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  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by deofour View Post
    I need some help from you guys that have kept me up nights foaming at the mouth over these Mojo Hd converts.
    So here is what I am thinking and so what if my kid can't go to college. I just stole a barely used 13 fox talas 160 27.5 on ebay and want to pair it with a fresh Mojo Hd frame from my lbs. I am also thinking wtf why not go for the Enve AM 650b hoops with king hubs while I'm at it.

    Should I order the 140 or the 160 Mojo Hd? If I go 140 how will the 160 on the front need to be shimmed if at all?

    RP23 for the rear?

    Anybody have experience with anything coming from Enve?

    I'm in CT, I ride local rocky technical stuff and hit Blue MT in NY and possibly MT Creek once I have the right hardware.

    Thanks in advance
    Forks rarely if ever need to be shimmed to limit bottom travel if 650b clears the arch.

    The HD140 does clear 650b with no shock shims... just pug and play with 650b wheels. Ibis has publicly sanctioned the HD140 for 650b use.

    But the HD140 really doesn't like using a fixed travel fork at more than 150mm travel for good trail handling balance for most conditions with the speed of the 140mm travel, although with low handle bars a 160mm fork can work just fine with a 140mm travel frame, particularly for rocky rough downhill sections.

    The HD160 set up with 650b needs 1/8th inch to 1/4 inch bottom travel limiting shims, custom made and installed in the shock while the air can is deflated and unscrewed such as for normal self air can oil service, to prevent seat tube tire contact. The shimmed HD160 shock limits wheel travel to about 152 to 156mm travel. The 650b wheels more than compensate for the minor reduction in bottom travel.

    Here's a link on shock shimming instructions... http://forums.mtbr.com/650b/650b-sho...ce-623853.html

    Shock quality is entirely a personal choice. The best you know is the best you've ridden. Personally I've ridden coil suspension for about 15 years for the smoother compliance on rough trail and best mid to deep travel support for smoother trail, for plush and grippy g-loaded cornering and controlling fork brake dive without needing to over pressure or over damp as required of an air fork for good mid-travel support. I'm riding X-Fusion high end coil now, and never rode better including custom tuned Fox and RS shocks and forks. I'd imagine X-Fusion air suspension also compares very favorably to most other brands. Brian Lopes doesn't ride X-Fusion air suspension because he's paid more, he's rich already and riding for fun and to continue his winning competitive lifestyle, they work as good as it gets and are lightest in weight.

    I have no experience riding the Enve carbon rims. 2 rims would drop about 1/2 pound weight and stay near perfectly true longer compared to some of the lightest aluminum rims having about the same inner width, such as the Stans Flow rims. The cost is a lot for that 1/2 pound weight savings, way more than the old $1 per gram standard to consider, and with inflation maybe that's closer to $2 per gram to consider now days, but still it's a far higher rate per gram for Enve rims.

    Either way you order the HD, it can be easily converted between 140mm to 160mm travel (and between or less than 140mm using shock shims), and easily converted to 650b.

  2. #152
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    Keep in mind he is asking about using a 27.5 specific Fox fork. So the axle to crown should be larger than a standard 160mm Fox. So at 160mm it will probably be too tall and need to have the travel reduced.
    2013 Santa Cruz TRc 650b
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  3. #153
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    "Forks rarely if ever need to be shimmed to limit bottom travel if 650b clears the arch"

    From what I understand, w/o travel being limited, the tires might hit the bottom of the crown on full compression. The X-Fusion Velvet can be converted for 650B use by shimming which limits the travel by 10mm (From 140 to 130) but maintaining the same axle-to-crown height of the normal 140mm travel fork set up.

    This 650b Mojo idea is really intriguing. But the BB height will be higher. With regular 26" wheels, the BB is already pretty high.
    We Ride In God's Country!

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by myitch View Post
    "Forks rarely if ever need to be shimmed to limit bottom travel if 650b clears the arch"

    From what I understand, w/o travel being limited, the tires might hit the bottom of the crown on full compression. The X-Fusion Velvet can be converted for 650B use by shimming which limits the travel by 10mm (From 140 to 130) but maintaining the same axle-to-crown height of the normal 140mm travel fork set up.

    This 650b Mojo idea is really intriguing. But the BB height will be higher. With regular 26" wheels, the BB is already pretty high.
    Reports indicate current tires will clear the bottom of the crown in the 140mm setting (X-Fusion playing it safe?) with no shim needed. You should of course check for yourself by letting all the air out of the fork and slamming it down. New tires about to hit the market may not just like a non 650B specific Fox forks many people use now.

