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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxbat View Post
    Since this seems to be the de-factor Mondraker hangout here on MTBR so you'll have to excuse cross forum nature of the question:

    Has anyone ridden a Crafty yet? I ask as there are no reviews yet but they have been on sale for a little while. Following the short travel yet aggressive geometry 29'er trend, I'm curious to see how the forward geometry approach works with the 29'er wheelsize. The size medium with a 464mm reach has a 1205m wheelbase which looks looooong on paper (the BMC Trailfox in size large is 1200 by comparison) but I assume Mondraker did their homework on this one.
    Just posted a topic in 29er forum on the Crafty with a vid.

  2. #402
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    Hey Maverick,

    Yes agreed, the Carbon Summun looks like summthing for sure. They have done a very nice job on that.

    Hey Mav, are we all still okay for March mate? Just trying to make contact with you, especial now that we are in 2015.

    Cheers

    W

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bristecom View Post
    Give link to said thread. And pics please! [/QUOTE

    ....in a few days time, need to get some shots.
    Congrats on the new bike...I'm going to second the call for pics!
    Last edited by Foxbat; 01-05-2015 at 05:08 PM.

  4. #404
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  5. #405
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    Hey guys,

    I'm thinking about getting a foxy, but have heard the bearing life is not that great. Anyone got experience of this? I am in the U.K and ride in mud for most of the year

  6. #406
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    hi guys, im want to buy foxy but dont know about zero suspension system, for climbing which one is better zero suspension or maestro? thanks for sharing

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by pujetta View Post
    hi guys, im want to buy foxy but dont know about zero suspension system, for climbing which one is better zero suspension or maestro? thanks for sharing
    I've got zero suspension and I find it climbs really well on smooth terrain...not had the chance to try yet on techy climbs since it's fairly new to me. Not sure how it compares.

  8. #408
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by pujetta View Post
    hi guys, im want to buy foxy but dont know about zero suspension system, for climbing which one is better zero suspension or maestro? thanks for sharing
    My understanding is that the foxy (and dune) uses standardised 6900 series bearings (x6) and 6000 series bearings (x2).

    So if oem bearings wear you can replace with other quality bearings (eg enduro) using same specs.

    So bearing life shouldn't be the deciding factor in buying the foxy as this is a wear item that can be pressed out and replaced.

    I have read that the 2015 models come with better quality bearings, though don't know what.

    This is my understanding, can someone confirm or clarify?

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgfjd12 View Post
    My pump is not right either so I set the shock by feeling. With a smooth bump compliance, the shock was too deep into the travel, making the ride harsh after successive fast bumps. Adding the volume reducer for my weight and aggressive ride style, I am extremely happy with the Fox CTD Shock. Unless I start riding downhill parks more than once a year, the bike is perfect for my trails.
    Finally pulled the shock off to clean & check bearings. On pulling apart I found it already had a spacer installed, interestingly also had a custom tune sticker with code #.

  10. #410
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    hi guys, first of all sorry my bad english. I leave you some pics of my Foxy XR 2014 custom built from Spain (interestingly the company is just 30 km from my house).

    Pike 150mm, RShox monarch plus, Ztr arch ex wheels with Hope pro evo 2 & DT240 hubs, On off carbon handlebar, on off stoic 30mm stem, XT brakes and transmission...


    I've had a lot of bikes in the latest years (blur lt2, mondraker dune 2010 & 2011, stumpjumper 2010, mondraker foxy 2013, tallboy LT, ibis mojo hd and now this), and this foxy is the best bike I've ever ride. It's super versatile, climbs and pedals like most a 100-120mm bikes, and when the trail goes down it's very capable. One bike for do everything. here there are a lot of foxys & dunes, but many people prefer other brands like specialized, trek or santa cruz, but in my opinion this foxy is better than them all in operation.

    I'll follow the thread and will comment more things

    I put too a pic of a foxy carbon (not mine, belongs to a friend)

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0597.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0659.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0631.jpg
    Last edited by jfstone; 01-12-2015 at 12:06 PM.

  11. #411
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    and now a few pics in action

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-jf.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0819.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_08182.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0771.jpg

  12. #412
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    Fab

    Any news on the carbon Dune?

  13. #413
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    and finally some pics last summer in a visit to the company to test the new foxy carbon

    best regards

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0244.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0246.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0252.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-dsc_0253.jpg

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-img-20140813-wa0042.jpg

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    Fab

    Any news on the carbon Dune?
    in progress jejejeje, I think in a few months will be presented

  15. #415
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    stoney, nice pics, keep them coming.

    Since your near the factory can you go and steal a Dune carbon

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by kudos100 View Post
    Hey guys,

    I'm thinking about getting a foxy, but have heard the bearing life is not that great. Anyone got experience of this? I am in the U.K and ride in mud for most of the year
    I cannot comment on bearings, as I only have my Foxy 2014 for a few months now and I'm also living in Greece where mud is not realy an issue. But generaly OEM built Mondraker bikes are not a very good value for money in terms of price/quality of parts installed. I got a base model on a cracking deal and then swaped practically everything but the frame. But for an asking price of 2500eur I find it really poor that the OEM build had elixir1 brakes, x5 shifters, non clutch long cage deraullier, heavy x5 casette, 1 1/8 fork in a tapered headtube with an adapter that weighted a ton but most shockingly a nasty free ball bearing headset that started leaking rusty water after few washes. So, I guess you pay for the brilliant frame which trully is a gem. My general impression is that Mondraker as a company tries to save every penny with cheap oem parts. So if enyone buys a frame only for 2000-2500eur my suggestion would be to invest a 50eur more for a quality set of replacement bearings and have a piece of mind. My 5 cents...

