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  1. #801
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    I just got my Purple but haven't opened the box up yet. Color looks like great!

    Is that fork similar to a Niner Carbon in length? How do you like it as far as bottom bracket height/pedal strikes?

  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    I just got my Purple but haven't opened the box up yet. Color looks like great!

    Is that fork similar to a Niner Carbon in length? How do you like it as far as bottom bracket height/pedal strikes?
    If you are referring to me, I am not sure how close the monocog fork is to the Niner fork other than A2C. I'm unsure of what the monocog fork offset is since its what I had and I liked the the way it handled on the frame the N9 replaced. I haven't had any issues with pedal strikes but I tend to anticipate them and pedal forward or back before they can happen.

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockin View Post
    Looks like only one set of bottle mounts. My orange got here yesterday and only has one - a bit disappointed. Zapped an email off to see why this is different than what I was told when ordering.
    Yup. Got an email conformation from Sean at Canfield, only one set of bottle mounts for the new frames. Really a bummer.

  4. #804
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    Quote Originally Posted by WrecklessREX View Post

    What is that thing zip-tied to your seat post?
    WWW.TEAMDICKY.COM

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  5. #805
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    Its a re-usable zip-tie holding a tube on there, not the prettiest but it works.

  6. #806
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    Quote Originally Posted by WrecklessREX View Post
    Its a re-usable zip-tie holding a tube on there, not the prettiest but it works.
    Yeah, That is an understatement. NOT the prettiest. Kinda ruins the whole look of the bike,but whatever floats your boat...

  7. #807
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    Ordered two frames today, XL Lime and S Purple and they are on there way.
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  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logover View Post
    Ordered two frames today, XL Lime and S Purple and they are on there way.
    Please tell me you're going to make one of these?

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  9. #809
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    A Nimble9 tall bike would be sweet. I'l donate a beer for this project.

  10. #810
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Please tell me you're going to make one of these?
    haha, nope one for the wife and one for me.
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  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by wasfast View Post
    Yeah, That is an understatement. NOT the prettiest. Kinda ruins the whole look of the bike,but whatever floats your boat...

    Not that I like it but, I was going to be a few miles from the car by myself on a trail I had not ridden before and wanted to be prepared.

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by WrecklessREX View Post
    Not that I like it but, I was going to be a few miles from the car by myself on a trail I had not ridden before and wanted to be prepared.
    Not to pile on, but check out these.
    I love ;em, and they make everything all better!

    Los
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  13. #813
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    Thanks los, I deserve it a little grief in my Nimble 9s defense. . The race strap is nice in a louis vuittonish kinda way.

  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by WrecklessREX View Post
    Thanks los, I deserve it a little grief in my Nimble 9s defense. . The race strap is nice in a louis vuittonish kinda way.
    Oh, dang! Louis Vuitton-ish?!?
    And here I was, about to let you know that you inspired me to put a rigid fork back on mine...

    Los
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  15. #815
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    I guess it was just the first picture of the race (byzantine) that they show. I didn't realize at the time all of the different color options. Diamondplate or flannel fit me a little better.

    The thing rips with the rigid on it, shouldn't need any more inspiration than that! Glad I could help though, I think...

  16. #816
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    Mine showed up today. Hopefully I can built it up tomorrow!!


  17. #817
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    The orange and purple colors are bringing back flashbacks of the Dean Jesters (which I still have one of, albeit not this color)

    <img src="http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt301/spectrumforum/SNB11980.jpg">

  18. #818
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    Arrived in the mail today.

    Here are some shots to compare frame sizes and weights. Purple is a small and green is a XL

















    Builds to come soon
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  19. #819
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    Those are awesome weights for steel. Makes my Honzo look quite porky.
    konahonzo

  20. #820
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    Cant wait to see those built up! They look great.

  21. #821
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    Chainstay length

    Finally got my orange one together last night. Seems like the chainstay length is a bit longer than the advertised 16.25. 33:20 should take a stay length of 16.35 with a new chain - I had to use an older chain to make it work. Any one else see this or is it just my frame.

  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockin View Post
    Finally got my orange one together last night. Seems like the chainstay length is a bit longer than the advertised 16.25. 33:20 should take a stay length of 16.35 with a new chain - I had to use an older chain to make it work. Any one else see this or is it just my frame.
    Not positive, but I think that the length is measured parallel to the ground on these frames. That would make the physical chain stay longer than 16 1/4".

  23. #823
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    Did the math for you. If you are running an 80mm fork then your stays should be about 16.48". My frame is not in front of me so I can't take a physical measurement.

