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  1. #1
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    New question here. Fattest 26 tire for regular MTB?

    Guys,

    I have recently noticed the new +size bikes between the Fat Bike and the regular mountain bike. I think the idea of a fatter tire combined with full suspension makes sense.

    Rather than buying a $4K + bike I want to get some of the same benefit by just putting wider tires on my Specialized FSR. I have 2 inch wide tires on there now but there is more than one inch of clearance all the way around.

    Can anyone recommend a good 26 inch tire at the widest practical limit for regular full suspension mountain bikes?

    Thanks,

    Pete

  2. #2
    nvphatty
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    continental trail king 2.4 is the widest/largest volume NON + tire you'll find. If that ends up being too large then there's numerous others in the 2.3, 2.35 range that should work a treat.

  3. #3
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    2.3 - 2.5 might fit. Year of fsr and rim width? Not going to make it a plus bike though.

  4. #4
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    You won't get much benefit without changing wheels too. Plus tires don't sit well with skinny rims.

    Might want to ask over in the plus bikes sub about tires but if your running stock skinny rims (I don't know what that bike comes with, but 17mm inner seems a common avg) you'll want to add a wheelset to the equation. Otherwise just get some 2.4" tires and enjoy.

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  6. #6
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    I ordered a set of Kenda Nevegal 2.35's for my FSR a couple of days ago. Price Point has them marked down to $19.95 ea.

    Kenda Nevegal 26 inch Folding Tire | DTC | stick -e

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbnInf View Post
    I ordered a set of Kenda Nevegal 2.35's for my FSR a couple of days ago. Price Point has them marked down to $19.95 ea.

    Kenda Nevegal 26 inch Folding Tire | DTC | stick -e
    How much was shipping ?
    Last I checked it was $18.95
    ​​
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PauLCa916 View Post
    How much was shipping ?
    Last I checked it was $18.95
    I also ordered a chain, four tubes, cable/housing kit and two computers. Shipping was $11.27 to North Carolina.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbnInf View Post
    I also ordered a chain, four tubes, cable/housing kit and two computers. Shipping was $11.27.
    Then your lucky when I put a set of Maxxis in my shopping cart and went to check out I didn't only have a shipping charge I had a $18.95 over sized shipping charge to boot so I went else where.
    ​​
    2015 Flyxii / ENVE /Chris King Carbon 29'er H.T.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PauLCa916 View Post
    Then your lucky when I put a set of Maxxis in my shopping cart and went to check out I didn't only have a shipping charge I had a $18.95 over sized shipping charge to boot so I went else where.
    Yeah, some will have oversize charges, probably if they aren't folded up. The ones I bought don't.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbnInf View Post
    I ordered a set of Kenda Nevegal 2.35's for my FSR a couple of days ago. Price Point has them marked down to $19.95 ea.

    Kenda Nevegal 26 inch Folding Tire | DTC | stick -e

    Have you installed them yet? Do they look and feel high volume?

    Is there still plenty of clearance around the back wheel?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedro_uno View Post
    Have you installed them yet? Do they look and feel high volume?

    Is there still plenty of clearance around the back wheel?
    I don't have them yet. I'm sure I'll have enough clearance. All you have to do it measure the clearance you have with your current tires and then calculate much a bigger size would reduce it. Just one of many reasons to have a set of digital calipers in the toolbox.

    Here's a pic of them, it appears they run a little small (not sure what rim size this one is):


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedro_uno View Post
    Not sure if they stock them, but the Hans Dampf are slightly larger than the nic's. Very similar but the dampfs have slightly beefier tread on them.

  14. #14
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    I had a pair of those Nevegals and found them seriously slow rolling.

  15. #15
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    Get a pair of michilen rock'r 2 in 2.35 they are super grippy and are quite a bit larger than they are sized. I'm having clearance issues with mine as we speak. They are priced at about 40 ea h on chain reaction cycles right now. Great tires, I hope I can solve my rub issue so I can sport these things.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedro_uno View Post
    You really want to pedal a 1300+ gram tire for a modest increase in volume?

    I like Maxxis DHF Exo 3c 2.5 front, Ardent Exo 2.4 rear combo.

    I rode Nevegals for a little while because cheap. They roll slow.

  17. #17
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    Just left the shop and had my rock'r2 measured with 35psi. 66mm or 2.598 in.. Wtf, no wonder im having rubbing issues

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    I was in the same boat...

    Hi Pete, I was in the same boat as you a few weeks back. My old Specialised FSR xc was still in good nic and after riding some plus bikes the tyres need to go on a fat diet

    I also changed the fork as well to a 27.5 size so front tyre clearance was no problem. The rear tyre originally was a 2 inch, was not sure if a 2.3 would fit.

    The local Specialised dealers were having a two for one deal, so a cheap up grade I am now running 2.3 front and back.

    Up front the Purgatory

    Fattest 26 tire for regular MTB?-img_1635.jpg

    Out back the Ground Control.

    Fattest 26 tire for regular MTB?-img_1638.jpg

    Very happy with this setup, enough clearance on the rear so no issue with tyre rub. Plenty of grip and with lower pressures, comfort is also better.

