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  1. #801
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    @bryan_d
    How does perform your 350R after a longer time from lubrication?

  2. #802
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    I'm using molykote 55 for o-rings for the seals, apart from just adding oil to the lowers. IHMO, overall feeling is better with SKF, but I can't tell you how long they are staying good. I put them on before going to a bikepark and because it was 3 rainy days out of 6 days there, I've decided to make a full service when I came back. And not much riding since then...

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by graved1gger View Post
    I'm using molykote 55 for o-rings for the seals, apart from just adding oil to the lowers. IHMO, overall feeling is better with SKF, but I can't tell you how long they are staying good. I put them on before going to a bikepark and because it was 3 rainy days out of 6 days there, I've decided to make a full service when I came back. And not much riding since then...
    OK, please let us know your opinion after some time.

    Thx in advance!

  4. #804
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    I too use the recommended Molykote 55 for the seals, but I also wipe the stanchions clean after each ride and then spray with Fork Juice, or Maxima Suspension Clean to keep everything slick.

    I get about 3 months out of my 380 C2Rs Ti, of 3 days a week at the bike park before the fork starts to get a little stickier. Doing the same with my 350 NCRs I get some benefit from service every 6 months or so (as trail riding is way less harsh than the bike park).

    With the seals, make sure that you really pack the gap in them with lots of grease to keep them running stiction free for as long as possible.

  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marynos View Post
    Thanks for infomration.
    Are you sure that red one's are the same as SKF ?

    There is a significant difference in price between red and green.

    If I make a lower drop and lubricate seals and bushings then the fork works great, sensvivity is very good but after 1-2 week performance goes very low.
    I am chiming back with my 350 R experience, and the stiction is back since the fresh lubing. I am currently looking into some custom springs but I have been lagging on it; trying to decide between dropping moola on SKF seals or a custom spring.

    Bryan


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  6. #806
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    Anyone have experience on the 350 NCR TI? I'm thinking of getting one as they are a lot cheaper now. On the Marzocchi site they show two spring options. I weigh 155lbs without kit so around 160 in full battle rattle. I wish it came with HSC adjuster but very few companies are giving us that option today. I just want to know how easy is it to pull this fork apart and service it and any other ride impressions vs a Pike. Thanks.

  7. #807
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    Picked up a lightly used 2015 350 NCR the other day. Got it on my MK12 and right away noticed it was kind of sticky. Pulled the springs off the seals, took a needle greaser and pushed in some Slick honey. Instantly got better, bet its the damned seals. Those same seals on my friends 36 felt sticky unless constantly lubed and eventually tore up the stanchions. Took the bike out and railed on it and it feels great. I'm 250 RTR and with 95psi it feels good, feels very coil like. Almost bottoms but not quite, good small bump, good large event and rebound tuned right in.

    Damper is a bit loud but not much more than my PUSH'ed 36float was. I'm not a huge lockout fan but I gave it a shot on a long fireroad and it perfect if you tend to stand and mash up stuff like that. Tire clearance seems great around the arch as well.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Picked up a lightly used 2015 350 NCR the other day. Got it on my MK12 and right away noticed it was kind of sticky. Pulled the springs off the seals, took a needle greaser and pushed in some Slick honey. Instantly got better, bet its the damned seals. Those same seals on my friends 36 felt sticky unless constantly lubed and eventually tore up the stanchions. Took the bike out and railed on it and it feels great. I'm 250 RTR and with 95psi it feels good, feels very coil like. Almost bottoms but not quite, good small bump, good large event and rebound tuned right in.

    Damper is a bit loud but not much more than my PUSH'ed 36float was. I'm not a huge lockout fan but I gave it a shot on a long fireroad and it perfect if you tend to stand and mash up stuff like that. Tire clearance seems great around the arch as well.
    If you read older posts in this thread, it seems slick honey is not a great product for this fork. From what I understand, the cartridge is semi-open bath and uses a port to exchange oil between the damper and lowers (which is likely the noise you hear on big hits). If slick honey mixes in with the lowers oil, it can clog this port.

    See this post: Marzocchi - Better late than never

  9. #809
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    I've read most of this thread, I own a few Marz forks. I only put a small amount between the lips of the seals to lube the dust seals. I didn't pump it into the lowers, it would need to get past another set of seals yet.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  10. #810
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    I just did a total rebuild on my NCR this weekend (damper too since I broke the rebound knob off and had to replace the lower damper assembly) and actually feel a bit of the stiction is in the seals on the air piston. I have no idea how to smooth that out.

  11. #811
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    Maybe this is the issue - air piston seal.