  17. #417
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by branemb View Post
    I cannot comment on bearings, as I only have my Foxy 2014 for a few months now and I'm also living in Greece where mud is not realy an issue. But generaly OEM built Mondraker bikes are not a very good value for money in terms of price/quality of parts installed. I got a base model on a cracking deal and then swaped practically everything but the frame. But for an asking price of 2500eur I find it really poor that the OEM build had elixir1 brakes, x5 shifters, non clutch long cage deraullier, heavy x5 casette, 1 1/8 fork in a tapered headtube with an adapter that weighted a ton but most shockingly a nasty free ball bearing headset that started leaking rusty water after few washes. So, I guess you pay for the brilliant frame which trully is a gem. My general impression is that Mondraker as a company tries to save every penny with cheap oem parts. So if enyone buys a frame only for 2000-2500eur my suggestion would be to invest a 50eur more for a quality set of replacement bearings and have a piece of mind. My 5 cents...
    Yeah free ball bearing headsets today are unacceptable.

    However 2015 alloy frames now come with FSA sealed bearing headsets, not the 2014 onoff free bearing headsets.

    My 2015 alloy frame has sealed headset

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfstone View Post
    and now a few pics in action

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ...Snip...
    Love those trails with all the gnarly rocks!

  19. #419
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    Anybody else getting tyre buzz on their seat tube? I was surprised by this since I'm running 26 at the back at the moment.

  20. #420
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    Re: Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    It's sad but the relation price/quality of the components it's too bad in the major part of brands, you only have to see specialized, trek, etc...

    Maybe giant, cube and a few more are the exceptions

    But the good new is that this has easy solution

    If I could fly...


  21. #421
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    Re: Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by Foxbat View Post
    Love those trails with all the gnarly rocks!
    Thanks, I really love too

  22. #422
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    I bought the Mondraker Foxy Carbon R.
    I switched the fork for a Pike 160mm. I added one token, and I set the fork with 25% sag. The original Fox fork, the damper was too weak for my weight.

    I modified the shock by adding the biggest spacer and setting the sag at 30%. The original spacer was too linear for my weight.
    I weight 200 lbs with equipment. The bike rides like a dream now. Waiting for some wide carbon rims now.
    Last edited by mgfjd12; 01-21-2015 at 12:22 PM.

  23. #423
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    Did adding the token make a big difference?

    thanks,

    dave

  24. #424
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    I think it does for heavier or aggressive riders. More progression added to the shock and the fork for better middle control. Otherwise, it feels too wallow. For lighter guys it doesn't, it will feel too stiff.

    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    Did adding the token make a big difference?

    thanks,

    dave

  25. #425
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    I might do that. I am about 205 and I ride my bikes very stiff. the Float I had on my other bike was not very good and it felt like I had to pump it up to the max or I would go through the travel too quickly.

  26. #426
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    I might do that. I am about 205 and I ride my bikes very stiff. the Float I had on my other bike was not very good and it felt like I had to pump it up to the max or I would go through the travel too quickly.
    If you are 205 you definitely need to do that. You will be happy. I had the same problem before adding the token to the shock.

  27. #427
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    my weight is similar (88 kgs/200 lbs with clothes, helmet, etc...) and everybody recommends me to put a token in the pike. But it works so well than I continue without tokens. I take whole travel but don`t have problems with stoppers

    The shock is a monarch plus that works perfectly, the change from fox has been incredible.

  28. #428
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    Hi all,

    I've had my 2014 Foxy XR for 6 months and so far I love it. Already upgraded the forks to Pikes and just ordered a Monarch Plus RC3 with Debonair from Jenson as per the link below:

    Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3 With Debonair > Components > Rear Shocks > Shock Bodies | Jenson USA

    Now it hasn't arrived yet but I was just reading through this thread and saw others mention that the shock has to be a "low" tune for the Foxy. I didn't even know this was an option and there was no such option when I ordered mine.

    So.... any idea what tune it's likely to be off the shelf?

    And, if it's not already low is it straightforward to change with some sort of kit?

    How badly would it affect the performance if it was say medium?

    I am 74Kg, in case that's relevant.

    Thanks in advance....

    Al.

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Now it hasn't arrived yet but I was just reading through this thread and saw others mention that the shock has to be a "low" tune for the Foxy. I didn't even know this was an option and there was no such option when I ordered mine.

    So.... any idea what tune it's likely to be off the shelf?

    The stock tune for the MP+ is M/M. I rebuilt my Monarch+ to L/L this fall, and it was quite straightforward, provided possession of the right tools, schraeder adapter for the IFP chamber, and a vice with aluminum soft jaws.

    See one of my earlier post on this issue, in this thread.

    The remaining thing is to figure out how many volume spacers I need in the positive chamber on the MP+. There is a volume spacer in the L/L tuned CTD which comes with the frame.

    Theoretically, the stock M/M tube will make the ride somewhat harder in the beginning of the stroke, at least, but will not need so many volume spacer bands to avoid bottoming out. I dont't ride hard, so i think I'll be fine with the low tune. I haven't used the Foxy much after rebuild.


    I did cut of 3 mm off the blue LC lever, to avoid having it crash into the frame while in the 'M' position.
    Last edited by OysteinS; 01-22-2015 at 06:04 AM.

  30. #430
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by jfstone View Post
    my weight is similar (88 kgs/200 lbs with clothes, helmet, etc...) and everybody recommends me to put a token in the pike. But it works so well than I continue without tokens. I take whole travel but don`t have problems with stoppers

    The shock is a monarch plus that works perfectly, the change from fox has been incredible.
    What sag do you run in your pike? With the token I run 25% or a little higher. Without the token 20% or less.
    The float shock with the biggest token, I run 30% as recommended. With the stock token I was running about 17%.

