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  1. #1426
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    Got me used N9 and I want to run my White Industries square taper crankset. The 114mm spindle I have on there now is too small. Has anyone ran the WI 121 spindle or do I need to move to something longer? Previous post on page 2 says I need the 122mm. If that is the case then I would have to get a heavy shimano BB or a Phil Wood, unless someone can recommend another brand I am missing.

    thanks

  2. #1427
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    Snow? Nimble don't care.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-img_8966.jpg  


  3. #1428
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    Nice, dfiler!

  4. #1429
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pslide View Post
    I moved back to Ohio 2 years ago and finally succumbed to building a hardtail that would suit the (lack of) terrain around here. Did a lot of research and the Nimble 9 ticked the most boxes. What a good choice - I love the short stays, not-too-harsh-ride, and quick handling of this thing.

    This is my first ever hardtail, so it's taking a little while to adjust my technique to smooth out the rough stuff...I'm used to a rear damper handling that job while my legs are just powering up the technical climbs.

    Wanted to make it a little special so I did the custom graphics...Aspen trunks for fork legs and Aspen leaves around the headtube. Hey, you can always dream your out West...


    Nimble_9_0003 by a.r.neumann, on Flickr


    N9 Front by a.r.neumann, on Flickr


    Nimble_9_0006 by a.r.neumann, on Flickr

    Since I took these pictures I've added a Bling Ring and some chunkier tires for the winter months...Vredestein Black Panther Extremes. With a name like that, you know they kick @ss.
    Not usually an orange fan but I love this orange and this bike! Great choice for brown for the accents. Sweet ride

  5. #1430
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pslide View Post
    I moved back to Ohio 2 years ago and finally succumbed to building a hardtail that would suit the (lack of) terrain around here. Did a lot of research and the Nimble 9 ticked the most boxes. What a good choice - I love the short stays, not-too-harsh-ride, and quick handling of this thing.

    This is my first ever hardtail, so it's taking a little while to adjust my technique to smooth out the rough stuff...I'm used to a rear damper handling that job while my legs are just powering up the technical climbs.

    Wanted to make it a little special so I did the custom graphics...Aspen trunks for fork legs and Aspen leaves around the headtube. Hey, you can always dream your out West...


    Nimble_9_0003 by a.r.neumann, on Flickr


    N9 Front by a.r.neumann, on Flickr


    Nimble_9_0006 by a.r.neumann, on Flickr

    Since I took these pictures I've added a Bling Ring and some chunkier tires for the winter months...Vredestein Black Panther Extremes. With a name like that, you know they kick @ss.
    Nice.

    Good for Ohio? Then It would be great fun in Onterrible.
    Last edited by Enduramil; 01-03-2013 at 12:04 PM.
    If you hurt in your efforts and suffer painful dings. Then you are doing it right.

  6. #1431
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    From personal experience I wouldn't touch a used N9 frame because they WILL break, well eventually anyway. The standard 1 1/8 headtube is no match for a 120mm fork and cracks will appear at the juncture of the downtube and headtube. Canfield does offer a 'lifetime crash replacement' but it will still cost $450 to get new frame. Be patient and wait for the re-designed version, it's more comforting to know that they've worked out the bugs while keeping that magical geometry that keeps me wanting for more.

  7. #1432
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    My last four downhill bikes, with 8" forks, have all had the same 1-1/8" head tube as the nimble9.

    Any bike may or may not be weak, but it has absolutely nothing to do with having a 1-1/8" head tube.

  8. #1433
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    Quote Originally Posted by dakine m3 View Post
    From personal experience I wouldn't touch a used N9 frame because they WILL break, well eventually anyway. The standard 1 1/8 headtube is no match for a 120mm fork and cracks will appear at the juncture of the downtube and headtube. Canfield does offer a 'lifetime crash replacement' but it will still cost $450 to get new frame. Be patient and wait for the re-designed version, it's more comforting to know that they've worked out the bugs while keeping that magical geometry that keeps me wanting for more.
    This is simply not true. I'm not trying to protect Canfield here, but all manufacturers. A tapered (or straight 1.5") head tube will provide more front end stiffness, but it does not prevent faulty frame design. Some frames from some builders will crack, and others will not. It has way more to do with proper welding, gusset design and placement, and tubing strength and juncture than it does with head tube diameter.

  9. #1434
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    To clarify, larger head tubes were not introduced to make frames stronger. Motorcycles weigh hundreds of pounds but are fine with small diameter head/steer tubes. Also note that downhill forks are pretty much all 1-1/8" and are plenty strong. The same is true for dirt jumpers, they experience far greater forces but are just fine with 1-1/8".

    The increased area of the weld joint supplied by a larger head tube can just as easily be accomplished with a tiny gusset. Also, if worried about tube diameter, note that the top and down tubes are small diameter as well.

    As dubthang pointed out, strength will be determined by proper welding, gusseting, and tube specifications.

  10. #1435
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    I stand corrected on that, moreover, it's the inherent frame design that led to the failure. With that said, I will be repairing the frame and perhaps adding a gusset, let's see...besides a replacement frame is 'only' $450 with their lifetime crash warranty replacement. I figure I've got nothing to lose because I will end up riding this frame no matter what. Keep you guys posted with pics.

