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Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!

553K views 2K replies 300 participants last post by  dubthang 
#1 ·
Mine's here!
Here's the first pics.

Los
From Drop Box
 
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#82 ·
If it makes you feel any better, my E13 bb has blown bearings. The whole bike is built up, but now I have to try to make my old Stylo crank work since there is enough play to rub my chainstays.

Other notes of interest.
-I wouldn't feel comfortable running 180's on this bike. 175's are very close to the chainstays.
-My current build weighs in at 24#.
-The riding position with a Niner carbon fork is excellent.
 
#87 ·
fat front

I'm starting to build up my medium. Enabler fork with Larry 3.8 on 47mm Trialtech rim. The b.b. height looks like 11.5" with this setup. 70 degree head angle setup like this. In the back I have a 2.4" Racing Ralph, good clearance despite slammed forward dropouts.

Can't wait to ride it! Hopefully this weekend.
 

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#124 ·
I'm starting to build up my medium. Enabler fork with Larry 3.8 on 47mm Trialtech rim. The b.b. height looks like 11.5" with this setup. 70 degree head angle setup like this. In the back I have a 2.4" Racing Ralph, good clearance despite slammed forward dropouts.

Can't wait to ride it! Hopefully this weekend.
Gotta bump this post, due to the awesomeness of the build. I want to see how this one turns out!
 
#95 ·
Please tell me that 180mm crankarms will fit the Nimble 9. Please...

This is turning out to be the perfect frame I have been looking for; electric blue, super short chainstays, sliding dropouts, and the ability to tuck a 2.4 Ardent with room to spare.
You can see above where I posted the clearance for 175's. On the drive side you'll notice I already have one spacer in place to clear the chainring. You'd probably need to have two spacers drive side and one spacer non-drive to give clearance at the stay for the crank arm.
 
#99 ·
Love the N9. Great builds, BTW. I wish the bros would build a frame size suitable for 6 and a half footers+ like me. It would then be on my very short list of frames to consider for my next SS build.
 
#108 ·
Yes.
Look at the Canfield geo drawings. With the different A-C's they show different axle heights. In reality the axle height is the same and the head tube moves up; so does the BB-- rotated about the rear axle. That slackens the seat tube angle and makes the ETT line intersect the seat tube (in this case 'effective' seat tube) further back. Showing geo for different forks is pretty ambitious. They've done about as good a job as can be done without doing whole new drawings for each A-C, which would be unnecessarily cumbersome.
 
#117 ·
Ha, I just got done building the blue one yesterday evening, but will ride it tonight! I also put together a ss Nimble and rode it this past weekend and it is actually stiffer verticaly than I thought it would be but not as bad as the Yelli. So, i would say that for everyday trail riding I like the Nimble better; both are awesome frames though which is why I'm holding onto my Yelli:thumbsup:
 
#119 ·
Back in San Antonio, got a chance to ride the N9 on one of the rocky, slow speed, technical trails we have here. There were a couple of times that its "differentness" from the bikes I've ridden before threw me off of my game, so I didn't clean everything. But overall, I was able to get myself out of some sketch situations better than before. The shorter wheelbase makes riding certain obstacles, well, different.
All in all, I am still liking this bike more and more every time I ride it.

Los
 
#120 ·
What kind of differentness? I have a Surly Karate Monkey with a Vassago Odis fork. Before the Odis, I had a Monkey fork. The original fork/frame combination made for a brutal ride and often times, I would have to brake for rough rooty rocky sections. The curved seatstays on the N9 should be a much more forgiving ride. Combined with a Walt fork, this will be a fantastic rigid bike.
 
#125 ·
I second the 'different' feeling when riding tech areas. The rear wheel hooks up quick which removes the slight waiting game on my Peace. When entering a rock garden for example, I'd just pick a line, loft the front end, and pedal into it. I would be in the middle of the thing way quicker than on my old Peace. I can really feel the rear wheel dig in, and plow into the tech areas. That wheel is right under me which makes for a much more responsive ride.
 
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