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  1. #1101
    AOK
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    How well does your chain stay on with the 1x10 without a tensioner?
    No issues on the ride today. Using a med cage rear dérailleur, FWIW.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  2. #1102
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    N9 Reborn!

    After stealing most of the parts from my N9 to go on a Spearfish build back in the spring, my N9 has been laying in the garage in pieces all summer. I seriously thought about selling the frame, but just couldn't bring myself to part with such a fun bike.

    Finally managed to put it back together, mostly by gradually upgrading/swapping parts on the Spearfish. Version 2 has more or less the same spec as version 1. Major difference is a swap from 2x10 to 1x10 using a MRP 28T bling ring. Also finally got around to putting on some glow in the dark Ourys to match the glow in the dark frame.

    First ride was today. Loads of fun on the first half, nursing a flat back home for the second half (doh!). Still it was nice to get out on the N9 again and I am really looking forward to many more rides in the future.
    Me likey that blue colour.

  3. #1103
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    Swapped the Niner carbon fork for a Fox F29, rebuilt and set at 110mm by Suspension Experts of Asheville, NC (Suspension Experts Home Page); swapped the tiny (~1.9") Mountain King "2.2" on the rear for a Geax Gato 2.3. The fork raised the BB 3/4", should be a lot of fun on the trail!


  4. #1104
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    Here's mine! I love my nimble 9!

    Running a set of I9's/Flows now after I taco'd my front wheel in July. Also, the blue hope collar is gone, the hollow bolt sheared off when I tried to tighten the seat post after it kept slipping. The cheap-o collar I have now works just fine!

    Build:

    Reba RLT at max travel (measures a little over 100mm?)
    Cane Creek 110
    Cane Creek bar ends
    Easton Monkeylite riser bar
    Thomson seatpost
    Fizik Aliante saddle
    Stylo OCT cranks
    Avid BB7's
    20T Endless cog
    Ardent 2.4/Crossmark 2.1

    I have a Manitou Tower Pro in the mail as I type! 120mm and 20mm thru-axle!

    I acquired a Vassago bandersnatch frame in a trade and was going to build it up as a geared bike, but after getting used to how well the Nimble 9 handles, I'm not sure I can ride anything else. Might be time to start saving for a 2nd Nimble 9 frame!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-6.8.12-001.jpg  

    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-6.8.12-004.jpg  


  5. #1105
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    HC100 write-up

    In case anyone's interested, here's the write-up I did for the High Cascades 100- so far, Sean Gollub and I think it's the first 100 mile race done on a Nimble 9!


    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

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  6. #1106
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    Nice write up. Love the N9.

  7. #1107
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    Am I being anal?

    Hey folks parts are flying in for my new N9 build. One of the items to arrive is the MRP Bling Ring 28T.

    I need your advice. I noticed some damage on 3 of the teeth the two worst are in the photos below. Am I being anal here? Seems for a $70 ring this thing should be better than this...

    What do you think?

    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-br1.jpg
    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-br2.jpg
    Last edited by geraldooka; 08-16-2012 at 08:39 PM.

  8. #1108
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    Not anal. Return it.

  9. #1109
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    I would send it back, unless you really need to finish the bike. Some times i use parts that are flawed or damaged just because i cannot stand half finished projects, even though i have tons around the house right now.
    2009 Fuji Tahoe Pro 29er
    1982 Fuji Supreme
    200? Cannondale Prophet
    2011 Focus Mares AX3

  10. #1110
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    MRP is sending a replacement. Shout out to Billie at MRP, great customer service.

    Cheers,

    Michael

    Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
    Michael

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  11. #1111
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    Great service for sure! Did they let you keep the old one?
    konahonzo

  12. #1112
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    Ha, no... They are providing a return mailer to send the damaged one back.


    Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
    Michael

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  13. #1113
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    I like the paint job.

  14. #1114
    AOK
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    Anyone running a Paul's chain keeper on their N9?

    I was thinking about getting one, but I am concerned that the N9's offset seat tube vs. BB design may not play well. I think using the Paul's extension would work, but I would prefer the cleaner look of just the chain keeper (plus saving the extra $30).

  15. #1115
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    Anyone running a Paul's chain keeper on their N9?

    I was thinking about getting one, but I am concerned that the N9's offset seat tube vs. BB design may not play well. I think using the Paul's extension would work, but I would prefer the cleaner look of just the chain keeper (plus saving the extra $30).
    MRP makes a direct mount chainguide that works slick. I have one on my Yelli Screamy.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  16. #1116
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    FYI...Crankset and chainring combo's.