    Fattest 26 tire for regular MTB?-img_1633.jpg

    Cannot see much point running wider tyres than these on a xc bike.

    Hope that helps.

  19. #19
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    I initially started with the Conti trail king 2.4 in the front and Mountain King 2.2 in the rear of my Gary Fisher Joshua Y build, while I love the Mountain King as a rear I was not a fan of the Trail King up front. It almost felt too bulky and not as responsive as I liked, so I switched to a Michelin Wild Grip'r 2 2.25 and I'm much happier. You could be happy with the Conti Trail King, we all know tires always feel different to different people.. and if you are interested in the Trail King I've got one I can sell you cheap lol (only 3 rides on it)

  20. #20
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    High Rollers are a great choice for a meaty "regular" sized tire too.
    Grip well, hook well, last well.
    Definitely hold up better than Specialized tires in general (weak sidewalls) and Nevegals (weak everything and fast wearing).
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnordt24 View Post
    I initially started with the Conti trail king 2.4 in the front and Mountain King 2.2 in the rear of my Gary Fisher Joshua Y build, while I love the Mountain King as a rear I was not a fan of the Trail King up front. It almost felt too bulky and not as responsive as I liked, so I switched to a Michelin Wild Grip'r 2 2.25 and I'm much happier. You could be happy with the Conti Trail King, we all know tires always feel different to different people.. and if you are interested in the Trail King I've got one I can sell you cheap lol (only 3 rides on it)
    How do you like that 2.25 grip'r? I bought a set of rock'r 2 2.35 and they are way larger than stated. I have a huge rub issue now on the rear. I was thinking about just pulling my rear rock'r2 and swapping it with a Grip'r 2.25 advanced. I have read that they measure larger than stated as well. What is your experience with it as a tire so far and can you possibly post a couple of pics of the tire. I am not wanting to buy a tire that does not fit again. Could you possibly measure as well if you have calipers?

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  22. #22
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    An Ardent 2.4 just fits within a 100mm Rockshox SiD Team fork arch.
    I'm running a Specialized hub with big diameter end caps and they've helped the stiffness considerably. No tyre rub when leaned over and I run about 17psi in it.
    Stones caught in the tread ping off after they've gone under the arch and hit the riders in front. Makes ME laugh


  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    An Ardent 2.4 just fits within a 100mm Rockshox SiD Team fork arch.
    I'm running a Specialized hub with big diameter end caps and they've helped the stiffness considerably. No tyre rub when leaned over and I run about 17psi in it.
    Stones caught in the tread ping off after they've gone under the arch and hit the riders in front. Makes ME laugh


    Thats my clearance for the rock'r2 2.35. It's nearly 2.6 at 35psi. I'm hoping that the 2.25 grip'r comes in at 2.4 at max. That will be a good front to back size combination and most likely leave me enough clearance. It's mainly the outside knibs on that tire and they rub on a deep lean but they do rub and it bothers me. I do not believe the grip'r outside knobs are quite as large and it should be just a bit smaller tire for sure. I believe that will resolve the issue. I have also considered trimming the knobs a but on this tire but I really can't convince myself that is the best way to resolve this issue.

    My clearance in the front is golden.
    Thats with Manitou Nixon platinum elite. I was way less flex on the front rim than the rear. Don't know why.
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    Last edited by Pedals On; 07-09-2016 at 03:02 PM.

  24. #24
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    FYI, The nevegals at pricepoint were 19.95 as of last night. Today, they are back to are 29.95. Pricepoint is nearly out of every tire brand.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MASC1104 View Post
    FYI, The nevegals at pricepoint were 19.95 as of last night. Today, they are back to are 29.95. Pricepoint is nearly out of every tire brand.
    Mine finally shipped and are due to be delivered Thursday, 2 1/2 weeks after I ordered them. I'd stay away from PP now. They have issues.

  26. #26
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    Chunky Monkey 2.4
    Big, awesome, cheap.

  27. #27
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  28. #28
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    OP, if you're used to 2.0s, you're going to love something wider. Certainly going to a 2.25" Schwalbe Rocket Ron/Racing Ralph combo was a big improvement from the 2.1s I was on previously. But I had some nominal 2.4s (measured more like 2.3, IIRC) on another XC bike and really liked that too.

    If your trails aren't super wet or loose and you care about speed and weight, high volume tires with a modest tread rock. I'm also not convinced more of a tread helps that much on gravel.

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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedro_uno View Post
    Have you installed them yet? Do they look and feel high volume?

    Is there still plenty of clearance around the back wheel?
    I finally got mine. They measured out to @ 2.25. I have more than enough clearance, I could easily fit 2.5's.

  30. #30
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    I hear ya about the tire sizing, when I started biking 20 yrs ago I never had to worry about it. The biggest that was made was 2.0/2.1 and 26 was the only option so everything fit. I actually had to put old school cantilever brakes on the rear of my Joshua, I needed the extra height of the wire V-hanger to fit the tire with out rub. I love the feel so much better from the grip'r over the trail king, it just feels a lot more responsive. I'll try to take some pics for you later, I've had a baby and moved in the past month so things have been crazy and I haven't even been on a ride since the day before my baby was born. I don't have any calipers to measure, but hopefully the pics I'll take will be of some use ;-)

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    You won't get much benefit without changing wheels too. Plus tires don't sit well with skinny rims.

