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  1. #1
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    6 speed cassette on SS hub....Please post your setup

    Hi All,

    I've seen a couple of threads from people running 6-speed setups on a SS hubs. If you have successfully run this setup, can you please post details here for all to see?

    I'm planning a 2x6 setup with my new Paradox, but I haven't got it installed yet. I'll get the thread started with my planned setup. Please post your setup details using a similar format:

    -Rear Hub: Hadley SS 36h with 10mm thru bolt
    -Cassette(s) Used: 11-34 Deore HG61 & 12-36 Deore HG61 (cogs from both to make up my preferred gearing)
    -Gearing/Cogs Used: 36, 30, 24, 20, 16, 12
    -Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT 771GS (Medium Cage, but may require SGS long cage. Not using Shadow based on previous threads mentioning probs with 6 speed setup)
    -Special setup Instructions: None for me so far (others have used longer B tension or low limit screws, removing material from derailleur, etc)

    That's about it. Look forward to hearing what you've got.

  2. #2
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    Good idea for a thread! I have no experience yet so others' will provide more realtime and useful data. I have not set it up yet but am assured by JJones it will work great so I trust it will. Will report back if i have issues, though have no idea when i will get bike/frame to build it up

    -> Rear Hub: King SS
    -> Cassette: Modified/machined (bought from Jeff Jones) XT M770
    -> Gearing/Cogs Used: 17-34t
    -> Rear Derailleur: Shimano Medium Cage XTR M971 (non shadow)
    -> Special setup Instructions: TBD

  3. #3
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    for reference i road with brendan yesterday who had a 4 speed setup. i really liked it

    http://sirenbicycles.wordpress.com/2009/11/20/4-speed/

  4. #4
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    i have an unfinished project as well. i have hadleys. however, i was under the impression i could only do 4 or 5 cogs depending on if i was using hadley, i9, or king. are you sure you can do 6?? is that 10 speed spacing or 9?

    it's been awhile so i believe i was gearing-up (no pun intended) for a 5-cog on the hadley. i had not decided if i was going to do 1 or 2 chain rings. i suppose 1 ring would make a shorter derailleur more likely

    please let me know about the 6 cogs?? so i can re-think my plan...

  5. #5
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    i see someone wrote about hope and 6

    i guess they're all a little different?

    whatever you can fit with the lockring in place i suppose

    i am pretty sure hadley was 5 and i9 was 4. i9 said it on their website in the past.

    i didn't actually slide any cogs on my hub yet...

  6. #6
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    I have a Hadley SS rear hub on order right now -- 32 hole, 10mm bolt on. Planning on lacing them up to Salsa Gordos and running 1x6.

    Found this link in another posting: http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Six_Speed_MTB

    Not sure if I'll be running 8 or nine speed gear. I currently run 1x9 with some SRAMx9 gear, but found an NOS XTR 8 speed rear shifter on ebay a while back. I had XTR 8 speed on my old Stumpy hardtail 10+ years ago -- best shifting setup I've ever had.

  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=mx_599]i have an unfinished project as well. i have hadleys. however, i was under the impression i could only do 4 or 5 cogs depending on if i was using hadley, i9, or king. are you sure you can do 6?? is that 10 speed spacing or 9?.......[QUOTE]

    Six speeds on Hadley SS comes directly from conversation with Hadley (using 9 speed gearing). Also check out this PVDWiki from another user that successfully uses 6 speeds on Hadley SS hub:

    http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Six_Speed_MTB. (Looks like bgtowson beat me to it)

    Additionally, here are a couple of other threads on the subject (that MikeSee pointed out to me). They actually answer a lot of the questions and show different ways to achieve the multi-speed SS rear hub with different hubs/cassettes/etc. I'm hoping the different people on these threads will contribute to this thread so there is one place where anyone can go to get the setup info for their particular build:

    6 cogs on a SS hub -- best solution?

    http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/6-speed-question-help-please-443018-2.html#post4788277

    Keep your setups or setup questions coming!

  8. #8
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    I tried 6 speeds on a Hope SS hub. No luck.

  9. #9
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    Still not sure what you're doing wrong RW.....

    I've been running a variation of this setup for almost three years:

    -Hope SS, with loose shimano cogs (14,16,19,23,27,32)
    -118mm square taper bb, 94 bcd Sugino cranks, 20/34/bash

    X9 short cage mech, older XT front mech, X9 twisties.

  10. #10
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  11. #11
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  12. #12
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    fwiw. i've been running 5 at 9 speed spacing on my SS Hadley hub for about 4 years. Unless the width of the cassette body has changed in that time, I don't think I could get 6 on it and still get the locknut started.
    speculation > I think that I would fit no more than 4 on my Chris King SS hub because the locknut screws onto the outside of the freehub body so you lose about 5mm of real estate for cogs.
    Last edited by fatnold; 11-22-2009 at 01:32 PM.

  13. #13
    Sup
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    could some one post the length of cassette hub for these single speed hubs
    I am getting a I9 for my SS and am curious what the length you have to work with from lock ring to the back of the hub in case I wanted to add gears
    thanks Joe

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerJoe
    could some one post the length of cassette hub for these single speed hubs
    I am getting a I9 for my SS and am curious what the length you have to work with from lock ring to the back of the hub in case I wanted to add gears
    thanks Joe
    I can fit 5 gears on my I9 SS hub.


  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnold
    fwiw. i've been running 5 at 9 speed spacing on my SS Hadley hub for about 4 years. Unless the width of the cassette body has changed in that time, I don't think I could get 6 on it and still get the locknut started.
    FNO take a look at the PVDWiki link above with the guy that runs 6 spds on a Hadley SS hub. He had to machine down the built in spacer on the 11 tooth cog to get the cassette locknut started, but it worked.

    Also, very sweet 1x7 Walt. I wondered about exactly what you did (machining the XT cassette body to allow us to fit another cog that is). Now I know it can be done. I want to run a 36 cog for my low gear and the 17 isn't enough for me on the high side, so it won't work for me, but still an interesting option.

    Now, I'm going to look into machining a bit of the Hadley freehub body to see if that will allow me to achieve 7 gears or not. I may have to do it just to get the 6 I want now, unless I modify the spacer on the small cog as the guy in the PVDWiki did.

    Let's see more guys.....

  16. #16
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    I took a look at Shiggy's 2x5 thread above and found the following threads for your reading enjoyment:

    This one features 6 speeds on a Hadley with a modified XT cassette carrier, also shows someone that modified an American Classic and ran 7 speeds with XTR and Actiontec cogs:

    I made a 6 speed XT 17-34 cassette....

