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Thread: Wheel dilemma

  1. #1
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    Wheel dilemma

    I'm almost there, but I've got some reservations and questions. Reservations are partly based on how much to invest in hubs, partly on what rims, partly on color scheme, partly on whether to buy a complete set or just roll my own (one too many Blunt ad I guess) and partly who to give my business to. Problem is they're all related in one way or another. The bike doesn't seem to be an issue, it's a large 07 Heckler with a Fox fork, and from what I'm reading that's the least of my concerns; for a tire the Neo Moto looks great.

    Biggest concern is rim. The Blunt looks okay, but I'd rather it have eyelets, and it disturbs me that there's a good number of rims out there that may be a tad undersized. Haven't seen much on the Synergy, but it's eyeletted but I'd rather have the width of the Blunt. Sun might have an interesting, and eyeletted, rim in the Equalizer 27 if it really exists outside of a complete wheelset, but I don't find any complete wheelsets either, via google at least; not encouraging that Sun CR18s in 650b were oversized. Alex might have a rim, but can only find a blog comment that it might be in the pipeline.

    I think I can work out the rest but I'm needing some sensible words rim-wise...
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    I'm almost there, but I've got some reservations and questions. Reservations are partly based on how much to invest in hubs, partly on what rims, partly on color scheme, partly on whether to buy a complete set or just roll my own (one too many Blunt ad I guess) and partly who to give my business to. Problem is they're all related in one way or another. The bike doesn't seem to be an issue, it's a large 07 Heckler with a Fox fork, and from what I'm reading that's the least of my concerns; for a tire the Neo Moto looks great.

    Biggest concern is rim. The Blunt looks okay, but I'd rather it have eyelets, and it disturbs me that there's a good number of rims out there that may be a tad undersized. Haven't seen much on the Synergy, but it's eyeletted but I'd rather have the width of the Blunt. Sun might have an interesting, and eyeletted, rim in the Equalizer 27 if it really exists outside of a complete wheelset, but I don't find any complete wheelsets either, via google at least; not encouraging that Sun CR18s in 650b were oversized. Alex might have a rim, but can only find a blog comment that it might be in the pipeline.

    I think I can work out the rest but I'm needing some sensible words rim-wise...
    Velocity really stands behind their products so undersized shoudn't be a worry. Eyelets - can be debated but there are a few AM rims out there w/o an complaints. Go 650b or wait till more options exist...

  3. #3
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    Don't worry about eyelets. When building the wheel add some lube to the rim/nipple interface, before adding tension to the spokes. If you are using brass nipples, you'll have less to worry about. Eyelets are not nessesary.
    The Alex Rim is in exsistance, and on US soil. The only distributor I know carrying it is currently out-of stock. I will update my blog when they get them again.

  4. #4
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    CH -
    What are the rims pictured w/ Racing Ralphs mounted on your blog?
    What sizes are the 650b RRs available in?

    Thanks.

  5. #5
    TNC
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    Bikin, I loved the design, weight, and strength of my Blunt, but even the replacement for the undersized Blunts have been basically the same size. Even the new one is a floppy fit for the Neo. I think you can get away with this as long as you run a tube, but I'd never trust one running tubeless with a strip anymore. Now, Rainman has been running his Blunt in a ghetto tubeless with apparent total reliability, and that may make some sense. The ghetto system probably increases the material at the bead/rim interface and makes a solid seal.

    The Stan's ZTR355 rims are probably the best design to fit the 650B, but they are skinny.

    I am really wanting try a Sun Equalizer, and it's my understanding that you can get a rim easier than a wheelset.

    On the CR18, that oversize deal is highly overrated IMO. We have a couple of those at the shop, and I think the Neo/CR18 fit is actually what it should be to run tubeless. There's no magic or drama in getting the tire off the bead either in the shop or in the field. The CR18 isn't a very wide rim, however, but it is solid for the weight.

    I've been experimenting with a Stan's ZTR355 on the front of my Nomad, and it hasn't even needed truing for many months now. The Neo's profile isn't weird with the narrow rim, and it's worked out OK. It came from Stan with a convertible Hope Pro II hub. I won't run it on the rear of a long travel bike, as I sit my butt down too much and am hard on rear wheels. The ZTR is a darned light wheel.

  6. #6
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    Kirk sent me a pm reminding me that he had the Sun rims so ordered rims and tires from him...I had looked at his site early on and then totally forgot about it...

