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  1. #1
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    Bike shop gouged / scratched my carbon fork tube

    A bike shop gouged my carbon fork tube, the part where the crown race slips over. There are some deep scratches I would say. I was wondering is the fork any good any more or does a few deep scratches basically make it not safe. The deep scratches are also all in one spot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    A bike shop gouged my carbon fork tube, the part where the crown race slips over. There are some deep scratches I would say. I was wondering is the fork any good any more or does a few deep scratches basically make it not safe. The deep scratches are also all in one spot.
    PIcs please.

    Have you contacted the shop yet to ask them about what happened?

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    Quote Originally Posted by skiahh View Post
    PIcs please.

    Have you contacted the shop yet to ask them about what happened?
    I don't want to get into the details of it because I want to remain anonymous. And I don't want to mention the bike shop's name because I have yet to give them a chance to rectify the situation.

    The scratches are about half an inch long, and there are three or four of them clustered in one area. The depth of the scratch...well there is some depth, certainly not a surface scratch. What is annoying is that this could potentially if installed caused serious injury I think.

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    Deep scratches in carbon is never a good thing IMO.

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    So you think it's a dangerous situation using the fork. So you think it's possible they gouged it when they put the crown race on? Meh, I hate situations like this. They seemed like really nice honest people. I think the person that did it just didn't want to get fired or something. Bah.

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    I think they should be happy to replace it. I they don't, and it breaks, they're screwed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    I think they should be happy to replace it. I they don't, and it breaks, they're screwed.
    How would they be screwed? The OP would be screwed knowing he installed a damaged part and then used it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    A bike shop gouged my carbon fork tube, the part where the crown race slips over. There are some deep scratches I would say. I was wondering is the fork any good any more or does a few deep scratches basically make it not safe. The deep scratches are also all in one spot.
    I would not ride the fork unless the manufacturer of the fork stated, in writing, that it was structurally sound. I wouldn't rely on any other opinions (especially arm chair internet engineers.)

    Otherwise, the shop should be willing to replace the part.
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  9. #9
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    Alright, I gotta throw in the mechanic's opinion.
    First, just to help with your explanation, the part of the fork you're referring to is called the steerer tube.
    DustOff, just how deep are these scratches? Quantitatively, I mean. What's a deep gouge in one person's opinion is less than halfway through the top resin layer. I recently had a customer come into the shop wanting to order a crash replacement for a frame with a scratch that was less than .5mm in depth.
    If the scratches/gouges are into the weave, the fork is under no circumstances safe to ride!
    If this is a reputable shop, and use halfway decent tools, scratching the steerer would require some pretty serious carelessness. Accidents happen, but if the mechanic responsible isn't qualified to use a crown race setter, then he/she needs to be trained.
    Take it back into the shop, talk to the service manager/senior mechanic. Discuss your concerns, and give them a shot to handle this the right way.

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  10. #10
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    ^^^ as a fellow mechanic I fully agree.


    I'm not even sure how you'd pull that off with a crown race setter unless he was a monkey and tried using a hammer/screw driver and has bad aim?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ilikebmx999 View Post
    ^^^ as a fellow mechanic I fully agree.


    I'm not even sure how you'd pull that off with a crown race setter unless he was a monkey and tried using a hammer/screw driver and has bad aim?
    X3... but posting on here without at least a picture isn't going to get ya much. and even photos aren't the best as there is no depth of field so it's difficult to tell if there is any real damage. I was always afraid of carbon but got a wicked deal on the Easton Monkey lite a few yrs back. I have smashed, crashed literally gone off a cliff with them and have no issues. I do regularly pull them and inspect especially around the stem clamp and out at and under the grips. You'll be surprised how much carbon can take.
    Like stated above the weave is the tell tale item, if you can see the carbon hairs then don't use it. there is a layer of resin above everything that is just protection and decoration. scratches in that aren't any issue (other than it just shouldn't have happened)

    talk with the shop first.. post a pic here if you are worried that they might try to screw you once they have given you their response
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    Are you positive they did it and not you by accident through riding or transport? We had a customer call us ranting about a huge scratch down his drive side chainstay. A scratch we couldn't conceive how was possible in the shop. He wouldn't bring it in, maybe his wife finally admitted to causing it. She had picked up the bike and hard a hard time getting I out the door and them loading it in the trunk of their car. I would have offered to help, but 10 minutes had gone by before I realized that she was still trying to get it in the car; almost done,
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    This is going to be some good Interwebbing.....

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    I blame it on monkeys.

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    I know they did it because I haven't touched the bike since it was in the shop. It could not have been scratched during transport. The surface area wasn't exposed during transport from the bike shop back to my house, because they slid the fork back through the head tube. Where the scratches were are near the head tube area when the fork is installed.

    The steerer tube wall thickness is 2mm thick. It's a scratch and there is some depth to it. Maybe 0.3mm to 0.4mm thickness max I would estimate just by putting my fingernail in it.

    Main thing I want to know is if something like this poses an issue if installed. I don't want to go back there, and they say it's fine, then I'm riding down hill and the fork becomes an issue. That's really my only problem.

    But if it's really fine as it is then I don't care and no harm no foul I guess you could say.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    I know they did it because I haven't touched the bike since it was in the shop. It could not have been scratched during transport. The surface area wasn't exposed during transport from the bike shop back to my house, because they slid the fork back through the head tube. Where the scratches were are near the head tube area when the fork is installed.

    The steerer tube wall thickness is 2mm thick. It's a scratch and there is some depth to it. Maybe 0.3mm to 0.4mm thickness max I would estimate just by putting my fingernail in it.

    Main thing I want to know is if something like this poses an issue if installed. I don't want to go back there, and they say it's fine, then I'm riding down hill and the fork becomes an issue. That's really my only problem.

    But if it's really fine as it is then I don't care and no harm no foul I guess you could say.



    It is an issue if the fiber threads have been cut or sliced. Pics would be helpful, use macro if possible.

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    As mentioned before, there is no answer to the safety question without a photo. However, I disagree with no harm no foul. Did the shop tell you they had damaged it, or did you find out on your own? When damaging a customers bike, it is the shops responsibility to replace the part. Personally, I would not mess around with a damaged steer tube. I would take it to a different shop, and have them look at it. Don't tell them how it was damaged, and get a 2nd opinion.

