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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    it has lock nuts, i just dont think people are using them correctly
    I'm wondering too, I've had zero slippage. Granted I only weigh about 165, but have done quite a bit of climbing on it already. I did tighten the sliders with a 3/8" socket wrench and driver that afforded a lot of leverage.

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    How does lock washers come after tack welding?
    Lock washers is step one. Many bikes come with them.
    It was a joke.....

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    It was a joke.....
    I get jokes... no really
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by alefak View Post
    Mine definately slipped a lot intially out of the box. Heres what works best w/o filing paint off. Loosen the hex nuts a little bit so the sliders will slide but not too much or the frame will spread. loosen the lock nuts on the chain tensioner bolts. Tighten the chain tensioner bolts on each side to set the chain tension to be fairly tight and to center the wheel in the frame. Note: If you dont get the slack out of the chain, every time you bumb the cranks you are jerking the drive side forward with more force. Once you get the chain tight and the wheel centered, tighten the lock nuts really tight against the drop out to hold the tensioner bolts in place and to keep them from backing out. You have to use two 8mm wrenches, one to hold the tensioner and the other to tighten the lock nut against the drop out. Then tighten the hex bolts with a metric wrench, not a hex key.
    Absolutley correct, and the tensioner bolts have course thread so it doesn't take many turns to move the wheel. I think that my wheel moved in the initial setup for two reasons....the tensioner bolts had not been correctly adjusted plus there wasn't near enough torque applied to the mounting bolts because I was using a small hex key not a wrench with some leverage.

    The fact that the Paint came off under the bolt heads didn't help either.....I wonder if this is a problem unique to the orange paint only??

  5. #405
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    Had my first ride on her this weekend. LOVED it! Curious about something though...This is my first bike with disc brakes. After adjusting the pads, then taking off the front wheel to go to the trails, the pads needed to be re-aligned when I put the wheel back on. Will this happen every time I take off and reinstall the front wheel? Or will it eventually work it self out?

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by ply5013 View Post
    Had my first ride on her this weekend. LOVED it! Curious about something though...This is my first bike with disc brakes. After adjusting the pads, then taking off the front wheel to go to the trails, the pads needed to be re-aligned when I put the wheel back on. Will this happen every time I take off and reinstall the front wheel? Or will it eventually work it self out?
    No you should not have to mess with it after you get it set up.

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by ply5013 View Post
    Had my first ride on her this weekend. LOVED it! Curious about something though...This is my first bike with disc brakes. After adjusting the pads, then taking off the front wheel to go to the trails, the pads needed to be re-aligned when I put the wheel back on. Will this happen every time I take off and reinstall the front wheel? Or will it eventually work it self out?
    My old bike with track ends and bolt on wheels needed readjustment every time a wheel was removed. So far the Luddite has been great in this regard.

  8. #408
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    That's what I was hoping. Thanks.

  9. #409
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    I think the slipping sliders has finally stopped. Ive tighten them soo many times and theyve moved so many times, that they are pretty much fixed now. The wheel is still slightly crooked, but its not rubbing anywhere and honestly im sick of messing with it. So if you're worried about the sliders moving, eventually they will stop once you chew up paint on drop out enough.

    Save yourself some time, and just remove the paint with a file as soon as you get the bike.

    I did a personal best distance record last night of almost 12 miles, and the back wheel never moved.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    Save yourself some time, and just remove the paint with a file as soon as you get the bike.
    disagree, save yourself some time and dont remove everything to file off your dropouts, set your dropouts up properly or get someone that knows how to to help you...use the tensioner screws to get the wheel aligned properly (yours being crooked tells me you didnt do this correctly), lock em down with the lock nut the way alefak mentioned (securing the tensioner screw while tightening the lock bolt), and properly torque the slider bolts, its a really simple process that should need to be done once and last a good while

  11. #411
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    Some upgrades...

    This was from today's 10.5 mile ride, my first since swapping out the bars/stem/seat post/saddle/brake levers/grips. Between these changes and going tubeless, the bike is a dream to ride. Once I can pony up some cash for a decent wheel-set, it'll be complete.

