• 10-16-2011
    EVERYUSERNAMEISTAKEN
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    What bash you running on those SLX cranks? I kinda like it.

    It came off of a Truvativ Stylo 1.1 crankset that I have.
  • 10-18-2011
    sslos
    Update:
    I am happier with this bike every time I ride it.
    I changed out my cranks twice now, and very pleased with the newest set up. The White Industries crank required a 122mm BB, which was really flexy- to the point of hitting the chainstay when I'd crank hard enough.
    Next, I tried the Ritchey WCS cranks off of my Pugsley. Stiffer, but I had to space the ISIS BB over a bit to the drive side to clear the chainstay under hard efforts (again.)
    Both of those were 170mm. I've been dialing in my wife's position on her bike, and noticed her XTs are 175mm, which are too long for her leg length, so I traded her.
    Yesterday, I rode Government Canyon, a rocky, steep local trail. The increased stiffness was noticeable, and with the sustained, all-out effort climbs, I think I'm liking the gained leverage of the additional whopping 5mm of crank length.
    I didn't notice an increase in pedal strikes, and had no problem staying on top of the cranks.
    This was probably the most technically difficult climbing and descending I've done on the N9 to date. Not the steepest, and it IS Texas so the climbs and descents aren't super long, but it's tough on the single speed. I've punctured my rear tire (sliced the sidewall twice, punched through the tread once,) on the last three rides there...on the climbs!
    I was thinking, as I was patching my AKA, that this bike felt like it was made for this kind of riding. Then I remembered thinking the same thing the first time I took it on our extended-rockgarden chunkfest, and on the fast, swoopy waterbar laden Boise trails, and the alpine Bogus trails...
    Here's some pics from yesterday.




    Los
  • 10-19-2011
    WRX-Rob
    I am on my 2nd set of cranks as well. The XTR 960's rubbed the stays when I was really pushing it up a hill. That was with two spacers on the drive side. it would clear when not flexing though. I went back to the XT crank I had on it originally and everything is back to normal with only one spacer. Definitely something to watch out for if you are building this and don't have a couple cranksets in the garage. I'm considering getting a Shimano Hone for this bike. Steel pedal inserts and spindle seem like exactly what this bike deserves. Plus my wife needs her XT back :rolleyes:
  • 10-19-2011
    rasse1977
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by WRX-Rob View Post
    The XTR 960's rubbed the stays when I was really pushing it up a hill. That was with two spacers on the drive side. it would clear when not flexing though. I went back to the XT crank I had on it originally and everything is back to normal with only one spacer.

    Good to know I'm not the only one with cranks rubbing the stays. I have the same problem you mention with my XTR 970's...

    I have my cranks mounted with one spacer on the drive side (like always) and the distance between the crank arms and the stays are are not the same on each side. I have like 3,5 mm on the drive side and 6 mm on the non-drive side.

    I've ordered some 0,7 mm spacers so I can get the cranks centered but from your experience the crank arm still hit the stays with 5 mm spacers installed...:madman:

    I'm not a heavy rider, only around 165 lbs so the frame and cranks should be plenty stiff for my weight....a little annoying.

    Other than that it's a great frame.
  • 10-19-2011
    p nut
    Wait, your CRANKS hit the stays??? I've got XT's (M760) with one spacer on the drive side and never had issues. Heel strike every once in a while.
  • 10-19-2011
    WRX-Rob
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by p nut View Post
    Wait, your CRANKS hit the stays??? I've got XT's (M760) with one spacer on the drive side and never had issues. Heel strike every once in a while.

    Yes CRANKS. No issues with XT with only one spacer. XTR hit with two spacers.
  • 10-19-2011
    p nut
    Was the crank length the same on both of your cranks? Mine's the standard 175's.
  • 10-19-2011
    sslos
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by p nut View Post
    Was the crank length the same on both of your cranks? Mine's the standard 175's.

    The XTR M970 cranks (all XTR cranks, actually,) are lower profile than the XTs, which explains the discrepancy. Although it was challenging for me to finally stop using square taper cranks due to the width of the stays, everything else about this bike makes it so worthwhile!
    I would regularly hit the CS with the inside corner of the WI crank on the driveside while powering through to pull the front wheel up, even with 1cm of clearance. I have about 7mm with the XT, and Monday's ride required lots of wheelies up ledges, cranking hard to get up steep rock gardens, over big exposed roots and logs, you name it. No contact whatsoever.

    Los
  • 10-19-2011
    p nut
    Wow, didn't know those WI cranks (and ST bb) flexed that much.
  • 10-19-2011
    slocaus
    You guys are bumming me out on the square taper issue now. :(
  • 10-21-2011
    sslos
    Yeah, I really thought I'd stay with ST until I couldn't find them any more.
    My experiences lately have sold me on external BBs.

    Los
  • 10-21-2011
    random walk
    Does anyone know of a successful N9 build using 180mm cranks?
  • 10-21-2011
    cluster_tolerance
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by random walk View Post
    Does anyone know of a successful N9 build using 180mm cranks?

