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  1. #1201
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    Quote Originally Posted by azn lex View Post
    Has anyone built one up with around a $1500 budget. I'm very interested in building my first 29er with this frame, but am a little afraid that I'm looking at a frame that will make my build go way past my budget.
    Like someone else mentioned, depends on the build. Rigid or suspension fork? SS or multigeared? Hydro v mech discs?

    I originally built up my N9 rigid SS for ~$1100 (mix of new and CL parts); everything except for BB7 levers/calipers/rotors and saddle, which I had. I've since bought a Reba and gone 1 x 9 (I had the cassette, derailer and shifter, bought another used wheelset/tires), so in it's current incarnation I probably spent ~$1600-1700. The evolution took place over 6-7 months. If you're more patient than me you might be able to save some considerable money; but it does take some diligence and luck to find those deals.
    I guess if I didn't have the parts I did, it'd be closer to $2000 for the current version. Do you have a current bike you can scavenge parts off of?

  2. #1202
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronJ View Post
    .
    Behold, as it currently sits. Short stems and wide bars are the way to go, and I will never go back.
    Nice! Looks like a big dirt jumper. Here, here on wide and short!
    Michael

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  3. #1203
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    damn you guys, this thread makes me spend money
    finished the bike yesterday, and did a ride
    love how it handles

    Sweetness...
    Michael

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  4. #1204
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronJ View Post
    Wheels are temporary and will be replaced this winter when funds allow, OR when somebody buys my I9s in the classifieds and I get a bit of extra cash. Seat goes up on trail rides, down for playing around on (think looooong manuals and air time). I tore it up on 20" bikes for years, and am now getting back into that "style" of riding.

    Behold, as it currently sits. Short stems and wide bars are the way to go, and I will never go back.
    I really like your set up. I have been riding standard cross country geometry 29ers for years and though I've liked them they lacked that fun factor of the nimble 9.
    I'd like to try the shorter stem and wider bar combo but am afraid i'll be too cramped at 6'2" on my large nimble. I'm at 90mm right though and I do like an upright position. Maybe I'll just try it.
    How does it affect your climbing?

  5. #1205
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    if you go with a wider bar , it shifts your weight forward

  6. #1206
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    Quote Originally Posted by WVJon75 View Post
    I really like your set up. I have been riding standard cross country geometry 29ers for years and though I've liked them they lacked that fun factor of the nimble 9.
    I'd like to try the shorter stem and wider bar combo but am afraid i'll be too cramped at 6'2" on my large nimble. I'm at 90mm right though and I do like an upright position. Maybe I'll just try it.
    How does it affect your climbing?
    I just switched from a 100mm stem to a 70mm. Love it. Not cramped, same climbing, better handling, more fun.

    Same bars 685mm.

    May try some 720s.

  7. #1207
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    I May try some 720s.
    Do it!
    Michael

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  8. #1208
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajdonner View Post
    Like someone else mentioned, depends on the build. Rigid or suspension fork? SS or multigeared? Hydro v mech discs?

    I originally built up my N9 rigid SS for ~$1100 (mix of new and CL parts); everything except for BB7 levers/calipers/rotors and saddle, which I had. I've since bought a Reba and gone 1 x 9 (I had the cassette, derailer and shifter, bought another used wheelset/tires), so in it's current incarnation I probably spent ~$1600-1700. The evolution took place over 6-7 months. If you're more patient than me you might be able to save some considerable money; but it does take some diligence and luck to find those deals.
    I guess if I didn't have the parts I did, it'd be closer to $2000 for the current version. Do you have a current bike you can scavenge parts off of?

    I have a geared 26er HT that I will probably keep for a little while. If I end up going with this frame, I would build it up as a single speed first and try that out. For more demanding climbs, I'll have my geared 26er until I either get used to SS or save up more money for a rear derailed.

  9. #1209
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    .....

    I have a raceface d2 50mm stem and Salsa whammy bars (780mm i think). The bars felt really different, but in a good way. Having su h a wide bar really changes the feeling of the bike, and it is noticeably easier to breathe with an open chest. Sounds like BS, but I swear it's true. I wanted to try a riser on there to lift the front end even more, but the bars I had were 680s and I couldn't stand it. Once I got used to wide bars, "normal" bars felt awkward. The ONLY downside is that, at high speed, I have to be careful about those tight trees. As far as climbing goes, I don't notice any drawbacks. I pedal the bike and it goes up the hill. It climbs just fine. I am no racer type, I hate climbs, always have, always will. I just deal with them.