    All parts swapped are carbon Easton Haven, except for the saddle and levers of course. Ol' school Selle Italia Flite and Avid SpeedDial 7 levers. Oury lock-ons... Much better!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-img_20120807_102050.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-img_20120807_102101.jpg  


  12. #412
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    Also picked up some Alligator Superfortress brake cables/housing, but I haven't had time to install them yet...

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    disagree, save yourself some time and dont remove everything to file off your dropouts, set your dropouts up properly or get someone that knows how to to help you...use the tensioner screws to get the wheel aligned properly (yours being crooked tells me you didnt do this correctly), lock em down with the lock nut the way alefak mentioned (securing the tensioner screw while tightening the lock bolt), and properly torque the slider bolts, its a really simple process that should need to be done once and last a good while
    Ive done all of this pal, to the point of almost breaking it from tightening so hard. If you've noticed, im not the only one with this problem.

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    Ive done all of this pal, to the point of almost breaking it from tightening so hard. If you've noticed, im not the only one with this problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    The wheel is still slightly crooked, but its not rubbing anywhere and honestly im sick of messing with it.
    im sorry pal, but if you cant get the wheel straight in the dropouts when you are adjusting it, you are doing it wrong...what are you tightening so hard that it almost breaks? find that a bit of hyperbole...i think your problem lies in the adjuster/tensioning screws and locknuts

    have had mine for a month and a half now, and the wheel moved after my first couple of rides with no adjustments out of the box...i then adjusted it properly myself, and 250 miles later wheel is in perfect alignment and chain is still tensioned

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    Ive done all of this pal, to the point of almost breaking it from tightening so hard. If you've noticed, im not the only one with this problem.
    Did you change cogs? I'm wondering because I installed a 21t and with the stock chain it was too tight, pulling to one side and off center. I never rode it like that and installed a new chain. In my limited experience, a chain that is too tight with too much drive train friction can also cause slippage and other problems like pulling to the drive side.

  16. #416
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    If I'm doing something wrong please advise..

    I loosen up the allen key slider bolts and the tensioner bolt. Everything is lose and free to move around. I then line up the wheel by hand and begin tightening the adjusters until the wheel is straight and the chain is tight, but not super tight. I then Lock the tensioners as tight as I can humanly tighten them. I then tighten the slider allen key bolts in the rear and torque as tight as i can. I'm a big fella and I work out regularly, so I'm quite confident that I am tightening them enough. My only guess is my weight. I weigh 240lbs.

    But like I said before, they haven't moved in a week. The chain is tight, but the tire is a bit closer to the left side of my bottom triangle than the right. Not a big deal, but I find myself constantly looking down there to see if it has slid.

    I still enjoy this bike very much, I just have a tendency to vent sometimes when I cant find a remedy to a problem.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    If I'm doing something wrong please advise..

    I loosen up the allen key slider bolts and the tensioner bolt. Everything is lose and free to move around. I then line up the wheel by hand and begin tightening the adjusters until the wheel is straight and the chain is tight, but not super tight. I then Lock the tensioners as tight as I can humanly tighten them. I then tighten the slider allen key bolts in the rear and torque as tight as i can. I'm a big fella and I work out regularly, so I'm quite confident that I am tightening them enough. My only guess is my weight. I weigh 240lbs.

    But like I said before, they haven't moved in a week. The chain is tight, but the tire is a bit closer to the left side of my bottom triangle than the right. Not a big deal, but I find myself constantly looking down there to see if it has slid.

    I still enjoy this bike very much, I just have a tendency to vent sometimes when I cant find a remedy to a problem.
    Sounds to me like you are using the proper procedure to set the sliders up with the alignment bolts.... but....if you are using a hex key or regular L shaped Allen wrench you cannot possibly be applying enough torque to get the bolts tight enough.

    Do yourself a favor and take one of the bolts to a hardware store and get a hex socket that will work on a large socket wrench. I think his will solve your movement problem. I have found that I can't possibly tighten it enough otherwise to prevent movement at my size and weight. I am at around 215 lbs. and mine has not moved at all since I got rid of the bubbling paint under the bolt heads, greased the threads and torqued it all down with a socket wrench. Make sure that your chain has a slight amount of slack also. I wouldn't worry (much) about stripping the threads out either, they can handle the torque.

