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  1. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by p nut View Post
    Looks good. Though I think you're using Ardent front and FR3 rear.
    D'oh!
    Corrected, thanks for catching that!

    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

  2. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by rottendan View Post
    here are some pics of mine running a 2 x10 shimano xt and 2.4 ralphs. I have the sliders pushed all the way back and there is a solid 25mm of room. I'd say you could get real close to the full forward position but, you'd have no room for debris clearance. sslos that puzzler course looks insane... nice job ss it!
    Thanks for that- it was a rough one!
    What rims are you using? I have good clearance with the FR-3 mounted on a Bontrager Duster, enough that I could easily run the sliders all the way forward with the right gearing. I actually did run them all the way forward with a 32x20 and a 2.4 Ardent for the Puzzler with no problems.
    Looks like you could run it all the way forward if you cut off the (unnecessary on this bike) bottom-pull routing on your front derailleur.
    Just a thought.
    You should post full shots of your bike. 'Cause I like 'em.
    Edit: I just noticed that you already did post some back on page 23. Maybe this thread has gotten a bit cumbersome?

    Los
    Last edited by sslos; 01-31-2012 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Limited memory...
    Whiskey is my yoga.

  3. #703
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    Quote Originally Posted by sslos View Post
    Thanks for that- it was a rough one!
    What rims are you using? I have good clearance with the FR-3 mounted on a Bontrager Duster, enough that I could easily run the sliders all the way forward with the right gearing. I actually did run them all the way forward with a 32x20 and a 2.4 Ardent for the Puzzler with no problems.
    Looks like you could run it all the way forward if you cut off the (unnecessary on this bike) bottom-pull routing on your front derailleur.
    Just a thought.
    You should post full shots of your bike. 'Cause I like 'em.
    Edit: I just noticed that you already did post some back on page 23. Maybe this thread has gotten a bit cumbersome?

    Los
    canfeilds C2 rim and hub. they are 27mm wide with a inner width of 22mm. gives my ralph 2.4s a casing width of 62mm.

    I would cut the bp routing off, but this drive train is headed for another bike after the local race season ends this fall, good call though. I'm going to fat front and single speed the nine for winter use.

    yes this thread is becoming a bit large...
    coastin' along

  4. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by uphiller View Post
    Thanks for the info. In your opinion, would clearance be better if there were an 83mm instead of a 73mm bb shell? Just wondering, for the sake of building a custom frame.
    For the Nimble, it wouldn't make any difference. The reason I had to put the sliders a few mm back from full front is to clear the FD swingarm on the seat tube.

    Also note that I live in a fairly dry climate, so I am not leaving much room for mud clearance. If you are in a mucky area, you might need a little more.

  5. #705
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    OK - here's my review, plagiarized from Los.
    Quote Originally Posted by sslos View Post
    ...
    Strengths: Versatility, great ride quality, fit and finish.
    Short-stay/ slack HT geometry works well- for me.

    ...
    The frame is burly enough to handle some rough-and-tumble, but not so heavy it precludes it's use as a XC bike. *Some riders, especially those who ride geared, and climb in a fairly low gear while seated might have some issues with the front lifting due to the short rear end. ...
    While I have it set up somewhere between XC and AM light- it's actually my endurance racing all-'rounder. This is my only "regular" mountain bike-
    ...
    I'll be honest- I'm really thrilled by this bike, ... confidence-inspiring ...

    Los
    ^^^I think it is all spot-on.
    *The light front on steep climbs is not a handicap. It just requires that you get out of the saddle a little earlier than you might otherwise to get your weight up front.
    The slack front end also probably has me moving my weight forward more to dig in the front tire in corners, but it is confidence-inspiring when pointed down.
    I am still getting used to mine and have found myself a little bit "in the backseat" a few times on g-outs and jumps with lips (that sounds, er, odd). MCR9 is up for grabs.