    16.25" with 70mm of bb drop gives a hypotenuse of 16.48"

  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    Did the math for you. If you are running an 80mm fork then your stays should be about 16.48". My frame is not in front of me so I can't take a physical measurement.

    16.25" with 70mm of bb drop gives a hypotenuse of 16.48"
    Kind of like effective top tube measurements, I think?

  25. #825
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    Quote Originally Posted by WrecklessREX View Post
    Kind of like effective top tube measurements, I think?
    Yup. The direct distance between the center of the BB and the rear axle is what matters, not the actual length of the stays.

    Los
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  26. #826
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    Did the math for you. If you are running an 80mm fork then your stays should be about 16.48". My frame is not in front of me so I can't take a physical measurement.

    16.25" with 70mm of bb drop gives a hypotenuse of 16.48"
    Well crap. I thought I was going to be trying something with a .5 inch shorter length. The difference with my Vulture is under .2 of an inch

  27. #827
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    Don't sweat it Rockin. If you want to know for sure what your CS length is, take a straight edge through the center of the front and rear skewer and a square down to through the center line of the BB. Measure from the square (CL of BB) to the center of the rear skewer to get your actual chainstay length. I guess this number depends on if you have a rigid or suspension fork. If you are running a suspension fork the length will shorten with a sagged fork. I measured mine at 16.4 inches with my rigid fork and I can still move my sliders .2 inch forward.

  28. #828
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    What's the difference between your sweet NIMBLE 9 and the Kona HONZO?
    Si,said

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by WrecklessREX View Post
    Don't sweat it Rockin. If you want to know for sure what your CS length is, take a straight edge through the center of the front and rear skewer and a square down to through the center line of the BB. Measure from the square (CL of BB) to the center of the rear skewer to get your actual chainstay length. I guess this number depends on if you have a rigid or suspension fork. If you are running a suspension fork the length will shorten with a sagged fork. I measured mine at 16.4 inches with my rigid fork and I can still move my sliders .2 inch forward.
    Got some miles in today on it and I will stop complaining. Descending on it was a blast and it climbed pretty good too. I am sure that once I get the Talas dialed in I will like it even more.

  30. #830
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    Are those weights without all the slider/dropout hardware?

  31. #831
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockin View Post
    Finally got my orange one together last night. Seems like the chainstay length is a bit longer than the advertised 16.25. 33:20 should take a stay length of 16.35 with a new chain - I had to use an older chain to make it work. Any one else see this or is it just my frame.
    Could you post some pics? I'd like to see and orange built up.

  32. #832
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    Are those weights without all the slider/dropout hardware?
    Yes. But after adding the hardware it was not much more.
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  33. #833
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    Got my orange built up with a rigid front fork, hopefully I will get the fork I have now that was wrong returned and find one that fits soon till then I shall rock it rigid, what a fun ride.

  34. #834
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykelc View Post
    Could you post some pics? I'd like to see and orange built up.
    Here is a crappy cell phone pic...

    On some fairly rocky descents with the fork at 120 I couldn't stop smiling. Point, shoot, air time...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-imag0059.jpg  


  35. #835
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    Loving that new orange!!! Let's see some white builds. D:
    konahonzo

  36. #836
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    Rockin, that is sweet! Good to hear that you are enjoying it. I could see taking the Nimble 9 on some longer adventures.

  37. #837
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    Finally complete.


    There are a few more pics here.

  38. #838
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearTech View Post
    Finally complete.


    There are a few more pics here.
    Looks great. What travel is that Loop?

  39. #839
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    The Loop is set at 120mm and it feels great so far.

  40. #840
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockin View Post
    Here is a crappy cell phone pic...

    On some fairly rocky descents with the fork at 120 I couldn't stop smiling. Point, shoot, air time...
    I totally agree with the 120mm/descent statement, very comfortable at speed in the chunder. It is pretty nice on the grinding climbs too . This is a great solution for the DHer looking for a 29er hardtail.

  41. #841
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    Well my frame (White L) and fork (black Loop) arrived today.

    In my excitement I unpacked the frame on my front verandah and managed to promptly loose one pf the dropout washers into the garden

    An hour of searching (in the dark using my riding lights) and I finally located it

    Just waiting on a few more parts and the build will commence. Key deets:

    Loop fork (probably set to 120);

    E Thirteen cranks;

    1x6 using an XT mid and Paul's Thumbie;

    Formula Oros;

    Hope Pro II (SS rear) with Flows;

    Thomson post & stem; and

    Salsa 17 degree flatbar.

