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  1. #1
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    New Superlight 650b conversion!

    Fox float RLC FIT
    XTR rear derailleur, trail brakes, rear shifter
    XTR crankset machined to 1x, brushed and clear Cerakoated
    Wolf Tooth 36t ring
    Syntace 760mm low riser
    Thomson stem and post
    Bontrager saddle
    Crest rims on I9 h torch hubs (pink!) with DT revolutions
    Kendall Karmas
    ESI grips

    23.5 lbs with pedals

    Very excited to ride once the rain finally stops!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Superlight 650b conversion!-image.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Nicely done.

  3. #3
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    New Superlight 650b conversion!

    Nice. Intend to do similar with mine when my Jeep is paid off in A couple months. Any mods needed for the rear to get clearance under compression?

  4. #4
    NedwannaB
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    That B super nice! It's a new model right??
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  5. #5
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    I think it's a 2012. It's missing the tapered headtube, that's why the frameset only cost me $550.00

    I put 20+ off-road miles on it Saturday, and 35+ yesterday in the mountains. It's a very fast bike. I've owned 2 Superlights in the past (4-5 years ago was the last) and have only ridden 29ers in the interim.

    I think I can get it to 23 lbs. without much trouble, much lighter than that will require some use of parts I don't think will hold up too well for an XC/endurance racing bike.

    No carbon on the bike minus the handlebar, which, at 760mm wide, isn't overly lightweight (>215 g).

    The biggest difference in this and the 29er hardtails I've been on is the way it steers, both at slow and high speeds. No more planning my turns well in advance to thread the needle and avoid understeer; this thing steers from the hips like a 26er. Consecutive, turns on fast, flowy sections of trail are so easy and fun it's amazing.

    In the air, it's still not a BMX bike but it is so much better than a 29er it's not funny. Very tossable.

    I'm sure at least part of the reason I'm enjoying the downhills more again is the fact that I have rear suspension for the first time in years, but I think the wheelsize is a big part, too.

    Being able to (finally!) get the bars as low as I'd like to weight the front wheel for high-speed cornering (and still use a riser) is tremendous.

    BB height feels spot on at 12.8" or thereabouts. Could even be a little higher and be OK.

    All in all, a very successful experiment so far and one I'm excited to try in a race.

    Oh, and the Wolf Tooth (XX1-type) chainring is every bit as advertised. No drops even when I tried to make it come off. Drivetrain is perfectly silent (eerily so). Amazing advancement; wish it had been around 5 years ago when I first switched to 1x drivetrains.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryp View Post
    Nice. Intend to do similar with mine when my Jeep is paid off in A couple months. Any mods needed for the rear to get clearance under compression?
    None yet, though I think I hit the cable stop slightly at one point yesterday with the rear tire. Intend to file/dremel the stop off ASAP as I will never use a front derailleur again (on any MTB).

  7. #7
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    I think it's a 2012. It's missing the tapered headtube, that's why the frameset only cost me $550.00

    I put 20+ off-road miles on it Saturday, and 35+ yesterday in the mountains. It's a very fast bike. I've owned 2 Superlights in the past (4-5 years ago was the last) and have only ridden 29ers in the interim.

    I think I can get it to 23 lbs. without much trouble, much lighter than that will require some use of parts I don't think will hold up too well for an XC/endurance racing bike.

    No carbon on the bike minus the handlebar, which, at 760mm wide, isn't overly lightweight (>215 g).

    The biggest difference in this and the 29er hardtails I've been on is the way it steers, both at slow and high speeds. No more planning my turns well in advance to thread the needle and avoid understeer; this thing steers from the hips like a 26er. Consecutive, turns on fast, flowy sections of trail are so easy and fun it's amazing.

    In the air, it's still not a BMX bike but it is so much better than a 29er it's not funny. Very tossable.

    I'm sure at least part of the reason I'm enjoying the downhills more again is the fact that I have rear suspension for the first time in years, but I think the wheelsize is a big part, too.

    Being able to (finally!) get the bars as low as I'd like to weight the front wheel for high-speed cornering (and still use a riser) is tremendous.

    BB height feels spot on at 12.8" or thereabouts. Could even be a little higher and be OK.

    All in all, a very successful experiment so far and one I'm excited to try in a race.

