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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie_MTB View Post
    How do you shim the shock and have you ever had any problems with it?

    Regarding the BB height; if its the same geo as HD 140 (343mm bb) + 12.7mm, then its +3.7mm over the HD160 (352mm).

    3.7mm doesn't sound a massive difference or am i missing something?
    Jamie, what you're saying is correct if you're trying to compare an HD140 with 650b wheels to a HD160 w/ 26" wheels....then there's not much difference in bb height. But if you want to compare 140 to 160, both with 650b wheels, then you have to add the same 12.7mm to both bb heights. StiHacka's info isn't duff, it's spot on. You should listen to him, he's made the conversion in reality, not just on a calculator.

  2. #302
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    Well Ibis made me jump the gun to get my 650 wheelset built (I have had all the parts since august) pronto by making the ordering deadline by the 31st. I have been riding my old steel 26" hardtail to curtail me doing anything stupid, going too fast, taking any chances, or just ****ing up my fractured wrist. I went on my first 650b ride today and it was just awesome. Running a rear 2.25 Ardent/Front 2.35 HD. My bike is the 135 x 12 rear axle. My fork is set at 170 travel. I run 35% sag with a pushed Monarch RT for now. I haven't shimmed my rear shock yet. Since I am still rehabbing my broken arm (broken in August cast came off 5 weeks ago) I knew I wasn't going to ride hard enough or drop down anything too technical or sketchy to use all the rear travel. By my calculations I will be losing .5" of travel (it isn't really to protect the seat tube but for the pesky front derailleur cable. If it was just for the ST I would go with .4"). Set-up this way it felt almost like my 29er. I had too remove one 2mm spacer from the stack. The way it rolls over everything with a flair of invincibility. I really didn't even feel a change with the higher BB. Perhaps because I run 35% sag? But After my first stretch of single track I looked at my rear shock and was worried I may tag the shifting cable. I added air to change the sag to 30% and I than felt a slight difference with the BB height. Also there was no change in feeling when climbing steep technical singletrack. I will be most likely changing to a CCDBA. I just need to send it off to suspension works so they can shim it and change me over to a ghetto CS switch.

    As far as the rear triangle goes.......... I want it real bad so I can have the perfect set-up. But financially it just isn't a sound decision. The ardent is tight, but it does clear. Where I ride there really isn't any mud. The HD is technically my back-up bike. Also as some one said its not just the rear triangle. It is the rear triangle, plus new rear axle, plus sales tax, plus shipping. My frame I purchased used for $800. All in I would be $750-800 for a new rear triangle. At that price point I might as well bite the bullit and sell my HD and get a new HDR. Speaking of a new HDR my LBS has an HDR 650B on the sales floor and looking at the tire clearance I would say there is maybe a half inch of difference. Really just does not seem worth it to me.

    On a side note my bike lost almost 2lbs changing to 650B. I used the light cycle rims, Sapim CX-ray spokes, Sapim Nipples. AC 225 rear hub, atom lab Pimplite front hub(BTW this hub is much lighter than any other 20mm hub out there and convertible to any axle standard). My wheelset weighed 1460 grams (My 29er is 1470 grams). I still have a couple more changes to make before the build is finalized. I am going to go 2 x 9 and I picked up some used race face next cranks (last years model)

    Anyway I think I am getting side tracked. I applaud Ibis for offering the new rear triangle. If money was no object I would jump on it. But I haven't worked since August due to the busted arm and money is scarce right now. Even if it wasn't I would probably pass. Also for the cost I could buy a new x-fusion or a pike for my 29er. Now that would be bad-a$$
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 650b Mojo HD ... Heavy Duty-image.jpg  

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  3. #303
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    Hi Dusty
    So you say go with the Ibis HD and use it for 650b and get 140/150mm rear travel because it have more tire space (to the seat tube) ?

    I am looking for a 650b but would like the 140mm. (with a shimmed down 160mm rear shock)
    160mm is ok but I rarely used it on my old bike. (33% sag) But I would like the 650b and Ibis
    Really confused.....
    Thanks

  4. #304
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    Hi Dusty and others
    So you say go with the Ibis HD and use it for 650b and get 140/150mm rear travel because it have more tire space (to the seat tube) ?

    I am looking for a 650b but would like the 140mm. (with a shimmed down 160mm rear shock)
    160mm is ok but I rarely used it on my old bike. (33% sag Covert Carbon) But I would like the 650b and Ibis
    Really confused.....
    Thanks

  5. #305
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    looking at a couple new rear tires, been liking the scwalbe products but they wear out well too fast.
    Do you guys think the new 650b 2.3 specialized purgatory will fit in the rear chainstay?
    What about the new 650b conti trail king 2.2?
    murray

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrdogg11 View Post
    looking at a couple new rear tires, been liking the scwalbe products but they wear out well too fast.
    Do you guys think the new 650b 2.3 specialized purgatory will fit in the rear chainstay?
    What about the new 650b conti trail king 2.2?
    murray
    I tried the Continental Trail King 2.2 as a rear tire but doesn't fit well. Actually the trail king has some hair (fringes) as new tire who touch the rear triangle making noice and slowing the tire. It is so close. I had to change it with a High Roller 2 2.3.