    Not many details as the this post happend in the middle of a thread about Hope Pro2 SS freehub failures, but someone posted a modified XT cassette carrier and got 8 speeds on what I can only assume is a Hope Pro2 SS hub:

    Hope Pro II rebuild pics

  17. #17
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    -Bike: Lynskey Ridgeline, 1X6, SRAM X9 trigger
    -Rear Hub: Hadley SS 32H with 10mm thru axle
    -Cassette(s) Used: 3 XT small cogs, combined with 3 steel cogs (and plastic spacers) from SRAM PG 970 cogset.
    -Gearing/Cogs Used: 32 - 11. Don't recall the jumps; basically, i set it up for moderate jump in cog size in first 5 cogs, then a bigger jump to the 32 T ring (the bailout gear I rarely use)
    -Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 med cage
    -Special setup Instructions: The Hadley freehub is just long enough to hold 6 cogs; so I use a steel lockring to ensure good solid engagement w/ the threads on the Ti freehub. No mods to the derailleur; used the stock screw limit on the small cog. To prevent shifting past the big cog, I just put a 99 cent cable crimp (from hardware store) on the shifter cable near the chainstay cable stop (near the BB shell).

    -Note: I recall that the Hope freehub is longer.
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
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  18. #18
    Uncle
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    First ride today

    Bike: Unmarked Motobecane / KHS Tuscon steel HT 29er
    Drive train:
    LX m580 crank + vuelta 32t cog, bbg guard and Njumpstop device
    Rim: Stans flow
    Hub: DT Swiss 240s SS centerlock / shimano splined "mini" free hub.
    5 Cogs: Sram pg970 cassette cannibalized: 28, 24, 21, 18, 16t, yellow sram spacers (9spd)
    Chain: LX
    Shifter: m750 (RH only)
    rear der: m952 gs mid-cage + 20mm long M4 cap screws (replaced the limit screws)

    results: Dialed it in last night and found a sweet spot with the shifting. Noticed right off that my xt shifter will jump up to 4 gears per sweep of the thumb, which takes me from my 16t all the way to the 28t -- sweet!

    Rode China Camp today, including a grind up to the nike platforms via a steep paved road. Good stiff wheel and good chain worked quietly and quickly -- way less noise than the 1x9 set up I was using before.

    The 16t left me wanting a higher top gear, but having to spin to keep the speed up made things interesting anyway. Overall, the set up was perfect for such a mild venue.

    The pros: shaved more than 1/2 pound by making the change to this wheel (newer, lighter tire helped of course); drive train feels very positively engaged; stiff & zippy comes to mind.

    The cons: small nicks in my freehub body from the individual cogs after just one ride . I need a way to spread the load across the surface of the freehub body, so I will have to get a carrier / spider type cassette. Considering an XT 11-32 as the donor cassette, but perhaps sticking with just 5 gears on the pg 990 cassette will do just fine. We'll see. I will seek out a machinist in the area to see what such work will cost (I have no drill press unfortunately).

    Hopefully will have better news soon.
    -Josh
    Last edited by Entrenador; 11-23-2009 at 03:04 AM.

  19. #19
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    105 - if you use a PG990 11-32, no machining required. You'll just use spacers included w/ the cassette, and might have to adjust your rear mech a little. It's the most solid way to go.
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  20. #20
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    rear hub: king ss
    cassette: modified/machined XT CS-M737-I, 8-speed spacing
    gearing/cogs: 5 speed, 17-30t (all on the spider for best force spreading and stiffness) - 190g
    rear derailleur: short cage XTR M952 (grey one)
    chainring: surly 30t
    chain: shimano cn hg90
    shifter: suntour xc pro
    special setup instructions: longer limit screws

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 105millimetersofpleasure
    The cons: small nicks in my freehub body from the individual cogs after just one ride . I need a way to spread the load across the surface of the freehub body, so I will have to get a carrier / spider type cassette. Considering an XT 11-32 as the donor cassette, but perhaps sticking with just 5 gears on the pg 990 cassette will do just fine. We'll see. I will seek out a machinist in the area to see what such work will cost (I have no drill press unfortunately).

    Hopefully will have better news soon.
    -Josh
    Hey Josh, I'm in the Bay Area and I've been thinking about contacting a machinist for the same thing.

    For simplicity sake, I think taking a Shimano HG61 level cassette (the ones with rivets holding them together) or a SRAM 970 (that actually has bolts holding it together with a female threaded small cog -- see pix) might be the way to go. In this configuration, you could either use the female threaded small cog of the 970 or if you want a larger small cog, you could have it tapped to add female threads. Then we just need to machine a new bolt to the desired length to hold it all together.This would at least distribute the pressure across multiple cogs instead of just the one your pedaling. Also, as long as you keep the same small cog, you could change other cogs as you desire and then just bolt it all back together in the end.

    Anyway, let us know what you come up with if you talk to a machinist.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6 speed cassette on SS hub....Please post your setup-6speed2.jpg  

    6 speed cassette on SS hub....Please post your setup-6speed3.jpg  


  22. #22
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    I ran the following setup about 2 years ago, but have since changed to an Alfine hub:

    Hub: Hope SS
    Cassettes used: Some old Shimano 8 speed ones that could be taken apart, and a Ritchey 33t offset Ti cog
    Gearing: 5 speed with 8 speed spacing: 33-28-24-20-16, & a Surly 30t chainring
    Rear Der: Old XTR M951
    Setup: Longer limit screw. I used an old XT thumbshifter and it worked perfectly. It was definately lighter than the Alfine setup, but the Alfine has 2 big advatages: wider gear range & no derailleur to bend/snag/break!

    Mark

  23. #23
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    [QUOTE=frorider] To prevent shifting past the big cog, I just put a 99 cent cable crimp (from hardware store) on the shifter cable near the chainstay cable stop (near the BB shell). [QUOTE]

    Frorider, is this something you can take pix of? I assume the cable crimp runs into something which prevents the shift cable from moving any further? Is that correct? If so, what is it that the cable crimp physically contacts to prevent cable movement?

    Thanks

  24. #24
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    Hub: Hope SS
    Cassette: Sram 8sp
    Gearing: 5 spd, 14-24t, 32t front
    Rear Der: Shimano 105
    Shifter: Sram 8sp

    Beyond pulling the bolt in the cassette and choosing which gears I wanted to run, there were no special mods needed. I'm having slight shifter compatibility issues though, it seems. I essentially only have 4 usable gears, as it just skips right over the middle one. Works well enough for my purposes though.

  25. #25
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    Hope SS....

    XT 34t cassette... IIRC M760 era.
    Hope SS hub
    Coda 5 arm compact cranks with 20/30/42 teeth
    XTR rear derailleur, M750 grey era.
    New XT front derailleur
    LX Dual Control shifters for Hydro brakes

    For the life of me, I could not get the shifting to work well, and I'm usually pretty good at gear setups. It felt cross chained in granny gear, and I found that I had to shift into the big ring up front all the time because I would spin out the cassette in middle ring on the flats or slight uphills.