    By the way what do you think is it possible to run 350 CR without oil seals since it has sealed cartridge ?

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marynos View Post
    Maybe this is the issue - air piston seal.

    By the way what do you think is it possible to run 350 CR without oil seals since it has sealed cartridge ?
    The cartridge isn't sealed, it sucks bath oil in through a one way valve in the base of the cartridge and has a small hole at the top of the cartridge where oil can vent from when the the damper experiences a high compression load. That is also why the bath oil has to be the same (at least on the damper side) as what's in the cartridge itself.

    That's why it's called the DBC (Dynamic Bleed Cartridge).
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  13. #813
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    Quote Originally Posted by psycle-on View Post
    I just did a total rebuild on my NCR this weekend (damper too since I broke the rebound knob off and had to replace the lower damper assembly) and actually feel a bit of the stiction is in the seals on the air piston. I have no idea how to smooth that out.
    I would say it is probably a little of both. Also I feel the stiction when doing "parking lot" and static tests seems to disappear while riding after the oil has circulated a bit. I will also say I prefer the feel of this fork over the 34 Fit 4.

  14. #814
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    How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?

    MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.

  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marynos View Post
    How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?

    MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.
    i did put 40ml each, and feels better than ever.


    and a quiestion.
    would a '10 rc3(160mm travel) cartide fit into a 350cr?

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marynos View Post
    How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?

    MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.
    40 ml is OK. If you add more oil to air leg you increase progressivity of travel. I put 25 ml in each leg as suggested. MZ changed this in recent years, because there is no longer open bath but new DBC damper where you put oil inside the cartridge, then add this little amount (25 ml) for lubrication of sliders.
    L_u_k_a_s

  17. #817
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    Regarding to the stiction, my technician says that the problem is with the poor quality bushings
    Last edited by Marynos; 06-27-2016 at 06:03 AM.

  18. #818
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    Mine is still fine since putting a bit of slick honey between the lips of the seals. My fork works great and I got a bunch of miles on it pretty fast.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  19. #819
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Mine is still fine since putting a bit of slick honey between the lips of the seals. My fork works great and I got a bunch of miles on it pretty fast.
    Did you change the stock seals? How much oil did you put into lowers?

  20. #820
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    Lowers haven't been dropped, I did not change the seals out.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  21. #821
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    Hi,

    I just a bought a used 350 NCR Ti (not in a great shape) and I think it needs a good service. I found the video online for the NCR series service. Is there any thing else I need to be careful of on the Ti ? I've been working on marzocchis a long time ago, so I'm not too worried, but I'd rather ask.

    Also, I may change the travel. Same. I found the video for the CR and NCR, but not the Ti, is it the same procedure ? What happens to the coil spring ? Is it going to be preloaded if I put a 20mm spacer inside ? That wouldn't be good !

    n.b. I read the topic, but don't recall seing any of that.

    Thanks
    French line enthusiast and expat in Denver

    I like bikes, I really do.

  22. #822
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    Swissam,
    I'm also looking at the 350NCR Ti , did you get any response? I'm same weight and really want to know at 160lbs (73kg) does the spring rate work, how much pre load is needed and are there other spring option . Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    Anyone have experience on the 350 NCR TI? I'm thinking of getting one as they are a lot cheaper now. On the Marzocchi site they show two spring options. I weigh 155lbs without kit so around 160 in full battle rattle. I wish it came with HSC adjuster but very few companies are giving us that option today. I just want to know how easy is it to pull this fork apart and service it and any other ride impressions vs a Pike. Thanks.

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcmnorcal View Post
    Swissam,
    I'm also looking at the 350NCR Ti , did you get any response? I'm same weight and really want to know at 160lbs (73kg) does the spring rate work, how much pre load is needed and are there other spring option . Thanks
    I'm not getting one unless I see one cheap on Ebay. Trying to save money plus I want a new Gibson guitar. My pikes are good enough for now after sending then to a tuning shop here in Switzerland. Nothing special just new SKF seals and some special oil and they feel better than new.

  24. #824
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    I have a NCR350 can I just toss in whatever 7.5w or is there a certain brand I should stick with? I'm just going to drop lowers, clean and lube dust seals and reassemble. My 44micro ti I just run Sway away 7.5w oil in cause I had it here. Being these are known for getting sticking and the cartridge bleeds into the bath oil I figured I'd check.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  25. #825
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    Marzocchi recommend Spectro 7.5w, but any 7.5 will do in a pinch.