    BB height of an HD 140 with a 150mm fork and 26" wheels is 13.5". 650B wheels will bring it to 14". Yes, high for some but if you live in rocky areas not so bad.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    BB height of an HD 140 with a 150mm fork and 26" wheels is 13.5". 650B wheels will bring it to 14". Yes, high for some but if you live in rocky areas not so bad.
    ^^^ What skidad said. I am going to find out pretty soon as my HD has just arrived. My converted Nickel feels real nice with its 13.6" orig. BB height. I have enough parts to set the HD up for 160 or 140mm but my fork limits my options at the moment so I am going to run it with 140mm initially.

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by StiHacka View Post
    ^^^ What skidad said. I am going to find out pretty soon as my HD has just arrived. My converted Nickel feels real nice with its 13.6" orig. BB height. I have enough parts to set the HD up for 160 or 140mm but my fork limits my options at the moment so I am going to run it with 140mm initially.
    StiHacka, can't wait to see that new/used (for you) HD built up and hopefully give it a try (even if I do need a large). Jamis is finally getting built this week

    I'm in lust for a bike in waiting. 650B Pivot Mach 5.7 (carbon version hopefully) or whatever they will call it when it arrives which it will. Another DW Link beauty.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  7. #157
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    Wow, very interesting thread!

  8. #158
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    Demoed a large (im 5'7") and it rode better and more comfortably than my current rig! Just ordered my frame white w red bits now 2 or 3 rings up front? Xtr trail 38/26 2x according to ibis doesn't fit so I would have to go race 42/30 which migh be too high

  9. #159
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    Can you do XT 28/40T? I plan to run it on my old design HD, Scot from Ibis confirmed that this combo should work with the SLX FD.

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by deofour View Post
    I need some help from you guys that have kept me up nights foaming at the mouth over these Mojo Hd converts.
    So here is what I am thinking and so what if my kid can't go to college. I just stole a barely used 13 fox talas 160 27.5 on ebay and want to pair it with a fresh Mojo Hd frame from my lbs. I am also thinking wtf why not go for the Enve AM 650b hoops with king hubs while I'm at it.

    Should I order the 140 or the 160 Mojo Hd? If I go 140 how will the 160 on the front need to be shimmed if at all?

    RP23 for the rear?

    Anybody have experience with anything coming from Enve?

    I'm in CT, I ride local rocky technical stuff and hit Blue MT in NY and possibly MT Creek once I have the right hardware.

    Thanks in advance
    I have the HD 140 with a 150mm fork that I ride on New England trails (CT, RI, VT and NH) and I'm very happy with it. I've ridden it at Highland bike park and felt the travel was adequate for my riding (no huge drops or jumps). I do want to eventually get a separate fork and shock to run 170/160 front/rear travel but that's based more on my curiosity and never ending need to spend $ on bike parts than a need for more travel. I just got my 650b wheels and tires set up yesterday so I can't report on that yet.

  11. #161
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    We all need to petition Ibis for a specific 650b built frame,really surprised they weren't on this ASAP considering all the conversions out there,am looking at the Intense 275 the geometry seams right and bottom bracket height is good 13.3 should handle and turn well.I do not want a 275 conversion and no reason to now,the Turner Burner looks promising.but really I love my Mojo SL the sus rocks!will have to cheat until Ibis wakes up and lead in this sizing,they already have a following for it now make it real!
    Last edited by techfersure; 09-12-2012 at 04:54 AM.

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by techfersure View Post
    We all need to petition Ibis for a specific 650b built frame,really surprised they weren't on this ASAP considering all the conversions out there,am looking at the Intense 275 the geometry seams right and bottom bracket height is good 13.3 should handle and turn well.I do not want a 275 conversion and no reason to now,the Turner Burner looks promising.but really I love my Mojo SL the sus rocks!will have to cheat until Ibis wakes up and lead in this sizing,they already have a following for it now make it real!
    I agree with you here. Hd 140 obviously works very well but not so much clearance really. Purpose built 650B 140/160 would be killer that will handle all the new big tires coming down the pike and a BB height of 13.5-13.75"

    Like Turner is doing with it's DW link Burner, Pivot is also gonna build a purpose built DW link Mach 5.7 (or something like that). That's the one I'm waiting for and hopefully a carbon version also.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  13. #163
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    Finally converted!