    It was nice having the extra stiff back wheel, tho.

    I ran it for about two weeks and gave up. I went back to regular 3x9 gearing.

    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z9wXk0EyjUhSGYR8YkmFJw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zZ7tZYTZu1o/StwBNVqZeDI/AAAAAAAALco/pGm9zLvFFro/s800/IMG_2043.JPG" /></a>

    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mqnz73_KRqXjl5dQTH6FnA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zZ7tZYTZu1o/StwBN4O6WxI/AAAAAAAALcw/ZMTDl9Af3Aw/s800/IMG_2044.JPG" /></a>

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    XT 34t cassette... IIRC M760 era.
    Hope SS hub
    Coda 5 arm compact cranks with 20/30/42 teeth
    XTR rear derailleur, M750 grey era.
    New XT front derailleur
    LX Dual Control shifters for Hydro brakes

    For the life of me, I could not get the shifting to work well, and I'm usually pretty good at gear setups. It felt cross chained in granny gear, and I found that I had to shift into the big ring up front all the time because I would spin out the cassette in middle ring on the flats or slight uphills.

    It was nice having the extra stiff back wheel, tho.

    I ran it for about two weeks and gave up. I went back to regular 3x9 gearing.

    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z9wXk0EyjUhSGYR8YkmFJw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zZ7tZYTZu1o/StwBNVqZeDI/AAAAAAAALco/pGm9zLvFFro/s800/IMG_2043.JPG" /></a>

    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mqnz73_KRqXjl5dQTH6FnA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zZ7tZYTZu1o/StwBN4O6WxI/AAAAAAAALcw/ZMTDl9Af3Aw/s800/IMG_2044.JPG" /></a>
    Yo Pimpy, that explains why you never got that 20t 58bcd ring from me; still sittin' in my tool box waiting for you.

    I want to borrow your wheel (or hub) / cassette combo if possible. I don't need to ride it, just want to see how it lines up in my rear triangle, and see if the chain will clear the seat stay with 6 gears in the back. Let me know if/when I can snatch it for a few minutes. Cool?

  27. #27
    Uncle
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenLightGo
    105 - if you use a PG990 11-32, no machining required. You'll just use spacers included w/ the cassette, and might have to adjust your rear mech a little. It's the most solid way to go.
    I have that cassette in hand, and the 5th cog is an 18t. You're right, no machining required to mount it, but in this case the chain grazes my seat stay slightly while on the 18t. I'll need to machine down the pg990 spider by ~1.5mm or so on the inside surface to get the chain to clear. This concession, assuming it's not an expensive process, is a nuisance but should be my last set-up issue. If I were going to do it again, I'd do more research on the freehub bodies out there, and buy something more durable so that the spider-free gearing options would open up. At least for now, I'm aiming at an eventual 32/44 double / 18-32t rear combo as the end of the line on this project.

    My next project will be getting strong enough to push my 32-32 up our steepest local trails.

    Of course, I'll post here after the trip to the machine shop with an update.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 105millimetersofpleasure
    I have that cassette in hand, and the 5th cog is an 18t. You're right, no machining required to mount it, but in this case the chain grazes my seat stay slightly while on the 18t. I'll need to machine down the pg990 spider by ~1.5mm or so on the inside surface to get the chain to clear. This concession, assuming it's not an expensive process, is a nuisance but should be my last set-up issue. If I were going to do it again, I'd do more research on the freehub bodies out there, and buy something more durable so that the spider-free gearing options would open up. At least for now, I'm aiming at an eventual 32/44 double / 18-32t rear combo as the end of the line on this project.

    My next project will be getting strong enough to push my 32-32 up our steepest local trails.

    Of course, I'll post here after the trip to the machine shop with an update.
    Interesting. I had all sorts of room on my Astrix Rook. Anyway - post updates for sure!

    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ShzmHe6Su0bqw9nj68f4Eg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_2W6rELw9q40/R2MZWFPHehI/AAAAAAAABBo/4TeSu8UqvJI/s800/IMG_2252.JPG" /></a>
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  29. #29
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    Budget steel hardtail seatstays...

    Quote Originally Posted by GreenLightGo
    Interesting. I had all sorts of room on my Astrix Rook. Anyway - post updates for sure!
    Update: I'm going to try 6 cogs by goin' teeny.

    I searched around town today seeking the right shop, and on the fourth try, I found a shop in Berkeley (Alfa Romeo specialists -- who would thunk it?) that will do it for me for $30 per cassette, but being almost Thanksgiving, he can't start it until next week. The $30 will cover milling down both the inside flange and the outside built in spacer. My hope is that I'll be able to slide the narrowed 5 cog spider onto the freehub, and then cap it off with a 12t cog on the end -- the end cogs have a deeper spline interface than the cheapo steel middle cogs, so hopefully this separate little cog on the end will do less harm to the freehub body. If it works, I'll have 6 cogs after all: 32,28,24,21,18, and a tiny, chainstay-clearing 12t. Any idea what the shifting performance will be like jumping from the 12t up to the 18t? I'm guessing it'll be pretty clunky, but if all goes well, I'll be able to shift to the 12t only on the long flats or descents and carry a nice top speed. Anyone try this yet?

    FYI -- I just noticed that the new 2009 or 2010 PG990 cassettes have 6 cogs on the carrier instead of 5 cogs like the original red carrier. I bought two earlier versions on sale at $65 a pop via PricePoint just in case: If I'm having clearance issues with 5 cogs, I don't see making the 6 cog set up work very easily (unless its a 12 or 11t -- no clearance issues for such a small gear.)

    More to follow.
    105mm

  30. #30
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    Hey Walt -- 240s question

    I'm using the same hub I think (DT Swiss 240s SS hub is what you have there, yes?), and I'm going the cogs-on-carrier only route. With your 7 speed set up, where did you find your separate 15t cog? I'm assuming that your 15t cog is one of the end-type cogs, with a thicker spline interface than one of the middle rings. Is this right, or did you pull the 15t from somewhere else? If it's not one of the end-o'-cassette cogs, how do you prevent freehub damage?

    Thanks for posting about this, and for any guidance on this.
    105mm

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 105millimetersofpleasure
    Update: I'm going to try 6 cogs by goin' teeny.