  26. #826
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    Ha dropped my lowers, got NO oil at all from the air side and less than 10cc's from the damper side. Pulled the dust seals and the space inside was full of clear lube that looked a lot like slick honey. NO way I put even close to that much in there.

    I put 50cc's of bath oil in each leg, the oil in the air chamber and lubed up the seals and all real good. Feels great!


    I'd like to service the damper next time I drop the lowers. Any special bleed procedure for the DBC? Internet isn't exactly overflowing with info on these forks.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  27. #827
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    Re servicing DBC damper: same as with LR system in this video https://youtu.be/bDP6X4nmp9c

    Had the same experience with no oil at all in the air leg

    I always lube the seals internally too BUT in my experience it is lubing the sliders (with silicon spray) after every few rides that keeps fork plush.
    L_u_k_a_s

  28. #828
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    Quote Originally Posted by enregistree View Post
    Re servicing DBC damper: same as with LR system in this video https://youtu.be/bDP6X4nmp9c

    Had the same experience with no oil at all in the air leg

    I always lube the seals internally too BUT in my experience it is lubing the sliders (with silicon spray) after every few rides that keeps fork plush.
    Thanks! I found that video when I was searching but didn't know it was the same.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyco View Post
    so... 2015 350 cr, is it worth it?

    I just nabbed one and like it so far.

  30. #830
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    Looks like Fox are busy with Marzocchi, rebranded Transfer post and plenty more happening behind the scenes according to Singletrack mag at eurobike.

  31. #831
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    I went on the marzocchi page the other day and it was updated and has 2017 stuff on it.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  32. #832
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    What's the widest tyre that can safely be squeezed into a 350? Rim inner width of ~35mm.

    Also the ones that had premature stanchion wear, was that only on the 2014 models with the super crazy stanchion colour, or has this also been a problem on 2015 models?

    Thanks

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by phreeky View Post

    Also the ones that had premature stanchion wear, was that only on the 2014 models with the super crazy stanchion colour, or has this also been a problem on 2015 models?

    Thanks
    The coating on my 2015 NCR started to wear pretty early on. I was told that it's a common issue and just cosmetic.

  34. #834
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    My 2015 has a noticeable amount to of wear on the expresso coating.

    Looks like my NCR350 is coming apart soon. Left side leg seal is pushing oil and top of damper adjuster is leaking now. Marzocchi has the damper listed as 1 unit but I'm going to try and pull it apart and replace the seal I think.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  35. #835
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    Has anybody experience with serviceing the 053 shock?
    Mine has air in it. And the instructions on the marzocchi websites require some special tools and a vacuum pump.

  36. #836
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    Hi guys,

    Quick opinion request please:
    I recently got a Marzocchi 350R to go no my custom build Bronson C. However I have no experience with coil shocks. I havent yet had a proper ride on this fork, but i do have the opportunity to pick up a 350CR for very little money - is this a worthwhile upgrade? I know its air sprung, and it weighs 200 grams less...

  37. #837
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    Hey I'm running a 650B 2.8" High Roller II with my 2014 350 CR with no clearance issues. May even be able to fit the 3.0".

  38. #838
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    Forgot to mention the 2.8 High Roller II is on a Easton ARC 30 Rim 35 mm outer width

  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by owenfranssen View Post
    Hi guys,

    Quick opinion request please:
    I recently got a Marzocchi 350R to go no my custom build Bronson C. However I have no experience with coil shocks. I havent yet had a proper ride on this fork, but i do have the opportunity to pick up a 350CR for very little money - is this a worthwhile upgrade? I know its air sprung, and it weighs 200 grams less...
    It all depends on which flavour of kool-aide your drinking.... tuning ability of air spring or linear rate coil spring..... use full travel only when need... or every time you ride.

    Personally I'd go for the CR if the cost is palletable. I prefer to have the abilty to tune the spring rate to my liking for my weight and way I ride and I like a progressive spring curve. The twang of my fork bottoming out is not music to my ears. Also the low speed compression adjustment actually makes noticable difference in the fork behaviour.

    However, out of the box the CR does come with a very progressive curve due to the volume of oil in the air chamber. I tipped mine upside down and let as much oil out as possible without removing the valve core to be able to get full travel. I run 71 psi (I'm around 165lbs fully loaded) only bottomed out when I got something wrong and could not get fully travel in a carpark test.

    I recently serviced my fork and found with no oil in the chamber and pumped to 71psi and did a carpark test and easily blew right through the travel. I ended up with 10mm of oil in the air chamber to get the progression curve i wanted.

    Bottom line if you not in the coil camp and like to fettle then definitely go the CR.

    Full setup :- 71psi, 4-5 clicks rebound (from fastest) 2-4 clicks low speed compression.