    Should be good

  42. #842
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    Quote Originally Posted by n plus one View Post
    Well my frame (White L) and fork (black Loop) arrived today.

    In my excitement I unpacked the frame on my front verandah and managed to promptly loose one pf the dropout washers into the garden

    An hour of searching (in the dark using my riding lights) and I finally located it

    Just waiting on a few more parts and the build will commence. Key deets:

    Loop fork (probably set to 120);

    E Thirteen cranks;

    1x6 using an XT mid and Paul's Thumbie;

    Formula Oros;

    Hope Pro II (SS rear) with Flows;

    Thomson post & stem; and

    Salsa 17 degree flatbar.

    Should be good
    Sounds like a nicely thought out tough build! That parts list sounds like what I would choose when building up a bike... (Well, ok, if I had a bunch of $$$$ to put towards building up a bike.)

  43. #843
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    Here's my M purple waiting to get built. Will be SS and rigid.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1331645994.224373.jpg  


  44. #844
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    How are you loop owners liking the fork on this frame. I thinking I'm going to order one up when my refund for my reba comes in. What does the fork weigh?

  45. #845
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    I can play now too. I am still making a few tweaks, but so far I like it.

  46. #846
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    Octalink/ISIS Splined BB

    Anyone running an Octalink or ISIS Slined BB with their N9? If so, what is your spindle length? Thanks.

  47. #847
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    How are you loop owners liking the fork on this frame. I thinking I'm going to order one up when my refund for my reba comes in. What does the fork weigh?
    So far so good. Damping is great and the fork is responsive. No idea on the weight but I'll see if I can get it for you.

  48. #848
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    I'm running an old set of RF Turbine LPs (ISIS) and went with a 118mm spindle. Working fine so far.
    - Joe

    Quote Originally Posted by OneArm View Post
    Anyone running an Octalink or ISIS Slined BB with their N9? If so, what is your spindle length? Thanks.
    We rejoice in our suffering, knowing that suffering produces endurance, and endurance produces character.

  49. #849
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    We the people ...

    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    How are you loop owners liking the fork on this frame. I thinking I'm going to order one up when my refund for my reba comes in. What does the fork weigh?
    1950 grams, with axle, uncut steerer and no star nut.

  50. #850
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    Finally finished my wife's Nimble 9 (life and a move to CO got in the way).





    Action shots!

    Suffering...


    Revenge on the DH


    She enjoyed it greatly!

  51. #851
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    Good job!

    Well, got my first pedal in today. Initial impressions:



    She' a very flickable bike - definitely likes to play and be airborne. Very stiff frame - feels more like alloy than a fine tubed steel frame (which is no criticism given the kind of riding style the bike encourages). Loop fork is the bomb - far beyond the Reba I've just come off.

    Money well spent? Hell yeah!

    More to follow.

  52. #852
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    Cool-blue Rhythm Nimble 9 as a Replacement/Upgrade from Jabber?

    I'm thinking I want to try something diffrent...

    I currently ride an 18" Jabber w/ODIS fork (and sometimes a Niner Carbon ). Thinking of swapping everything over to a Nimble 9 (might need a new fork (HT length), but will stay rigid).

    My question is, do I stick with an M (18") or go up to a L (20")? It seems like most folks are going up a size?

    The 18" Jabber fits me great - I'm 6'0" with a 32-ish inseam (80mm stem and laid-back post)... If I stick with the Medium, I might be able to use the fork(s) I have, the Large will likely drive me to get a new one...

    I ride mostly Singletrack (SE Michigan) with short steap-ish climbs. Not so much in the way of big roocks and the like... Oh, and I'm a Clyde

    Your thoughts?

  53. #853
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Heisch View Post
    What's the difference between your sweet NIMBLE 9 and the Kona HONZO?
    Logover's XL Nimble9 = 5.26 lbs (27.2mm seat tube; 1-1/8" head tube; 70 HTA; direct-mount FD)
    lubes' XL Honzo = 6.75 lbs! (31.6mm seat tube, 44mm head tube; 68 HTA; ISCG-only)
    Trailwrecker at large

  54. #854
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    Quote Originally Posted by classrc View Post
    I'm thinking I want to try something diffrent...

    I currently ride an 18" Jabber w/ODIS fork (and sometimes a Niner Carbon ). Thinking of swapping everything over to a Nimble 9 (might need a new fork (HT length), but will stay rigid).