    This is an awesome bike and it just needs to be set up correctly to be problem free. I am at about 300 miles and will soon need to take some slack out of the chain as it has stretched slightly....... Good luck

  18. #418
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    I put new wheels on my bike and weighed the stock ones last night. For those that are still curious, without skewers, with valve stems and two layers of gorilla tape they weigh 2355 grams.

    I have a new chain ring on order. I noticed on my bike that at a particular point in the crank revolution the chain gets super tight. It's pretty loose the rest of the time so I assume the ring is ovalized. Perhaps others who are having issues with the sliders coming loose might have the same problem.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zakman View Post
    I put new wheels on my bike and weighed the stock ones last night. For those that are still curious, without skewers, with valve stems and two layers of gorilla tape they weigh 2355 grams.

    I have a new chain ring on order. I noticed on my bike that at a particular point in the crank revolution the chain gets super tight. It's pretty loose the rest of the time so I assume the ring is ovalized. Perhaps others who are having issues with the sliders coming loose might have the same problem.
    You might be able to loosen the bolts on the ring and move it slightly to minimize the tight spot. Most of these are slightly out of round and a little minor adjustment can fix the issue. Lots of threads on this topic. Mine seemed pretty good with a minor tight spot just like my other single speed.

  20. #420
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    My new screen saver, my orange Luddute is coming this Tuesday
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-screen-shot-2012-07-12-9_21_23-pm-365x550.png  


  21. #421
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    I got mine in the mail today. It took about an hour to carefully unbox and assemble and tune everything perfect. The stock wheel/tire combo is sooooo heavy. Much heavier than I expected. I put on Crank brothers wheels w/ Kenda Small Block 8 tires, Crank Brothers carbon handlebar, Specialized seatpost, WTB Speed V Pro Gel saddle, Oury Grips, Wellgo Magnesium Flat pedals, Surly Single Speed Cassette spacers, Chris King 17T cog. In a 17" size medium it weighs 23.5 lbs according to my digital bathroom scale. I weigh exactly 200lbs so holding the bike and doing the math is easy. I took it on a little cruise around the neighborhood to get a feel for it. It rides very nice. I was going over speedbumps and jumping curbs to see how it felt. The steering felt a bit twitchy so I'll put on a shorter stem soon. Overall it rode nice and was the opposite of harsh. It's downright plush for a rigid bike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-025.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-028.jpg  


  22. #422
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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-002.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-003.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-004.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-008.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-014.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-015.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-016.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-017.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-018.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-luddy-019.jpg  


  23. #423
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    Shorter stem will make the steering feely even more twitchy

  24. #424
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    I decided the orange grips and pedals were a bit too much orange for me so I went black and added a thud buster.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-ludditey-002.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-ludditey-004.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-ludditey-006.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-ludditey-007.jpg  

    Last edited by LittleBuddy; 08-14-2012 at 06:29 PM.

  25. #425
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    Very Nice!

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleBuddy View Post
    My new screen saver, my orange Luddute is coming this Tuesday
    nice shot but next time heat your studio,, she looks cold! LOL
    “An adventure is misery and discomfort, relived in the safety of reminiscence.” Marco Polo

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by t0pcat View Post
    nice shot but next time heat your studio,, she looks cold! LOL
    And she needs a hair light to help separate her from the background ...

  28. #428
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    I put a stubby DJ stem on and now the bike feels perfectly balanced. It took the weighted twitchy feeling away from the steering.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-what-004.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-what-005.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-what-006.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-what-008.jpg  


  29. #429
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    How do you like the Thudbuster ST. I tried the LT but WAY too much movement.

  30. #430
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    I had the LT too, hated it , ST is awesome and just barely heavier than a regular seat post, it just looks ugly.

  31. #431
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    I was out for a ride on rocky singletrack this AM.....and noticed play and noise developing in the lower headset bearing. Came home, took the top cap off...curious to see if it is a carbon or aluminum steer tube.....I couldnt tell from what was exposed ( I didn't pull the fork out ) ..adjusted the bearing pre load and re-assembled.

    Is the steer tube carbon or aluminum?? Anyone know?? I am leaning towards carbon because there isn't a normal star nut to attach the top cap to....looks like a pressed in or molded in anchor nut.