  18. #18
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    I'm calling BS on this. WTF were you doing taking the assembly apart after they did the work? I think you're fishing for opinions pointing the finger at this "unnamed shop" so you can use the thread to bully them. I think you F'd it up on your own and you're not man enough to accept the result of your own actions.
    Authorities speculate that speed may have been a factor. They are also holding gravity and inertia for questioning.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Caffeine Powered View Post
    I'm calling BS on this. WTF were you doing taking the assembly apart after they did the work? I think you're fishing for opinions pointing the finger at this "unnamed shop" so you can use the thread to bully them. I think you F'd it up on your own and you're not man enough to accept the result of your own actions.
    Do you know this guy? Do you work at the, "Unnamed shop"? That's a pretty nasty accusation if not.

  20. #20
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    Ride it, it's fine!

    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    I know they did it because I haven't touched the bike since it was in the shop. It could not have been scratched during transport. The surface area wasn't exposed during transport from the bike shop back to my house, because they slid the fork back through the head tube. Where the scratches were are near the head tube area when the fork is installed.

    The steerer tube wall thickness is 2mm thick. It's a scratch and there is some depth to it. Maybe 0.3mm to 0.4mm thickness max I would estimate just by putting my fingernail in it.

    Main thing I want to know is if something like this poses an issue if installed. I don't want to go back there, and they say it's fine, then I'm riding down hill and the fork becomes an issue. That's really my only problem.

    But if it's really fine as it is then I don't care and no harm no foul I guess you could say.
    There it's fixed! You seem intellegent enough about things, somewhat (fork tube/steer tube,tomatoes/toemattos), yet here you are trying to get approval over the virtual interweb for something with extreme reprocussions if you get the wrong diagnosis. Go take it to another shop, or 2, "anonymously" saying you're thinking about buying it (or whatever) and are concerned about scratches. Speak to someone with experience there to give an opinion. Then make your decision on it.
    Last edited by JMac47; 01-07-2012 at 12:21 PM. Reason: typo
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    There it's fixed! You seem intellegent enough about things, somewhat (fork tube/steer tube,tomatoes/toemattos), yet here you are trying to get approval over the virtual interweb for something with extreme reprocussions if you get the wrong diagnosis. Go take it to another shop, or 2, "anonymously" saying you're thinking about buying it (or whatever) and are concerned about scratches. Speak to someone with experience there to give an opinion. Then make your decision on it.
    best answer...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caffeine Powered View Post
    I'm calling BS on this. WTF were you doing taking the assembly apart after they did the work? I think you're fishing for opinions pointing the finger at this "unnamed shop" so you can use the thread to bully them. I think you F'd it up on your own and you're not man enough to accept the result of your own actions.
    Why would you think that? There really isn't many good bike shops near me at all, so it is not easy to get a 2nd opinion without driiving 30 miles. I've taken pics and HD video of the damage. I just want to ride. I've been thinking about just buying another fork and forgetting about it. But that's not right, I shouldn't have to pay for someone elses mistakes.

  23. #23
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    Why?

    Looking over this thread, you stated early on they are an honest shop, yet you take apart the work the did to check it? You must not have too much faith in them.

    So, why did you disassemble the front end?

    Are you sure you didn't scratch it when taking it apart? Pulled the fork out on an angle? Not accusing, but just asking.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    There it's fixed! You seem intellegent enough about things, somewhat (fork tube/steer tube,tomatoes/toemattos), yet here you are trying to get approval over the virtual interweb for something with extreme reprocussions if you get the wrong diagnosis. Go take it to another shop, or 2, "anonymously" saying you're thinking about buying it (or whatever) and are concerned about scratches. Speak to someone with experience there to give an opinion. Then make your decision on it.
    I'm not trying to get approval, just opinions. So your saying there isn't anyone on mtbr with enough reputation and experience to give an opinion. I know it's hard without a pic. But I will be posting a few shortly.

  25. #25
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    I can't figure out how it's possible to scratch it using the correct tool ? I know it's been said already but pics or ....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottoreni View Post
    Looking over this thread, you stated early on they are an honest shop, yet you take apart the work the did to check it? You must not have too much faith in them.

    So, why did you disassemble the front end?

    Are you sure you didn't scratch it when taking it apart? Pulled the fork out on an angle? Not accusing, but just asking.
    I'm positive. Realize that I still needed the headset installed, and I was going to take it back to the same shop with the fork out since they would need to remove the old headset. There really wasn't much disassembling since it was just the stem that was holding the fork up, basically two allen nuts. The star nut hadn't been installed yet.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    I'm positive. Realize that I still needed the headset installed, and I was going to take it back to the same shop with the fork out since they would need to remove the old headset. There really wasn't much disassembling since it was just the stem that was holding the fork up, basically two allen nuts. The star nut hadn't been installed yet.
    this story gets stranger by the second.
    you had them install a fork, or at least a crown race (which goes with the headset), then picked the bike up... then pulled the fork and plan on taking it back there to have them install a different headset?
    what are you going to get from anonymous internet jockeys that don't even have the opportunity to look at pictures of the thing that is going to help you in this situation?
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    .....I know it's hard without a pic. .......

    It's IMPOSSIBLE without a photo. Noone can tell if something looks safe to use without seeing it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    It's IMPOSSIBLE without a photo. Noone can tell if something looks safe to use without seeing it.
    It's not impossible. You're just not trying hard enough. Here, let me try............................I see.......I see....I see the scratches are superficial and is just in the clear coat. I'm pretty sure it's safe to ride.
    There, problem solved. Was it that hard?

  30. #30
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    Your ball is clearly more magical than mine....

  31. #31
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    HD Video?!?

    If it's not IMAX 3d, you are wasting your time filming any lightly scratched, inanimate, stationary object. That kind of subject demands much more than mere HD video, sheesh.

    -Walt

    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Why would you think that? There really isn't many good bike shops near me at all, so it is not easy to get a 2nd opinion without driiving 30 miles. I've taken pics and HD video of the damage. I just want to ride. I've been thinking about just buying another fork and forgetting about it. But that's not right, I shouldn't have to pay for someone elses mistakes.

  32. #32
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    You're a dweeb!

    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    I'm not trying to get approval, just opinions. So your saying there isn't anyone on mtbr with enough reputation and experience to give an opinion. I know it's hard without a pic. But I will be posting a few shortly.
    Your FIRST post should have had the pix! It's amazing how we get sucked into these threads before we realize where it's going!

    Get this much at least, "we" aren't going to make "your" problem go away! Get some kahonies and take care of the problem yourself.....
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

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    as a dupont certified carbon tech i say you need to subject it to a battery of tests that i will outline here first remove fork second lay fork on a flat piece of glass then using ur toungue gently run said tongue over scratch.what we r looking for is a taste between gummy bear and cheesestake.if u dont get that flavor u need to google "rabbit with a pancake on its head" then discard fork and start over

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Your FIRST post should have had the pix! It's amazing how we get sucked into these threads before we realize where it's going!

