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  1. #301
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    ^My inseam is 37" and this bike feels big, so I'm sure you will be fine. Measure from your bean bag tho, not your pants inseam.

  2. #302
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    I placed my order last Sunday night. Havent seen hide nor hair if it. I'm on the east coast so I guess mine will take longer.

  3. #303
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    Does anyone know if the 15 percent off mtbr.com offer can work on top of the current HucknRoll price for this bike?

  4. #304
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    It won't cuz its already 25% off

  5. #305
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    No it doesn't.

  6. #306
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    FYI, it will take about a week for your bike to ship right now. I ordered mine last Friday and it shipped today. I called mid week and he said their bike shop is between 2-4 days behind schedule right now. Must be lots of people buying them!

  7. #307
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    Looks like the 25% off sale is over for now...wait......went back on at 15% off

  8. #308
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    It was fun while it lasted. So, far the Luddite seems pretty solid and the geo appears to work for me. I like the way the bike climbs.

  9. #309
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    I agree SS, this is a great bike. I urge anyone thinking of getting this bike to go for it!

  10. #310
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    Rode my buddies today, wish another bike was in the budget.
    2010 Lajolla lightweight aluminum cruiser

  11. #311
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    Mine should be here on Tuesday or Wednesday.....now that a few of you have put some miles in on yours over the weekend....any problem areas noted? Seems like the wire bead Nevagels are the only weak point? How is the seat, bars, stem etc.....Can't wait to take mine out!

  12. #312
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    Well i took mine out Saturday for the first time. First time on a 29er/Single Speed/Rigid. I loved it. It was not nearly as tough as I thought the climbing would be, and my lord does this bike get its momentum going quickly. I def noticed not having a suspension fork(Vibration), but I will get over it. All in all, I am very happy with the bike. Great balance going over jumps as well. Very comfortable and predictable riding experience.

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    Well i took mine out Saturday for the first time. First time on a 29er/Single Speed/Rigid. I loved it. It was not nearly as tough as I thought the climbing would be, and my lord does this bike get its momentum going quickly. I def noticed not having a suspension fork(Vibration), but I will get over it. All in all, I am very happy with the bike. Great balance going over jumps as well. Very comfortable and predictable riding experience.
    Keep your tire pressure down and that'll help. I don't have a lot of miles on the bike yet, but the forks seems to cut some vibrations compared to my old bike which had a steel fork. The grips do seem hard however, but I'm used to Ourys which really help on rigids.

    Now that I got the bike for only 630, I'm really getting tempted to replace the wheels and lose another pound.

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by MMcG View Post
    Does anyone know if the 15 percent off mtbr.com offer can work on top of the current HucknRoll price for this bike?

    Looks like the sale is over.

  15. #315
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    How's the paint holding up on everyone's bikes? I have ridden the bike about 100 miles and I've got 5 or 6 nicks down to the bare metal already.

  16. #316
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    Yea I've been about a 100 or so miles on mine and I have some pretty good nicks on mine. Seems normal for me though. The terrian I ride is extremely rocky. So IMO its average paint chipping for me.

  17. #317
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    Must be their version of that famous Niner paint. Mine will be beat hard anyway ...

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    Mine should be here on Tuesday or Wednesday.....now that a few of you have put some miles in on yours over the weekend....any problem areas noted? Seems like the wire bead Nevagels are the only weak point? How is the seat, bars, stem etc.....Can't wait to take mine out!
    One I rode had arch ex wheels. Feels very comparable to a high end niner.
    2010 Lajolla lightweight aluminum cruiser

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowe925 View Post
    One I rode had arch ex wheels. Feels very comparable to a high end niner.
    Anybody weighed a Luddite with lighter wheels? 24 pounds seems easy to achieve?