    Might want to ask over in the plus bikes sub about tires but if your running stock skinny rims (I don't know what that bike comes with, but 17mm inner seems a common avg) you'll want to add a wheelset to the equation. Otherwise just get some 2.4" tires and enjoy.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Bingo! Putting 2.4" tires on skinny rims will make the handling worse. So, you'll need wide rims and also a tubless setup to get the most benefit out of wide tires. Otherwise you'll get a lot of floppage with wide tires on a skinny rim.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals On View Post
    How do you like that 2.25 grip'r? I bought a set of rock'r 2 2.35 and they are way larger than stated. I have a huge rub issue now on the rear. I was thinking about just pulling my rear rock'r2 and swapping it with a Grip'r 2.25 advanced. I have read that they measure larger than stated as well. What is your experience with it as a tire so far and can you possibly post a couple of pics of the tire. I am not wanting to buy a tire that does not fit again. Could you possibly measure as well if you have calipers?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    So far I love the grip'r, I'm glad I made the switch. I don't have caipers, but here are a few pics to give you an idea of size/clearance:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fattest 26 tire for regular MTB?-tire2.jpg  

    Fattest 26 tire for regular MTB?-tire3.jpg  

    Fattest 26 tire for regular MTB?-tire1.jpg  


  33. #33
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    Tire looks solid. I just have heard quite a few people on the board that say that the non reinforced and advanced rock'r and grip'r are as bad as department store tires. Even if it's just hype it makes me uncomfortable with it. How do they seem to preform for you? I tend to not believe everything I hear but you never know.

    Oh, and that size looks totally manageable.

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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals On View Post
    Tire looks solid. I just have heard quite a few people on the board that say that the non reinforced and advanced rock'r and grip'r are as bad as department store tires. Even if it's just hype it makes me uncomfortable with it. How do they seem to preform for you? I tend to not believe everything I hear but you never know.

    Oh, and that size looks totally manageable.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    So far it has been great, very responsive and holds solidly so I really can't complain. Maybe I should mention that I just got back in to biking a few months ago and my previous front tire was a Panaracer Magic Dart that is about 20 years old, so my only other comparison is the conti trail king 2.4 that I wasn't a fan of so I don't have a lot to compare.

  35. #35
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    I went from 2.0 Captains to Chunky Monkey 2.4 and Smorgasbord 2.24 and it really helped the bike feel more stable and fun to ride. The tires are made by Maxxis and are priced really well. The US store closed so you'll have to order from the PlanetX UK. I'm actually in the process of trying 26+ on this Camber FSR. Going to do some 35mm rims and 3.0 tires, if they fit.



    On-One Chunky Monkey 26"x2.4" Tyre | Planet X


    On-One Smorgasbord 26"x2.25" Tyre | Planet X

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnordt24 View Post
    So far it has been great, very responsive and holds solidly so I really can't complain. Maybe I should mention that I just got back in to biking a few months ago and my previous front tire was a Panaracer Magic Dart that is about 20 years old, so my only other comparison is the conti trail king 2.4 that I wasn't a fan of so I don't have a lot to compare.
    You gap in riding is irrelevant I have faith that you would not comment unless you were confident in doing so. You have been riding for a long time and I'm sure your opinion is solid. They either grip or wash.. You say they do, so I would be willing to give them a shot. At worst they suck, and I honestly doubt they do. Which version did you get and how thick is the sidewall? Supple, soft and durable or thin and weak. I live out CO so it can be a bit rocky here.

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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals On View Post
    You gap in riding is irrelevant I have faith that you would not comment unless you were confident in doing so. You have been riding for a long time and I'm sure your opinion is solid. They either grip or wash.. You say they do, so I would be willing to give them a shot. At worst they suck, and I honestly doubt they do. Which version did you get and how thick is the sidewall? Supple, soft and durable or thin and weak. I live out CO so it can be a bit rocky here.

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    This should tell you all the info you need:
    Michelin Wild Grip'R 2 Advanced Tire 26x2 25" Black | eBay

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnordt24 View Post
    This should tell you all the info you need:
    Michelin Wild Grip'R 2 Advanced Tire 26x2 25" Black | eBay
    I have read descriptive writeups for this tire for a few weeks. I can use Google all day just like the next man. I was just looking for actual feedback on a personal level. Thanks for the info..

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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnordt24 View Post
    So far I love the grip'r, I'm glad I made the switch. I don't have caipers, but here are a few pics to give you an idea of size/clearance:
    Thanks for the pics, tire looks great. That fork is screaming for an overhaul though!

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    I went from 2.0 Captains to Chunky Monkey 2.4 and Smorgasbord 2.24 and it really helped the bike feel more stable and fun to ride. The tires are made by Maxxis and are priced really well. The US store closed so you'll have to order from the PlanetX UK. I'm actually in the process of trying 26+ on this Camber FSR. Going to do some 35mm rims and 3.0 tires, if they fit.



    On-One Chunky Monkey 26"x2.4" Tyre | Planet X


    On-One Smorgasbord 26"x2.25" Tyre | Planet X
    Never heard of either of those tires. They seem interesting to say the least. I read the reviews and they review well.. I may have to look into them for a future build.