    Get this much at least, "we" aren't going to make "your" problem go away! Get some kahonies and take care of the problem yourself.....
    I know, just wanted some opinions, maybe some technical knowledge on the subject, but apparently there are no experts here.

    I didn't want to make a big deal out of nothing. The guys at the shop said all carbon forks have deep scratches on some spots. Something about the carbon sewing process.

    But if it breaks or starts cracking I'll just go back and shoot them all.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caffeine Powered View Post
    I'm calling BS on this. WTF were you doing taking the assembly apart after they did the work? I think you're fishing for opinions pointing the finger at this "unnamed shop" so you can use the thread to bully them. I think you F'd it up on your own and you're not man enough to accept the result of your own actions.
    Maybe he took it in to have a crown race installed.
    No moss...

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    I know, just wanted some opinions, maybe some technical knowledge on the subject, but apparently there are no experts here.

    I didn't want to make a big deal out of nothing. The guys at the shop said all carbon forks have deep scratches on some spots. Something about the carbon sewing process.

    But if it breaks or starts cracking I'll just go back and shoot them all.




    Before you go all Oprah Winfrey on us please put up some pics.

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    Why would I post pics considering you guys are just a bunch of trolls laughing at my predicamints?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Why would I post pics considering you guys are just a bunch of trolls laughing at my predicamints?
    Dude put up some pics and most of this so called trolling goes away, your creating your own drama. Pic or GTFO.

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    Wait, so you need pics...I told you half inch long, about 0.3mm deep, what the hell dude. the steerer tube wall is about 2mm thick. If anyone here was an expert they would already of been able to tell me if I should worry about it given those numbers? Pics are not needed, trust me. Look at a ruler, and estimate what 0.3mm. Then you tell me from your vast NASA carbon engineering knowledge if there will be an issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Why would I post pics considering you guys are just a bunch of trolls laughing at my predicamints?
    You're getting trolled because you're asking people to diagnose a situation that requires at least visual and probably hands on inspection to diagnose, yet all you're giving us is subjective, admittedly uneducated(on the topic at hand) observations.

    Example:

    "Maybe 0.3mm to 0.4mm thickness max I would estimate just by putting my fingernail in it. "

    Really? You're the one trolling. Post pics if you want advice. Keep posting crap like that if you want to keep getting trolled in return.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Wait, so you need pics...I told you half inch long, about 0.3mm deep, what the hell dude. the steerer tube wall is about 2mm thick. If anyone here was an expert they would already of been able to tell me if I should worry about it given those numbers? Pics are not needed, trust me. Look at a ruler, and estimate what 0.3mm. Then you tell me from your vast NASA carbon engineering knowledge if there will be an issue.
    No they wouldn't!! But you wouldn't know that, because you're not an expert on the issue, are you? You estimated 0.3mm off of your fingernail.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Wait, so you need pics...I told you half inch long, about 0.3mm deep, what the hell dude. the steerer tube wall is about 2mm thick. If anyone here was an expert they would already of been able to tell me if I should worry about it given those numbers? Pics are not needed, trust me. Look at a ruler, and estimate what 0.3mm. Then you tell me from your vast NASA carbon engineering knowledge if there will be an issue.



    Is that in pink bike mm's? Again, pics are needed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyatt79m View Post
    I can't figure out how it's possible to scratch it using the correct tool ? I know it's been said already but pics or ....
    Well, I can tell you they are not the brightest bunch in this shop. But I suppose I am even less bright for going there in the first place. I was really more lazy and eager to just get on the road unfortunately.

    But all in all they are very nice people it would seem and I am not going to mention their business name, etc. because that wouldn't be right. On the bright side I did find a better bike shop now however and will be doing my business there from now on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    You're getting trolled because you're asking people to diagnose a situation that requires at least visual and probably hands on inspection to diagnose, yet all you're giving us is subjective, admittedly uneducated(on the topic at hand) observations.

    Example:

    "Maybe 0.3mm to 0.4mm thickness max I would estimate just by putting my fingernail in it. "

    Really? You're the one trolling. Post pics if you want advice. Keep posting crap like that if you want to keep getting trolled in return.
    ya.. Dustoff, you need to post pic's "estimated" depths even the manufacture isn't going to give you an answer, and you haven't even mentioned what brand it is, and they all have diff clear coat thickness and such.. .. and now I'm wondering why you are soo hesitant?
    If you think you can post a question and only supply 1/2 the info and not get at least some joking around and crude remarks while everyone waits for the proper info,.. well you need to get a bit tougher skin before posting on the web, specially places like this!!
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    This has been a "kinder, gentler" response, I think almost everyone in the thread has been very patient in responding with requests for pics before proceeding in the usual nailing to the cross. My two cents.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS View Post
    This has been a "kinder, gentler" response, I think almost everyone in the thread has been very patient in responding with requests for pics before proceeding in the usual nailing to the cross. My two cents.
    agreed!!
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    Right, and if this were a forum with face to face interaction all these wussy remarks from the trolls would seize. Because MTBR is a place for sissy wuss boys to hide and play. I'm outta here, and good writtens idiots.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Right, and if this were a forum with face to face interaction all these wussy remarks from the trolls would seize. Because MTBR is a place for sissy wuss boys to hide and play. I'm outta here, and good writtens idiots.
    It's good riddance, not writtens. You are the only idiot in this thread.

    Please, do us all a favor, logout and forget this forum exists.

  49. #49
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    First you should describe the work the shop did, crown race install?

    You don't sound very experienced with bicycles, as installing a carbon fork requires a compression plug. Star nuts on a carbon fork are not a good idea. If you are not knowledgeable on compatibility you should let the LBS do the complete job then judge the result.

    From your limited description it sounds like you took it to the LBS to do part of the job and tried to finish it yourself, probably made some mistakes and trying to pass the buck. This happens - just sayin...

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Right, and if this were a forum with face to face interaction all these wussy remarks from the trolls would seize. Because MTBR is a place for sissy wuss boys to hide and play. I'm outta here, and good writtens idiots.
    if it were face to face we'd be able to see the fork.. and if you just walked in to the shop/store/what ever and gave 1/2 the info.. well they's be telling you to bring it in and let them see it. and if you kept acting as if they were nuts for needing to see it, and not giving you an answer from your "estimated" measurements... well they'd at the very least ask you to leave if not out right laugh you out of the store!!
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Right, and if this were a forum with face to face interaction all these wussy remarks from the trolls would seize. Because MTBR is a place for sissy wuss boys to hide and play. I'm outta here, and good writtens idiots.