    Why is there a spring between the top cap and anchor nut?? I have never seen this before.
    Last edited by borbntm; 08-19-2012 at 03:19 PM.

  32. #432
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    It's a carbon steerer w/ a compression plug hence the funny hardware inside.

    Civilian Luddite Review from Drunkcyclist

    here's a must see review of the Luddite w/ chick pics NSFW

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleBuddy View Post
    It's a carbon steerer w/ a compression plug hence the funny hardware inside.

    Civilian Luddite Review from Drunkcyclist

    here's a must see review of the Luddite w/ chick pics NSFW
    Thanks for the info on the fork, I hope the carbon steerer holds up..... and great pics by the way!

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleBuddy View Post
    It's a carbon steerer w/ a compression plug hence the funny hardware inside.

    Civilian Luddite Review from Drunkcyclist

    here's a must see review of the Luddite w/ chick pics NSFW
    Hard to take the review too seriously when juxtaposed with soft porn.

  35. #435
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    I've ridden this bike a handful of times now and I love it. I swapped out the tires to Conti XKings and put a 110mm stem on.

    Has anybody bought the derailleur hanger dropout for this bike yet? A Google search didn't come up with anything.

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalAl View Post
    I've ridden this bike a handful of times now and I love it. I swapped out the tires to Conti XKings and put a 110mm stem on.

    Has anybody bought the derailleur hanger dropout for this bike yet? A Google search didn't come up with anything.
    I think the bike comes with one.

  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalAl View Post
    I've ridden this bike a handful of times now and I love it. I swapped out the tires to Conti XKings and put a 110mm stem on.

    Has anybody bought the derailleur hanger dropout for this bike yet? A Google search didn't come up with anything.
    Mine came with one....

  38. #438
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    Mine did not come with one. The original description said it did but it has since been updated saying it is available for an additional fee.

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    I think the bike comes with one.
    It sounds like some people get one and some don't, mine definitely did not come with one. I bought mine about a month and half ago from Huck and Roll. I've messaged Civilian and I'll post the response here if/when I get one.
    Alan

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalAl View Post
    It sounds like some people get one and some don't, mine definitely did not come with one. I bought mine about a month and half ago from Huck and Roll. I've messaged Civilian and I'll post the response here if/when I get one.
    Alan
    I got one too. Contact Backcountry and I'm sure they'll send you one.

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalAl View Post
    It sounds like some people get one and some don't, mine definitely did not come with one. I bought mine about a month and half ago from Huck and Roll. I've messaged Civilian and I'll post the response here if/when I get one.
    Alan
    I have a follow up; Civilian gave me a very quick response, unfortunately the response was that all distribution of any kind is handled by Competitive Cyclist. So I emailed them regarding the hanger and a couple of days later I got this response-
    "Unfortunately, we are currently out of stock of those dropouts according to our shop. I would suggest contacting us back in a few weeks to see if we received more in stock."
    This is a pretty disappointing response to say the least. I'm not in a rush to get the hanger dropout but I would like to know that it is available when I decide I'd like to buy it. The dropouts used are Tange but a Google search doesn't come up with anything I could buy. Anyone who wants to buy this bike and immediately convert it to a geared bike should make sure they can get the other dropout before buying the bike.
    Alan

  42. #442
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    pretty sure paragons slider will work
    i also got a hanger version with mine a few months back

  43. #443
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    Mine came with a hanger dropout.

  44. #444
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    I found this thread about Tanghe dropouts. IRD/Tange Sliders? Opps. never mind the rest of this post. I read it wrong.

  45. #445
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    How is everyone doing out there with there Civilian Ludittes? I can imagine that we all have more than a few rides logged..... Any issues to report?? Mine is doing great at around 300 miles now. Feels more like an ATV at times than a bicycle with the wide bars and the big heavy Nevagel tires. I have found that it rolls over just about any trail obstacle without beating me up to bad. Keeping it singlespeed for now, great workout machine!

    I noticed that the Whiskey brand carbon fork looks very similar to what came with the Luditte. At least we can get a replacement if needed.

