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  1. #1
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    another 29er vs 29er

    Well ive been absent off this site for a bit but now im back and kickin,now to get right into it hello all today it specialized vs rocky mountain. First up we have the specialized hardrock sport disc 29', ill be running the spec list at the end of this. Next up the rocky mountain flare 29', both of these bikes are 19 inch frames i am 6'2,now i bet your waiting for the spec list

    SPECIALIZED HARDROCK SPORT DISC 29
    FRAME
    Specialized A1 Premium Aluminum, 29er Geometry, fully butted alloy, ORE downtube, externally relieved headtube, forged dropouts, reinforced disc mount, replaceable alloy derailleur hanger

    SWAT


    REAR SHOCK


    FORK
    SR Suntour SF13-XCT-MLO 29", coil/MCU spring, 1-1/8" steel steerer, mechanical lockout w/ preload adj., 28mm stanchions, post-mount disc, 80mm travel

    HEADSET
    1-1/8" threadless, loose ball

    STEM
    Alloy, 4-bolt clamp, 10-degree rise, 25.4mm

    HANDLEBARS
    Specialized flat bar, alloy, 640mm/660mm wide, 8-degree backsweep, 4-degree upsweep, 25.4mm

    GRIPS
    Specialized Body Geometry XCT, Kraton w/ gel, 132mm

    FRONT BRAKE
    Tektro HD-M330, hydraulic disc, dual piston, Light Wave style rotor, 160mm rotor

    REAR BRAKE
    Tektro HD-M330, hydraulic disc, dual piston, Light Wave style rotor, 160mm rotor

    BRAKE LEVERS
    Tektro, hydraulic lever

    FRONT DERAILLEUR
    Shimano Altus, 8-speed, 34.9mm clamp, low-mount, top-swing, dual-pull

    REAR DERAILLEUR
    Shimano Acera, 9-speed, SGS Cage

    SHIFT LEVERS
    Shimano Altus, 8-speed Rapidfire Plus, SL type w/ optical display

    CASSETTE
    Sunrace, 8-speed, 11-34

    CHAIN
    KMC X8

    CRANKSET
    SR Suntour XCT, 8-speed, square taper spindle

    CHAINRINGS
    42/32/22, steel

    BOTTOM BRACKET
    Square taper, cartridge bearings, 68mm shell

    PEDALS
    Composite platform, w/ reflectors, 9/16"

    RIMS
    HR Disc 29", alloy double-wall, disc, pin joint, 25mm, 36h

    FRONT HUB
    Disc, alloy, double-sealed, loose ball, steel axle, QR, 36h

    REAR HUB
    Disc, alloy, double-sealed, loose ball, steel axle, steel cassette body, QR, 36h

    SPOKES
    Stainless, 14g (2.0mm)

    FRONT TIRE
    Specialized Fast Trak Sport, 29x2.0", wire bead, 40TPI

    REAR TIRE
    Specialized Fast Trak Sport, 29x2.0", wire bead, 40TPI

    INNER TUBES
    Standard Schrader valve

    SADDLE
    Specialized Body Geometry Hardrock, steel rails, 143mm

    SEATPOST
    Alloy, 2-bolt, micro-adjust, 12.5mm offset, 30.9mm, 350mm/400mm

    SEAT BINDER
    Forged alloy, 34.9mm, QR, nylon washer

    NOTES
    Chainstay protector, reflectors, clear coat, owner's manual

    and don't criticize me for plagiarism i honestly didnt feel like typing that all out and eithier for the rocky mountain

    ROCKY MOUNTAIN FLARE 29

    FRAME
    ROCKY MOUNTAIN 6061 SERIES CUSTOM HYDROFORMED ALLOY FRAME
    THREADED BB
    ZEROSTACK 1-1/8" HEADTUBE
    RACK AND FENDER MOUNTS


