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  1. #1
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    New question here. Need a bunch of help with a 26er build

    Hello and thanks in advance for your help!! I will warn you though, I am an absolute noob with exactly 0 clue about any of this so if you can take it easy on me I would appreciate it... if not, well any help appreciated nonetheless!!


    I have a 2009 Fuji Outland RC frame and a 2015 Manitou Circus Expert 130mm and nothing else.. Iíve been sitting on these parts for a couple yrs and would like to finally finish this build without breaking the bank but have no clue how to go about it or what is even compatible with what I have. I plan on riding recreationally with ocasional trips to the local MTB trails, a little bit of DH maybe a dirt jump here and there (multi purpose in mind)


    Frame technical info and original parts: http://archive.fujibikes.com/2009/Fuji/outland-rc4

    I went to a bike co-op club and they told me I need to figure out the following:



    Wheels: Fork has a 100mm 20mm thru axle and requires some kind of compatible disc-break wheel - need something decent but not expensive


    Rear has a 135mm dropout - no clue what kinda wheel itíll take (originally this came with a Shimano XT Tubeless Disc, 26") - looking for decent quality but nothing very expensive


    What kind of headset/adapter could I buy that will fit the frame and fork I have? (Circus expert steerer = 1 1/8" Aluminum/1.5" Taper and frame originally comes with a Ritchey Logic Zero Pro 1 1/8" Press Fit Integrated, 30mm spacers - none of which I have)


    Brakes: hydraulic vs mechanical disc brakes (frame originally comes with hydraulic) - whatís a good buy?


    Bottom bracket and drive train recommendations? Originally the frame comes with a Shimano XT, 11-34T 9-speed


    What derailers? Seems like everything was Shimano XT originally...


    Original crankset: Shimano XT Hollow Tech II w/Integrated spindle, 22/32/44T


    Sorry about all the questions but please know I tremendously appreciate any help youíre able to provide...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Need a bunch of help with a 26er build-d9f16867-0c9e-437e-8e53-87b02ca814f9.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Need a bunch of help with a 26er build

    For each component, there are many possible options so no easy answers. I would look for used parts and spend as little as possible, as your cost will exceed what the bike will be worth after you are done. However, it will be a good learning exercise.

    The main thing is finding a headset that allows the tapered fork to fit your straight steerer tube. They were available at one point, but I believe they are becoming difficult to find. The Cane Creek website has a good headset selector. Youíll need to take a bunch of measurements and plug them into the selector.

    Shimano XT for your other components will be fine and they are easily found used on eBay, Craigslist and PinkBike.com BuySell. With Shimano you can mix and match so not everything needs to be XT. You could use SLX, XTR and Deore and mix and match. If you will be riding mostly downhill, then there are other options that are intended for that. There are also other brands such as SRAM that will work fine, so it all depends on what you could find for a good price.

    For the disk brakes, Iíd look at hydraulic only.

    For the drivetrain, you could stick with a 3x9 setup (3 chainrings on the front and 9 cogs in the back) or you could look at a 2x10 or other configurations such as 1x10 and 1x11. 3x9 and 2x10 are easy to find used and also cheap as many people are converting to 1x11 and 1x12.

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  3. #3
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    Thatís great advice to buy most of it used!

    For the headset, seems like I would need a 1.5>1-1/8" bottom adapter? Unfortunately crane creek seems to be doing maintenance on their headset selector tool

    Whatís a good way to figure out which wheels I can use for this setup? Seems like the fork requires thru axle but rear doesnít?

  4. #4
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    Hereís more info on the type of headset you need: http://www.bikeradar.com/news/articl...d-tubes-25275/


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  5. #5
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    If it were me... and take this as just opinion, I'd bin he fork and find something else, 1-1/8 steerer and probbly against popular opinion get non through axle. Just that 20mm through axle seems to be more dead than a dropout, but that way you can buy any old (old) wheelset/hubs and they'll match front and rear. Then XT everything brakes, mechs, shifters cranks (or just replace XT with SLX/Deore depending on the pricepoint you want to hit).
    All the gear and no idea.

  6. #6
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    The frame was originally designed for a 100mm fork and I got a 130mm... I am now worried this will alter the geometry so badly that the bike might ride like crap... I am also thinking about selling this brand new fork before cutting the pipe or puting any use on it.... thoughts?

  7. #7
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    Depends on your budget, but making a tapered fork work might be a pain. The front wheel needs to be a 20mm x 110. Old 20mm forks are actually 110mm spacing but it was before the whole boost thing, so no one really talked about it. The rear is a 135mm x 9mm. Pretty much any quick release wheel will work. Wheels should be pretty easy to find in mtbr or pinkbike classifieds. The 20mm front might be hard to find but many decent front wheels can be converted between 20, 15, and 9mm standards by swapping end caps.
    Looking for a Medium Scott Scale frame, preferably a 2012 in 26.

  8. #8
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    Also how much travel does the fork have? Measure the distance between the start of the stanchion at the crown and go to the seal on the lowers. It looks like a 140mm to me which is a little long and will drastically through off the geometry. The bike is designed around 100mm fork, so I would try to find one of those.
    Looking for a Medium Scott Scale frame, preferably a 2012 in 26.

  9. #9
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    Need a bunch of help with a 26er build

    Quote Originally Posted by Crsuribe View Post
    The frame was originally designed for a 100mm fork and I got a 130mm... I am now worried this will alter the geometry so badly that the bike might ride like crap... I am also thinking about selling this brand new fork before cutting the pipe or puting any use on it.... thoughts?
    And with the special headset you need, it will make it worse, as the bearing will sit below the headtube. Yes, I would buy another fork that is more suitable to the frame design.


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  10. #10
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    That frame came with a 100mm travel fork. It is usually said that you should not use a fork beyond 20mm more, so a 130 is pushing a bit past that.

    I pretty much agree with mike-git above. That was one of the great things about 26ers, they were a lot more consistent with parts, I don't think you'll have much difficulty finding compatible parts. In regards to brakes, I have a bike with hydros and one with mechanicals; I like the hydros much more, I keep thinking about buying some to replace the mechanicals.
    There are two types of people in this world:
    1) Those who can extrapolate from incomplete data

  11. #11
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    This is all great advice! Thank you folks. I have the fork on ebay and will put it up on the classifieds section as well... at least itís brand new so hopefully wonít be too hard to find a new home for it

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