  46. #446
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    I have about 250 miles logged, and cant be any happier. I was having an issue with my sliders "Sliding", but its all better now. No more movement.

  47. #447
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    Mine

    Here is Mine, not really a review but figured I would post some pics. It took over a month to get the bike from Dept of Goods, during that timeframe I had messed up my knee, bike came literally the day of my surgery than set in the box for another month before I even took it out. No geared dropout which was a bummer becasue don't want to hit knee too hard at first. I think I am better off keeping SS though, other option is used parts 1x9.

    Anyway these are the changes so far

    flat bat - easton EA50, probably upgrade to carbon at somepoint
    Avid Speed Dial levers off an old bike and some old pedros lock on grips
    2.4 racing ralph upfront (really like it)
    2.2 Saguaro in rear
    Surly 22 rear cog sram 8 speed chain (figured start easy since knee)
    old cheapo Crank Bros smarty pedals

    Future mods to come
    - new candies (doubt those smarties last long at all lets see if I can kill a third pair of CBs this year!)
    - Carbon bar - specialized or niner
    - Wheels - Probably the hope / flows off my FS when/If I upgrade those to Carbon, if not just std Arch EXs
    - maybe niner carbon seatpost
    - Rear tire
    - I have surly 20T cog will use eventually as well

    First Impressions are really good, geo is good, considered small went medium, small would have been too small. Geo seems very well balanced on my short test run. Plesantly suprised by the seatpost, saddle, and stem. I might eventually replace some of that but so far so good, I even have 2 used Fizik saddles in parts boxes and they will remain for now.

    Not a Wieght Weenie but came in at 25.6 pounds on my cheapo luggage scale and that is with the pedals, the Saguaro that is filled with dryed up stans. Doesnt feel heavy at all riding it.

    Once I get a couple singletrack rides and one longer endurace ride I will post up again in the meanwhile will be rehabing knee and changing parts on my cross bike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-img_20120906_180244.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-img_20120906_180308.jpg  

    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  48. #448
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    I have had issues with the truvativ crank developing play. After about 10 miles of riding it starts knocking. I played around with the torque of the BB and the crank bolt as well as adding blue loctite to the bolt with no success. Its not in the bolt that attaches the two cranks sides together, its in the external BB. LBS added a washer to the non-drive side to take up about .5 mm space to see if that works. Anyone else having this issue or have any recommendations? I havent ridden it since the washer was added...

  49. #449
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    No BB problems here although I've seen lots of comments about those BBs having problems on different bikes.

  50. #450
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    No problems with the bottom bracket.....just the paint, when the orange paint chips, it goes big....real thick with yellow primer under it! Oh well, it's a mountain bike....

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    No problems with the bottom bracket.....just the paint, when the orange paint chips, it goes big....real thick with yellow primer under it! Oh well, it's a mountain bike....
    Battle scars ...

  52. #452
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    What's the easiest way to install a straight tubed suspension fork? Is there a part in can use to adapt it to the existing headset, so I don't have to remove the headset cups? I have another headset, but I wanted to find an easy way to try a 120mm fork and perhaps switch back and fourth.

  53. #453
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    This bike handles great with a shorter stem.
    It rides stiff to put down the power without being harsh even over washboard rooty areas.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-alafia-053.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-alafia-066.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-alafia-068.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-alafia-075.jpg  

    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-alafia-049.jpg  


  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    My sliders slipped forward last night. Exact same thing you are describing. Wasnt even 20 ft on to the trail and it slipped. So have you fixed this problem, or have any advice?
    Sorry for the slow response, I ended up sanding all the paint off the frame where the sliders and bolts came in contact and haven't had any problems since related to that.

    I came by to say I love the bike, but I did have an issue with the fork, at the base of the steer tube the bearing race was loose in a side to side, forward and back motion, which caused the fork to come loose in the headset, it was there from the beginning but went away after resetting it after the first ride at the beginning of august until about a week ago and since it hasn't held. I called back country and the guys in the bike department were super helpful and but ended up warrantying the bike since the fork isn't really a stand alone unit.

    I saw some one asking about the material of the tube, its carbon all the way.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by phrump View Post
    Sorry for the slow response, I ended up sanding all the paint off the frame where the sliders and bolts came in contact and haven't had any problems since related to that.

