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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by dills84 View Post
    My basis of comparison is the Trek Fuel EX 7. It weighs 30.5 pounds off the shelf and has a similar build kit. Its also the bike I almost bought before discovering the sortie.
    So you weighed both bikes on a digital scale and the Sortie was 34.5lbs and the Fuel was 30.5? That's surprises me. I know there's differences, and didn't deny that. But at the shop, I find it very rare that 2 bikes built up with similar components, and prices, to be that far apart.
    Bike Doctor



  2. #27
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    The Trek weight I found online... Someone had hung it from a scale in a store. I weighed my Sortie myself.

    Since then I've swapped the crank and drive train to a 1x9 with a few other tweaks and got the weight down to 31 even... Not terrible but still not ultra light.

  3. #28
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  4. #29
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    Looking at average prices for the Fuel EX7($2600), and the Sortie 1($2199).

    Yes, the builds are kinda close. But there are some differences for $400, and if the weights are accurate(meaning both bikes were weighed with pedals, same size frames, etc) That wouldn't surprise me that I dug a little deeper...

    Sortie 1 - Alivio cranks, cartridge bb, 32h wheels, Alivio shifters, base shimano hydros

    Fuel EX7 - Deore HT2 cranks, 28h wheels, Deore shifters, Deore brakes

    Doesn't sound like much, but it will all add up. And that's just the stuff that was obvious.

    If you want to compare apples to apples, get a Sortie 2 and weigh it. Components are almost identical. Except Sortie comes with XT rear. But has same cranks, brakes, etc. Avg price $2699. That's a little better comparison.
    Bike Doctor



  5. #30
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    It was worth it for me since I got the sortie 1 for $1750 brand new... I'll shave weight over time with component swaps. For now I love the bike!

  6. #31
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    That's awesome! Not saying the Sortie 1 isn't a great bike. I'm saying it's not really a fair weight comparison - Sortie 1 vs. Fuel ex7

    Plus, the extra cash you saved allows for more upgrades. And you've already dropped 3 lbs!
    Bike Doctor



  7. #32
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    Good job!

    Just unboxed and built my Sortie today. It's definitely a very sweet ride. I'll have to keep messing with the shocks, front and back, to dial in the feel I want to end up with, but all in all, I'm very impressed.

    The only defect so far is a very small click/drag on my front brake rotor. It was worse when I tried just setting the brakes up with the auto adjust method (loosening the brake, squeezing the lever so it centers itself on the rotor and then tightening it in place), but I readjusted the brakes by sight and now it's down to just the little bit of drag. The rotor looks/feels good, so I'll assume it's not critical. I forgot all about it when I was rolling around in the parking lot.

    I might also cut a couple inches off the seat post so it can drop all the way to the top of the seat tube. At 5'9", I definitely don't need the entire length of the current seat post.

    Stock pedals were OK, and I'm glad they were included, but I will probably end up swapping them for the SPDs on my old bike in short order.


    Just rolling around in the parking lot, I was blown away by the feel of the bike. I've ridden a friend's 29er and felt like I was up on stilts. The Sortie feels like it's low slung and seems to be extremely manageable and highly maneuverable. I do need to get used to the higher 29er balance point for wheelies/endos, but I'm sure that will come in time. On 2 wheels I almost feel like I'm back on a 26er until I roll over a curb without pulling up. Stoked to go ride tomorrow morning.

  8. #33
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    Awesome! I had a slight whisper of drag on my front rotor for the first ride. After I put about 10 miles on the bike, I went back and re-adjusted, and it's been perfect ever since.
    Bike Doctor



  9. #34
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    I've been able to put some miles on the bike over the past couple of weeks. Still loving it! The front disc brake rub is completely gone now. I've been messing around with the rear shock lately. Still feels a little soft even when it's on the "climb" setting. I've got it at about 175 psi as of last ride (I weigh 200, so might just take it all the way up to that). I also have found that the longer cranks (175mm) are great for climbs, but I have to be a lot more on-top of pedal placement when shooting through the singletrack downhills. I got bucked off once because I cornered in too tight on a switchback & got lazy with lifting the inside pedal.

    I just ended up with double flat tires after this last ride. Apparently I pissed off a large family of goat-heads with some Russian Olive buddies, because I pulled about 3-5 goat-heads out of each tire, and a couple of wicked 1-2" thorns out of the sidewalls of one of my back tire. Never even saw the offending flora, and I was 2 miles out when the rear tire went on me. Perfect opportunity to try for a ghetto tubeless conversion; gorilla tape and Stan's, using the valve stems from the old tubes. I'll let you know how it goes.

    I might be opting for the 1x9 as opposed to the 3x1 simply because of the higher potential to damage the front derailleur, especially if it were to be the only source of changing gears. We'll see.