  40. #840
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    Anyone try the Enduro seals instead of the SKF ones that are in the 350NCR? My fork feels great till the seals get dry then it gets sticky. Pry the dust seals out and put a thin coat of oil on the lower seals and stickiness is gone.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  41. #841
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    ^^ This makes me feel good about not springing for the NCR to get the expresó coat.
    Haven't tried them, but I did email the enduro fork seals guy when I got my 350CR to ask if they would fit (as I like them on my old RS rev). He wasn't sure, but kind of insinuated that he'd refund the cost of the seals if I ordered them and let him know if they worked or not. Didn't have the cash for 35mm seal press at the time so never got around to it. I've just got into the habit of using some Finish Line stantion lube as part of my pre-ride checks to remove the stiction.. (tyres, oil chain, wipe and lube stantions, invert fork as I walk bike out the garage, ride).... I would be keen to know how they go if you decide to go with the enduro fork seals.

  42. #842
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    The SKF seals are considerably less sticky than the standard seals. I had the 888, and have the 350NCR and 380 C2R2 Ti and it's a noticeable difference in how long it takes for things to get sticky.

    I'd recommend packing the seals with Molykote, keeping everything clean, and applying a dry silicon lube like Fork Juice, or Finish Line Teflon lube after each ride. For me, this keeps everything super plush at the seals for longer than the oil service intervals.

  43. #843
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    I already spray the fork with finish line. I don't have to do any of this with my old pre Kashima float36.

    To be clear the SKF seals are sticky. I'm hoping maybe the Enduro ones aren't not.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  44. #844
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    Hi,

    I bought also a SKF seals for my 350 CR and frankly speaking nothing changed.
    After some days after service (molykote on seals) fork is sticky.

    Money spent in the mud...

    What do you think to remove the oil seals since there is a sealed cardridge inside? In Fox and SR forks you can also add a certain volume of oil into lower legs and they are working fine only with dust seals.

  45. #845
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    Nice out of the box thinking. It might be possible, risky though, I wouldn't do it. Not sure how much the seals help protect from rubbing on the bushing. Also might mean you have to change oil more often though as more dirt will reach the oil.
    Yea it's a sealed cartridge, but as I understand it, the DBC needs the oil bath in the bottom of the fork leg to work properly and cycle the oil. So I'd expect as long as you aren't losing oil it would work.

    I'm not 100% certain on the air side, but the air tube is sealed so the oil seals are only keeping the oil for lubing the bushes in the lower. Once again though how much do the seals work to keep from rubbing against the bushings.

  46. #846
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    You may be right.

    I was also thinking to change the oil in dbc cartridge from 7.5 W (golden spectro, 26 cSt@40°C) to 5W Motorex (22,60 cSt@40C).
    Maybe LSC will be weaker and it will have good impact on initial smoothness.

  47. #847
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    Yea, I changed to 5w Motorex from 15w rock oil, cause I can't get spectro any where. These guys reckon [http://www.shockcraft.co.nz/news/bik...-august-2016/] the 5w motorex is the same as Specto.

    Initially I did find what you suggested the LSC seemed to soften up a bit (2 clicks worth) But that could because, I did a full clean and grease with molykote 55 of all seals at the same time (didn't replace any seals) and I initially didn't put as much oil back into the air spring. Added more oil to add more progression since and haven't need the extra 2 clicks of LSC.

  48. #848
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    Golden Spectro 26cSt@40C

    To obtain the same viscosity as Marzocchi 7,5W Golden Spectro, Motorex oils should be mixed in the following ratio: 70% of 5W and 30% of 7.5-W.
    You say that you didn't notice difference?


  49. #849
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    It's also worth checking that everything is aligned fine with your bushings, and that they're clean and lubed. I've seen way more problems with stickiness from bushing problems than seal issues. If you've got a twist/bend in there somewhere then you'll get that sticky feeling - no matter how happy your seals are.

  50. #850
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    What do you propose for lubrication of bushings? Molykote 55 or non silicone grease?

  51. #851
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    I read somewhere, Marz recommend molykote 55 because it doesn't react with the Golden Spectro and gunk up the internals. Molykote 55 and rock oil definitely do turn into a nasty gunk. Haven't reopened my fork yet since changing to motorex to see how they react.

    Its always hard to say if the it's the oil or just a refreshed suspension all together. But yes I do notice a lighter feeling LSC with motorex 5W during. But this also gave the LSC a bit more tuning range for me. I can run a little less LSC (usually 3-4 clicks) without it getting all squirmy mid corner when my weight shifts. Now I can range from 2-6 clicks from full open. 2 for when I'm feeling like I just was it super plush for general tail duty and 6 if I really want charge. I.e a timed event.

