller x-section. I like riser bars so I didn't run into your problem. I would not expect a frame designer to be able to accommodate all permutations of stem height, bar height, and control configurations. Also, your controls appear to be angled downward rather than more of a 45 deg angle, that certainly adds to your problem, if your worried about breaking something you might want to tilt them up a bit to help with clearance. Finally, those XTR levers are pretty big, also stealing away clearance.

    I just went out and checked my top tube to lever clearance and it's about 3/4", so my setup is much different than yours.

    My XX1 setup is running smooth, chain line looks good. Did you add spacers on the drive side of the BB? One of the first things I did when installing the derailleur was use an alignment tool to square up the derailleur to the frame. Given the variation in the frame, hanger, wheel, cassette, and derailleur itself I would not expect everything to align perfectly when first assembled.

    Good luck with getting healed up and back on the trail, you will be impressed with how well your bike rides and how smooth it feels.

  32. #5432
    jp4
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    [QUOTE=Epic_Dude;10522646]
    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post

    Below is another chart of 19" geometry from bikes that I looked at, the IP-57, and a few bikes that I own for comparison.
    Looks like the IP-057 is almost identical geometry to the Scott Scale. Is that a bike you own? If so, how would you compare the ride?

  33. #5433
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    Yep, the IP-057 is closest to a Scott Scale. One thing I noticed when creating my chart is there are only slight differences in the various models I selected. I've not owned but have ridden a Scott Scale, Specialized Carve, and a top of the line Specialized Epic. They all rode well in my opinion, in many ways not that much different from my IP-057. But then again these are all XC bikes. I've also ridden a Trek Superfly but didn't care for it, felt too much like my 26er. The other two bikes I currently own are at the bottom of the chart.

    One thing to note, the BB height on the Specialized Epics is spec'd with the bike unloaded, when the rear suspension activates, the BB height is about the same or lower than the HT bikes I have listed.

  34. #5434
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    Sounds as though I'll still need a 21". I currently ride a KHS Tuscon 19" and the ETT on that is 610 and just a hair too short.
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  35. #5435
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Just did a little longer ride and the drivetrain noise/vibration disappeared after a few miles. I think it was just the chain, cassette, chaining getting to know each other a little bit. No extra spacers on the crank installation. Chain line is pretty close to the middle, and the chain clears the rear seatstay by a comfortable margin in the 10 tooth cog.

    Epic, those XTR levers are pretty long, but what actually hits is the shifter. It's mounted on the Matchmaker mount of the remote fork lockout, so I think it hangs a bit lower than if it were mounted on it's own clamp. As far as the lever angles, I run them pretty steep so they are easy to use standing up. I built this mostly for short track racing and for the shorter xc races, so there's a lot of standing up and hammering. There is very little technical descending in these races, so I'm going for low bar height for power and better position for climbing. I have long monkey arms, so I was trying to go a bit lower, but I'm pretty happy with where they are now. If I really want to get it lower, I'll just zip tie a split piece of clear plastic hose on the top tube and it should be pretty good.
    Shortening the hydraulic lines turned out to be a non-event and was done in less than an hour for both ends. I did follow someone's tip here and crack the bleed valve on the reservoir as I squeezed the brake handle following reassembly, and got a small puff of air out of each one. This was my first time setting up Shimano brakes after dealing with mostly Avids, and it was super easy.
    Overall really impressed with the bike. It seems crazy that someone would pay $1-2k for a hardtail frame when they can get one of these.

  36. #5436
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Anyone using a non tapered fork in tapered headset?
    I've attached a pic of the headset (Fsa no. 42 according to PeterQ).
    He included 'an adapter' which was a crown race that fit separate from the box.
    My issue is I can't get the headset to fit properly. It's either too loose or too tight.
    The bottom right hand piece I did not use, I assumed this was the race for tapered.
    I disassembled and thought maybe that piece went somewhere. But nothing seemed right.
    Any thoughts?