  20. #320
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    i put some chinese carbon wheels on setup tubeless, scales batteries are dead though. will try to remember get some this week

  21. #321
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    24 seems unlikely w/o the big bucks. They're saying it's 26.6 w/o pedals. So you need to find close to 1400 grams. Putting a set of no tubes on will only get about 500 grams.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by alefak View Post
    24 seems unlikely w/o the big bucks. They're saying it's 26.6 w/o pedals. So you need to find close to 1400 grams. Putting a set of no tubes on will only get about 500 grams.
    You forgot the steel belted tires that weigh in at 980 grams each! I changed the tires and tubes and lost 750 grams without even going to light tires (680 grams each with 125 gram 26er tubes).

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by alefak View Post
    24 seems unlikely w/o the big bucks. They're saying it's 26.6 w/o pedals. So you need to find close to 1400 grams. Putting a set of no tubes on will only get about 500 grams.
    Rowe rode my Luddite.
    I swapped the stock wheels, tubes, and tires with a set of arch ex, a racing ralph 2.4, a roctet ron 2.25 and tubless. It dropped to 23.6. That's before carbon bars and a Thomson stem and post. I'm guessing it's under 23 pounds now. I'm sitting at $1500 invested and it's perfect.
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  24. #324
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    Btw, Rowe rode my ass into the ground yesterday. Trying to keep up with him on his badass geared carbon race bike has my legs sore to the touch. I've been limping around all day haha
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  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possum Jones View Post
    Rowe rode my Luddite.
    I swapped the stock wheels, tubes, and tires with a set of arch ex, a racing ralph 2.4, a roctet ron 2.25 and tubless. It dropped to 23.6. That's before carbon bars and a Thomson stem and post. I'm guessing it's under 23 pounds now. I'm sitting at $1500 invested and it's perfect.
    I think you owe us some photos of your bad ass Luddite.

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    I think you owe us some photos of your bad ass Luddite.
    I only have craptastic camera phone pics.



    The bottle opener headset spacer is my favorite component haha
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  27. #327
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    The best I can do



    I always thought bar ends were kinda goofy. They're now my secret weapon. They seem to make extended climbs out of the saddle easier.
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  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possum Jones View Post
    The best I can do



    I always thought bar ends were kinda goofy. They're now my secret weapon. They seem to make extended climbs out of the saddle easier.
    Looking good, did you change your chain too? The stock chain seems heavy.

  29. #329
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    This will be my first new bike. I'm assuming the pedals are 9/16"?

    Recommend any good, not to expensive, platforms?

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by phrump View Post
    Received My XLT luddite today, I'm 6'6" 270lbs. Immediately went to the local trail head and did a ride around the lake. It was a blast. The bike rode great, but when i got back the chain had gotten some slack in it so i adjusted it back taught, Went again after my friend got off work and when we got back the sliders had slipped forward again. Any tips on getting it to hold? I set the tension bolt after setting the sliders after the first ride. i was thinking about sanding the paint off, or should i just wait and see if it stops after a few rides?
    My sliders slipped forward last night. Exact same thing you are describing. Wasnt even 20 ft on to the trail and it slipped. So have you fixed this problem, or have any advice?

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    My sliders slipped forward last night. Exact same thing you are describing. Wasnt even 20 ft on to the trail and it slipped. So have you fixed this problem, or have any advice?
    How much you do weigh, if you don't mind me asking? How tight is your chain and is there a noticeable "tight spot"? I tightened the sliders first and then the forward facing bolts. I always run my chains a hair loose (never dropped). Granted I only weigh 165, but I noticed zero slipping after a 900 foot climb.

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by ply5013 View Post
    This will be my first new bike. I'm assuming the pedals are 9/16"?

    Recommend any good, not to expensive, platforms?
    I'm running the DMR v12s and they cost about $59.

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    How much you do weigh, if you don't mind me asking? How tight is your chain and is there a noticeable "tight spot"? I tightened the sliders first and then the forward facing bolts. I always run my chains a hair loose (never dropped). Granted I only weigh 165, but I noticed zero slipping after a 900 foot climb.
    I weigh 240lbs. I did not adjust them at all. I just put the wheel on and started riding.