    650b Mojo HD ... Heavy Duty-imageuploadedbytapatalk1347799314.056557.jpg

  14. #164
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    I am probably going with a second hand inexpensive Lyrik U-Turn for the HD for now. I like its flexibility and it should carry me at least over this Fall/Winter, I hope next year there will me more options readily available. It will limit my front tire options to a 2.3 Neo but I can live with that as long as I can actually find one!

    Charmon: how do you like the 27.5 HD?

  15. #165
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    new build Ibis Mojo HD 650b

    Hey y'all
    first post but been following this thread for a while here is my new bike just finished following the good advice and lead of other members converted Mojo HD 160 to 650b/27.5...used Fox float 34 CTD 27.5 160mm and just shortened travel on RP 23 with plastic washers ( Thanks Derby!) Industry Nine wheel set w Stans and Schwalbe rubber clear just fine on rear triangle
    bike works great just took it on the backside of China Camp couple days ago.
    Verdict? beefy and loose, a nice roller for sure and feels more nimble than my specialized 29er. One thing i did notice is that on steep climbs the front end gets very light and at some point just comes off the ground. I'm thinking its because of changed geometry everything got higher due to bigger hoops so now center of gravity further back and as angle of climb goes up at some point CG gets behind rear wheel contact point, gonna slide seat forward on rails see if that helps any other ideas? Im about 6'1" so I imagine woul;dnt be as much of an issue for a shorter rider and even more for a taller rider...

    Build came in at 28.3 lbs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 650b Mojo HD ... Heavy Duty-image.jpg  


  16. #166
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    Congrats an welcome to the club. It took me 50 or so miles to really get comfortable with technical climbs that included weight transfers over logs. Try the lock out on the fork to bring the cg down and forward. Short of that you can go for offset bushings for the rear as Derby has talked about multiple times.

    Here's mine Mojo HD 650 Build

  17. #167
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    My opinion FWIW...short wheelbase, slack STA combined with the height you have the seat pushes weight waaay back, and add in the 160 fork and you have a wheelie machine. Get rid of the layback dropper and also move the seat way forward. Maybe that combined with your long stem would get you over the front enough to keep the front down better.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  18. #168
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    ^^ what skidad said. Perhaps a little wider flat handlebar would work, too?

  19. #169
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    I've never been happier being 5'7" as I am right now looking at that seat post

  20. #170
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    mtb hombre-- what size is your frame?

    im currently on a m-hd 160/650b and though i like it a lot--im really starting to see where a longer wheelbase might be a good thing...

  21. #171
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    It's a L size frame. The main reason why I got this bike was to have something more nimble for tighter more technical trails and it does work very well for that so far. The seat post is not a layback version just straight the picture makes it looks that way... I like the ideas tossed out so far the other thought was the adj headset by crane creek to push the front wheel forward a tad and lengthen wheel base, but careful not to lose that " flickability"
    What's the general effect of a longer stem on steering?

  22. #172
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    Your new fork is 1cm higher then the 160 36, and you shimmed your rear end so you slackened your HTA considerably. I would consider lowering your front fork at least 10mm or using an angleset. That should help a lot with the light front end on steep climbs, and make it more nimble in tight turns. You didn't increase your HTA with the larger wheels but you did increase your Trail which supposedly feels sort of the same as slackening your head angle. I am not the most experienced here(if derby chimes in he is THE 650b mojo expert), but it would seem to me that I would try to fix the problem( slack HA) rather before starting to play with stem length, which looks long already, which will effect steering. Frame looks small for you with a long stem and very high seat.

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bones2 View Post
    Your new fork is 1cm higher then the 160 36, and you shimmed your rear end so you slackened your HTA considerably. I would consider lowering your front fork at least 10mm or using an angleset. That should help a lot with the light front end on steep climbs, and make it more nimble in tight turns. You didn't increase your HTA with the larger wheels but you did increase your Trail which supposedly feels sort of the same as slackening your head angle. I am not the most experienced here(if derby chimes in he is THE 650b mojo expert), but it would seem to me that I would try to fix the problem( slack HA) rather before starting to play with stem length, which looks long already, which will effect steering. Frame looks small for you with a long stem and very high seat.
    Good stuff bones with one tiny exception - when you shim the rear shock, you limit its travel (it bottoms out sooner) - you do not slacken the HA any more. If you use offset bushings, then you would either slacken (when aiming for lower BB) or steepen (when aiming for better rear wheel clearance) the HA.