    I searched around town today seeking the right shop, and on the fourth try, I found a shop in Berkeley (Alfa Romeo specialists -- who would thunk it?) that will do it for me for $30 per cassette, but being almost Thanksgiving, he can't start it until next week. The $30 will cover milling down both the inside flange and the outside built in spacer. My hope is that I'll be able to slide the narrowed 5 cog spider onto the freehub, and then cap it off with a 12t cog on the end -- the end cogs have a deeper spline interface than the cheapo steel middle cogs, so hopefully this separate little cog on the end will do less harm to the freehub body. If it works, I'll have 6 cogs after all: 32,28,24,21,18, and a tiny, chainstay-clearing 12t. Any idea what the shifting performance will be like jumping from the 12t up to the 18t? I'm guessing it'll be pretty clunky, but if all goes well, I'll be able to shift to the 12t only on the long flats or descents and carry a nice top speed. Anyone try this yet?

    FYI -- I just noticed that the new 2009 or 2010 PG990 cassettes have 6 cogs on the carrier instead of 5 cogs like the original red carrier. I bought two earlier versions on sale at $65 a pop via PricePoint just in case: If I'm having clearance issues with 5 cogs, I don't see making the 6 cog set up work very easily (unless its a 12 or 11t -- no clearance issues for such a small gear.)

    More to follow.
    105mm
    I think the 11-34 PG990s have always had 6 on the red spider, the 11-32 have 5. Haven't picked one up in a while, have two 11-32s on hand so haven't needed to explore that avenue for the last year and a half.
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  32. #32
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    this is interesting but why? i ride a ss and have thought of how to add a lower gear for the "road" parts of rides but seems if your gonna have gears,.. have gears.. ala 2x10,3x9,... whatever. or explain something im missing. dont get me wrong, i thinks its pretty cool, but if im gonna have to hear chain slap then id probably use every gear i could have.think the same thing when i see a 1x9 setup, why not go ahead and add at least a granny? i understand the stronger wheel, but ive always been pretty easy on wheels anyway, weight, what a few ounces, hell i weigh 200 lbs. like i said, very cool ideas and i like the tinkering aspect but would like some more info on advantages. thanks..

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtibb
    this is interesting but why? i ride a ss and have thought of how to add a lower gear for the "road" parts of rides but seems if your gonna have gears,.. have gears.. ala 2x10,3x9,... whatever. or explain something im missing. dont get me wrong, i thinks its pretty cool, but if im gonna have to hear chain slap then id probably use every gear i could have.think the same thing when i see a 1x9 setup, why not go ahead and add at least a granny? i understand the stronger wheel, but ive always been pretty easy on wheels anyway, weight, what a few ounces, hell i weigh 200 lbs. like i said, very cool ideas and i like the tinkering aspect but would like some more info on advantages. thanks..
    I can't speak for others, but for me it's all about building the strongest rear wheel possible. The ability to build a dishless rear wheel adds a LOT of lateral stiffness to the rear wheel (an even bigger issue with 29ers). Also, being an uber-clyde at about 270lbs, a strong wheel is all important for me.

    I'll have an update on my initial post above in a day or two. I've got the rear wheel and have torn apart a new Shimano 12-36 and installed the initial 6 cogs on the freehub (individual cogs at this point, but still trying to figure out how I can rivet the 6 cogs back together as Shimano delivers them from the factory, so as to inflict less damage on the freehub body from single cogs). Going to work on setting up the rear derailleur either later tonite or tomorrow. Will report back.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by longdrive55
    I've got the rear wheel and have torn apart a new Shimano 12-36 and installed the initial 6 cogs on the freehub (individual cogs at this point, but still trying to figure out how I can rivet the 6 cogs back together as Shimano delivers them from the factory, so as to inflict less damage on the freehub body from single cogs). Going to work on setting up the rear derailleur either later tonite or tomorrow. Will report back.
    I was thinking about ways to rivet the cheaper, non-carrier mounted pg970 cogs together in a stiff manner so as to inflict less damage onto the my alloy freehub body -- even the skinny cogs, if sharing the load, should likely do little damage I'd guess.

    Looking forward to hearing about your results, longdrive55. Please keep us posted.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtibb
    this is interesting but why? ... very cool ideas and i like the tinkering aspect but would like some more info on advantages. thanks..
    Just a list, not in order of importance (varies from rider to rider of course):
    * less mechanisms = less tuning, less maintenance, less parts that might fail, and less attention needed to ride effectively
    * "cleaner" bike; less cluttered bars, frame and cranks
    * weight savings of ~1.5lbs on my bike (just one shifter, cable, housing, chainring, derailer, sans 4-6 chainlinks, & 3 rear cogs; rear hub is ~100g lighter too in my case).
    * better, more efficient chainline than a 1x9 arrangement
    * Much stronger and stiffer rear wheel
    * better challenge than a 3x9: While riding today, I thought "Can I clean this climb without a granny?" The answer in most cases was yes, and in the cases where it was no, a granny gear wouldn't have helped much. In short, a granny ring isn't very useful on a 29er around here for me.

    I'm sure a few folks will add more, but these are my reasons. If I can get this working right, less will be more. Why not go SS? I'm not confident enough in my ability or my ability to dedicate the time needed to maintain SS condition. Perhaps someday I'll get there; perhaps someday, I'll need to go back to a 3x9. For now, I can ride my favorite trails with just 6 gears if they are the right ones.

    Now, if I could put a 30t & 42t chainrings on my current cranks, and gain the added weight of a front shifter system, I'd do it in a heartbeat. But since my current options go no lower than a 32t up front, I'll keep it the way it is as long as it works for me. I'm hopeful that my 6-cog rear end will be completely adequate from here on out though regardless of what changes I make at the cranks.

  36. #36
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    Anybody racing on their 1x6 setup?? I'm thinking about doing this to shave some weight for next season and still have a few gears
    2007 Redline Monocog 29er
    2008 Specialized Stumpjumper comp

  37. #37
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    It is possible to add an extra cog by offsetting it here is one method http://share.ovi.com/media/currentre...resident.10053 http://share.ovi.com/media/currentre...resident.10054 I use 8 cogs with 9 cog spacing it allows me to build a zerodish wheel in 135 mm I have 70000 miles and my beta testers have done an additional 10000 miles with out any problems.

  38. #38
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    anyone ever used a saint 810 with the high range widget in place? im guessing plenty of b tension and longer low range bolts?

  39. #39
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    Mine is in process still but will be Sram 970 w/ X9 mid. I hope it works out as planned, should be fun if all goes well.
    I like to ride Bikes. This might be turning into an obsession, not sure?

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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn
    anyone ever used a saint 810 with the high range widget in place? im guessing plenty of b tension and longer low range bolts?
    Rumor has it the shadow der's do not place nice....I believe the Saint is only available in that configuration.


  41. #41
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    this sux, wish I look into this thread earlier, could've had my wheelset with SS rear hub

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenLightGo
    Interesting. I had all sorts of room on my Astrix Rook. Anyway - post updates for sure!

