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  1. #1
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    27.5 & 29: 2x10 vs 1x11?

    Knowing and trying to gloss over the angst of the wheel size wars for the sake of argument...

    All things being equal, if you were to get an FS 29 and an FS 650b, which would have 2x10 and which would get 1x11?

    Looking at new rides for my wife and myself, and wondering if one gearing format makes more sense of one over the other.

    Assuming XC usage, strong riders in the southeast US ( i.e., no seven mile climbs locally ).

    Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

    BTW, my current ( and only, for now ) MTB is an SS 29er HT.

  2. #2
    NedwannaB
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    Why not the same on either? You'll get pretty much the same gearing range from either of the 2 drivetrain setups.
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  3. #3
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    I'm eager to try the 1x11 set up. Don't you basically just lose the lowest and highest gear, but the rest is comparable? I could live with that... just have to HFU

  4. #4
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    For XC usage, strong rider in the southeast, I'd go 1x11 on either. It's lighter and simpler, and a strong rider in that terrain doesn't need a super low granny gear. If you need a lower climbing gear, just get a smaller chainring.

  5. #5
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    RE: 27.5 & 29: 2x10 vs 1x11?

    1x11 is one less gear, range wise. You can choose which end you lose the gear by selecting a different sized chain ring. IMHO the only reason to go 2x10 over 1x11 is cost.
    Sent from my HTC6990LVW using Board Express

  6. #6
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    I'd go 2x10 for the 29er, since it's more of a sit and spin type bike. The 650b bike will encourage more sprints and aerial tactics, which are more enjoyable with a 1x11. That's my opinion, anyway.

  7. #7
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    I'm running a 1x10 on my Scott Genius. Swap out the chain ring when I hit the mountains. Love it.

  8. #8
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    1x11, Front derailleurs can seriously die on MTB. Plus it makes it a much more reliable system IMO.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker24 View Post
    I'd go 2x10 for the 29er, since it's more of a sit and spin type bike. The 650b bike will encourage more sprints and aerial tactics, which are more enjoyable with a 1x11. That's my opinion, anyway.
    This makes sense.
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  10. #10
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    is 1x11 economically feasible yet? The wear items are still silly money - I'd put the 1x11 on the lowest mileage bike...

  11. #11
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    I run a 1x10 with a RaceFace narrow-wide 30t front and 11-36 cassette. I don't have the lowest gear nor do I have the highest gear, but IMO it's perfect for trail riding. I can still clear every climb in my local trail system but it can spin out quick on a street or smooth fire road, in the end I really don't care about roads since it's a MTB. An added benefit is you HTFU and your legs get beast.

  12. #12
    NedwannaB
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    Yeah, I've been running 1x9 32t/12-36t on a 650B fs conversion and has worked for the most part (except a little more work than I wanted up on a Tahoe ride....)

    I just put the 26" wheel back on to see the difference as I never had it setup 1x with that. At 56 y/o I may have to get one of those 30t rings from Wolf or RF to keep the fun going riding this bike.
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  13. #13
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    An option I like is a quasi-1 x something (8 or 9 in my case), with the bigger chainring acting as an outside guard. On the road, I can manually shift to the bigger gear if needed. No front shifter or derailer.

    For example, 32/36 x 11/36.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for everyones' input so far.

    Having looked further into this, including gear-inch and ratio charts, the 1x solution sounds very promising on a lot of levels...which is why it's becoming so ubiquitous.

    The XX1 options are still pretty stupid expensive. I'm not averse to dropping serious coin on my hobbies, but the cassette price is enough to choke a horse.

    That said, a 1x10 would serve my needs, abilities, and primary terrain. Heck, my last 26 FS was 3x9, and I almost never left the 32T chainring, locally. I could have removed the F Der, F shifter and two chainrings years ago.

    Thanks again. Please feel free to continue adding to the thread!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    An option I like is a quasi-1 x something (8 or 9 in my case), with the bigger chainring acting as an outside guard. On the road, I can manually shift to the bigger gear if needed. No front shifter or derailer.

    For example, 32/36 x 11/36.
    My first "singlespeed" was a variation on this. I had a flip-flop rear hub, with a 16T cog on one side, and an 18T on the other. The crank had both 32T and 36T chainrings. Used an old XT rear mech, no front. It was sweet, because I had a 2:1 ratio regardless of which rear cog was in use, plus a manually shifted second gear, one a little easier, one a little harder than 2:1.

    So it wasn't a singlespeed in the truest sense. More like a three-speeder, though only two in use at one time, but three total ratios.