  24. #174
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    The seat post is not a layback version just straight the picture makes it looks that way
    Gimme another picture please as that sure looks like an offset post to me. Rail clamps appear to be an inch or more back from the post section.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  25. #175
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    Aha now I get it, yes indeed it is an offset post. I was thinking of the seat posts that have an angle in them. BTW I did not shim the rear end just limited the travel of the shock so as to prevent the tire from hitting frame at full travel.
    so here is the new picture now that I have flipped the offset to the front of the seat post in order to move my butt forward and hopefully mitigate the wheelie tendency. gonna take it out for a ride now and see how it feels. can anybody weigh in with any anecdotal or theoretical input on the effects on steering if I put on a longer stem for the handlebars?
    Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 650b Mojo HD ... Heavy Duty-image-2.jpg  


  26. #176
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    longer stem == slower steering, less twitchy, easier climbing, worse control in descents

  27. #177
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    worse control in descents
    Especially that. It will give you that I'm going over the bars feeling on steep downhills besides the worse control.

    Your stem is very long now for an HD (I'm guessing about a 110?). Most guys run probably a 50-75 and some shorter than a 50. Ride the bike with the change you did which is interesting and not sure I've seen that done with a dropper post but what the heck, try it out. You have effectively moved your seat almost 2" forward and that's a huge change in weight distribution. Hopefully you won't feel to cramped now so give it a few rides.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  28. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB hombre View Post
    BTW I did not shim the rear end just limited the travel of the shock
    Yeah, and how did you do that? By adding shims inside the shock, perhaps...?


    As for the stem:
    - longer = slower, "number" steering, weight forward
    - shorter = more nimble, quick and lively feel, weight back/centered

    Going for too small frame for agility was probably not the best idea, especially with Mojo, which is rather short and inherently "lively" due to 67 head angle... Such choices could be made if your height is centrally between two sizes, but looking at your cockpit setup, I think you should definitely be on one frame size up.

    IMO correct size is crucial and tuning of bike's "feel" should be made by cockpit setup, mainly stem and handlebar height and lenght.

    Speaking od which, maybe you should try wider handlebar (760-780 mm) - it will improve stability and "badassness-feel" on descents and will allow for little shorter stem (something like 70 mm?) to get lighter and faster steering (by putting ultra-long roadie-stem on a frame that is too small, you probably get the opposite effect to deserved, in terms of lively feeling bike). Wider bar puts more of your weight forward, so it also helps with climbing balance, which you're looking for.

    So to sum up: check, how the bike rides with reversed seatpost, and if you don't feel too cramped (too short cockpit), go for shorter stem and wider handlebar.
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  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by StiHacka View Post
    I am probably going with a second hand inexpensive Lyrik U-Turn for the HD for now. I like its flexibility and it should carry me at least over this Fall/Winter, I hope next year there will me more options readily available. It will limit my front tire options to a 2.3 Neo but I can live with that as long as I can actually find one!

    Charmon: how do you like the 27.5 HD?
    Sorry for the delayed response, I missed this post. The bike is great so far. If the trails around here are muddy enough to start clogging up in the rear then I am not riding anyway so clearance hasn't been an issue. I think I've heard a few rocks scrape through which makes me cringe a little but that could be my imagination since I haven't noticed any major wear. I am VERY happy I made the investment to try it out.

  30. #180
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    Now with reversed seat post wheelie tendency is almost completely gone , except for on border line too steep to ride anyway stuff. Cockpit feels great, not cramped which I feared might be e case. seat dropper works just the same, all good. May still go for slacker headset option and maybe the wider bars gonna ride it for a while thanks for the feedbback!

  31. #181
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    Semantics

    Quote Originally Posted by wooyek View Post
    Yeah, and how did you do that? By adding shims inside the shock, .
    Yes I did add shims inside the shock but that does nothing to change the ride geometry (what was being discussed) only limits the absolute travel to keep the tire from hitting frame.
    What's Bones2 said was shim the rear end not rear shock...
    I am still figuring much of these mods out so wasn't sure whether there was some other technique he was referring to.

    I chose the Ibis Stem and bar from their store bar is 710mm and called a a DH bar, stem for the mojo and tranny vary from 80 -130 so I went for somewhat in the middle at 100mm. For me this is going to be more of an all mountain bike which I wanted for more of its descending abilities and nimbleness especially on some of the tight trails backside china camp and lake Tahoe (Dirty Harry's). The are tight tree spots on Local single track where a wide bar is not your friend which is why I chose the shorter bar but if I am giving up stability on faster downhill runs then may have to rethink that....sounds like a wider bar/shorter stem may be worth trying sometime soon.