    Yup, I is. No problems at all, I have XT cranks with a spacer on the drive side. The fork is at 120mm and I doubt I'll go lower. I might just to see how it is but I am really enjoying the ride. No pedal strikes yet, I ride my X-bike fixt and I have just gotten used to having the pedals in the right place at the right time. Best riding production frame I have ever owned.
  • 10-21-2011
    random walk
    Thanks!
  • 10-22-2011
    EVERYUSERNAMEISTAKEN
    5 Attachment(s)
    Got out for a ride this morning. I am supposed to be packing up the house since we are preparing to move on Monday but I just couldn't help myself. The weather was perfect! Didn't get any action shots because I was riding solo but I did turn around to take a piss and then I saw my Nimble perched up on the top of a rock begging to roll it again. I think the Canfield Brothers may have gave these frames some "special" touches. I kept hearing the phrase MUST FIND MORE ROCK TO RIDE bouncing around in my head! Crazy! :p
  • 10-22-2011
    going29AZ
    Sweet pics! I've been riding my N9 exclusively for the last 3 weeks...took my Vassago rigid SS out this morning for the first time. It felt weird! Only did 10 miles on a pretty mellow but fun trail and was constantly thinking about my Nimble! Sorry Jabber, you might sitting out more often.
  • 10-24-2011
    pablo_goral
    My Black Devil
    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D356CjYNAt9Qmnbke8Uo2A?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0-Gw1qoqTCc/TqDg4cKl1sI/AAAAAAAAAGk/6ZMoZnS5owE/s144/DSCF0001.JPG" height="96" width="144" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">Od <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108543226678960504994/Nimble9?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Nimble 9</a></td></tr></table>
  • 10-25-2011
    flymybike
    Glad to see everyone is enjoying there Nimble 9's!

    With the fit issues of the XTR cranks, they have a narrower chainline than what we designed too. The N9 needs a 50mm chainline, XTR is 47.5 . Most road cranks are narrower but they don't need tire clearance like MTB. So with a 50-51 chainline (like most all 3 ring mtb cranks) you'll have proper crank clearance and can still fit large volume tires.

    Managing to fit large tires, have short chainstays and the option for a front derailler is a tall order. Something must give so alot of other companys just make it single ring only or skimp on tire clearance to achive the short chainstay. We wanted it all so fitting really tight chainline cranks was not on the list. (Sorry XTR fans ;) )
  • 10-25-2011
    sslos
    Meh...
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by flymybike View Post
    Glad to see everyone is enjoying there Nimble 9's!

    With the fit issues of the XTR cranks, they have a narrower chainline than what we designed too. The N9 needs a 50mm chainline, XTR is 47.5 . Most road cranks are narrower but they don't need tire clearance like MTB. So with a 50-51 chainline (like most all 3 ring mtb cranks) you'll have proper crank clearance and can still fit large volume tires.

    Managing to fit large tires, have short chainstays and the option for a front derailler is a tall order. Something must give so alot of other companys just make it single ring only or skimp on tire clearance to achive the short chainstay. We wanted it all so fitting really tight chainline cranks was not on the list. (Sorry XTR fans ;) )

    Not being able to run XTR cranks is definitely a worthwhile exchange for all the great things about these frames. Still loving the hell outta mine!

    Los
  • 10-25-2011
    ingluis
    Nimble 9 crushed the Pisgah gnar for 5 straight days, but didn't like the flying rocks too much, sadness.

  • 10-25-2011
    p nut
    I might have to 3M my downtube.
  • 10-25-2011
    92gli
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    Nimble 9 crushed the Pisgah gnar for 5 straight days, but didn't like the flying rocks too much, sadness.

    Look on the bright side. At least it wasn't a $2,000+ custom. Right ? ;)
  • 10-25-2011
    slocaus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by p nut View Post
    I might have to 3M my downtube.

    I thought GITD was nuke proof too? :D
  • 10-25-2011
    Ryan G.
    Are people using the cable guides for their der cables or disc brake lines? Running a 1x9 through cable guides right now and will zip tie the disc brake lines
  • 10-25-2011
    p nut
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by slocaus View Post
    I thought GITD was nuke proof too? :D

    Only in the dark. :D

    While you're on the net, might as well head over to Canfield and place an order for that über-cool green frame. With all this lurking in this thread, you're bound to buy one anyway.
  • 10-25-2011
    sslos
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    Nimble 9 crushed the Pisgah gnar for 5 straight days, but didn't like the flying rocks too much, sadness.

    Dang, yo!
    How big is that dent?

    Los
  • 10-25-2011
    ingluis
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sslos View Post
    Dang, yo!
    How big is that dent?

    Los

    It's about 1 square inch... I sanded the area today, didn't see any obvious cracks! Good ole 4130, I sprayed a little clear coat so I can monitor it.

    Set it up for local riding, 32x17 with a half link, dropouts are slammed! ;)
  • 10-25-2011
    sslos
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    It's about 1 square inch... I sanded the area today, didn't see any obvious cracks! Good ole 4130, I sprayed a little clear coat so I can monitor it.

    Set it up for local riding, 32x17 with a half link, dropouts are slammed! ;)

    Yeah, one of many things I love about steel!
    I had a mondo rock come up and bounce off of my downtube, then break my rear valve stem. No dents, though.

