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  1. #1
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    New Superlight 650b conversion!

    Fox float RLC FIT
    XTR rear derailleur, trail brakes, rear shifter
    XTR crankset machined to 1x, brushed and clear Cerakoated
    Wolf Tooth 36t ring
    Syntace 760mm low riser
    Thomson stem and post
    Bontrager saddle
    Crest rims on I9 h torch hubs (pink!) with DT revolutions
    Kendall Karmas
    ESI grips

    23.5 lbs with pedals

    Very excited to ride once the rain finally stops!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Superlight 650b conversion!-image.jpg  


  2. #2
    AZ
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    Nicely done.

  3. #3
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    New Superlight 650b conversion!

    Nice. Intend to do similar with mine when my Jeep is paid off in A couple months. Any mods needed for the rear to get clearance under compression?

  4. #4
    NedwannaB
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    That B super nice! It's a new model right??
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  5. #5
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    I think it's a 2012. It's missing the tapered headtube, that's why the frameset only cost me $550.00

    I put 20+ off-road miles on it Saturday, and 35+ yesterday in the mountains. It's a very fast bike. I've owned 2 Superlights in the past (4-5 years ago was the last) and have only ridden 29ers in the interim.

    I think I can get it to 23 lbs. without much trouble, much lighter than that will require some use of parts I don't think will hold up too well for an XC/endurance racing bike.

    No carbon on the bike minus the handlebar, which, at 760mm wide, isn't overly lightweight (>215 g).

    The biggest difference in this and the 29er hardtails I've been on is the way it steers, both at slow and high speeds. No more planning my turns well in advance to thread the needle and avoid understeer; this thing steers from the hips like a 26er. Consecutive, turns on fast, flowy sections of trail are so easy and fun it's amazing.

    In the air, it's still not a BMX bike but it is so much better than a 29er it's not funny. Very tossable.

    I'm sure at least part of the reason I'm enjoying the downhills more again is the fact that I have rear suspension for the first time in years, but I think the wheelsize is a big part, too.

    Being able to (finally!) get the bars as low as I'd like to weight the front wheel for high-speed cornering (and still use a riser) is tremendous.

    BB height feels spot on at 12.8" or thereabouts. Could even be a little higher and be OK.

    All in all, a very successful experiment so far and one I'm excited to try in a race.

    Oh, and the Wolf Tooth (XX1-type) chainring is every bit as advertised. No drops even when I tried to make it come off. Drivetrain is perfectly silent (eerily so). Amazing advancement; wish it had been around 5 years ago when I first switched to 1x drivetrains.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryp View Post
    Nice. Intend to do similar with mine when my Jeep is paid off in A couple months. Any mods needed for the rear to get clearance under compression?
    None yet, though I think I hit the cable stop slightly at one point yesterday with the rear tire. Intend to file/dremel the stop off ASAP as I will never use a front derailleur again (on any MTB).

  7. #7
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    I think it's a 2012. It's missing the tapered headtube, that's why the frameset only cost me $550.00

    I put 20+ off-road miles on it Saturday, and 35+ yesterday in the mountains. It's a very fast bike. I've owned 2 Superlights in the past (4-5 years ago was the last) and have only ridden 29ers in the interim.

    I think I can get it to 23 lbs. without much trouble, much lighter than that will require some use of parts I don't think will hold up too well for an XC/endurance racing bike.

    No carbon on the bike minus the handlebar, which, at 760mm wide, isn't overly lightweight (>215 g).

    The biggest difference in this and the 29er hardtails I've been on is the way it steers, both at slow and high speeds. No more planning my turns well in advance to thread the needle and avoid understeer; this thing steers from the hips like a 26er. Consecutive, turns on fast, flowy sections of trail are so easy and fun it's amazing.

    In the air, it's still not a BMX bike but it is so much better than a 29er it's not funny. Very tossable.