    -F

    edit: PS - I have a flat bar with 100mm stem set with no rise (horizontal) on a 2mm HS spacer. That's as low as I can go without a flipped riser bar, which would be unnecessary anyway.
    Last edited by Fleas; 02-01-2012 at 09:08 AM.

  6. #706
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    I flipped my stem downward (+/-6 90mm) and got a bar with only 3/4" rise for my Nimble. With the stem upward and 40mm rise bar the front end wasnt weighted enough for me. Now its PERFECT. I'll flip the stem and put on higher rise bars for when I visit the mountains!


  7. #707
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    ^ That looks great!
    konahonzo

  8. #708
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    OK - here's my review, plagiarized from Los.

    ^^^I think it is all spot-on.
    *The light front on steep climbs is not a handicap. It just requires that you get out of the saddle a little earlier than you might otherwise to get your weight up front.
    The slack front end also probably has me moving my weight forward more to dig in the front tire in corners, but it is confidence-inspiring when pointed down.
    I am still getting used to mine and have found myself a little bit "in the backseat" a few times on g-outs and jumps with lips (that sounds, er, odd). MCR9 is up for grabs.

    -F

    edit: PS - I have a flat bar with 100mm stem set with no rise (horizontal) on a 2mm HS spacer. That's as low as I can go without a flipped riser bar, which would be unnecessary anyway.
    Thanks for the geared input on the review!

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron1017 View Post
    I flipped my stem downward (+/-6 90mm) and got a bar with only 3/4" rise for my Nimble. With the stem upward and 40mm rise bar the front end wasnt weighted enough for me. Now its PERFECT. I'll flip the stem and put on higher rise bars for when I visit the mountains!
    Interesting, I was just thinking about flipping my stem (6 degree, 90mm Kore and flat Niner alloy bar) when I saw your post.
    I was considering it to stretch me out just a touch, but when I saw your pic, I realized how much faster that's gonna make me look!
    Hey, if you can't be fast, look fast...

    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

  9. #709
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    What is the actual measured bottom bracket height of a Nimble with a 468-470mm fork?
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  10. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    What is the actual measured bottom bracket height of a Nimble with a 468-470mm fork?
    I posted it above.

  11. #711
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    I saw your measurement to the bottom of the bottom bracket shell, I want to the center of the bottom bracket.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  12. #712
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    I saw your measurement to the bottom of the bottom bracket shell, I want to the center of the bottom bracket.
    A bb is approximately 34mm in diamter so just add half of that.

  13. #713
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    So 11.4", I would have thought a little higher.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  14. #714
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    I read this thread pretty often, and drool over many of the N9s. But, yours is probably the one to end all my dreaming. Beautiful.... (no offense to anyone else, I love your N9s as well...

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron1017 View Post
    I flipped my stem downward (+/-6 90mm) and got a bar with only 3/4" rise for my Nimble. With the stem upward and 40mm rise bar the front end wasnt weighted enough for me. Now its PERFECT. I'll flip the stem and put on higher rise bars for when I visit the mountains!

    C'mon lets go for a whirl.

  15. #715
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    So 11.4", I would have thought a little higher.
    I wish it was. It's a little low when traversing techy objects. I find it easier to get hung up on logs and whatnot. I just have to plan my attacks better. That said, I notice the lower center of gravity, and really dig it. It's easy to push into corners with my legs, and let the bike rip around them.

  16. #716
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    Just started to build my Nimble nine, geared, when I found the drop outs supplied were single speed only, were you supposed to get both types in the box ?

  17. #717
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonm View Post
    Just started to build my Nimble nine, geared, when I found the drop outs supplied were single speed only, were you supposed to get both types in the box ?
    There is only one set that I know of. Usable for ss or gears. Did you get two non-drive sides by chance, or just over look the hanger on the drive side?

  18. #718
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    Double checked..its Single speed only. Checked on Canfield website and there is two types available, geared or SS.

  19. #719
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    Just ordered a purple 2012!

