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  1. #51
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    If the price on carbon rims vs aluminum equated to an equal ratio for durability, then it would be reasonable to go carbon. As much as I like Enve rims they are 10x the cost of a Stan's rim and they have not be out long enough to know what the average life span will ultimately be. I may take a chance on Light Bike wheels. Still lust for a Kappius/Enve build though.

  2. #52
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    450g is too heavy for me. I am interested in Light-Bicycle 650b rims, much lighter and 30mm width... Anybody used them before? share some experience?

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by myitch View Post
    These rims are intriguing for the price only when compared to the elites, ala Enve or Easton. But they're still much more than the popular and great Stans rims.

    What are the advantages of these cheaper Chinese rims over the Stans? Weight? Not really. Stiffer? Maybe. But can that REALLY be felt on the ride? Maybe by some. More durable? Still mixed reviews.

    I think carbon frames have proven themselves. But carbon rims? Maybe not yet, at least not at the prices they're asking.

    I know what would convince me! A video like the PinkBike video, the one with them thrashing and stress testing the alu vs. carbon Nomad. If they did some tests like those, then I'd be convinced and more than willing to fork out my cash and sell my whole lot of alu wheelsets. In fact, I'm going to send that video to Nancy at LB and see what she might be able to do.

    UPdate: I sent her a link to the PinkBike video. She said she'll send it to her engineers and see if they can make a video. Now that would be cool if they prove their strength with video!
    It will absolutely outlast aluminum. The one I would like to see is Easton/Enve vs. Chinese. One of those companies should put a stress test video together so we can see what the price difference buys. I have a feeling that people would be sticking with the name brands after that.

  4. #54
    MattSavage
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChristianHuige View Post
    450g is too heavy for me. I am interested in Light-Bicycle 650b rims, much lighter and 30mm width... Anybody used them before? share some experience?
    Alot of people are using them, with mixed results. Derby seems to be a big fan...

    http://forums.mtbr.com/650b-27-5/car...ms-795024.html
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    It will absolutely outlast aluminum. The one I would like to see is Easton/Enve vs. Chinese. One of those companies should put a stress test video together so we can see what the price difference buys. I have a feeling that people would be sticking with the name brands after that.
    More like Enve vs Easton & Chinese....
    All Easton has going for them is a US ofice to deal with in case of warrenty, their carbon rims are made overseas like the th LB rims.

  6. #56
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    They are actually made in Mexico, not China. They have their own factory down there and like most US companies did not want to deal with the EPA.

  7. #57
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    They are actually made in Mexico, not China.
    Not to mention the easton carbon rims have eyelets, are UST certified, and use HDPE which is reportedly less brittle & more impact resistant than typical carbon weave. Not saying there isn't room for improvement with their hubs, but the rims are bomber, and for me their customer service (ordering alternate axles & updating hub guts) has been great.

  8. #58
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    So I got my light bicycle 650b rims stronger version. They weighed 405g and 406g (enve AM are 410g). Laced to Chris king hubs.

    LBS tried to mount nemoto 2.1 rear and 2.3 front unsucsefully. Said they were loose and leaked air leaked with the compressor. They stopped ( they are very conservative with what they will set up tubless for safety reasons). They then Mounted a pair of 2.35 Nobby Nics that set up quick, tight and sealed well. It's a little more tire in the rear than I wanted. (RR are not an option because sidewalks too thin)

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bones2 View Post
    So I got my light bicycle 650b rims stronger version. They weighed 405g and 406g (enve AM are 410g). Laced to Chris king hubs.

    LBS tried to mount nemoto 2.1 rear and 2.3 front unsucsefully. Said they were loose and leaked air leaked with the compressor. They stopped ( they are very conservative with what they will set up tubless for safety reasons). They then Mounted a pair of 2.35 Nobby Nics that set up quick, tight and sealed well. It's a little more tire in the rear than I wanted. (RR are not an option because sidewalks too thin)
    I guess this thread went off topic from the "Yoeleo" rims subject. Sorry, I have no experience with Yoeleo rims, they do look nice having a rounded outside style.

    Regarding Bones2 problem, I mounted 2.3 Neo-motos using ghetto rim strips over 2 rounds of 1" reinforced packing tape, and Stan's sealant, with no sealing problems while mounting using soapy water around the beads and a floor pump on the L-B regular rims. They hold air as well for as many days as previously using Velocity Blunt and P35 rims.

    Before going to ghetto strips I had frequent air burp problems when riding rocks, landing jumps, and hard cornering even pealed the tire off the rim a couple times, with Velocity rims and Neo-moto's using Stan's rubber strips.

    These L-B rims were harder to spoon the beads over the rim, needing near maximum effort with tire levers. My old Blunt and P35 do appear to have a deeper inside channel.

  10. #60
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    Thanks derby! your info is a large part of why I converted my Mojo HD to 650.

    Is the neomoto a true tubless ready bead??

    The mechanic who mounted my tires were mentioning that the channel was deeper than Stan's and that that may have contributed to the looseness. Does the extra layers of ghetto strips help with that? I think they just put a rim strip to seal the spoke wholes. I have never experienced a burb, And dont want to, someone died near me last year from a suspected ghetto tubeless set up where the tire came off. I will take peace of mind over a faster rolling rear tire.

