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  1. #1
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    Building a FS bike.

    So I've ordered all the parts to a full suspension mountain bike, have theframe, everything etc... and ready to start fitting it all together. Wanting to confirm everything is correct since its the first attempt at doing so ever, so if anyone is around to help it would be much appreciated from the ones who have done it before. I'll also be going through two books.

    LenZ Behemoth 29er Frame

    Chris King ThreadFit 24mm Bottom Bracket


    • Navy, Steel
    • Qty: 1


    Chris King BB Conversion Kit #12


    • Black, threadfit 24-mtn 73mm
    • Qty: 1



    Chris King InSet 3 Tapered Headset with Griplock


    • Bold Black, One Size
    • Qty: 1


    Shimano XT SM-RT86 Rotor - 6-Bolt

    • One Color, 180mm
    • Qty: 1


    Shimano Disc Brake Adapters


    • SM-MA-F180, Post/Post Front/Rear
    • Qty: 1

    FOX Racing Shox FRS007V-MATBK-S15TS15QRX110

    • FOX Racing Shox 36 Float 29 160 HSC/LSC FIT Boost Fork (51mm Rake) - Matte Black, 1.5T, 15QRx110
    • Qty: 1

    FOX Racing Shox Transfer Factory Series Dropper Seatpost - Internal Routing


    • Black, 30.9x456mm/150mm Travel
    • Qty: 1

    Race Face RCF000O-BK-ONESIZ


    • Race Face Atlas 1 1/4in Riser Handlebar - Black, One Size
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI001B-ONECOL-S160MM

    • Shimano XT SM-RT86 Rotor - 6-Bolt - One Color, 160mm
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI007V-SI-S1146

    • Shimano XT CS-M8000 Cassette - Silver, 11-46
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI008F-ONECOL-FRO

    • Shimano XT BL-M8000 Disc Brake - One Color, Front
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI008F-ONECOL-REA

    • Shimano XT BL-M8000 Disc Brake - One Color, Rear
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI008G-ONECOL-MEDCAG

    • Shimano XT RD-M8000 Rear Derailleur - One Color, Medium Cage
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano XT BB-MT800 Bottom Bracket

    • BSA Threaded, One Size
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI009A-BK-S175MM

    • Shimano XT FC-M8000 1x Crank Arms Black, 175mm component of SHI00AL-BK-S175MM34T
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano XT/Ultegra CN-HG701 11-Speed Chain

    • Gray, One Size
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI00CS-ONECOL-RIG

    • Shimano XT SL-M8000 RapidFire Trigger Shifter - One Color, Right
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI00EI-ONECOL-S34T

    • Shimano XT M8000 SM-CRM81 1x Chainring One Color, 34T component of SHI00AL-BK-S175MM34T
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano Disc Brake Adapters

    • SM-MA-R160, IS/Post Rear
    • Qty: 1

    Chris King ISO Front Hub - 15mm - SD Hubshell

    • Red, 32H, 15x100mm TA
    • Qty: 1

    Chris King ISO Disc Rear Hub - 12x157mm Thru-Axle

    • Red, 12x157mm
    • Qty: 1

    Shimano SHI00AL-BK-S175MM34T

    • Shimano XT M8000 1x Crankset - Black, 175mm/34t
    • Qty: 1
    Last edited by StanZa17; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    Right now I'm fitting the handlebars, headset, shocks, to the headtube.

  3. #3
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    You should post photos of your progress.
    Always ride with a purpose.

  4. #4
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    Definitely.

    Building a FS bike.-18697998_280800672385035_7470374339992650699_n.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-19780619_300048783793557_3780200638115804467_o.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-19667689_300048803793555_7024329958602738582_o.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-19510159_298024387329330_8867396113335965225_n.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-23511200_355613514903750_4043888537537093632_o.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-23467208_355613531570415_8786270555703091918_o.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-23406058_355613464903755_5219843751630351126_o.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-23472293_355612034903898_5876437634179114894_n.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-19657387_300047060460396_7154742873679003260_n.jpgBuilding a FS bike.-19554951_300048510460251_5166538731580435724_n.jpg

  5. #5
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    I like where this thread is going!

  6. #6
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    Yup, its time to set it up!

  7. #7
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    You don't need the Shimano bb. You have the CK one. And the 15 x 100 hub is the incorrect size. You need a 15 x 110 Boost hub.

  8. #8
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    So you're 'fitting it all together' as a first.

    Tell me about the wheels. Are you building them as well?

  9. #9
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    Eb1888:
    So yes its only the CK one, and so you'd trade the 15 x 100 hub for the 15 x 110 boost hub.

    TootallUK:
    Fitting it all together, building the wheels, putting the whole bike together by hand.