    But I find the thing that makes the most difference to the initial seal stiction is the finisline stanchion Fluoro oil.

  52. #852
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    So i jsut discovered marks on my MZ 2015 ncr air, on both legs, long for about 10 cm, single straight line going deep under seals.. Have anyone been able to resolve what causes the marks and how to prevent them from appearing?

  53. #853
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    I had the stanchions score twice. I resolved the issue by getting a manitou mattoc. No scratched stanchions since.

  54. #854
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    The cure is new lowers. Nothing else apparently - I had mine replaced.

  55. #855
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    The cure is new lowers. Nothing else apparently - I had mine replaced.
    My warranty is out, do you know if i can buy new lowers somewhere?

  56. #856
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    Where are you based? In the UK I posted nine to Windwave. The cost was £70

  57. #857
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    Poland.. did they replace your lowers for 70£? It wasnt warranty replacement right?
    And lastly, did this help with the marks on lowers or did they appear again?

  58. #858
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    What do the marks look like? I have some lines on my NCR air stanchions but they are not really scratches or scoring. More like discolouration of the expresso coating. The marks line up nicely with the slots in the internal bushings on the lowers. The fork still works fine.

  59. #859
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    Thats how it looks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marzocchi - Better late than never-img_20170517_181122.jpg  

    Marzocchi - Better late than never-img_20170517_181137.jpg  


  60. #860
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    Quote Originally Posted by seankdebree View Post
    Hey I'm running a 650B 2.8" High Roller II with my 2014 350 CR with no clearance issues. May even be able to fit the 3.0".
    do you have the regular 350 fork or the Boost one? I'm liking the idea of 2.8 tires!!!

  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by hans2vt View Post
    do you have the regular 350 fork or the Boost one? I'm liking the idea of 2.8 tires!!!
    I'd love each to see a picture of this. I can't even run a fender with a 2.35 Magic mary in mine or a SE4 due to massive clearance issues.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  62. #862
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    I think this thread should be moved to "shocks and suspension".

    I recently put a 350 NCR on my Troy and have been completely and totally impressed with the performance of it.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  63. #863
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    I put a 350 NCR on my Patrol that I recently finished and am completely thrilled with it. I did a complete tear down when I got it to get familiar with it. Pretty easy to work on. Refreshed the oil, added some extra, and cleaned and greased the air spring. With any luck I'll get years of issue free service. Time will tell.
    2016 Transition Patrol
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  64. #864
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    Did you change the oil in the damper aswell?
    If so, what oil did you use? Or if you didnt, what oil did u put in the lowers?
    My NCR seems to be dry atm but i have no oil for the damper side as from what i understand theres a circulation between damper and lower legs oil from what i understood, im worried shit will break if i put different oil in lowers

  65. #865
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    I have had an NCR Air on my bike for around 2.5 years and it has been fantastic. Very supportive but still super plush and stiff. I change the oil in the lowers and grease the seals regularly. I have been using Fox 10-W oil or 7.5W motorcycle fork oil.

  66. #866
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    Did you change the damper oil everytime also or just the lowers?

  67. #867
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    The damper oil circulates so if you change the oil in the lower legs the damper oil will partly be changed as well. I do the lowers twice a year and after 2.5 year I still dont see any need for any damper service. I use thicker oil 80/90w in the air side lower leg.

  68. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skooks View Post
    I have had an NCR Air on my bike for around 2.5 years and it has been fantastic. Very supportive but still super plush and stiff.
    Coming off a Pike, the 350 NCR Air is beyond amazing. I'm just completely blown away with the performance. It's the best fork that I've ever ridden by a good margin.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  69. #869
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drybear View Post
    The damper oil circulates so if you change the oil in the lower legs the damper oil will partly be changed as well. I do the lowers twice a year and after 2.5 year I still dont see any need for any damper service. I use thicker oil 80/90w in the air side lower leg.

    What if i mix the oils? Dunno whats inside the damper at the moment but all i got is some motorex 5w oil atm

  70. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    What if i mix the oils? Dunno whats inside the damper at the moment but all i got is some motorex 5w oil atm
    I think the original oil is 7.5w but I use 5w on the damper side. Its not a problem to mix them, you might have to add a click on the compression/rebound with a thinner oil but thats all.