    Oh, and the Wolf Tooth (XX1-type) chainring is every bit as advertised. No drops even when I tried to make it come off. Drivetrain is perfectly silent (eerily so). Amazing advancement; wish it had been around 5 years ago when I first switched to 1x drivetrains.
    Yeah ment new as in a '12. I don't think the SL 26 would have tapered. Nice that the conversion worked out so well. 23.5#'s is great! I was toying with getting a frame last year and building it up with my 650 wheels from another 26" experiment. Ended up with a Ventana El Bastardo frame but it's a bit more travel then need. Have 650 and 29r ht's too. I'm still fiddling with staying maybe a SL.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Yeah ment new as in a '12. I don't think the SL 26 would have tapered. Nice that the conversion worked out so well. 23.5#'s is great! I was toying with getting a frame last year and building it up with my 650 wheels from another 26" experiment. Ended up with a Ventana El Bastardo frame but it's a bit more travel then need. Have 650 and 29r ht's too. I'm still fiddling with staying maybe a SL.
    Actually, the SL26 is tapered HT for 2013. Not a big deal for me either way (certainly at the price I paid).

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    nice! the weight is awesome too.
    i just swapped tires to karma's and was really impressed with my first ride yesterday. but i was coming from nevegals. i'd have to say that i like them as much as the RR i had when i was running 26".
    yeti SB5c
    specialized epic comp carbon - 650b

  10. #10
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    Beautiful bike man. I had a 2004 Superlight that was 650b for the last half of its life. They really do rip. Brings back fond memories!

  11. #11
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    I sit corrected

    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    Actually, the SL26 is tapered HT for 2013. Not a big deal for me either way (certainly at the price I paid).
    Actually I assumed they wouldn't go to the hassle of switching to tapered, since it is a 26r after all. But while picking up my bike up at the shop today I looked a little closer at the '13 SL26 and there it was! I just never paid much attention to them since I didn't want to get any wild ideas about building one up .....
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FNFAL View Post
    Beautiful bike man. I had a 2004 Superlight that was 650b for the last half of its life. They really do rip. Brings back fond memories!
    I remember it before you got the Blur XCc, I don't recall if you get your SL down to that weight.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  13. #13
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    this thread has inspired me to convert my SL to 650B... I have a 150 mm Fox 32 RLC 2010, 15mm TA, will lower it for the SL, what works best for a 650B? 120 mm or 130 mm. Any input will help. Thanks

  14. #14
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    120-130mm might jack the bottom bracket up a little high... I am at 12.8" with a 100mm.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    this thread has inspired me to convert my SL to 650B... I have a 150 mm Fox 32 RLC 2010, 15mm TA, will lower it for the SL, what works best for a 650B? 120 mm or 130 mm. Any input will help. Thanks
    Agree with tommy although several builds I've seen run 120's. So unless you had the 150 on the SL already, which is way over their travel/HA as it is for design, you'll notice a bigger change with ctr of gravity with the 650's!!

    I know when I converted a KHS XCT 140mm travel frame over to 650 the bb ended up around 13.75" with only a 130 fork on it. That in combination of it being a small frame wheelbase left it very twitchy descending at speed. Good ground clearence for tight tecky up down trails.
    Last edited by JMac47; 06-14-2013 at 02:47 PM. Reason: typo
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    120-130mm might jack the bottom bracket up a little high... I am at 12.8" with a 100mm.
    And dayam you tommyrod for posting that sweet build pic! Now with that build weight of yours(I have very similar components...) you got me
    rethinking picking up one of those frames and build a short guys XC version of a fs 29r which is really what I was after!
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    And dayam you tommyrod for posting that sweet build pic! Now with that build weight of yours(I have very similar components...) you got me
    rethinking picking up one of those frames and build a short guys XC version of a fs 29r which is really what I was after!
    I hate to say it, but it's about to drop another ~3/4 lb or so

  18. #18
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    We wait with BB (baited breath....)
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Agree with tommy although several builds I've seen run 120's. So unless you had the 150 on the SL already, which is way over their travel/HA as it is for design, you'll notice a bigger change with ctr of gravity with the 650's!!