    Los
  • 10-25-2011
    Myers005
    FWIW, no problems with XTR M960 SS mod cranks (170mm) on my Nimble.
  • 10-26-2011
    ingluis
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Ryan G. View Post
    Are people using the cable guides for their der cables or disc brake lines? Running a 1x9 through cable guides right now and will zip tie the disc brake lines

    Just tie all the cables through the guide using a single zip tie.
  • 10-26-2011
    LOBSTERJOHNSON
    anyone running a maxxis ardent 2.4 in the back of a nimble 9 ?
    or know if they fit ok ?
  • 10-26-2011
    p nut
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by LOBSTERJOHNSON View Post
    or know if they fit ok ?

    Don't worry. There is plenty of room.
  • 10-26-2011
    sslos
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by p nut View Post
    Don't worry. There is plenty of room.

    Yeah, even if you are using P35s.

    Los
  • 10-26-2011
    mojojojoaf
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by esku View Post
    It's one of the nicest frame I ever had.
    .

    Wish I had the money because this is exactly what I want in a 29er. Exactly.
  • 10-26-2011
    WRX-Rob
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Myers005 View Post
    FWIW, no problems with XTR M960 SS mod cranks (170mm) on my Nimble.

    Looks like 170 is the key to your success.
  • 10-27-2011
    WarPigs
    Hi, I cant figure out the drawing at the Nimble 9's website, can anyone help me with the standover height for a small Nimble 9, with a 100mm and 120mm fork? thanks.
  • 10-27-2011
    Ryan G.
    2 Attachment(s)
    Finally up and running. A quick shakedown ride through the City on sporadic singletrack on the old army base.
  • 10-28-2011
    mtbnachos
    Awesome thanks for the info. Eventually I will get this frame with WI cranks.
  • 10-28-2011
    mtbnachos
    Sweet bike AOK. I am freakin drooling over here in San Diego! Argh! The blue complements that Fox fork. Is that a Large frame? I'm 5'11" with 32" inseam and heard that a Large will fit me but not sure.
  • 10-28-2011
    flymybike
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by WarPigs View Post
    Hi, I cant figure out the drawing at the Nimble 9's website, can anyone help me with the standover height for a small Nimble 9, with a 100mm and 120mm fork? thanks.

    A small is about 15".

    16" seat tube, TT is about 1 1/2" lower and the BB is about 1/2" higher on a 120mm fork.
  • 10-28-2011
    mtbnachos
    Sweet bike rasse, arghh I want one now! I'm the same height as you and judging by the pics a medium will fit me if I max out my Thomson post. Hopefully not too much. How long is that Moots post?
  • 10-28-2011
    mtbnachos
    Me likey!
  • 10-28-2011
    Ryan G.
    So running a 90mm 4x Thomson stem and Sunline OS riser bar and thinking about shortening the stem considerably down to trying a 50mm and a flat bar. Anyone running a combo like that?
  • 10-28-2011
    p nut
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mtbnachos View Post
    Sweet bike AOK. I am freakin drooling over here in San Diego! Argh! The blue complements that Fox fork. Is that a Large frame? I'm 5'11" with 32" inseam and heard that a Large will fit me but not sure.

    I'm about your height with 32.5" inseam. Medium fits well. I've got a 410mm Thomson post, but not maxed out. 80mm stem with a 800 mm flat bar and the fit is spot on.
  • 10-29-2011
    GearTech
    Click the image to go to the full album


    I was going to wait until I had it built up but it's taking awhile to gather the parts so here's the frame. Going to start life as a single speed with a possible switch to 1x9 or 1x10 down the road.

    Planned Build:
    Frame: Medium N9
    Fork: White Brothers Loop29 120mm (on its way to me)
    Stem: Spank Oozy Stem
    Bars: Spank Subrosa 747
    Cranks: FSA Afterburner
    Wheels: Still haven't figured that one out.
    Brakes: Avid X0 possibly XX
    Headset: FSA
    Post: FSA
    Saddle: WTB TBD
    Tires: Schwalbe NN
  • 10-30-2011
    GearTech
    And one of it glowing in the dark...
  • 10-30-2011
    WarPigs
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by flymybike View Post
    A small is about 15".

    16" seat tube, TT is about 1 1/2" lower and the BB is about 1/2" higher on a 120mm fork.

    Thanks, I emailed Canfield and Sean Gollub answered my query, he told me its "Stand over in the middle of the bike is about 28" depending on fork and headset."
  • 10-31-2011
    ingluis
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by pablo_goral View Post
    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D356CjYNAt9Qmnbke8Uo2A?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0-Gw1qoqTCc/TqDg4cKl1sI/AAAAAAAAAGk/6ZMoZnS5owE/s144/DSCF0001.JPG" height="96" width="144" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">Od <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108543226678960504994/Nimble9?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Nimble 9</a></td></tr></table>

    Wow, super nice.
  • 10-31-2011
    29buzz
    Anyone else like their sliders all the way back? I keep trying forward-but even 5mm feels odd to me. I have a dropper post now,and with that in the tight twistys-it rails-and the front stays down on seated climbs-even with a 120mm fork. I luv me some adjustability!
  • 10-31-2011
    Ryan G.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 29buzz View Post
    Anyone else like their sliders all the way back? I keep trying forward-but even 5mm feels odd to me. I have a dropper post now,and with that in the tight twistys-it rails-and the front stays down on seated climbs-even with a 120mm fork. I luv me some adjustability!


