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  1. #1
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    Kona Precept 150 (2017) Weight Reduction

    Hi everyone!

    I own a Kona Precept 150 from 2017 and I'm very happy with this bike.
    The only issue I see with this bike is the weight. Compared with my old hardtail (about 10,5kg) the Kona is much more heavy: 15,7kg.

    I was wondering if you have any proposals for weight reductions.

    My budget is around 1000 to 1500CAD. I'm ready to invest this money since I got the bike for free.

    What was confusing me the most is the weight of the wheels. While my old wheels at the hardtail almost weighted nothing, the wheels of the Kona are very heavy.. is it the tires or the rims?

    I hope you can help me to improve my bike a bit and reduce a couple of gramms.

    Thanks!


    REAR SHOCK RockShox Monarch RT
    FORK Suntour Aion Air 150mm Tapered
    CRANKARMS RaceFace Ride
    CHAINRINGS 30t Narrow/wide
    B/B RaceFace
    PEDALS RaceFace Cester
    CHAIN SRAM PC1110
    FREEWHEEL SRAM PG1130 11-42t 11spd
    CHAINGUIDE n/a
    F/D n/a
    R/D SRAM NX
    SHIFTERS SRAM NX
    BRAKE CALIPERS Shimano Acera
    FRONT BRAKE ROTOR Shimano 180mm (centerlock)
    REAR BRAKE ROTOR Shimano 180mm (centerlock)
    BRAKE LEVERS Shimano Hydraulic
    HEADSET FSA No.57B
    HANDLEBAR Kona XC/BC 35
    STEM Kona XC/BC 35
    SEATPOST KS Eten R 31.6mm
    SEAT CLAMP Kona QR
    GRIPS Kona S-LOG
    SADDLE Kona XC
    FRONT HUB Shimano Deore 100x15mm
    REAR HUB Shimano Deore 142x12mm
    SPOKES Standard Stainless Black 14g
    RIMS WTB SX25
    FRONT TIRE Maxxis High Roller II 27.5x2.40"
    REAR TIRE Maxxis High Roller II 27.5x2.40"

  2. #2
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    Lighter wheels and going tubeless, if not already done, will realize the greatest performance increase.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  3. #3
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    Why do you want to reduce the weight? I don't advise going down that rabbit hole unless you are racing. After all, the process is an Enduro bike, I believe. This only means it's going to be heavier than your hardtail.
    @curveball has a great suggestion - a good hand-built tubeless wheel set would be where I would spend your money and then replace as you wear out/break things.

  4. #4
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    IF you want to toss some coin into the bike a new/used fork and rear shock are always my favorite places to start.

    SLX brakes & a dropper would be next.

    Then smoking great deals for anything else from ebay or super sales.

    I strongly recommend performance based upgrades rather than chasing grams, makes for a better riding experience rather than picking up the bike and feeling that it's 300 grams lighter.

  5. #5
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    Those tires roll really slow. If you go to faster tires you will notice the biggest difference. I would try something like vittoria morsa 2.3 if you don't have a lot of rocks. minion dhr2 2.3 if you have lots of rocks. They are much faster tires than the minion.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curveball View Post
    Lighter wheels and going tubeless, if not already done, will realize the greatest performance increase.
    Nitrol ^this^ sums up the best advice you're getting here. Dumping heavy wheel/tire combo is the biggest performance gain possible. The bike will accelerate/turn/brake so much better with a light wheelset.
    After you get up to speed and are really using your suspension, a good fork and shock will make a difference too. If you are doing it right Shimano SLX or XT brakes will make a difference you'll notice too.
    oops I wasn't clipped in

  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the helpful comments. I think you are right with not looking only at the weight but also on performance. So I picked 2 parts that I donít feel comfortable with at the moment.
    Itís the dropper seat post: very slow and the rise is not enough to have the seat low and high enough. Any suggestions for a affordable carbon dropper with more than 100mm?

    The other component is the handlebar. I need a bit more rise, so Iím looking for a carbon handlebar.

    Next modification will be the tubeless. I think itís a good idea even besides the weight reduction. Iíll look also into other tires. The high roller 2 are at 1,3kg each. Mostly Iím riding in dirt with some smooth rocks. So I think a lighter option would be ok?

    Again, thanks!

  8. #8
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    I've been riding mountain bikes for most of my life. Heavily modifying them for 20 years.

    Forget about carbon, you'll be doing yourself a favor. Seriously, I know it's tough.

    Bars, look at back country or competitive cyclist for https://www.competitivecyclist.com/d...l-38-riser-bar also available in 25mm rise. https://www.competitivecyclist.com/d...xhYmVsIDI1bW0=

    Dropper, what you'll want to do is measure the distance from the seat rail with the seat at perfect long climb height. Compare that to it's height fully slammed into the frame. You could provide get by with a 150 or more. I'm happy with my reverb but fox and others make good stuff. Also make sure that the part will fit into the frame some posts have longer bottoms than others.

    No carbon. None.

    Oh and always sign in to www.activejunky.com and click on whichever online store you're going to buy from and then buy. It'll save what you've got in the cart and you can get money back.... Usually 6-8% paid back every 90 days or so. https://www.activejunky.com/invite/770652 sad I didn't find this until this year.

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