    The Sram X9 spiderless with a HBC chainring fits with plenty of room. I'm using a 175mm crank and 32t chainring.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  17. #1117
    AOK
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    MRP makes a direct mount chainguide that works slick. I have one on my Yelli Screamy.
    Unfortunately I am running at 28T ring, which I think is too small for the direct mount MRP guide.

  18. #1118
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    Apparently not. I confirmed and while I haven't started my build yet. Still waiting for the frame, apparently it should work just fine...

    I can let ya know in a few weeks.
    Michael

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  19. #1119
    AOK
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Apparently not. I confirmed and while I haven't started my build yet. Still waiting for the frame, apparently it should work just fine...

    I can let ya know in a few weeks.
    You are referring to the direct mount MRP? The 1x?

  20. #1120
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    If mrp says it will work with a 28t they mean a spiderless 28t. Just making sure you know. I have an mrp over a 30t on a shimano xt crank, but I had to do some dremel work to the guide to get it low enough and have clearance for the chainring bolt tabs.

  21. #1121
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    Yes I should have specified the 28t spiderless... This is for the direct mount 1x.
    Michael

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  22. #1122
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    1x direct mount??

    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Yes I should have specified the 28t spiderless... This is for the direct mount 1x.
    So you are saying this will go low enough with a little Dremel work on a 28 or 30 Bling Ring??
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  23. #1123
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    1x ??

    Has anyone tried this, on the Canfield? Just mount it below the direct mount area on the seat tube. This way you can go lower.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  24. #1124
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    So you are saying this will go low enough with a little Dremel work on a 28 or 30 Bling Ring??
    It goes low enough for my 30t. Not sure if the bracket is long enough for a 28, but if mrp says so...

    No dremeling needed for the bling ring. Just for a 30t on a crank with arms.

  25. #1125
    AOK
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    I emailed MRP and was told only the seat tube mount 1x would work on my N9 with a 28T bling ring.


    Quote Originally Posted by AOK
    I have a Nimble9 frame outfitted with a 28T bling ring. What is my best option for the 1x chain guide? The N9 has a direct mount derailleur, do you have a direct mount model for the 1x guide? Will it work with a 28T ring?
    Quote Originally Posted by MRP
    For your frame you will need the seat tube mount mtb 1X to get the guide low enough to fit a 28t. The other styles of 1X do not have enough adjustment options to get that small.

    Eric Prinster
    Technical Service
    Mountain Racing Products

  26. #1126
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    My concern is with the offset of the seat tube putting the guide way too far forward. But it looks like you could flip the clamp over and try it that way too. Worth a shot.

  27. #1127
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    Hmmm that's bad news. Apparently folks at Canfield run the 1x direct mount with the 28t (at least I asked Sean if it would work) guess I'll see soon enough.
    Michael

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  28. #1128
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    This bike continues to impress me...


  29. #1129
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    Will finish my build tonight, just had to get a race moved from one fork to another. Large frame, Reba fork (soon to be converted up to 120 mm) most of the other parts came from my el mariatchi and of course a Brooks sadle and FU-2 Bars.

    I was relly happy with how the bike went togther and can't wait to get it out on the trails tomorrow.

  30. #1130
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    anyone go from a niner mcr to the nimble 9 ?
    thinking of making the switch

  31. #1131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    anyone go from a niner mcr to the nimble 9 ?
    thinking of making the switch
    I went from a Niner Sir9 to a Canfield Yelli Screamy, I liked the YS so much that I also picked up the Nimble9 too.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  32. #1132
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    how would you compare them?

  33. #1133
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    How does on mount the MRP 1x?

    Hey folks,

    Back from vacation and the N9 frame was waiting for me! I started fiddling with it and went directly to trying to fit the 1X direct mount on there. Now I'd like to think I am pretty adept mechanically... I'm embarrassed to say I can't seem to figure out how to mount this thing... I've looked up photos and it appears it requires the hole on the direct mount tab (on the frame) to be at the top right corner and on the N9 its on the bottom left... What am I missing here?

    Cheers,

    M
    Michael

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  34. #1134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    anyone go from a niner mcr to the nimble 9 ?
    thinking of making the switch
    I've got both. In short, the Niner feels racy and the N9 feels playful. I love the N9 on buff singletracks with little hits here and there. The Niner (21 lbs) is great when you want to just haul, but it's not as confidence inspiring when pointed downhill. If I had to choose one to keep, it'd be the N9. But I like having both to choose from.

    Also, I do like the EBB better.