    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ShzmHe6Su0bqw9nj68f4Eg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_2W6rELw9q40/R2MZWFPHehI/AAAAAAAABBo/4TeSu8UqvJI/s800/IMG_2252.JPG" /></a>
    Greenlight
    what cassette is that and how did you modify it?
    I like to ride Bikes. This might be turning into an obsession, not sure?

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  43. #43
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    anyone using a 9 speed ultegra 6500 block, alloy carrier for top 3 21/24/27. next 2 (17/19) are pinnned together and then something like a king cog 15 toother? that has a wide base, and should shoulder up to the 17 nicely or maybe with a 1mm spacer, all fit on the freehub body and shouldnt damage alloy carriers. it should also work with shadow type derailleurs and give a useful range? thoughts?

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn
    anyone using a 9 speed ultegra 6500 block, alloy carrier for top 3 21/24/27. next 2 (17/19) are pinnned together and then something like a king cog 15 toother? that has a wide base, and should shoulder up to the 17 nicely or maybe with a 1mm spacer, all fit on the freehub body and shouldnt damage alloy carriers. it should also work with shadow type derailleurs and give a useful range? thoughts?
    I like the idea. Thought initially about getting a carrier-based road cassette, but I went with the pg990 that I had here instead. Post pics if you try it.
    thx

  45. #45
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    Just wanted to quickly add to this thread, since it (and others like it) inspired me to go 1x7 on my hardtail.

    Setup:
    Modified M770 11-34 cassette, using the top 6 cogs on the carrier and the loose 13t. Using the stock 11t XT lock ring
    Hope Pro2 trials/SS hub
    Shimano Saint M810 short cage shaddow rear der.
    XT M770 shifter

    I wll try to take some photos tomorrow with details of how much was machined off the cassette, etc. I've ridden it around the street and it's all working fine. Shadow der. has no clearance issues with frame, cassette or spokes.
    Will hopefully take it for a proper test ride in a day or two to put it through its paces.

  46. #46
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    OK, here are some photos to go with my earlier post.

    Setup:
    Modified M770 11-34 cassette, using the top 6 cogs on the carrier and the loose 13t.
    2mm machined off the back (spoke side)
    Other end of carrier was machined off flush with the 17t cog since the 13t has the 'spacer' built in.

    Using the stock 11t XT lock ring
    Hope Pro2 trials/SS hub
    Shimano Saint M810 short cage shaddow rear der. No mods required at all.
    XT M770 shifter

    Apologies in advance for the 26" wheel.










  47. #47
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    Has anyone tried this with a Paul Word rear hub?
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1703

  48. #48
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    Middleburn Duo / 240s SS 2x5 (goin' to 2x6)

    I'm currently running a 2x5 on my Surly KM, using the 240s SS. I have a couple of 11-34T cassettes to go to the machine shop to whittle down the 6 speed spider. Here's my current setup -

    Surly KM
    Middleburn Duo 27/40
    XTR FD-M953 front der
    XTR RD-M960 rear der
    XTR SL-M970 shifters
    DT Swiss 240s SS bolt on
    XT CS-M770 5 speed spider from 11-32 cassette
    XT CS-M770 6 speed spider from 11-34 cassette (to be machined)

    <img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_6H-CDvmDkvg/S86vxVpd7cI/AAAAAAAADuY/dTNTVv7Y-xc/s576/ED03bqpyepN1.jpg">

    <img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_6H-CDvmDkvg/S86v3qj9WrI/AAAAAAAADuc/LrGMpn785DM/s800/Jm1bjtbD4tAN.jpg">

    <img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6H-CDvmDkvg/S5xMTGSfPfI/AAAAAAAADpA/rAFuiFOMl1s/s800/IMG_0854.jpg">

    <img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6H-CDvmDkvg/S5xMUJMnPDI/AAAAAAAADpE/vKKF-ieKiVs/s800/IMG_0856.jpg">

    I won't run single cogs, only complete spiders, as the 240s hub is aluminum. For those wanting to pick & choose single cogs, use the Hope SS hub (steel). I opted for a quieter ride.
    Last edited by tedsalt; 04-21-2010 at 08:13 AM.

  49. #49
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    Another non-29er here...

    ...but still someone who wants a stronger rear wheel. This is what I ended up with on my do-all 26" Ti hardtail (everything in moderation: street, trials, DJ, pumptrack, technical XC -- that sort of thing). The bike has a short wheelbase, stiff sprung fork, low seat, compact cockpit; you get the idea.

    • Hope Pro 2 SS/Trials hub, 36h.
    • Shimano CS-HG70 8 speed cassette, 11-28T. I'm using 14-16-18-21-24-28 bolted cluster, except the 14T cog which I had to adjust out because it has no support from the freehub body.
    • Chris King Ti lockring, 12T. It has a longer threaded part than a typical lockring, and it holds well against the 14T cog.
    • Shimano Saint M810 rear derailer, short cage. It's excellent.
    • Shimano R440 8-speed shifter. It's a non-group component for flat bar road bikes. I removed the indicator.
    • 32T non-ramped chainring.
    • e13 LG1+ 32-36T chainguide. Another excellent product, very adjustable and light. It totally works, always keeps the chain on and protects the chainring.


    The Hope SS freehub lathe mod by Walt in this thread is very interesting, perhaps it would enable the use of 14T cog, thus giving me nearly all the gears I need on this kind of bike.
    Last edited by J. Random Psycho; 07-03-2010 at 05:17 PM.
    26" rigid SS 4130 BB7 nylon-flats ESI latex-tubes non-lubricated-8spd

  50. #50
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    Here's my setup. Sorry no 29er but its got six speeds so.....

    Chris King hub
    XT cassette 17-34
    XTR short cage derailleur

    I ordered my cassette from Waltworks. He did a good job removing the metal from the back side of the cassette body but when I went to install it it slid on enough that the carrier came in contact with the spokes. So I had to put spacers behind the cassette to move it out a bit. By doing that it brought the cassette out far enough that it now covered up the threads on the outside of the cassette body so I couldn't put the lockring on. I took the cassette down to a local machine shop and had them removed the metal on the front of the aluminum carrier. He turned down as much as he could which was enough for me to get the lockring on. Next time I want to do this I'll take it straight to this shop. The mostly work on race car engines and they do real nice work. Even on a little job like mine they took their time and did ver clean and precise work. The only other thing I had to do was get a longer limit screw for my derailleur. Its a real nice ugly bolt purchased from Lowe's. I'm running mine with a White Industries two ring setup (38-28) and its perfect for the riding I do. Doug from White industries recommended a Shimano SLX double front derailleur and it works flawlessly. It has a shorter cage so it can be mounted lower on the seat tube without hitting the chainstay. The only thing I would want to change is to run a DT Swiss single speed hub. I prefer centerlock rotors and DT Swiss uses the traditional cassette lockring instead of the threads being on the outside like King's.