  10. #35
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    So it felt like performing minor surgery, but I just converted my stock Sortie rims & tires to tubeless, ghetto style.
    2014 Diamondback Sortie 1... Legit bike?-stanscarnage.jpg
    I pulled the original rim strips, placed a single layer of 1" Gorilla Tape, cut the original presta valves off the massacred tubes and used a wrench to make sure they were tight against the tape/rims (the first one was leaking pretty bad the first time I got the tire to seat, and I had to do it all over again).
    Dropped some Stan's in the bottom of the tire and hooked up to my compressor. The way the tires and rims sit together, I'm fairly confident in saying that a floor pump is impossible, and CO2 pumps would be a waste of time. I wished that I had a bigger reservoir and higher pressure (my compressor tops out at 150 psi). I soaped up the edges of the tires and then locked the compressor open while I pinched and pulled around the rim trying to get the bead to lock in. I ended up using straps around the middle of the tires to help spread the beads open to either side of the rim, but it took probably an hour for each tire, with a good inflation followed by deflation with each one.

    As of now, they're holding air and feel pretty good at 20 psi. I'll need to still mess with that, but rolling around the street and hopping curbs was nice. I tried to get the tires to "burp" including riding half on/ half off the curbs, but the beads held. I'm riding some singletrack tomorrow (if there's still air in the tires in the morning), so I'm stoked to see how they perform.

    Stan's goop (Family sized): $25.00
    1"x 30' Gorilla Tape: $2.50
    Presta valves: Free
    Schrader adapter: $2.00
    Expired IV needles and syringes: Free

    I've got enough Stan's to last forever, and used about $6 worth today (including the spills), for a grand total of $10.50 to convert both tires. I will say that I had the bright idea of adding an ounce of Stan's AFTER I inflated the tires due to all the goop I spilled trying to get the tires to seat, so I used that big 2 oz syringe in the picture and an IM needle and just punctured the middle of the tire... I might have lost a little more Stan's at that point, at a rate of 30 psi... hmmm. Who knew physics applied to tubeless tires?
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  11. #36
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    I hope all that works out for you. I would be VERY cautious riding that set up. There's nothing wrong with having a ghetto tubeless set up as far as rigging your own valves, gorilla tape, etc.
    But you would not catch me riding non tubeless tires like that.
    Bike Doctor



  12. #37
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    Well, just made myself a front wheel taco... =/ The front hub and disc are in great shape, but I've got a nice little S-curve to the rim after missing a landing and eating dirt. Broke my helmet on the landing as well. Luckily my body cushioned the rest of the bike's fall, so no bent derailleur or anything. My front tire (currently running tubeless) held air for about 5 minutes after the crash, but had a break in the bead seal due to the new S design I was rocking on the rim.
    Probably a new rim in order, but the spokes and hub look good. Maybe now the wife will believe me when I tell her I need a new full-face helmet. =)

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by CannondaleF9 View Post
    Trek probably has a better warranty, dealer network, and customer service. Diamondback makes high-end bikes, but the company is not well known. Their prices are low, and their component specs are not the best as a result. Their mid range bikes still have low-end components. But they make cool bikes, like the Mason and the Mason FS, 29" wheeled 140mm travel bikes.
    But those bikes are not enough reason to buy a no-name brand just because. If you can, take the Diamondback on a test ride, if you like it, then buy it, it won't be a piece of crap.
    I have a diamondback and a trek( sortie 3 29, trek remedy 8) I also sling both brands and have had experience with both brands in warranty. Both have great service to the shop but I would say Diamondback edges trek out because they send parts asap most time without questions. The warranties are almost identical rear swing arm on full suspension are only covered for the first year. Trek stopped offering the lifetime on the their full suspension a couple of years back. It usto be they only would not warranty the session but now its across the board for all dualys. I think the main triangle is warrantied for 5 years on both.

    Oh and for what its worth I love both bikes but i ride the sortie way more since my local trails are XC. I got that sucker down to 29lbs with a single narrow and some swaps. This tires that come with the bike were anchors.

  14. #39
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    Here's my recipe for a nice 30.9lb Sortie 1 (got me a 2013 Sortie 1 9 months ago at PerformanceBike for a sweet deal too, about $1770 after taxes):

    1 - Ditch the WTB Wolves. They grip, but they're heavy.
    2 - Buy a pair of Forte Pisgah's from PerformanceBike and immediately shed 1.5lbs.
    3 - Go tubeless (which you already did).
    4 - Ditch the stock DB Stem and Handlebar.
    5 - Get an Easton EC70 685 handlebar (or whatever length you like for your type riding)
    and some other light, nice looking Stem (I got me a RaceFace RIDE 60mm).

    And that's pretty much my setup plus XT shifters, XT derraileurs front and rear and a 2x (ditched the 42t and dropped in a Shimano SAINT chainguard).

    My Sortie 1 came alive with this little bit of changes. Definitely a great ride, good job on your choice

    Only reason I'm selling my Sortie 1 now is because I'm jumping in on the 650b hype, my skills have greatly improved, and I'm ready to shred some downhills up in NC (I'm FL bound btw). Oh and my upgrade weapon of choice is of course, another DB ('15 Mission Pro) ;-)

  15. #40
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    Here is the most recent pic (XT rear is off, busted it on a fall, and XT FD is off, to sell the bike with SLX stocks):


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