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  1. #7801
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    Completely disassembled my BB30 today, removed all grease from bearings, replaced with new. Greased bearing cups, spindle, pressed it all back into BB, and it still clicks and cracks! Could it be that BB itself is loose?
    Please help us save the Snow Leopard
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  2. #7802
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    Completely disassembled my BB30 today, removed all grease from bearings, replaced with new. Greased bearing cups, spindle, pressed it all back into BB, and it still clicks and cracks! Could it be that BB itself is loose?
    I don't have much to suggest here. If you are sure the clicking/popping sound is coming from the BB, all I can suggest is you make sure you have torqued the BB and the crank properly using a torque wrench. Having the correct torque is very important on most bicycle components, particularly so with anything that assembles to carbon. Check your pedals, cleats, seat post, etc. Sometimes it is difficult to know for sure where the noise is coming from.

    I've read several BB30 complaints and while some people have had good luck with it, I'm sticking with BSA as I would not notice any benefit to BB30 in my opinion. BSA just seems to work for me so I have stuck with it.

  3. #7803
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    I don't have much to suggest here. If you are sure the clicking/popping sound is coming from the BB, all I can suggest is you make sure you have torqued the BB and the crank properly using a torque wrench. Having the correct torque is very important on most bicycle components, particularly so with anything that assembles to carbon. Check your pedals, cleats, seat post, etc. Sometimes it is difficult to know for sure where the noise is coming from.

    I've read several BB30 complaints and while some people have had good luck with it, I'm sticking with BSA as I would not notice any benefit to BB30 in my opinion. BSA just seems to work for me so I have stuck with it.
    Yep, only after i tried BB30, i realize that good old BSA is still bloody good.

    Pedals is not clicking - checked. Seatpost or saddle is not clicking - i pedalled not sitting on the saddle. Crank arm is screwed using torque wrench... still clicking.
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  4. #7804
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    I am not a fan of BB30. The only reason I have mine is because I wanted to run a BEER EBB for single speed. Fortunately, I have had no issues. If I were you, I'd probably ditch the BB30 crank and go with one of these. KCNC/RWC BB30 to GXP BB Adapter with Enduro ZERO Bearings
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  5. #7805
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    The only possible problem that i may have - my FSA K-Force crankset, which is absolute crap. Do not ever buy this thing.
    I am unable to find a temporarily replacement to check, whether it is my crankset clicks or BB.
    Just in case, i started collecting Cannondale Hollowgram crankset piece by piece from ebay. Already found MTB spindle cheap enough...
    Please help us save the Snow Leopard
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  6. #7806
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    The only possible problem that i may have - my FSA K-Force crankset, which is absolute crap. Do not ever buy this thing.
    I am unable to find a temporarily replacement to check, whether it is my crankset clicks or BB.
    Just in case, i started collecting Cannondale Hollowgram crankset piece by piece from ebay. Already found MTB spindle cheap enough...
    Which K-force do you have? The double, triple or light(386 compact)?
    I have the 386 compact in SL-K line...it is 86BCD...not much out there for it.
    I am happy with it, and it is a friggin good looking crank.
    If you want to go 1x, FSA is coming out with their Megatooth sometime soon.
    You might repress with copper anti-seize or some use Loctite(look it up) - on the outside of the bearing. The belief being, there are gaps or play between the bearing and bottom bracket area.
    There have been a lot of Chinese frames sold - in BB30 and not many complaints...I was thinking that their tolerances are better than others(maybe people haven't complainted bc.they are the Chinese frames). Clicking, is your bearing bad?
    Technically, BB30 is not much different than BMX bikes.
    Lastly, you say can't find a replacement? and you are going to Hollogram. or BB30 is quite common, you can try lots of different cranks?

