CUBE AMS 150 HPA Pro 27.5 for aggressive xc/ enduro
After many (read: 14) years with a fs raleigh max lite fs3 (the only stock thing on the bike are the frame and handlebars...) I'm thinking of buying a new bike. I ride mostly aggressive xc / enduro (it depends) and I was thinking of getting the CUBE AMS 150 HPA Pro 27.5. The bike costs around 2300 Euros. For specs see CUBE AMS 150 HPA Pro 27.5 Considering bikes from other brands with similar specs are in the range of 3500+ euros I think the cube is a good (~ish) deal.
I just hope that 150mm rear travel (read: 6") are not overkill for aggressive xc - does it soak up small obstacles as well as -say- a 4.5" rear shock?
Thanks in advance
I'm not sure waht you mean here? as far as I'm aware there is no 4.5" shock. do you mean travel. In which case any 6" travel bike is going to soak up small obstacles better than a 4.5" travel bike. Most 6" travel bikes will bob more than a 4.5" travel bike though.
Originally Posted by stavpal
I have the 26" AMS 150 SHPC and it's ability to suck up small to medium obstacles while pedalling is astounding. That's due to the horst link type rear suspension and using a very long 8.5 x 2.5" shock for 5.7"[ not 6"] of travel. The extra shock stroke is utilised most in the initail travel so you need to climb in a smaller ring like 24T or 26T or use trail mode on the shock for climbing. It can also work very well while kept in trail mode all the time as it still rides well over med obstacles but gives a bit more xc feel to climbing and accelleration. Overall it doesn't feel as deep as some other 6" bikes I've owned but if you've got terrain strewn in rocks or roots it is amazing how well you can just pedal through or how fast it descends over this type of terrain.
I got a few other bikes and haven't had it long enough to dial it in properly but I'll probaly swap out to a Monarch RT3[ from a pre ctd boost valve RP23] as the starchy stiffer ride of the manarch would help it climb. A CTD adjust would also be good probably left in Trail 1 or 2 setting.
The shock is really easy to reach but I currently haven't decided whether I prefer climbing in a small ring or using propedal or whether I prefer to run propedal/ trail all the time with the shock set at a lower pressure. Descending with propedal on has less affect on making the suspension chatter over sharp obstacles thyan any other bike I have ridden > it's still smoother with propedal off but it's very good with propedal / trail on. As the shock is easy to reach I tend to climb with propedal on and descend with it off, but I would be happy to leave it on. it has more antisquat than specialized bikes so actually climbs pretty well in a 24t ring with propedal off.
Overall it's a bit like riding a 29er. the suspension design doesn't have the snap and accelleartion of a xc 26" bike but you could ride all day at a steady pace in the saddle and you'd hardly notice the terrain under you.
Just to clarify, by 4.5" i actually meant 4.7" (travel that is) which is 120mm. 150mm is around 5.9" which is pretty close to 6". Anyway, I had the impression that bikes which have less rear travel are better at soaking up small bumps (maybe my mistake).
I should add that I wouldn't recommend this bike for anyone moving from a hardtail or a bke as old as your Raleigh max lite fs3.
1/ It's very fast and smooth over 3" trail chunder[ rocks and roots] but the suspension will probably be too plush for smooth xc style terrain.
2/ The Geometry of your Raleigh max lite fs3 will be very very different to this bike or any 2014 27.5" bike.I think it will be hard to adjust too.
I would suggest a 2nd hand 26" trail bike from 2009 to 2013 will give a more nimble handling that you are used to. As people upgrde to 27.5" they will be good value and more than likely upgraded with some good gear.
Something like a Giant Trance x 26", a Commencal Meta 5, a Santa Cruz Blur LT or even a Ibis mojo. All have a firmer, efficient climbing , light trail/xc style suspension and a more moderate light trail/ xc style geometry. you can always upgrade to a 27.5" front wheel as that is what makes the most noticeable difference between the two wheel sizes.
Since your in Europe a Cube AMS 130 or even the AMS 150 26" have geometry that is more light Trail and good value.
Bike-Discount | The bike shop with bestprice guarantee! have Cube frames and bikes on discount.
Just add a a few notes for those interested in the Cube supension.
I've had a chance to ride now in both dual ring 24/ 32T and single ring 28T.
For smooth climbs with a 24T ring and propedal off / CTD[ descend mode],It is neutral . I can l feel an improvement with propedal but I'm quite happy with it off. This is comparing it to my Metas which have very high antisquat, much more than the average bike these days. I would say it feels similar climbing with a 24T ring as my Meta 5 does with a 28T ring. On technical climbs it really shines with a 24t ring,neutral but allows the suspension to claw it's way over anything without feeling it through the pedals.
In a 28T ring and propedal on it would feel simialr to 24T propedal off. In 28T propedal off you feel the suspension being pulled down by the chain tension. Technical climbs and 28T with propedal would not be as good as 24T without propedal. Just because on larger obstacles chain tension will overide the propedal and the suspension squats a bit.
I'm waiting for the 2014 RT3 which from experience will climb better again at the expense of intial sensitivity.
This suspension is the best I've ever ridden to highlight the effect of chain tension on suspension peformance. Pedal over 3" trail chunder with 24T and the suspension is definately not as smooth with the increased pedal feedback than when you change up to 32T.
So if you want to drop 3/4 lb and have predominately smoother climbs then 28T propedal is your answer. If you don't mind the extra weight and have technical rock or root strewn climbs then dual ring with 24T is the answer. Opens up the envelope of the suspension a bit to,
Overall very good bike for trails where you have to pedal or climb over trail chunder.
Stereo 160 will differ slightly as it has the same shock but with increased travel. On paper it will be less active in it's intial travel [ not a bad thing on most terrrain] and probably fairly similar with a bit of shock tuning.
On my AMS 150 I have a Xv air sleeve with the larger air vol spacer so is equaivalent to a standard vol air can. Using a smaller vol spacer and upping the air pressure I use similar travel but there is to much mid stroke support for me. It climbs slighty better., but you have to push over a hump in compression at mid stroke before it moves through to full compression. The more progressive setup with the larger air vol spacer seems smoother, and feels deeper.
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