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    I weigh 240lbs. I did not adjust them at all. I just put the wheel on and started riding.
    You might check everything before the next ride, but this seems more of an issue for bigger riders. Make sure the chain is not too tight.

  35. #335
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    Should I adjust sliders first, or the chain tensioner first?

  36. #336
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    the sliders are the chain tensioner
    the adjuster screws and their lock nuts should be set first, then tighten down the bolts that hold the sliders to the frame
    Last edited by clewttu; 07-24-2012 at 02:36 PM.

  37. #337
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    Nice looking bike! Did you go with the single speed rear wheel or keep the option open for gears?

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    the sliders are the chain tensioner
    the adjuster screws and their lock nuts should be set first, then tighten down the bolts that hold the sliders to the frame
    This makes sense. I did the opposite and it still worked. Granted I has track ends before and may not know what I'm doing!

  39. #339
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    if you did the opposite and it worked, your sliders were prob not torqued down properly

  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    if you did the opposite and it worked, your sliders were prob not torqued down properly
    Should the sliders have walked forward? I tightened them again for safe keeping after tightening the set bolts.

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    Anybody weighed a Luddite with lighter wheels? 24 pounds seems easy to achieve?
    just weighed it on my bathroom scale, weighs in at 24.2 lbs w/o pedals, total investment about $1300
    mods are chinese wide carbon wheels with 9/10mm thru bolts and bontrager rhythm strips, 2.35 Nobby Nics set up tubeless, shimano xt hydros, oury lock ons, and a 70mm ea50 stem

  42. #342
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    how you like the nobby nics on ourslippery VA rooty trails. I was thinking nobby nic rear 2.4 ralph out front, injured knee so plenty of time to plan mods out.
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by HEMIjer View Post
    how you like the nobby nics on ourslippery VA rooty trails. I was thinking nobby nic rear 2.4 ralph out front, injured knee so plenty of time to plan mods out.
    was that directed at me? im in TX so no idea...
    you would prob want the nic in the front and ralph in the rear though

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    just weighed it on my bathroom scale, weighs in at 24.2 lbs w/o pedals, total investment about $1300
    mods are chinese wide carbon wheels with 9/10mm thru bolts and bontrager rhythm strips, 2.35 Nobby Nics set up tubeless, shimano xt hydros, oury lock ons, and a 70mm ea50 stem
    How do you like the short stem? I have a 80mm Sunline I was thinking of using. Also, can you give a little more detail about your wheels and where you got them? I'm liking what everyone is doing to this bike.

  45. #345
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    i like it a lot, steering felt a bit sluggish with the 100mm (rode it once on pavement though, no offroad experience with the longer stem), its what im used to on my full susp which has a similar ett, so ymmv

    see the long ass thread here on them, they are sold here

  46. #346
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    Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1343192649.249868.jpg Mine arrived today, initial impressions are good. Went together quickly, took it out for a spin and the sliders slid. Came back and re adjusted, no additional slipping. Saddle and general component spec. overall is better than I expected. BB7s are great brakes, this is my first set of mechanical discs.

    If there is a weak point it is the paint, chips easily....already chipping off around the sliders, I assume this is normal though. Shouldn't be an issue for me as intended use for this bike is winter in the rain and mud beater. The Nevagels will work great in those conditions even though they are boat anchors!! Really like the frame geometry and even though the gearing is the same as my 26" single speed, this new 29er feels a lot faster.
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  47. #347
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    I noticed setting the sliders last night, that you almost have to over compensate when adjusting. My sliders do move just a little bit even after I adjust. It seems that the side opposite of the chain moves in closer to frame. So I just compensated for that when adjusting and it slid basically straight and hasnt moved since. I can see the lock nut on the slider becoming striped out easily tho in the near future if I have to keep adjusting.

    Maybe I'm just doing something wrong, but I rode with chain tensioners on my bmx bike for years, and I am very experienced with adjusting them.