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  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals On View Post
    Never heard of either of those tires. They seem interesting to say the least. I read the reviews and they review well.. I may have to look into them for a future build.

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    They're a little heavy, but for about $20 for the chunky monkey, it's pretty crazy how cheap they are.

  42. #42
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    Im running 900g or more right now but they are beast of tires.

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  43. #43
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    I was having so much fun on those tires I never even noticed the extra weight.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals On View Post
    I have read descriptive writeups for this tire for a few weeks. I can use Google all day just like the next man. I was just looking for actual feedback on a personal level. Thanks for the info..

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Sorry, I was only sending you the link so you could see exactly what I bought. The side walls feel fairly firm, but not as much as my Mountain King. I was out again last night and it handled like a champ, even in a little mud. I say go for it, I really don't think you will be disappointed.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erock503 View Post
    Thanks for the pics, tire looks great. That fork is screaming for an overhaul though!
    Haha yeah I know.. it's like 20 years old, but still handles like a champ!

  46. #46
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    I'm with Corn on this one.

    Been running the CM/SB or CM/CM combo a lot.
    Great for the money...

  47. #47
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    If you have wide rims both Mountain Kings and WTB Mutano race, both in 2.4 work very well. The are both really light and wide rims give the sidewalls a lot of support. Both have a nice round tread profile that doesn't flatten out with a wide rim.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnordt24 View Post
    Sorry, I was only sending you the link so you could see exactly what I bought. The side walls feel fairly firm, but not as much as my Mountain King. I was out again last night and it handled like a champ, even in a little mud. I say go for it, I really don't think you will be disappointed.
    No worries man, I think I will pick up some and see how they do for me until I can get some stiffer wheels so that my other tires won't rub. Thank you for the feedback.


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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals On View Post
    No worries man, I think I will pick up some and see how they do for me until I can get some stiffer wheels so that my other tires won't rub. Thank you for the feedback.


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    No problem, glad I could help ;-)

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedro_uno View Post
    Guys,

    I have recently noticed the new +size bikes between the Fat Bike and the regular mountain bike. I think the idea of a fatter tire combined with full suspension makes sense.

    Rather than buying a $4K + bike I want to get some of the same benefit by just putting wider tires on my Specialized FSR. I have 2 inch wide tires on there now but there is more than one inch of clearance all the way around.

    Can anyone recommend a good 26 inch tire at the widest practical limit for regular full suspension mountain bikes?

    Thanks,

    Pete
    Quote Originally Posted by pedro_uno View Post
    I'm thinking Schwalbe Nobby 26x2.35
    It's been 2 weeks since your last post and was curious what you ended up with?? Numerous members(self included) weighed in on your thread to give advice on options for fitment but no place do i see a 'thanks guys' for ideas and opinions....

  51. #51
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    Any thoughts to what size (larger) tire would work if I am running 27 mm wide rims?
    Currently using a 26 in x 2.1 tire but hoping for larger. (getting old, slow and want comfort)
    Thanks for any suggestions...

  52. #52
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    It all depends on your frame and fork. Try 2.4 if you can.
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  53. #53
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    Largest I've been able to fit is a 2.3, and it had nothing to do with the rim. Any bigger and it rubs on the triangle, but your bike could have a larger triangle then mine.

  54. #54
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    You need wider rims to take advantage of wider tires.

  55. #55
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    Fork is a Fox RL 32 Series II on an older Trance X (large).

  56. #56
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    It doesn't necessarily follow that the widest tyre is going to give you the most grip. The difference between a 2.35 and a 2.4 is pretty negligible compared to the differences the tread pattern, type of rubber, construction or even tyre pressure will make.

    If you squeeze in the biggest tyres you can find there's a good chance you'll rub your frame, are you ok with that? I put a big tyre on the back of my hard-tail, I can't remember what width it was, but it had about 3mm clearance either side. I did two runs down a short free-ride track and took the seat-stays down to the metal. Didn't feel it happen. I actually tried shaving the side-knobs on that tyre and it still rubbed.

    What I would recommend it wrapping at least three layers of electrical tape around the stays when you test a wide tyre. Or you could tape a thin piece of plastic on instead. Then test the tyre on the most aggressive trail you ride. If it hits the tape it'll hit the stay. This way you can find out if rub is going to be a show-stopper without messing up your frame.

    With little clearance at the fork arch some tyres can do a brilliant job of picking up stones and removing the paint from the underside of the arch as well. Just something else to watch for. I've got the arch on the hard-tail's Reba wrapped for that reason.

    Personally, I'd forget looking for the widest tyre and just try and find the best 2.3 or 2.35 tyre. That should fit comfortably without pushing your luck.

  57. #57
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    People have been using 2.35-2.4" tires on narrow rims for 20 years. Suddenly they don't work unless you get wider rims. I call shenanigans.

    We're not talking 2.8-3.0" tires here.

  58. #58
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    As stated it depends on your frame.