    Off topic: Are you on HT? Still got your GSR? I regrettably sold my R a few years ago.
    Last edited by phsycle; 09-02-2012 at 07:45 AM.

  35. #1135
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post

    Off topic: Are you on HT? Still got your GSR? I regrettably sold my R a few years ago.

    I sold 98 R #1035 about 6 years ago, had a great time with that car!

  36. #1136
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    I have both an MCR and N9. I like both but am considering a second N9 frame to replace the Niner. The N9 is just so much fun.

  37. #1137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    how would you c9ompare them?
    I'm not techy whatsoever, I just enjoy riding. So I'll give it a try...

    I enjoyed the Niner Sir9, the only reason it was replaced was because I beat the hell out of it and bent the rear triangle. I suspect this will never happen with the N9, it definitely feels to be built a bit more stout. There were two differences that I noticed the most between the Sir9 and the YS and N9. Riding down twisty steep ST there is much less rider input needed to get the N9 and YS around the corner than the Sir9, the rear just follows you around corners much easier. The other difference is that the front on the N9 and YS are much, much easier to loft over trail obstacles than the Sir9, but I don't notice the front end on the YS and N9 wandering much on the climbs. I assume both of these attributes of the YS and N9 are due to the short read end.

    I like to switch up the climbs with seated and standing. On nontechnical standing climbs I'd give a slight nod to the Sir9, but on technical climbing, the YS and N9 excel by far due to the ability to easily loft the front over trail obstacles.

    My Sir9 was built up as a rigid SS. The YS is built up as a 1x9 with a 120mm fork. The N9 is built up as a rigid SS.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  38. #1138
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    Never mind found the adapter... Seems my accessory bag blew up during shipping and I didn't know about the adapter piece.

    Unfortunately it does indeed appear that the 1x direct mount will not work with the 28t as is. Guess I'll need to order the really expensive seat tube adapter... Darn it.

    M
    Last edited by geraldooka; 09-02-2012 at 11:15 PM.
    Michael

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  39. #1139
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    Just built mine up Friday and rode it Saturday. I really like it on the switchbacks and downhills, climbing is great too. It has all of the good qualities that made my Karate Monkey great plus it amends some of the things I didn't like such as downhill performance.

    Mine is white and I;'m thinking of pealing off the decals though. They look cheap to me.I tried to post pics but didn't work. oh well you've seen a white one before.

  40. #1140
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    Quote Originally Posted by WVJon75 View Post

    Denied!
    - Canfield Nimble 9 - Retired
    Niner Rip 9 (2016)
    Canfield Nimble 9 Boost (2017)

  41. #1141
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    That's gonna be a sweet ride.

  42. #1142
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    BB Type

    Hey folks,

    What type of bottom bracket will fit on the N9? I ordered an X9 BB30 but judging by the instructions I suspect these will not work. BTW I'm really not a moron, I had emailed my entire build list to the Bros. prior to ordering up everything for their review, seems I keep running into parts that won't work...

    I can't find anywhere what type of BB will work with the 73mm x 41mm OD shell. Help!

    M
    Michael

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  43. #1143
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Hey folks,

    What type of bottom bracket will fit on the N9? I ordered an X9 BB30 but judging by the instructions I suspect these will not work. BTW I'm really not a moron, I had emailed my entire build list to the Bros. prior to ordering up everything for their review, seems I keep running into parts that won't work...

    I can't find anywhere what type of BB will work with the 73mm x 41mm OD shell. Help!

    M
    The N9 takes a regular old 73mm BB like a Shimano XT.
    konahonzo

  44. #1144
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    The N9 takes a regular old 73mm BB like a Shimano XT.
    Thanks.

    Is this the same as a GXP BB? SRAM doesn't list a 73mm BB...

    M
    Michael

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  45. #1145
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Thanks.

    Is this the same as a GXP BB? SRAM doesn't list a 73mm BB...

    M
    Yes. GXP BBs (as well as Shimano, and most other external bearing BSA BBs,) use the same BB for both 68 and 73mm shells. Just add the spacers which should be included with the BB for 68mm, which you don't have to worry about.
    BB30 is a totally different shell "standard." The guys at Canfield wear many hats, and are a busy, very small group. I doubt that they had a lot of time to pour over the build list, so I can understand why the BB/crank slipped by.

    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

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  46. #1146
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    YS vs N9

    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    I'm not techy whatsoever, I just enjoy riding. So I'll give it a try...