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by vassot View Post
    I tried the Continental Trail King 2.2 as a rear tire but doesn't fit well. Actually the trail king has some hair (fringes) as new tire who touch the rear triangle making noice and slowing the tire. It is so close. I had to change it with a High Roller 2 2.3.
    I finally used the Pacenti Neo moto 2.3. It fits OK, no issues.

  8. #308
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    Anyone know if the new specialized 2.3 650b purgatory tire will fit on the mojo hd? Getting real tired of replacing my scwalbes too often.

  9. #309
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    [QUOTE=murrdogg11;11143139]Anyone know if the new specialized 2.3 650b purgatory tire will fit on the mojo hd? Getting real tired of replacing my scwalbes too often.[/]

    Specialized tires has a money back guarantee. Why not be the guinea pig and let us know if it fits?
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  10. #310
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    has anyone tried these 27.5 tires on their mojo hd?
    wanting to know if they will fit in the chain stay.
    conti trail king 2.2
    maxxis dhrII 2.3
    specialized purgatory 2.3
    thanks

  11. #311
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    I'm running a purgatory 2.3 on my HDR. It fits fine, but I'm not sure how different the HD is. I would judge, from looks alone, that the purgatory is a tiny bit smaller than the Maxxis ardent 2.25 I had on previously, if that helps you.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrdogg11 View Post
    has anyone tried these 27.5 tires on their mojo hd?
    specialized purgatory 2.3
    Here is your answer: HK ? View topic - HK's random 650b / 27.5" thread

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by StiHacka View Post
    awesome thanks!

  14. #314
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    Hi guys

    I have a Mojo HD and a CCDBA running 26" wheels with Magic Mary on the rear. I had to add a volume spacer to the CCDB as it rubbed the frame under heavy hits but now no problems.

    I would like to try 650b on it - whose done it with the CCDBAir ? Worth the money of new wheels? Will I need to change shock if I get the 140mm limbo chips?! Or can I just add more volume spacers?

    Ta!

  15. #315
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    650b Mojo HD ... Heavy Duty-10520692_10152566675821352_3006020011413430571_n.jpg

  16. #316
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    Tires changed since this pic :-)

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Baker View Post
    Hi guys

    I have a Mojo HD and a CCDBA running 26" wheels with Magic Mary on the rear. I had to add a volume spacer to the CCDB as it rubbed the frame under heavy hits but now no problems.

    I would like to try 650b on it - whose done it with the CCDBAir ? Worth the money of new wheels? Will I need to change shock if I get the 140mm limbo chips?! Or can I just add more volume spacers?

    Ta!
    Looks like you have a Gen 2 HD with the sculpted seat tube (like the current HDR). If I recall the MM is a beefy tire but I'm still kinda surprised you have contact. With 27.5 the general consensus is a 2.3" is about as large as you'd want to go. As for the shock do a quick search of 650b HD and you'll find what your looking for but I'm fairly sure you can stay with you current shock and limbo chips with the appropriate internal shims. I think STIHACKA is doing just that.

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Baker View Post
    I would like to try 650b on it - whose done it with the CCDBAir ? Worth the money of new wheels? Will I need to change shock if I get the 140mm limbo chips?! Or can I just add more volume spacers?

    Ta!
    Sorry I have no experience with the CCDBA, but you will have to restrict the shock stroke not to break your seat tube in bigger hits. If you tire rubs now in the 26" mode, imagine what a tire with 1/2" bigger diameter might do.

    If you get the 140mm chips, you have to get a new shock - 7.785"x2.0" is the official size, many people successfully experimented with 7.785"x2.25" for a bit more travel.

  19. #319
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    My HD still runs strong. 800mm bars, WT 11,16-40 x MRP 32T + Zee RD drive train, Zee brakes, Avy DHX5 coil shock, Vengeance HLR Air + Derby rims == still a very killer machine. I would not recommend anyone go with the Zee RD & 11-40 cassette though, it barely works on my crazy setup with a zero margin for error.





    PS: the Conti MK II 2.2 Black Chili tire in the rear is rubbish and has been replaced since.

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Baker View Post
    Hi guys

    I have a Mojo HD and a CCDBA running 26" wheels with Magic Mary on the rear. I had to add a volume spacer to the CCDB as it rubbed the frame under heavy hits but now no problems.

