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  1. #1
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    Help With 1993 Stumpjumper FS

    Just bought this bike and would like to convert the front end from the stock FS to a rigid fork with a 27.5 wheel and disc brake.

    I'd be using this for trail and gravel riding here in WI during the spring through late fall months.

    Looking for durability over flashiness as I weigh over 200#.

    Budget isn't too much of a concern, but I'm hoping not to throw a pile of money out the window.

    Other than the changes to the fork and wheel I don't know much about the parts I'll need or how to go about this so any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Just wondering why you want the 27.5 vs a 26" wheel? Does your frame have a 1" or 1 1/8" headset? If its an inch headset then you may be limited to a 26" wheel, not sure. Adding the longer fork to accommodate the larger wheel will slack out your head and seat tube angles also.

  3. #3
    Hardtail Steel Forever
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    Adding front height to these older frames often completely messes up the feel just a word of caution on that.

    It's hard to immediately suggest anything. We would need to know the headtube size as JPL65 suggested. We also need to know if it's threaded or threadless.
    WTB: Med Bontrager Ti Lite, PM Me...

  4. #4
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    I by no means wish to discourage anyone from re purposing an older mtb, I have a couple myself. Your easiest way might be a new 26" threadless fork, you get to use threadless stems and don't throw your geo all out of whack, then just run taller[wider] tires if you want something closer to 27.5. You are only looking at $150 more or less cost wise.

  5. #5
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    I thought for some reason because the original fork is suspended that if I bumped it up to 27.5 rigid it would be close to the same head angle as originally intended, but as I said before, my experience and knowledge of these things are very limited.

    That being said, would it be better to find a specialized direct drive fork that fits my frame and upgrade to vbrakes, keeping the front 26? Are there aftermarket options allowing for a disc brake on the front (i realize a new wheel would be necessary)?

    My first bike was a white stumpjumper comp with red decals around 1990 and I rode that thing until the chainstay rusted through from chainsuck. When I saw this rig up for sale nostalgia took hold and I made the purchase because I LOVED riding that bike and am hoping to get back into it.

    Thanks for your replies.

  6. #6
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    It could be very close to the same height with the right fork. The diameter and type of headset/headtube you have will say a lot as to what options are available.
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  7. #7
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    Is it the head tube inner or outer diameter that will tell me the necessary info?

    This is the steel model not the M2 if that helps.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bunzeye View Post
    Is it the head tube inner or outer diameter that will tell me the necessary info?

    This is the steel model not the M2 if that helps.
    Here's a good guide.

    https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html

    You can either measure the fork steerer or the inside diameter of the headtube.

    The steerer is what the actual 1in or 1 1/8in is based on, but it's still not actually those dimensions, 26.4mm for 1in forks and 30mm for 1 1/8 forks. Otherwise, the inside headtube diameter should be 30.2mm for 1in or 34mm for 1 1/8in.

    The other issue is if this has a threaded headset, you are likely going to want to convert to threadless which requires a new headset and stem in addition to the fork.

    Depending on what you have it could be as easy as replacing the fork or as difficult as replacing 3 components, before addressing the front brake.
    WTB: Med Bontrager Ti Lite, PM Me...

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