    My question is, do I stick with an M (18") or go up to a L (20")? It seems like most folks are going up a size?

    The 18" Jabber fits me great - I'm 6'0" with a 32-ish inseam (80mm stem and laid-back post)... If I stick with the Medium, I might be able to use the fork(s) I have, the Large will likely drive me to get a new one...

    I ride mostly Singletrack (SE Michigan) with short steap-ish climbs. Not so much in the way of big roocks and the like... Oh, and I'm a Clyde

    Your thoughts?
    I'm about an inch or so shorter with about the same inseam. The medium fits me well with a 90mm stem, but I could have easily gone with the large. I'd guess you might be happier on a large, but suggest you chat with Sean or Chris at Canfield about it.

    Los
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  55. #855
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    Any 6" guys on an XL?
    I have tried several L's, inbred and jab, and every time I go there I end up lengthening the stem to get the cockpit somewhere that is remotely comfortable. I use slightly setback bars on 130mm stem now, (groovy bars) and the only XL I have ever been on, Rumblefish II was the most comfortably fit bike I have ridden.
    But I am 6" with 32.5 inseam and everyone that size seems to be "Large is the way to go".
    Anyone my size try it and if so did it feel huge or just a little big?

  56. #856
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoorBehavior View Post
    Any 6" guys on an XL?
    I have tried several L's, inbred and jab, and every time I go there I end up lengthening the stem to get the cockpit somewhere that is remotely comfortable. I use slightly setback bars on 130mm stem now, (groovy bars) and the only XL I have ever been on, Rumblefish II was the most comfortably fit bike I have ridden.
    But I am 6" with 32.5 inseam and everyone that size seems to be "Large is the way to go".
    Anyone my size try it and if so did it feel huge or just a little big?
    Both Chris and Lance are your size and ride the Larges.
    Once Chris has his phone back talk to him about size.
    I am 5"11 and ride a medium.
    VM
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  57. #857
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    Quote Originally Posted by classrc View Post
    I'm thinking I want to try something diffrent...

    I currently ride an 18" Jabber w/ODIS fork (and sometimes a Niner Carbon ). Thinking of swapping everything over to a Nimble 9 (might need a new fork (HT length), but will stay rigid).

    My question is, do I stick with an M (18") or go up to a L (20")? It seems like most folks are going up a size?

    The 18" Jabber fits me great - I'm 6'0" with a 32-ish inseam (80mm stem and laid-back post)... If I stick with the Medium, I might be able to use the fork(s) I have, the Large will likely drive me to get a new one...

    I ride mostly Singletrack (SE Michigan) with short steap-ish climbs. Not so much in the way of big roocks and the like... Oh, and I'm a Clyde

    Your thoughts?
    I'm 6'-3" with ~34" inseam riding a large. I am prob. at the upper end to fit a large, but I have always rode a 19-20" frame. I am using a 400mm seat post and a 100mm stem w/30" flat bars and it was comfortable on a 3 hour ride this past weekend. Bars are a hair below seat. It wheelies on command, but still climbs steep with no problem (I realize that that is counter-intuitive, however it's true).
    If I was running the seat any lower, I would not be able to slide the seat far enough back on the rails (for me). I also tried a 90mm stem and was too cramped.

    btw - my N9 with VooDoo 500 rigid fork steers almost by ESP. It is stable on-center, but when I want it to turn it requires no body English or anything. Just a snap of the bars and a lean. It is effortless, predictable, and confidence-inspiring. You would think an MCR9, which is generally considered "quick-handling", might outmaneuver a slacker bike like the N9, but it doesn't. The MCR required more rider input. I am really getting my groove on with the N9.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  58. #858
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    I went through this too...

    I am 6'0", 31.5 inseam and went with a Large. I really was thinking a M was best judging from past bikes but after emailing with Canfield I feel solid with my Large choice. It's not built up though so I can't say how it rides

  59. #859
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    ... and if we just ... Small frame build completed for the misses.

    Small frame build completed for the misses. I am still waiting for a part for my XL frame.
    On a side note I am 6'1" and went with the XL frame. I started riding XL frames this year and feel more comfortable on them. I will give a ride report when I get my XL up and running. I have found the XL frames more stable for me.
    The small frame will be road for the first time today.



















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  60. #860
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    Anybody know if they have addressed the chainstay clearance on the new frames ?

  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by wasfast View Post
    Anybody know if they have addressed the chainstay clearance on the new frames ?
    Well fitting 180mm cranks is still problematic based on my experience (E Thirteen XCs are a fail - they clear in the shed but the clearance is too limited (IMO) for the trail.