    I enjoyed the Niner Sir9, the only reason it was replaced was because I beat the hell out of it and bent the rear triangle. I suspect this will never happen with the N9, it definitely feels to be built a bit more stout. There were two differences that I noticed the most between the Sir9 and the YS and N9. Riding down twisty steep ST there is much less rider input needed to get the N9 and YS around the corner than the Sir9, the rear just follows you around corners much easier. The other difference is that the front on the N9 and YS are much, much easier to loft over trail obstacles than the Sir9, but I don't notice the front end on the YS and N9 wandering much on the climbs. I assume both of these attributes of the YS and N9 are due to the short read end.

    I like to switch up the climbs with seated and standing. On nontechnical standing climbs I'd give a slight nod to the Sir9, but on technical climbing, the YS and N9 excel by far due to the ability to easily loft the front over trail obstacles.

    My Sir9 was built up as a rigid SS. The YS is built up as a 1x9 with a 120mm fork. The N9 is built up as a rigid SS.
    I have a YS built up as a 2x10, 120mm fork, 2.35 tires. I love the way this bike performs and has been my excusive bike for the last few months. I would be interested in your ride impressions between the YS and the N9. Since both bikes have very similar geometry, from what I can tell beside a tapered head tube it is steel vs aluminum as the big difference. Having never ridden a steel bike does steel make a big difference to how the N9 handles? or does a YS with high volume tires feel the same as a N9? Do they corner different? If you had to choose only one which one would you ride? Thanks for any feed back, I am considering purchasing an N9 but really dont what to have two bikes that are almost identical in handling.

  47. #1147
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    And is it just me or is that rear triangle really compliant? It feels way smoother than my Krate Monkey or Monocog!

  48. #1148
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    It does feel compliant. Probably due to how the seat stays are bent. But anything is smoother than the Monocog--straight gauge steel tubes. I love that bike, but compliant it is not.

  49. #1149
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    Quote Originally Posted by sslos View Post
    Yes. GXP... I doubt that they had a lot of time to pour over the build list, so I can understand why the BB/crank slipped by.

    Los
    Thanks Los!

    RE: Canfield, true enough I'm sure, just frustrating when its staring at me in pieces...

    Patiently waiting for new parts now.

    M
    Michael

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  50. #1150
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    Just signed up for the 24 hours of COS. I shall rock the nimble 9 this year can't wait for the pain to start!


    I tapped that

  51. #1151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    anyone go from a niner mcr to the nimble 9 ?
    thinking of making the switch
    well i just pullled the trigger on a used nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post

    Off topic: Are you on HT? Still got your GSR? I regrettably sold my R a few years ago.
    used to frequent there, sold my integra 6 years ago

  52. #1152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    anyone go from a niner mcr to the nimble 9 ?
    thinking of making the switch
    I did.
    Both geared (3x9). Both rigid (490mm ATC on the MCR, 500mm ATC on the N9).

    The MCR is def. an XC race machine. It is fast and carves.

    The N9 is more of an all-rounder in that I would race it for XC, but I feel much better on hairy descents. The wheelbases of both bikes were the same when all was said and done, but the N9 has a slacker HA and shorter CS's. With the weight biased slightly to the rear it def. has that playful feel and more confidence that you can go down steep. They both climb equally, but I could stay seated steeper on the MCR. The N9 does not wander, though.

    The N9 suits my ever-evolving riding style better as I felt the light XC frame of the MCR was taking a beating for which it was not intended. The N9 is not a harsh ride, though.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  53. #1153
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    Any Love for the White?

    I just got mine because there weren't orange or purple in my size but now I am longing for that Orange.
    Anyone know when the next production run is?

  54. #1154
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Thanks Los!

    RE: Canfield, true enough I'm sure, just frustrating when its staring at me in pieces...

    Patiently waiting for new parts now.

    M
    Definitely understand the frustration. When I built mine, I had some trail and error with BB spindle length with my square taper crank.
    Trust me, your patience will pay off!
    Besides, be grateful it's not a PF30. I'm having all sorts of creaking, clunking noises coming from mine on my Nature Boy Zona.

    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

    dongerparty.com

  55. #1155
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    Indeed... That's what I keep hearing!

    The silver lining is I can actually install the GXP myself with a cheap tool and a torque wrench...

    My frame its prepped and ready for pickup so this weekend I'm hoping to have everything but the cranks installed. I can use it as a balance bike till the new cranks arrive
    Michael

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  56. #1156
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    Are you guys torquing the drop out screws to a specific number?
    Michael

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  57. #1157
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    Yeah, about yay tight.

  58. #1158
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Are you guys torquing the drop out screws to a specific number?
    I actually had to put thread locker on them, even with all the washers, stop screws, lock nuts, etc.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  59. #1159
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    nah, probably the compliance of your rear tire....or your imagination.