  48. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    I noticed setting the sliders last night, that you almost have to over compensate when adjusting. My sliders do move just a little bit even after I adjust. It seems that the side opposite of the chain moves in closer to frame. So I just compensated for that when adjusting and it slid basically straight and hasnt moved since. I can see the lock nut on the slider becoming striped out easily tho in the near future if I have to keep adjusting.

    Maybe I'm just doing something wrong, but I rode with chain tensioners on my bmx bike for years, and I am very experienced with adjusting them.
    I wondering if sliders like this have a weight limit? Perhaps they could be replaced with more stout versions too?

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1343192649.249868.jpg 
Views:	1114 
Size:	203.2 KB 
ID:	712512 Mine arrived today, initial impressions are good. Went together quickly, took it out for a spin and the sliders slid. Came back and re adjusted, no additional slipping. Saddle and general component spec. overall is better than I expected. BB7s are great brakes, this is my first set of mechanical discs.

    If there is a weak point it is the paint, chips easily....already chipping off around the sliders, I assume this is normal though. Shouldn't be an issue for me as intended use for this bike is winter in the rain and mud beater. The Nevagels will work great in those conditions even though they are boat anchors!! Really like the frame geometry and even though the gearing is the same as my 26" single speed, this new 29er feels a lot faster.
    Found the "cure" for the sliding sliders.....I took a file and carefully filed the paint down to bare metal on the track that the two Allen head bolts torque down on. The paint is thick and it bubbles when you tighten the bolts down which causes movement. I will put a thin clear coat of paint back on over the bare metal exposed prior to the rain season to prevent any surface rust. I weigh 215 lbs and this is the only thing that has prevented movement!!

  50. #350
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    Im all kinds of screwed up now. Tire is rubbing up on the top part of frame now.

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    Im all kinds of screwed up now. Tire is rubbing up on the top part of frame now.
    Danner, Loosen the two Allen headed slider bolts on each side. Slid the wheel around until it is centered and the chain has the correct tension and then tighten the horizontal adjustment bolts until they are snug. Those adjustment bolts have to touch or the wheel will move.Then torque the 4 Allen headed attachment bolts as tight as possible. I use a long Allen wrench for lots of torque. I also filed the paint off were the four bolts torque down for a more solid surface.

    This should end your problem. I did twenty miles last night with no movement. Good luck!

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    Im all kinds of screwed up now. Tire is rubbing up on the top part of frame now.
    I'm assuming you are saying that the rear tire is rubbing on the back of your seat tube? Given your experience with tensioners from your BMX days and your continued problems with this bike, you might want to take it to your local shop and see if they can find the problem. Perhaps the rear triangle is bent or some bolt or washer is strippd?. And if you still can't find the problem, look at the Ti and stainless steel bolt kit options from Paragon Machine Works. Good luck.

  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    Danner, Loosen the two Allen headed slider bolts on each side. Slid the wheel around until it is centered and the chain has the correct tension and then tighten the horizontal adjustment bolts until they are snug. Those adjustment bolts have to touch or the wheel will move.Then torque the 4 Allen headed attachment bolts as tight as possible. I use a long Allen wrench for lots of torque. I also filed the paint off were the four bolts torque down for a more solid surface.

    This should end your problem. I did twenty miles last night with no movement. Good luck!
    Yes, try that first.

  54. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Tiki View Post
    I'm assuming you are saying that the rear tire is rubbing on the back of your seat tube? Given your experience with tensioners from your BMX days and your continued problems with this bike, you might want to take it to your local shop and see if they can find the problem. Perhaps the rear triangle is bent or some bolt or washer is strippd?. And if you still can't find the problem, look at the Ti and stainless steel bolt kit options from Paragon Machine Works. Good luck.
    Mine was doing the same thing almost to the point of rubbing on the down tube of the rear triangle as Danner described. I think some lock washers under the bolt heads may be the next thing that I try if it slips out of place again.