  71. #871
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    Did you change the oil in the damper aswell?
    If so, what oil did you use? Or if you didnt, what oil did u put in the lowers?
    My NCR seems to be dry atm but i have no oil for the damper side as from what i understand theres a circulation between damper and lower legs oil from what i understood, im worried shit will break if i put different oil in lowers
    I did not do any service to the damper. I just removed it and when I assembled I put around 40ml of Spectro 7.5 in the lower leg. 7.5wt is spec'd for the lower leg. Basicly the oil in the lower is used by the damper assembly during use. I don't know if it's a constant refresh of the oil or at a certain compression level. I'm thinking the latter.
    2016 Transition Patrol
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  72. #872
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeBurnsie View Post
    I did not do any service to the damper. I just removed it and when I assembled I put around 40ml of Spectro 7.5 in the lower leg. 7.5wt is spec'd for the lower leg. Basicly the oil in the lower is used by the damper assembly during use. I don't know if it's a constant refresh of the oil or at a certain compression level. I'm thinking the latter.
    You can hear a low sound on fast rebound strokes and I guess that is when it sucks the oil up and circulates it in the damper.

  73. #873
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    I use motorex 5W fork oil in my CR, both damper and air side. I can't be bothered dealing with two different oil weights. The 350 is so easy to service I'm sort of the opinion: why complicate things?

    That being said, I have mixed left over 5wt & 15wt rock oil to make a 7.5wt to put in the lowers when the stock Golden Spectro was in the damper. Everything worked fine, but the rock oil and molykote 55 do turn into a nasty gunk after a while.

    Marz used to spec 7.5W Golden Spectro with molykote 55 o-ring grease. Supposedly this combination won't gunk up the DBC, but I don't know what they spec since Fox took over.
    It's near on imposible to get Golden Spectro in my corner of the world, so I prefer to use a fork oil that has similar cSt rather than weight.

  74. #874
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    Allright, this got me pushed, ill strip my 350 today

  75. #875
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    Ok, done. So far its working good. One thing that makes me worry, theres a foam on the air shaft at the top, my seems to be torn apart, does anyone know how it affects the performance and where can i get new one?

  76. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    Ok, done. So far its working good. One thing that makes me worry, theres a foam on the air shaft at the top, my seems to be torn apart, does anyone know how it affects the performance and where can i get new one?
    Its there to keep some oil for lubricating the air piston. Put a few ml of oil inside the airspring cylinder and you will be fine.

  77. #877
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    Yeah i did so, i assume it can work just fine without it as long as it has the oil inside?
    Anyway, what custom mods are there available for MZ 350 ncr?

  78. #878
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I'm always rooting for Marzocchi. It would be cool to see them get more market share.
    agree. they had the best performing forks on the market around 2000. i would like to see a return simply because competition is wonderful when it comes to keeping prices in check.

  79. #879
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    Does anyone know the specs of the 350 negative coil? I've been nerding out on my fork lately and thinkin it would be even better with a longer negative coil. Especially since it's currently travel dropped to 150 anyway.

  80. #880
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    65mm as per the manual

  81. #881
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    No issues stanchions with my 2016 NCR air .. seems like marzocchi solved the issues

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by maclgallant View Post
    65mm as per the manual
    Spring rate?
    Rod diameter?
    Coil diameter?
    Coil spacing?

  83. #883
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    Well, I finally ordered a 2016 320 LCR for 27.5. I read this thread twice and I think I have a pretty good idea of what to do when it arrives.
    Since most posts are about the 350 series, I assume there might be some differences but hopefully not many.
    So, correct me If I'm wrong:
    1. New fork and just installed. If sticky and dry, ride it for a while, make sure it moves around so whatever factory grease and oil circulates and wakes the fork up. Reason for that would be because of how the DBC works.

    2. If still sticky, drop lowers, check oil levels, add as necessary (Anyone knows what oil the 2016 320 series use, so I can get the same one?), grease seals thoroughly with molykote 55. Anything else I should grease or add oil?

    3. Ride it again, stickiness should be solved. Set up fork for my liking and adjust oil level on air chamber if more progressivity is needed.

    Anything else?
    I have never taken a fork apart but i'm confident I can do a damn lower leg service as long as I follow instructions. If its not needed and the fork feels great out of the box, great.

  84. #884
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    Same question, exactle what names of oils tou use in left leg and right?
    At least few brands and their exact oils..
    OK

  85. #885
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    In my 350 NCR I'm using Golden Spectro 7.5 which I found at Niagara Cycles
    2016 Transition Patrol
    2011 Stump Jumper
    2005 Iron Horse Warrior

  86. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeBurnsie View Post
    I'm using Golden Spectro 7.5
    exactly where to?
    OK

  87. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    exactly where to?