    Also as a follow up, I went full housing on brakes and resized that until there was minimal chance for any play. I'll test it out on a ride tomorrow if I get the above sorted.

  37. #5437
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    yeah, I am...

    i used a standard headset (neco supplied) and one of these Hope Tapered 1.5" to 1 1/8" Reducer Crown Wiggle | Hope 1.5" Headset Reducer Crown Converter | Headsets

    iirc, I cut a slot into it first to get it over my FOX steerer

  38. #5438
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    every xc bike ive ever owned the controls hit the top tube. Its never been a problem bar once in a crash i smashed my juicy ultimate lever body in two. whether that was impact with the other rider or it hitting the frame I don't know, but the frame was fine.

    -18degree 90mm - wide flat bars Chinese Carbon 29er

  39. #5439
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    This is how I'm stacking things.



    Took it to LBS they thought the starnut was crooked. So I went home removed it and installed the compression one. Tried again.

    Same result. It goes from super tight to shaky and loose in a half a turn. If I just put hand pressure it's fine.
    That piece I left out doesn't seem to fit anywhere.


    I'm really annoyed at this point. Can someone point out via Amazon or U.S based site exactly what type of Headset I would need.
    I need to figure out if it's the headset or the head tube.

  40. #5440
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er



    BTW during this issue took a picture of the inside. IP-056 definitely = FM056.

  41. #5441
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    A request of those with a 19" -57 or -56, how long are your brake lines?
    Thanks

  42. #5442
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    A request of those with a 19" -57 or -56, how long are your brake lines?
    Thanks
    On my Elixir brakes, the front hydraulic line is 850mm, the rear is about 1450mm after I cut it down from the original 1600mm length. Why do you ask?

  43. #5443
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    Quote Originally Posted by manmythlegend View Post
    This is how I'm stacking things.

    Took it to LBS they thought the starnut was crooked. So I went home removed it and installed the compression one. Tried again.

    Same result. It goes from super tight to shaky and loose in a half a turn. If I just put hand pressure it's fine.
    That piece I left out doesn't seem to fit anywhere.


    I'm really annoyed at this point. Can someone point out via Amazon or U.S based site exactly what type of Headset I would need.
    I need to figure out if it's the headset or the head tube.
    Are you using carbon spacers? One friend of mine had a problem with the spacers not cut flat, this caused the headset to tighten/loosen when the bars were turned.

  44. #5444
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    Brakes are one of the last items I need. Looking on ebay. Thanks.

  45. #5445
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Brakes are one of the last items I need. Looking on ebay. Thanks.
    If I had it to do again, I would chose Shimano XT brakes with Icetech rotors, 180mm fr/160 rr, you would also need the 180mm spacer for mounting the front caliper.

  46. #5446
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    If I had it to do again, I would chose Shimano XT brakes with Icetech rotors, 180mm fr/160 rr, you would also need the 180mm spacer for mounting the front caliper.
    Do you have a link to the spacer you're referring to? I'm about to upgrade to xtr's on mine.

  47. #5447
    mr2
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    I'm going to get one of these frames. I'm thinking of getting the FR211 from Flyxii via aliexpress.com for $345. Any issues with that model, seller,price or website I should be worried about?

  48. #5448
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    I went with eBay for $360 from flyxii. All smiles here...
    South Central PA

  49. #5449
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by manmythlegend View Post
    This is how I'm stacking things.

    Took it to LBS they thought the starnut was crooked. So I went home removed it and installed the compression one. Tried again.

    Same result. It goes from super tight to shaky and loose in a half a turn. If I just put hand pressure it's fine.
    That piece I left out doesn't seem to fit anywhere.
    .
    Is that the Neco headset? That piece missing should go after the top bearing and act as a wedge to fill the gap between steerer and bearing.

    What goes from super tight to shaky loose? What part causes the loosening after a half turn? The stem cap bolt?