  11. #1436
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    Do you know what caused the failure?

    There a number of possible reasons: bad welding, too thin of tubing, material defect, too small of joint between frame components, damage while in use, and any combination of these. If it were much older, material deterioration could be added to the list. Any other possibilities?

    Is there something that leads you to believe it was bad design and not any of the other possibilities?

    Note that most other bikes in this category are of the same design. The Honzo and TransAM also have no side gusseting at the headtube. Just like the nimble9, they too only have a small gusset under the top tube. This is pretty typical of steel frames.

  12. #1437
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Do you know what caused the failure?

    There a number of possible reasons: bad welding, too thin of tubing, material defect, too small of joint between frame components, damage while in use, and any combination of these. If it were much older, material deterioration could be added to the list. Any other possibilities?

    Is there something that leads you to believe it was bad design and not any of the other possibilities?

    Note that most other bikes in this category are of the same design. The Honzo and TransAM also have no side gusseting at the headtube. Just like the nimble9, they too only have a small gusset under the top tube. This is pretty typical of steel frames.
    But both come with a 44mm headtube.

  13. #1438
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    The frame failure was a result of a flawed design compounded with sub par construction methods. Had they overbuilt this area with say a 44 mm headtube then I'd be certain there would be less broken Nimble 9s. I personally know another local guy who suffered the same disaster so I'm sure there are several more out there besides the ones who have posted on this forum.
    .

  14. #1439
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    Would you be willing to share the details of the failure?

    I can understand the where you're coming from after having the frame buckle underneath you. Yet I don't think the diagnosis and solution is simply headtube diameter.

    Take heart though, rumor has it that the new nimble will be sporting a larger headtube. I'm going to love the fork options that provides.

  15. #1440
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    A picture is worth a thousand words. Anybody have pics of any broken Nimble frames?

  16. #1441
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    A picture is worth a thousand words. Anybody have pics of any broken Nimble frames?
    This guy broke 2 Nimbles. And he's no clyde either.

    Not having much lucks on mountain bike frames...

  17. #1442
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    This guy broke 2 Nimbles. And he's no clyde either.

    Not having much lucks on mountain bike frames...
    Also note that he has broken 4 frames in the past 3 years.

  18. #1443
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    Breakages aside, Can I join....

    .....The Heard? Tribe? Pack?
    After lurking here for a while I finally pulled the trigger on one of the few remaining 2012ís, XL bone white. Debated with Sean from Canfield a bit on one of these or waiting for the 2013ís. Besides the larger diameter head tube it sounds like the 2013ís will be burlier, stiffer, and a bit heavier, more Honzo-like. For my needs, XC/trail 100 mm fork I think the current model will be perfect, besides, most all of my Vassago Bandersnatch parts will transfer over nicely.
    Canít wait to try something really different from the Vassago, and with running all the same parts the comparison between the frame geoís alone should be pretty unbiased.

    N9, the anti-bandersnatch
    White vs. Black
    Short and slack vs. long and steep
    Nimble vs. wetcat
    Steel vs steel. Oh wait, thatís the same

  19. #1444
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Also note that he has broken 4 frames in the past 3 years.
    Scott forty G. rides far more and far harder than most. Check his latest post and you will see why he breaks frames, that happens for monster riders, fact of life, part of the game.
    Braaaaaap Braaaaap on Ellie Lane
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  20. #1445
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    Quote Originally Posted by slocaus View Post
    Scott forty G. rides far more and far harder than most. Check his latest post and you will see why he breaks frames, that happens for monster riders, fact of life, part of the game.
    I would not want to be any piece of his gear.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
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  21. #1446
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    here is my black knight

    Had a first "true" ride on it.
    The last time i rode a h.t was 2003.
    Took it through some technical single tracks.
    I can fairly say it's o.k, but i don't think it's because of the bike.
    I guess i'll need to get use to the h.t idea again?!
    It's a 2nd hand frame with a new reba fork and all kind of components i had in store.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-nimble9-1st.jpg  


  22. #1447
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    Crankset help

    Am I SOL with this crank? It is an Origin 8 double nine speed. I need to add an extra 1.5 ml (4 mm total now) spacer to the drive side to get the 40t chainring to clear the chainstay. When I do this the crank starts to bind when I torque down the crankbolt. Arg!!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-img_2122.jpg  


  23. #1448
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    I'm running a 22/36 on a Shimano slx triple crank and with 1 spacer the 36t barley clears. A buddy of mine tried to set up his Yelli with a sram x9 26/39 and with 2 spacer it still wouldn't clear. I'm not sure if both bikes are the same with chainring clearance but I suspect they're close. I've searched the net and found a few people who claim to be running 26/39 on the nimble successfully. If you find a combo that works for you let us know.

  24. #1449
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    Darn

    I thought these were fine for a 2X10. So is everybody running them as single speeds or 1X10's?

  25. #1450
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    Single speed and 1x9 depending on how long the ride is. I have been fighting off the urge to go 1x11 to check it out good thing I lock up my credit cards.

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