    I do like my Nimble9 too though.

    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    It does feel compliant. Probably due to how the seat stays are bent. But anything is smoother than the Monocog--straight gauge steel tubes. I love that bike, but compliant it is not.
    future nature

  60. #1160
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    The build begins!

    At first I thought the frame looked a bit goofy... I'm diggin it more and more as more parts get added to it.

    Can't wait to finish her up and get in my first ride!

    Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-p9081126.jpg
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    Michael

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  61. #1161
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    That's looks great so far!!!
    konahonzo

  62. #1162
    AOK
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    Looks great! I love that orange.

  63. #1163
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    Thanks!

    Todays road block... While installing the front bb7 I notice the rotor moves in and out. I think the the hub is warped...manually spinning the hub while in my lap displays a slight non concentric rotation of the 15mm adapter, there's also a noticeable warp of the wheel itself as it spins but I figure I can true the rim easily enough, the hub however, I'm guessing I'm SOL... Sun Ringle Charger Comps. No idea what hub model it is, I will confirm rotor for flatness but I suspect it's fine.

    Grrr,
    Michael

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  64. #1164
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    yep, should've waited for orange.

  65. #1165
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    At first I thought the frame looked a bit goofy... I'm diggin it more and more as more parts get added to it.

    Can't wait to finish her up and get in my first ride!
    Nice walking bike. You'll probably never even need training wheels!

    Looks great! I've always been partial to the orange and black. Hope the hub/brake thing sorts out easily.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  66. #1166
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    Quote Originally Posted by WVJon75 View Post
    yep, should've waited for orange.
    You should sell it to me!!!

  67. #1167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Nice walking bike. You'll probably never even need training wheels!
    Balance bike, noob!

    Actually going to pick one up for the kid today. The 12er version. Fully rigid, though, with no brakes.

  68. #1168
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    Balance bike, noob!

    Actually going to pick one up for the kid today. The 12er version. Fully rigid, though, with no brakes.
    Almost works like one with the dropper on there...

    Balance bikes are great my son at five is a stronger rider than many of the children I see around town some much older. He rides horse trails and green level single track already, single speed baby! I attribute a great deal of his riding success to staring out on the balance bike and lack of "detraining" wheels.
    Last edited by geraldooka; 09-10-2012 at 05:20 PM.
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  69. #1169
    AOK
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    Answered my own question re: chain guides....

    I just installed a Paul Chain Keeper on my Nimble with MRP 28T bling ring. No rides yet, but it looks like it will work well. I had to flip the clamp upside down & position the chain block to the rear of the seat tube to compensate for the offset seat tube.

    The only complication is that this forces the two clamp screws to face the rear of the bike. Depending on where you run your sliders and how big of a rear tire you run, this can make setup a pain as it can be hard to get a 4mm hex wrench in there to tighten things up.

  70. #1170
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    Great to know. I have the 1x seat tube model on exchange now for the seat tube model. According to the fellow at mrp who also owns a Nimble 9 it will work...

    I do like that little Pauls unit though. Are you using the extension arm that seems like a problem solver?

    If the 1x tube mount doesn't work I'll be looking into that one.
    Michael

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  71. #1171
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    Is it bad that I'm thinking about picking up a second N9 frame? build one up as a rigid SS, the other as a geared with a fork....

  72. #1172
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    Is it bad that I'm thinking about picking up a second N9 frame? build one up as a rigid SS, the other as a geared with a fork....
    Nope. I'm thinking about a second as well. Both SS one rigid one with a fork.

  73. #1173
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    Arrrgh you guys are seriously not helping my patience to get this thing on the trails! :banghead:
    Last edited by geraldooka; 09-12-2012 at 05:57 PM.
    Michael

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  74. #1174
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    You should sell it to me!!!
    Well, the white is growing on me. There is a one large white left at Canfield bros, however if they come back with Purple or orange again I may sell mine.

  75. #1175
    AOK
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    I do like that little Pauls unit though. Are you using the extension arm that seems like a problem solver?
    No, just the chain keeper itself. I will post pics if I remember to take one after my ride tomorrow.

  76. #1176
    AOK
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    Here is a picture of my setup plus a mini-review.

    I had my first ride with the chain keeper tonight, and was very pleased. Completely silent operation + the chain stayed in place. Seems like the chain keeper performed its job.

    Things I like about it:
    - looks good, works well
    - light weight & simple
    - no restrictions on lube like the plastic chain guides
    - not too expensive (< $50 at Jenson)
    - made in USA

    The only issue thus far was it took a while to get it set up right. Not a big problem, as I doubt I will ever touch it again.