    I do have some build questions though. I am new to 29ers and coming from a DH and aggressive trail riding background. A 120mm fork sounds so short compared to the 180 and 160's I usually run. I saw a couple people tried a 140 but haven't found too many on the yelli or nimble going that route. I was thinking of a Reba either way so I can use spacers to bring it down, but the 120mm Reba I found is lighter than the 140 Reba so if the 140 is unwarranted I would just get the 120.

    Can anyone give me a little more feedback on the 140 for a nimble? I'll be riding rocky trails in New England. Not many long climbs but lots of quick techy up and downs. Thanks!

  20. #720
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    gunna be pretty slack (for a 29er) at 140mm isnt it ?

  21. #721
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecibis View Post
    I do have some build questions though. I am new to 29ers and coming from a DH and aggressive trail riding background. A 120mm fork sounds so short compared to the 180 and 160's I usually run. I saw a couple people tried a 140 but haven't found too many on the yelli or nimble going that route. I was thinking of a Reba either way so I can use spacers to bring it down, but the 120mm Reba I found is lighter than the 140 Reba so if the 140 is unwarranted I would just get the 120.

    Can anyone give me a little more feedback on the 140 for a nimble? I'll be riding rocky trails in New England. Not many long climbs but lots of quick techy up and downs. Thanks!
    the frame was not designed for a 140mm fork.
    <50mm BB drop and a 67° HTA might feel funky.
    as far as the question of whether 5" or 6" is the travel you need... don't know.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  22. #722
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    Yeah...

    I am leaning towards the 120 but want to make sure I am making the right choice before I pull the trigger. Some people on here seemed to like the forks in 140 settings.

  23. #723
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    I ride New England trails will a rigid fork. I'm sure a 120 Reba would be fine.

  24. #724
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    To me, a 100 29er feels like a 140 26er

  25. #725
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    120 it is then

    If a 100 feels enough the 120 will give me plenty of room. I may get a rigid too if I can pick one up on the cheap for some of the places I ride. I still have a rigid '95 kona I ride around and it's sweet at some of the places I go. Thanks

  26. #726
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    Doesn't look like an XL N9 is happening (although there was some talk about it), only S, M, and L 2012 frames are available for preorder.

    Nimble 9 | Canfield Brothers Bikes
    konahonzo

  27. #727
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    Are the specs the same between the 2011-12 models?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  28. #728
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    "Doesn't look like an XL N9 is happening (although there was some talk about it), only S, M, and L 2012 frames are available for preorder."

    I don't think the Canfield website is updated with the latest info. I ordered an XL N9 about a month ago and my contact was Sean Gollub (sean at canfieldbrothers dot com)

  29. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Are the specs the same between the 2011-12 models?
    Yes, from what I was told. Only difference is 3 bottle mounts instead of just 1.

  30. #730
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    Nice!

  31. #731
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    here is my Nimble 9 build. Built to take with me in our camper van this year, so doubles as a kid carrier as well as my trail bike on our camper holidays.
    Its a bit clutterd up front with Lock outs and shifters, tempted to run 1x10 in future. I've also got an x-fusion dropper seat to fit which will add even more clutter to the bars...
    Still to take her out for a ride but hope to this weekend.
    The Ardent 2.4's were a tight fit, had to move the drop outs back about 2/3rds down the slots to get about 5mm clearance to front mech.
    Only other change (before I've ridden) I really think needs making is getting some flat bars.. the front feels way to high.


  32. #732
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    Simon, is that a small N9?

  33. #733
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    yes it is wreckless...looks like a jump bike doesn't it !

  34. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonm View Post
    yes it is wreckless...looks like a jump bike doesn't it !
    It looks good. I'm patiently waiting for my purple medium.

  35. #735
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    Some pretty smart builds shown here, can't wait for my Nimble to arrive in the UK, going to build with fox qr 15 set at 120mm
    Stans wheels set (arch)
    SRAM 10speed (1x10)
    Lynskey Ti post
    Salsa moto Ti stem (80mm)
    Mrp chain device (top)
    Noblly nics (tubeless)
    Salsa whammy bars
    White industries crank with 122bb, although not so sure now reading some of the posts above?