    I know when I converted a KHS XCT 140mm travel frame over to 650 the bb ended up around 13.75" with only a 130 fork on it. That in combination of it being a small frame wheelbase left it very twitchy descending at speed. Good ground clearence for tight tecky up down trails.
    Nope it set to 130mm as of the moment still a 26 er, I already got the WTB 650 i23s and spokes to go will lace it on XT hubs. I used to run it with a 120 mm F series RLC, no compliants, my 150 RLC float 15mm TA was a replacement to get the the added stiffness of a thru axle fork, i saw in a post here before of a 650b converted SL on 130 mm travel so i brought it down to 130mm. I will be using Nevegals and would be running a 2x10 set up, how much mm spacers should I put on the rear shocks? where did you get the Karma's? i need one for the rear to keep the rolling resistance down... again thanks, will update you guys once I a chance t swap out the wheels... here's a picture of it at 130mm and still a 26'er... thanks guys!

    New Superlight 650b conversion!-dsc_0547.jpg

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    how much mm spacers should I put on the rear shocks? where did you get the Karma's?
    Kenda | Brand | Discounted Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes and Cycling Gear at PricePoint.com

    Not sure about thickness of shims to get clearance depends on your tires and rr deraillure. But lots of "how to's" in forum. Search "advanced search" while in 650 forum for "Superlight shimming shock" refine by clicking under "posts", not threads, and you should get right to the topic. Have not done it but seems simple enuff, or I know PUSH Ind or other shock mod companies do it for a nominal fee (~$25) with a shock performance overhaul.

    Off record, you'll probably get a better ride on the 650 conversion with fork set at 120 unless you're use to the change in geo handling with a taller bb height.
    You can adjust some of that out by sliding seat forward abit and/or lowering bars by either flip stem (if~5*) or pull out stack spacers under stem if you have them. Again depends on your riding style and terrain.

    I have 2.1 Maxxis CrossMarx and they seem to be a good tight fit need tire as well.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  21. #21
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    Just finished up my 650b Superlight. Frame looks familiar, but mine weighs a bit more than 23 pounds (thank you wheelset, tires, fork, handlebar, stem, crankset, and seatpost)! By the way, I highly recommend the new Grip Shift to anybody running a 1x9/10/11. Much easier to get to the gear you need!

    New Superlight 650b conversion!-6.20.2013-small.jpg

  22. #22
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    Nice. What crank/ring/cassette are you running on it?

    Thanks in advance.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Nice. What crank/ring/cassette are you running on it?

    Thanks in advance.
    Deore crank/cassette (12-36 10-speed) and RaceFace single ring (32t). I wouldn't mind upgrading the crank and cassette, as I could save a fair amount of weight there.

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    thanks JMac47... will check these suggestions out...

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker24 View Post
    Deore crank/cassette (12-36 10-speed) and RaceFace single ring (32t). I wouldn't mind upgrading the crank and cassette, as I could save a fair amount of weight there.
    Got it. I noticed you didn't have a chain guide. Is that a clutch type rr der or are you using a tall tooth front ring?
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Got it. I noticed you didn't have a chain guide. Is that a clutch type rr der or are you using a tall tooth front ring?
    It's a Type 2 rear derailleur. I thought I'd give it a try without the guide, but I ended up putting on a MRP 1x chainguide after dropping the chain a couple of times on the first ride. It was interesting, because I didn't drop the chain when pedaling or riding over rough terrain. I dropped the chain when I either stopped or started from a standstill.

  27. #27
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    Subtle backspin probably got it off line just enuff. I'm still running 9spd so no clutch type available. Using a similar upper guide (e13 xcx seat tube mount) and xt shadow der on my ht. Moved the setup over to my fs and added a C-Guide lower chain retainer mounted on chain stays. Quiets things down but not quite dialed as it had to be mounted pretty far back on stay from front ring limiting the wrap up around on the bottom of ring. Perfect fix on all these 1x setups is the XX1 but not in budget at this time.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  28. #28
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    First race this past Saturday - very rooty terrain - zero chain drops (or even chain noise). 6-7 rides on the Wolf Tooth ring and I am so pissed this didn't come out 5 years ago It would have saved a lot of people a lot of headaches. Best $80 I ever spent on drivetrain parts.

    I rode it with the clutch turned off one ride and same result - quiet and no drops. Fantastic.

  29. #29
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    Good to know. Cassette wise you're still using conventional, not the XX1 right? I'm pondering the Wolf Tooth but with 9spd and no clutch der probably wouldn't be worth it for me.