    One other note - I notice that Paul just came out with a direct mount version. Maybe I bought too soon...
    Paul Component Engineering - Chain Keeper Direct
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-img_0945.jpg  


  77. #1177
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    Looks good, plus side is they hold their value well if you want to get the direct mount and sell the other one. Sick crank/ring combo too!

    Paul rocks! Bunch of stinky hippies out in Cali, they'll always get my support.
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

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  78. #1178
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    That looks great!

    Kinda regret ordering the mrp unit now...

    Ok so on another note as I alluded to in a previous post. The Sun Ringle Charger Comp wheels I ordered appear to have a bung front hub, the rear hub wobbles a bit too but much less thankfully. This of course makes dialing in the front brakes a pain. As these are my first disc brake wheels I wanted to ask if this is typical for 29er wheels? BTW I checked the rotors they are dead flat.

    I'm thinking I should have ordered the Canfield wheels.
    Michael

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  79. #1179
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    That looks great!

    Kinda regret ordering the mrp unit now...

    Ok so on another note as I alluded to in a previous post. The Sun Ringle Charger Comp wheels I ordered appear to have a bung front hub, the rear hub wobbles a bit too but much less thankfully. This of course makes dialing in the front brakes a pain. As these are my first disc brake wheels I wanted to ask if this is typical for 29er wheels? BTW I checked the rotors they are dead flat.

    I'm thinking I should have ordered the Canfield wheels.
    Check that the bearings and end caps are fully pressed in and are square.
    Special Processed American Meat

  80. #1180
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    Thanks. Yeah that seems fine. Its pretty tough to screw up up a 15mm through axle. I just think they are crappy hubs. The rims are great they set up tubeless on regular Ardent 2.4 without a single issue. Next time I'll just order the rims and buy better hubs separately.

    On a related note I was told that it would not be worth it to replace the hub on the front wheel. What say you guys? I bought the set for 400 and was mulling the idea of picking up a Hope hub for the front. If I attempted it myself I'd need to invest some cash in a truing stand and tension meter. Who builds their own wheels?
    Last edited by geraldooka; 09-16-2012 at 02:12 PM.
    Michael

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  81. #1181
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    Wheel building is a art as I always say. Re-truing your wheel is one thing. Building a new wheels is best left up to an experienced knowledgeable builder.

    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Thanks. Yeah that seems fine. Its pretty tough to screw up up a 15mm through axle. I just think they are crappy hubs. They rims are great they set up tubeless on regular Ardent 2.4 without a single issue. Next time I'll just order the rims and buy better hubs separately.

    On a related note I was told that it would not be worth it to replace the hub on the front wheel. What say you guys? I bought the set for 400 and was mulling the idea of picking up a Hope hub for the front. If I attempted it myself I'd need to invest some cash in a truing stand and tension meter. Who builds there own wheels?
    Pisgah Area Sorba - Web Site Communications
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  82. #1182
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    That looks great!

    Kinda regret ordering the mrp unit now...

    Ok so on another note as I alluded to in a previous post. The Sun Ringle Charger Comp wheels I ordered appear to have a bung front hub, the rear hub wobbles a bit too but much less thankfully. This of course makes dialing in the front brakes a pain. As these are my first disc brake wheels I wanted to ask if this is typical for 29er wheels? BTW I checked the rotors they are dead flat.

    I'm thinking I should have ordered the Canfield wheels.
    I am not sure it is truly the hubs that are the problem based on the information you're providing. You say "the hub wobbles a bit too much" but then go on to say this makes dialing in the brakes a pain. If the hub were wobbling the first thing you would notice is the whole wheel wobbling as you spin it, much more than you would notice the rotor wobbling. If your primary problem is only that the rotor is not passing through the brakes without moving slightly side to side and rubbing, then I can pretty much guarantee you it is not the hub that's the problem, it is indeed the rotor even if it looks flat when its off the bike.

  83. #1183
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    Actually, now that I read your prior post as well it sounds like the entire wheel wobbles as well... so I suppose you may be right after all, which is too bad. I say if so, you should replace the hub, just try to measure the existing hub and compare its spoke hole diameters and flange offsets to those of aftermarket hubs. You will want something close so you can reuse your spokes without them being too short or too long.

    As far as wheelbuilding for the first time, the front wheel is a good place to start because it is subject to less stress than the rear. And there is no better way to learn wheelbuilding than to do it.