  51. #51
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    8 gears, Hope Pro II


  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by banksd1983
    8 gears, Hope Pro II

    No problems at all?? Machined cassette and free hub?

  53. #53
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    Is that theoretical or have you used it, as in all the cogs? Have to ask as it looks like you've got a good bit of room still between the spokes and cassette similar to when I tried mine, but when I tried to use the 8th cog the chain rubbed on the dropout.
    Quote Originally Posted by banksd1983
    8 gears, Hope Pro II

    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  54. #54
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    The spacing between those 8 cogs looks suspiciously narrow.
    26" rigid SS 4130 BB7 nylon-flats ESI latex-tubes non-lubricated-8spd

  55. #55
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    22-34-bash on 180 mm Stylo Crankset
    6 cogs on spider(XT 9spd cassette) 17-34
    Hope SS hub (steel freehub body)
    X9 mid cage rear derailleur, longer low limit screw, cut a groove in derailleur body for it to fall into. Washer underneath derailleur mounting bolt(where it screws onto the hanger)
    17t(smallest cog) is the third position of the X9 shifter.

    I am getting some rub in the 17t cog, the low litit screw still hits acting as a bit of a high limit.
    I am getting ghost shifting when running on the 22t front ring on everything but the 34t cog. This may also be due to a bent frame or hanger.

  56. #56
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    fyi, the one pictured a few posts up is on a 26er wheel. 8 cogs. I forgot this was the 29er forum.


    The trick is finding a way to get 8 gears on a SS hub paired with a 29er wheel. The angle of the spokes gets in the way moreso on the big wheels, only allowing for 7 as of now.

  57. #57
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    Bike: 2010 Stumpjumper FSR.

    Front: Stylo 180 mm cranks with 22-34-bash, SLX direct mount front derailleur
    Rear: Hope SS hub, 11-34 XT cassette ground down to just fit the 6 fixed and one loose cog on there. Lockring for 12t cassette.
    X9 mid cage rear derailleur, longer low limit screw, dremeled out a bit so it doesn't act as the high limit as well.

    The key for me was machining down the spider. This allowed the low limit screw to be more normal and the derailleur clears the cogs better too.

  58. #58
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    VERY interested in this setup. I'm getting ready to order a new rear wheel and might go this route but first, a couple quick questions...

    Assuming I buy a Hope Pro ll SS/Trials hub equipped wheel and want to go 5 speed...

    1) Will my current X9 trigger shifter and X0 short cage derailleur work? I'm counting on having to mess with the set screws, possibly replacing them with new ones from the hardware store, but is it possible to make it work or is Shimano the only option?

    2) Will any of the cassettes in 11-32 with the five gear carrier bolt right on and work, i.e., SRAM PG 990, Shimano XT, Shimano XTR?

    I like the concept but don't want to mess with going to machine shops and replacing my already expensive equipment with more expensive equipment. Since I'm already buying a wheel I figured I might want to give it a go

  59. #59
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    Yes, any of the 32-11 cassettes will work, but you will most likely need to ad spacers on the end to get the lockring to tighten it down. I bolted the 34-17 6 cog right on mine, nothing extra needed, oh except use a 12 or 13t lockring for safety.

    Also using the 32 instead of 34 will make setting things up a bit easier, especially with the B limit screw and keeping the pulley off the cogs.
    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    VERY interested in this setup. I'm getting ready to order a new rear wheel and might go this route but first, a couple quick questions...

    Assuming I buy a Hope Pro ll SS/Trials hub equipped wheel and want to go 5 speed...

    1) Will my current X9 trigger shifter and X0 short cage derailleur work? I'm counting on having to mess with the set screws, possibly replacing them with new ones from the hardware store, but is it possible to make it work or is Shimano the only option?

    2) Will any of the cassettes in 11-32 with the five gear carrier bolt right on and work, i.e., SRAM PG 990, Shimano XT, Shimano XTR?

    I like the concept but don't want to mess with going to machine shops and replacing my already expensive equipment with more expensive equipment. Since I'm already buying a wheel I figured I might want to give it a go
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  60. #60
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    I've already got the 12-34 XTR cassette so I might give that a go. I was going to buy a used 11-32 XTR for ease of installation but I guess I'll give the 12-34 a go Thanks for the quick reply!

  61. #61
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    Does enaybody have a list of the freehub width of the different singlespeed hubs?

    Like DT swiss/CK/Hope etc.

    I have already built 6 and 5 speed Hope setups and I want to try something different. Maybe DT Swiss.

    A list of the different hubs with the freehub width would help in my choice and might be helpful for others.

  62. #62
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    Here is my photo of the Hope Trials/SS freehub dimensions. I think it might be of some help to people to have some objective information. Note that Shimano 9 speed uses 1.78 mm sprocket thickness and 2.56 mm spacer thickness. Thus 6 speeds uses 1.78*6+2.56*5=23.48 mm. I had loose cogs on mine and indeed, there was about a half millimeter of play before I added a 1 mm cassette spacer behind my cluster. The XT spider probably has the width of 6 cogs and six spacers, which is why, at 26.04 mm it would work without any modification. (Shimano lockrings have about 4 mm of threaded section.)

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by dejock View Post
    Has anyone tried this with a Paul Word rear hub?
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1703
    This thread is only applicable to cassette-style SS hubs. Paul, White Industries, Phil Wood and a few others make SS hubs for use with spin-on freewheels like the White ENO.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by jncarpenter View Post
    I can fit 5 gears on my I9 SS hub.
    I've fit 6 using 10-speed SRAM components (23-21-19 on the carrier, then 17-15-13 as loose cogs with spacers.) Must admit that I have yet to see if it all works installed, but it seems to fit nicely on the hub.

    If you are wondering about my choice of gearing, I'm coming off of 3 years with a rigid 26" SS (32/17) as my primary MTB, so I'm thinking that a FS 26" 1x6 (32t front + bash) with 3 lower gears and 2 higher gears than what I am used to should seem like luxury. I'm planning to run an Ultegra triple derailleur and a Paul Thumbie with a Shimano bar-end shifter. Might even be able to get the clicks to line up, but if not I'm old enough to have gotten good with friction shifting back when it was the only option and I have run it on my commuter for the past 10 years or so, so I'm not concerned about that.