  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Tiki View Post
    I'm assuming you are saying that the rear tire is rubbing on the back of your seat tube? Given your experience with tensioners from your BMX days and your continued problems with this bike, you might want to take it to your local shop and see if they can find the problem. Perhaps the rear triangle is bent or some bolt or washer is strippd?. And if you still can't find the problem, look at the Ti and stainless steel bolt kit options from Paragon Machine Works. Good luck.
    Maybe we need a photo. Did you gear down a lot and is the wheel slammed forward now? I geared down to a 21t cog and needed a new chain (stock chain is heavy anyway).

  56. #356
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    A-C on fork

    Does anyone have the axle to crown measurement on the stock luddite fork? Thanks.

  57. #357
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    depending on why you are asking, the young turk is the same bike with a Rock Shox Reba RL if that A2C helps you

  58. #358
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    yeah

    looks like geo is listed the same between the bikes and the young turk is stocked with a 100mm travel fork......so wondering if the rigid fork on the luddite is really up in the ballpark of 490ish?

  59. #359
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    looks like all the websites have it priced just over $1k now

  60. #360
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    I have in around 100 miles on mine now, mainly tight and rocky single track with some pavement in between....I have to say that this bike has met my expectations and then some.

    After an initial problem with the sliders moving around solved, I then moved on to correctly setting up the BB7 brakes. There is a lot of BS on You Tube about setting these up.....most of what I have seen is over complicated and doesn't work!

    I have found correct setup to be as simple as loosening the calipers, turning the inboard and outboard adjusters until the pads are touching the rotor and centered and then tightening the caliper back up, set the gaps and your done! This has worked perfectly for me. I really like these brakes.

    Geometry seems to feel more lively like a 26er on tight single track then my other 29er, a Stumpy EVO ht which is odd since the Luditte weighs about 2 Lbs. more.....(Mainly in the tires)...I will have to do a geometry comparison and figure out what is different.

    Overall a fun and solid bike so far.
    Last edited by borbntm; 07-30-2012 at 12:12 PM.

  61. #361
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    Yes, my tire was rubbing on the down triangle. Right side. I played around with it, and got her straight.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    Yes, my tire was rubbing on the down triangle. Right side. I played around with it, and got her straight.
    Glad you got it corrected.... I am right at 215 lbs. and had to put down some major torque on the Allen head slider attachment bolts to keep them in place. I greased the threads first also which seems to help. I think when the time comes to tighten up the chain, I will put some star nuts or lock washers under them also.

  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    I have in around 100 miles on mine now, mainly tight and rocky single track with some pavement in between....I have to say that this bike has met my expectations and then some.

    After an initial problem with the sliders moving around solved, I then moved on to correctly setting up the BB7 brakes. There is a lot of BS on You Tube about setting these up.....most of what I have seen is over complicated and doesn't work!

    I have found correct setup to be as simple as loosening the calipers, turning the inboard and outboard adjusters until the pads are centered and then tightening the caliper back up, set the gaps and your done! This has worked perfectly for me. I really like these brakes.

    Geometry seems to feel more like a 26er on tight single track then my other 29er, a Stumpy EVO ht which is odd since the Lucite weighs about 2 Lbs. more.....Mainly in the tires!

    Overall a fun and solid bike so far.
    I feel like the rotors they used on this bike actually work better and are less noisy than the G2s I have on another bike.

  64. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    I feel like the rotors they used on this bike actually work better and are less noisy than the G2s I have on another bike.
    I compared the 2011 rotors to the 2012 version on the Jenson website (they are selling both) the 2012 version has changed for the better....more holes and looks like lighter weight.

    I do not like the Avid elixir hydro brakes on my Stumpy.....They are really bad compared to these mechanicals!.... I would have never guessed.
    Last edited by borbntm; 07-30-2012 at 09:33 PM.

  65. #365
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    After two weeks the Luddite came in!!!!!

    So did a Young Turk, that I didn't order!!!!!