  7. #7807
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Which K-force do you have? The double, triple or light(386 compact)?
    I have the 386 compact in SL-K line...it is 86BCD...not much out there for it.
    I am happy with it, and it is a friggin good looking crank.
    If you want to go 1x, FSA is coming out with their Megatooth sometime soon.
    You might repress with copper anti-seize or some use Loctite(look it up) - on the outside of the bearing. The belief being, there are gaps or play between the bearing and bottom bracket area.
    There have been a lot of Chinese frames sold - in BB30 and not many complaints...I was thinking that their tolerances are better than others(maybe people haven't complainted bc.they are the Chinese frames). Clicking, is your bearing bad?
    Technically, BB30 is not much different than BMX bikes.
    Lastly, you say can't find a replacement? and you are going to Hollogram. or BB30 is quite common, you can try lots of different cranks?
    I've got older revision of triple MTB K-Force, with "rounder" crank arms


    Crappy thing about it - pedal inserts gets loose with time, and it is a common thing with K-Force cranksets.

    To prevent gaps between bearings and BB making noice, i have greased this area. I could be wrong, but at least after greasing, it should be not clicking, but it clicks, and even grinding when accelerating hardly.

    About replacement - i cant find BB30 cranks locally, here in Kazakhstan - just to check, without actually buying them. And hollowgrams, i go to it because right pedal insert in my K-Force got loose, i fixed it with a big washer, but it is ugly and will not last. So i will go to Hollowgram, when i will buy complete set.
    Please help us save the Snow Leopard
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  8. #7808
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    Annoying clicking sound could be from any of many bike's parts - from derailer hanger to stem. Best solution is to go full dissasemble, cleaning, lubing and back. Or as you have carbon cranks - it's also one of devil's details.

  9. #7809
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    I have XX1 carbon cranks on two different bikes and I can attest that XX1 carbon cranks are no more likely to creak than a set of aluminum cranks. The carbon is rigidly bonded to the aluminum in the crank arms so there is no movement between the carbon and aluminum.

  10. #7810
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    Funny thing is that bb30 version of such cranks is not that creaky like GXP which I have.

  11. #7811
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    check the area around the bb, mine cracked awhile ago around where the metal BB cups were epoxied/bonded to the carbon frame.

    It was replaced free of charge and it shipped in 2 days [carbonal]

  12. #7812
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    SID with brain. I've got it!

  13. #7813
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    IP-256sl size 19, weight 21lbs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-image.jpg  


  14. #7814
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    Dear All,
    Hope all of you are well. I have made a custom clearance last Saturday morning and I was very lucky to get a tax free on the package. Some inside information, if you order a complete bike assembly at any amount of cost it will be tax free. But if you order bicycle parts with some quantity it may be subjected for customs inspection. Also, for any importation goods up to USD 157.00 will be no tax.

    So, I have already building the frame from Saturday and Sunday, all assembly on the rigid fork, headset, the cables and brake hose goes in very well with no problem. from the look, the frame finish quality and the paintings are just superb with no complaint, thank to Peter and his team. But one thing that I discovered on the plastic tube attached on the cables and rear brake hose routing. Luckily, before I start to install the cables I made an inspection via the head tube to see how does all these route goes inside. And to my surprise, all the three tube are sort of tangled up (not in line as what it supposed to be). So I have to spend a bit of time to carefully remove the tubes from the top and aligned it accordingly as per specs, quite a challenge though. If I did not inspect this, sure the shifting will be a big problem and it will definitely rub against the rear brake hose which eventually could cause a leak. So all that sorted out. The only left right not which holds back the building is, I was not able to use my current FSA double carbon chain ring crank (42T/29T) as it touched the FD (E-Type direct mount). So the solution is, I need to get another crankset with a proper 29er ratio of 38T/26T which will fit it well into the FD. With limited budget, I will go for XT Crankset and I hope I can still maintain the total bike weight target of 8.0kg. Now with everything but without the crankset, pedals, chain and bike meter/sensor is already 7.4kg. I guess I might be slightly of 8.0kg and I presume it will be probably 8.5kg. Will update you guys later with the build photos, cheers and take care.

  15. #7815
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    A miracle! One ride after greasing everything in BB, and voila, no clicking! Such a relief to know that there is no problems with frame.
    Please help us save the Snow Leopard
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  16. #7816
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    A miracle! One ride after greasing everything in BB, and voila, no clicking! Such a relief to know that there is no problems with frame.
    Good to hear - hope it holds for ya...again, you may need something more substantive to fill in the difference between the BB and the bearings.

