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  1. #1
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    2011 Kona Big Kahuna versus 2012 Kona Big Kahuna

    I was looking to purchase at a 2012 Kona Big Kahuna for about $2200. While doing my research, I found a 2011 with an upgraded Qr20 Reba fork for about $600 less... My question to the community is this: Which is better value? The 2012 for $2200 or the 2011 at $1650? I really like the fact that the 2012 is a 2x10, but maybe I could convert the 2011?

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Here's a picture of the 2011

  3. #3
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    Through Axle

    The 2012 has a thru-axle on the front and back. I'm a large rider, 6'3" 260, so that could be an added benefit.

  4. #4
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    Value

    The main differences (front fork aside since the 2011 has been upgraded to a reba) are:

    Scandium/alloy frame on the 2012 vs 7005 aluminum on 2011 (slightly lighter but will soften over the years and be more compliant/less stiff)

    New avid rotors (HS1's are an upgrade over Cleansweeps)

    If I were you I'd get the 2011 and put new wheels on it with the money you saved. A stans crest 29er or Arch EX 29er wheelset (depending on your weight/terrain you ride) would drop a few pounds off that bike and make tubeless flawless.

    By the way good choice, rode the 2011 Kona unit last year built up 1x10 with a reba and have a 2012 Kona Satori on it's way this week. They're 29er geometry is top notch.

  5. #5
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    What do you think it'd cost to convert to a 1x10? Also, you don't think the thru-axle makes a difference versus the QR20?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyczerwonka View Post
    What do you think it'd cost to convert to a 1x10? Also, you don't think the thru-axle makes a difference versus the QR20?
    On paper it does. I have no idea. I'll be able to chime in when my Kona Satori with a 12x142 rear comes this week. I only make judgements like that when I personally have findings. I have seen a report somewhere stating that QR is just as stiff as a thru-axle but that was just some magazine stating that. I believe it was german.

    I wouldn't get caught up in the thru vs QR debate. If your bike has a thru-axle then great. If not, you don't NEED it. It won't make you a better rider.

    As far as going 1x10, I'd be more inclined to run 2x10 until your chainrings are worn. The reason I say this is mostly because Sram has a new chainring coming out next year that is designed to be used as a 1x setup without a chain tensioner. It has VERY tall teeth so the chain won't drop. So all you would need is the new chainring and a new rear derailleur (short cage) and shorten the chain

  7. #7
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    Just wondering on axle since I'm 6'3" 260lbs. In terms of 2x10, that'd be fine. Is that an easier conversion with the current setup?
    Last edited by andyczerwonka; 06-25-2012 at 05:05 PM.

  8. #8
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    Turns out the 2011 does have a 15mm thru-axle. I think the 2011 is the right buy. I will go ride it this Friday (it's three hours away) and see if it fits he as well as the 2012. The fork is a Reba RLT - I haven't tried that one before so I'm not sure how it performs related to the standard fork on the 2012 version.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by maximum.minimum View Post
    As far as going 1x10, I'd be more inclined to run 2x10 until your chainrings are worn. The reason I say this is mostly because Sram has a new chainring coming out next year that is designed to be used as a 1x setup without a chain tensioner. It has VERY tall teeth so the chain won't drop. So all you would need is the new chainring and a new rear derailleur (short cage) and shorten the chain
    I'll ride the 3x10 this year and maybe upgrade next year. I think the 2011 will suite me just fine.

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