  50. #5450
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    Hi

    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    Is that the Neco headset? That piece missing should go after the top bearing and act as a wedge to fill the gap between steerer and bearing.
    no that's the red bit he has in the correct place?

    the bit not fitted looks like its the collar for a 1-1/4 fork crown (not required in his case)

    It doesn't look like my neco hs

    I don't really understand your problem though, Can you explain better? You need to turn the top nut so its not super tight or super shakey, and then tighten up your stem bolts. seems obvious but.....

    ....whats that black ring between the red ring and the top cap? i don't recognise it

  51. #5451
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Epic- Swapped out the spacers. Same thing.

    The headset is supposed to be FSA no42.
    Im about to Gorilla Glue the damn thing and try and start a "Fixie Stem" trend.

    Can anyone give me some other headsets to try?

  52. #5452
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    are the bearings slopping about in the headtube?

    edit >>> I used Loctite 641 Retainer - Henkel when fitting mine as they were a little loose.

  53. #5453
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    This is the headset I used, Check the bearing sizes against yours.

    Neco Headset 1-1/8'' to 1-1/2'' for Mountain/ Road bikes headsetsheadset barings
    15 - 8HxOD52x45 x45
    6B - 7HxOD41.8x45x45

  54. #5454
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by epicMCD View Post
    Hi

    ....whats that black ring between the red ring and the top cap? i don't recognise it
    That is the problem. That piece isn't needed and the piece above it should be resting/driving the red piece into the bearing.

    If it loosens when turning the handlebars it means there is nothing putting pressure in the red wedge.

  55. #5455
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    That is the problem. That piece isn't needed and the piece above it should be resting/driving the red piece into the bearing.

    If it loosens when turning the handlebars it means there is nothing putting pressure in the red wedge.
    That is a thin rubber seal that actually sits in the top cap. It came as part of the top cap I pulled it out to show it in the picture.

    I am wondering the same now if the red ring is getting any pressure.

    Will either of these work on frame ? No LBS's seem to carry them and I wanna try and have this done by Sunday.
    A google search says "FSA no42 is the C-40 in the second link.

    Amazon.com: FSA Orbit 1.5ZS Zero Stack Internal Bicycle Headset: Sports & Outdoors

    Amazon.com: FSA Orbit C-40 Integrated Tapered Headset: Sports & Outdoors

  56. #5456
    jp4
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by manmythlegend View Post

    Took it to LBS they thought the starnut was crooked. So I went home removed it and installed the compression one. Tried again.

    Same result. It goes from super tight to shaky and loose in a half a turn. If I just put hand pressure it's fine.
    Is your top cap hitting the frame when you tighten it? I had the same symptoms and I needed to add some really thin spacers above the split red ring to keep the cap from hitting the frame.

  57. #5457
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    Quote Originally Posted by jp4 View Post
    Is your top cap hitting the frame when you tighten it? I had the same symptoms and I needed to add some really thin spacers above the split red ring to keep the cap from hitting the frame.
    Will check when Im home. Do you recall the specs on the spacers ?
    Gonna visit home depot see what they have that may assist.

  58. #5458
    jp4
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    They are actually thin shims designed just for that purpose. They're like fractions of a millimeter thick. Your local bike shop should have them. Here you go:http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=21855

  59. #5459
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    mammythelegend - It could be your stem to fork fit is too snug.

    Sometimes, if the stem is a tight fit you have to use a dead blow or rubber mallet right and a wood block at the base to get it tight enough, the top cap will not pull it tight on it's own. Tap it down and keep snugging up the cap screw to check.
    Snug the stem bolt(s) a little, then check alignment with wheel before tightening fully.

    The top cap should only be firm enough to snug up the bearings, the stem bolts are what actually keeps it in place.
    Once the stem bolts are tight the top cap can be backed off and set just tight enough to stay put.

  60. #5460
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Thank you JP and Rooby.