    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/sZLKtjATZt0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  52. #52
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    Good writtens MTBR!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    good writtens .


    /\ This, will become an MTBR meme just like "map of the whole forest". And good writtens to you all.

  54. #54
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    That was the funniest thread I have seen in a while! Thx And good writtens...sick!


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  55. #55
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    Fletcher: You scratched my car!
    Impound Guy: Where?
    Fletcher: [showing him] Right there!
    Impound Guy: Oh. That was already there.
    Fletcher: You... you liar! You know what I'm going to do about this?
    Impound Guy: What?
    Fletcher: Nothing! Because if I take it to small claims court, it will just drain eight hours out of my life and you probably won't show up, and even if I got the judgment you'd just stiff me anyway. So what I'm gonna do is piss and moan like an impotent jerk and then bend over and take it up the tailpipe!
    Impound Guy: You've been here before, haven't ya?
    I thought of this immediately.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS View Post
    /\ This, will become an MTBR meme just like "map of the whole forest". And good writtens to you all.
    +1 My favorite MTBR thread of all time.

  57. #57
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    Can you at least post pictures of your fingernails?

    Then I could recalibrate my caliper.

  58. #58
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    Gloves are off now!

    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    I know, just wanted some opinions, maybe some technical knowledge on the subject, but apparently there are no experts here.

    I didn't want to make a big deal out of nothing. The guys at the shop said all carbon forks have deep scratches on some spots. Something about the carbon sewing process.

    But if it breaks or starts cracking I'll just go back and shoot them all.
    Ok you're not a dweeb, you're now an !d!ot! You're the only one here portraying themselves as a Trolll! The facts here as most would agree are:

    -You've got some technical opinions from some knowledgable people I'm sure

    -You have made a big deal of this if it's "nothing" as you say

    I suggest you shoot yourself in the head, if not foot, and give the forum a break.

    But before you do, how bout you at least send some pix of the "aleged" scratches/gouges you seem to have so loosely described to the "unamed" fork manufacturer and see what their take is on it! Then respond back with some legitimate info so maybe you'd get some replies more concise and to your liking. Keep in mind though, YOU still have to be the one to take care of buiznezz!!

    Geezus H forgive me for getting this deep into this.

    Think my rant is over
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  59. #59
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    Does anyone know a forensic artist/sketcher? I'm sure with the description of the alleged scratches and all of the shows on TV the cause of this can be solved!

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfacecreations View Post
    you see as a trainded farbon ciber guy this was the tech info i requested you google.kinda cures the whole issue no?

  62. #62
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    This is just another in the long line of threads where I can never tell if the OP is sincere or Trolling. I would feel much better about the world if they were all trolls.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Right, and if this were a forum with face to face interaction all these wussy remarks from the trolls would seize. Because MTBR is a place for sissy wuss boys to hide and play. I'm outta here, and good writtens idiots.
    Seize instead of cease is gold too! You really wouldn't want the trolls to seize you.


    This, will become an MTBR meme just like "map of the whole forest". And good writtens to you all.
    Link please, I missed that one.

  64. #64
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    Did we really have to degrade a helpless rabbit for this purpose?

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by BiknBob View Post
    Did we really have to degrade a helpless rabbit for this purpose?
    That's not a rabbit. Its a bunny.

  66. #66
    Sweep the leg!
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffw-13 View Post
    Maybe he took it in to have a crown race installed.
    Okay, let's work with that scenario. He takes the fork from the mechanic to see the crown race. But he doesn't notice the marks. IF they're so obvious why didn't he see them before pulling out his wallet to pay for the work? How does he know the marks weren't there when he brought the fork in? How does he know he didn't do it when he took the fork out. (not very likely, unless there was gravel in the head tube as he removed it.)

    I think it's one of two things
    - he did it and doesn't want to take responsibility
    -the marks were there all along and there's nothing he can do about it.
    Authorities speculate that speed may have been a factor. They are also holding gravity and inertia for questioning.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    . The star nut hadn't been installed yet.
    Wait a damn minute. What brand of fork is this? Were you aware that some brands of forks with carbons steers should NEVER have a star nut installed?

    Because the star nut will put grooves in the carbon

    And now I see you've threatened to shoot the guys at the shop

    I'm done with you. You're an idiot that deserves to have a fork fail on a ride.
    Authorities speculate that speed may have been a factor. They are also holding gravity and inertia for questioning.

  68. #68
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    These forks will scratch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bike shop gouged / scratched my carbon fork tube-hendrick-claws.jpg  


  69. #69
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    Wolverine:Pre-Origin!

  70. #70
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    As the man who invented carbon fiber, I can say without even seeing the fork that it's safe to ride. i hope you now feel confident using this fork.

    Sincerely,

    Al Gore

  71. #71
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    New twist into the thread

    Surprised nobody posed the question what this tool(troll?) is even doing with a carbon fiber component??

    Just say'n
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Surprised nobody posed the question what this tool(troll?) is even doing with a carbon fiber component??

    Just say'n



    Carbon for the masses, hopefully it thins the herd a bit.

  73. #73
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    this thread makes me happy,i can see the op right now gazing blankly at his comp screen sayin to himself "the pancake on that rabbits head isnt cabon fiber wtf"

  74. #74
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  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS View Post
    /\ This, will become an MTBR meme just like "map of the whole forest". And good writtens to you all.
    is that like "merry christmas?"
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  76. #76
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    This has been very amusing. I'm probably not the only one who would still like to see a picture before we say good writtens to this troll's fork tube thingy.

  77. #77
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    this is some funny stuff.

  78. #78
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    Awesome thread well worth the read
    And is a bunny with a pancake on its head a furry flapjack?

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Why would I post pics considering you guys are just a bunch of trolls laughing at my predicamints?
    Which kind are the predicamints?

    <img src=http://www.campaignbiz.com/images/mints/p7.jpg>
    My Artwork

    Hard words break no bones, fine words butter no parsnips.

  80. #80
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    Caring For Carbon Fiber Bicycles And Components

    Drop by a bike shop and hold a carbon handlebar, seatpost or fork, or better, lift one a full-carbon dream machines like my Cervelo (right), and you'll be startled at how little they weigh. The real surprise, though, comes on rides, when the featherweight and beautiful miracle material transfers more of your effort to the ground, dazzling you with acceleration, climbing, control and even comfort, superior to anything you've pedaled before.