    Appreciate the feedback guys, its really a work in progress. It was as much research as possible at the time, with the time there is available. so if there are more suggestings, questions, or comments it'd be awesome, the brainstorming, going on the forum actually helps a lot.

  10. #10
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    Here's starting info on wheel building-
    Wheels

    Dans Comp has Sapim Race and Laser spokes and brass Sapim Polyax nipples(included) at great pricing.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by StanZa17 View Post
    Eb1888:
    So yes its only the CK one, and so you'd trade the 15 x 100 hub for the 15 x 110 boost hub.
    What he means is, The fork is a boost (110mm) fork. The hub you ordered is a Non-boost hub (100mm) they don't work together.
    You need to order a 110mm boost hub

    also May want to Email Lenz and ask them how the geo will change with a 160mm fork. Their info lists it up to a 150mm.

    gonna be a badass build though.
    What rims are those? Size?
    Too Many .

  12. #12
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    Building a FS bike.

    And if Iím reading it correctly, Behemoth frameset is 12x142 rear maxle lite. Itís the Lunchbox frameset that is 12x157 rear.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by splash13 View Post
    And if Iím reading it correctly, Behemoth frameset is 12x142 rear maxle lite. Itís the Lunchbox frameset that is 12x157 rear.
    There are two different ones

    Depends on which he has a 29+/27.5+ or the 29er frame
    Too Many .

  14. #14
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    Well, he said 29er on the original post, not 29+/27.5+.

  15. #15
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    eb1888:
    The wheel building site actually looks like a great tutorial with a lot of information, its also a first ever building the wheels. It looks like the spokes will definitely have to be changed from the DT SWISS especially if the hub has to be switched to a boost hub, so its Dan's Comp for "Sapim Race and Laser spokes and brass Sapim Polyax nipples(included)".

    brent701:
    Ok, that makes sense you'd pair the boost components together at the same mm, thats good to know. I was just looking at the CK 110 boost hub, so that helps a lot if you catch anything else.

    I'll actually go send that email right now, because thats a pretty curious question and now I'm wondering how IS the geometry affected. 160mm to the 150mm.

    Yeah it is.
    So those rims are made by Velocity, a USA company.
    They are the Blunt SS - 29".

    splash13:
    It must have been from the information, then the rear hub has to be changed to a 12x142 rear as well as boost then.

    Again appreciate the feedback guys, if there's anythings else I'd be glad to hear it! Especially before setting in to start the building process! Trust that I am taking notes, getting right on those corrections!
    Building a FS bike.-img_2510.jpg

  16. #16
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    If you want to keep the boost up front, might as well keep the boost rear hub. Just ask Lenz if they can exchange your rear/chainstay for 29+/27.5+ which is from Fatass frameset.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by StanZa17 View Post
    eb1888:
    The wheel building site actually looks like a great tutorial with a lot of information, its also a first ever building the wheels. It looks like the spokes will definitely have to be changed from the DT SWISS especially if the hub has to be switched to a boost hub, so its Dan's Comp for "Sapim Race and Laser spokes and brass Sapim Polyax nipples(included)".

    brent701:
    Ok, that makes sense you'd pair the boost components together at the same mm, thats good to know. I was just looking at the CK 110 boost hub, so that helps a lot if you catch anything else.

    I'll actually go send that email right now, because thats a pretty curious question and now I'm wondering how IS the geometry affected. 160mm to the 150mm.

    Yeah it is.
    So those rims are made by Velocity, a USA company.
    They are the Blunt SS - 29".

    splash13:
    It must have been from the information, then the rear hub has to be changed to a 12x142 rear as well as boost then.

    Again appreciate the feedback guys, if there's anythings else I'd be glad to hear it! Especially before setting in to start the building process! Trust that I am taking notes, getting right on those corrections!
    12x142 isn't boost. 12x148 is boost. 12x157 is you DH size hub or older fat tire bike hub sizing.
    Not sure what size tire you are wanting to build with this.

    Quote Originally Posted by splash13 View Post
    If you want to keep the boost up front, might as well keep the boost rear hub. Just ask Lenz if they can exchange your rear/chainstay for 29+/27.5+ which is from Fatass frameset.
    He has a good idea
    Too Many .

  18. #18
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    And if you decide to go the 29+/27.5+ route, that means you need a wider rims. Not sure how wide your rims are but in my opinion, 40mm inner width is the minimum. Correct me if Iím wrong.

  19. #19
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    splash13:
    Quote Originally Posted by splash13 View Post
    If you want to keep the boost up front, might as well keep the boost rear hub. Just ask Lenz if they can exchange your rear/chainstay for 29+/27.5+ which is from Fatass frameset.
    Haha you know I thought about that for a while, I have the 29er rim with the short chainstay, but the question is would they do it. It seems like maybe it can be changed for the 12x 148 however, instead of using the 12x157.

    brent701:
    Quote Originally Posted by brent701 View Post
    12x142 isn't boost. 12x148 is boost. 12x157 is you DH size hub or older fat tire bike hub sizing.
    Not sure what size tire you are wanting to build with this.
    He has a good idea
    Ok, right so it would probably be best as a set so you're sating that the 12x148 would work for the rear, then switch that for the current CK 12x157mm. While it also has to be a 110mm front switched from the 100mm too to match the fox float shock.