    I swapped stems but still the same. No LBS in the area had the shims. It occurred to me I had a super thin carbon spacer headset spacer and decided to give it a shot. Placed it under dust cap and everything feels fine. The dust cap is obviously a bit open but thus far it leads me to think the red ring pictured wasn't being pushed down enough.
    I'm having one of the LBS' order the shims and see if I can get it right. If not I'll need to buy a new headset. I'll update as it comes along.

    Still can't decide on decals so not posting pics yet. I'm an XL frame and using heavy ass tubes and not really light wheelset but sitting at 24lbs. Can probably be in the 23s if I go tubeless.

  61. #5461
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    Ah, Yes, my headset has a thin silver shim above the red part... incidentally, the neco headset I'm currently using is exactly the same as the planetx / on-one headsets (except they're 1-1/8" 1-1/8")

    Planet X Integrated Headset

    you can see all the bits you should have here..
    neco headset | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

    the shim should have been part of the headset. you can just about see it nestling under the top cap in the planetx photo

  62. #5462
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    I didn't find anywhere in the thread but if I want to get a Cane Creek headset with a IP-057 frame, which one should I get in the 40 or 110 series ?

  63. #5463
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    Very good post !!!

  64. #5464
    jp4
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by epicMCD View Post

    the shim should have been part of the headset. you can just about see it nestling under the top cap in the planetx photo
    I think Mammy has the FSA, not the Neco headset. The FSA headsets apparently don't come with the top cap shims, at least mine did not. Something to think about if you're ordering one of these headsets to go with your frame. My LBS didn't have any of these shims for sale, but they had a box full of them from other headset installations they'd done.

  65. #5465
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    Cane creek doesn't have the specific headset. You'll have to buy a separate top and bottom to build with them. Top 42 and bottom 52(inside diameter)

  66. #5466
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    First real ride report on the IP-057. I'll qualify this by saying my leg is still far from healed, so I couldn't go nearly as fast as I'd like to on the descents. Still, I got out for a 16 mile loop with 1,700' climbing on moderately technical single track, so I have a pretty good feel for the bike and the XX1 drivetrain.
    I guess the best thing I can say is the bike is very neutral and unremarkable, which is a good thing. Even though I haven't ridden a hard tail in several years, I have been mountain biking for over thirty years on a lot of different bikes, so I feel I have a pretty good perspective.
    The most remarkable thing for me is how quiet this bike is. Absolutely no squeaking or creaking, just the light whirring sound of the XX1 drivetrain.
    The next thing that impressed me was the lateral rigidity of the whole package of frame, carbon wheels, and thru axles. The steering is very precise, yet not overly quick. In fact I'd say it's a little slower steering than my Epic Comp, but not by much.
    I thought the lack of rear suspension would feel most noticeable on the descents, but in fact I noticed it most on the climbs. Clearing roots and rocks while seated was a little bumpy, but well muted by the carbon frame. Going downhill was actually pretty smooth with most of the weight over the fork. The rigidity of the bike made changing direction almost telepathic, yet not twitchy.
    The other question I had going into this build was how the gear range of the XX1 would be compared to my normal 26/39 2x10 setup. Overall, I think it will be just fine and will be worth the silence and simplicity. On the chart, the ratios cover about the same range. In reality, I did notice the jump from 36 to 42 was a little bigger gap than I would like, but I think I'll get used to it. I rarely use the 36 on my other bike unless I've bonked or am cramping, and would never use it in a race unless it was a marathon, so I will probably not use the 42 much on this bike either. The biggest compromise with this setup running the stock 32 tooth chaining, was at the top end. Coming back on the road with a strong tailwind, I was spun out at about 33mph. While that's plenty fast for all my recreational riding, and all but the fastest road sections in races, I might use a 34 for flatter xc races.
    Overall I'm really impressed with this frame, everything assembled easily, the new machined drop outs were well aligned, and the finish quality was decent for the price.
    Last edited by jp4; 07-13-2013 at 03:50 PM.