    In the lower leg on the damper side, for your DBC, I put around 25ml in the air chamber to aid in progression, and 25 ml in the lower leg on the air side for splashing the bushings.
    2016 Transition Patrol
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  88. #888
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    I have been having some stiction problems with my new (new old stock) Marzocchi 44 Micro STA fork. I contacted fox (who has awesome customer service) and recieved the following reply,


    Please see my answers in red below. The timing of your email is excellent, I just met with reps from Marzocchi (Itally) two days ago and your questions are pertinent.

    Ed


    Hi,

    I am writing in hopes that you may be able to answer my 3 questions regarding the 2015 Marzocchi 44 Micro Switch TA fork. I have been searching for the answers for several days and have been hard pressed to find anything / get any responses. If you can't answer and I need to contact other folks I understand and appreciate your time

    Back ground on the fork, I bought it new about a month ago off of ebay as a new old stock item. It has no warranty that I am aware of and was slightly sticky brand new. Per several sites(one being the Marzocchi blogspot.se) that I have found I removed the lowers, drained all the factory oil out, packed slick honey in the area between the dust wipers and seals, greased the stachions, bushings and seals with slick honey, then refilled each leg with 20ml of Finish line 7.5wt oil. It was fantastic for about 2 rides.

    1. After sitting for about a week the fork now feels as though it has a lot of stiction throughout the travel range. It is most noticeable in the very beginning as it take considerably more pressure to get the fork to compress at the start on the travel than to keep the fork moving while “Bouncing” up and down. It is also noticeable if the fork is compressed part way held, then pressure added to compress the fork further. Is this normal?

    A. We have just found out from the Marzo engineers that the fox 20wt bath oil is now recommended over the original 7.5 wt oil as long as the fork’s damper is not an open bath damper. This new oil selection will definitely help the plushness of the fork.

    2. Is this just the break in period or do I need to drop the lowers again and replace the oil with golden spectro or similar and relube the system with slick honey?

    A. Refer to my answer to #1, you should not need to add the slick honey, it will just wash away after the fork cycles up and down a few times.

    3. If I need to replace the oil should I use a lower weight?

    A. Back to answer # 1


    Now do be careful here as the 44 is a sealed cartridge system, and the use of the heavier oil only comes into play for those forks that have sealed cartridges. So if you have a sticky fork and its a sealed cartridge give this a try. I can verify that it works.

  89. #889
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    2015 - 350 NCR - 160 2015 | Forks - Marzocchi MTB Suspension
    Marzocchi 350 NCR
    Fork is making wistles when coming up.
    When Rebound is rotated fully to "-" almost no wistlee, but if rotate it to "+" it became more and more louder.
    Any suggestions, please?
    OK

  90. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    2015 - 350 NCR - 160 2015 | Forks - Marzocchi MTB Suspension
    Marzocchi 350 NCR
    Fork is making wistles when coming up.
    When Rebound is rotated fully to "-" almost no wistlee, but if rotate it to "+" it became more and more louder.
    Any suggestions, please?
    Its normal on these forks, I guess the sound is when the damper circulates oil from the lower leg. Its music in the rock gardens

  91. #891
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    After some experimenting here are my tips for significantly decreasing the initial stiction in 350 CR forks......

    1. Use a minimum 15wt oil in the air side lower leg.

    2. Use a minimum 15wt oil in the air chamber if you're tuning spring rate . If you're like me and choose not to, still add only 1-2ml 15wt oil just to lube the air position and seals.

    3. Chamfer the top and bottom corners of the Air piston head with a Utility knife (remember to remove the seals first so you don't cut them). The 350 air piston head has a very square corner on it. The chamfering will help reduce fiction between the piston head and the air tube. It will also help the oil to get to seal.


    4. Roughen the whole piston head with some 240 grit sand paper.... "if a surface is too smooth there is nowhere for the oil to stick to to the surface"..


    5. Pack the air piston head seal grooves with grease before reinstalling the seals. RWC super slick grease seems to work much better than molykote 55 for greasing the piston head and seals.

  92. #892
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    Well, eventually the only thing that helped my 350cr was buying almost new 350r for 150$.
    Things I've noticed right away:
    1. Old lowers with used seals and bushings are sliding on new uppers(with simple anodizing) like a charm, no sticktion at all. But probably going to stick to new lowers cause there are some visible damage on the old bushings
    2. New lowers on old uppers with fading gold race coating could even hardly move...
    3. Rebound piston on almost new 350R sometimes gets stuck when pushed in (fastest rebound, properly bled). I've never seen this on my CR and it seems odd considering R and CR share the same rebound piston and damper tube.