    Thanks for the trip down memory lane!

  16. #16
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    1x11 isn't worth the cost. I think 1x10 is perfect and makes you stronger while keeping weight down and clutter to a minimum. I'm running 34t Wolf Tooth front and 11-36 rear. Clutch derailleur and no guide and not one dropped chain in 2 months of riding really rocky terrain. I am actually surprised at how quiet it is and how well it functions.

  17. #17
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    I do something similar with my Crosscheck: 34/40 up front, and a rear hub with a 16t fixed on one side, and 16/19 dual speed freewheel on the other. That gives me two fixed gears and three FW gears, with the caveat I have to get off and move the rear wheel around to "shift". It's fun to make single speeds complex!

    Quote Originally Posted by dje31 View Post
    My first "singlespeed" was a variation on this. I had a flip-flop rear hub, with a 16T cog on one side, and an 18T on the other. The crank had both 32T and 36T chainrings. Used an old XT rear mech, no front. It was sweet, because I had a 2:1 ratio regardless of which rear cog was in use, plus a manually shifted second gear, one a little easier, one a little harder than 2:1.

    So it wasn't a singlespeed in the truest sense. More like a three-speeder, though only two in use at one time, but three total ratios.

    Thanks for the trip down memory lane!

  18. #18
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    How do you guys who manually change your front ring keep the chain tensioned?

  19. #19
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    XX1 Alternative

    This is an option if you don't want to go full blown on the XX1 drive-train this replaces the last 4 largest cogs on the cassette. No special hub needed but pairing it with an XX1 crank or similar deep tooth front ring setup makes for a pretty nice 1x10 system. Comes in a few sizes now including a 25/40 and 29/42

    Leonardi Racing General Lee Kassettenadapter 29-42z für Shimano

    27.5 & 29: 2x10 vs 1x11?-p4pb9104717.jpg

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker24 View Post
    How do you guys who manually change your front ring keep the chain tensioned?
    Are you asking how we shifted? Or how to keep the chain tensioned?

    Well, in my case, this was 16 or so years ago, before OEM singlespeeds, with horizontal dropouts, eccentric BBs, etc. We just took an old hardtail and used an old rear derailleur as a tensioner. Or a singelator.

    That allowed me to run two different chainrings, and different cog sizes in the back using a flip-flop hub, pretty much hassle free.

    I rode with guys who were far more coordinated than me who could change the front chainrings on the fly using their foot or hand. I had to stop and flip it with my hand.

  21. #21
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    My CC has horizontal dropouts, so I can slide the rear wheel to adjust the chain tension. A tensioner would also work.

    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker24 View Post
    How do you guys who manually change your front ring keep the chain tensioned?

  22. #22
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    I had no problem climbing on 1x10 with XTR and a 36T up front here in Socal. That included some 3K+ vertical days. My main problem with 1x10 was top end in some Enduros. A 38T was not a good option for me and i spun out a lot on the descents. The 42T is nice in the back for longer days, but the 10T was what I really needed. In the Southeast I would run 1x10 and not even think about it. Just pick up a Wolf Tooth front ring with a clutch RD and have fun!

  23. #23
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    If you don't mind, I'd like to ask a question, I am currently running a 11-32T rear cassette and 24/34 front, I find that I am really struggling on steep ascents. I lack pedal rpm I find compared to the guys I ride with so what is the solution? This could be a 'personal preference' question I realize, but a guide in the right direction will def. help.

    Thanks

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by thrill21 View Post
    If you don't mind, I'd like to ask a question, I am currently running a 11-32T rear cassette and 24/34 front, I find that I am really struggling on steep ascents. I lack pedal rpm I find compared to the guys I ride with so what is the solution? This could be a 'personal preference' question I realize, but a guide in the right direction will def. help.

    Thanks
    Is it a 9 or 10 speed cassette, hard tail or full suspension, wheel size? Solution would be either an 11/34 or 11/36 cassette. If you still had problems then go to a 22T small ring in front. You may need a longer chain if you jump 4 teeth bigger on the cassette. Do you know what cage length you have on the derailleur?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Is it a 9 or 10 speed cassette, hard tail or full suspension, wheel size? Solution would be either an 11/34 or 11/36 cassette. If you still had problems then go to a 22T small ring in front. You may need a longer chain if you jump 4 teeth bigger on the cassette. Do you know what cage length you have on the derailleur?
    Hi thanks, 8 cassette, 29" wheels, hard tail Norco Storm. How do you know cage length? I recognize that my options are limited, I may have to up my cassette, shifter etc.

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