    JMac (still here holding onto the ledge running 9spd...)
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  30. #30
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    Correct. With this setup I have zero need for XX1 (as I like the XTR shifting, and don't need a 42t bailout for any reason). Standard XTR 11-36 cassette.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    Correct. With this setup I have zero need for XX1 (as I like the XTR shifting, and don't need a 42t bailout for any reason). Standard XTR 11-36 cassette.
    Agreed. I have xtr on 2 bikes aswell. Have the 12/36 LX cassette (heavy...ugh...) on the fs trail bike. I had some big("ger" to me) high altitude climbs both days over the weekend(~12 mi/5K and ~28mi/7k respectfully) and using this bike the 32x36 was a lot of work. If I can get a crank that I can drop to a 30 or 28t ring there'd be no complaints with 36 big cassette cog. Love the 1x. I'm a light rider and just don't wear out parts that much to justify moving to 10spd. Yet.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    I hate to say it, but it's about to drop another ~3/4 lb or so
    So where's that weight loss you were bragging about??
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  33. #33
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    New Superlight 650b conversion!-img_0562.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    So where's that weight loss you were bragging about??
    More like 1/2 lb, it turns out. Here's a pic:

    SDG Carbon seatpost
    SDG I-Fly I-Beam saddle
    Ritchey WCS stem
    Candy 3 pedals

    In my first race on it 10 days ago, 3rd place in Pro/Elite Men in the Monster Energy Pedal to the People Tour XC race. The bike was perfect.

    And, as it turns out, the 650b experiment was so successful... that I'm going to sell the frame and fork.

    I love the ride and the handling... so much that I am going to buy a Blur XC Carbon to convert as my new race bike. A little lighter weight (and the neon green paintjob). If there was a carbon version of the Superlight, I'd buy that instead.

    Look for a classified ad later this evening, I'll be selling frame and fork for a bit of a loss (3 weeks of riding on both).

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  35. #35
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    Saw that

    If I had my way Bxc is frame I'd buy. Too many kids still at home pulling at my wallet tho. I was getting ready to have lbs order up a sale SL frame for me but daughter got in wreck and totaled my truck just before weekend. In the beginning stages of finding out about when replacement, or not, will be. Frame will have to wait.

    Good job on your racing.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

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    get the m985 xtr double crank set 28/40T buy the 30T from wolf tooth as well and u r sweet to go. Yeah they are expensive but they work soooooooooo well. I had experimental prototype make me a custom 27T 88bcd. for big hills

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by conrad View Post
    get the m985 xtr double crank set 28/40T buy the 30T from wolf tooth as well and u r sweet to go. Yeah they are expensive but they work soooooooooo well. I had experimental prototype make me a custom 27T 88bcd. for big hills
    Sounds like a nice setup. Any pix? Like I said, still on 9spd so limited on getting the big XX1 pie plate cassette. I've heard some have used one to get the 40t granny with a 1x10spd der setup and set limits on not dropping to the 10t small cog.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    If there was a carbon version of the Superlight, I'd buy that instead.
    Missed this earlier. Is this thinking it would be lighter in carbon than the BXc or that it's a single pivot design? I've seen that the alum SL29 is ~1# lighter than an alum TB and just curious if this is your take on what the weight differences would be on the carbon SL to carbon Blur.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

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    Tommyrod,
    I bought the Nickel and converted to 650b too. Love the bike, way more flickable, but I have one problem with it. I came from riding a 29er for the last 4 seasons. I can't
    seem to be able to keep the front end tracking right. I am all over the place. I turn in too early on corners, but I am getting better at it. I swapped over my old stem and bars so the cockpit is the same. It's 1/2 inch shorter than my old bike...should I lower the bars a touch? get wider bars? I fell off a bridge 4th of July on a trail I ride nearly every week! (I am okay).
    Anyone have suggestions?

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by cb76 View Post
    Tommyrod,
    I bought the Nickel and converted to 650b too. Love the bike, way more flickable, but I have one problem with it. I came from riding a 29er for the last 4 seasons. I can't
    seem to be able to keep the front end tracking right. I am all over the place. I turn in too early on corners, but I am getting better at it. I swapped over my old stem and bars so the cockpit is the same. It's 1/2 inch shorter than my old bike...should I lower the bars a touch? get wider bars? I fell off a bridge 4th of July on a trail I ride nearly every week! (I am okay).
    Anyone have suggestions?
    Find a way to get more weight over the front - whether a longer stem, lower front end, moving the saddle forward, etc. Also - it will turn faster than a 29er, which is a good thing. Steer with small weight shifts and with your hips. Less turning of the bars needed than with a 29er.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Missed this earlier. Is this thinking it would be lighter in carbon than the BXc or that it's a single pivot design? I've seen that the alum SL29 is ~1# lighter than an alum TB and just curious if this is your take on what the weight differences would be on the carbon SL to carbon Blur.
    Same idea you had. With a thru-axle rear and carbon frame, the SL would be a Blur-beater, and a lot simpler.