  84. #1184
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    Thanks for the advice. I think I will give it a go. I had been wanting a truing stand anyways, the spoke tension meter I could have waited on but it wouldn't have hurt to have one.

    I'm just full of questions... here's another one that I may luck out on:

    I notice the handle bar height with my current set-up (780mm W x 12.5mm Rise, 60mm Stem inverted 7 degree) is still about 100mm (4") above my seat height. Now I don't have cranks on yet, maybe that's why I'm posting so frequently - I need to go riding!!! I still think the bars will be will end up between 3-4" higher. I have a flat bar on order that will lower the bars by 1/2" the only other thing I can think of is to get the stem even lower, shooting for even with seat height.

    Here's the question (finally): Anyone have one of these and could tell me the drop it has?

    Products Stems Swarm DMR Bikes

    Thanks for humouring me.



    Impatiently waiting to ride the sparkling orange Nimble 9 sitting behind my desk (taunting me) as I type this....
    Last edited by geraldooka; 09-16-2012 at 10:57 PM.
    Michael

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  85. #1185
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    damn you guys, this thread makes me spend money
    finished the bike yesterday, and did a ride
    love how it handles


  86. #1186
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    Looks sic! All these spiderless cranks are making my wallet itch.

    Any idea what your AKA's with the MRP ring weigh?
    - Canfield Nimble 9 - Retired
    Niner Rip 9 (2016)
    Canfield Nimble 9 Boost (2017)

  87. #1187
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    def. an "all mountain" seat angle :-)
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

    visit my blog, BEATS, BIKES & LIFE

  88. #1188
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    I will answer my own question and compare the nimble 9 to a niner mcr.
    Nimble 9 handles better in single track, bike feels like I am steering with my body where as the niner felt like I was steering with my arms. I felt like I was pivoting off the rear wheel. Where on the mcr I would have to work harder to turn. High speed and downhill is MUCH better on the nimble 9. I always felt skittish (lack of confidence) at high speed on the mcr. I found myself going faster and more confident on the n9. Climbing is worse on the n9. But considering how much better it is everywhere else, it more than makes up for it. I'm sure with a bit more seat time I can adjust to overcome this. Overall I am very happy that I made the switch to short chainstays + slack headtube. I will be selling my Niner frame after just 1 ride on the n9.

  89. #1189
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    How do you like your Eriksen post? I just ordered one...


    FWIW- I found the my N9 climbs better than my previous 29ers (Misfit Dissent, Fisher Rig), but they were all SS, not a fair comparison.

  90. #1190
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    How do you like your Eriksen post? I just ordered one...


    FWIW- I found the my N9 climbs better than my previous 29ers (Misfit Dissent, Fisher Rig), but they were all SS, not a fair comparison.
    I too find that it climbs fine, though I am ridding SS. There are times when putting down the power that the front will loft or completely rise and I'm forced to counter, but its never been anything that prevents me from whipping up on hills/climbs.
    - Canfield Nimble 9 - Retired
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  91. #1191
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    My N9 is SS as well, and it does climb better than my previous rigs.

  92. #1192
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    Mine is SS, and will also say it climbs better than my Niner. I do get a little more wandering front, but nothing out of control. I've made it up steeper climbs on my N9 than any other SS, due to more weight/traction to the rear end.

  93. #1193
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    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    I had been wanting a truing stand anyways, the spoke tension meter I could have waited on but it wouldn't have hurt to have one.
    Might I suggest saving some money and making a sub-$1.00 ghetto truing stand out of the fork, a ruler with mm graduations and 1-2 rubber bands. I have a cheap truing stand and never use it because it is such a rickety P oh S. Likewise a tension meter is not really necessary, nice to have maybe so you know ballpark what you are tensioning everything to, but I find the trick is if you feel like you are getting to the point where you need uneven tension to get the build true, its actually time to start the tensioning phase over from the beginning (the beginning for me being 1 spoke thread visible at each nipple). These days most rims just don't take very much effort to build straight, I find, unless you make some wrong moves along the way.