    I've had quite a few nice bikes in the last few years... this one is by far my favorite. I'll be putting on a dropper post and wider wheels/ rubber. I may try an even shorter stem, or riser bars in the 750+ width... but it rides so nice as is.

    This pic shows the bar/ stem set up. I have ESI grips, which are just out of view. Just shows how wide they are.

    ~RollingStoned~
    In Memory of all Pit Bulls Killed by Ignorance and Fear
    Typed with my thumbs=excus ethe typos

  10. #1210
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    I love wide bars. Better leverage and better control. I had 800mm bar on it with 80mm stem. I cut it down to about 770mm. I may go down to 750mm, but it feels pretty good where it's at now. Unless you're shooting between trees, go as wide as you can.

  11. #1211
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    .....

    Go as wide as you can? AGREED!!!!!!
    ~RollingStoned~
    In Memory of all Pit Bulls Killed by Ignorance and Fear
    Typed with my thumbs=excus ethe typos

  12. #1212
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    "I wanted to try a riser on there to lift the front end even more"

    And here I am trying to figure out a way to lower my front end perfect example of different strokes for....

    If your looking for a riser bar the answer pro taper comes in a 1/2 and 1 inch I believe. Great price for a wide riser (780mm) Ebay!

    Finally got my cranks! Hoping to take her on her inaugural ride this weekend. After adjustments with the new flat bars and taking into account fork sag. My grips will be just under 1 3/4 inches above seat height, considering this will be an all mountain ride I'm pretty happy with that. I may be able to get another 1/2 inch out of that DMR stem but without trying it I'm not sure...
    Michael

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  13. #1213
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    Thanks for the explanation Aaronj. I really want to try the wider bars and shorter stem. I am with you on hating the climbs. I just do them to get to the downhill. I want a bike that is as fun as possible on the downs. I am not too worried about the front end coming up because by the time its that steep I don't care to climb anyway...lol.

  14. #1214
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    second ride today , and I am loving it even more
    made 2 small changes
    flipped my stem so it is negative 6 degrees instead of the positive it was initially
    also added 5 psi to the rear tire
    made a big difference
    handles even better now
    this bike loves to lean

  15. #1215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    also added 5 psi to the rear tire
    made a big difference
    handles even better now
    What PSI are you running? On my 26er I settled at about 28 or so PSI F/R, with Kevlar 2.2 GEAX tires. Provided decent cush and I didn't notice any detrimental handling traits. Interesting that 30 PSI on these 29er Ardent 2.4 seems really hard! Maybe because their tubeless... I think to mimic a similar feel in the squeeze test I'll have to lower the ardents down to almost 20!
    Michael

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  16. #1216
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    rear i am running a 2.25 racing ralph evo
    tubless
    @ 30 psi
    beginning of the ride it was set at 25 psi and felt a bit sluggish
    when i pumped it up, seemed to roll faster

  17. #1217
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    .....

    No prob! Ain't nothin that I can't climb on this bike that I could on any of my other bikes... This is the build it replaced, and let's just say it was a VERY good climber.

    I am fully aware of how geometry affects handling, etc... but the reality is that you will adjust to the different handling characteristics and you can and will still be able to pedal up the hills.

    Just the facts... I mean, my 2¢
    ~RollingStoned~
    In Memory of all Pit Bulls Killed by Ignorance and Fear
    Typed with my thumbs=excus ethe typos

  18. #1218
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    ... Interesting that 30 PSI on these 29er Ardent 2.4 seems really hard! Maybe because their tubeless... I think to mimic a similar feel in the squeeze test I'll have to lower the ardents down to almost 20!
    I have also heard this before. It has a lot of volume, and slightly stiffer sidewalls I think.

    My Ardent up front is at ~24psi with a tube. Can't go lower. Don't like to be higher.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  19. #1219
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    My Ardent 2.4 up front is 22-23psi (according to my crappy pump gauge). I usually just go by pinch test, and as long as it's got a decent amount of give, I'm good.