    Is this what you meant?

  62. #862
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    Quote Originally Posted by n plus one View Post
    Well fitting 180mm cranks is still problematic based on my experience (E Thirteen XCs are a fail - they clear in the shed but the clearance is too limited (IMO) for the trail.

    Is this what you meant?
    Yes, exactly. I had problems with two different cranks in 175mm on the first gen frame.
    Just wondering if they had made a change to the extreme width of the chainstays on the new models. Thanks.

  63. #863
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    Quote Originally Posted by wasfast View Post
    Yes, exactly. I had problems with two different cranks in 175mm on the first gen frame.
    Just wondering if they had made a change to the extreme width of the chainstays on the new models. Thanks.
    The cranks on my Jabber are 180mm Stylo's. Should I assume that I'll have to repalce them with 170-175mm versions of themselves? I also run a 34t ring, will that clear?

    Thanks!

  64. #864
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    In order for my E13's (175mm) to work, I had to place the wavy washer and thin spacers on the drive side to get the correct clearance.

    My 175mm Stylos fit fine. I'm not sure about 180mm, but I don't recall being concerned about clearance when I had the 175's on.

    I also have a Rotor ring (36t at the widest) on and it fits.

  65. #865
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    New rubber.

    Bonty 29-4's


  66. #866
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logover View Post
    ....


    Love that purple!
    Trailwrecker at large

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    konahonzo

  68. #868
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    dubthang - how do you like the steering and BB height with the Niner fork? This is how I'm planning my build, if I for for a Nimble 9...

  69. #869
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    Quote Originally Posted by classrc View Post
    dubthang - how do you like the steering and BB height with the Niner fork? This is how I'm planning my build, if I for for a Nimble 9...
    It rides really nice. The position is more upright than what I rode before, but I felt it to be very comfortable and easy to adapt too.

    I do get a little bit of front wheel flop in super tight turns (often ones with berms designed for 26ers.) My turning style has changed from my last bike since the front is out farther, and the rear is tucked in under me. I just enter and exit slightly different. It's hard to explain, but after a couple of swithcbacks, it'll become clear to you. Otherwise, the steering is great for everything else, very stable.

    The bb height is a little bit low, but the lower cg is a nice trade off. Large logs, rocks, etc take a little more forethought when going over them so that I don't smash into them. I am getting better at not rock striking. Since I ride ss, I have found myself in situations where I have to pedal even though I know I may strike. Sometimes ratcheting just doesn't work.

  70. #870
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    Finally got my white N9 completed last night.
    I built it up 1x9 for the next few months but plan to go SS after.
    Tomorrow will be the maiden voyage and it should be nice and muddy out.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1332652371.675592.jpg  

    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1332652393.460733.jpg  


  71. #871
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    Got a couple questions for you Nimble 9 owners. I'm interested in this frame, atleast something with slacker geo than my current bike (voodoo zaka, 72 ha, 17.9" cs) - which is good but not the most confidence inspiring on the descents.

    One thing I don't like about my current ride is the height of the handlebars in relation to the seat position. Handlebars feel really high even with only a single spacer between the stem and headset cap. I don't like this feeling. Obviously, I can change the stem to negative rise, but curious how you all have yours set up. How high are the bars on your large frames - from the ground or in relation to your seat position? I typically ride with my seat high to get full leg extension when seated, and never change the position even when heading down gnarly descents. The bars on my bike with a 0 rise stem and a flat bars with a 100mm fork unsagged are higher than my girlfriends gary fisher hifi pro with 120 mm fork unsagged.... I do plan to keep the 100mm fork for a nimble build, and if I find it's not enough then upgrading to a 120. It's a manitou minute 29 absolute+ with 20mm TA, which I think is a great fork for the price of admission.

    What are some confirmed cranks that work fine in 2x mode for this frame? I have fsa 386 cranks right now, running 40x27. I think I'd like something more in the range of 36x24. How's heel clearance with 175's? The stays look monsterous, which is great for tire clearance, but maybe not for your ankles? Or maybe just a bit of adjustment, my cross bike has wide chainstays and it only took a couple rides to get used to it and my ankles have touched the stays since.

    Also, I know all say climbing is fine with these, but how steep are the grades your climbing? I need to maintain good climbing abilities if I were to go for a new frame, definitely needs to climb like a goat up STEEP bits with roots and rocks. I love fast descents but gotta get to the top first.