    Indeed, carbon is so light and tough that Boeing picked it for their 787 "Dreamliner" jet. It's over 80% carbon, including the fuselage, which seats 300-plus passengers. And, perhaps the ultimate carbon creation ever, is the plane's 197-foot-wide wing. With the Dreamliner's 360,000-pound takeoff weight and Mach 0.85 cruising speed, this amazing and gossamer carbon structure must withstand a lift force of some 450,000 pounds.

    Yet, even with incredible strength and toughness like this, with a single careless act like over torquing a bolt, clamping your carbon wonder wrong in your repair stand, or letting the handlebars swing around and smash into the top tube, you can do some serious damage.

    It's possible because carbon has very different qualities than steel, aluminum and titanium, which you've probably ridden before. Unlike these metals, carbon is a synthetic composite material comprised of fibers soaked in epoxy resin and then compressed, heated and cured. Essentially, your carbon jewel is made up of a super-strong fabric, which requires a little new know-how on your part. The foremost being that while metal shows signs of damage, typically bends, dents or bulges, carbon may appear normal, yet, if compromised enough, even though you can't see the defect, the component could fail without warning. Another issue is notch sensitivity, which means that deep cuts, gouges or scratches can cause carbon to break and should be inspected by a pro immediately (and avoided!).

    Now that I've got your attention, there's really no reason for concern as long as you treat your carbon gear correctly. To help, I offer my best tips, and I picked the brains of every industry carbon guru I know, and culled information from the major carbon bike and component leaders' websites to bring you this guide to caring for and maintaining your carbon bicycles and components.

    Reading, understanding and following the guidelines, instructions and recommendations here will greatly increase the chances that you never have any problems. And, if you ever have a question or are unsure how to proceed, please read the instructions for your bike or the component you're working on (check the company's website), or contact the bicycle shop where you purchased the bike/component for help.

    There's a lot to know about carbon and many insider tips and tricks. So, for easy navigation, I've organized our guide into sections covering the issues, and tips for the individual components of a bicycle, too ó frame, fork, handlebars, seatposts, etc. Use the links below to quickly jump to any section. First, be sure to read the Basic Carbon Care section as it explains things pertinent to all carbon bicycles and components.

    Everyday Care Repainting
    Crash and Wear-and-Tear Inspections Frames and Forks
    Repair Stands Wheels and Rims
    Working On Your Bike Handlebars, Stems, Bar-Ends and Aero Clip-ons
    Car Racks Seatposts
    Cleaning and Washing Cranks and Bottom Brackets
    Touching up the Paint Acknowledgements
    BASIC CARBON CARE

    Get, Read, and Know your Owner's Manual
    All carbon bicycles and components include either print owner's manuals or digital versions you can read and download on the company's website. Before doing any service on your bicycle or components, you must thoroughly read and understand the manual. This is where you'll find the proper torque settings, any special tools or techniques that are required, warranty specifics, contact information and more. Most bike shops can answer and advise about the carbon products that they sell, however, the only way to be certain that you have the most up-to-date and accurate information about your specific item is to own, read and understand its specific owner's manual. Tips: An important aspect of this is ensuring that the parts you're assembling are compatible with each other. Never assume. Always read the instructions and make sure. In general, parts made by the same manufacturer and designed to work together are best.

    Everyday Care
    Some simple steps can ensure that your carbon bicycle becomes an heirloom. One of the easiest is parking it safely. Never lean it in such a way that it can roll and fall on its side or slam into anything. For example, don't rest the seat or frame against a pole and think it's safe (no matter how gently you placed it there), because the bike might move letting the frame crash against the pole, which could easily damage it. Or, the handlebars might swing around all the way and smack into the top tube. To prevent these risks lay the bike down in a safe place when you park it or at least ensure that it's resting on a level surface and leaning against a wall. Also, some companies recommend avoiding exposing your bicycle and components to high temperatures such as leaving them inside a parked car in the sun or storing them next to heat sources or radiators. Similarly, if you live by an ocean where there's lots of salt in the air, or if you're a person who sweats excessively, you should take extra care to clean and rinse the salt off your bicycle and components to protect them from any possible corrosion of the metal parts.

    Crash and Wear-and-Tear Inspections
    If you crash or abuse your bike, or forget that it's on your roof rack and ram it into your garage, look for signs of damage, and have them checked out. Remember that damage may not be visible to the untrained eye. Most shops are trained and able to inspect and advise so bring it by and get an expert opinion. And, do not ride until you're sure the bike/component is safe. Even if you never crash, you should frequently inspect your carbon bicycle and components for any gouges, deep scratches, cracks, loose fibers or other surface cracks and stop riding until you fix the problem.

    Tips: When cleaning, if your rag snags on something, it could be a sign of damage. Also carefully listen for uncommon sounds when riding, such as creaking or cracking or popping, which could mean there's a problem. And, if you suddenly find that your bike isn't shifting or braking properly, or it's not handling the same, stop and check the bike carefully. If you're not sure, don't take chances. Visit your bicycle shop and ask an expert to take a look. Also, while you may have heard that carbon can't be repaired, it actually can in many cases. I recommend Calfee Design.

    Repair Stands
    The mechanical clamping action of repair stands concentrates powerful loads in a small area so you should always clamp your carbon bicycle safely. Never clamp the frame. Instead, if you have a round aluminum seatpost, clamp that. If your seatpost is carbon, the safest thing to do is to purchase an inexpensive aluminum seatpost that's the same diameter as your post and then use it for clamping when you work on your bike. You can hold the bike by the carbon post if it's round and you clamp it gently, but you may scratch it unless you're very careful and the jaws of the repair stand clamp are safe (keep them clean of dirt and wrap a piece of wax paper around the seatpost to help prevent scratches).

    Working On Your Bike
    Here's where I see a lot of problems. Avoid them and protect your machine by being sure to read and understand the owner's manual for your bicycle and components before doing any work. Even as seemingly straightforward an issue as whether or not to grease components depends on the manufacturer's recommendations. Some say to never grease, some call for it on certain parts, and some recommend special greases made for carbon components.

    Over torquing is probably the biggest cause of cracks that I see in carbon products. And, it's much harder to determine the torque on a bolt by feel with carbon than it is with aluminum. The best way to avoid problems and do the job correctly is by getting a torque wrench and always using it and the company's torque chart when working on your bike. Here's some excellent information on proper tightening and torque specifications from our friends at Park Tool USA.

    Another important step is to check parts during installation and assembly to ensure that there are no burs, rough spots, dirt or metal shards that could cut into and harm the carbon when the components are assembled and tightened. The surfaces must be smooth or you should smooth them with fine sandpaper or by cleaning.