    BC et al. has really good customer service, so ya think they felt bad and sent two bikes because of the shipping delay????

    EDIT: As it turns out, they screwed up. They offered a really really really really good deal for the bike so the YT is staying!
    Last edited by NslrPrtn; 07-31-2012 at 06:43 AM.

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by NslrPrtn View Post
    After two weeks the Luddite came in!!!!!

    So did a Young Turk, that I didn't order!!!!!

    BC et al. has really good customer service, so ya think they felt bad and sent two bikes because of the shipping delay????
    They must have sent you my Young Turk. Send it my way. I will cover the shipping.

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by NslrPrtn View Post
    After two weeks the Luddite came in!!!!!

    So did a Young Turk, that I didn't order!!!!!

    BC et al. has really good customer service, so ya think they felt bad and sent two bikes because of the shipping delay????
    Hot commodity, now that the prices have gone back up.

  68. #368
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    My first new bike. My first 29er. Can't wait to ride it. Pedals deliver today...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone seen a Civilian Luddite 29er?-civilian.jpg  


  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zakman View Post
    They must have sent you my Young Turk. Send it my way. I will cover the shipping.
    No problem...I use Price Point's shipper so that'll be $900, sir.

  70. #370
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    I am absolutely LOVING this bike. Just did the Stan's conversion yesterday with a 2.4 Racing Ralph up front, and a 2.25 RR in the rear, otherwise it's stock at the moment. The tires should be first priority, HUGE difference. Tubeless was a major change in feel as well. Adds quite a bit of smoothness to the ride, particularly for a rigid setup.

    Actually have to say I'm pretty impressed with the stock saddle. As a longtime Selle Italia Flite enthusiast, I've felt no need to ditch the saddle right away.

    Anyway, enjoy everyone!

    One thing of note I discovered: I like to swap quick-releases to bolt-on skewers as a general rule. The standard 100mm QR is not long enough to compensate for the thick dropouts on this fork. I had to order a longer version, just an FYI.

  71. #371
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    Quick questions: The stock stem... It appears to be 100mm, possibly 10-15 degree rise? Anyone know for sure?

    This is also my first tapered steer tube of these dimensions... Will a standard 1 1/8" stem work on this steer tube?

  72. #372
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    its 100mm stem on all size frames, no idea what rise
    there are reducers you can purchase to use a standard fork with a tapered head tube

  73. #373
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    Thanks for the reply... Just looking to replace the stem for now. Do you know if it's standard inch and an eighth?

  74. #374
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    its a standard tapered steerer, which means 1-1/8" up top and 1-1/2" below at the crown

  75. #375
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    Excellent, thanks!

  76. #376
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    FWIW...I bought two Luddites through Comp.Cycle late last week and mentioned I had seen the entire line of Civ bikes marked 25% on the Facebook page. They honored the price which brought them down to $787. However I called today to see if they would pricematch what some of you were able to get them at and they wouldn't budge. Ah well, it's still a very good price and my bikes ought to be here later this week.
    Both bikes will be somewhat different than what others have mentioned. My GF is getting the Nuvinci hub and mine is slated to have a 36h Rohloff.

  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by docsurf View Post
    FWIW...I bought two Luddites through Comp.Cycle late last week and mentioned I had seen the entire line of Civ bikes marked 25% on the Facebook page. They honored the price which brought them down to $787. However I called today to see if they would pricematch what some of you were able to get them at and they wouldn't budge. Ah well, it's still a very good price and my bikes ought to be here later this week.
    Both bikes will be somewhat different than what others have mentioned. My GF is getting the Nuvinci hub and mine is slated to have a 36h Rohloff.
    Try to post some images once you get the bikes setup with the new hubs.

  78. #378
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    Or you can loosen the calipers, grab the brake lever and squeeze it to center the rotor. While holding the brake lever, tighten the caliper back up.