    AaronJ - I actually like to climb and my Niner is much worse at it than the N9. But I'm running SS on both. Niner loses traction in places the N9 just grips and rips up. Niner, however, is much lighter and the less steep/rolling hill sections feels faster because of that.

  20. #1220
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    Initial review:

    One final derailleur check. Firing up headlamp full blast, head down to the park near by. Drop-in a steep grassy embankment, drop the post and carve around 4 tightly spaced giant oaks. Coast to the other end of the park at high speed without pedaling. Turn around pop the post up and climb back up thinking I should be pedaling a higher gear. At base of steepest section engage fork lock stand-up to push and start laughing uncontrollably... The closest thing to warp drive on a mountain bike....



    [ATTACH][/ATTACH]
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-download.jpg  

    Michael

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  21. #1221
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post


    Initial review:

    One final derailleur check. Firing up headlamp full blast, head down to the park near by. Drop-in a steep grassy embankment, drop the post and carve around 4 tightly spaced giant oaks. Coast to the other end of the park at high speed without pedaling. Turn around pop the post up and climb back up thinking I should be pedaling a higher gear. At base of steepest section engage fork lock stand-up to push and start laughing uncontrollably... The closest thing to warp drive on a mountain bike....



    [ATTACH][/ATTACH]
    Looks great...what brand seat post is it?

  22. #1222
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    I swapped out the carbon Niner fork for a 100mm Reba RLT and couldn't be happier with the handling.

    I was expecting to loose some steering precision, but it seems to have gotten even better!


  23. #1223
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Looks great...what brand seat post is it?
    Not mine, but it's a Gravity Dropper. X-Fusion also makes a 27.7 dropper post. I have the X-Fusion HiLo on mine, and I love it.

  24. #1224
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    Yup Gravity Dropper Turbo, there is a significant weight penalty to these posts but I couldn't live without it. I lucked out and found this one used for a 100 bucks... I could drop over 1/2 a pound using a normal seat post!

    My build weighs 29.19 lbs as is (small frame) the MRP chain guide will add a bit more.

    More details to come.
    Michael

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  25. #1225
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    that bike looks

    Reeeeally familiar. Very nice my man!
    ~RollingStoned~
    In Memory of all Pit Bulls Killed by Ignorance and Fear
    Typed with my thumbs=excus ethe typos

  26. #1226
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    I love this ride.

    The rest of the story...

    What I learned as a first time bike builder:

    1. Not all torque wrenchs measure torque in both forward and reverse...
    2. Cable kits come with one long and one short cable...
    3. N9 Drop outs bolts have no spec and go course side to frame.
    4. User tutorials for installation and setup of certain items (BB7's) are better than manufacturers info.
    5. Manufacturers lie about part weights (I assumed so but hey others may not.)
    6. Add to build list specialty tools required to install certain parts (BB, Cassette)
    7. Don't build when your tired...
    8. MTBR Forums and its members rock.

    I'm sure I've missed a bunch.

    Thanks for all the help!

    Bike details:

    Current Weight 29.19 lbs

    N9 Small
    Wheels: Sun Ringle Charger Comps (soon to be swapped out for Canfield's)
    Forks: 2012 Marzocchi 44 TST2 29 QR15
    Brakes: Avid BB7, Speed Dial SL
    Cranks: SRAM X9 170mm GXP
    Chainring: MRP Bling Ring 28T
    Chainguide: MRP 1.X Guide ST Mount - Black (not yet installed)
    RD Shifter: SRAM X.9 10-Speed Rear Trigger Shifter
    RD: Sram X9 Rear Derailleur 10 speed medium
    Chain: SRAM PC-1070 10 SPEED
    Cassette: Sram X9 Cassette PG 1070 11 36
    SP: Gravity Dropper Turbo
    SP Clamp: Thompson 29.8
    HS: Cane creek 110
    Stem: Truvativ 60mm 7 Degree Flipped
    Bars: Answer Pro Taper 780mm 12mm rise 9 degree sweep (soon to be upgraded to Syntace 800mm 0rise 12 degree sweep)
    Pedals: AMP
    Seat: Spec. Ergo
    Grips: Ergon GA1
    Cables: Ripcord's
    Tires:Ardent 2.4 setup tubeless

    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-2012-09-23_17-42-15_28.jpg
    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-2012-09-23_17-42-43_798.jpg
    Michael

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  27. #1227
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    Looks great

  28. #1228
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    Just wanted to mention I just posted a fork in the classifieds that would work well for a small or medium Nimble (steerer may be a little too short for L/XL) - 2012 reba rlt with 15mm axle and straight steerer.