    You also need to work differently than you may be used to. For example, you may have gotten in the habit of putting a part on and then twisting it to see if it's tight and then tightening the bolt a little more if the part needs it. But, this is a recipe for disaster with carbon because by twisting/turning the part, you can cut into the carbon damaging it! With carbon you want to align parts once and then tighten completely. Or, if you need to fine-tune an adjustment, you should loosen fully, reset the part and tighten fully.

    Another metal-bicycle technique that won't work on carbon is trying to change the frame spacing. It's set to accept modern wheels perfectly. Never try to stretch or compress your frame more than 2mm or you may damage the frame or dropouts (it's impossible to bend carbon frames). Also, it may seem obvious but I've seen just about everything and I'd like to emphasize that you should never drill holes in your frame for any reason, no matter how logical it may seem at the time. If you're planning on doing so please contact an expert at your favorite bicycle shop, or the manufacturer first so they can advise.

    Tip: If you need to size your carbon handlebars (and the manual okays it), or cut your new fork to size, I recommend using a carbon-specific hacksaw blade. These blades essentially "sand" through the carbon instead of tearing through with teeth, which tend to fray and splinter the fibers in the composite. Itís also good practice to wrap the carbon with tape before cutting, though this is less necessary when using a carbon-specific blade.

    Car Racks
    Car racks that clamp to the frame tubes should not be used because of the enormous loads concentrated in a small area. Likewise, when using racks that clamp the fork, never pull sideways (and be careful not to lose your balance, which can cause this) when removing the bike because this can break the dropouts (fork tips). Always fully loosen the fork mount and then lift until the fork is clear of the mount before removing the bike. And with tall-section carbon wheels, you may need to use a different, longer strap. Use caution to protect the rim with pipe insulation or something that keeps the strap from compressing or chafing the rim as it gets jostled when you're driving.

    Cleaning and Washing
    It's fine to wash carbon bicycles and components like you would any other using warm soapy water and a hose. Yet, as with any bike, it's never a good idea to aim the water directly at bearings (headsets, cranks, etc) because that can wash the grease out. For especially greasy components any bike-safe degreaser, which shops can supply, will work fine and won't effect the carbon in any way. After cleaning, rinsing and drying, I recommend adding a little protection with a bike polish or spray wax (Pledge furniture polish works nicely and you simply spray it on and wipe it off).

    Touching up the Paint
    Stone dings, chips and scratches aren't usually anything to worry about in terms of strength and longevity. Most carbon bicycles feature clear-coat finishes, which are easy to touch up. All you need is a little clear nail polish or model paint and you can cover the spot to seal it and restore the finish. Another possible risk is throwing the chain during shifting, either onto the bottom bracket or off the large chainring. This won't damage anything as long as you stop pedaling right away, though I would recommend letting a mechanic check the shifting since a properly adjusted bicycle shouldn't toss the chain. Should the chain nick or chip the finish, simply clean the area and touch it up to protect it. Tip: to protect the bottom bracket area from dropped chains, you can put a strip of electrical tape on it.

    Chain "Suck"
    Chain suck is mostly a mountain-bike glitch that results from worn, dry, muddy or damaged parts, and from bad shifting technique, too. What happens is the chain gets grabbed and "sucked" up, jamming between the chainring and chainstay. You can generate a lot of force with your legs and if you don't realize what's going on and you just keep pedaling, the chain can "saw" into the frame and damage it (even steel frames). So, if you experience chain suck on a ride, stop pedaling immediately, and avoid riding in the gears that are causing it. When you get home, clean or adjust or replace the faulty parts to prevent it from happening again. Or bring your bike in to your mechanic and let her diagnose and repair the problem for you. If you did pedal and mar your frame, they should also take a look and make sure it's okay.

    Repainting
    Should your bike need repainting at some point, it must be done correctly and carefully. I recommend using a professional bicycle painter who understands carbon frames, such as Calfee Design. Caution must be used because any paint stripper that will remove polyurethane/urethane paint will also damage the epoxy resin matrix holding your carbon together. So do not use paint stripper. Also, you must not sandblast, beadblast or blast with any other media to remove the paint because that can remove structural material ruining the frameset. If you do decide to repaint, the correct approach is careful hand sanding to remove the decals and scuff the topcoat to receive the new finish. Finally, do not bake a carbon frame at over 150 degrees Fahrenheit (baking is often used in painting metal frames) as that will damage it, too.

    CARE OF BICYCLES AND COMPONENTS

    Frames and Forks
    It's impossible to bend carbon frames, so never try to stretch or compress the frame to change the spacing. It's set to accept modern wheels perfectly and will only flex by about 2mm. By forcing it you can structurally damage the frame or dropouts. Also, it may seem obvious but I've seen just about everything and would like to emphasize that you should never drill holes in your frame for any reason, no matter how logical it may seem at the time. If you're planning on doing so please contact an expert mechanic first to get a second opinion.

    When installing bottom bracket cups do not use thread adhesives as this can secure them too tightly in the frame and cause damage to the threads when it's time to replace them. Instead, I recommend greasing the cups.

    When cutting a new fork to size, I recommend using a carbon-specific hacksaw blade. These blades essentially "sand" through the carbon instead of tearing through with teeth, which tend to fray and splinter the fibers in the composite. Itís also good practice to wrap the carbon with tape before cutting, though this is less necessary when using a carbon-specific blade.

    Of course, the old saying measure twice, cut once is never more appropriate than when sizing forks. Cutting a fork too short can completely ruin it, so be sure to read the manual to understand how to fit it and how to measure it according to the specific instructions for your type of fork. Keep in mind that the fork, headset, insert, spacers and stem act as a system so you need to consider all these things when sizing and installing a fork to get it right. If you're in doubt at all, letting a mechanic size and install the fork for you is strongly recommended and well worth the reasonable cost. When installed correctly the front end of your bicycle will be an integral part of your bike that fits the frame and you perfectly, and that requires only routine maintenance, too.

    When installing a headset, grease the insides and faces of the head tube where the cups go in, as well as the crown race seat of the fork. Cups should be professionally installed by a bike shop mechanic with a headset press, a special tool for the job that maintains correct alignment of the head cups during assembly.

    Carbon forks usually require special longer brake nuts that come with the forks. Standards brake nuts usually won't work, so be sure to get and use the correct one (they often come with new forks or shops can sell you one).

    Crashed or damaged frames and forks that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or those that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by a qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the components should be replaced or repaired.