    Splash13:
    Quote Originally Posted by splash13 View Post
    And if you decide to go the 29+/27.5+ route, that means you need a wider rims. Not sure how wide your rims are but in my opinion, 40mm inner width is the minimum. Correct me if Iím wrong.
    That would probably be right, I thought about that route and have a 27.5+ bike already that is awesome, that I adore. The 40mm sounds about right.


    Appreciate it! I think were on the right track, I have a good feeling about it, so I think its the right track! I'll set up tomorrow, so those parts can hopefully can changed! I'll be going to double check the work too, I really appreciate everything you caught! If you catch anything else or have anymore suggestions, I'm all eyes or ears! Open to suggestions, comments, questions!

  20. #20
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    Here are some suggestions you can consider. 1) Keep the frame and front hub, exhange fork to non-boost (you might do it anyway since the frame is designed up to 150mm only and you have 160mm), exchange the rear hub to 12x142. I assume your rims are not for plus size anyway. 2) Keep the fork and rear hub, exchange rear/chainstay to 12x157, exhange front hub to 15x110, exhange your rims with wider width to accomodate + size tires. Thats the benefit of boost + the stiffness. 3) Since youíre set on Lenz frame, why not ask Lenz to custom built the bike for you with all the parts you want, hassle free. That way you donít have to worry about purchasing incorrect parts or components. And lastly 4) Build it yourself, learn from your mistakes. This way, you will have a better understanding how the components works or match and youíll have the satisfaction of accomplishing something.

  21. #21
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    Splash13:
    Quote Originally Posted by splash13 View Post
    Here are some suggestions you can consider. 1) Keep the frame and front hub, exhange fork to non-boost (you might do it anyway since the frame is designed up to 150mm only and you have 160mm), exchange the rear hub to 12x142. I assume your rims are not for plus size anyway. 2) Keep the fork and rear hub, exchange rear/chainstay to 12x157, exhange front hub to 15x110, exhange your rims with wider width to accomodate + size tires. Thats the benefit of boost + the stiffness. 3) Since youíre set on Lenz frame, why not ask Lenz to custom built the bike for you with all the parts you want, hassle free. That way you donít have to worry about purchasing incorrect parts or components. And lastly 4) Build it yourself, learn from your mistakes. This way, you will have a better understanding how the components works or match and youíll have the satisfaction of accomplishing something.
    The part about learning, #4 is the best.

    So talked to Nick Watson at LenZ sport, while also directing him to the Forum thread, he said ""A 160mm fork will bring the bars up slightly, slack out the head time angle and seat tune angle slightly, and raise the bottom bracket slightly. It should be okay but 150mm is ideal for that bike.""

    So probably have to trade the 160mm boost fork to 150mm boost fork, to get to the specifics for the geometry the bike was based on.
    Switch the15x100mm for 15x110mm front hub, so it can stay boost since they're saying boost makes a stronger wheel.
    Change the 12x157mm to12x142mm rear hub.

    Looking at the seat post and seeing that it calls for a125mm but the way the 125mm looks, it seems it should sit closer to the bottom of the seat post. Went to do the measurements, its headed up about right to my bike 27.5+ bike but if you've got any word on that and I'm about to talk to Nick as well.Building a FS bike.-img_2511.jpg

  22. #22
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    Boost for your fork allows you to use the extra space to try different tires going forward. Don't give that up.

  23. #23
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    Make sure you can exchange the fork for free. Changing travel on Fox 36 takes about 15 minutes and a new air shaft at $30-50.


    Hope you did not pay full MSRP for all of the listed parts. The rule of thumb for buying components - you can almost always get them at 20% or higher discount .... including frames.



    Quote Originally Posted by StanZa17 View Post
    Splash13:

    The part about learning, #4 is the best.

    ...

    So probably have to trade the 160mm boost fork to 150mm boost fork, to get to the specifics for the geometry the bike was based on.
    Switch the15x100mm for 15x110mm front hub, so it can stay boost since they're saying boost makes a stronger wheel.
    Change the 12x157mm to12x142mm rear hub.

    Looking at the seat post and seeing that it calls for a125mm but the way the 125mm looks, it seems it should sit closer to the bottom of the seat post. Went to do the measurements, its headed up about right to my bike 27.5+ bike but if you've got any word on that and I'm about to talk to Nick as well.Click image for larger version. 

