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  1. #1
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    Anybody go from full suspension to a hardtail?

    Love my nickel but I only get in about 15-20 miles a week,have a 4 year old and live within walking distance of a paved greenway. I can buzz the greenway and get my cardio. I tried a road bike killed my hands and then tried 29er wheels with street tires on my nickel. It was ok but it was heavy and I'm thinking a light carbon hardtail around 20lbs would rip in the woods and on the greenway.

    Just wondering how bad of a beating id take on the trails.

    I live in florida so it's not really rooty but the tech stuff can be techy. But the trails are fast.

  2. #2
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    I've gone from full suspension to hardtail to rigid to hardtail and now back to full suspension. Not because I felt that I 'need' a full suspension bike, I just wanted one (and I have a roadbike for road rides). If your trails don't beat you up too much, a nice light hardtail sounds like it might be perfect for you. If I could only have 1 bike and I had to use it for the streets, I'd go with a 29er hardtail.

    I also tried a thudbuster seatpost on my SC Highball and it worked fantastic! When seated, it almost felt like a full suspension bike (almost being the key word). Maybe you can have two seatposts and swap depending on the whether you are riding the dirt or the asphalt.
    2015 Trek Farley
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  3. #3
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    I have a Blur and just recently picked up a Highball C (29"). It took me a few rides to get used to it again, but now i can spend all day on it without getting uncomfortable.

    The real adjustment on trails is that you'll stand more often. I just picked up a 27.2mm Ti post (extra flexy) so i'm hoping that make things even better. Having the hardtail is a lot more fun on anything that's uphill or level, where you can stand up and really crank on it. On the downhill it's nice to have the FS, but it evens out.
    Blur LT & Highball

  4. #4
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    +1 on Thudbuster

    +1 on the Thudbuster it really takes the edge off and does not shorten your pedal stroke like other suspension seat posts. There is no return dampening so it will kick back if you try to use it on a really big hit.
    but there is little to go wrong with it as well. Cane Creek rebuilt mine for free when the pivots got wobbly! ( I had put a lot of miles on it.)
    UGG boots will germinate Paris Hilton like intellect in your soles!

  5. #5
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    I recently went from a full suspension Ellsworth Truth to a Hong Fu carbon hardtail 9erBee. The full suspension is certainly more plush but I'd say the carbon hardtail is a lot better than the old metal hardtails. I find myself preferring the carbon hardtail on most rides. Mine is right at 20 lbs, which makes the bike ride so fast and effortless. It's also much more efficient, especially when climbing. You will change your riding style a bit, as mentioned. You'll do more standing over technical section. I paired mine with a Fox Terralogic fork that acts like a rigid fork on out of the saddle climbs. An excellent fork for a hardtail. Go for it, I don't think you'll regret it.

  6. #6
    jrm
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    Have both. Its nice to mix it up

  7. #7
    650b me
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    Given your situation, a hardtail as a do-it-all bike is a good idea. If you're only riding 15-20 miles a week, you're not gonna beat yourself up on a hardtail. I'd go with 650b or 29'er wheels for more speed on pavement. Just do yourself a favor and keep the suspension fork! I tried rigid and found it brutal at speed on anything other than buff singletrack.

  8. #8
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    If you're worried, you could always try out some of the "all mountain" hardtails they've got out there. Transition Trans Am and Canfield Yelli Screamy are two of the more popular ones. They have slacker angles and are made to fit big tires (which if run tubeless would provide a lot of cushion), plus they're made for a longer travel front fork (~140ish).

    I rode a friend's similarly-speced Voodoo and it was a ton of fun. Seems like it might be the best of both worlds...
    Blur LT & Highball

  9. #9
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    I have the 29er wheels already set up with 700x28c tires and it works fine. (700c and29er wheel are the same) but the full squish just isn't fun on pavement. So swapping wheels wouldn't be the problem. I was thinking the lighter weight of the hardtail on the pavement would give me the speed I want on pavement with fork Locke dout then a fast trail xc bike when I do ride it on the trails.