  29. #1229
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    I just tried a 70mm stem on my large nimble with a 100mm fork and I must say I think you folks who promote the short stem wide bar combo are definately onto something here. My lbs was nice enough to let me borrow the stem from their parts bin to try it.
    The difference from 90mm to 70mm was very noticable. I only rode on the street and over a few small obstacles but I get the impression that the front wheel will be better weighted with a shorter stem and the steering feels more natural and less floppy.
    I really like the upright positon this gives, makes the bike feel more like a big bmx. I can see how the slacker head angle would work better with a shorter stem.
    I'll give this a try on the trails later in the week and if I like it there I'm gonna keep it.
    Last edited by WVJon75; 09-25-2012 at 07:52 PM.

  30. #1230
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    How well are the chains staying on the 1x9 and 1x10 setups without a a chain tensioner? .

  31. #1231
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    Perfectly so far... No chain drop either makes me wonderif I actually need the chain guide
    Last edited by geraldooka; 09-25-2012 at 08:00 PM.
    Michael

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  32. #1232
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    Your trails must not be too rough because without a chain guide mine will drop on most downhills around here.

  33. #1233
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    my old hardtail would drop too
    didn't want to take a chance, reused my chain guide

  34. #1234
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    Quote Originally Posted by WVJon75 View Post
    Your trails must not be too rough because without a chain guide mine will drop on most downhills around here.
    We'd all get a chuckle around here on that comment... I suppose I should have said "yet" that X9 RD spring is pretty stiff still though after all its only been a 4 or 5 rides so far, though I've been riding the darn thing every chance I get it is SO MUCH FUN!!!

    I highly encourage anyone to come on over the Vancouver Island we have some of the finest mountain biking trails anywhere and a wonderfully supportive community here. MSG me up if your up this way!

    Tonight's ride at the local MTB skills park moments before bailing hard (even 29er's are no match for deep loose dust over hard pack.)

    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-1.jpg
    Michael

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  35. #1235
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    How well are the chains staying on the 1x9 and 1x10 setups without a a chain tensioner? .
    With no guide on my 1x10, I was having a drop every other ride or so. Not a big deal, but enough of a pain that I decided to go with a Paul Chain Keeper.

  36. #1236
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    1x9 No Chain Guide

    I'm running a X9 medium cage without a guide. Chain came off twice on the first ride, but after getting the chain the right length, no issues. Too long and it will come off, too short and it won't shift to the largest cog. You have to experiment. I used an old chain to dial it in then shortened the new chain to that length.

    By the way, this bike rocks. Makes me want to buy another to build as a single speed.

  37. #1237
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    We'd all get a chuckle around here on that comment... I suppose I should have said "yet" that X9 RD spring is pretty stiff still though after all its only been a 4 or 5 rides so far, though I've been riding the darn thing every chance I get it is SO MUCH FUN!!!

    I highly encourage anyone to come on over the Vancouver Island we have some of the finest mountain biking trails anywhere and a wonderfully supportive community here. MSG me up if your up this way!

    Tonight's ride at the local MTB skills park moments before bailing hard (even 29er's are no match for deep loose dust over hard pack.)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    No offense...lol. Sounds like you have are in a great mountainbiking area there.

  38. #1238
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    It ain't pretty but it gets the job done. I wanted to run 1 x 9 with a bashguard and some sort of chain keeper with my RF Evolve crankset and long cage SRAM X9 RD. CanBros recommended the MRP 1x guide installed high, just above the bashguard, but the chain still dropped/got hung up occasionally. I took off the outer plate of the 1x, dropped it down and haven't had an issue since.


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    So what are my chances someone wants to move on to a different build and sell me their Medium frame for a good price?

  40. #1240
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    I could be talked out of mine...