    So basically I've put my CR damper into the new R coil fork.
    Greased bushings with a cocktail of Mobil XHP222 grease and 10w-40 motor oil.
    Greased the oil seals with Molykote 55.
    Put foam rings soaked in oil between the dust and oil seals like it was in older Marz forks.
    Put motor oil into coil leg and damper oil into damper leg.

    Yes, there is initial sticktion, but considering that old lowers work great on new uppers it will probably go away after some time.

    Now I need to decide between air or coil spring, but for now I like that coil feel.

  93. #893
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    Hello.
    Few questions about my new Marzocchi 350 NCR 2016 http://www.marzocchi.com/System/2950...NCR_RF1-00.pdf
    So, fork disassembled. I'v got Molykote 55 grease, Motorex FETT 2000 grease, Castrol Moly Grease with Molibdenum, Motul Fork Oil Light Medium SAE 7.5W.





    1) What grease to use when lubing the rod (#50 datasheet, #3 my photo)?
    https://youtu.be/HLnY-Gap-1M?t=327 - here he uses some dense grease (and a lot of it). When I disassembled my fork there was more fluid grease.
    https://youtu.be/bUBF5gjdR9w?t=554 - here he didn't even use any grease...

    If somebody will advise to grease with Molykote 55 - is it so? I mean, that grease is very expensive, I thought it should be used in some other places where we need a little bit of grease...



    2) I didn't change oils seals and dust seals in lower legs. Should I grease them (inner diammeter of each seal)? With what? Molykote 55?



    3) Where and how much to pour the oil?
    https://youtu.be/bUBF5gjdR9w?t=710 - he pourred some quantity to each lower leg (I don't understand how it didn't came out?..); and some quantity of oil to stanchion where after that he will put in air chamber https://youtu.be/bUBF5gjdR9w?t=871
    https://youtu.be/HLnY-Gap-1M?t=496 - he pourrer 20cc into air chamber and 15cc into stanchion with DBC.
    OK

  94. #894
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    Ka81ua

    I haven't used the lubes you have other than molykote 55. Molykote 55 seems to be asbsorbed into the oil quite quickly. But:

    1. Lube the seals and piston head with a denser grease then Molykote 55. I've got much better results with RWC Superslick rather then Molykote 55.
    Any grease on the spring and rod under the piston head if you feel like it. But it essentially does nothing but potentially keep the noise level down and the rust away. There is no seal between the rod and the base plate (where the cir-clip is) anyway, so any lube on the rod is irrelevant.

    2. I still have original 2016 CR seals installed with probably 150hrs or more on them, which probably sacrilegious to some, but they don't leak so I don't worry about changing them. I don't use the foam ring, never have. I do have Molykote 55 packed into all the inside groves of the seals and the gap between the oil seal and dust wipers.
    But to be honest, I suspect that greasing the seals does nothing but help you reassemble the forks, it all comes down to the bath oil.
    3. I only kind of follow the videos for lubes (the reason the oil doesn't come out is the bottom bolts have been reinstalled sealing the lowers before he puts the oil in). Usually I reinstall the lowers onto the stanchions, invert and put 25ml 15-20 wt oil in the bolt hole on the air side and 30ml 5-7.5wt in the DBC side.

    1-2ml (because I don't need more progression on spring curve) 15-20wt oil in the air tube through the valve core just to lube the air piston seals. Supergliss or RWC air position oil are supposed to be the best for this.

    Hope this helped. I read somewhere the reason Marz originally said molykote 55 grease, is cause it didn't gunk up the DBC when it mixed with golden Spectro oil like other greases did.

  95. #895
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    New question here.

    Marzocchi 350 NCR
    fork scheme

    Question about #84 (5321504/P FIXING NUT SLV STA/ATA TOP SEAL) and #41(8032290/P CARTRIDGE DBC NCR REBOUND UNIT 160)


    So, trying to assemble it. When nut is almost fixed on rod - rod is starting to round and round and .. So I cannot finish that job. What to do?
    OK

  96. #896
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    thats just the oil passing through the rebound damper (100% normal)

  97. #897
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    what is normal???
    I CANNOT fit tight that nut.
    OK

  98. #898
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    So, trying to assemble it. When nut is almost fixed on rod - rod is starting to round and round and .. So I cannot finish that job. What to do?
    Engage the lockout, push down on the fork lowers, and that should give you enough friction to stop the rod from spinning so you can tighten the nut.

  99. #899
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    max tire width

  100. #900
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    i was referring to the whistle sound

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