    Wheels and Rims
    Safety first! If your wheels have carbon rims be sure to get and use the specific type of brake pads recommended by the manufacturer. Also, use only plastic tire levers when fixing flats because metal ones can damage carbon rims unless you're careful.

    Speaking of flats, you probably know not to ride on any flat tire, but on a carbon rim, it's even more important and could ruin the wheel, especially on a clincher carbon rim, which has tall sidewalls that could delaminate should they contact the pavement for very long. Of course, as with all wheels, be sure to check tire inflation before every ride. Failing to do this can lead to rim damage, as it would on an aluminum rim, should you hit a pothole or rock and bottom out the soft tire.

    For sew-up (tubular) carbon wheels, on which you must glue the tires, be sure to prepare the rims by scuffing them lightly with steel wool to clean and slightly abrade them. Then glue the tires on. Keep in mind that, like any sew-up, if the tire remains on the rim too long, it can be difficult to remove, and on carbon wheels this can result in damage to the rim when you try to take the tire off and some carbon comes with it. If you know you're not going to ride your carbon wheels for a long time, such as over the winter, it's best to take the precaution of removing the tires so this can't happen.

    Spokes can loosen on any wheel and should be checked regularly for optimum tension. Carbon wheels often have tall rims that are very stiff and this can make it difficult to tell that the spokes are loose because the wheel may barely go out of true. If you just keep riding, the spoke tension can go down to nearly nothing compromising the strength and ruining the ride. So, be sure to check tension regularly by squeezing the spokes, or if you're not sure, having a wheelbuilder at the bike shop check it for you. A good practice is to have any wheel checked for tension at least yearly, or more if you ride a lot. It's a good idea to have the bearings inspected at the same time, too, and serviced as needed.

    When securing a bicycle with carbon wheels on a car rack be sure not to use straps that can chafe and cut into the rim. With tall rims you may need to replace the stock strap with a longer one. Just be sure to pad the rim against damage.

    One thing that won't harm carbon rims/wheels is hanging a bicycle from them on hooks for storage. They can easily support the weight of the bike.

    Crashed or damaged wheels that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or those that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by a qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the components should be replaced or repaired.

    Handlebars, Stems, Bar-Ends and Aero Clip-ons
    One of the most important steps any time you're clamping things together, such as handlebars and stems is to be certain that the parts are made to work together. If they're not, they may not assemble correctly, or worse, you could actually ruin a part as soon as you tighten the clamp. Always check the component's directions before assembly to be safe or ask your mechanic.

    As long as you're assembling parts made to go together you won't run into the following issue and you can skip to the next paragraph. If you're matching up parts you're not certain about, however, it's good to know that another precaution is to never use a stem or bar-end with a slot that's not in line with the clamp and a bolt which isn't perpendicular to the slot. This arrangement causes the clamp to close unevenly driving one edge into the carbon handlebar, which will crack and ruin it. You can check for this by eyeballing the slot and the bolt. An imaginary line should exactly bisect the clamp and slot. If you're not sure, place your finger inside the clamp and snug the bolt feeling for any deformation of the clamp as it closes. It must remain completely round as it's tightened in order to be safe.

    Also, make certain that the diameter of the fork and stem, and the stem and handlebar match. And make sure that all surfaces are smooth and free of any defects, dirt, burs or sharp edges that could cause damage. Also make sure the components are free of oil, grease and grime. Tip: The one exception is that it's okay to put a small amount of grease on the handlebar center section, which will help the stem's clamping surface spread the force around the bar.

    A common practice with metal handlebars and stems is to snug them up and then test to see if they're tight enough by tugging or twisting. Never do this with carbon bars and stems as twisting and tugging can turn the parts, scratching and/or scoring them leading to failure. Always align the components correctly first, then tighten fully to the recommend torque specification. And, if you need to change the adjustment, be sure to fully loosen and open the clamp before moving the part.

    When mounting brake and shift levers, inspect them carefully, especially at the clamps to ensure that there are no burs or sharp edges that can cut into the carbon handlebars. As I mentioned with the bars themselves, be sure not to twist the levers to move them into place because that can score and cut the carbon causing failure. Always loosen the clamps fully, reposition the lever, align it carefully and then tighten it. Tip: You can also disassemble the lever clamp and slide it alone into place on the handlebars and then install the lever. To align drop-bar levers rest a straightedge against the bottom portion of the handlebar. The tip of the brake lever should just touch the straightedge, or you can move the lever up as much as 10mm if you like a higher lever position.

    Tip: If you need to size your carbon handlebars (and the manual okays it), I recommend using a carbon-specific hacksaw blade. These blades essentially "sand" through the carbon instead of tearing through with teeth, which tend to fray and splinter the fibers in the composite. Itís also good practice to wrap the carbon with tape before cutting, though this is less necessary when using a carbon-specific blade.

    Bar-ends and Aero Clip-ons
    The owner's manual with your handlebar will say whether it is compatible with bar-ends or aero clip-on handlebars. If it is, be sure to then select bar-ends or clip-ons designed for carbon handlebars.

    Crashed or damaged handlebars and stems that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or those that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by a qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the components should be replaced or repaired.

    Seatposts
    Do not use regular grease on any carbon seatposts or carbon seat tubes. Tip: There is a new carbon grease (sometimes called carbon paste) available that includes small particles so it protects and grips, however, unless you have this special product, you shouldn't use any grease.

    Make certain that the diameter of the frame and the seatpost match. And make sure that the surface of the frame's seat tube is smooth and free of any defects, dirt, burs or sharp edges, especially at the clamp, which could damage the seatpost. Also make sure it's free of oil, grease and grime.

    When inserting seatposts, always insert them just enough to achieve your proper seat height. Putting them too low and then having to raise them could result in scratching and damaging them.

    Tip: Never put a scratch in a carbon seatpost to mark it, either! Doing so can ruin the seatpost and cause it to break. Instead mark your seat height by wrapping a piece of electrical tape around it right at the frame or by painting a line on it.

    Before tightening seatposts, pay particular attention to the orientation of the seat collar. When using a carbon post, itís very important to have the seat collar slot on the opposite side of the seat tube slot. This helps disperse the loads better, reducing the possibility of pinching and crushing the seatpost, as well as reducing frame damage. Diagonally slotted seat collars are highly recommended.

    When tightening, never overtighten the seatpost clamp on the frame or you can ruin the seatpost and even damage the frame. First, check your owner's manual for the frame or clamp, follow the instructions, and tighten the seatpost to the required specifications with your torque wrench.