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    Yeah, It's the turning that is really throwing me, literally. would a wider bar help? It would move me forward and my inputs that are 29er calibrated would become slightly muted, no?

  43. #43
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    I run a 760mm bar for XC. Works for me

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    New question here. building a 2013 Super light 650b

    Hello Guys. I am new to the Forum. I got a 2013 Super light frame (tapered Head Tube ) I am trying to do the conversion into 650b. The frame is brand new so it has not been built at all. I've been reading some of the forums but I have some questions and since all of you have already gone through this hassle, I am hoping you can share some of your knowledge.

    1. Shock Shimming. Is it absolutely necessary to shim the shock? I am a heavy guy (200lbs) I currently ride a 29er with 2.2 tires. I am thinking on keep a 2.2 tire in this build.

    2. Shock. Since I only have the frame, I need to buy a shock. I have found a couple of preowned FOX shocks in really good condition. First option is a 2014 130mm travel 650b fork. This is already a 650b fork that shouldn't have the clearance problem. My concern is that this might raise the bike BB height.
    Second option is a 26" Fox RL fork with 130mm travel.

    3. Front derailur clamp. I do need the front derailer. I am not that strong If I set up the bike as 650b, will I have to remove the clamp?

    Your input is really valuable and much appreciated.

    Thanks

  45. #45
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    1. Some people think you have to shim the shock "just in case", but I've run mine with no shims and have had no problem with clearance.

    2. Get a Fox front fork, they clear most any 650b front tire. Some Rockshox forks do not, so I wouldn't take a chance. 130mm may be pushing it with the SL, take a look around and see if you can get a 120mm instead.

    3. Front derailleurs work the same regardless of tire size... install it like you would any other bike.

  46. #46
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    Steve.
    thanks so much on your quick reply. I will see if I can get a 120mm, or maybe go safe with a 100mm.
    I am definitely getting a Fox fork. I personally do not like Rockshox.
    So would you recommend getting a 650b specific fork or just get a regular 26" Fox fork that will have enough clearance with the tire.
    Are you running 120mm or 100mm in your SL?

  47. #47
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    Y'all have me curious now. I read earlier in the thread some converted a 2004 SL. I have a 2003 that I passed down to my wife and rarely ever gets ridden. I do have 2007ish RS Reba 100 on the front. I am wondering if I could convert this with relative ease?

    I also have a 2010 BLT Al with a Float 140. If I could convert either of these I would be stoked.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by weasy View Post
    Y'all have me curious now. I read earlier in the thread some converted a 2004 SL. I have a 2003 that I passed down to my wife and rarely ever gets ridden. I do have 2007ish RS Reba 100 on the front. I am wondering if I could convert this with relative ease?

    I also have a 2010 BLT Al with a Float 140. If I could convert either of these I would be stoked.
    Pretty sure the Reba won't work. I've seen someone with a 650 on a SID but IIRC was a small tire and tight crown clearance in picture. Either frame and the FOX fork will work. As ssmokan posted above, shock mod's needed by some, on some year frames, not all. Depends on rider weight and tyre size too. **Which btw does come into play with some front der types. Some have a longer cage which can have clearance issues with some knobbier tyres.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  49. #49
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    Aburgson- I've only run 26" forks so I can't comment... and I don't know how a 27.5"-specific fork would affect the geo on a SL. It may make the front end too tall.

    Weasy- I have a converted 2012 Blur LT aluminum with the Fox 150mm front fork, and I absolutely love it. No clearance issues and it rides amazing. You'll be blown away by how awesome it is.

  50. #50
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    I have just about convinced myself that I will convert my BLT2. Will most likely order up some BWW wheels. I have ridden Fire XC Pro tires forever and have had my eye on the Pacentis. I wonder when the official Panaracer version will hit the market.

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