    I run a 2.35 because it's as big as my frame will allow clearance wise. But it's also the smallest tire I can run on my wheel set. Kinda stuck with that size, but that's alright though because I love that size for the terrain I ride.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  59. #59
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    Good thoughts and thanks for the suggestions.
    And it's kind of funny but one of my riding buddies is receiving
    a pair of 26x2.35 tubeless Maxxis Ignitor's tomorrow.
    He said he would let me throw them on for size.
    So I guess I'll go from there.
    Again, thanks for the help...

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by TakoKichi View Post
    One of my riding buddies is receiving
    a pair of 26x2.35 tubeless Maxxis Ignitor's tomorrow.
    He said he would let me throw them on for size.
    Maxxis tyres seem to be small for their stated size. Yeah, you'd think they'd all be measured the same but no. A Maxxis 2.35 is closer to some 2.2 tyres.

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    You might want to stick with a heavier casings with narrow rims. A supersonic version of a conti would roll over on my 19mm rims with lower pressure. No problem with a racesport version, which has a medium weight casing.

    Or is it the same for all rim widths?

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Maxxis tyres seem to be small for their stated size. Yeah, you'd think they'd all be measured the same but no. A Maxxis 2.35 is closer to some 2.2 tyres.
    Only for the older casings (2.35, old 2.5, 2.7, etc). So you end up with stuff like the newer 2.3 DHF being wider than the old 2.35. The ETRTO measurements on their website should be accurate.

  63. #63
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    Factory DH | Tioga

    I ran Tioga DH's 2.3's and 2.5's for years. Can be a little squirmy on the streets while cornering, but they were almost indestructible for trails and freeride. Good grip, too.

    Too bad they don't make the 2.5" with a Kevlar bead anymore. A steel beaded 1200 gram tire is a bit much to try and move.

  64. #64
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    I had been running the 2.2 Conti mountain king as my rear and it was ok, but I went with my old school roots and decided to try a 2.0 rear and I love it!! I picked up a Micheline Wild grp'r 2.0 and my bike climbs like a mountain goat.. sometimes bigger isn't always better ;-)

  65. #65
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    Not sure if someone said this but on many forks you could try a 26 x 3.0 duro leopard, not sure if it will fit in the back but my old bighit could fit a 24x3.0 no problem

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    I'm also not convinced more of a tread helps that much on gravel.
    I ride dry dirt and gravel in Colorado and I question the need for knobbies...not while having fun on them, but sometimes while web-surfing as I am now and contemplating the more trivial aspects of cycling.

    I run 26" x 1.75" street tires often and they fly on pavement. I've ridden a lot of easy single-track and gravel on them and, with absolutely no actual data to back up this opinion, I think they're faster in most off-road situations than my knobbies. Just a feeling. Feel free to disagree.

    I will say it's fun to put my 26" x 2.1" Panaracer FirePro XC knobbies back on. To me, it's like "hey, instant fat-bike!", which I realize seems silly in this thread about even fatter tries, but it's all relative.

    If I had money to burn, and if I wasn't afraid that the reviews of these are true and therefore I'd never want to ride on anything else again, I'd try a pair of these 26" x 2.3" tires:

    https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...rat-trap-pass/


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    This thread has been super helpful. Thanks for all the responses. My dilemma is my fork. It is a Rock Shox XC 32. I'm looking at moving on up from Continental Race King 2.2s to Mountain King 2.2s. Online the clearance for my forks is 58 mm and the space is already tight with 2.2s.

    I have 2 questions: Anybody put 2.4 tires in this fork? Will getting a fork like a 27.5 Rock Shox XC 30 allow for even bigger tires like 2.6?

  68. #68
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    Buy a calipers. A cheap non digital set is fine. Then you can measure the size of your current tires. You can find measured sizes for other tires in reviews.

    The conventional wisdom about clearance is to keep at least a quarter inch gap all around the tire. An easy way to check that is to see if you can fit a 6 mm Allen key in a gap.

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  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gdillon View Post
    Anybody put 2.4 tires in this fork?
    I can't guarantee it but I think it will fit. my son's bike has an XC32 and all of the tyres I've tried on it fitted ok. The problem with putting big, aggressive tyres on is has been an increase it stone chipping to the bridge. The tyres are very adept at picking up stones and the underside of the bridge is scratched raw.

    As an aside, I often buy cheap velcro chain-stay protectors off ebay and cut a section to fit the bridge on my fork. It protects it from stone chips and I don't know why more people don't do that.

  70. #70
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    Thanks for the replies. This is an end of winter project anyway but good to think and research in the meantime. I already asked for some calipers for Christmas. Great tool to have for the many tires out there!

  71. #71
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    Until you get your calipers could try sticking your tire between a door and jamb inside your house, then measure the opening to get the tire width. I've used a sliding glass door to measure tire diameter.
    Quote Originally Posted by Picard
    Is that German or Polish sausage?

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    If you have wide rims both Mountain Kings and WTB Mutano race, both in 2.4 work very well. The are both really light and wide rims give the sidewalls a lot of support. Both have a nice round tread profile that doesn't flatten out with a wide rim.
    I'm looking at a set of Mutano Race 2.4 - I read in the reviews that they tend to come in narrow, more like a 2.25. Is that your experience too? I really like that they're sub 600g!