    SIZES
    S - M - L - XL


    FORK
    SUNTOUR XCT 29


    FRONT TRAVEL
    100MM. PRELOAD


    HEADSET
    CANE CREEK FIVE SERIES: ZS44MM


    STEM
    ROCKY MOUNTAIN XC7 7 X 60-90MM


    HANDLEBAR
    ROCKY MOUNTAIN ZERO6 FLAT 31.8MM X 670MM X 6 SWEEP


    GRIPS
    ROCKY MOUNTAIN XC KRATON


    BRAKES
    PROMAX DSK 310 MECHANICAL DISC 160MM


    BRAKE LEVERS
    ROCKY MOUNTAIN 2 FINGER


    SHIFTERS
    SHIMANO ALTUS EZ-FIRE 9SPD


    FRONT DERAILLEUR
    SHIMANO ACERA 31.8MM 9SPD


    REAR DERAILLEUR
    SHIMANO ALIVIO 9SPD


    CRANKS & CHAINRINGS
    SUNTOUR XCM V1 170-175MM 44/32/22T 9SPD


    BOTTOM BRACKET
    SUNTOUR SEALED CARTRIDGE


    CASSETTE
    SHIMANO HG20 11-34 9SPD


    CHAIN
    KMC X9 9SPD


    PEDALS
    ROCKY MOUNTAIN STEEL CAGE COMPOSITE


    FRONT HUB
    SHIMANO RM35 DISC


    REAR HUB
    SHIMANO RM35 DISC


    SPOKES
    STAINLESS


    RIMS
    WHEELTECH SX17 BY WTB


    TIRES
    GEAX AKA 29" X 2.2"


    SEATPOST
    ROCKY MOUNTAIN XC 27.2MM X 400MM


    SADDLE
    ROCKY MOUNTAIN XC

    thank you in advance- jordan







  2. #2
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    The parts don't mean much to me. I ride the bike so it's really frame and geometry that become important first.

    As a good example I felt like riding 29r bikes was like riding a dead a$$ a few rungs up a ladder until designs evolved and many are still that way. Delayed gratification and trying stuff lead to one I love.

    The parts are also not so important because they wear out and all the main brands work well.

    Look at head and seat tube angles, stand over height, top tube length, chain stay length, and bottom bracket height to get an idea. Consider keeping a spreadsheet and trying a few bikes. That table of info will let you know what might be important. Examples such as maybe you really like or don't like a more slack bike. Maybe one combo of top tube length and stem/bar dimensions really feels better.

    Also delay the gratification so you can rent bikes or go to demo events. That also lets you try the different wheel sizes on same terrain (I like them all)


  3. #3
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    Both are good bike path and dirt road bikes because of the fork.
    This Marin Bobcat Trail 29 is trail ready with a good air fork and decent Alivio/Deore drive. And it is also less money.
    2013 Marin Bobcat Trail 29er 19" MTB Hardtail Bike Shimano 9S Hydraulic Disc New | eBay

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    Both are good bike path and dirt road bikes because of the fork.
    This Marin Bobcat Trail 29 is trail ready with a good air fork and decent Alivio/Deore drive. And it is also less money.
    2013 Marin Bobcat Trail 29er 19" MTB Hardtail Bike Shimano 9S Hydraulic Disc New | eBay
    On my last thread you also mentioned that and I do agree that fork is better but I won't be ordering a bike and I'm in ottawa ,Ontario so ya.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitflogger View Post
    The parts don't mean much to me. I ride the bike so it's really frame and geometry that become important first.

    As a good example I felt like riding 29r bikes was like riding a dead a$$ a few rungs up a ladder until designs evolved and many are still that way. Delayed gratification and trying stuff lead to one I love.

    The parts are also not so important because they wear out and all the main brands work well.

    Look at head and seat tube angles, stand over height, top tube length, chain stay length, and bottom bracket height to get an idea. Consider keeping a spreadsheet and trying a few bikes. That table of info will let you know what might be important. Examples such as maybe you really like or don't like a more slack bike. Maybe one combo of top tube length and stem/bar dimensions really feels better.

    Also delay the gratification so you can rent bikes or go to demo events. That also lets you try the different wheel sizes on same terrain (I like them all)

    Makes alot of sense to me. I've been very frustrated with this 26" frame I've had since 2008. I've tried different stems, seats adjustments, and playing around with the spacers, and I'm still not comfortable with it. I'm in the process of looking around for another frame to replace the current one.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_kid15 View Post
    On my last thread you also mentioned that and I do agree that fork is better but I won't be ordering a bike and I'm in ottawa ,Ontario so ya.
    The upgrade program(good for all of N Amer.) from Nick at Suntour will get you that fork for $200 or so shipped. You can add it as an upgrade to either bike. Or the shipping to you on the Marin is $154. Of course you would have to figure taxes.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    The upgrade program(good for all of N Amer.) from Nick at Suntour will get you that fork for $200 or so shipped. You can add it as an upgrade to either bike. Or the shipping to you on the Marin is $154. Of course you would have to figure taxes.
    That's a lot more money then I'll be able to spend thank you for the suggestion but a crappy fork will do me a solid the bike I'm using now has such a low priced fork that is barely in working condition and I manage city riding