  31. #431
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    The shock tune recommended to the foxy is M, as Oysteins says

    I think in the pike I run around 20-25%, I don't know exactly because I prefer to guide by my sensations. Around 20-25%, I think

    Maybe with 1 token I would like more, but at the moment I'll stay it without tokens jejejeje

  32. #432
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-10406717_10152663485368526_7479337063002206105_n.jpg

  33. #433
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by jfstone View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wow looks gorgeous.... Just want to pick one up and take

    Do you work for mondraker?

  34. #434
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    Re: Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    noo, just pay attention at their Facebook

  35. #435
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    Thanks for the replies.

    Quote Originally Posted by jfstone View Post
    The shock tune recommended to the foxy is M, as Oysteins says
    I'm not sure that what Oysteins said, or I'm misunderstanding. He said the stock tune for the Monarch was M/M, i.e. off the shelf.

    The preferred tune for the Foxy is L/L. Is this correct?

    I've been googling all morning (instead of working) try to find information on this, I'm not very knowledgeable on the subject so bear with me.

    How do you know what sort a tune a particular bike requires? Is it based on the leverage ratio? I've been trying to find the specs for the foxy but can't.

    Also, how would you know when riding that it isn't correct? I'd guess that having the sag set to 30% (Mondrakers recommendation) that you don't use all of the travel even on big hits. Is this correct?


    To change from M/M to L/L is it just a case of removing some shims? Are there instructions somewhere for doing this? Or is it better to send to a suspension specialist. I've used Teken in Melbourne to have shocks rebuilt in the past.

    Thanks again for your patience.

  36. #436
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    Got my wheels today. Atomik carbon and Kappius hubs. Built by Dusty at hubsessed. Thank god I paid the majority of the price before the canadian dollar really tanked in the last 2 weeks. Just waiting for my cranks and then she will be done!Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-img_0777.jpgMondraker Foxy XR 27.5-img_0779.jpgMondraker Foxy XR 27.5-img_0782.jpg

  37. #437
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Thanks for the replies.



    I'm not sure that what Oysteins said, or I'm misunderstanding. He said the stock tune for the Monarch was M/M, i.e. off the shelf.

    The preferred tune for the Foxy is L/L. Is this correct?

    I've been googling all morning (instead of working) try to find information on this, I'm not very knowledgeable on the subject so bear with me.

    How do you know what sort a tune a particular bike requires? Is it based on the leverage ratio? I've been trying to find the specs for the foxy but can't.

    Also, how would you know when riding that it isn't correct? I'd guess that having the sag set to 30% (Mondrakers recommendation) that you don't use all of the travel even on big hits. Is this correct?


    To change from M/M to L/L is it just a case of removing some shims? Are there instructions somewhere for doing this? Or is it better to send to a suspension specialist. I've used Teken in Melbourne to have shocks rebuilt in the past.

    Thanks again for your patience.
    The correct sag is by feeling and riding style. For my weight and aggressive riding, I didn't like the mushy feeling and lack of support in the middle travel around 30%. Because I have a lot of experience, I knew the solution was to add a token or reduce the air volume. Problem solved.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Thanks for the replies.
    I'm not sure that what Oysteins said, or I'm misunderstanding. He said the stock tune for the Monarch was M/M, i.e. off the shelf.

    The preferred tune for the Foxy is L/L. Is this correct?
    The Fox CTD Shock that came with the 2014 XR frame has these parameters:

    2014, FLOAT-A P-S, CTD BV LV, Mondraker, Foxy, 7.875, 2.250, 0.4 Spacer, VTL, RTL, 200, 16
    This is what Mondraker responded when inquiring about the Monarch Plus:

    Regarding the tunning. We recommend with Monarch Light compression and Light rebound, Debonair canister make the system very linear, it would be recommend to use some spacer inside or switch the canister for the standard or HV one. This would also help to the clearance.
    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    How do you know what sort a tune a particular bike requires? Is it based on the leverage ratio? I've been trying to find the specs for the foxy but can't.
    Check:
    Mondraker Foxy 650B 2014 - Linkage Design

    Tuning depends on the average leverage ration, and the shape of the curve, and of course, your riding style and weight.


    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    To change from M/M to L/L is it just a case of removing some shims? Are there instructions somewhere for doing this? Or is it better to send to a suspension specialist. I've used Teken in Melbourne to have shocks rebuilt in the past.
    If you order the Tune assy:
    11.4118.023.052 Tune Assy, Monarch Plus Reb-Low/Comp-Low (CF-80lbs), LF-320, B1

    From SRAM, you get the piston and the shims in the right order, so its just a matter of taking off the original stack and replace with the new.

    See:
    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....4158_rev_a.pdf

    Not difficult, but it depends on experience with these things. If you are accustomed taking apart, and repairing things, no big deal. More or less similar to a full oil service of the Reverb seatpost.

  39. #439
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    I only can say that the monarch (normal) tune at the foxy mid season 2014 (which had monarch instead of fox) was M/M. I`ve had both (monarch and now monarch plus) with tune M, and the bike with them works perfectly

    maybe with L tune works better, but I don't think so

    I suppose that will go well with both

  40. #440
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    These days bikes with high antisquat typically run lower velocity tune. In my experience rt3 and especially RC3 give good climbing support but add extra feedback and bang a bit on the way down. That's why I always use a L vel tune in a monarch. It's a matter of balancing the increased feedback you get with high antisquat and allowing the max sensitivity out of your suspension on the way down.

    The Debonair air can however completely changes any tune monarch. the intial travel is very sensitive and dramatically reduces feedback on the way down. The downside is smooth climbing performance. You can't lock them out completely. I doubt you would need or if the debonair would suit the foxy but it would be a good balance with the RC3 which out of the box is m/m and has a very sluggish, harsh tune if your a lighter rider.

  41. #441
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    Thanks for the info OysteinS, this is a great thread. Lots of useful info.

    Have you decided how many volume reducers to put in yet?
    And is this based on rider weight?


    Cheers....

    Al.