  17. #7817
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    Quote Originally Posted by brmeyer135 View Post
    Good to hear - hope it holds for ya...again, you may need something more substantive to fill in the difference between the BB and the bearings.
    My friend has some loctite, i think it might help.
    Please help us save the Snow Leopard
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  18. #7818
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    My Final Build IP-256

    Dear All,
    Attached photo is my final build of my own brand 'Azmie' (IP-256). Due to the crankset that I am not able to re-use my FSA Carbon Crank - K-Force Light (2-Chainrings), therefore I need to settle down temporarily for a 2nd hand Shimano XT Crankset (26T/38T). So the total bike weight is 9.0kg, my target was 8.0kg. Anyway here are by breakdown group sets;

    1) Saddle - Fizik Gobi.
    2) Seat Post - Scandium KCNC.
    3) Seat Post Clamp - No Brand (from Ximplay).
    4) Handle Bar (Straight) - Scandium KCNC.
    5) Handle Stem (90mm / 0 deg) - Scandium KCNC.
    6) Spacer - Carbon (No Brand).
    7) Headset - No Brand (from Ximplay).
    8) Handle Grip - Sram.
    9) Brakeset - Avid Elixer CR.
    10) Shifters - Sram 9S Gripshift.
    11) Bottom Bracket Bearing - Ceramic Bearing by CEMA.
    12) Crankset - Shimano XT (26T/38T).
    13) Pedal - Time ATAC Roc S.
    14 FD - Shimano XT (E-Type Direct Mount).
    15) RD - Sram XO 9S.
    16) Cassette - Sram XX1 9S.
    17) Brake Rotor - Sram XX1.
    18) Hubset - Hope Pro2.
    19) Spoke - DT Swiss.
    20) Nipple - DT Swiss.
    21) Rims - ZTR Crest (White).
    22) Tyres - Schwalble Ralph Racing 2.1 (Tubeless).
    21) Shifter Cable - Jagwire MTB Pro.
    22) Brake Hose - Jagwire Hyflow.
    23) Bottle Cage (Carbon) - Look (by Ximplay).
    24) Water Bottle - Local Brand.
    25) Chain (Gold) - KMC.
    I have not fully test ride the bike yet at this moment but just a few very short ride to test the brakes and shifting. I am looking forward to fully test it this coming Sunday morning for a on road test first. The later will go for off road. Regards to all, cheers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-20140726_161536.jpg  


  19. #7819
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    great looking 29er. happy riding!

  20. #7820
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    IP-256 SL frame in all sizes with both BSA and BB30 are available in stock now

    Please feel free to contact me if you need them

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520

  21. #7821
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    Hello there,
    as i went away with 1X11, i'm thinking of going all internal on my IP-106.
    so, routing the rear brake cable through the downtube, exit will be right under the BB.
    So, the frame mold was originally designed to have two exits under the bb. one is not drilled out yet. The other is. Should i dremel the second one out?

    Chinese Carbon 29er-foto.jpg
    any advice?

  22. #7822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azmie68 View Post
    Dear All,
    So the total bike weight is 9.0kg, my target was 8.0kg.
    How do you guys do that? I have 9 kg with tiny 700x28 slicks, when you all achieve this weight with dirt tires...
    Please help us save the Snow Leopard
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  23. #7823
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    How do you guys do that? I have 9 kg with tiny 700x28 slicks, when you all achieve this weight with dirt tires...
    He's riding the bike with a rigid fork. That save 1000gr compared to a suspension fork.
    My IP-256SL buildlist: [here]

  24. #7824
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    It seems there's very little info on these bikes online, very few people seem to actually ride them, but this is my CARBONAL ORION








  25. #7825
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    How do you guys do that? I have 9 kg with tiny 700x28 slicks, when you all achieve this weight with dirt tires...
    I think you hit on the main thread through here....majority XC riding can be handled by a rigid fork...a dropper isn't needed and 1x will handle it
    Never saw a list of your components...do that either here or in weight weenies for some feedback.

    Did you try the cyclo tires for the next race?

    Pr3dator - did you fix your click?

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