  67. #5467
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    I'm looking for a frame are there good FS Chinese frames I only seen HT frames.
    How would they compare to a Titus carbon rockstar 29

  68. #5468
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    Quote Originally Posted by cloudbuster View Post
    I'm looking for a frame are there good FS Chinese frames I only seen HT frames.
    How would they compare to a Titus carbon rockstar 29
    This thread was also on the main page of the 29er bikes forum...

    Dual Suspension Chinese Carbon 29er
    Death from Below.

  69. #5469
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    Jp4, thanks for posting your ride report, I agree with everything you said about the way the IP-057 rides. If you change out to a 34T XX1 ring I would be curious if there is any clearance issue between the ring and the frame.

  70. #5470
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Epic, it looks like a 34 tooth chaining will fit pretty easily, maybe even a 36 (not that I'd ever need that). I went with the 168Q bb30 175mm cranks and I have quite a bit of clearance. My heels don't come very close to the chainstays even with size 45 shoes. I probably could have gotten away with the narrower crank, but figured I'd error on the wide side, just in case.

  71. #5471
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    Hello thread. I have been looking at a chinese carbon frame from ebay. The FR216 29er with a BSA headset. the 17 inch frame says it weighs 1330g +/- 50g, the headset is an extra 120g. is that fairly decent or should i look for something lighter. I would like to stay under $400. Any suggestions would be amazing. Thanks!
    NorCal High-School XC
    2014 Giant XTC Composite 29er
    2012 Scott Scale Team 29er
    2013 Diamondback Podium 5

  72. #5472
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davidg531 View Post
    Updated pic really like the frame, have about 80 miles on it and feels great. So far so good.
    Attachment 812614
    Hello David, what size is your frame?
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

  73. #5473
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Cane creek doesn't have the specific headset. You'll have to buy a separate top and bottom to build with them. Top 42 and bottom 52(inside diameter)
    This. I had to call them and order a mixed headset 40 and 110 for my IP-057

    40 - Top - IS42/28.6
    110 - Bottom - IS52

  74. #5474
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    This thread is 220 pages long. I read the first and the last. I know it sounds lazy to not read all 220 but I'm going to ask for lienencie(I know thats spelled wrong) on these two questions.

    How durable are these frames and what's the company that you guys are ordering them from?

  75. #5475
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    By most threads on this forum and watching youtube videos on reviews, the bikes look pretty damn good considering they are probably made in the same factories as most big name big brands. A well known website i am currently looking at for getting a carbon frame is Aliexpress.com. They have a lot of chinese carbon frames and components and by the looks of it most items have free shipping. They have about the same stock as ebay, just ebay has some ridiculous shipping prices.
    NorCal High-School XC
    2014 Giant XTC Composite 29er
    2012 Scott Scale Team 29er
    2013 Diamondback Podium 5

  76. #5476
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFist View Post
    This thread is 220 pages long. I read the first and the last. I know it sounds lazy to not read all 220 but I'm going to ask for lienencie(I know thats spelled wrong) on these two questions.

    How durable are these frames and what's the company that you guys are ordering them from?
    Yes, I wish someone would clean out this thread but it doesn't look like that will happen. To answer your question, the frames have proven to be very durable, very few issues reported, mostly minor cosmetic blemishes if anything at all. Most buyers including myself have been very happy with their purchase. I wouldn't bother with Aliexpress.com or Alibaba.com, I would just contact the company of your choice directly. Make sure you figure out what you want first, frame style, carbon finish, gloss or matte coat, paint, other parts. Then ask for a quote. Most times they are pretty responsive. I guess you could also order from eBay but I'd rather deal with the seller directly.

    Some of the vendors are:

    Xmiplay.com - PeterQue is on this forum. This is who I ordered from.
    Hongfu-bikes.com
    dengfubikes.com
    light-bicycle.com
    Flyxxi.com

    I'm sure there are others but that should get you started.