  42. #442
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    Guys I need some help. I have the mondraker carbon r with a few changes. I added a pike 160 mm fork, and replace the brakes for some magura m7. My bike weighs 29.6 lbs. I would like to be able to loose another 3 lbs. I'm waiting for newer carbon wheel that should help with another 1 or 11/2 lbs. What other priority changes should I make?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  43. #443
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    Wheels.

    That would be the best bet. I went for a new crank(2015 xtr trail) which finally arrived today from Europe. It was nice for shimano to change the bolt pattern just enough that you have to run their crap rings, and 11 speed only.

    A race face carbon crank and some nice wheels (I know a guy) and it should reduce it big time. Do not forget that on the pinkbike review the complete carbon was not that light.

    dave

  44. #444
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    @depeche. I know I have a big opportunity with the wheels and cranks. I would like to do the single chainring to maximize the weight reduction but it's so nice to have a double. Thank you for your input.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  45. #445
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    I am going to run a bionicon 32 NW ring. I had a 30 NW race face on my santa cruz carbon LT last year and it was too much. Wheels are the big thing, even tubeless is almost 1 pound. I just got a custom set of Atomik carbons with Kampius hubs (look at the pictures) for under 1700 Canadian. If you do not live in this snowy wasteland then you can get a good dead. Anything else was almost 1000 more (I9). You have to remember that Enve and Reynolds are the only two brands in the states that actually make their rims in the states. 3200 for a set of kings with Enve is a joke. Besides, I have seen a set of road rims de - laminate.

    Considering a regular set of de-maxes or I9 go for over 1500 here I think I got a good deal.

    Let me know if you need a good wheel builder at a good price.

    dave

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Thanks for the info OysteinS, this is a great thread. Lots of useful info.

    Have you decided how many volume reducers to put in yet?
    And is this based on rider weight?
    Al.
    After the post from gvs_nz, and some thinking, I realized that I either should get the LV or XV canister for the Monarch. For now, I filled up the positive part of the chamber with all spacer bands I could fit in. Unfortunately, it will be a few months before I can ride the Foxy hard enough to find out.

    Perhaps I'll buy the XV canister, since I still could put in spacers, as opposed to the LV canister, which lacks the option for that. I assume that I could modify the debonair to even lower volume by placing some thin (enough) rubber sheet material, or wax, inside the bulge of the outer sleeve.

  47. #447
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    Hey guys, building a Foxy XR aluminium after reading through this thread a while back. After some feedback on installing a stealth routed dropper post. Seems to me the transition from where the cable would exit the frame in front of the bottom bracket to then run up the downtube would be a sharp bend.

    Can anyone comment on whether this is an issue or not?

  48. #448
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    Re: Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Another great day with rhe foxy, best bike I've ever ride. Incredible the way that it climbs and more incredible going down... Pike and monarch plus are fantastic
    Regards!

  49. #449
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    Re: Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Carbon or alu? What you prefer?

  50. #450
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    Foxy Carbon build porn

    XTR M9010 hubs. Sapim CX-Ray
    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-2015-02-02-00.28.42.jpg

    WTB i23 KOM rims. Gold ano nipples. Wheels weigh 1570g.
    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-2015-02-02-00.29.10.jpg

    Shimano Frankenbrake. Saint M820 calipers, Rear
    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-2015-02-02-00.29.52.jpg

    ... and Front on the obligatory 160mm Pike
    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-2015-02-02-00.41.49.jpg

    Levers are the XTR M988 Trail.
    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-20150201_235019.jpg

    Cranks are X01 with a 30T on the standard spider. Pedals are DMR Vault Brendogs.

    Rear mech is an XTR M986 Shadow Plus. Chain and cassette are XT, 11-36.

    Seatpost is a Reverb Stealth 150 which has had its Connectamajig removed and is just running a standard strain relief on the hose so that it fits deeper into the seat tube to give the correct seat height.

    Saddle is an old Specalized Phenom SL because I haven't found another saddle as shallow (clearance is an issue). Stem is 30mm On-Off. Bars are Easton Haven Carbon. Grips are Lizard Skins Bearclaw lock-ons with gold ano lock rings.

    Front tyre Bontrager XR4 Team Issue TLR 2.35. Rear tyre Specialized Purgatory Control 2.3. Both are tubeless with Gorilla tape/Caffe Latex sealant and Stans valves.

    Weight is 12.41kg with pedals. 27.3lb

  51. #451
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    Wow, please put a photo of full bike... High level!!

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgfjd12 View Post
    Guys I need some help. I have the mondraker carbon r with a few changes. I added a pike 160 mm fork, and replace the brakes for some magura m7. My bike weighs 29.6 lbs. I would like to be able to loose another 3 lbs. I'm waiting for newer carbon wheel that should help with another 1 or 11/2 lbs. What other priority changes should I make?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    wheels, 1x10 (or 1x11), light crankset, carbon handlebar, light saddle and pedals, and take care with the weight of the tyres

  53. #453
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    Anybody in the UK got a spare drop out nut and cone spacer I can buy/replace when Silverfish are back in stock? Size 142 x 12 common to Foxy and Dune.

    Cheers

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by OysteinS View Post
    After the post from gvs_nz, and some thinking, I realized that I either should get the LV or XV canister for the Monarch. For now, I filled up the positive part of the chamber with all spacer bands I could fit in. Unfortunately, it will be a few months before I can ride the Foxy hard enough to find out.

    Perhaps I'll buy the XV canister, since I still could put in spacers, as opposed to the LV canister, which lacks the option for that. I assume that I could modify the debonair to even lower volume by placing some thin (enough) rubber sheet material, or wax, inside the bulge of the outer sleeve.

    Hmmmm.... sounds like the Monarch with Debonair isn't idea for the foxy.
    I'd consider sending mine back and swapping for a standard Monarch but the only one that Jenson list is the Debonair.