  8. #8
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    The forks on the bikes you listed are no better, but ok for city riding. It's when you ride fun/difficult trails that a good fork makes a big difference. It goes from a minor component to the most important one.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    The forks on the bikes you listed are no better, but ok for city riding. It's when you ride fun/difficult trails that a good fork makes a big difference. It goes from a minor component to the most important one.
    that's definitely what I'm worried about I'll be able to upgrade sooner or later the money I have now for a bike will only be it but then I'll get some more money and upgrade to a 29er fork from rockshock or a fork that you recommend but I do like that Marin maybe I might be able to order through a Marin retailer I'll look into it

  10. #10
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    The 2014 has a downgraded fork.
    Like the Raidon but heavier. If they have a leftover 13 you should get a discount and a better bike.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    The 2014 has a downgraded fork.
    Like the Raidon but heavier. If they have a leftover 13 you should get a discount and a better bike.
    Man you couldnt be more right I was riding one of out trail systems today on a kona hoss with a marzzochi entry lvl fork and it was a nightmare and it caused me quite a big injuiry and I was on the brakes all the time I'm thinking that Marin and I doubted you and I'm sorry for that, also I'm starting to again like 26ers so if you have anyone's there in 19" I'd be happy to know

  12. #12
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    A bad setup with a poor fork will be dangerous in any wheel size. 29 wheels with a good fork will roll over rocks and roots easier. They aren't making 26 hts much anymore and fewer still can be found with a good fork. 27.5 is more likely, but no cost savings. I would recommend a 29, especially to a rider needing a 19".

  13. #13
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    Most definitely but I could always get the trek frame because I like that frame and then order a better fork off pinkbike

  14. #14
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    If the Trek is a 29er I would recommend a Manitou Tower Pro fork. 48mm offset is close to G2 51mm.

  15. #15
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    The trek is a 29er I'm not entirely sure how itll go with treks g2 geometry you just answered my question

  16. #16
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    Give me an opinion open up the link and tell me yay or nay I can get him to lower the price for s&h and swicrh out the bars definitely for a pair of 680's big shoulders needs big bars 2012 Airborne Goblin 29er For Sale

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_kid15 View Post
    Give me an opinion open up the link and tell me yay or nay I can get him to lower the price for s&h and swicrh out the bars definitely for a pair of 680's big shoulders needs big bars 2012 Airborne Goblin 29er For Sale
    No. He grossly downgraded the fork.
    He took off the best thing about that bike the dual air Reba fork. It is better than the current solo air forks. Much more tuneable.

  18. #18
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    The rockshock I am able to get a stiffer spring immediately and the price isint firm I'm able to go down to pay shipping and handling it'll be cheaper then a brand new bike

  19. #19
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    Look at the cassette you will be replacing that also look at the teeth see from top down 3rd and 4th how they are pointed ?
    Those look worn out.
    He could have a lot of miles on this bike or at least the parts he used to build it.

    That Bob Cat listed above sold for around $600 shipped watch for more deals like that at least it's new.
    ​​
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T.
    1997 Rock Hopper / Manitou TI Bulge Fork / Shimano STX-3 x 7 P.O.S.​

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PauLCa916 View Post
    Look at the cassette you will be replacing that also look at the teeth see from top down 3rd and 4th how they are pointed ?
    Those look worn out.
    He could have a lot of miles on this bike or at least the parts he used to build it.

    That Bob Cat listed above sold for around $600 shipped watch for more deals like that at least it's new.
    He brought that from the frame up meaning all the parts aren't stock of what comes with the goblin, I may just decide to buy new. And opt out a different fork

  21. #21
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    It looks to me that he bought this bike took off what he wanted to keep then had parts laying around and put this bike together to re-coop some of the money he spent on his new build. Just saying.
    Be patient a good deal will come along if you wait it out.
    This time of year dealers are willing to really deal since the new models are coming in and they get a better discount from manufacture to clear out old stock.
    In 2013 I got a 2012 Stump Jumper M.S.R.P of $2,200 for $1,430 out the door but it took me 7 months to decide what I wanted and land that deal but was worth the wait for me for what its worth I bought it at the end of July.
    ​​
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T.
    1997 Rock Hopper / Manitou TI Bulge Fork / Shimano STX-3 x 7 P.O.S.​

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