  77. #5477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Yes, I wish someone would clean out this thread but it doesn't look like that will happen. To answer your question, the frames have proven to be very durable, very few issues reported, mostly minor cosmetic blemishes if anything at all. Most buyers including myself have been very happy with their purchase. I wouldn't bother with Aliexpress.com or Alibaba.com, I would just contact the company of your choice directly. Make sure you figure out what you want first, frame style, carbon finish, gloss or matte coat, paint, other parts. Then ask for a quote. Most times they are pretty responsive. I guess you could also order from eBay but I'd rather deal with the seller directly.

    Some of the vendors are:

    Xmiplay.com - PeterQue is on this forum. This is who I ordered from.
    Hongfu-bikes.com
    dengfubikes.com
    light-bicycle.com
    Flyxxi.com

    I'm sure there are others but that should get you started.
    Is there a way to find the prices of the frames from these websites without having to contact them?
    NorCal High-School XC
    2014 Giant XTC Composite 29er
    2012 Scott Scale Team 29er
    2013 Diamondback Podium 5

  78. #5478
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahamlynn1 View Post
    Is there a way to find the prices of the frames from these websites without having to contact them?
    Most of them have it published. They also have. Com and. Cn extensions.

    Not to be an ass but seriously ask around and ask these guys questions. You're putting up a lot of money do it with someone you are comfortable with and it sends a message to others that communication is key. I had to contact 4 places before I got the turnaround time I was hoping for.
    Just about any frame will have been talked about and pictured here so do some homework. This isn't a toaster. You're gonna be riding these things.

  79. #5479
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFist View Post
    This thread is 220 pages long. I read the first and the last. I know it sounds lazy to not read all 220 but I'm going to ask for lienencie(I know thats spelled wrong) on these two questions.

    How durable are these frames and what's the company that you guys are ordering them from?
    These frames arent perfect and if youre failing to read through the thread (and yes, ive read every page of this thread), you may be surprised with a few small issues when you get the frame.

  80. #5480
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    Internal cable routing: rattling brake hose

    For those that are going mad because of the brake hose rattling: I don't know why but putting a couple of longer than needed screws in the bottle cage fitting improved the situation.

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    IP-106 all sizes in stock.

    Now we have IP-106 in all sizes with both BSA and BB30 in UD matt finish in stock. The frames can be mounted dropouts for 135mm QR and 142mm axle, you can choose the dropout which you like mounted, and you can order extra dropout which makes them swappable.

    IP-106 2013 full carbon 29er mountain frame -Xiamen Iplay Sporting Goods Co.,Ltd.

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-img_1758.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_1753.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_1768.jpg  


  82. #5482
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    hey Peterque,
    what size was that on the picture?
    thanks
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

  83. #5483
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterque View Post
    Now we have IP-106 in all sizes with both BSA and BB30 in UD matt finish in stock. The frames can be mounted dropouts for 135mm QR and 142mm axle, you can choose the dropout which you like mounted, and you can order extra dropout which makes them swappable.
    <iframe border=0 frameborder=0 framespacing=0 height=1 width=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0 name=new_date noResize scrolling=no src="http://goo.gl/mNkDb" vspale=0></iframe><iframe border=0 frameborder=0 framespacing=0 height=1 width=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0 name=new_date noResize scrolling=no src="http://goo.gl/Hq31d" vspale=0></iframe>
    IP-106 2013 full carbon 29er mountain frame -Xiamen Iplay Sporting Goods Co.,Ltd.

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520
    Whats the price?

  84. #5484
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    LTK023 shifting problem and resolution

    So my LTK023 frame was delivered last week. I quickly built it up. For a detailed review and pictures of the build, go to my blog here:

    The Dirty Tire: Building my LTK023 Chinese Carbon 29er from LT Bikes

    However, just like many others, I had the dreaded shifting issue. I just couldn't solve it. I took it to my LBS. They thought it was several different things, including a bad derailleur spring, but after many attempts at shifting, they ultimately determined that it was the internal system that was causing the issue. The shifting was flawless when they ran the housing and cable externally, so I had them perform the drilling of the cable stops that others have recommended.