    I ride in VT almost entirely, and enjoy all types of trails - I'm not a jumper though. Rarely get more than a couple feet of air. But I do love very technical trails with rock gardens, spines, roots, berms, fast switchbacks in both directions. Appreciate any opinions on this because this frame looks awesome, and I've been wanting to try these newer style geo 29ers (like YS, banshee paradox, transition trans am...any others not custom?)

  72. #872
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    Regarding getting the height down - I am 6'2" and ride the size large. Since this is my first 29er I did have some struggles getting the front of the bike to feel right and most of that had to do with the front starting out too high, and maybe having too much weight over the front. I originally had a 90 mm stem angled up at 6 degrees and a 120 mm fork. This definitely made things too high and it was obvious that was the problem. I used the one fork spacer I had to lower the travel 15 mm, and also turned the stem to angle down. This felt better but for some reason I felt like the bike then had even more wheel flop despite being less slack. I eventually realized that having the stem upside down actually moves the bars forward (about 7 mm in my case) effectively feeling like a longer stem. It's worth noting that my bars have 8 degree sweep and no rise, whereas bars that I'm used to have a 9 degree sweep and 4 degrees of rise, which is easy to overlook but was making about a 8 mm difference in reach as well. The sum of these changes was about a 16 mm longer effective reach than my normal setup of stem and bars. So I went and bought some nylon washers and created another 12 mm or so of ghetto fork travel spacers, and I bought an 80 mm stem. After lowering the fork even more, and ending up with an axle to crown of 500 mm, I put the 80 mm stem on and it felt much, much better. With or without a spacer under the stem (which was now angled up) it felt good and so I knew I had finally gotten the right height and reach. I ended up only using a very small stem spacer (1.5mm).

    In regards to climbing, well this is a hardtail so efficiency is a nonpoint imo. As far as geometry goes the chainstays are adjustable so even though part of the idea is to have them short, its not like they have to be. You could adjust them to be longer if you wanted the bike to do steep, seated climbs better. Even when they're slammed forward you're looking at a chainstay length about the same as a normal 26er, so if you didn't get front wheel lift on your 26ers, then you can definitely avoid it on this frame. The second thing working in your favor is the pretty low bottom bracket height. This makes your center of gravity low which fights the tendency to go over the bars OR have front end lift up hills.

  73. #873
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    Thanks Mutantclover! Great info!

  74. #874
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    Higher bars are going to happen. The longer head tube adds height. My bars are about 1.5 - 2" higher than my last bike. It's not that big a deal for me as I found I adapted quickly to the new riding position. I find it more critical that I keep my back in a certain range to prevent lower back pain. Climbing hills with a slightly higher front end is not impossible. This bike climbs well, and on the real steep stuff, I just have to get a little closer to the front end. I ride Maine, NH, VT, NY, MA, etc. and this frame is great around here. I'm sure you'll enjoy it too.

  75. #875
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    Quick question- What dropouts ship with the frames? I'll be running SS and want to know if I need to order the SS one along with the frame...

  76. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattgVT View Post
    Got a couple questions for you Nimble 9 owners. I'm interested in this frame, atleast something with slacker geo than my current bike (voodoo zaka, 72 ha, 17.9" cs) - which is good but not the most confidence inspiring on the descents.

    One thing I don't like about my current ride is the height of the handlebars in relation to the seat position. Handlebars feel really high even with only a single spacer between the stem and headset cap. I don't like this feeling. Obviously, I can change the stem to negative rise, but curious how you all have yours set up. How high are the bars on your large frames - from the ground or in relation to your seat position? I typically ride with my seat high to get full leg extension when seated, and never change the position even when heading down gnarly descents. The bars on my bike with a 0 rise stem and a flat bars with a 100mm fork unsagged are higher than my girlfriends gary fisher hifi pro with 120 mm fork unsagged.... I do plan to keep the 100mm fork for a nimble build, and if I find it's not enough then upgrading to a 120. It's a manitou minute 29 absolute+ with 20mm TA, which I think is a great fork for the price of admission.

    What are some confirmed cranks that work fine in 2x mode for this frame? I have fsa 386 cranks right now, running 40x27. I think I'd like something more in the range of 36x24. How's heel clearance with 175's? The stays look monsterous, which is great for tire clearance, but maybe not for your ankles? Or maybe just a bit of adjustment, my cross bike has wide chainstays and it only took a couple rides to get used to it and my ankles have touched the stays since.

    Also, I know all say climbing is fine with these, but how steep are the grades your climbing? I need to maintain good climbing abilities if I were to go for a new frame, definitely needs to climb like a goat up STEEP bits with roots and rocks. I love fast descents but gotta get to the top first.