  10. #10
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by vizsladog View Post
    I have the 29er wheels already set up with 700x28c tires and it works fine. (700c and29er wheel are the same) but the full squish just isn't fun on pavement. So swapping wheels wouldn't be the problem. I was thinking the lighter weight of the hardtail on the pavement would give me the speed I want on pavement with fork Locke dout then a fast trail xc bike when I do ride it on the trails.
    Can't beat price of a PricePoint Razzo frame for what you want. Plus you can put some bigger tires like Panracer 700x45c Fire XC's on those wheels for your regular dirt action when your fs isn't warranted.
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  11. #11
    Wrench
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    Quote Originally Posted by vizsladog View Post
    Love my nickel but I only get in about 15-20 miles a week,have a 4 year old and live within walking distance of a paved greenway. I can buzz the greenway and get my cardio. I tried a road bike killed my hands and then tried 29er wheels with street tires on my nickel. It was ok but it was heavy and I'm thinking a light carbon hardtail around 20lbs would rip in the woods and on the greenway.

    Just wondering how bad of a beating id take on the trails.

    I live in florida so it's not really rooty but the tech stuff can be techy. But the trails are fast.
    I went from a Santa Cruz Blur XCc to a Jamis Nemesis



    I like the Nemesis more.


    I live in Austin. Ride the greenbelt, Walnut Creek, RPR, Muleshoe, Emma Long, etc. I just am more at home on a hardtail. I prefer the instant-power that I get.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by vizsladog View Post
    Love my nickel but I only get in about 15-20 miles a week,have a 4 year old and live within walking distance of a paved greenway. I can buzz the greenway and get my cardio. I tried a road bike killed my hands and then tried 29er wheels with street tires on my nickel. It was ok but it was heavy and I'm thinking a light carbon hardtail around 20lbs would rip in the woods and on the greenway.

    I live in florida so it's not really rooty but the tech stuff can be techy. But the trails are fast.
    I'd stick to 29er , steel or chinese carbon to smooth out the trails when descending while standing . To give you a bit of cush seated then a 27.2 carbon seatpost and a flex rail seat like most sdg seats actually does wonders.

    A lighter wheelset and light fast mtb or cross tires for your current bike would be my pick. Remove some of the junk like triple rings and go 1x 9 or 10.|My Anthem X29er alloy frame is the same weight as most steel hardtails.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    If you're worried, you could always try out some of the "all mountain" hardtails they've got out there. Transition Trans Am and Canfield Yelli Screamy are two of the more popular ones. They have slacker angles and are made to fit big tires (which if run tubeless would provide a lot of cushion), plus they're made for a longer travel front fork (~140ish).

    I rode a friend's similarly-speced Voodoo and it was a ton of fun. Seems like it might be the best of both worlds...
    Am I the only one who thinks that a long travel hardtail is the worst of both worlds? Due to the slack angles and fairly heavy components, you lose the quickness and climbing ability of a regular hardtail, and you'll never be able to let loose downhill like on a FS bike.

    Take the One-One 456. It has a 65.7 degree head tube angle, that's proper downhill bike territory! I can't see how that bike climbs better than a full suspension AM bike, if anything it probably climbs significantly worse. And I can't imagine that you can ride anywhere near as fast as on a full suspension AM bike.

    I can see the appeal of a hardtail with something like 120 mm travel and slightly slacker angles, but 140+ mm hardtails just don't make sense to me. If you're gonna buy a bike with a long wheelbase and a 66 degree head tube angle, why not just get a regular AM bike?

  14. #14
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    My nickel is set up 1x10 has an amercian classic wheel set that weighs 1500 grams and I run schwable Ron and ralph tires. It weighs 26 lbs,and a nickel frame weighs 7lbs. A carbon hardtail would drop around 5lbs

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