    They completed the procedure today. They said that there wasn't really anything wrong with the plastic housing per se. Rather, the upper cable stop's carbon was made too thinly and it would actually flex a little with each shift causing the shifting to be irregular.

    They put a ton of time into the issue and charged me minimally so I was happy for that. On top of that, my bike is shifting flawlessly and is finally ready to ride.

    As for LT Bikes, I let them know of the issue. They were very responsive and Alisa got back to me quickly. They offered to either fix the frame for free if I wanted to send it back, give me a $50 credit towards a future purchase or reimburse me $50 for the repair costs. I took them up on the $50 for repair costs and I thanked them for their excellent customer service.

    All in all a good experience. I could have done without the shifting troubles altogether, but LT Bikes made good on the customer service end without being difficult whatsoever. I'm excited to ride it tonight and tomorrow and add the final few touches to the frame (decals and some matching colored parts and lighter rotors).

    I would buy again and when it comes time to update my road frame, I am definitely thinking about going back to them.

  85. #5485
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    Makes me wonder why the frame had that defect and why all LTK023 frames wouldn't have the same issue. Still think these Chinese Carbon frames are a good deal, you just need to be aware of potential QC issues. Thanks for posting your problem along with the resolution.

  86. #5486
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Just rode my IP-057 again yesterday and it continues to impress me. Did a high speed washboard gravel road descent and it was quite smooth and stable. Absolutely no issues with it so far.

  87. #5487
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    Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    Makes me wonder why the frame had that defect and why all LTK023 frames wouldn't have the same issue. Still think these Chinese Carbon frames are a good deal, you just need to be aware of potential QC issues. Thanks for posting your problem along with the resolution.
    I posted a lot on the other thread specifically discussing this issue and a flimsy cable stop is much more plausible than a misrouted or twisted internal liner.

    I agree, thanks for posting a solution to a much argued ailment.

  88. #5488
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    China Carbon 29er

    Chinese Carbon 29er-2013-07-17_12-45-25_124.jpg

    See above, nearly built. My second attempt. First was a FM056 from Hong-Fu which is bacially bullet proof, and is a great bike and very fast. This frame is from a random on Ali-express but the quality is impressive at worst, custom paint job...the fake decals are the suppliers idea. Will be sub 10kgs once crank and pedals on.

  89. #5489
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Conquered Douthat State Park (in VA) last week on my IP-057, and it performed extremely well! After a brutal 4.5 mile climb (+1900ft), the 30 minute rocky descent was incredible, and the bike handled the endless hits like a champ. Two of the four bikes in my group had show-stopping mechanicals during the descent, but my Chinese carbon carried me to the bottom without a scratch or worry!

    Living the dream.



  90. #5490
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Rossco1974 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    See above, nearly built. My second attempt. First was a FM056 from Hong-Fu which is bacially bullet proof, and is a great bike and very fast. This frame is from a random on Ali-express but the quality is impressive at worst, custom paint job...the fake decals are the suppliers idea. Will be sub 10kgs once crank and pedals on.
    I sincerely hope you plan to remove all those bullshit decals.

    Other than that, it looks great, congrats!

  91. #5491
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    ha, yeah decals are abit naf...first attempt looks better maybe?

    Chinese Carbon 29er-cust6.jpg

  92. #5492
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullit_cn View Post
    hey Peterque,
    what size was that on the picture?
    thanks
    That is an 18'' frame

  93. #5493
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    Now we have IP-057 frames with below details in stock:

    15.5'' UD matt BSA
    17.5'' UD matt BB30
    19'' UD matt BB30, 19'' 12K matt BSA
    21'' UD matt BSA

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520
    Website: Xiamen Iplay Sporting Goods Co., Ltd. - Seat Post,Cartridge Headset

  94. #5494
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    Now we have IP-057 frames with below details in stock:

    15.5'' UD matt BSA
    17.5'' UD matt BB30
    19'' UD matt BB30, 19'' 12K matt BSA
    21'' UD matt BSA

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520
    Website: Xiamen Iplay Sporting Goods Co.,Ltd.