    Mine are slammed all the way forward but this bike is one of the best I have owned. It doesn't feel like any other 29er I have had. Bike is very manuverable, eats up small chunk and the geo is spot on with a 100mm fork and 15qr. Just need to play around with seat position, try a non-setback seatpost and try some flat bars.
  • 10-31-2011
    Myers005
    1 Attachment(s)
    Still dialing mine in. Small frame, just installed the setback post which definitely helped riding position, especially descending. Also switched out a Reba for a Fox Terralogic (thanks JMS!). I got tired of flipping the lockout - just wanted to set-and-forget. First ride today, loved the Terralogic! Today was the best ride so far, this thing just loves to climb:thumbsup:
  • 11-01-2011
    sslos
    1 Attachment(s)
    Nice, Myers005!
    I'd like to maybe try a Terralogic one of these days.
    Right now, I'm trying a rigid again. It's been about a year and a half since I've been using suspension, and I decided I wanted to see if rigid was an option for me on this bike.
    I think, due to the lower front end, it actually seems harder to loft the front with the Salsa than the Fox set to 100mm. If I don't miss the suspension too much, I may try the upcoming White Bros. Rock Solid 495mm.

    Los
  • 11-01-2011
    p nut
    Ha! I rode last week on a Cromoto Grande while my Reba was getting rebuilt and lengthened to 100mm. I liked the rigid ride. But I do agree the fork needs to be longer. I was getting the same amount of pedal strikes as with an 80mm fork. Anyone know of any steel fork options that are ~500mm?

    Edit: Voodoo Zombie 500. I think I'll try it out. Looks like they're pretty cheap at $70.
    Edit 2: Holy crap. 3.5lbs. I think I'll try to find an old Niner 490mm fork.
  • 11-01-2011
    Myers005
    Very cool you guys are running rigid, but I can see where the fork length would be an issue. I rode my other bikes rigid until August, and then my 49 y/o shoulders let me know that was enough, so back to suspension for me. As my dad says, getting old isn't for wimps;)
  • 11-01-2011
    ajdonner
    I posted my N9 with the zombie 500 a few pages back. I went with rigid fork because I was impatient, couldnt afford a squishy fork at the time and figured it'd approximate the geo of a sagged 120mm fork. I now have a reba up front set at 100mm and am thrilled with the change. I am on the small end of rider size for the medium frame and the z500 raised the front end a bit too much. I'll likely experiment with 120mm but my gut tells me 100mm is the sweet spot for me.
    Spam: I've got a voodoo zombie fork for sale. Steerer is cut pretty short though (185mm IIRC). Pm me for details if interested.
  • 11-01-2011
    sslos
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by p nut View Post
    Ha! I rode last week on a Cromoto Grande while my Reba was getting rebuilt and lengthened to 100mm. I liked the rigid ride. But I do agree the fork needs to be longer. I was getting the same amount of pedal strikes as with an 80mm fork. Anyone know of any steel fork options that are ~500mm?

    Edit: Voodoo Zombie 500. I think I'll try it out. Looks like they're pretty cheap at $70.
    Edit 2: Holy crap. 3.5lbs. I think I'll try to find an old Niner 490mm fork.

    If you don't mind waiting a bit, White Bros. will have a Rock Solid available in a 495mm length. Not cheap, but pretty darn light.

    Los
  • 11-03-2011
    mtbnachos
    That looks like Lake Hodges to me sir! :p
  • 11-05-2011
    mtbnachos
    Canfield N9 Sizing
    Arghh! Is anybody here have a Large frame and about 5'10" to 6'? Mediums out of stock! :madman: My last 29er was an 18" Jabberwocky and the ETT is the same is the Large N9. I'm gonna slap my Vassago ODIS on it.
  • 11-05-2011
    mtbnachos
    Sweet bike osty, is that a Large?
  • 11-05-2011
    mtbnachos
    I'll be straight up with you chestercospinner, you are one cheap m#$f#$ker. In my opinion Canfield MSRP is a great price already. $250 cheaper than an SIR 9 and does the same job without an EBB.
  • 11-06-2011
    osty
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mtbnachos View Post
    Sweet bike osty, is that a Large?

    Yea, it's a large. I am somwhere between 6'-6'1".
    If you're under 6' the satndover may be alittle high for you.
    Great frame though and I punish the hell out of it:D
  • 11-06-2011
    p nut
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mtbnachos View Post
    Arghh! Is anybody here have a Large frame and about 5'10" to 6'? Mediums out of stock! :madman: My last 29er was an 18" Jabberwocky and the ETT is the same is the Large N9. I'm gonna slap my Vassago ODIS on it.

    You may want a large N9 if you liked the 18" Jabber. I had a 18" Jabber and it felt a touch too long for me. (I'm 5' 11"). I got on a Large N9 and I think it felt even a tiny bit shorter than my old 18" Jabber. Stand over was no problem for me, and really should be secondary to ETT fit anyway.

    Also, rethink the Odis fork. I had pedal strike problems with a Salsa Cromoto Grande, which I believe is slightly longer than the Odis.
  • 11-06-2011
    jayoutside
    anyone looking to sell a medium frame?