    Can you even buy one without Debonair now? I haven't been able to find one.

    Seems a shame to buy one with the bigger air can and then negate that by having to have to fill it up with spacers, unless of course there are other benefits to the Debonair?

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Can you even buy one without Debonair now? I haven't been able to find one.

    Seems a shame to buy one with the bigger air can and then negate that by having to have to fill it up with spacers, unless of course there are other benefits to the Debonair?
    I assume that the standard or the XV version is more or less only available for OEM customers.

    The leverage curve for the Foxy is regressive at the end of travel, to compensate for a smaller air canister, and when using the larger can, it will bottom out more harshly than intended, losing the final part of support at the end of the travel.

    If I had been more awake earlier, I would have put more consideration into the Vector HLR shock. I think I'll get it working quite fine eventually, for hard riding, if not, I'll sell the MP+ and send the original CTD to Avalance, for tuning.

    The Debonair feels great on normal trails, but my intention for my Foxy is to make it bike park ready, and tuned for the rooty, gnarlier stuff, since I already have a Cube Stereo 29" that is really great for most things.
    Last edited by OysteinS; 02-05-2015 at 07:41 AM.

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by OysteinS View Post

    The Debonair feels great on normal trails, but my intention for my Foxy is to make it bike park ready, and tuned for the rooty, gnarlier stuff, since I already have a Cube Stereo 29" that is really great for most things.
    Those are two extremes. Really short top tube on the Stereo and really long top tube on the foxy. Or does the stereo measure longer than stated because of it's offset seat tube?

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Can you even buy one without Debonair now? I haven't been able to find one.

    Seems a shame to buy one with the bigger air can and then negate that by having to have to fill it up with spacers, unless of course there are other benefits to the Debonair?
    Should be able to, especially in a RT3.

    My impression of riding the Debonair vs the std and large air can versions is that it rides like no other shock .Rockshox have created a shock which due to it's two stage feel imitates the ride of a 4 bar linkage in it's initial travel but firms up after the sag zone. Ideal for mfg to fit to single pivot bikes to imitate a virtual pivot or other bikes with lots of pedal feedback.

  58. #458
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    Just a heads up to anyone thats been reluctant to buy the new foxy carbon because of the component spec; they've just released a special edition model with what i think to be the perfect build (excluding the formula brakes) for a reasonable price. It sports the new fox 36, easton wheels, and a 1x11 (XT + e.13 EX cog) drivetrain. oh and they've done away with all the ctd cable nonsense.

    you can find it here:
    Mondraker Foxy XR SE Carbon 2015 Mountain Bike | Evans Cycles

    Also, I live in Texas but go up to New Mexico and Colorado to ride some of the dh parks during the summers. Has anyone had any experience riding the XR in the bike park? If so, how does it handle big hits and larger jump trails like A-Line?

  59. #459
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    First post here, so hi to all

    One thing I really don't understand is the pricing policy of Mondraker. The specs are, at least for my likes, all a little odd and you can have a much better (for your own likes) specced bike at a lower price if you make a custom build, even though the frames are expensive.

    For example, I am looking into a custom build Foxy XR Carbon frame with Pike RCT3, DT Swiss XM or EX1501 Spline One wheelset, Syntace Vector carbon handlebar, X01 drivetrain, Shimano XTR Trail brakes, Kindshox dropper post and if I include all the smaller items (XTR pedals, tires, grips, bottom bracket etc.) I end up with a price significantly below the top-end XR version at a lighter weight and I get every single piece I want ...

    Am I missing something?

    But, apart from Mondrakers speccing policy, I already fell in love with the Foxy and will hopefully soon start my build. So excited!

    BTW, the EASTON wheelset of the SE version seems to have super-small 20mm XC rims ... probably not something you want on your all-mountain bike with ambitions to be a little enduro

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chriztoph View Post
    First post here, so hi to all

    One thing I really don't understand is the pricing policy of Mondraker. The specs are, at least for my likes, all a little odd and you can have a much better (for your own likes) specced bike at a lower price if you make a custom build, even though the frames are expensive.

    For example, I am looking into a custom build Foxy XR Carbon frame with Pike RCT3, DT Swiss XM or EX1501 Spline One wheelset, Syntace Vector carbon handlebar, X01 drivetrain, Shimano XTR Trail brakes, Kindshox dropper post and if I include all the smaller items (XTR pedals, tires, grips, bottom bracket etc.) I end up with a price significantly below the top-end XR version at a lighter weight and I get every single piece I want ...

    Am I missing something?

    But, apart from Mondrakers speccing policy, I already fell in love with the Foxy and will hopefully soon start my build. So excited!

    BTW, the EASTON wheelset of the SE version seems to have super-small 20mm XC rims ... probably not something you want on your all-mountain bike with ambitions to be a little enduro
    unfortunatelt this not only happens at Mondraker... Santa cruz for example

    about use the foxy xr at bikeparks with big jumps mmm, I think this isn`t the right bike for you. Im not telling that is not capable, but the bike will suffer a bit. Maybe with a enduro built. Have you think in a Dune? A lot of people says that climb and pedal very good, similar to foxy...

    Ive been sevaral times in a bikepark with the foxy and It's very capable and funny, but my jumps are not very extreme jejejeje

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfstone View Post
    unfortunatelt this not only happens at Mondraker... Santa cruz for example

    about use the foxy xr at bikeparks with big jumps mmm, I think this isn`t the right bike for you. Im not telling that is not capable, but the bike will suffer a bit. Maybe with a enduro built. Have you think in a Dune? A lot of people says that climb and pedal very good, similar to foxy...

    Ive been sevaral times in a bikepark with the foxy and It's very capable and funny, but my jumps are not very extreme jejejeje
    Thanks for the advice. The Dune sounds great, but its kinda overkill for most of the riding I'll be doing in Austin, TX. I just hate paying for the costly dh bike rentals when i go up there, but dont want to buy a dh bike for 2 weeks out of the year.