  11. #61
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bones2 View Post
    Thanks derby! your info is a large part of why I converted my Mojo HD to 650.

    Is the neomoto a true tubless ready bead??

    The mechanic who mounted my tires were mentioning that the channel was deeper than Stan's and that that may have contributed to the looseness. Does the extra layers of ghetto strips help with that? I think they just put a rim strip to seal the spoke wholes. I have never experienced a burb, And dont want to, someone died near me last year from a suspected ghetto tubeless set up where the tire came off. I will take peace of mind over a faster rolling rear tire.
    I have 3 Neos mounted tubeless on 3 different rims. Neo 2.3 on Stans 355; Neo 2.1 on Velocity Blunt; Neo 2.1 on WTB Laserdisc Trail. All with tape & sealant only- no rimstrips. Not sure about whether the beads are " true" TLR, but I know Pacenti has zero qualms about mounting his tires tubeless. My method is to wrap a few layers of gorilla tape around the rim, insert valve and then mount the tires, then inject sealant thru the valve, then slosh the sealant around. IME when you mount tires you know how easy they may or may not seat depending on how easy they go on. The easier to mount, the harder to seat. The 2.3's seated on the 355's much easier than the other two. Those required much effort and voodoo to seat. Such as squirting a bead of sealant around the outside of the rims between the tire beads and letting it dry for 24 hours to create a semi airtight seal, then inflating with compressor and using sudsy soapy water. Once seated inflate to 40 psi and let "cure" for a day before using. I'm north of 180 lbs and run them at 30 psi rear and 27 psi front. Never had a burp or flat in two seasons but the do require topping off pressure before riding
    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

  12. #62
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    Neo-motos, and every 650b tire I'm aware of so far, have clincher hook beads designed for inside tube pressure to clinch the bead to the inside of the rim and be held from lifting off the rim by the rim's clincher bead hook.

    Converting clincher bead tires to tubeless is always experimental, and often requires filling the rim's bead centering TR shoulder or wider channel with layers of tape to obtain a tightly centered bead which won't lift or move inside the rim easily without an inner tube to lock the beads in place.

    TR (Tubeless Ready) tires have the same bead profile as a UST (Universal Standard Tubeless) tire, the difference in tires is the UST tires have more rubber in the casing to hold air pressure without sealant.

    UST rims also have a clincher bead hook, plus a flat inside bead centering shoulder which has a UST tire bead lock on each side next to the middle channel.

    TR rims are similar to UST having just a tire bead centering flat inside shoulder and clincher bead hook, but TR rims have no UST tire bead hooks inside the flat shoulder next to the channel.

    Rims are beginning to appear having no clincher bead hooks, much like motorcycle and car tire rims, relying on inside rim shoulders to keep any clincher, TR, or UST tire centered and prevent the bead from lifting off the rim. The advantages for bicycle rims having no clincher bead hooks are lighter weight and wider inside rim width.

    Use your favorite internet search tool on "UST" to find a picture of this standard of rim design. I think Mavic has good pictures of this.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby View Post
    UST rims also have a clincher bead hook, plus a flat inside bead centering shoulder which has a UST tire bead lock on each side next to the middle channel.

  14. #64
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    It would be great if there was more standardization for tires so there would be not worries when paying car tire prices for bike tires and finding they don't work tubeless. Stan's 355 works fine with WTB Exiwolf's but they blow off the Crest. In comparison to the 355, it seems the bead hook has been minimized for wt reduction.

    I heard that WTB will modify their bead to work best with a rim that they will be releasing for OEM sales. This must be the exception as it doesn't make sense for the industry will not be heading to proprietary tire/rim combinations.

    The extra meat in the sidewall of the UST's are great for heavier riders and rock protection but the selection seems to be declining - hope they are not on their way out.

  15. #65
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    [QUOTE=mattsavage;9901580]Alot of people are using them, with mixed results. Derby seems to be a big fan...

    Thank you!
    I noticed their wide 29er rims seem very popular on MTB, they have a great after-sale service and warranty.
    Their 650b rims haven't been sold for long, I believe they would keep their 650b rims improving to expand further market? Really hope so!

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by etanc View Post
    It would be great if there was more standardization for tires so there would be not worries when paying car tire prices for bike tires and finding they don't work tubeless. Stan's 355 works fine with WTB Exiwolf's but they blow off the Crest. In comparison to the 355, it seems the bead hook has been minimized for wt reduction.

    I heard that WTB will modify their bead to work best with a rim that they will be releasing for OEM sales. This must be the exception as it doesn't make sense for the industry will not be heading to proprietary tire/rim combinations.

    The extra meat in the sidewall of the UST's are great for heavier riders and rock protection but the selection seems to be declining - hope they are not on their way out.
    There is standardization: UST. Stans is not a UST rim, so using it tubeless with any tire is a gamble.
    If you have a tire with UST bead (not necessarily a UST tire, explained in post above) and a UST rim you will be fine most of the time. Not even UST rims, "UST like" rims are usually fine
    Stans tries to save weight by making the bead hook smaller (and not using eyelets). I am all for saving weight, but not this way.

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    Anybody know anything about Yoeleo?

    27.5" MTB Rims - 27.5" Carbon MTB Mountain Bike Clincher Rims 25mm Single Rim

    I hate things that sound too good to be true

    Anyone try out this, any lucky?

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