  41. #1241
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    I'm wondering if I got the right size. My frame is a large and I'm 6'2" with long arms and a 36" inseam with my riding shoes on. I got the notion to try a short stem (70mm) but it feels a bit short. A 90mm stem feels just right. Also my seat is about 4 inches higher than my bars. Should I have a longer TT so I can run a shorter stem? I don't see how you can just throw a shorter stem on with your normal TT length.
    If I decide on an xl frame I will have a white L for sale.

  42. #1242
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    Quote Originally Posted by WVJon75 View Post
    I'm wondering if I got the right size. My frame is a large and I'm 6'2" with long arms and a 36" inseam with my riding shoes on. I got the notion to try a short stem (70mm) but it feels a bit short. A 90mm stem feels just right. Also my seat is about 4 inches higher than my bars. Should I have a longer TT so I can run a shorter stem? I don't see how you can just throw a shorter stem on with your normal TT length.
    If I decide on an xl frame I will have a white L for sale.
    Your issue is the same reason I went to a XL.
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  43. #1243
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    Already thinking upgrades... Installed the new Syntace 800mm flat bars love em. Been a bit underwhelmed by my braking ability and thinking I should have opted for a 203/185 combo vs the 160/160. I can stop but its not as easy as the tiddly wheeled (I love that line, thanks Wobbem) bikes.

    What rotor combos are you guys running?
    Michael

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  44. #1244
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Already thinking upgrades... Installed the new Syntace 800mm flat bars love em. Been a bit underwhelmed by my braking ability and thinking I should have opted for a 203/185 combo vs the 160/160. I can stop but its not as easy as the tiddly wheeled (I love that line, thanks Wobbem) bikes.

    What rotor combos are you guys running?
    Ditch the BB7s and get '12 Shimano XT brakes.

    They rock!!!

  45. #1245
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    Is anyone having issues with the paint chipping down to the metal super easy? Mine had "rock marks" on the seat tube, seat stays, down tube, from rocks being thrown up from the tires, and the cable rub really hurts this bike quick! I have last years orange one by the way and it is not very old.

  46. #1246
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    Ya the paint job is not of stellar quality. The paint job on my old rocky mountain hammer is much tougher.

    It was suggested by another owner to apply a hard wax coat to the frame. Haven't done this yet... I figure its a mountain bike I can always touch up spots with a color matched enamel.
    Michael

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  47. #1247
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    Ditch the BB7s and get '12 Shimano XT brakes.

    They rock!!!
    But I'm a luddite... I appreciate the recommendation (I'm certain that XT's do rock) but I'm not that unhappy with the BB7's In fact I quite like them, setup was dead easy, their clean, simple maintenance and the SD7 levers are awesome.
    Last edited by geraldooka; 09-30-2012 at 09:38 PM.
    Michael

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  48. #1248
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    But I'm a luddite...
    A luddite with disc brakes on your mtb?
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  49. #1249
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Ya the paint job is not of stellar quality. The paint job on my old rocky mountain hammer is much tougher.

    It was suggested by another owner to apply a hard wax coat to the frame. Haven't done this yet... I figure its a mountain bike I can always touch up spots with a color matched enamel.
    That is a shame, with the rear of my bike up by the seat stay and seat tube meeting starting to have 8-9 chips all the way down to the metal I dont think this bike will last as many seasons as I want it to without going and getting a new powder coat job done on it. Or I can let is keep going and go with the "surface of the moon" look .

  50. #1250
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    I ride through some chunk/rocks and haven't had issues with my paint job. Maybe you should try a clear bra film on the underside.

  51. #1251
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    Clear film is a good idea. There are kits available in clear for chainstay and cable rub areas as well. With that much chipping already I would just touch up the spots.