  62. #462
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    Hi guys,

    Thinking of getting a Foxy. The trails near me are quite flat (although of course i travel to the more rowdy stuff). Just wanetd to known how the Foxy handles on flatter terrain. Is its still as good as i have heard it may be a bit of a handful and that it really only excels on the steep stuff

    Any advice appreciated

    Oli

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Hi guys,

    Thinking of getting a Foxy. The trails near me are quite flat (although of course i travel to the more rowdy stuff). Just wanetd to known how the Foxy handles on flatter terrain. Is its still as good as i have heard it may be a bit of a handful and that it really only excels on the steep stuff

    Any advice appreciated

    Oli
    That has not been my experience. The Foxy rails flat turns faster than anything else I've ridden to date, save for my own custom built bike, which is built on Mondraker's Forward Geometry concept... but a bit lower, slacker and longer.

    Cheers,
    KP
    If you like my products and services tell everyone. If you don't, tell me - kirk(at)pacenticycledesign.com

  64. #464
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    The reason they call it a Foxy is just that, it will Fox you.

    It is a light bike and it has an efficient 140 rear travel. It is light and efficient, it will cope with flat. Well, certainly mask the flat. The Foxing part is, it loves flowing gentle gravity down to mega steep gravity. It just does that so well, that you will hunger for more of that over the flat stuff. It's not tardy on the flat by any measure. And I totally agree with Kirk, that is my experience as well.

    You'll get out of the saddle and sprint into that next flat turn, because you can.

    Cheers

    W

  65. #465
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    Anyone know if the FOXY and DUNE are the same frame but different linkage and chainstay.
    Running the no's in Geocalc with different forks comes out pretty much the same .
    geometryCalc

    Anyone know the DUNE frame weight? From what I gather,the Foxy is about 6 lbs with shock[ approx the same weight as a Giant Trance]

  66. #466
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    Different frame, the factory says you can run a piggy back on the Dune, but not the Foxy (well, all of the Foxy frame sizes).

    I stand to be corrected though, don't have a Dune

  67. #467
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    Different linkages may account for that, along with the extra travel?[ Commencal used to do that] Just seems strange that even the BB height is the same when paired with the same forks.

  68. #468
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    Finally getting the bike built. Just have to get my chain and then cut the steer tube. Man, that front tire was nuts to put on. Took 2 of us. Trying out a bionicon oval 32t ring. Too bad the snow here is nuts. I want to ride soon!

    No idea of weight.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-img_0791.jpg  

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-img_0795.jpg  

    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-img_0792.jpg  


  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    Finally getting the bike built. Just have to get my chain and then cut the steer tube. Man, that front tire was nuts to put on. Took 2 of us. Trying out a bionicon oval 32t ring. Too bad the snow here is nuts. I want to ride soon!

    No idea of weight.
    Looking sweet, you should hey yourself a fat bike for the winter months. I just picked up this beargrease yesterday cause I was going crazy waiting for better weather. ..


    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-20150216_080639.jpg

  70. #470
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    So I recently sold my beloved Ibis Mojo HD after 4 brilliant years of service. I always thought it would take a hell of a bike to take the mantle of being my main ride away it, and just before Christmas I had the pleasure of having a standard Foxy Carbon on test for a month from the chaps at Silverfish UK. Within the first few hundred metres of trail I knew I'd found the Mojo's successor. Fast forward a month and Silverfish announced the very, very limited edition XR SE. Specifically built for the UK market to limited to just 25 bikes, I just had to have one. I hadn't planned on moving the Ibis on until summer, but with such limited numbers available I jumped on one while I could!

    Please excuse the horrendous iPhone pictures, they hardly do the bike justice and I'll try and get some decent snaps in due course.













    This is the first off the shelf bike I've bought since I got my very first mtb back in 2004, which says a lot about the off the shelf spec. I've changed a few bits and pieces from stock and a few more plans are in place for the coming months, but out of the box it's pretty dialed with a Fox 36, Kashima coated CTD shock, reverb and Easton wheelset. I changed the brakes from Formula CR1's to my favourite XT's and likewise the chain and cassette were swapped from Sram 1030 to XT items. I also swapped the slx shifter to a saint as they feel so much nicer and are practically the same as XTR but cost a heap less. While stock High Roller 2's are great tyres and I'm tempted to keep them I was very keen to try the new Schwalbe Nobby Nic and so far this seems like a great choice. They roll well, grip well and seem more predictable than the old ones and dropped a decent amount of weight the stock bike as well, which is never a bad thing in my book. The last change was a major bling touch, with the stock Raceface Evolve cranks swapped for some Next SL's which finish the bike off nicely 8) Current spec is as follows:

    2015 Mondraker Foxy Carbon XR SE - Large
    2015 Fox 36 Float 160 RC2
    2015 Fox Float CTD
    Mondraker Onoff bar, stem grips and saddle
    Rockshox Reverb Stealth dropper post
    Easton EA70 XL wheelset
    Schwalbe Nobby Nic Snakeskin - 2.35 trailstar front, 2.25 Pacestar rear
    Shimano XT cassette, chain and brakes
    180mm Shimano Icetech rotors
    Raceface Next SL 175mm cranks 34t DM ring
    Shimano Saint shifter
    Shimano XT trail pedals

    All of the changes knocked a fair chunk of weight off the bike, with the stock build coming in at 29.7lbs without pedals and the new one coming in a hair over 27lbs in the same guise, which is pretty dame good for such a burly and reasonably modest build (mostly xt spec, alloy bars, cheap own brand saddle).

    Planned upgrades are carbon Easton Haven 35 bars and the new 32mm reach Haven 35 stem when it's available and I'll probably go up to 11 speed XT/XTR mix if 11 speed XT is released in summer. After that I might change the wheelset to something a little wider, as the EA70 XL's are only 20mm internally and while perfectly acceptable for at the minute I'd like to try something a little wider and possibly a smidge lighter.