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Tiki View Post
    One solution: <http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=MS0023> If the link doesn't work, check out ParagonMachineWorks - they have a complete line of aftermarket bolts and parts for sliding dropouts, among other things..
    I think it could really benefit to have the double washer added to this bike to spread the load and help keep the sliders from sliding. The thumb nuts would be very nice also. How can you tell if the thumb nuts that paragon sells will work on the set screws that come on the bike? And also that the double washer will fit the bolt spacing?

    i rode mine for the first time last night and the drive side slid forward on a climb and the chain tried to jump off the cog.

  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by alefak View Post
    I think it could really benefit to have the double washer added to this bike to spread the load and help keep the sliders from sliding. The thumb nuts would be very nice also. How can you tell if the thumb nuts that paragon sells will work on the set screws that come on the bike? And also that the double washer will fit the bolt spacing?

    i rode mine for the first time last night and the drive side slid forward on a climb and the chain tried to jump off the cog.
    I decided to go a different direction and did not purchase the Civilian. But I'd take a few photos and email them to Paragon and see what kit or parts would fit. You will probably need to email or call Civilian customer service (or competitive cyclist's customer service, regardless of where you purchased the bike) and ask for the technical information on the nuts, bolts, and screws used. I'm sure CC has this information or can get it to you quickly. And on that note, I suspect the CC guys would be happy to work with you and your stock bike to troubleshoot the slippage issue, as I am confident the bike will work fine with the stock parts, though you may need to file the paint off your frame under the washers/bolts. Good luck.

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    Glad you got it corrected.... I am right at 215 lbs. and had to put down some major torque on the Allen head slider attachment bolts to keep them in place. I greased the threads first also which seems to help. I think when the time comes to tighten up the chain, I will put some star nuts or lock washers under them also.
    Im about the point now where I am about to tac weld these allen bolts lol. I havent tried lock washers yet, but it will be my next step. Last option will be to file paint off my brand new $800 bike.

  82. #382
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    are you sure you guys are adjusting these correctly? havent had issues with mine, im about 200lbs geared up

  83. #383
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    bump.....

    .....can someone measure the A-C on the luddite fork? Thanks

  84. #384
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    Here's a close up photo of what I did to solve the "slippage" issue with the rear sliders. Filed the paint off and torqued the bolts down as hard as possible with a long Allen wrench.

    Danner....., As for taking a file to the paint on a new $800 bike....It lifted and came loose when I torqued them down hard anyway, I just finished the job with a file. I plan on cleaning the area up, blending the edges nice and applying a thin clear coat of automotive touch up paint prior to riding in the rain.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    Here's a close up photo of what I did to solve the "slippage" issue with the rear sliders. Filed the paint off and torqued the bolts down as hard as possible with a long Allen wrench.

    Danner....., As for taking a file to the paint on a new $800 bike....It lifted and came loose when I torqued them down hard anyway, I just finished the job with a file. I plan on cleaning the area up, blending the edges nice and applying a thin clear coat of automotive touch up paint prior to riding in the rain.
    Would've been nice if these were stainless of course. I just saw a Surly KM on sale at a LBS for $952 and it came with the same rims and many other similar parts, except the carbon fork. For $630 the Luddite is a screaming deal by comparison.

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    Would've been nice if these were stainless of course. I just saw a Surly KM on sale at a LBS for $952 and it came with the same rims and many other similar parts, except the carbon fork. For $630 the Luddite is a screaming deal by comparison.
    Good point, I will wait and see if it gets any surface rust....maybe it is rust free steel?

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    Good point, I will wait and see if it gets any surface rust....maybe it is rust free steel?
    It'll rust or they wouldn't have painted it.

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by borbntm View Post
    Good point, I will wait and see if it gets any surface rust....maybe it is rust free steel?
    Any rust you get on the dropouts will be superficial and easily remediated with some steel wool or a file. But if you are concerned about rust, you might want to treat the interior of the frame with framesaver or boiled linseed oil. I would be much more worried about rust I can't see than anything that might show on the dropouts. Great looking bike BTW.