    I came by to say I love the bike, but I did have an issue with the fork, at the base of the steer tube the bearing race was loose in a side to side, forward and back motion, which caused the fork to come loose in the headset, it was there from the beginning but went away after resetting it after the first ride at the beginning of august until about a week ago and since it hasn't held. I called back country and the guys in the bike department were super helpful and but ended up warrantying the bike since the fork isn't really a stand alone unit.

    I saw some one asking about the material of the tube, its carbon all the way.
    Are you getting a new bike? I'm not sure how I feel about a carbon tube ... glad I only weigh 160.

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    Are you getting a new bike? I'm not sure how I feel about a carbon tube ... glad I only weigh 160.
    Yes.

  57. #457
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    Does anyone know if a cog from a shimano 9 or 10 speed cassette will work to swap out w the 18t that comes on the bike?

  58. #458
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    Its got a standard freehub that will fit a 9/10 speed cassette

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by alefak View Post
    Does anyone know if a cog from a shimano 9 or 10 speed cassette will work to swap out w the 18t that comes on the bike?
    Are you talking about breaking up a cassette? If so, I wouldn't recommend as the cogs are made for shifting. Surly cogs are cheap and plentiful and a good alternative.

  60. #460
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    Yes I was talking about breaking up a cassette. Kind of an emergency because I dont have time to order the proper single speed cogs. Will the shifting cogs be able to do the job temporarily until I am able to order single speed cogs.

  61. #461
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    Breaking a cassette up will work fine as long as your chainline is straight. Just don't use it for too long or the cog can wear a groove into the freehub body.

  62. #462
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    Last edited by LittleBuddy; 10-03-2012 at 03:47 PM.

  63. #463
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    Has anyone had any problems with their front wheel not staying aligned? Maybe there's a better way to describe this... A couple of times I've looked down and my front wheel isn't centered in the fork. I turn the bike upside down, open the quick release, and there's a little bit of room for the wheel to center back where it should be. I tighten the quick release the best I know how, and it will eventually happen again.

    This is my first carbon fork - does the material have anything to do with it? Never had an issue on my old 26" rock shox forks. Tips? Techniques? Suggestions???

    Thanks.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by ply5013 View Post
    Has anyone had any problems with their front wheel not staying aligned? Maybe there's a better way to describe this... A couple of times I've looked down and my front wheel isn't centered in the fork. I turn the bike upside down, open the quick release, and there's a little bit of room for the wheel to center back where it should be. I tighten the quick release the best I know how, and it will eventually happen again.

    This is my first carbon fork - does the material have anything to do with it? Never had an issue on my old 26" rock shox forks. Tips? Techniques? Suggestions???

    Thanks.
    I had that exact problem with the bike I tested, but since it was a review bike, I didn't bother with finding a solution. I think it's probably just a little paint on one of the dropout faces or something.

  65. #465
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    Not exact problem you have but the front quick release on mine was junk to put it politely one trail day and i replaced it, pick up some cheap shimano skewers or something.
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  66. #466
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    i've had the same problem, but replacing the stock skewer with a decent sun ringle skewer seems to have done the trick.

  67. #467
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    Thanks. Maybe I will try my old skewer and see if that helps.

  68. #468
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    Did you guys find you needed an extra long skewer for the front because if the fat dropouts?

  69. #469
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    Really digging this bike, and will likely pick one up at or around Christmas. Do the large frames really only come with one bottle mount? If so, why the hell would they not put another set of mounts on there? This isn't really a deal breaker, but definitely something that would annoy me.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!!

  70. #470
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    Yes, there really are only one set of bottle mounts. It doesn't bother me at all since if I need more than one bottle I'll use the Camelback, but I could see it becoming an issue if I use it for touring or bikepacking. It would have been simple enough to put a second set on it and it struck me as odd when I first got it too.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalAl View Post
    Yes, there really are only one set of bottle mounts. .

    Well, that sucks. But, how hard could it be to add another set?
    1) Find the right placement
    2) Drill holes
    3) press in threaded anchors

    Am I missing something? Would this damage frame at all?

    I'm going to repost this in the frame builders forum and see what they say as well.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!!

