Please tell me that 180mm crankarms will fit the Nimble 9. Please...
This is turning out to be the perfect frame I have been looking for; electric blue, super short chainstays, sliding dropouts, and the ability to tuck a 2.4 Ardent with room to spare.
180XT cranks fit fine. I never hit my heel either. Just finished a long steepish climb and steep rocky and rooty decent. The bike rocks with 120 up front. Lance sent a couple emails stressing that I try it at 120 and he is right, IMHO. My ride was about 3.5 hours and had a bit of everything. I am an xc type dh'r. 2.4 ardent will fit for sure. So much goodness!
Can someone with a Large measure the ETT? The Nimble 9 web page says 24.5", but the geometry diagram says 24.2". Guessing that the geo diagram is correct, but it would be nice to get confirmation.
I think my large ett measured approx. alittle under 24" or right at it. I don't have the plumb line etc. so I did it w/ tape measure and eyeballing it.
Feels longer than my Voodoo Soukri which is supposed to be 24".
Can someone with a Large measure the ETT? The Nimble 9 web page says 24.5", but the geometry diagram says 24.2". Guessing that the geo diagram is correct, but it would be nice to get confirmation.
since ETT is measured parallel to the ground, the A-C of the fork affects it, even though the geo diagrams don't reflect that.
Originally Posted by pvd
Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
hmmmm, I did not know that? Does a longer A/C make the ett longer?
Yes.
Look at the Canfield geo drawings. With the different A-C's they show different axle heights. In reality the axle height is the same and the head tube moves up; so does the BB-- rotated about the rear axle. That slackens the seat tube angle and makes the ETT line intersect the seat tube (in this case 'effective' seat tube) further back. Showing geo for different forks is pretty ambitious. They've done about as good a job as can be done without doing whole new drawings for each A-C, which would be unnecessarily cumbersome.
Originally Posted by pvd
Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
Ha, I just got done building the blue one yesterday evening, but will ride it tonight! I also put together a ss Nimble and rode it this past weekend and it is actually stiffer verticaly than I thought it would be but not as bad as the Yelli. So, i would say that for everyday trail riding I like the Nimble better; both are awesome frames though which is why I'm holding onto my Yelli
Back in San Antonio, got a chance to ride the N9 on one of the rocky, slow speed, technical trails we have here. There were a couple of times that its "differentness" from the bikes I've ridden before threw me off of my game, so I didn't clean everything. But overall, I was able to get myself out of some sketch situations better than before. The shorter wheelbase makes riding certain obstacles, well, different.
All in all, I am still liking this bike more and more every time I ride it.
Back in San Antonio, got a chance to ride the N9 on one of the rocky, slow speed, technical trails we have here. There were a couple of times that its "differentness" from the bikes I've ridden before threw me off of my game, so I didn't clean everything. But overall, I was able to get myself out of some sketch situations better than before. The shorter wheelbase makes riding certain obstacles, well, different.
All in all, I am still liking this bike more and more every time I ride it.
Los
What kind of differentness? I have a Surly Karate Monkey with a Vassago Odis fork. Before the Odis, I had a Monkey fork. The original fork/frame combination made for a brutal ride and often times, I would have to brake for rough rooty rocky sections. The curved seatstays on the N9 should be a much more forgiving ride. Combined with a Walt fork, this will be a fantastic rigid bike.
What kind of differentness? I have a Surly Karate Monkey with a Vassago Odis fork. Before the Odis, I had a Monkey fork. The original fork/frame combination made for a brutal ride and often times, I would have to brake for rough rooty rocky sections. The curved seatstays on the N9 should be a much more forgiving ride. Combined with a Walt fork, this will be a fantastic rigid bike.
Most of that difference in the rocks comes from the shorter wheelbase and lower BB. There are a few sections where I'd find the rear wheel dropping in a hole earlier than what I became used to on the Unit. No big deal, I'll totally get used to it soon, but for the first time it was enough to throw off my rhythm and momentum.
I don't really think the curved stays do much for compliance, honestly. Those are some beefy tubes, man. And one of the things that make this bike so much fun to ride also makes it a bit less comfy- that rear wheel is right under your butt.
You're definitely gonna like the Walt fork more, and I think you'll have a great time on the N9.
If you are looking for more give, go with a ti seatpost. With the actual angle of the post, you'll get a good amount of flex.
Most of that difference in the rocks comes from the shorter wheelbase and lower BB. There are a few sections where I'd find the rear wheel dropping in a hole earlier than what I became used to on the Unit. No big deal, I'll totally get used to it soon, but for the first time it was enough to throw off my rhythm and momentum.
I don't really think the curved stays do much for compliance, honestly. Those are some beefy tubes, man. And one of the things that make this bike so much fun to ride also makes it a bit less comfy- that rear wheel is right under your butt.
You're definitely gonna like the Walt fork more, and I think you'll have a great time on the N9.
If you are looking for more give, go with a ti seatpost. With the actual angle of the post, you'll get a good amount of flex.
Los
Large volume tires are going to make the rig plush. What tires are you guys running?
I'm starting to build up my medium. Enabler fork with Larry 3.8 on 47mm Trialtech rim. The b.b. height looks like 11.5" with this setup. 70 degree head angle setup like this. In the back I have a 2.4" Racing Ralph, good clearance despite slammed forward dropouts.
Can't wait to ride it! Hopefully this weekend.
Gotta bump this post, due to the awesomeness of the build. I want to see how this one turns out!
I second the 'different' feeling when riding tech areas. The rear wheel hooks up quick which removes the slight waiting game on my Peace. When entering a rock garden for example, I'd just pick a line, loft the front end, and pedal into it. I would be in the middle of the thing way quicker than on my old Peace. I can really feel the rear wheel dig in, and plow into the tech areas. That wheel is right under me which makes for a much more responsive ride.