    Canfield is out of medium nimble9's - looking to pick one up. Prefer green ,but I'll take anything. PM me if you are looking to off-load!
  • 11-06-2011
    Ryan G.
    Never mind
  • 11-06-2011
    JAKEtheDOG


    The Nimble 9 almost got by me. I'd seen a couple threads but dismissed it as a long travel HT or AM bike which really didn't sound at all appealing given my local terrain here in north Texas. Then for some reason, it caught my eye again and I decided to call Canfield. Had a great conversation with Chris and realized right away these guys are very passionate about these bikes. It also sounded like the geometry of this frame may not be as out of place as I thought so I decided to give it a shot.

    Just got this one built up last week. The frame showed up on time and ready to build. I was very impressed with the finish and prep which only added to the stoke. The build went together quick and easy. I've got some tweaks to do and the wheels are borrowed from other bikes but I'm already getting the feeling I'm really going to like this bike. Much of what's already been written I've found to be true. The Nimble 9 climbs really well, handles the twists like a dream, and the ride is surprisingly smooth. I think I'm going to get along quite well with this bike. It's certainly aptly named. Nimble it is. :thumbsup:

    There are some downsides, if you can call them that. I intended to run my White Industries cranks and wheels but there was no way, no how I was going to get a 47.5mm chain line to work on this bike. On the upside, the 180mm Shimano cranks are working just fine (one spacer on the drive side). Though my heals have already marked up the chain and seat stays. The bike has considerably more wheel flop than I'm used to. This is compared to the other 29er's I've owned (Sir9, One9, Air9, Dean Ti Colonel, Karate Monkey, and Blackbuck) but it hasn't proven to be an issue on the trail. The set-up is directly off my last build so it's certainly not optimized for the geometry of this frame. I'll likely lower the bars a bit and possibly move to a shorter stem/ wider bar.

    If you're used to traditional XC geometry, this bike does require some adjustments to your riding style. At least it did for me but after only about 20 miles of varied terrain, I'm already starting to gel with it. And it's not even dialed in yet. If you're looking to add something to the stable with a bit slacker angles and uber short stays, you should take a strong look at a Nimble 9. It's worth every penny the Canfield boys are asking.

    *Sorry for the low quality cell pictures. The time change had me on the trail a bit later than I expected today.





  • 11-07-2011
    unezridr
    hey Jake, do you mind describing what you mean by "wheel flop"?

    also do you think that's something intrinsic to this frame or could it be improved when you have your set up "optimized" as you said you plan to do.

    I'm considering this frame for a SS and am close to pulling the trigger, just wanted to hear what your issue was.

    and if you don't mind could you post the size frame compared to your height and inseam?
    thanks!
  • 11-07-2011
    slocaus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by unezridr View Post
    hey Jake, do you mind describing what you mean by "wheel flop"?

    also do you think that's something intrinsic to this frame or could it be improved when you have your set up "optimized" as you said you plan to do.

    I'm considering this frame for a SS and am close to pulling the trigger, just wanted to hear what your issue was.

    and if you don't mind could you post the size frame compared to your height and inseam?
    thanks!

    Geometry of Bike Handling

    Lots more......

    Let me google that for you

    :D
  • 11-07-2011
    mtbnachos
    Thanks for the info p_nut, my Jabber had a short Sunline 80mm stem and that dialed in well. I'm going for Large! Can't wait to get this frame.
  • 11-07-2011
    mtbnachos
    Awesome bike nativeson, like the subtle touches that go along with it. I got an ODIS fork myself, how did it feel on the N9? Pros and cons...
  • 11-07-2011
    JAKEtheDOG
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by unezridr View Post
    hey Jake, do you mind describing what you mean by "wheel flop"?

    also do you think that's something intrinsic to this frame or could it be improved when you have your set up "optimized" as you said you plan to do.

    I'm considering this frame for a SS and am close to pulling the trigger, just wanted to hear what your issue was.

    and if you don't mind could you post the size frame compared to your height and inseam?
    thanks!

    No problem. I should probably start off with the sizing and set-up to qualify the ride characteristics I'm finding. The frame is a size large and the fork is set to 100mm. Cranks are 180mm, stem is 110mm with 5º rise, and bars are Groovy Luv Handles. I'm 6'2" with a 34.25" inseam. The fit is dang near spot on.

    By wheel flop, I mean simply the front wheel tends to turn (or "flop") from side to side very easily with less of a tendency to self correct at low speeds. This is very noticeable when riding with no hands. It takes a bit more balance to keep the bike headed straight than my bikes with steeper HTA's. I think a 51mm offset fork would be just the ticket for this frame. On the trail, I guess I felt like I needed to be a bit more on top of the steering but it certainly hasn't been a problem. There is a bit of wander on slow grinding climbs but part of that is also due to the stem and bars I'm running which leads to...

    Set-up. The HT on this frame is a bit longer than the Blackbuck or Sir9 frames I was on before (and pulled the components from). As a result, the front end is a bit higher and my bars have ended up slightly above my saddle. Once I've had more saddle time and figure out exactly where things need to be, I'll likely replace this stem with something with less rise or maybe shorter as well with wider bars. Regardless, my hand position needs to come down which will also settle down the front end.