    Re Luddite, it is a hard tail, with mechanical brakes... Albeit with 29inch wheels and modern geo. Maybe that makes me an "enlightened Luddite"
    Last edited by geraldooka; 10-01-2012 at 10:53 AM.
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  52. #1252
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    That is a shame, with the rear of my bike up by the seat stay and seat tube meeting starting to have 8-9 chips all the way down to the metal I dont think this bike will last as many seasons as I want it to without going and getting a new powder coat job done on it. Or I can let is keep going and go with the "surface of the moon" look .
    Would love to see pictures of the damage. If you've got damage by the y-yoke on top of the rear stays, it sounds like you've got rocks and debris getting stuck in your tires/mud and then striking the frame.
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    Quote Originally Posted by WVJon75 View Post
    I'm wondering if I got the right size. My frame is a large and I'm 6'2" with long arms and a 36" inseam with my riding shoes on. I got the notion to try a short stem (70mm) but it feels a bit short. A 90mm stem feels just right. Also my seat is about 4 inches higher than my bars. Should I have a longer TT so I can run a shorter stem? I don't see how you can just throw a shorter stem on with your normal TT length.
    If I decide on an xl frame I will have a white L for sale.
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  54. #1254
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyMilkExpired View Post
    Would love to see pictures of the damage. If you've got damage by the y-yoke on top of the rear stays, it sounds like you've got rocks and debris getting stuck in your tires/mud and then striking the frame.
    Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics it is all I have. But here you go. anyone else seeing this? The bike is not even a year old and ride time is split between this and 3 other bikes.
    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1349121888.561920.jpgCanfield Nimble 9 build thread!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1349121905.139029.jpgCanfield Nimble 9 build thread!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1349121936.852247.jpgCanfield Nimble 9 build thread!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1349121956.067668.jpg


    I tapped that

  55. #1255
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    Clearly you've got lots of wear spots. How many miles have you logged on it? My frame looks pristine aside from some rubber transfer from my shoes.

    Brings up a good topic, how many mils is the coating?
    - Canfield Nimble 9 - Retired
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  56. #1256
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    Between 300-400 miles. Just replaced the racing ralph tire on the rear and it was not warn all the way out so Im just guessing on distance.

  57. #1257
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    Re Mils I'm guessing here as I have not checked this (I do have a mil gauge once I get a thru chip I'll check it out!) However as I deal with coatings in my day to day job I'm thinking around 10 at most. I'm not sure its the mils that's important but the hardness of the coating.

    The paint seams almost soft. Whereas the paint on my RM is very hard. On a recent bail the handle bars managed to swing all the way around and the end of my brake caliper (I think it was that) hit the top tube where it appeared to almost "push" the paint. Fortunately not all the way through... A dab with a colour matched enamel will fix those up just fine.
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  58. #1258
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    Wow... that is some bad chipping. Not seeing anything like that on my blue Nimble.

    My frame probably has about the same amount of ride time as yours, although I don't get too many rock strikes on the trails where I usually ride it.

  59. #1259
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    AOK - I've got a blue Nimble, too, with no issues. (Bought early 2011). Wonder if they changed painters?

  60. #1260
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    Maybe I'm late to the game, but I found out this past weekend my 2011 blue Nimble glows in the dark!

    No paint issues on mine by the way.

  61. #1261
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    I wish I didnt have any issues. I did send "The Bros" a message on facebook asking if they had any color match touch up paint. They said they would check and asked for my address, so hopefully that means there is some on the way. Just wish it was not so stinking soft of paint.

  62. #1262
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    My feet have rubbed the paint off the chanstays and seat stays.

  63. #1263
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    The paint on my frame is all beat up. I'm considering a new powder coat this winter. I don't think there is anything wrong with my paint; I'm just really hard on the bike.
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  64. #1264
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    The paint on my frame is all beat up. I'm considering a new powder coat this winter. I don't think there is anything wrong with my paint; I'm just really hard on the bike.
    Just means you're using it for what it was made!

  65. #1265
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Wheels: Sun Ringle Charger Comps (soon to be swapped out for Canfield's)

    Brakes: Avid BB7, Speed Dial SL
    I think you would be better off the keep your current wheels and upgrade to hydraulic brakes. From that set up it looks like you will be riding down more than up, and having hydraulic braking power will be nice. BB7 is a great mechanical brake, but they are no match to a decent set of hydraulic brakes. The Canfiled wheels will likely be heavier than your current wheels too.

  66. #1266
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    There's nothing special about Canfield wheels. Pretty heavy at 2000+ grams. Add in a few more $$ and get Flows.

  67. #1267
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    Can anyone with gear chime in or snap a pic of how you ran your cables down the top tube. Mine on has a "slot" for one just wondering what everyone was doing as far as zip ties or what? Thanks.