  32. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by charmon2 View Post
    Sorry for the delayed response, I missed this post. The bike is great so far. If the trails around here are muddy enough to start clogging up in the rear then I am not riding anyway so clearance hasn't been an issue. I think I've heard a few rocks scrape through which makes me cringe a little but that could be my imagination since I haven't noticed any major wear. I am VERY happy I made the investment to try it out.
    Thank you Charmon. I can relate to your experience, I shall post a few pictures of mine here, soon.

  33. #183
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    Here is the most recent configuration of my HD 160. 1x9 mostly SRAM drive train with a 32T bling ring, medium cage SLX RD, XT brakes, Lyrik U-Turn, Avalanche DHX 5 coil shock, P35 & Flow rims and Hope Pro II hubs, 730mm Carver Ti flat handlebar, 60mm stem, Reverb dropper and Fyzik Gobi XM saddle. NN 2.25 front, Neo Moto 2.1 rear. Weight would be somewhere between 32 and 33 lbs.


  34. #184
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    Lookin' good! but where is the extra weight coming from? especially for a 1X9 set up..? mine weighs 28.4 lbs all up:
    HD 160 L frame w RP 23 shock
    Fox Float 34 X160 CTD650b
    Industry Nine hubs and spokes, Stans Flow EX
    Schwalbe racing ralph tubeless 2.25
    Shimano XTR 2X10 M986 drivetrain
    Shimano XTR 175 crankset and BB, PD-M785 pedals
    Avid code brakes 160/180
    Ibis 100mm stem and Ibis DH bar
    Spec Command Post Blacklite w WTB Silverado saddle


    is that a 36mm fork? s'pose the coil shock adds some grams as well definitely looks beefy.
    how do ya like the Hope hubs? Loving the I9's so far...

  35. #185
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    Both coilers are heavy, the Lyrik has 35mm legs. Add the guide/guard and not exactly lightweight wheels, tires and tubes and you are easily over 30lbs. This setup is indestructible though. Oh and I run -1 deg angleset for more slack too.

  36. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by StiHacka View Post
    Here is the most recent configuration of my HD 160. 1x9 mostly SRAM drive train with a 32T bling ring, medium cage SLX RD, XT brakes, Lyrik U-Turn, Avalanche DHX 5 coil shock, P35 & Flow rims and Hope Pro II hubs, 730mm Carver Ti flat handlebar, 60mm stem, Reverb dropper and Fyzik Gobi XM saddle. NN 2.25 front, Neo Moto 2.1 rear. Weight would be somewhere between 32 and 33 lbs.

    Very nice! I still wish I got the Vitamin P frame. I am guessing that if I had I would probably be saying the same thing about the black though...maybe I need a second one

  37. #187
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    BB looks so high... what is height in that current configuration, if you don't mind my asking?
    For sale: NEW Race Face D2 stem, black, zero rise, 50mm length. $40

  38. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by red bank rider View Post
    I'll take a stab at this. In order of most 650B clearance:
    Ripley!
    Mojo HD140 (rear doesn't use full 160mm of travel, so no bottoming)
    Mojo HD
    Mojo SL
    Mojo SL-R (nearly impossible)
    I know this is pretty dated but is this still the case with the 2013 models? I see the SL still uses a standard FD and 135mm rear vs. direct mount and 142.

  39. #189
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    30-ish pounds with pedals now. 1x10 Type 2 X.9, Bling Ring, Vengeance HLR Air, TrailTaker 2.4 and NoNi 2.25.



    For those interested in BB height, look at Ibis site, find the geometry info, add 1/2" for 650b wheels.

  40. #190
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    Looking really good there StiHacka A rock eating machine
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

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    Hi guys.
    Did any of you tried putting 27.5 on the front (w/ 150 fork) and leaving the 26 on the back?
    It sounds like a perfect set, and that the frame can handle the geometry.
    Any thoughts?
    Thanks!