    The other tweak I'm considering is shorter cranks. So far, the 180's haven't been an issue but I'm tempted to move to 175's or even 170's. If I do, that will also raise the seat and may negate any necessary changes with the cockpit.

    To be clear, I'm not displeased in anyway with the way this bike rides, even as is. It's different enough from anything I've had before that an adjustment period is to be expected. At this point, I'm pretty stoked.
  • 11-07-2011
    mtbnachos
    I'm 5'11.5" yet the ETT is right on the money if I get a Large. I think I am going Large just for that purpose and can deal with high standover.
  • 11-08-2011
    unezridr
    Lmgtfu
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by slocaus View Post

    THANKS BRO!! :thumbsup:

    I'm quite capable of and had already "googled that" for myself.

    I wanted to get the user's impression, that's why I asked him "what [he] meant by wheel flop"

    I find that not infrequently here, and on other forums, people use terms somewhat indiscriminately. One persons' "technical" trail, may not be so to another, etc. Thus my question.

    Thanks for your help!
    :D
  • 11-08-2011
    nativeson
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mtbnachos View Post
    Awesome bike nativeson, like the subtle touches that go along with it. I got an ODIS fork myself, how did it feel on the N9? Pros and cons...

    i guess the fork's a bit short but as long as you keep it in mind when you know you'll get pedal strikes and keep the cranks level to the ground you're good. i guess i'm pretty aware of lower bottom bracket bike having own two gen1 sc vpp bikes. haven't ridden it with a suspension fork so i wouldn't know anything else at the moment.

    rode the other day and followed a buddy on a gen1 blur down a rain packed buff trail and was suckin his rear wheel for the most part. the bike felt like it was on rails and the big wheels just kept rollin when he had to keep pedalin on the shorter uphill sections where i could just keep momentum and keep flowin. feels like a rocket and i'm gonna keep sayin that it steers awesome with your hips. definitely gonna get a fox fork in the future but i just love the low maintenance of a rigid bike.
  • 11-08-2011
    slocaus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by unezridr View Post
    THANKS BRO!! :thumbsup:

    I'm quite capable of and had already "googled that" for myself.

    I wanted to get the user's impression, that's why I asked him "what [he] meant by wheel flop"

    I find that not infrequently here, and on other forums, people use terms somewhat indiscriminately. One persons' "technical" trail, may not be so to another, etc. Thus my question.

    Thanks for your help!
    :D

    Good point about user definitions varying.

    I'm always good for smartazz help, just let me know when you need more. :D
  • 11-09-2011
    p nut
    Snow Nimble.



    Time to hang her up for the season... Good thing my new skis just arrived. :D
  • 11-10-2011
    burritobeau
    Here is mine. I would like better wheels but this is what I had for now. So far I like!
  • 11-10-2011
    Lumbee1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JAKEtheDOG View Post
    No problem. I should probably start off with the sizing and set-up to qualify the ride characteristics I'm finding. The frame is a size large and the fork is set to 100mm. Cranks are 180mm, stem is 110mm with 5º rise, and bars are Groovy Luv Handles. I'm 6'2" with a 34.25" inseam. The fit is dang near spot on.

    By wheel flop, I mean simply the front wheel tends to turn (or "flop") from side to side very easily with less of a tendency to self correct at low speeds. This is very noticeable when riding with no hands. It takes a bit more balance to keep the bike headed straight than my bikes with steeper HTA's. I think a 51mm offset fork would be just the ticket for this frame. On the trail, I guess I felt like I needed to be a bit more on top of the steering but it certainly hasn't been a problem. There is a bit of wander on slow grinding climbs but part of that is also due to the stem and bars I'm running which leads to...

    Set-up. The HT on this frame is a bit longer than the Blackbuck or Sir9 frames I was on before (and pulled the components from). As a result, the front end is a bit higher and my bars have ended up slightly above my saddle. Once I've had more saddle time and figure out exactly where things need to be, I'll likely replace this stem with something with less rise or maybe shorter as well with wider bars. Regardless, my hand position needs to come down which will also settle down the front end.

    The other tweak I'm considering is shorter cranks. So far, the 180's haven't been an issue but I'm tempted to move to 175's or even 170's. If I do, that will also raise the seat and may negate any necessary changes with the cockpit.

    To be clear, I'm not displeased in anyway with the way this bike rides, even as is. It's different enough from anything I've had before that an adjustment period is to be expected. At this point, I'm pretty stoked.

    Hey Jake, we are almost identical in height and inseam (6'2" and 34" inseam). I currently have a SS Karate Monkey with a Waltworks fork. I love the bike but I really would like to try something that is a little taller in the front with shorter chainstays. With the Monkey and the rear wheel pushed all the way forward, sometimes the front end would get very light. Have you noticed this with the Nimble9? What are the major differences in the ride between the Monkey and the N9?
  • 11-10-2011
    jimx200
    [QUOTE=sslos;8267661]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/71FJ8byXLIdkdaTVCjyhrcqGViO3W2zqb0Fy6FYMtpM?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Tk13PzrVq4k/TimzKPLXwDI/AAAAAAAAAGs/Zd9s8G2tI2I/s144/IMAG0300.jpg" height="96" width="144" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/1speedlos/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLn8hMD38-DYWw&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>
    Outside the condo where we're staying in Sun Valley.
    Word of warning if anyone is planning on using a White Industries crank: I ended up needing a 122mm BB for it in order to clear the driveside chainstay. Probably the same for most other square taper cranks, too. A 115 worked fine on the Unit.
    As far as the geometry, it feels more playful, and definitely easier to pop the front up over stuff... even in flip-flops!