    I would like to try 650b on it - whose done it with the CCDBAir ? Worth the money of new wheels? Will I need to change shock if I get the 140mm limbo chips?! Or can I just add more volume spacers?

    Ta!
    This was my set-up with the CCDBA (8.5 x 2.5) & 650B wheels.

    I had these settings and I used the large volume sleeve.

    My CCDBA settings are:

    HSR-2.5
    LSR-17
    LSC-11
    HSC-2.5

    I never bottomed with the above settings but at the time I also don't jump. I take some occasional drops. Just keep playing with it. My rear tire was an Ardent 2.25. If you do want to know some info about shimming the CCDBA shoot me a PM.
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  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by spunkmtb View Post
    This was my set-up with the CCDBA (8.5 x 2.5) & 650B wheels.

    I had these settings and I used the large volume sleeve.

    My CCDBA settings are:

    HSR-2.5
    LSR-17
    LSC-11
    HSC-2.5

    I never bottomed with the above settings but at the time I also don't jump. I take some occasional drops. Just keep playing with it. My rear tire was an Ardent 2.25. If you do want to know some info about shimming the CCDBA shoot me a PM.
    Cheers Spunkmtb

    I have put a small blue volume sleeve in there already - its just more of these isn't it (he hopes :-)).

    If its that simple then I am after a set of 650b wheels soon :-)

    Am looking at switching the lyrik for a 650b Pike already so thats cool. Did it ride ok without the 140 limbo chips then?

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Baker View Post
    Cheers Spunkmtb

    I have put a small blue volume sleeve in there already - its just more of these isn't it (he hopes :-)).

    If its that simple then I am after a set of 650b wheels soon :-)

    Am looking at switching the lyrik for a 650b Pike already so thats cool. Did it ride ok without the 140 limbo chips then?
    My set-up was 650B 160 Pike up front & the LT in the rear. I never tried it in 140 mode. Word of advice. Put some helicopter tape or any tape on the seat-tube to protect for the inevitable accidental contact until you do get it all sorted out.

    Out of all the shocks I tried (Fox & RS) the CCDBA was the best shock performance wise. I just purchased the DB Inline and was going to put it n my HD but I picked up a used Pivot Mach 6. So my HD is going up for sale.

    But to answer your question it was that simple. The Volume spacers really made a huge difference in helping with the ramp up. Enjoy and let me know if you have anymore questions. I will try and help out.
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  23. #323
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    Cheers!

    I haven't had any bottom out with the one reducer in the can. I have taped the rear of the seattube :-) Twice :-)

    So a few more of these would help reduce travel enough for the 650b wheelset? With the anglset (-1.5) would you recommend a 160mm or 150mm Pike? Shame my Lyrik wont clear a 650b fork.

  24. #324
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    160 pike. No angleset. For a while I ran a 170 36. Made it feel like a Mac truck. But a 2.35 650b Hans Damp cleared with no problem. Running the 160 fork it felt like a solid very aggressive trail bike. I found the head angle to be perfect. At least for where I ride where the climbs & descents are loose steep and rocky. I would try riding without the anglesey first and see how you like it. Again I would recommend going with the 160 Pike. I personally like having the extra travel up front & it felt balanced between the front and the rear. If you can't get the volume reducers on your side of the pond, PM me and we can work something out.
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  25. #325
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    Cheers again. The angleset iis in there already so may leave it in for now. I have two more volume reducing sleeves so shouldnt need any more but thats great of you to offer!
    We have wet rooty and some steep climbs with similar downs here apart from on the trail centres :-)

  26. #326
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    I am running a DBAir CS and 650B I have ridden 650 both with the 160 patch and then the 140 CC with and without the extended rear triangle from ibis. link at the bottom to my build thread
    650b-elieve

    Here's mine
    [url]http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/murdered-ibis-mojo-hd3-980806.html[/

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Baker View Post
    Shame my Lyrik wont clear a 650b fork.
    The Lyrik *will* clear a 2.3 Neo Moto, I was riding it for a few months before getting a Vengeance. It is a tight fit though.


  28. #328
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    Cheers guys. The build thread is very interesting reading! Think it looks too tight for the lyrik conisdering the current weather and the size of the Magic Mary...will look at swapping out the fork first then wheels.

    I am going to keep the insanely awesome ccdb air and add some more volume reducer sleeves in. I have the sculpted rear tube so with the shims it looks (from what I have read thus far) like I will be onto a win win.

    Would love to ride someones if anyone down south Uk has done this conversion to their HD?