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn-dave View Post
    I'm looking at a set of Mutano Race 2.4 - I read in the reviews that they tend to come in narrow, more like a 2.25. Is that your experience too? I really like that they're sub 600g!
    They are hard to find. If I remember right, I can check tonight if you remind me, they are about 55mm at the tread. Because of their light weight I run them in the low 20's.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeeze View Post

    If I had money to burn, and if I wasn't afraid that the reviews of these are true and therefore I'd never want to ride on anything else again, I'd try a pair of these 26" x 2.3" tires:

    https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...rat-trap-pass/

    Thanks for making me want to spend 120 bucks on tires for my 75 dollar commuter.

  75. #75
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    I go back and forth on putting fancy tires on my commuters. Thing is that they make a huge difference in ride quality and you only live once.

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  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    They are hard to find. If I remember right, I can check tonight if you remind me, they are about 55mm at the tread. Because of their light weight I run them in the low 20's.
    I'm over in Europe-there's a seller on the german ebay.de with a bunch of them cheap (18)! They'd be going on my single speed. I figure though, if i'm gonna replace my 1.9 rear and 2.1 front, I may as well go for something fat! (My other ride has 27.5x2.25, so even that has spoiled me.)

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    ...I can check tonight if you remind me, they are about 55mm at the tread. Because of their light weight I run them in the low 20's.
    reminder

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn-dave View Post
    reminder
    It'll have to wait till morning. If I forget, please remind me again. But, I promise I will get it. Here's a picture to hold you over.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    People have been using 2.35-2.4" tires on narrow rims for 20 years. Suddenly they don't work unless you get wider rims. I call shenanigans.

    We're not talking 2.8-3.0" tires here.
    Yeah I'm with you. The difference in tire profile with wider rims is probably less than going up a size in width. I've got no idea what my rim width is.
    I ride 90% of the time on 2.35, and put 2.5 Super Tacky High Rollers on if I'm racing or have a gondola. But then I'm in the high 20's for PSI. Anything less and I hate the squirming feeling. Plus, I like my rims, so prefer them not touching the ground.

    I'd much rather go with a sticker version of a narrow tire, than trying to squeeze a wider one in.
    I'd like to see that fork in post 22 with no air in it to see what the clearance is like when the fork is bottomed out.

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    People have been using 2.35-2.4" tires on narrow rims for 20 years. Suddenly they don't work unless you get wider rims. I call shenanigans.

    We're not talking 2.8-3.0" tires here.
    Umm no, the wider rims make them work much better and allow lower PSIs compared to narrow rims. And, carbon technology has recently allowed rim makers to make wide, light rims. It's not that narrow rims don't work. It's more of, wider rims work better, much better.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    Yeah I'm with you. The difference in tire profile with wider rims is probably less than going up a size in width. I've got no idea what my rim width is.
    I ride 90% of the time on 2.35, and put 2.5 Super Tacky High Rollers on if I'm racing or have a gondola. But then I'm in the high 20's for PSI. Anything less and I hate the squirming feeling. Plus, I like my rims, so prefer them not touching the ground.

    I'd much rather go with a sticker version of a narrow tire, than trying to squeeze a wider one in.
    I'd like to see that fork in post 22 with no air in it to see what the clearance is like when the fork is bottomed out.
    How is clearance going to be an issue if the tire isn't even touching the fork arch?

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    It's not that narrow rims don't work. It's more of, wider rims work better, much better.
    It's not really quantifiable though is it. Is it worth a second on your favourite run? Like so many things mountainbike related, there's no real data. So you widen the rim by 3mm per side (I looked up my rims, 24mm internal), so I have an extra 6mm of width going to ENVE M70 or Stans Flow EX What does that increase the tire's volume by? How many psi can I drop safely? 5 psi? 10?
    I can ride my tires as low as 15psi on smooth trails, but it feels awful. Funnily enough it feels like riding on a flat. Plus if I rode anywhere rocky I'd ruin the rim.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    It's not really quantifiable though is it. Is it worth a second on your favourite run? Like so many things mountainbike related, there's no real data. So you widen the rim by 3mm per side (I looked up my rims, 24mm internal), so I have an extra 6mm of width going to ENVE M70 or Stans Flow EX What does that increase the tire's volume by? How many psi can I drop safely? 5 psi? 10?
    I can ride my tires as low as 15psi on smooth trails, but it feels awful. Funnily enough it feels like riding on a flat. Plus if I rode anywhere rocky I'd ruin the rim.
    Yeah I know, it's unbelievable that you can change something on a mountain bike by a few millimeters, and it can make such a big difference. But you know, if you change a stem by 10mm or seatpost height by 10mm or anything else you can think of, it'll make a big difference. Same with rim width, a little goes a long way as to how your tire works. It straightens the sidewalls up and makes them many times stronger, which allows much less lateral tire flex. And, it allows less psi, which helps with traction. But, finding the right psi is very important.