    I ride in VT almost entirely, and enjoy all types of trails - I'm not a jumper though. Rarely get more than a couple feet of air. But I do love very technical trails with rock gardens, spines, roots, berms, fast switchbacks in both directions. Appreciate any opinions on this because this frame looks awesome, and I've been wanting to try these newer style geo 29ers (like YS, banshee paradox, transition trans am...any others not custom?)
    You can see a pic of my bike back in this thread. The cockpit set-up came out really good for me.

    This past week me and some buds played hooky and rode at 2-Mile Run Park near Franklin(?), PA. The one guy knows the place like his backyard so we pretty much rode everything and improvised some crazy lines.

    They challenged me to ride a short, steep climb (on my N9) with a double log in the middle. Not only did I NOT loop out of the climb, I made the double log and cleaned it most triumphantly! Got myself a Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout for the effort.

    The bike climbs great! And this is comparing to my previous bike which had been set up low in the front (XC style).

    The bike also pops pretty nicely off small launches like roots, rocks, curbs, etc...

    I did notice that I lost <1/4" in BB height from the old bike, but it is not a show stopper. I am not hitting pedals. I am hitting the 44T chainring on more logs than usual - but just by that <1/4". It's more of a scuff than a hit. It's pretty surprising that a person can "measure" a log by eye and compare it accurately to the height of something that they can't even see, but I know I've ridden that place pretty clean in the past and this time I was getting a lot of those "scuffs".

    btw - 30" bars are just too wide. I lopped off 3/4" from each side after all the trees I hit and the knuckle bashing I received. No falls, though. Will try again @ 28.5".

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  77. #877
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    Quote Originally Posted by classrc View Post
    What dropouts ship with the frames?
    They ship with one set that works for both geared and SS.

  78. #878
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    I've heard of potential issues with chainring clearance... Any issues fitting a 34t ring with bash guard on a normal SRAM/Truvative crankset on the Nimble?

    Thanks again. I'll eventually run out of questions

  79. #879
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    Quote Originally Posted by classrc View Post
    I've heard of potential issues with chainring clearance... Any issues fitting a 34t ring with bash guard on a normal SRAM/Truvative crankset on the Nimble?

    Thanks again. I'll eventually run out of questions
    No.

    On the page before this one, there is a pic of my bike with a Rotor ring on it. The ring is on the inside of the crank arms, and shown at its widest (approx. 36 tooth.) I had this same ring mounted on a Stylo crank too.

  80. #880
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    Green build is done.

    First ride impressions I ran a 100mm fork which I am now running a 110mm which more travel is better on the downhills. Bike is very nimble as the name and is taking some getting used to from riding my Turner Sultan. Doing a wheele is amazingly easy and the steel ride is wonderful (First steel bike). Climbing in Pisgah seemed no harder than my 26er Turner flux and even easier. The bike wants to jump like others have said and screams to go downhill. Amazing part my chain stay is shorter than my flux and so is the wheel base. I find myself turning the bike later than I need to but this is just a riding adjustment and once I dial it in should be great! Weight build is heavy for what I was expecting but I am running heavy rims and tires for training purposes and look forward to trying some lighter ones. My breaks will be swapped out soon with avid due to the Maguras not having enough stopping power. And the saddle is also on the hefty side. So I could see this bike shaving off a couple pounds possibly. Overall I am loving this bike and don't have any regrets.

    Also the purple bike posted earlier is my wife's first 29er. Her impressions are very similar and is also loving the bike.

















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  81. #881
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    wheel help

    Hey SS builders, how is your rear hub configured to accommodate the horizontal rear dropouts, can you buy a wheel with a 135 skewer or is something else?

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by eworth781 View Post
    Hey SS builders, how is your rear hub configured to accommodate the horizontal rear dropouts, can you buy a wheel with a 135 skewer or is something else?
    Since I don't plan on riding geared, and got a good deal on the set, I'm using a SS specific Chris King bolt-on.
    However, you can use any 135mm rear hub, QR or bolt-on.
    In fact, you'll probably be able to find a better deal on a used multi-speed rear hub, and just use a SS cog spaced appropriately.

    Los
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  83. #883
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    Quote Originally Posted by eworth781 View Post
    Hey SS builders, how is your rear hub configured to accommodate the horizontal rear dropouts, can you buy a wheel with a 135 skewer or is something else?
    They aren't really horizontal dropouts - like you find on the surly karate monkey - they are sliding dropouts. The dropout is vertical like a normal geared frame, but the entire dropout assembly moves horizontally with the brake mount. Youd be fine running a normal qr skewer in that.