    Fine looking bike. Good photo..iPhone 3g or 4?
  • 11-11-2011
    Surfdog93
    XL size will be available for 2012....I'm interested
  • 11-11-2011
    JAKEtheDOG
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Lumbee1 View Post
    Hey Jake, we are almost identical in height and inseam (6'2" and 34" inseam). I currently have a SS Karate Monkey with a Waltworks fork. I love the bike but I really would like to try something that is a little taller in the front with shorter chainstays. With the Monkey and the rear wheel pushed all the way forward, sometimes the front end would get very light. Have you noticed this with the Nimble9? What are the major differences in the ride between the Monkey and the N9?

    The front end of my N9 feels a touch light but I think there's two things contributing to that. First is I currently have the bars slightly above my saddle (about a half inch). Typically I would run them even or slightly lower and intend to make this adjustment. Second is the more slack head tube makes the bike steer a bit easier. The lighter steering contributes to the "feel" of a lighter front end but I don't feel like it's losing traction.

    I actually love the way my Monkey rode. I'd say other than the differences you've already noted, the only other thing that stands out to me is how much smoother the N9 is. I found my Monkey and Blackbuck to both be pretty harsh. The N9 is definitely closer to the Sir9 but stiffer in the BB area. Maybe it's a combination of the slack angles and Ti post or maybe the curved says actually do provide some compliance, I don't know. But the N9 really does have a great ride none the less.
  • 11-11-2011
    mtbnachos
    Thanks osty. I ordered the Large and will arrive in a couple days so I'm picturing the build in my mind already. I do like your 1x9 setup, what chain guide are you using? I have N-Gear jumpstop but exploring other options. Is your derailleur a medium cage?
  • 11-12-2011
    sslos
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jimx200 View Post

    Fine looking bike. Good photo..iPhone 3g or 4?

    Thanks, it was actually taken with an HTC Eris. I've since changed to an iPhone 4, which is much better.

    Los
  • 11-13-2011
    mtbnachos
    Agreed for now I'm sticking the ODIS but when I can afford it I will be putting on a 120 Fox Talas.
  • 11-13-2011
    bobbotron
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JAKEtheDOG View Post
    No problem. I should probably start off with the sizing and set-up to qualify the ride characteristics I'm finding. The frame is a size large and the fork is set to 100mm. Cranks are 180mm, stem is 110mm with 5º rise, and bars are Groovy Luv Handles. I'm 6'2" with a 34.25" inseam. The fit is dang near spot on.

    By wheel flop, I mean simply the front wheel tends to turn (or "flop") from side to side very easily with less of a tendency to self correct at low speeds. This is very noticeable when riding with no hands. It takes a bit more balance to keep the bike headed straight than my bikes with steeper HTA's. I think a 51mm offset fork would be just the ticket for this frame. On the trail, I guess I felt like I needed to be a bit more on top of the steering but it certainly hasn't been a problem. There is a bit of wander on slow grinding climbs but part of that is also due to the stem and bars I'm running which leads to...

    Set-up. The HT on this frame is a bit longer than the Blackbuck or Sir9 frames I was on before (and pulled the components from). As a result, the front end is a bit higher and my bars have ended up slightly above my saddle. Once I've had more saddle time and figure out exactly where things need to be, I'll likely replace this stem with something with less rise or maybe shorter as well with wider bars. Regardless, my hand position needs to come down which will also settle down the front end.

    The other tweak I'm considering is shorter cranks. So far, the 180's haven't been an issue but I'm tempted to move to 175's or even 170's. If I do, that will also raise the seat and may negate any necessary changes with the cockpit.

    To be clear, I'm not displeased in anyway with the way this bike rides, even as is. It's different enough from anything I've had before that an adjustment period is to be expected. At this point, I'm pretty stoked.

    That's super interesting - I haven't had the pleasure to ride a slacker bike like this in forever, so I've forgotten what it's like. I thought a slacker HT angle was supposed to give you slower, more confident steering? What do you find to be the benefits of the slacker HT?
  • 11-14-2011
    edgerat
    This is one of those tricky fitting frames. I typically ride a small-size Niner or, medium-sized 26ers. I typically feel most comfy around 23" ETT. I am 5'6" with a 28" inseam and a 69cm bb-saddle height. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I am running a Reba 120 RLT, may knock it down to 100mm. I have an Eriksen setback post I can use. For some reason I am just a bit terrified of getting the wrong size :) This frame seems to bring that out in folks!
    Isaac
  • 11-14-2011
    Myers005
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by edgerat View Post
    This is one of those tricky fitting frames. I typically ride a small-size Niner or, medium-sized 26ers. I typically feel most comfy around 23" ETT. I am 5'6" with a 28" inseam and a 69cm bb-saddle height. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I am running a Reba 120 RLT, may knock it down to 100mm. I have an Eriksen setback post I can use. For some reason I am just a bit terrified of getting the wrong size :) This frame seems to bring that out in folks!
    Isaac