  84. #84
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    For me, wider rims allow me to ride at the same speeds. I don't need to ride any faster. But I can ride much more relaxed. Which means I expend less energy, and my rides are much safer and more fun. The stability of my mountain bike feels more like my KTM than a mountain bike. It's the single best mod I've ever made. My Derbys are wider, lighter, stronger and better looking. There's no negatives in that. I think it's one of the best advancements in mountain bikes.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    How is clearance going to be an issue if the tire isn't even touching the fork arch?
    Because on the odd fork a tire will clear the arch, but not the crown when bottomed out. And at a guess the last place you'll want your wheel to come to a dead stop is when you've run out of suspension travel...
    It's been awhile since I've looked at a SID but I vaguely recall there was no max width but they needed 6mm clearance between the tire and crown when bottomed. Obviously clearing the arch is a no brainer, but one should always check.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    Because on the odd fork a tire will clear the arch, but not the crown when bottomed out. And at a guess the last place you'll want your wheel to come to a dead stop is when you've run out of suspension travel...
    It's been awhile since I've looked at a SID but I vaguely recall there was no max width but they needed 6mm clearance between the tire and crown when bottomed. Obviously clearing the arch is a no brainer, but one should always check.
    Forks haven't have that problem for several years. So, it would have to be an old fork.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    My Derbys are wider, lighter, stronger and better looking. There's no negatives in that. I think it's one of the best advancements in mountain bikes.
    I looked at carbon rims a month or two ago, mainly for cosmetic reasons and I'm running out of things to change. I test rode a friend's ENVE equipped bike, same tires as mine, Minion DHF/DHR same hubs, and I couldn't tell any difference.
    Then I did the maths, which was worse. I could save 114g for no discernible performance difference other than the fact I really, really like look of them. They felt no stiffer coming down, or lighter up the subsequent climb.
    The $37 per gram meant the accountant in me outweighed the weight weenie!

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    I looked at carbon rims a month or two ago, mainly for cosmetic reasons and I'm running out of things to change. I test rode a friend's ENVE equipped bike, same tires as mine, Minion DHF/DHR same hubs, and I couldn't tell any difference.
    Then I did the maths, which was worse. I could save 114g for no discernible performance difference other than the fact I really, really like look of them. They felt no stiffer coming down, or lighter up the subsequent climb.
    The $37 per gram meant the accountant in me outweighed the weight weenie!
    For me and thousands and thousands of other people, read the treads, wide rims have made a big difference. All those people can't be wrong. Maybe you don't ride that hard. Companies are making + size stuff because people want it.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    For me and thousands and thousands of other people, read the treads, wide rims have made a big difference. All those people can't be wrong. Maybe you don't ride that hard. Companies are making + size stuff because people want it.
    People can be wrong all the time. How many people spend $4000 on a wheelset (I've no idea what an ENVE or Derby wheelset is in USD) and can be genuinely critical?
    I've no idea how hard I ride. I don't race DH anymore, I'm in my thirties and work fulltime, plus I ride on my own a lot. So I think I ride at perhaps 80%. I haven't damaged a wheel for probably 5 years either. I'm not sure how much more time I need to spend riding something, 2 hours was enough I thought. Plus he was on my bike so I could compare directly. I'll certainly concede that the fairest way would have to have put the wheels on my bike, but our rear axles were different.

    You have to take the threads with a grain of salt, I read thread after thread about how good the Pike was and mine was awful. But I digress.
    I'd still wager tire compound is more of an influence on a ride than rim width.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Companies are making + size stuff because people want it.
    That made me laugh. Companies are making + size stuff because they reckon they can sell it. A bit like 650B. No one was screaming out for it, certainly not riders.

  91. #91
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    Yeah ok, tens of thousands of people are wrong. And you, who haven't spent shit for time on them are right. They recon they can sell it because people want it. And, yes people are screaming for it. Where have you been? Try reading some threads around here. And, plus size stuff is selling very good, if you haven't noticed. Try spending some quality time on them before you go spewing shit. Or it could be you're just not the type of rider that won't denefit from them. Like a slow XC rider that just sits in the seat all day and spins. Either way, you shouldn't spew shit, if you don't understand it.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    And you, who haven't spent shit for time on them are right.Try spending some quality time on them before you go spewing shit. Or it could be you're just not the type of rider that won't denefit from them. Like a slow XC rider that just sits in the seat all day and spins. Either way, you shouldn't spew shit, if you don't understand it.
    So I spent two hours riding a wheelset before deciding I wouldn't buy it? How much longer should I test it? Even the owner of them says he bought them purely for cosmetic reasons. I was genuinely excited to try them. I"m not sure how many people are actually in a position to test a wheelset.
    I don't work in a bike shop, so I've no idea how many fatties or plus size bikes are selling. I've seen two 6Fatties in the last couple of months where I ride. Do I need to test ride one to decide I don't want one? Will all that extra sidewall revolutionise my ride? Possibly, or will I risk tearing them on something rowdy. I'm not sure if I qualify as an XC rider. I do my share of sitting and spinning. To get to the top, so I can ride down as fast as I can.

  93. #93
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    You don't need to go carbon to go wider. I don't feel comfortable spending that much money on rims myself. But going from 17 to 25 mm internal width sure feels better.

    It's like going from a flexy fork to a stiff fork. With the flexy fork, I didn't necessarily feel a problem. I thought I just wasn't picking my line well enough. With a stiff fork, my front wheel tracked better. Pretty much the same deal here.