  72. #472
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    After a little searching in the frame builders subforum....It should be really easy. There is rivet/nut called a riv-nut (clever) that would be perfect. Drill the holes in the right spot, insert riv-nut, screw in bolt to set the riv-nut, unscrew bolt and voila! No damage to paint or frame.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!!

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocktownrook View Post
    i've had the same problem, but replacing the stock skewer with a decent sun ringle skewer seems to have done the trick.
    I will have to check this out as I have had my front wheel come out of alignment a few times also. Thanks for the tip!

  74. #474
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    Looks like a nice bike. Wish they'd gone any other route for chain tension than slider.... (ugly). The downtube/steerer tube junction is a bit funky too but that can be overlooked.

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 Speed View Post
    Looks like a nice bike. Wish they'd gone any other route for chain tension than slider.... (ugly). The downtube/steerer tube junction is a bit funky too but that can be overlooked.
    What's your preferred tensioning method?

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    What's your preferred tensioning method?
    It used to be a "normal" EBB (yes, some squeak, others turn, etc.) but now that I've got the Problem Solvers BEER in my new Retrotec I love it! The EBB in my Ti IF which is Phil Wood and does occasionally make a bit of noise but I have never had troubles with it.

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 Speed View Post
    It used to be a "normal" EBB (yes, some squeak, others turn, etc.) but now that I've got the Problem Solvers BEER in my new Retrotec I love it! The EBB in my Ti IF which is Phil Wood and does occasionally make a bit of noise but I have never had troubles with it.
    I've always been scared to try an EBB setup. I do think they look better - track ends look pretty clean too.

  78. #478
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    I'm still diggin the Luddite. I'm 3/4 the way through with my local race season and I've been kinda neglecting the Luddite since the start. I've rode it maybe tree times since the first of October. I did have an awesome training ride with it this past weekend though. As soon as the season is over I'm riding the Luddite exclusively. All my offseason dirt work will be aboard the SS.
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  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    I've always been scared to try an EBB setup. I do think they look better - track ends look pretty clean too.
    Scared? What of? If not that the new swinger style rear ends are nice. With sliders I see issues with brakes, they look weird because they often have an ugly flat billet as the slider and more.

    Possom... half way through the season? You have to be in the desert. For us... the CX season is almost done. MTB racing stopped in middle September to avoid the snow. We won't really start again without flying to a desert island until June because there will be multiple feet of snow up in the mountains.

    Glad you're enjoying the bike.

  80. #480
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    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1352470607.497308.jpg
    Natural habitat shot.....Still really digging this bike even with the heavy wire bead Nevegels. Trying to wear them out as fast as possible to justify an upgrade with my wife and accountant!!
    MTB Rob was taken!

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 Speed View Post
    Scared? What of? If not that the new swinger style rear ends are nice. With sliders I see issues with brakes, they look weird because they often have an ugly flat billet as the slider and more.

    Possom... half way through the season? You have to be in the desert. For us... the CX season is almost done. MTB racing stopped in middle September to avoid the snow. We won't really start again without flying to a desert island until June because there will be multiple feet of snow up in the mountains.

    Glad you're enjoying the bike.
    These sliders have been great so far. I personally think some of the new swingers (Salsa) are even more clunky looking.

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 Speed View Post
    Scared? What of? If not that the new swinger style rear ends are nice. With sliders I see issues with brakes, they look weird because they often have an ugly flat billet as the slider and more.

    Possom... half way through the season? You have to be in the desert. For us... the CX season is almost done. MTB racing stopped in middle September to avoid the snow. We won't really start again without flying to a desert island until June because there will be multiple feet of snow up in the mountains.

    Glad you're enjoying the bike.
    I'm in sunny fla. We have two race series in the state. There's good xc racing from September to march. From march to September we have random monthly endurace races.

    I'd love to trade you our hot and humid summers for some mountains and occasional snow
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  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possum Jones View Post
    I'm in sunny fla. We have two race series in the state. There's good xc racing from September to march. From march to September we have random monthly endurace races.

    I'd love to trade you our hot and humid summers for some mountains and occasional snow
    I'm originally from K.C. so while not as humid as Florida I do know riding in over 100 degree weather with near equal humidity. That, is one of the main things I love about living here next to the Alps.... not much humidity and much lower temps. More my style.