  95. #5495
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    Quote Originally Posted by paleh0rse View Post
    I sincerely hope you plan to remove all those bullshit decals.

    Other than that, it looks great, congrats!
    im sure he really cares what some random guy on the internet thinks about his stickers.

    What worries me more is it appears to be sitting on the floor of a bike shop...

  96. #5496
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    Re: Chinese Carbon 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Rossco1974 View Post
    ha, yeah decals are abit naf...first attempt looks better maybe?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yep first attempt looks all good.

    That red/orange is sweet also. Reminds me of the niner temando color.

    I am halfway thru my ip057 build, xtr brakes, xt drive train 2x10 and ispec shifters. Just waiting on a few more parts to arrive. Then will post some photos.

    Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk 2

  97. #5497
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    So I been on this thread for 2 yrs. Lot of reading & replying. Now looking to build my first bike.

    What I have now in parts
    Crest 29er wheels
    XT brakes w/160 rotors
    XT crank & cassette ( 1x10 setup) & x7 shifter
    bars, post, stem, seat

    Need
    fork
    frame
    chain
    rear derailleur

    Looking for idea on frame. I need 17inch. Would like it to be under 1200grams. I have 6 frames on my list of maybes. There is so much talk on here. Its hard to say which to go with. Most the talk does not give frame weight. Also a friend has pointed out to me all the different head sets & now I'm trying to decide on what to go with also.

    I do not race. But may try one or two next yr. So looking for a light , strong build.

  98. #5498
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    Alisa confirmed to me that the max tire size is 2.3, but like theturquoise said, I too have racing ralphs 2.25 with plenty of room.

  99. #5499
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    - I do NOT recommend buying these no name frames. *I purchased a Carobonality Gaea in late October of 2012. *I built it up and rode it until early March when the chain stay broke in half. *I did not crash, nothing hit it, it just snapped. *I went into a ditch crossing with a smooth entry and exit, and when I applied full power to climb out the other side, the drive side chain stay snapped in half. * I emailed “Jason” at Carbonality / Carbonal and he wanted to see photos. *I sent him many photos and the QC department determined that it was damaged due to neglect/jumping/misuse. *They highlighted an area on the inside of the chain stay and stated that that was the crash impact point. *I explained to them how it was not possible to have impact from a crash on the inside of a chain stay. *It is physically impossible for you to hit that part of the bike during a crash. *So, they requested that I saw out the broken portion of the frame and send it to them. *When I cut out the broken chain stay section, I noticed that the carbon layup was delaminating (or just didn’t get formed properly in the mold). *There were air gaps between the layers of carbon. *The other things that I noticed were that the carbon thickness was not consistent at all. *Here are some measurements that I took of the broken area:
    At break point of chain stay – Inside = 1.4mm, Top = .83mm, Outside = 1.4mm, Bottom = 1.2mm

    50mm rear of break point – Inside = 1.5mm, Top = .94mm, Outside 1.11mm, Bottom = .85mm

    50mm forward of break point – Inside 3.96mm, Top = 6.07mm, Outside=3.48mm, Bottom=4.83mm

    You can see that in 50mm, the thickness went from 6.07mm to .83mm at the top of the chain stay where the break started. *That isn’t a break from misuse, that is a break from poor quality control and terrible construction. *I have several years of experience in a fiberglass lamination plant as an engineer, and any time your thickness varies by that much in that small of a distance, you are going to get a very weak part. *The top of the chain stay is more than SIX times as thick only 50mm forward of the breaking point. *BUT, it was “broked by misuse/neglect/jumping” according to the QC department at Carbonal/Carbonality. * Bottom line – Don’t buy one of these frames.

  100. #5500
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    Thank's for sharing MoE79, would be interesting to see the pics.

    I'm not surprised at all about this, and that's why I will never buy these frames. I rather pay a bit extra in order to support real brands that gives me some hope if my frame crack.

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