  42. #192
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by Boazchen View Post
    Hi guys.
    Did any of you tried putting 27.5 on the front (w/ 150 fork) and leaving the 26 on the back?
    It sounds like a perfect set, and that the frame can handle the geometry.
    Any thoughts?
    Thanks!
    Sounds weird and may make a wheelie machine out of it,plus then gotta carry two extra tubes! seems like there is some resistance to setting up MOJO HD in 160 mode w 650b-why? easy job of shimming rear shock solves problem of wheel hitting frame and then you get the additional travel over the 140 mode. the more I ride mine the more i like it, just changed out front tire from Schwalbe 650b X 2.25 Racing Ralph to the Hans Dampf 2.35 model definitely more bite in cornering...weight is up to 29.15 lbs with maybe a bit of dirt weight
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 650b Mojo HD ... Heavy Duty-20130325_101505.jpg  


  43. #193
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    No need to carry 2 tubes. 26" tubes work just fine on a 27.5". Muy stretchy...

  44. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB hombre View Post
    Sounds weird and may make a wheelie machine out of it,plus then gotta carry two extra tubes! seems like there is some resistance to setting up MOJO HD in 160 mode w 650b-why? easy job of shimming rear shock solves problem of wheel hitting frame and then you get the additional travel over the 140 mode. the more I ride mine the more i like it, just changed out front tire from Schwalbe 650b X 2.25 Racing Ralph to the Hans Dampf 2.35 model definitely more bite in cornering...weight is up to 29.15 lbs with maybe a bit of dirt weight
    My thoughts were these: I ride technical grounds, but jump no more then 1m drops. So I thought to have a 140 fork (save 1/2 kg) and leave a 26'' as the rear wheel for better speed (less traction).
    Wheelies I can handle with budy weight shift, and I use tubeless so one 26'' tube just in case will do.
    My worries are about balance. Would the bike keep its glories feeling?

  45. #195
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    Yeah i see your point...although i think you meant to say glorious...only one way to find out!

  46. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB hombre View Post
    seems like there is some resistance to setting up MOJO HD in 160 mode w 650b-why?
    Well, it voids the warranty.

  47. #197
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    I've been reading these 650b Ibis forums with great interest for 6 months. After 4 years of riding my 1st generation Mojo I decided to upgrade & build out a 650b Ibis. I've ridden an HD 140mm & a SL with a 650b front wheel with Fox 150mm 26" fork. I know, Not Recommended! I have a friend who was experimenting & I got to ride along to gather data.
    I bought a never built SL size large & have been gathering XT Dyna Sys drivetrain parts, etc. for the build. My plan is to use a Magura TS8 650b 150mm front fork(must have a 1 1/8" straight steerer) and leave the rear wheel as a 26"er. I loved the slacker HeadTube angle on the HD & am thinkin' the 650b fork & wheel will be the perfect way to slacken the HT angle of the SL, while keeping it lighter & more CC/AM like. We'll see .............
    Wil be starting the build soon & will contribute again with photos & ride info.

  48. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by StiHacka View Post
    30-ish pounds with pedals now. 1x10 Type 2 X.9, Bling Ring, Vengeance HLR Air, TrailTaker 2.4 and NoNi 2.25.



    For those interested in BB height, look at Ibis site, find the geometry info, add 1/2" for 650b wheels.
    Wouldn't that be "add 0.75"??

    So 13.5"(for HD140) + 0.75" = 14.25"??

    Why only 1/2 inch for you? Are the Nobby Nics considerably smaller than 27.5"?

  49. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by red bank rider View Post
    Wouldn't that be "add 0.75"??

    So 13.5"(for HD140) + 0.75" = 14.25"??

    Why only 1/2 inch for you? Are the Nobby Nics considerably smaller than 27.5"?
    27.5" wheels are about 1" taller than 26" wheels. You can find tons of discussions about the 650b wheel size nomenclature here or on other sites, let us not go there.

  50. #200
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    I don't think anybody should hesitate for a moment to try 650b front only on their SL, SLR, or HD, assuming you've got a compatible fork. I've ridden my SL 26/26, 650/650, and 650/26 and all three are totally valid, fun, shred-able setups... They're just different. Currently I've taken the 650b rear off and put the 26" back on and it's fun...very AM-ish. This is with a 150mm Revelation with 529mm Axle to Crown, so taller/slacker than the Fox 140 or 150 setups, and resulting in head angle around 67.7 and trail of about 100mm... might not appeal to the racer boys chasing their buddies up steep non-technical climbs, and it's not the best of the 3 setups for lots of tight up hill switchbacks, but it's not terrible in either of those areas either, and it shreds everywhere else. The new dedicated 650b forks available have a little longer a-c which will slacken things further, but they also have more offset so it will keep the trail figure in check and keep things from getting too floppy.
    Last edited by doismellbacon; 04-08-2013 at 09:48 PM. Reason: correcting brain fart

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