    Sure, it's hard to quantify the difference. But it's frustrating to have my front wheel slip around. That happens less with wider rims. I call that a win.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    So I spent two hours riding a wheelset before deciding I wouldn't buy it? How much longer should I test it? Even the owner of them says he bought them purely for cosmetic reasons. I was genuinely excited to try them. I"m not sure how many people are actually in a position to test a wheelset.
    I don't work in a bike shop, so I've no idea how many fatties or plus size bikes are selling. I've seen two 6Fatties in the last couple of months where I ride. Do I need to test ride one to decide I don't want one? Will all that extra sidewall revolutionise my ride? Possibly, or will I risk tearing them on something rowdy. I'm not sure if I qualify as an XC rider. I do my share of sitting and spinning. To get to the top, so I can ride down as fast as I can.
    Man, I don't know what to tell you. You won't even be open about the possibility that they are good. You've only spent a short time on them, on a bike that you're not familiar with. You don't seem to even understand how big the + movement is. You sound like one of these guys that think the bike industry is out to steal your money. Bikes are changing and they are getting better all the time. Thats not going to stop or change. I can understand if you don't want to chase new bikes or parts with your money. So, just ride what you got. I've been on mountain bikes for 30 years, two wheels for 40 years. I know almost instantly what works for me and what doesn't. Wide rims work beautifully for me and my type off riding.

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    You don't need to go carbon to go wider. I don't feel comfortable spending that much money on rims myself. But going from 17 to 25 mm internal width sure feels better.

    It's like going from a flexy fork to a stiff fork. With the flexy fork, I didn't necessarily feel a problem. I thought I just wasn't picking my line well enough. With a stiff fork, my front wheel tracked better. Pretty much the same deal here.

    Sure, it's hard to quantify the difference. But it's frustrating to have my front wheel slip around. That happens less with wider rims. I call that a win.
    You can quantify it with your ass, hands and feet. Like going form a 27.5 stem and bar to 31.8. You can feel the extra stiffness before you even get on the bike. I paid $1400 for my 40mm external Derby rims, Hadley hubs, DT Swiss spokes and Sapim nips. That's not a bad price and you'd be hard pressed to find parts more durable than those.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    I've been on mountain bikes for 30 years, two wheels for 40 years. I know almost instantly what works for me and what doesn't. Wide rims work beautifully for me and my type off riding.
    I'm pleased you know exactly what works for you, I'm fairly certain I can judge what I like as well. I'm glad the + industry is taking off where you live. I have a pile of Maxxis Mobster's in 2.7 that someone can try stretch onto some 584mm rims.
    They're nearly 70mm in width. I never realised I was riding plus bikes all that time. I've even got a 3" Gazza somewhere too.
    I rode my previous bike for nearly 10 years, and had my current one for 2 years so I'm not immune to change. In fact I very nearly bought the 29 version of my bike. About the only thing I know for certain about mountainbiking is that fast riders are fast regardless of what they're riding.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    You don't need to go carbon to go wider. I don't feel comfortable spending that much money on rims myself. But going from 17 to 25 mm internal width sure feels better.
    Oh I agree, I think Stans Flow EX are great value, and around 29mm internal. I'd just assumed my OEM wheels were narrow. They look narrow, but they're still 24mm. I'll worry about when the current ones give up. I've respoked the rear so it ought to be good for awhile. I don't think I've ever noticed wheel flex, QR to 20mm axle was a substantial difference. The front wheel held it's line through rougher sections better.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    I'm pleased you know exactly what works for you, I'm fairly certain I can judge what I like as well. I'm glad the + industry is taking off where you live. I have a pile of Maxxis Mobster's in 2.7 that someone can try stretch onto some 584mm rims.
    They're nearly 70mm in width. I never realised I was riding plus bikes all that time. I've even got a 3" Gazza somewhere too.
    I rode my previous bike for nearly 10 years, and had my current one for 2 years so I'm not immune to change. In fact I very nearly bought the 29 version of my bike. About the only thing I know for certain about mountainbiking is that fast riders are fast regardless of what they're riding.
    Those tires will flex like shit on narrow rims. That's the whole problem. People kept asking tire makers for wider tires with more volume. But rim tech wasn't there to make a light wide rim. Wide rim have been around for a long time. But they have always been too heavy to be of any benefit. Now with carbon, you can have a much wider rim with the weight of a narrow rim. You don't realize how much wide tires flex on narrow rims until you try them on wide rims. On narrow rims you have to run high pressures to keep rims safe. Which means you're not really able to take advantage of the tires width. I tried 3" tires in narrow rims years ago. They were horrible. How I can have great traction, and a strong light rim/tire at a low psi. And, my setup is lighter than my aluminum wheelset with 2.25" tires. It's all win!

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    Oh, I see now. You live in Texas. You don't have any real mountains there. That make a lot of sense.

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Those tires will flex like shit on narrow rims.
    You can read how much a tire deflects on modern rims here.
    Is wider always better? - ENVE Composites

    I couldn't tell you the internal width of the rims I was running then. They were Sun Double Track somethings? Sun Ringle? That may've been the hub. I'll have to find a picture and check what they were. The issue with wide tires then wasn't the flex, or even the grip. It was weight.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Oh, I see now. You live in Texas. You don't have any real mountains there. That make a lot of sense.
    They don't use $US in Texas?

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