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  24. #24
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    eb1888:
    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    Boost for your fork allows you to use the extra space to try different tires going forward. Don't give that up.
    Definitely.

    BigZeee:
    Quote Originally Posted by BigZeee View Post
    Make sure you can exchange the fork for free. Changing travel on Fox 36 takes about 15 minutes and a new air shaft at $30-50.


    Hope you did not pay full MSRP for all of the listed parts. The rule of thumb for buying components - you can almost always get them at 20% or higher discount .... including frames.

    If you know where to get deals like that, it would be great to hear.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by StanZa17 View Post
    eb1888:
    Definitely.

    BigZeee:



    If you know where to get deals like that, it would be great to hear.
    Two strategies:
    1) Spend a few evenings online hunting:
    - eBay, Backountry.com, Jensonusa, Fanatik, Merlin Cycles, Chainreaction, etc, etc. European online stores have amazing deals and in many cases shipping is faster then within US.
    2) Make a full list and approach your LBS or one of the big online retailers for a one time deal. E.g. backcountry.com will always negotiate.

    Donít forget activejunky.com for additional 6-10% off.

    I started buying parts for my new custom last Friday, using the first strategy.

    So far I bought the following (all brand new components)
    - 2017 Ibis carbon frame 37% off
    - 2017 Pike fork 52% off
    - 2018 RockShox Reverb dropper 35% off
    - 2017 Eagle X01 drivetrain 20% off
    - 2017 Shimano XTR M9020 brakes 40% off
    - WTB Volt Pro saddle 50% off
    - 2018 DT Swiss XM1501 wheelset 40% off

    I will also get a few bucks back from activejunky.com. E.g. 8% for frame.

    Granted, some (most) of the components are 2017 but I will accept not being the coolest kid on the block for a few hundreds left for microbrews :-)

    Hope it helps

  26. #26
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    BigZeee:
    Quote Originally Posted by BigZeee View Post
    Two strategies:
    1) Spend a few evenings online hunting:
    - eBay, Backountry.com, Jensonusa, Fanatik, Merlin Cycles, Chainreaction, etc, etc. European online stores have amazing deals and in many cases shipping is faster then within US.
    2) Make a full list and approach your LBS or one of the big online retailers for a one time deal. E.g. backcountry.com will always negotiate.

    Donít forget activejunky.com for additional 6-10% off.

    I started buying parts for my new custom last Friday, using the first strategy.

    So far I bought the following (all brand new components)
    - 2017 Ibis carbon frame 37% off
    - 2017 Pike fork 52% off
    - 2018 RockShox Reverb dropper 35% off
    - 2017 Eagle X01 drivetrain 20% off
    - 2017 Shimano XTR M9020 brakes 40% off
    - WTB Volt Pro saddle 50% off
    - 2018 DT Swiss XM1501 wheelset 40% off

    I will also get a few bucks back from activejunky.com. E.g. 8% for frame.

    Granted, some (most) of the components are 2017 but I will accept not being the coolest kid on the block for a few hundreds left for microbrews :-)

    Hope it helps
    That's good to know, I'll have to keep that in mind. If you look at a lot of those parts you'll notice a lot of them are made in the USA, that was the criteria for selecting those. Then it was the businesses such as competitive cyclist who have a great return policy for new items.
    Last edited by StanZa17; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:06 PM.

  27. #27
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    Just to add one thing no one has mentioned. The Fox 36 comes with a 1800mm post mount, you don't need the adaptor
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  28. #28
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    TwoTone:
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Just to add one thing no one has mentioned. The Fox 36 comes with a 1800mm post mount, you don't need the adaptor
    I saw that, appreciate the heads up.


    Update:
    Talked to Connor at competitive cyclist who was awesome help. So the fork will get changed to a fox float 150mm travel boost. The front hub to a 15x110mm to match the fork, the rear hub will be changed to 12x158mm boost hub since I talked to Nick at LenZ he said that they would use those for the Behemoth.

    So the only thing is measuring then getting matching spokes for the rim its getting connected to from Velocity, all of that has to then get trued up with the wheel truing tools for wheel building.

    Thats all getting shipped back now, they sent the UPS labels which was awesome. Then they'll send the parts up tomorrow, the front hub is on backorder... but there's so much to work on before that so there's definitely time.

  29. #29
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    I had to subscribe to this thread, itís an ambitious project and looks like a awesome build 👍
    Current MTBs:
    1995 Mongoose IBOC Zero G-SX
    2014 Cube Reaction GTC SL
    2017 Scott Spark 930

  30. #30
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    Hesher123:
    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post
    I had to subscribe to this thread, itís an ambitious project and looks like a awesome build 
    Definitely, hope you enjoy it,. It'll be getting built so pictures are on the way, just got the camera up, charging the batteries. I'll be writing it up as I go through it, so stay posted.

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