    The stem looks like it drops just a little less than half the diameter of an oversize bar. So 14-15 mm is my guess. A search led me to the fact that it has a 30 mm stack height which is lower than almost any normal MTB stem, that probably buys you another 5-7 mm depending what you compare it to.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canfield Nimble 9 build thread!-ghetto-truing-stand.jpg  


  94. #1194
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    Quote Originally Posted by sslos View Post
    Mine's here!
    Here's the first pics.
    <iframe border=0 frameborder=0 framespacing=0 height=1 width=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0 name=new_date noResize scrolling=no src="http://tinyurl.com/27shlk6" vspale=0></iframe>
    <iframe border=0 frameborder=0 framespacing=0 height=1 width=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0 name=new_date noResize scrolling=no src="http://tinyurl.com/yz4gjyd" vspale=0></iframe>

    Los
    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5i2Sh0FY1sEUonEHI4D_f8qGViO3W2zqb0Fy6FYMtpM?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gBq_qYhqjXE/TiiE6DOh7SI/AAAAAAAAAGU/oSBGfi5TreI/s144/IMAG0298.jpg" height="96" width="144" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/1speedlos/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLn8hMD38-DYWw&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>
    Nice Licky guy

  95. #1195
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    Quote Originally Posted by gridtalker View Post
    Nice Licky guy
    If you meant "lucky," then thanks!
    If you meant to say licky... do I know you?!?

    It's been over a year now, and I can honestly say I've really not found a reason to complain about this frame. It's carried me across the finish line of 2 endurance races (El Paso Puzzler 50 [ridiculously rocky and truly brutal,] and High Cascades100,) and all the training and riding in between.
    It's not really being ridden that much right now, because I'm readying myself for my first full cyclocross season since '01.
    That will change.
    At the end of the month, we're leaving San Antonio for Boise. As it happens, we were spending a month there when I received my frame, and built it.
    Expect some pics of the N9 with more mountain terrain, and hopefully lots more miles!

    Los
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  96. #1196
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    Has anyone built one up with around a $1500 budget. I'm very interested in building my first 29er with this frame, but am a little afraid that I'm looking at a frame that will make my build go way past my budget.

  97. #1197
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    Depends on your component list and how good of a deal you can get. I think it's definitely doable. Just shop the classifieds here and on craigslist.

  98. #1198
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    While I've complained of the rear spokes loosening on my Charger Pros, that's been resolved since I've got them adequately tensioned. Other than that, my set has been pretty bomber under my 200 lbs. and I get no wobble from the wheel or rotor. Maybe fab up a run-out indicator and see where the wobble is starting?
    As to building your own wheel, if you decide you need a new hub, then I'd encourage you to give it a go. As others have suggested, it's not rocket science and you don't really need a tensiometer. Just do a good bit of reading up on it first, and go slowly.
    - Joe

    Quote Originally Posted by geraldooka View Post
    Thanks. Yeah that seems fine. Its pretty tough to screw up up a 15mm through axle. I just think they are crappy hubs. The rims are great they set up tubeless on regular Ardent 2.4 without a single issue. Next time I'll just order the rims and buy better hubs separately.

    On a related note I was told that it would not be worth it to replace the hub on the front wheel. What say you guys? I bought the set for 400 and was mulling the idea of picking up a Hope hub for the front. If I attempted it myself I'd need to invest some cash in a truing stand and tension meter. Who builds their own wheels?
    We rejoice in our suffering, knowing that suffering produces endurance, and endurance produces character.

  99. #1199
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    NuMexJoe: I suspect the Pro's have a higher spec hub on them... I could have just gotten a lemon.

    Mutantclover: Great advice on a diy truing stand. Now I just need another 29er fork... I figure similarly on the DMR stem. Besides flipping a 30 degree stem (I don't even know if that is possible, plus it would look funny) I think this stem would be my best bet for getting those bars lower. Assuming a 15-20mm drop with the stem and the 12.5 mm drop of the flat bars I'm still looking at a grip height that is about 65mm (about 2.5") above my seat (at optimum pedal height.) I may just have to live with that, drop my forks to 100mm from 120mm (don't want to do that) or get some funky custom drop bar made!

    Regarding wheels and the rotor as suspect, I have a wood shop with a granite surfaced table saw. Its dead nuts flat and that rotor is too. Its definitely the hub. Its still ride-able just can't get the front brakes pads as close to the rotor as I'd like. As I'm sure many of you know its often not worth the time and trouble dealing with a warranty issue with a lot of these mail order's particularly large packaged items like this. Hence I'm seriously considering a set of the Canfield wheels, I can always use these with a different set of tires.
    Michael

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  100. #1200
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    updated

    Wheels are temporary and will be replaced this winter when funds allow, OR when somebody buys my I9s in the classifieds and I get a bit of extra cash. Seat goes up on trail rides, down for playing around on (think looooong manuals and air time). I tore it up on 20" bikes for years, and am now getting back into that "style" of riding.

    Behold, as it currently sits. Short stems and wide bars are the way to go, and I will never go back.
    ~RollingStoned~
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    Typed with my thumbs=excus ethe typos

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