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  1. #1
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    Major headset issue!! Help!

    Ok. I think my bearings have went kapoot on my Carrera Kraken. Its booked in for a service at the end of the month. I was going to buy a headset to send away with it to be fitted. I know from experience and through a few forum threads that the headsets in these bikes aren't up to much so I've decided to get on top of it before its too late .

    My issue lies with what headset to get?? Im pretty new to MTBing and have no clue about this kind of thing. From online specs, it says my bike has a semi 1.1/8 integrated headset. Does this mean I have to buy another 1.1/8 semi integrated headset to replace this or can I go ahead and buy a threadless headset and have that fitted by the shop easily enough to the bike??? ... I need this dumbed down also, what type of headsets are best??


    I'd appreciate some help by people who know what they're talking about when it comes to this kind of thing. The relevant bike specs are as follows... They're not as detailed as I'd like them to be hence the reason I'm so confuse rn.

    Forks: SUNTOUR XCR-32 LO COIL 27.5'' - 1.1/8 Steerer
    Headset: 1.1/8 Semi Integrated

  2. #2
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    All modern headsets are threadless. Only difference now is size of the headtube (bottom and top) and whether each end is integrated (flush with headtube) or not.

    Most headtubes are tapered now with 44mm on the top and 49mm on the bottom. There are some variations though. Some are still 1 1/8 all the way through, some are 1 1/2 all the way.

    Chris King headsets are good, so are Wolf Tooth. Both are $100+. A cheaper option would be a Cane Creek headset.

  3. #3
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    so say I bought this 1.1/8 Threadless FSA headset. Would the shop be able to fit this onto my bike thats currently running a 1.1/8'' Semi-integrated Headset?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FSA-Orbit...Tl9&rmvSB=true


    unfortunately I don't know any measurements of my steering tube (headtube), the specifications on my bike aren't really as in depth as most with the info I can find online

    this Headset Malarky is pretty confusing ahaha

  4. #4
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    Idea!

    SHXDORIDER420 - Looks like your headset may be semi-integrated and is threadless.

    What is causing you to think your bearings went kapoot? Is there rocking/play in your headset? If so, you may just need to tighten your top cap. (I would try this first rather than spend money on a new headset.) To do this, loosen your stem bolts and top cap bolts. Make sure your handle bars are straight and torque your top cap to spec. If you don't know, it should be tight enough that you can still turn your handlebars without it being stiff but not loose enough that your bars move without turning your wheel - around 5NM. Make sure you compress the assembly while tightening. After you tighten your top cap, torque your stem bolts, should be about 5-8NM and is probably listed on your stem.

    If there is still play, your frame may need to be looked at by a shop.

    The Headset Malarky is confusing because MFRs have different ways of prepping frames to turn your wheel. It gets as complicated making sure the angle and depth of the crown race seat are exactly the rights size for the bearing race... If you have doubts, rather than spend money and risk purchasing the wrong thing, go to a shop, tell them your price point, and let them install it. I would not recommend you buy a $150 headset for this bike, it just isn't practical for your bike.

    For kicks, this is how a LBS would do it:

    https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eadset-service
    Focus on technique and save the puking for later. - L. McCormack

  5. #5
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    I'm getting a rocking within my frame sadly enough I tried rightening up my top cap. No help. I'd say I know enough about bikes to be able to confirm its 110% the bearings.

    Your probably right, I'll take it into the shop and let them deal with it lol. , I'm not even going to risk it... The headset I was going to put on is a FSA Orbit MX... around 30 or something. Nothing too steep. I wouldn't pay anything for upgrades that cost half the price of the actual bike.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHXDOWRIDER420 View Post
    so say I bought this 1.1/8 Threadless FSA headset. Would the shop be able to fit this onto my bike thats currently running a 1.1/8'' Semi-integrated Headset?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FSA-Orbit...Tl9&rmvSB=true


    unfortunately I don't know any measurements of my steering tube (headtube), the specifications on my bike aren't really as in depth as most with the info I can find online

    this Headset Malarky is pretty confusing ahaha
    No, that won't fit. Most likely the head tube on your bike is a 44mm inner diameter as mentioned above. Semi-integrated means it has a cup pressed into the frame that the bearing sits in, all contained in the head tube. The one you linked is 34mm with a cup, plus the bearing sits outside the frame. It's for (mostly older) smaller diameter head tubes.

    1 1/8" is the diameter of the fork steerer tube.

    Quote Originally Posted by SHXDOWRIDER420 View Post
    I'm getting a rocking within my frame sadly enough I tried rightening up my top cap. No help. I'd say I know enough about bikes to be able to confirm its 110% the bearings.

    Your probably right, I'll take it into the shop and let them deal with it lol. , I'm not even going to risk it... The headset I was going to put on is a FSA Orbit MX... around 30 or something. Nothing too steep. I wouldn't pay anything for upgrades that cost half the price of the actual bike.
    Having explained a few basics, I'm really wondering if it's the bearings at all. Did you loosen the stem bolts BEFORE you tightened the top cap? If not, it won't fix anything. I'm sure it's all in that link above. The order is:

    Loosen stem bolts. Tighten top cap until snug. Check for no play in headset. Make sure stem is still straight and tighten stem bolts. Double check for play. If it's still there, go back and do it all again. Easy peasy.

  7. #7
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    Yes, I'll second noapathy here - easy peasy. I'd at least make sure you tightened the top cap bolt and stem bolts correctly before taking it in. As long as the sequence is correct it may fix the problem eliminating the hassle of taking it to LBS - plus you learned how to do something on your bike (which can be part of the fun of owning one).
    Focus on technique and save the puking for later. - L. McCormack

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