    I'm sure at least part of the reason I'm enjoying the downhills more again is the fact that I have rear suspension for the first time in years, but I think the wheelsize is a big part, too.

    Being able to (finally!) get the bars as low as I'd like to weight the front wheel for high-speed cornering (and still use a riser) is tremendous.

    BB height feels spot on at 12.8" or thereabouts. Could even be a little higher and be OK.

    All in all, a very successful experiment so far and one I'm excited to try in a race.

    Oh, and the Wolf Tooth (XX1-type) chainring is every bit as advertised. No drops even when I tried to make it come off. Drivetrain is perfectly silent (eerily so). Amazing advancement; wish it had been around 5 years ago when I first switched to 1x drivetrains.
    Yeah ment new as in a '12. I don't think the SL 26 would have tapered. Nice that the conversion worked out so well. 23.5#'s is great! I was toying with getting a frame last year and building it up with my 650 wheels from another 26" experiment. Ended up with a Ventana El Bastardo frame but it's a bit more travel then need. Have 650 and 29r ht's too. I'm still fiddling with staying maybe a SL.
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Yeah ment new as in a '12. I don't think the SL 26 would have tapered. Nice that the conversion worked out so well. 23.5#'s is great! I was toying with getting a frame last year and building it up with my 650 wheels from another 26" experiment. Ended up with a Ventana El Bastardo frame but it's a bit more travel then need. Have 650 and 29r ht's too. I'm still fiddling with staying maybe a SL.
    Actually, the SL26 is tapered HT for 2013. Not a big deal for me either way (certainly at the price I paid).

  9. #9
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    nice! the weight is awesome too.
    i just swapped tires to karma's and was really impressed with my first ride yesterday. but i was coming from nevegals. i'd have to say that i like them as much as the RR i had when i was running 26".
    '10 specialized epic comp carbon - 650b

  10. #10
    Wrench
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    Beautiful bike man. I had a 2004 Superlight that was 650b for the last half of its life. They really do rip. Brings back fond memories!

  11. #11
    NedwannaB
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    I sit corrected

    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    Actually, the SL26 is tapered HT for 2013. Not a big deal for me either way (certainly at the price I paid).
    Actually I assumed they wouldn't go to the hassle of switching to tapered, since it is a 26r after all. But while picking up my bike up at the shop today I looked a little closer at the '13 SL26 and there it was! I just never paid much attention to them since I didn't want to get any wild ideas about building one up .....
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  12. #12
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by FNFAL View Post
    Beautiful bike man. I had a 2004 Superlight that was 650b for the last half of its life. They really do rip. Brings back fond memories!
    I remember it before you got the Blur XCc, I don't recall if you get your SL down to that weight.
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  13. #13
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    this thread has inspired me to convert my SL to 650B... I have a 150 mm Fox 32 RLC 2010, 15mm TA, will lower it for the SL, what works best for a 650B? 120 mm or 130 mm. Any input will help. Thanks

  14. #14
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    120-130mm might jack the bottom bracket up a little high... I am at 12.8" with a 100mm.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    this thread has inspired me to convert my SL to 650B... I have a 150 mm Fox 32 RLC 2010, 15mm TA, will lower it for the SL, what works best for a 650B? 120 mm or 130 mm. Any input will help. Thanks
    Agree with tommy although several builds I've seen run 120's. So unless you had the 150 on the SL already, which is way over their travel/HA as it is for design, you'll notice a bigger change with ctr of gravity with the 650's!!

