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  1. #1
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    Possible way to slacken a bike by 1.5 degrees

    I think that replacing a Fox 36 27.5 160mm fork with Lyrik boost 29 / 27.5+ fork would increase axle to crown by 30 mm. With the same tire as before this should slacken my 67 degree head angle to 65.5. If the Lyrik was dual position I could keep my original head angle when climbing.

    Has anyone tried this?
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  2. #2
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    You could use offset bushings which will slacken your bike a degree.

    If you go with the fork option, I would make sure your fork offset is the same or else you may make the trail a little too funky.


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  3. #3
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    I'd look into bumping the travel on the Fox 36 up to 170mm plus an angle headset or offset bushings. This would easily get you 1.5 degrees and additional travel.

  4. #4
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    I've done 80mm to 120mm on a 26er HT; 140mm on a 27.5 HT frame built for a 120mm; 140mm to a 160mm on a 27.5 FS. All work fine. Gave me more slack for more aggressive riding. Gave me about 1 degree on the last two, and about 1.5 on the first.

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  5. #5
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    On the first HT above, I even put a 27.5 Sektor lower on a 26 Recon Silver to get more tire clearance and it did increase the axle to crown height since the axle dropouts​ were lower.

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  6. #6
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    They make headsets designed to do this. Bigger tire up front, smaller out back?

  7. #7
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    Everything except the headset will slacken the STA as well, which may or may not work for you.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    Everything except the headset will slacken the STA as well, which may or may not work for you.
    And of course raise the BB, by about 1/3 as much as you increase A2C. That 30mm will raise your BB by nearly half an inch, which may not fit with your handling goals.

    And they'll shift your weight distribution rearward even when off the saddle, which may make it harder to keep the front weighted in corners.

  9. #9
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    There is a website that will compute the angles and bb height with anglesets, and longer forks. With the right headset and fork length, you can keep the STA and bb height near stock.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  10. #10
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    http://bikegeo.muha.cc

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazarus2405 View Post
    And of course raise the BB, by about 1/3 as much as you increase A2C. That 30mm will raise your BB by nearly half an inch, which may not fit with your handling goals.

    And they'll shift your weight distribution rearward even when off the saddle, which may make it harder to keep the front weighted in corners.
    Thanks all for the advice. I think that I'll go with a slightly bigger front tire and the angleset for now. 170 mm fork with angleset on the calculator looks pretty sweet -- puts me another 20 mm behind the front tire with almost no other changes in seat tube and geometry.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikerdave View Post
    Thanks all for the advice. I think that I'll go with a slightly bigger front tire and the angleset for now. 170 mm fork with angleset on the calculator looks pretty sweet -- puts me another 20 mm behind the front tire with almost no other changes in seat tube and geometry.
    Replace the worn rear tire with front butcher 2.3, put butcher 2.6 (actual 2.5) on the front, and had local bike mechanic put in the Cane Creek Angleset with 1 degree cup. This has likely moved the head angle on my Fuji Auric from 67 to slightly under 66 degrees. I can really feel the difference -- the trail indication from the slight wheel flop / centering at slow speeds feels a lot like my old Bionicon in descent mode -- exactly the change I was looking for.

    My bike now has a more mainstream geometry for all-mountain riding at 66 degrees. The Angleset is expensive, but a lot cheaper than a new bike.
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