    Hmm, we're about the same height, I might have a bit longer legs. I'm ok with the top tube length on my small Nimble 9 (photo at top of page); for comparison I also have a small One 9 and was very comfy running a 100mm stem with 100mm Reba (since dropped to 90mm stem and 80mm shock which is a bit more upright but feels fine). The Nimble 9 is definitely more upright, but I'm fine with the setback seat post. FWIW, I'd think the medium N9 would be a bit too tall for you (stand over is less on my small N9 than on my small One 9).
  • 11-14-2011
    JAKEtheDOG
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bobbotron View Post
    That's super interesting - I haven't had the pleasure to ride a slacker bike like this in forever, so I've forgotten what it's like. I thought a slacker HT angle was supposed to give you slower, more confident steering? What do you find to be the benefits of the slacker HT?

    Slower, more controlled at speed. Killer for bombing down hill. A little light feeling in the slow, grinding, techy climbs but certainly not an issue.

    One of the great things about this frame is it works well with 80mm, 100mm, or 120mm forks. 100mm is a great compromise for the relatively flat trails we have here in N Texas. Slack enough to make the down hills fun without too many pedal strikes and still manageable on the climbs. If I were setting it up for pure XC/race I'd use an 80mm fork or equivalent A-C rigid fork. If I lived somewhere with hills and possessed the ability fly down them, I'd probably set it up with a 120mm fork. Chris Canfield said he feels that's the sweet spot for this frame and I would imagine that to be the case for their trails...and his skill level.
  • 11-14-2011
    going29AZ
    I would agree with Myers, I'm about 5'-8 1/2" w/ a 30" inseam. I was riding a small Jabber and went with a medium N9 w/ a 65mm stem(approx the same ETT) , the cockpit feels like it was designed for me. My 2 cents is a small frame would be a better fit and play around with stem lengths. Also, my 100mm F29 feels really good on this frame a lot different than the sharper headtube of the Canzo it was formally on.
    Good luck with the build and be sure to post up pics when it's complete!
  • 11-15-2011
    Entrenador
    ETT on size L confirmation please
    Hey all. If you have a large set up with a 100mm fork, please clear up the geo. vs. spec. listings and post your "effective top tube" length. Rep points for the same at 120mm. :thumbsup:
  • 11-15-2011
    will.b
    Very nice looking!
  • 11-16-2011
    mtbnachos
    1 Attachment(s)
    Ok time to get this pahtay started!
    Christmas arrived super early for me. Build will be :confused: Stay tuned my fellow riders....... :cornut:
  • 11-16-2011
    Surfdog93
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mtbnachos View Post
    Christmas arrived super early for me. Build will be :confused: Stay tuned my fellow riders....... :cornut:

    Even the carton is cool, congrats
  • 11-16-2011
    29buzz
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Entrenador View Post
    Hey all. If you have a large set up with a 100mm fork, please clear up the geo. vs. spec. listings and post your "effective top tube" length. Rep points for the same at 120mm. :thumbsup:

    I have a large with a 120mm Manitiou...I get 24in...I wish it was .5 more-but it still rocks!!
  • 11-16-2011
    going29AZ
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mtbnachos View Post
    Christmas arrived super early for me. Build will be :confused: Stay tuned my fellow riders....... :cornut:

    Sweet! Don't forget to look in the box for the huge sheet of stickers! Nice little touch:thumbsup:
  • 11-16-2011
    wasfast
    VERY interested in an XL size. I'm not sure I can wait til the 2012's are available and may go with the Kona Honzo.
  • 11-17-2011
    mtbnachos
    Yeah I got the stickies, wonder if they are replacements if the black decals come off.
  • 11-17-2011
    dubthang
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mtbnachos View Post
    Yeah I got the stickies, wonder if they are replacements if the black decals come off.

    I've been using the small stickers to cover up the spots were I've removed the paint. I used some of the clear stickers to prevent cable rub, and I placed the large ones on the front legs of my Niner fork to help prevent chips.
  • 11-17-2011
    Entrenador
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 29buzz View Post
    I have a large with a 120mm Manitiou...I get 24in...I wish it was .5 more-but it still rocks!!

    Ah, much appreciated, 29buzz. At 24" even, it's in my wheelhouse! Reduce the fork to 110 or 100, and I'm even closer [insert sound of grey matter gears turning here]. :thumbsup:
  • 11-18-2011
    flymybike
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Entrenador View Post
    Hey all. If you have a large set up with a 100mm fork, please clear up the geo. vs. spec. listings and post your "effective top tube" length. Rep points for the same at 120mm. :thumbsup:

    My personal bike is a large with a fox 100mm fork. From HT top center to seat post center measured horizontal is 24". On the geo print it shows 24.2", that is assuming you have your seat up at full extension. So as you lower your seat it gets 0.2" shorter down to horizontal. If you run a 120 fork it gets slightly shorter but it can easily compinsated with the saddle.
  • 11-19-2011
    mtbnachos
    I see, I see. I'll stash them somewhere safe. On to my build......