    However... I do really miss having a nearly year 'round race season and courses that are more than 3-10 km per lap (pretty normal for endurance races here).

  84. #484
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    Here's mine with a Marzocchi 44 Micro Ti fork and DT Swiss wheels.

  85. #485
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    Tapatalk wouldn't post my photo ...

    Here's mine with a Marzocchi 44 Micro Ti fork and DT Swiss wheels. Mt Tam in the background - the birthplace of mountain biking (mostly).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-ludditetam.jpg  


  86. #486
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    Just put my Luddite up for sale on Ebay if anyone is interested.

    Item number- 281022758726

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    After doing some calculating I got my Luddite for $582.00. I used bill me later and got another 6% cash back which was $47. So with that and the promo code I felt I did good! GO BACKCOUNTRY!
    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    Just put my Luddite up for sale on Ebay if anyone is interested.

    Item number- 281022758726
    Selling for $625-$690? You are going to make more money on the bike than backcountry did!!
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!!

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasnavy05 View Post
    Selling for $625-$690? You are going to make more money on the bike than backcountry did!!
    Not after the horrendous eBay and Paypal fees!

  89. #489
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    Did you try to return it? Backcountry and competitive cyclist have an unlimited return policy. Huck n Roll was merged into CC so if you bought it from them I bet CC would still take it back.

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    Tapatalk wouldn't post my photo ...

    Here's mine with a Marzocchi 44 Micro Ti fork and DT Swiss wheels. Mt Tam in the background - the birthplace of mountain biking (mostly).

    Nice photo....What is the tooth count on your cog? I am considering a 19 or 20 to replace the stock 18 for the winter due to the extra clothes / weight I'm lugging around in the cold weather.

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zakman View Post
    Did you try to return it? Backcountry and competitive cyclist have an unlimited return policy. Huck n Roll was merged into CC so if you bought it from them I bet CC would still take it back.

    Is that really how their return policy works?

    What would keep someone from buying a new bike, riding it for a couple years, and then returning it for full price? (other than personal ethics/morals)
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!!

  92. #492
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    I have never tried it but this is copied directly from their web site:

    We call it our Unconditional Lifetime Returns policy, as in no questions asked, in perpetuity. Buy something and if it falls short of your expectations in any way, for any reason, just send it back, for as long as you own it. Bikes, clothes, components, and stuff on sale. We won't ask any questions, and there's no fine print. We want you to be eternally happy, simple as that. Just send your item(s) back and include the information below. As soon as we receive the item(s) we will post a credit to your original form of payment. Be aware that it typically takes your credit card company 5-7 to refund the amount to your card.

  93. #493
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    Yea, Im trying to make a little money, but after the ebay and paypal fees I wont make much. I not just going to give the bike away for like 300 hundred bucks either. I haven't ridden this bike but a few times. I don't think I could just send it back, thats not right IMO.

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    Yea, Im trying to make a little money, but after the ebay and paypal fees I wont make much. I not just going to give the bike away for like 300 hundred bucks either. I haven't ridden this bike but a few times. I don't think I could just send it back, thats not right IMO.
    Any special reason you're selling?

  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    Nice photo....What is the tooth count on your cog? I am considering a 19 or 20 to replace the stock 18 for the winter due to the extra clothes / weight I'm lugging around in the cold weather.
    I'm running a 21t, we have some long fire road climbs around here. When I pick up another cog, I'll try a 20t.

  96. #496
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    I am selling it to upgrade my fatbike. I have many bikes in my stable as well.

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    I am selling it to upgrade my fatbike. I have many bikes in my stable as well.
    Admit it, you're a bikeoholilic.

  98. #498
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    Oh, I know!

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    Yea, Im trying to make a little money, but after the ebay and paypal fees I wont make much. I not just going to give the bike away for like 300 hundred bucks either. I haven't ridden this bike but a few times. I don't think I could just send it back, thats not right IMO.
    I don't think I could send a bike back like that either.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!!

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    I'm running a 21t, we have some long fire road climbs around here. When I pick up another cog, I'll try a 20t.

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