    Should be a very versatile bike and a better all rounder that my singular swift.

  36. #736
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    XL Nimble 9

    Here's the new geo sheet with the XL Nimble 9.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-nimble-9-all-geo.jpg  

    http://www.canfieldbrothers.com/frames
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  37. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeShopMonkey View Post
    sure it is, proof,

    most bikes with 70 degrees or slacker are:

    downhill bikes
    chopper bikes
    beach cruisers
    and a select few of new short chainstay 29ers.

    now, your gonna tell me those bikes are known for quick steering?

    argue all you want, but when "you" are wrong, your just wrong.
    I have to say I agree with BikeShopMonkey on some level. I have a Trek EX8 with a slack HTA and I hate it in the tight twisty stuff. It feels like it wants to fold and fall in on itself when turning sharply because the wheel is so far out in front of me (due in part to the slack HTA and in part to the long XC race style ETT). I now ride a Pivot Mach 429 and it has made a world of difference. The Pivot has a shorter wheelbase, shorter ETT, and a steeper HTA (70.9). Now that being said I think that if you ran a 80mm fork (70mm HTA) with a 90mm or 100mm stem the Nimble9 would be perfect in the tight twisty single track (almost comparable to the 429). I love short wheelbase 29ers they carve like no other.

  38. #738
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    Your argument definitely has merit and brings in the pros/cons of changes to the head angle. I wouldn't debate that a steeper head angle has some advantages. It's the whole "there's no point in a bike with short chainstays and slackish head angle" argument that holds no water.

    Personally I couldn't get much riding on my Nimble before it got too icy to ride but I felt like at my weight (200) and the large frame, the front triangle was too flexy to really ride with the fork at its max travel. It was that combined with the floppiness you describe that made it a little unsettling for me. So you are not alone, my fork is now at 95 mm travel and 500 mm a-c (69* HA) and it feels pretty sweet. I also had to tweak the stem a lot to get it to feel right. Bottom line, you change frame geometry and you can expect to tweak a lot of other things before it feels better than what you had before. Doesn't mean a design is "wrong."

  39. #739
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    It would be nice to see some of the design features in the Kona Honzo incorporated into the Nimble9 like a 44mm HT and bends in the chain-stay for more crank/heel clearance. The Kona Honzo is looking more attractive at the moment other than the fact it is hard to get the Kona frame only. I have a feeling that my size 14 shoes would hit the chain-stays a lot? The only other thing that bothers me about the Kona is that it is designed for a short stem (60-80mm) because the ETT is so long. This means even more of your weight will be taken off the front end than with the Nimble9.

  40. #740
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    It would be nice to see some of the design features in the Kona Honzo incorporated into the Nimble9 like a 44mm HT and bends in the chain-stay for more crank/heel clearance. The Kona Honzo is looking more attractive at the moment other than the fact it is hard to get the Kona frame only. I have a feeling that my size 14 shoes would hit the chain-stays a lot? The only other thing that bothers me about the Kona is that it is designed for a short stem (60-80mm) because the ETT is so long. This means even more of your weight will be taken off the front end than with the Nimble9.
    I agree with the 44mm HT. For some that's a deal breaker. I know it was for me.

    And seeing the XL N9 geo, it's pretty similar to the 20" Honzo frame, both have a 25" ETT, reach is shorter on the N9 by only .1" but overall wheelbase is shorter by over an inch as well.

    Edit:
    But it looks like the geo for the N9 provided is based on a 80mm fork, so the reach will be less with a 120mm fork which the Honzo geo is listed with, and ETT will be longer and so will wheelbase.
    konahonzo

  41. #741
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    are these measurements static or sagged?