  68. #1268
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    Can snap a pick later but yup just zip tie.

    Re wheels. I think the Canfield wheels are much better than the SR's they are super quiet, that alone was worth the change the SR's are noisy to the point of distraction. They run soooo smoothly I believe the bearings are of better quality and they are lighter to boot. I highly recommend them over the SR's, Flows were too expensive to import to Canada. Plus I thing the hubs were of similar quality to the SR's. Sean gave me a great deal.

    Re brakes, nah, I'm good, the new larger rotors and tweaked levers give me the one finger breaking I was after and I love having a mech bike. Ill get the hydros when/if I ever get one of those gee whiz dual squishies.
    Last edited by geraldooka; 10-19-2012 at 05:23 PM.
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  69. #1269
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    There's nothing special about Canfield wheels. Pretty heavy at 2000+ grams. Add in a few more $$ and get Flows.
    They are very strong.

  70. #1270
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    Added a bit of new bling:



    Lighter than the thomson, prettier, easier to adjust. Not sure yet if there's anything to the material yet. Despite it being just a post, Eriksen does beautiful work and was really easy to work with!

    I really need some fatter rims. A set of Flows (or P35s?) is the next purchase most likely.
    Last edited by rob1035; 11-06-2012 at 05:21 AM.

  71. #1271
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    Added a bit of new bling:



    Lighter than the thomson, prettier, easier to adjust. Not sure yet if there's anything to the material yet. Despite it being just a post, Eriksen does beautiful work and was really easy to work with!

    I really need some fatter rims. A set of Flows (or P35s?) is the next purchase most likely.
    The post will make a difference in the ride quality. They are buttery smooth compared to a Thomson. I had the straight version on my Nimble before I swapped it for a dropper post.

  72. #1272
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    So I put some gears on the old SS nimble nine day before yesterday. It feels like a whole new bike and I have a feeling that it will really increase my range on this bike. I was stuck at the around 50 miles range before my legs went into the F you mode. I really like how I can choose either.

  73. #1273
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    Look what the UPS dropped off!



    I'll post pics after I install it on my 9...

  74. #1274
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    Didn't I read earlier in the thread that XTR's aren't recommended due to chainstay clearance? Could be wrong. Nice cranks, though.

  75. #1275
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    Didn't I read earlier in the thread that XTR's aren't recommended due to chainstay clearance? Could be wrong. Nice cranks, though.
    These are 170mm arms (spin-spin), so they should be fine...

    If not :banghead:

  76. #1276
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    Yes some have mentioned XTR's are an issue. I think I remember 1 person said they worked.

  77. #1277
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    does anyone know if the ardent 2.4 fits when you have a chain guide on? Also what stem was the bike designed around?

  78. #1278
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    Lighter than the thomson, prettier, easier to adjust. Not sure yet if there's anything to the material yet. Despite it being just a post, Eriksen does beautiful work and was really easy to work with!
    Just put one on my N9 this week. I have had it for a while, but it was on another bike. Definitely smooths out the ride a bit and looks great!

  79. #1279
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    Quote Originally Posted by classrc View Post
    Look what the UPS dropped off!



    I'll post pics after I install it on my 9...
    Is that a after market chain ring and if so what size?
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  80. #1280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logover View Post
    Is that a after market chain ring and if so what size?
    It's an On-One Stainless ring, seen here:

    http://shop.titusti.com/product-p/crooss.htm

    It's a 33t ring. It's pretty cheap and seems well made. Thought I'd give it a try

  81. #1281
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    does anyone know if the ardent 2.4 fits when you have a chain guide on? Also what stem was the bike designed around?
    2.4 will fit with a 28t Blin gRing and the MRP guide. However I'm sorry to say that without modification the MRP guide will not work with the seat post mount. If MRP provided the ability to rotate the angle of the sliding bracket back then it would work. I plan to machine the angle into it to mount it.

    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-pa251172.jpg
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  82. #1282
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    Didn't I read earlier in the thread that XTR's aren't recommended due to chainstay clearance? Could be wrong. Nice cranks, though.
    The 170mm M980 cranks clear by miles... :what:



    Full shot...