  65. #65
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    Does anyone know if a ZTR SS hub will work with a 6speed cassette ?
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  66. #66
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    I'm a longtime lurker on this thread...
    * Just built a new wheel; Hadley SS thru-axle hub, laced to WTB Laser 29er TCS rim
    * My plan is to cannibalize 6-cogs off an XT 11-34 (9-spd) cassette
    * As mentioned here, I'll need to machine 2-3 mm off the back of the carrier
    * Question: Has anyone tried machining the carrier, using a milling-bit in a drill-press?
    * How much precision is called for? For example, could I use a die-grinder for the job?

    Thanks in advance
    Brisbane, AU

  67. #67
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    8

    This is my setup with 8 o 10 speed cassette:

    12-15-18-21-24-28-32-36

    Shimano SLX cassette. Spider machined down of 2,5mm. 18 is a spared part.
    The hub axle il modified too for 142x12 standard on my Norco Shinobi.


  68. #68
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    Help! My head hurts!

    Here's my modified PG-990 cassette spider, mounted on Hadley SS hub...


    So far, so good!
    But now the fun begins, as my SRAM X-7 derailleur just doesn't want to shift 6-speeds:
    • With B-limit adjustment maxed-out, the top jockey wheel still interferes with the 34T cog
    • I fitted a longer L limit screw, but it's just not happening with the X-7 derailleur :-(


    Buggah! For now I'd better restore the old 2x9 setup, in time for tomorrow's XC ride. But meanwhile, I'd be grateful for advice on what works. For example, I'm considering swapping the (well-worn) X-7 out for a Shimano derailleur instead. But which model? And of course that means new shifter as well. Ideas?
    Brisbane, AU

  69. #69
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    Rob you might be the first one to try the ZTR and if you do try it let us know how it works out. I'm going to take apart my Haro Ally ss tomorrow and have a look at that Pivit ss hub and see what I can do but I must get a RD hanger and then I'm good to go this is my winter bike but I'm in need of more then one gear. Hoot maybe long cage or med or short has something to do with it I think from back when I was reading up on this last year but if I remember right (and is most likely wrong) that most people had better luck with the xt RD.

  70. #70
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    hootsmon,
    if you decide in favor of Shimano derailer, look at Saint 810 short cage. That's what I used to run on 1x6, 1x5 setups before I went to 2x1 with Hammerschmidt (1x5 was still too many gears and too slow shifting -- I wanted 2 or 3 gears, and instant shifting).
    26" rigid SS 4130 BB7 nylon-flats ESI latex-tubes non-lubricated-8spd

  71. #71
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    Hadley 1x6

    Here's my bike. It has a Hadley SS hub - I was able to fit 6 SRAM 9-speed cogs on there. I had to clamp a tiny screw with a hole through it to shifter cable to act as an "lower limit" because the "true" lower limit adjuster on the X.0 short cage couldn't be used to that extreme. It actually ended up working flawlessly. Interesting.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6 speed cassette on SS hub....Please post your setup-el-mariachi.jpg  


  72. #72
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    Hi crawdad, which SRAM cogset did you used?
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  73. #73
    NWS
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    Does anyone have a rough idea how large of a cog can the Hope hub handle without getting chewed up? I'm running single-speed with 26" wheels, 32t front ring right now, with a 14t rear.

    Moving to a 6-speed setup with an 11-22 cassette sounds pretty appealing, and I'm wondering if I can get away without using a carrier. A stack of cogs would be really easy to assemble, and I want to run small cogs to get the ratios I want with a reasonable chainring. I just wonder if climbing on the 22t cog will damage the hub.

    Thanks in advance for any insights!

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by NWS View Post
    Does anyone have a rough idea how large of a cog can the Hope hub handle without getting chewed up? I'm running single-speed with 26" wheels, 32t front ring right now, with a 14t rear.

    Moving to a 6-speed setup with an 11-22 cassette sounds pretty appealing, and I'm wondering if I can get away without using a carrier. A stack of cogs would be really easy to assemble, and I want to run small cogs to get the ratios I want with a reasonable chainring. I just wonder if climbing on the 22t cog will damage the hub.

    Thanks in advance for any insights!
    You will have no problem at all with that setup. The Hope hub is made to use cogs that size as the only cog! It has a steel freehub body and even with narrow base cogs, it will be no issue.

    For about 2 years I ran a Hope SS hub with 6 8 speed cogs(all loose), sized 12-33, and had no issue at all. The 33t was an old Ritchey dished cog that was made to turn an 8 speed system into a 9 speed one (with 8 speed spacing).

    You will be fine. You might even want to consider a wider gear range.

  75. #75
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    I did it with up to 28T loose cog on Hope Pro 2 SS/Trials. Freehub damage was cosmetic and only took some fiddling to remove cassette and file down the raised metal areas the 1st time. Almost all cogs on that cassette did similar impressions on the freehub, so the damage definitely stops once it reaches a certain point, and material there holds up to much bigger torques ever since.
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  76. #76
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    That's great news, thanks!
    More range would be cool too.

    Do any of you have opinions about Miche cassettes and cogs? I was thinking about using one of their cassettes as a starting point, since it seems to be assembled from just a stack of cogs with no carrier.

    I haven't seen one up close though, just pics in a some online catalogs.

  77. #77
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    I was just about to dive in, and realized that Hope's Pro 2 SS hub is only available in 135mm, whereas the bike I want to do this to has a 150mm rear.

    Are there any 150mm hubs suitable for a 6-speed setup, like Hope's?

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    Um, I think you're missing the point, those of us who did this did it to achieve a dishless, stronger wheel to help counter the longer spokes of 29ers. If you've got a 150 capable rear, you just need to select the right hub that is designed properly to build as dishless a wheel as possible. I now run a 150 x 12 rear on my Phantom, and although it isn't absolutely dishless, it's damn close and I get to run a full cassette. If you somehow find an SS/Short freehub 150 x 12 hub, then you'll be going the other way as with that width it will have to be dished.

    Quote Originally Posted by NWS View Post
    I was just about to dive in, and realized that Hope's Pro 2 SS hub is only available in 135mm, whereas the bike I want to do this to has a 150mm rear.

    Are there any 150mm hubs suitable for a 6-speed setup, like Hope's?
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  79. #79
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    I have different reasons for wanting a stronger wheel. I don't care much about dish, I just want wider flange spacing. And since half the cogs on my DH bike's cassette are doing nothing for me anyhow...

  80. #80
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    Well I did it for 26" wheels, they benefit from larger distance between flanges too.. but yes I don't recall any short freehub models among 150/157 mm hubs.
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  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by NWS View Post
    Do any of you have opinions about Miche cassettes and cogs? I was thinking about using one of their cassettes as a starting point, since it seems to be assembled from just a stack of cogs with no carrier.