    Overall though I'm chuffed to bits with it. Gave it it's maiden thrash at LLandegla yesterday and despite a lack of fitness currently it obliterated most of my PB's on strava. This is by far and away the fastest and most confident inspiring bike I've ever ridden and despite the colossus wheelbase (1220mm!! :shock: ) it climbs incredibly well, clearing many technical climbs that would have the Ibis searching for traction and front lifting all over the place. I can see me keeping this bike for many, many years to come!

  71. #471
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    That's gorgeous.

    I don't know you, but I hate you.

  72. #472
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    A touch excessive, painting your radiator to match your bike

  73. #473
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    Just to let everyone know that i am selling a 2015 Foxy frame Large (new) if anyone is interested - 1300

    Decided not to build it up afterall and stick with my hard tail

    Oli

  74. #474
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    Hey, nice to see that you'll be good to go soon depeche
    I know i am a bit late, but thanks for the review of the bar you made for me, i hope i'll have time to start building my own soon and can show it to you guys, but as a newbie i may have tons of question during process, counting on you ;D
    @lawman1991 Gratz on that one, looks pretty neat to me!
    @Olibluegoat why did you change your mind after buying the frame if i'm not beiing too curious?

  75. #475
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    Just decided that i couldnt afford to build it up.

  76. #476
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    Just to report: OEM bearings on 2014 frames are sh**. After 6 months of moderate use in Greek dry climate they have developed stiction and annoying ticking sound is coming from the linkage. Bike has been washed no more than 5 times with pressure washer and it was done carefully. I believe that somewhere with more mud and rain they would last considerably less. At least they are standard industrial bearings so quite easy to source from a local hardware store.

  77. #477
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    Like jfstone, would be good to see some action shots of foxys

  78. #478
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    Where are you buying frame only? I can't seem to find it with reasonable shipping to Europe!

  79. #479
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    I got my complete bike from Tweeks Cycles in the UK, they do frame only as well and will ship across Europe - Full Suspension Frames | Frames | Frames & Forks | Components | Home | Tweeks Cycles

  80. #480
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    Lawman1991 - The UK special edition is definitely the way to go - that spec is awesome.

  81. #481
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by lawman1991 View Post
    I got my complete bike from Tweeks Cycles in the UK, they do frame only as well and will ship across Europe - Full Suspension Frames | Frames | Frames & Forks | Components | Home | Tweeks Cycles
    Ok thanks for the info! Haven't stumbled on that store earlier. Buying anything in euros is a really bad deal at the moment!

  82. #482
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    So, just finished installing the L/L tune kit for the Monarch Plus.

    Wouldn't say easy but certainly would have been easier with the all the correct tools. The nut that holds on the shim stack was pretty tight so trying to clamp the shaft without damaging it was an issue.

    Speaking of correct tools, my next issue is the mounting hardware. I'd assumed that the bushes that came already in the Monarch stayed there, and I pressed the other bush from the Foxy (you can see below) through that one (wasn't easy).





    But the black spacers that go either side aren't wide enough so there's a gap that would have been taken up by the cream coloured bushes:



    I'm guessing I need to remove the metal one that came with the monarch and replace with the plastic ones that came out of the Fox?

    Unless anyone thinks it's ok to run it like this:




    Probably not.


    Question: Anyone got any tips on how to remove the pre-installed bush on the Monarch without the proper Rockshox tool?

    I'm worried I'll damage (or at least mark) the shock given how hard I had to push the other bush through it, it aint coming out easily. Don't suppose it matters about the bush itself as I wont be using it.

    Cheers....

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Unless anyone thinks it's ok to run it like this:

    I had the same issue, and bought a set of Q-rings, size 112:

    112 Buna-N 70 X-Rings / Quad-Rings [QR-112] : O-Rings - The O-Ring Store, We make getting O-Rings easy!

    Seems to work fine, packed with Slick Honey to keep water out. You might check the gap size, and maybe go one size up, to Q-206, if necessary.

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    So, just finished installing the L/L tune kit for the Monarch Plus.

    Wouldn't say easy but certainly would have been easier with the all the correct tools. The nut that holds on the shim stack was pretty tight so trying to clamp the shaft without damaging it was an issue.

    Speaking of correct tools, my next issue is the mounting hardware. I'd assumed that the bushes that came already in the Monarch stayed there, and I pressed the other bush from the Foxy (you can see below) through that one (wasn't easy).





    But the black spacers that go either side aren't wide enough so there's a gap that would have been taken up by the cream coloured bushes:



    I'm guessing I need to remove the metal one that came with the monarch and replace with the plastic ones that came out of the Fox?

    Unless anyone thinks it's ok to run it like this:




    Probably not.


    Question: Anyone got any tips on how to remove the pre-installed bush on the Monarch without the proper Rockshox tool?

    I'm worried I'll damage (or at least mark) the shock given how hard I had to push the other bush through it, it aint coming out easily. Don't suppose it matters about the bush itself as I wont be using it.

    Cheers....
    Even with Rockshox hardware the black spacers should be a similar width to your pin. Even on 40mm wide hardware the black spacers are a matching width. You shouldn't need to remove the DU bush and fit the fox bushing if the RS hardware was correct. Looks like you've got defective. mis matched hardware .Aren't all RS hardware anodised black. why is yours anodisd silver?

  85. #485
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    My bike today
    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-uploadfromtaptalk1424634289606.jpg

  86. #486
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    Seen at foromtb (spanish forum)
    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-uploadfromtaptalk1424634366942.jpg

  87. #487
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    Interesting!