  84. #884
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    Quote Originally Posted by ferros View Post
    Finally got my white N9 completed last night.
    I built it up 1x9 for the next few months but plan to go SS after.
    Tomorrow will be the maiden voyage and it should be nice and muddy out.
    Can you take a picture of the rear tire clearance near the bottom bracket?

  85. #885
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    [QUOTE=Logover;9154162]First ride impressions I ran a 100mm fork which I am now running a 110mm which more travel is better on the downhills. Bike is very nimble as the name and is taking some getting used to from riding my Turner Sultan. Doing a wheele is amazingly easy and the steel ride is wonderful (First steel bike). Climbing in Pisgah seemed no harder than my 26er Turner flux and even easier. The bike wants to jump like others have said and screams to go downhill. Amazing part my chain stay is shorter than my flux and so is the wheel base. I find myself turning the bike later than I need to but this is just a riding adjustment and once I dial it in should be great! Weight build is heavy for what I was expecting but I am running heavy rims and tires for training purposes and look forward to trying some lighter ones. My breaks will be swapped out soon with avid due to the Maguras not having enough stopping power. And the saddle is also on the hefty side. So I could see this bike shaving off a couple pounds possibly. Overall I am loving this bike and don't have any regrets.

    Also the purple bike posted earlier is my wife's first 29er. Her impressions are very similar and is also loving the bike.

















    [/QUOTE

    I live in Asheville, and would love a chance to sit on that frame. Been trying to decide between Large and XL. Which shop did you order your frame through?

  86. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcusSommers View Post
    I live in Asheville, and would love a chance to sit on that frame. Been trying to decide between Large and XL. Which shop did you order your frame through?
    Are you getting a Nimble and a Raijin?
    Cuz I'm jealous if you are... I had to choose.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  87. #887
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    Just a heads up. My bb on my E13 crankset has developed some slop in it. This is allowing for slight contact between my d/s crank arm and chain stay, and my Rotor ring and chain stay. Hoping to throw another spacer on it to take up the slack, and fix the issue. Will update later.

  88. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron1017 View Post
    Can you take a picture of the rear tire clearance near the bottom bracket?
    Here you go. Rear tire is a Specialized Purgatory 2.2.
    Last edited by ferros; 04-12-2012 at 07:44 AM.

  89. #889
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    Are you getting a Nimble and a Raijin?
    Cuz I'm jealous if you are... I had to choose.

    Pm'ed you.

  90. #890
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    That green is FRESH!

  91. #891
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    selling my medium lime green nimble 9, pm if interested. super light use.

    edit: Canfield Nimble 9 Medium Lime Green frame - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories
    Last edited by nativeson; 04-05-2012 at 09:54 AM. Reason: bought a classified ad

  92. #892
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    Why, may I ask?

  93. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneArm View Post
    Why, may I ask?
    He must be insane!!

  94. #894
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    Made some updates to my Nimble 9 so I figured I post some updated pics.

    As playful as the bike was before it is even more so now.






  95. #895
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    ... and if we just ...

    Wrekless - that purple looks awesome! I'm glad I chose that color now. According to UPS, my large one is due to be delivered on Wednesday! It's like x-mas all over again...

  96. #896
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    Really nice pictures Wreckless.

    What fork is that?
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  97. #897
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    classrc, Thanks, It gets worse before it gets better. I pre-ordered mine and had to wait 5 killer weeks.


    OHM, Thanks, Its a MonoCog fork 474mm A2C and 39mm offset.

  98. #898
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    Good lookin' ride. I'm running mine with a 32x22 (I know, I'm weak) for the hills around here and my sliders are mid way. Is there a way to get them more forward to have shorter stays? 1/2 link? I'm running a KMC. Thanks.

  99. #899
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneArm View Post
    Good lookin' ride. I'm running mine with a 32x22 (I know, I'm weak) for the hills around here and my sliders are mid way. Is there a way to get them more forward to have shorter stays? 1/2 link? I'm running a KMC. Thanks.
    I'm running 32x18 with a half link and the sliders slammed forward. I'm using a Sram PC850 chain with a KMC half link. I am not real confident in the half link but it has held up ok for a few rides.

  100. #900
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    Thanks everyone, this thread has been really helpful deciding on and choosing parts to build my recently ordered N9. Frame and parts are all paid for and in transit. Pictures to come.

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