  83. #1283
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    Sweet! I'm now on the hunt for some 170's.

  84. #1284
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    Sweet good to know. I will keep my eyes out for a good deal on some.

  85. #1285
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Sweet good to know. I will keep my eyes out for a good deal on some.
    Jenson USA has the 3x10 170mm set for $349, that's where I got mine from...

    I had to replace my RF Deus cranks - I cracked the LH arm at the spindle...

  86. #1286
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    To be perfectly honest, I can't tell a huge difference in ride quality (vs the Thomson Elite it replaced). There's maybe a slight improvement, but its so slight it could be placebo effect. Maybe I'll be able to tell on longer rides (or maybe not), but I still really like the post. Looks boss for sure.

    Last edited by rob1035; 11-06-2012 at 04:38 PM.

  87. #1287
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    To be perfectly honest, I can't tell a huge difference in ride quality (vs the Thomson Elite it replaced). There's maybe a slight improvement, but its so slight it could be placebo effect. Maybe I'll be able to tell on longer rides (or maybe not), but I still really like the post. Looks boss for sure.

    Put the Thomson back on for a ride, and you will feel it. The difference is amazing.
    Where in MD are you? I am seeing more and more Nimble9's in MD.

  88. #1288
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    This may be old news, but Canfield has medium Nimble 9's back in stock. I've been waiting for one since July. Just ordered a lime green. Can't wait to get cracking!!!!

  89. #1289
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    After a few more rides, I'm starting to feel a slight improvement. Its not 100mm of travel, but it reduces fatigue a bit over a few hours.


    I'm just north of DC.

  90. #1290
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    2.4 will fit with a 28t Blin gRing and the MRP guide. However I'm sorry to say that without modification the MRP guide will not work with the seat post mount. If MRP provided the ability to rotate the angle of the sliding bracket back then it would work. I plan to machine the angle into it to mount it.
    Why not return or sell it and get the correct one (direct mount) ? The direct mount is lighter too.

  91. #1291
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    Already tried it, won't work with a 28t... I did ask them to confirm this one but they were wrong... I may sell or return it and just get the Paul's unit.
    Michael

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  92. #1292
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    Helium guide works with 28t bling ring

  93. #1293
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    2.4 will fit with a 28t Blin gRing and the MRP guide.
    Take a Shimano ZEE Derailleur and you won't need an ugly chain guide any more



    Front is a Surly SSP chainring which works fine with a 10x chain

  94. #1294
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    I finished building my small orange N-9 yesterday. Single speed, with a 100 mm fork. Would have gone 1x9 but need to buy cables and figure out a chain guide first. I may end up just using a bashwich instead. All I had to use is a 110mm stem, so I'll probably need a shorter stem too. Really looking forward to using the bike in the woods here.

    No photos but there's plenty of other examples in this thread so really you're not missing much
    Chasing bears through the woods drunk with a dull hatchet is strongly not advised

  95. #1295
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    Take a Shimano ZEE Derailleur and you won't need an ugly chain guide
    How so?
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  96. #1296
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    Helium guide works with 28t bling ring
    Thanks for the tip! I'll add that to my list seems similar to the Paul's unit.
    Michael

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  97. #1297
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    How so?
    It has a damper built in to significantly reduce or eliminate chain slap.

    "The Zee RD-M640 features Shadow Plus technology proven to reduce chain slap, drop and impact noise and the 10-speed short cage RD’s low profile tucks safely below the cassette cogs. With two spec options that enable a typical MTB cassette (11-32,11-34,11-36) or a close ratio road cassette (11-23,11-25,11-28), Zee is ready to handle the needs of enduro and DH racers. 10-speed also offers complete compatibility with Dyna-Sys MTB product and Shimano’s latest chain and cassette technology."

    2013 Shimano Zee Shadow Plus Rear Derailleur - 2013 Shimano Zee and Saint Groups - Mountain Biking Pictures - Vital MTB
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  98. #1298
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    I might have to check out the Zee deal. Seems like a different way to go, wonder if it works.

  99. #1299
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    Cool, did not know about that. Also wonder if it works. Not to mention compatibility with my x9 shifter... Which I'd rather not change.
    Michael

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  100. #1300
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    zee derailleur will not work with a x9 shifter

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