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    Even with Rockshox hardware the black spacers should be a similar width to your pin. Even on 40mm wide hardware the black spacers are a matching width. You shouldn't need to remove the DU bush and fit the fox bushing if the RS hardware was correct. Looks like you've got defective. mis matched hardware .Aren't all RS hardware anodised black. why is yours anodisd silver?

    Thanks GVS_NZ and OysteinS.

    The silver bit you can see in the last picture is the original Foxy bush that goes through the very tight fitting bush already fitted to the shock, You can see it because I'm missing spacers in that pic.

    My solution was similar to OysteinS, instead of using Q rings I took the Foxy's original cream coloured bush and cut off the piece that went through the shock eyelet.
    So now it's just a spacer that fills the gap you can see.



    Next issue! I'm having trouble getting the IFP up to pressure. When I remove the schrader adapter tool from the IFP port (still connected to the pump) it looses a load of air. Goes from about 250 down to 180.

    Is there a trick to doing this?

  89. #489
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    I have similar issues with my current float shock. Seems to loose 10-30 psi when unscrewing shock pump.

    Previous shocks wouldn't loose this much air.

    I guess current valve is more sensitive.

    I now use a topeak digital pressure gauge. I pump above required psi then use the gauge to bleed to exact psi. Best $25 spent

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Thanks GVS_NZ and OysteinS.

    The silver bit you can see in the last picture is the original Foxy bush that goes through the very tight fitting bush already fitted to the shock, You can see it because I'm missing spacers in that pic.

    My solution was similar to OysteinS, instead of using Q rings I took the Foxy's original cream coloured bush and cut off the piece that went through the shock eyelet.
    So now it's just a spacer that fills the gap you can see.



    Next issue! I'm having trouble getting the IFP up to pressure. When I remove the schrader adapter tool from the IFP port (still connected to the pump) it looses a load of air. Goes from about 250 down to 180.

    Is there a trick to doing this?
    Try and order some Rockshox hardware the right width. You may find the fox hollow pin is not a good fit in the Du bush? the Rs hardware used to be a bit tight but is now been resized to be a sooth gliding fit. Don't forget if the pin/DU bush is to tight the pin will ritae in the frame and not inside the bushing.

    You always do loose some air. Not sure how much. i just overcompensate with extra pressure before removing the air hose. you don't have to exactly 250 psi. I've run down to[indicated pump pressure] 220 psi and not had any problems with shock fluid aeration.

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrsv1 View Post
    Next issue! I'm having trouble getting the IFP up to pressure. When I remove the schrader adapter tool from the IFP port (still connected to the pump) it looses a load of air. Goes from about 250 down to 180.

    Is there a trick to doing this?
    I'm am not sure how you do the measuring, but you must keep in mind that if you, at some later time, reconnect the pump, and if there is not any pressure in the hose between the pressure gauge and the schraeder adapter; when you reconnect the hose to the IFP, some pressure from the IFP will bleed over to the hose. So generally you can't measure the pressure in the IFP by reconnecting any measuring apparatus (pump?). The only practical way to set the correct pressure is to keep pumping until you reach the desired pressure, and then unscrew the (correct) adapter. The valve will/shall close before the threads and gasket disengages. Air will be released from the hose, and you might be confused to believe that it is the IFP pressure that is released.

  92. #492
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    The dreaded moment has arrived - a cracked rear triangle on 2014 frame
    Mondraker frames are actually quite famous for that but I thought that was a thing of the past. And I am in no way an aggressive rider. Does anyone have any experience how long does the warranty replacement procedure take?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5-uploadfromtaptalk1424722509480.jpg  


  93. #493
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    To be confirmed but i think it's lifetime.

  94. #494
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    yep

  95. #495
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    Frames are lifetime, rear triangles and pivots are 2yrs according to warranty card supplied at purchase. What I wonder is how long it takes for a local distributor to get a replacement triangle through warranty claim. I'm sure it's not something that distributors have in stock.

  96. #496
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    Here at spain, in four days you have a new rear triangle like 2015 but in your same colour.

  97. #497
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    Mondraker Foxy XR 27.5

    I sure hope they will give me a 2015 triangle, which supposedly have been structurally reinforced compared to 2014 model. It would be wonderful if it was in the same raw finish as you say. But I do not live in Spain so we'll see how long it will take.

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by branemb View Post
    The dreaded moment has arrived - a cracked rear triangle on 2014 frame
    Mondraker frames are actually quite famous for that but I thought that was a thing of the past. And I am in no way an aggressive rider. Does anyone have any experience how long does the warranty replacement procedure take?
    Not good, hope you get it fixed soon. Let us know how you get on.

  99. #499
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    Looks like the o ring on my adapter was damaged. Replaced it and now it loses a lot less air when removed from the shock.

    Almost good to go, just waiting on my volume reducers arriving now.

  100. #500
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    Vorsprung Suspension has just released an aftermarket air can for Fox shocks. The replacement air can has a larger negative air chamber to reduce the spring rate required to initiate the initial stroke of the rear shock. Ie, similar to the Debonair can.

    I've been reading this MTBR thread on the can
    Vorsprung Corset

    I am running my stock CTD shock at 30%+ sag to achieve small bump compliance. Any less sag and the rear end rides harsh. Running this much sag means lower air pressure, and less mid stroke support.

    In the thread posted above, theres discussions that this Air Can design only suits virtual pivot designs with regressive leverage ratios early in the stroke eg, SC Nomad. It doesnt suit virtual pivot designs with progressive leverage built in the early stages of travel eg, SC Bronson. If suspension is designed so the early stage of travel is progressive, then having a larger negative chamber will make the initial travel too soft and therefore be detrimental.

    My questions are:
    - Is the above correct?
    - If so, does the foxy have a regressive or progressive leverage ratio early in its travel?
    - If regressive, will the Corset, or increasing negative air improve suspension performance on the foxy, ie, better midstroke support with more compliance in initial travel.

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