    I know when I converted a KHS XCT 140mm travel frame over to 650 the bb ended up around 13.75" with only a 130 fork on it. That in combination of it being a small frame wheelbase left it very twitchy descending at speed. Good ground clearence for tight tecky up down trails.
    Last edited by JMac47; 06-14-2013 at 01:47 PM. Reason: typo
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  16. #16
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyrod74 View Post
    120-130mm might jack the bottom bracket up a little high... I am at 12.8" with a 100mm.
    And dayam you tommyrod for posting that sweet build pic! Now with that build weight of yours(I have very similar components...) you got me
    rethinking picking up one of those frames and build a short guys XC version of a fs 29r which is really what I was after!
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    And dayam you tommyrod for posting that sweet build pic! Now with that build weight of yours(I have very similar components...) you got me
    rethinking picking up one of those frames and build a short guys XC version of a fs 29r which is really what I was after!
    I hate to say it, but it's about to drop another ~3/4 lb or so

  18. #18
    NedwannaB
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    We wait with BB (baited breath....)
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Agree with tommy although several builds I've seen run 120's. So unless you had the 150 on the SL already, which is way over their travel/HA as it is for design, you'll notice a bigger change with ctr of gravity with the 650's!!

    I know when I converted a KHS XCT 140mm travel frame over to 650 the bb ended up around 13.75" with only a 130 fork on it. That in combination of it being a small frame wheelbase left it very twitchy descending at speed. Good ground clearence for tight tecky up down trails.
    Nope it set to 130mm as of the moment still a 26 er, I already got the WTB 650 i23s and spokes to go will lace it on XT hubs. I used to run it with a 120 mm F series RLC, no compliants, my 150 RLC float 15mm TA was a replacement to get the the added stiffness of a thru axle fork, i saw in a post here before of a 650b converted SL on 130 mm travel so i brought it down to 130mm. I will be using Nevegals and would be running a 2x10 set up, how much mm spacers should I put on the rear shocks? where did you get the Karma's? i need one for the rear to keep the rolling resistance down... again thanks, will update you guys once I a chance t swap out the wheels... here's a picture of it at 130mm and still a 26'er... thanks guys!

    New Superlight 650b conversion!-dsc_0547.jpg

  20. #20
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    how much mm spacers should I put on the rear shocks? where did you get the Karma's?
    Kenda | Brand | Discounted Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes and Cycling Gear at PricePoint.com

    Not sure about thickness of shims to get clearance depends on your tires and rr deraillure. But lots of "how to's" in forum. Search "advanced search" while in 650 forum for "Superlight shimming shock" refine by clicking under "posts", not threads, and you should get right to the topic. Have not done it but seems simple enuff, or I know PUSH Ind or other shock mod companies do it for a nominal fee (~$25) with a shock performance overhaul.

    Off record, you'll probably get a better ride on the 650 conversion with fork set at 120 unless you're use to the change in geo handling with a taller bb height.
    You can adjust some of that out by sliding seat forward abit and/or lowering bars by either flip stem (if~5*) or pull out stack spacers under stem if you have them. Again depends on your riding style and terrain.

    I have 2.1 Maxxis CrossMarx and they seem to be a good tight fit need tire as well.
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  21. #21
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    Just finished up my 650b Superlight. Frame looks familiar, but mine weighs a bit more than 23 pounds (thank you wheelset, tires, fork, handlebar, stem, crankset, and seatpost)! By the way, I highly recommend the new Grip Shift to anybody running a 1x9/10/11. Much easier to get to the gear you need!

    New Superlight 650b conversion!-6.20.2013-small.jpg

  22. #22
    NedwannaB
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    Nice. What crank/ring/cassette are you running on it?

    Thanks in advance.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Nice. What crank/ring/cassette are you running on it?

    Thanks in advance.
    Deore crank/cassette (12-36 10-speed) and RaceFace single ring (32t). I wouldn't mind upgrading the crank and cassette, as I could save a fair amount of weight there.

  24. #24
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    thanks JMac47... will check these suggestions out...

  25. #25
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker24 View Post
    Deore crank/cassette (12-36 10-speed) and RaceFace single ring (32t). I wouldn't mind upgrading the crank and cassette, as I could save a fair amount of weight there.
    Got it. I noticed you didn't have a chain guide. Is that a clutch type rr der or are you using a tall tooth front ring?
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

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