  42. #742
    errr...
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    Anyone have a pic of the 2012 Bone White, Orange colors ? We've seen the Lime and Purple.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chase1963 View Post
    Anyone have a pic of the 2012 Bone White, Orange colors ? We've seen the Lime and Purple.
    Wasn't there an orange in a pinkbike album, linked earlier in the thread?

    stoked about the XL geo, I'm gonna run some numbers to compare it to my current bikes' setups, but it looks good for me.

    As far as head angle, I went from a "slack" Gary Fisher G2 frame (69.6° + more offset) to a 72° bike and I've been over the bars more in 3 months than in the last 3 years. I'm thinking about trying the G2 offset fork @ 100mm on this frame. Anyone done that?

  44. #744
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    Quote Originally Posted by chase1963 View Post
    Anyone have a pic of the 2012 Bone White, Orange colors ? We've seen the Lime and Purple.
    They should be in on Monday.
    I can't wait for the White, I think that will be my next rig for the summer.

  45. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by blawson View Post
    Wasn't there an orange in a pinkbike album, linked earlier in the thread?

    stoked about the XL geo, I'm gonna run some numbers to compare it to my current bikes' setups, but it looks good for me.

    As far as head angle, I went from a "slack" Gary Fisher G2 frame (69.6° + more offset) to a 72° bike and I've been over the bars more in 3 months than in the last 3 years. I'm thinking about trying the G2 offset fork @ 100mm on this frame. Anyone done that?
    I remember someone posting that they are using a g2 fox a few pages back.

    I also have a g2 fox 100mm that's going on mine.

    Seems like it should be here in a week or so

    Thanks for the update cSquared

  46. #746
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    Crankset Conundrum

    I'm a little uncertain about what to do for cranks on this frame. I have a set of White Industries Eno 175mm, and a some Middleburn RS7 170mms. Not really sure which I should run. Saw a few posts about clearance issues and the White Industries. So I am a little hesitant to try them. As for the Middleburn, I have not run 170s on a singlespeed before. I've heard a lot of people claim they like them better than a long crank, so I might give them a try.


    Still haven't ordered it yet, gonna do that in the next few weeks. I do realize I can just experiment when the frame arrives, but my mind won't rest until I get some more feedback on this issue. Hopefully someone can answer this question.

    Thanks!

  47. #747
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    Placed my pre-order today, took a step out of my comfort zone and went with the purple. Super stoked that I'll be able to swap most of my parts from my Sir9 onto the N9. Can't wait.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  48. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by blawson View Post

    As far as head angle, I went from a "slack" Gary Fisher G2 frame (69.6° + more offset) to a 72° bike and I've been over the bars more in 3 months than in the last 3 years. I'm thinking about trying the G2 offset fork @ 100mm on this frame. Anyone done that?
    I'm using a G2 Fox at 100mm, and I really love the way this bike handles.
    To be fair, it's the only suspension fork I've ridden on this frame, but I like the geometry better than with the Salsa rigid I used for a bit.

    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

  49. #749
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    Quote Originally Posted by raoul duke View Post
    I'm a little uncertain about what to do for cranks on this frame. I have a set of White Industries Eno 175mm, and a some Middleburn RS7 170mms. Not really sure which I should run. Saw a few posts about clearance issues and the White Industries. So I am a little hesitant to try them. As for the Middleburn, I have not run 170s on a singlespeed before. I've heard a lot of people claim they like them better than a long crank, so I might give them a try.


    Still haven't ordered it yet, gonna do that in the next few weeks. I do realize I can just experiment when the frame arrives, but my mind won't rest until I get some more feedback on this issue. Hopefully someone can answer this question.

    Thanks!
    I had a WI 170mm in mine when I first built it. I love the crank, but with the 122mm BB it needed to clear the chainstays I'd get enough flex to still rub the stay a bit under full torque.
    As to crankarm length, I'm now using a 175mm XT set, and don't think it's any discernible advantage over the 170s I've used for the last 10 years.

    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

  50. #750
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    sslos- Do you notice if you rock strike more with the 175's over the 170's?

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