    Crashed or damaged seatposts that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or those that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by a qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the component should be replaced or repaired.

    Cranks and Bottom Brackets
    When installing pedals check carefully that there are no burs or defects on the pedal axle seats (the areas that rest against the crankarms) that could cut, gouge or scratch the crankarms during installation. Also, never install washers between the pedals and the arms as this can increase stress on the crankarms.

    Be certain to check your front derailleur regularly. It's possible to catch your pants in it and bend it, or you might try to fine-tune it and change its motion slightly. Either of these things could endanger your crankarm by allowing the front derailleur cage to move too far to the outside when you've shifted onto your large chainring. When this is the case, the derailleur cage may gently brush against the inside of the right crankarm with each pedal revolution. You might not even feel or hear this, yet with only a few rides, this could lead to serious damage to your carbon crankarm.

    Though it's unlikely to do any serious crankarm damage, use care when walking your bicycle up curbs and over similar obstacles, too. If a crankarm is at 6 o'clock, you could strike the end of the arm against the cement and mar it.

    A common shifting/drivetrain glitch on mountain bikes, and even sometimes on road bikes is called "chain suck." It results from worn, dry, muddy or damaged parts, and from bad shifting technique, too. What happens is the chain gets grabbed and "sucked" up, jamming between the chainring and chainstay. You can generate a lot of force with your legs and if you don't realize what's going on and you just keep pedaling, the chain can saw into the frame and damage it (even steel frames). If you experience chain suck on a ride, stop pedaling immediately, and avoid riding in the gears that are causing it. When you get home, clean or adjust or replace the faulty parts to prevent it from happening again. Or bring your bike in and let a good mechanic diagnose and repair the problem for you. If you did pedal and mar your frame, she should also take a look and make sure it's okay.

    When installing bottom brackets, I recommend greasing the threads and following the manufacturer's recommended torque setting. Caution: do not use thread adhesives (Loctite) on the bottom bracket threads! Loctited cups require additional torque to remove, which may exceed the torque limit on the frame's bottom bracket and damage it.

    As with all other components, crashed or damaged crankarms that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or crankarms that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by a qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the crankarm should be replaced.

    I would like to thank these companies for help with this article (in alphabetical order): Bontrager, Calfee Design, Campagnolo, Easton, FSA, Hed Cycling Products, Kestrel, Orbea, Park Tool, Reynolds Composites, Shimano, Specialized and Trek.

  81. #81
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    The carbon bible! (i hear angels singing). So sayith the shepard so sayith the flock. Build me a church Elias.

  82. #82
    NedwannaB
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    Yeah saw that

    Quote Originally Posted by neveride View Post
    Which kind are the predicamints?
    Just couldn't "seize" the "momint"!!
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  83. #83
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    Yikes. Seems somebody anonymous has no sense of humor in here. I got a bad rep because I posted the pancake rabbit. Must suck being that person.

  84. #84
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    The FYAD is strong in this thread.

  85. #85
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    I would not ride it. I stuck my fingernail in a crack on my desk and it looked really deep. When I triangulated the scenario to some of my carbon equipment I can definately, without doubt, tell you the steerer would break off somewhere between 3 and 259 days. If you need further testing done you can mail it to me and I can use some intergalatic laser pressure tuning to tell the exact time it will fail. PM if you need the address for mailing and it will be a $350 charge for the testing.

  86. #86
    mtbr member extraordinair
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    mtbr advice: "Please post pics so we can better evaluate the situation and give our informed advice"

    pinkbike advice: "WTF?!? That LBS screwed you!! Sue those mother*&@#!s!!!"

    good writtens
    Grit, spit, and a whole lot of duct tape!

  87. #87
    Plays with tools
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustOff View Post
    Look at a ruler, and estimate what 0.3mm. Then you tell me from your vast NASA carbon engineering knowledge if there will be an issue.
    Oddly enough composites aren't used in space craft very often. They don't transfer heat very well at all and so tying them into the rest of the structure that expands and contracts with the extreme temperature ranges is pretty tricky.

    Pictures are always helpful. But they rarely replace the need to have it inspected by a qualified mechanic. Which is what you need to do.

  88. #88
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    Looks like Dustoff has abandoned this thread. I'm 100% sure we will never see a picture of his fork.

    At least we got good writtens ouu of it.

  89. #89
    AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by 202cycle View Post
    Looks like Dustoff has abandoned this thread. I'm 100% sure we will never see a picture of his fork.

    At least we got good writtens ouu of it.



    Yep, good writtens to him.

  90. #90
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    I can't stop laughing. Signed up just in case he comes back.

    That was priceless.

  91. #91
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    Phew! So glad this topic came up because I too have had a carbon fork toob booboo - but I do have pics. Can you expurts tell me if my fix will hold up as my LHS cut the toob too short and I added a piece back on. If the stem straddles the bandaid shouldn't it be OK. Thanks for the help.
    Bike shop gouged / scratched my carbon fork tube-forkphoto.jpg
    Bike shop gouged / scratched my carbon fork tube-forkphoto2.jpg

  92. #92
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    As long as it's a 29er, carbon specific band-aid you will be fine. In fact, that looks more like a thermal expansion joint, rather than a true "cut".

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbart43 View Post
    Phew! So glad this topic came up because I too have had a carbon fork toob booboo - but I do have pics. Can you expurts tell me if my fix will hold up as my LHS cut the toob too short and I added a piece back on. If the stem straddles the bandaid shouldn't it be OK. Thanks for the help.
    What's the fingernail-based depth of that cut?

    Was the guy who cut it too short a nice guy?
    2016 Honzo Ti
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  94. #94
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  95. #95
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    I think that will be fine. That's how I fixed this one
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caffeine Powered View Post
    I'm calling BS on this. WTF were you doing taking the assembly apart after they did the work? I think you're fishing for opinions pointing the finger at this "unnamed shop" so you can use the thread to bully them. I think you F'd it up on your own and you're not man enough to accept the result of your own actions.
    Word.
    There's always money in the banana stand.

  97. #97
    The White Jeff W
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    What a pre Madonna! People never seize to amaze me. Good writtens
    No moss...

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffw-13 View Post
    What a pre Madonna! People never seize to amaze me. Good writtens
    Sir, I would like to offer you a complimint for your post, but I am fresh out.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by neveride View Post
    Which kind are the predicamints?

    <img src=http://www.campaignbiz.com/images/mints/p7.jpg>
    I love it! Or it could be these-


    or these-

  100. #100
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    good writtens mtbr. im out
    Gary Fisher HiFi Deluxe 29er

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