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    are you sure you guys are adjusting these correctly? havent had issues with mine, im about 200lbs geared up
    What he said.

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    are you sure you guys are adjusting these correctly? havent had issues with mine, im about 200lbs geared up
    I'm 190ish and mine has loosened once. It was after a ride with lots of rooty and rocky 2'-3' foot drops though. The bike has been flawless with exception of that.
    Ride Bikes
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  91. #391
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    So apparently Civilian is no longer owned by Backcountry. Wonder how that'll affect price and availability of these...

    UNDER OLD MANAGEMENT… - Civilian - Civilian
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  92. #392
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    hmm, interesting

  93. #393
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    Maybe this was the cause of the sudden price increase?

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    It'll rust or they wouldn't have painted it.
    I am not a metalologist but I do know that some grades of steel are more rust prone than others. Hard to say what grade of metal was used, painted or not. It will be interesting to see what happens in terms of surface rust.

    Intended use for this bike will be as a rainy season bike and all around daily beater. I was planning on spraying WD 40 in all of the weep holes prior to the rainy season. I picked up the Luditte to replace the Trance X2 for this purpose. I am more concerned about rust that can't be seen than surface rust. I actually considered this when I purchased it.....but at the great price that I got, I will take the chance.

    This past spring I had to practically rebuild my Trance X2 after one winter of running hard and putting away wet......literally!!! New shock bushings, rebuilt fork, cables, new derailer, cassette and chain.....after one wet and muddy winter of riding. Interesting thing is, I have ridden it one time since I got the Luditte and I was not into it at all.....This single speed thing is addicting!! And Im glad that I didn't pick up the Surly I had my eye on at my LBS.

  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Tiki View Post
    Any rust you get on the dropouts will be superficial and easily remediated with some steel wool or a file. But if you are concerned about rust, you might want to treat the interior of the frame with framesaver or boiled linseed oil. I would be much more worried about rust I can't see than anything that might show on the dropouts. Great looking bike BTW.
    Thanks BT....I couldn't resist the ODI grips with anodized orange rings for a little "bling"

    This is my only ride without SPDs also, at least for now....took some getting used to again but it is great to slip on the Vans and take off.
    Last edited by borbntm; 08-02-2012 at 08:41 PM.

  96. #396
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    I dont care about rust, like someone else said its easily remedied by steel wool. I am however a little discouraged by the fact that a new bike out of the box needs custom fabrication/modification. Sliders and brakes need special adjustments? I do like this bike, I just think its a little ridiculous. And to save anyone who chimes in from wasting their breath, I know its all part of riding and I just need to get used to it.

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    are you sure you guys are adjusting these correctly? havent had issues with mine, im about 200lbs geared up
    Mine definately slipped a lot intially out of the box. Heres what works best w/o filing paint off. Loosen the hex nuts a little bit so the sliders will slide but not too much or the frame will spread. loosen the lock nuts on the chain tensioner bolts. Tighten the chain tensioner bolts on each side to set the chain tension to be fairly tight and to center the wheel in the frame. Note: If you dont get the slack out of the chain, every time you bumb the cranks you are jerking the drive side forward with more force. Once you get the chain tight and the wheel centered, tighten the lock nuts really tight against the drop out to hold the tensioner bolts in place and to keep them from backing out. You have to use two 8mm wrenches, one to hold the tensioner and the other to tighten the lock nut against the drop out. Then tighten the hex bolts with a metric wrench, not a hex key.

  98. #398
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    umm, its normal to have to adjust brakes when you mail order a bike, and mods arent necessary for the sliders if set up right

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danner182 View Post
    Im about the point now where I am about to tac weld these allen bolts lol. I havent tried lock washers yet, but it will be my next step. Last option will be to file paint off my brand new $800 bike.
    How does lock washers come after tack welding?
    Lock washers is step one. Many bikes come with them.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
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  100. #400
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    it has lock nuts, i just dont think people are using them correctly

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