  29. #329
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    StiHacka: How do you find the BB height running the HD with 650B at 160mm?
    Do you ever find the extra 1/2 inch height (over the 26/160) makes the bike too high or unstable?
    Thanks

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    StiHacka: How do you find the BB height running the HD with 650B at 160mm?
    Do you ever find the extra 1/2 inch height (over the 26/160) makes the bike too high or unstable?
    Thanks
    I never rode it with 26" wheels so I cannot compare, but I find the higher BB manageable. I used some tricks to get the BB down a bit (offset bushings, shock spacers to limit travel, shorter fork) but it is still over 14". On my NE trails, the stability is not much of an issue, but standover height definitely is (especially when your foot is hunting for ground in a technical terrain). If/when I am buying a new frame, the high BB will be the #1 reason to do so.

  31. #331
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    I finally get a 650B Mojo HD

    Hey Guys,

    I've been wanting an new wheelset for a long time and I finally bit the bullet and bought the parts to build my first wheelset.

    So here it is.

    2013 Mojo HD 160
    XT build
    XT brakes with 203mm rotors
    Cromag 780 wide bars
    Hussefelt 40mm stem
    X-Fusion Vengeance HLR DLA fork 20mm axle
    CCDBAir shock w/ 6mm of travel limit washers
    160mm chips


    NukeProof Generator Hubs 20mm Fr/142 Rr
    DT Swiss champion spokes w/silver brass nipples
    Velocity Blunt 35 Rims
    Maxxis Ardent 2.4 evo Front tyre
    Mavic CrossRoc Roam 2.2 Rear tyre

    The CrossRoc is small casing and fits with plenty of room.
    I get 145mm of travel and plenty of spaces between the tyre and seat tube. I may be able to remove a 2mm washer.

    I'm very happy with this combination.



    Ardent 2.4 Left/ CrossRoc Roam 2.2 Right

  32. #332
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    looks pretty sweet how did you shim the CCDBair to limit travel? I have one and have put spacers in the air can but seems as though I need to send to a shop to install shims to limit travel ….

  33. #333
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    Ccdb air travel limit shimming

    Hi MTB hombre

    Unfortunately you do have to remove the shock from the bike to shim a CCDB Air.

    Remove shock, release the air pressure and remove the outer air can.
    Clean up any grease or residue on the inner air can so that it can be gripped.

    To remove the inner can
    A: you can insert a Philips head screw driver in to the eye and grip the air can and screw it out.
    This can be difficult to do without some sort of clamp on the inner can.
    Once it is unscrewed and free from the eyelet install back into the frame.

    OR

    B: What I did at this point was install the shock back in the frame without the outer air can.
    Gripped the inner can with my hands and twisted.



    The inner can will still be on the shock but you can pull it back away from the eyelet and insert the spacers between the oring and eyelet.
    Note: there may still be negative pressure to contend with, the inner can may want to return to the eyelet.

    Test the clearance between the tyre and seat tube, you want about 5mm.

    I would recommend 6mm (1/4”) of shims.

    I tried 4mm of shims and had about 3mm of clearance but bottoming out during riding resulted in seat tube rub.
    And that was with a maxxis crossmark 2.1 tyre.

    Once you are satisfied with the clearance, screw the inner can back into the eyelet
    Remove the shock, add some light grease to the orings on the inner can, install the outer can, and install the shock back into the frame and pump up the pressure.

    Here is a video showing the shock completely disassembled, you see how the inner can, outer can and eyelet go together at 1:05.
    2012 Cane Creek Double Barrel Air DBAir Shock Review - YouTube
    Last edited by Xenocatalyst; 11-27-2014 at 07:53 PM.

  34. #334
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    Thanks Xeno, Brillant, that helps a lot!

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    Damn, my HD saga continues. I just bought a "like new" 2014 HDR frame size L for 1/2 of the HD3 $. Some of the deals our there are impossible to let pass.

  36. #336
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    I have my 2012 Mojo HD160/650b for sale on ebay and CL bay area, gotta save my clams for HD3!

  37. #337
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    i had asked on this thread if a 27.5, 2.2 continental trail king protection would fit in the rear of a HD,
    and it does, barely. looks to be a touch less clearance than a 2.25 hans dampf.
    Unfortunately, it seems to pick up a lot more rocks and my rear triangle is getting worked.
    Think i'll have to go back to a nobby nic or hans damp 2.25.

  38. #338
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    i love running hans dampf 2.25 on the rear and am uk mud, ****, snow, grubby rider....

    am confident shimming the shock (CCDBA)

    am still considering 650b wheel conversion.....will i CURSE mud clearance?

  39. #339
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    650b Mojo HD ... Heavy Duty

    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Baker View Post
    i love running hans dampf 2.25 on the rear and am uk mud, ****, snow, grubby rider....

    am confident shimming the shock (CCDBA)

    am still considering 650b wheel conversion.....will i CURSE mud clearance?
    You might. You won't have a lot of mud clearance..... Should probably be expecting the chainstays to get scratched up.

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