    I haven't seen one up close though, just pics in a some online catalogs.
    I can now answer my own question... Miche cassettes are OK for doing this kind of thing on a Shimano/SRAM compatible freehub. You can pick your own cogs, no fabrication necessary. The biggest drawbacks are that you're stuck with 11-12 as your first two cogs (those two are different from all the others) and shifts don't seem to be as quick as my regular Shimano and SRAM cassettes. I don't think their cogs have as many shifting features carved into them.

    I bought an 11-27 cassette plus individual cogs for the sizes that didn't come in the cassette. Last weekend I tried an 11-12-13-15-18-22 stack of cogs on my DH bike, just to get some experience with this idea. Worked just fine for lift-served stuff, but of course I spent most of my time on the 11t cog. I'm going to take it to a non-lift-served park next to see how I feel about pedaling around with a 1x6 setup.

    If this goes well, I'll get a Hope trials hub for my slopestyle bike and move these cogs to it. And if not, my DH bike just shed its four heaviest cogs so this is probably still a win even if I make no other changes from this point.

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    Never ridden a DH specific bike, so don't know what's considered "standard" type ring size, but if you're in the smallest cog so much why not run a bigger chainring?

    Quote Originally Posted by NWS View Post
    ......I bought an 11-27 cassette plus individual cogs for the sizes that didn't come in the cassette. Last weekend I tried an 11-12-13-15-18-22 stack of cogs on my DH bike, just to get some experience with this idea. Worked just fine for lift-served stuff, but of course I spent most of my time on the 11t cog. I'm going to take it to a non-lift-served park next to see how I feel about pedaling around with a 1x6 setup.
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  83. #83
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    I also went from a 34t circular ring to a 36t elliptical up front. (I don't think an elliptical 38 would clear my chainguide.)

    I didn't have time to change cogs for a wider range, but the 11-22 setup worked out pretty well today.

    Also, I might be wrong about the Miche cogs having fewer ramps - I think I was looking at smaller Miche cogs and larger Shimano cogs, so not an apples-to-apples comparison. I'll take a closer look when I switch the cogs around.

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    I ran into a new problem. I made a new 40 tooth cog out of a flat chainring. The derailleur shifted to it from the 24 tooth cog and not the 30 tooth second largest cog. So it looks like 9 teeth shifting is the maximum shift with a 9 cog spacing. Shimano sells megarange freewheels with a 10 tooth jump with a 7 cog spacing.
    "Dish is illogical." Spoke of Vulcan.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by NWS View Post
    I didn't have time to change cogs for a wider range, but the 11-22 setup worked out pretty well today.

    Also, I might be wrong about the Miche cogs having fewer ramps - I think I was looking at smaller Miche cogs and larger Shimano cogs, so not an apples-to-apples comparison. I'll take a closer look when I switch the cogs around.
    I'm running 11 12 15 18 22 26 now, and with a bit more adjustment it is shifting just fine.

  86. #86
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    Does anyone have actual measurements of the usable cassette area of various singlespeed hubs? I saw a picture of a Hope showing 24mm length, but I have not been able to find anything else. Seems like the King is on the short side and the Hope is on the long side. Anyone have a hub handy they can measure? I'm especially interested in the Hadley and DT Swiss hubs.

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    How do I go about using a locking if I want to start on a 17t cog?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Does anyone have actual measurements of the usable cassette area of various singlespeed hubs? I saw a picture of a Hope showing 24mm length, but I have not been able to find anything else. Seems like the King is on the short side and the Hope is on the long side. Anyone have a hub handy they can measure? I'm especially interested in the Hadley and DT Swiss hubs.
    Well - here are some pics of my unbuild Project 321 SS hub. (Same as the I9 torch SS apparently) 6 gears from a Shimano 10s work.

    Not much help with the Hadley / DT question sorry. But the info may help someone else.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6 speed cassette on SS hub....Please post your setup-img_5196.jpg  

    6 speed cassette on SS hub....Please post your setup-img_5197.jpg  

    6 speed cassette on SS hub....Please post your setup-img_5198.jpg  


  89. #89
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    so shadow/clutch type derailleurs are officially no-go for any 1x6/1x7 conversions, correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    so shadow/clutch type derailleurs are officially no-go for any 1x6/1x7 conversions, correct?
    I'm not sure why you say that. As long as you match the cog spacing to the shifter and derailleur speeds you can use whatever you want. Over the winter I ran a Hope SS hub with 7 10 speed cogs and an SLX shadow/clutch derailleur and SLX 10 speed shifter and it worked great.

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    Reading through old threads, I saw multiple mentions of clutch type RDs not working, so I'm glad to hear that it can work!

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    Here is a thread about my 11-34 6-speed setup. It's not on an SS hub, but could be made to fit. I actually wanted to use an SS hub, but couldn't find a 150mm version.

    6-speed Custom Wide Range Cassette

  93. #93
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    If you are running Shimano, then it's as simple as buying a Goat Link to move the RD a bit off the cassette and get them to work properly with the 6 spd setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    Reading through old threads, I saw multiple mentions of clutch type RDs not working, so I'm glad to hear that it can work!
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead!

    Why not move this to drivetrain forum so people can find it.
    All barks have been rendered into english...

  95. #95
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    Picked up an XT 10sp setup from a buddy. I have an I9 (pre-torch) SS hub, fits 6 cogs fine (11t, removed 2nd cog, rest of the carrier). Seems like the jump from 11t to 15t is too large, so I think a 13t cog should suffice (I assume this is a lockring type, right?). I've been SS for so long I know little about shifty stuff...

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    Picked up an XT 10sp setup from a buddy. I have an I9 (pre-torch) SS hub, fits 6 cogs fine (11t, removed 2nd cog, rest of the carrier). Seems like the jump from 11t to 15t is too large, so I think a 13t cog should suffice (I assume this is a lockring type, right?). I've been SS for so long I know little about shifty stuff...
    Can also use 12t and 12t lockring to get closer to the jumps you prefer at that end of the cassette
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    If you are running Shimano, then it's as simple as buying a Goat Link to move the RD a bit off the cassette and get them to work properly with the 6 spd setup.
    What's a goat link?

  98. #98
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    Google is your friend https://www.google.com/search?q=goat...utf-8&oe=utf-8

    Quote Originally Posted by chrzis View Post
    What's a goat link?
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Ah. - got ya. Not applicable to me. How many people run a 42t on a SS hub?
    I'm aiming for 19-36t.

  100. #100
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    Trying to decide how nice I'm feeling today and if I should bother to explain why use the Goatlink for this application since you seem to know it all

    Quote Originally Posted by chrzis View Post
    Ah. - got ya. Not applicable to me. How many people run a 42t on a SS hub?
    I'm aiming for 19-36t.
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