    Thanks all for the responses. I just might go tubeless for the first time with this wheelset...
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    Those are the American Classic BXC wheelset.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    Now, Rainman has been running his Blunt in a ghetto tubeless with apparent total reliability, and that may make some sense. The ghetto system probably increases the material at the bead/rim interface and makes a solid seal.

    Ah ha I couldn't get the bead to set with the ghetto pipe tape method. Once I went with the butterflied tube, I set just fine.

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    The ghetto system probably increases the material at the bead/rim interface and makes a solid seal.
    Yup, also the Stans ztr's are designed to run tubeless ethier with yellow tape or rim strip. (But he knows that many of us are ghetto because of the improvement it makes in the seal...oh yea, and the price.)
    For over 200 lbs, i'm not sure what I would go with. But i'm running em at 165lbs on 140mm travel bike built XC/Marathon.

  10. #10
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    Finally have the pieces together and with the rain will probably have them built tomorrow or the next day...new pics to follow then.
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  11. #11
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    I LOVED the 650's on my Heckler!

    i had Equalizers as well... had a little trouble mounting up the neo tires at first..
    kept blowing the tire off the rim during inflation.. (with a hand pump, not compressor)
    i attributed this mostly to the fact that I was running 26" tubes and they were inflating close to the rim and pushing outwards, whereas if it were on a 26" tire, they would inflate more in the inside of the tire carcass then press against the bead//rim area..

    just take your time inflating and making sure it's peoperly hooked all the way around (on both sides) as you inflate..
    once installed and inflated I had ZERO issues with that setup on the trail... ran 30-35psi


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Nony Moose
    I LOVED the 650's on my Heckler!

    i had Equalizers as well... had a little trouble mounting up the neo tires at first..
    kept blowing the tire off the rim during inflation.. (with a hand pump, not compressor)
    i attributed this mostly to the fact that I was running 26" tubes and they were inflating close to the rim and pushing outwards, whereas if it were on a 26" tire, they would inflate more in the inside of the tire carcass then press against the bead//rim area..

    just take your time inflating and making sure it's peoperly hooked all the way around (on both sides) as you inflate..
    once installed and inflated I had ZERO issues with that setup on the trail... ran 30-35psi

    Thanks, had decided to go tubed and was wondering what, if any, downsides to using 26" tubes would be. I'll keep an eye on them, thanks. FWIW the tire/rim interface seem normal; but that's without a tube, just slipping them on the rim to see if it was too loose or too tight sort of thing. Just about time to put the laptop down and go start on them...
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Thanks, had decided to go tubed and was wondering what, if any, downsides to using 26" tubes would be. I'll keep an eye on them, thanks. FWIW the tire/rim interface seem normal; but that's without a tube, just slipping them on the rim to see if it was too loose or too tight sort of thing. Just about time to put the laptop down and go start on them...
    I have mounted 650's w/ 26" tubes a handfull of times. First mount resulted in a blow off because the bead wasn't centered . Had a really good blow out today even w/ the bead seated - tube must have been under the bead . Try lubing the tube so it won't stick under the bead.

  14. #14
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    Well won't have pics for a bit. The shop didn't cut the threads correctly and I didn't notice until I had both wheels laced and only then noticed some spokes seemed short of threads and they were, some have only a bit over 8mm of thread. I usually take a look at all the threads before I start but this time I didn't (Murphy's law sez...). I noticed the discrepancy on some of the spokes when I went to get them down to a few threads past the nipple and noticed some were already there, got out the calipers and sure enough most have 10mm of thread, but several only 8mm. Dang.
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    I've had success with adding a layer or two of electrical tape snugged up close to the rim walls to help keep the bead snug. I use this method on my CX wheels because my CX tires tend to want to pop out of the rim. I also always use electrical tape as rim strips too. It's readily available,cheap and it works.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cracked Headtube
    Those are the American Classic BXC wheelset.
    Can BXC's be had with single speed hub?

  17. #17
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    Finished them up Saturday night. Took the laced wheels to my buddy at the shop who said that they looked like they'd have no problem tensioning them up, but tightened them up enough to see that they'd go all the way; guaranteed if I ran into any problems tensioning them he'd guarantee a rebuild on his nickel, so I guess I cheated somewhat in that I didn't do all the work...
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