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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    Maybe the front chainrings are irrelevant because most of them are 22, 32, 42t; it's the cogs on the back that make the difference for climbing, correct? Do I really have the same range on a 7-speed 14-28t that someone has on an 11-speed 10-46t? Again, you can argue math all day, but I notice a huge difference even between 14-28t and 11-30t. 14-28t is so bad that I like to double-upshift just to get anything meaningful out of the gears, so I often use 1, 3, 5, 7 in the middle gear and forget 2, 4, 6. Top speed on a 14t back, and high front ring is a pathetic 15 mph, it's more like 25 mph on an 11t. Is any of this news to you guys?
    None of this is news to us, but it will be to you when you finally figure this out. This is the problem with the pages and pages of strongly held opinions you offer as advice in the Beginner forum. Your argumentative and even arrogant approach to discussing things you clearly don't understand is borderline impressive.

    I think you need to stop for a second and think about what gearing is. There is no need to "argue the math" as it's very simple, even without doing basic division. How can you possibly think the chainring (in front) is irrelevant when considering how difficult it is to climb with a given drivetrain. The gearing ratio is the critical factor for how hard it is to climb in a gear combination, or how fast you can go at a version cadence. Cassettes used to be a lot smaller because they were paired with multiple chainrings. With a single ring, the cassette needs to have a much larger range in order for the drivetrain to have a useful range, because you aren't changing chainring sizes.

  2. #202
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    Hahahaha... Yup, been around the block.

    I was also a moderator on Bikeforums for a few years.

    My history: I rode 20's from age 7 to early teens. Skateboarded street until 1996. Started riding 26" in 1996. Raced a bit on 2005-2007 (or 2008, can't remember). Been riding for fun again since I quit racing.

    Been building bikes from scratch since 2005. Modding bikes since 1980's. Owned / built single pivot, faux bar, 4-bar and a bunch of rigid and hardtails.

    I've also been a huge proponent of the 1x drivetrain since 2005.

    Hardtails are my favorite.

  3. #203
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    Been riding and building since 91-ish.
    One thing I've learned very well in that time is that the bike and it's particulars are far, far less important than the rider. I've been left in the dust on so many different bikes by guys on so many other different bikes that it's ridiculous.
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  4. #204
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    What happened while I was away at work? There's no way I'm reading all that, at least it's on the other page now so I don't have to look at all those words.

    BTW, can anyone tell me the outer diameter of a 27.5" tire mounted and aired up, preferably a Chunky Monkey or an Ardent?

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    Maybe the front chainrings are irrelevant because most of them are 22, 32, 42t; it's the cogs on the back that make the difference for climbing, correct? Do I really have the same range on a 7-speed 14-28t that someone has on an 11-speed 10-46t? Again, you can argue math all day, but I notice a huge difference even between 14-28t and 11-30t. 14-28t is so bad that I like to double-upshift just to get anything meaningful out of the gears, so I often use 1, 3, 5, 7 in the middle gear and forget 2, 4, 6. Top speed on a 14t back, and high front ring is a pathetic 15 mph, it's more like 25 mph on an 11t. Is any of this news to you guys?
    OK forget all that, don't worry about what gears you have when trying to think about stuff, what you need to worry about when trying to figure out whats going on is a thing called Gear Inches,its a combo of the front chainring, the rear cog and the wheel size and tellsyou how many inches the wheel will travel depending on what gear you are in. You can find a few onine calculaters that will give you a chart and from that you can see the inches that each gear in a 1x will give you, but also a 2x and 3x.

    but anyway as a general guidling (not a rule) for your 3x7 setup, you use the 3 easist (biggest size) gears at the back in combo with the smallest chainring, the 3 middle cogs at the back with the middle chainring and the3 hardest (smallest size) with the big chainring.. that is how the setup is supposed to work, with a little more overlap when you really need to.


    But to add, yes 14-28 rear is pretty sucky, (but then I have a 12-28 9 speed on 1 bike and have no issues) but then thats what you get when you have a cheap bike, i have a 7 speed bike out n the back room with a 12-30 7 speed, but it has a 24-34-52 front on it from when I raced it DH back in 92, so plenty of top end.
    All the gear and no idea.

  6. #206
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    Easy way to compare two set-ups:

    Bicycle Gear Calculator
    "I love deadlines. I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by." -Douglas Adams.

  7. #207
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    Ha ha...DAMN I'M OLD!!!!! I started riding when I was six, bmx freestyle until I was 14, then moved to Mountian bikes. Raced competitively in 1995-1996, won a couple of races, placed 2nd or 3rd in many. All on my specialized I am riding now. Been around the block a time or ten for sure. also skateboarded street while riding freestyle as well. I should never have sold my Haro freestyle, or GT pro performer I had! they would be worth a lot now!!!!

  8. #208
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    Super busy at work so need to make this reply quick. About the pedals, you guys are RIGHT and I'm WRONG. Got the 26" bike back from the shop (installed different shifters, could not do it myself for some reason), the bottom pedal at the lowest point is 4.0 inches from the ground. The 27.5" pedal is 3.75 inches from the ground. WTF!?! Why does a higher pedal scrape more? My new theory: I roll over the rocks on the 27.5" quickly enough that the pedals pass over the rocks before they hit them. With the 26", I consciously avoid rocks so I'm in-between the rocks, therefore the rocks on the side of the tires end up scraping the pedals. Maybe that's too much of a stretch, I don't know.

  9. #209
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    I think it's placebo effect....that's all!

  10. #210
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    LOL, my pedals scrape more on the 26" period. They didn't scrape today. Took the 26" on the nearest 'real' downhill trail for the first time since I installed hydraulic brakes on both ends. Sooooo much nicer down the hill than mechanicals. However, the 27.5" does the trail end to end in 4 minutes flat, the 26" in 4 minutes 50 seconds. If and when I get a wider tire on the front that time may improve 10-15 seconds but it will not catch up to the 27.5"s time.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    LOL, my pedals scrape more on the 26" period. They didn't scrape today. Took the 26" on the nearest 'real' downhill trail for the first time since I installed hydraulic brakes on both ends. Sooooo much nicer down the hill than mechanicals. However, the 27.5" does the trail end to end in 4 minutes flat, the 26" in 4 minutes 50 seconds. If and when I get a wider tire on the front that time may improve 10-15 seconds but it will not catch up to the 27.5"s time.
    I'd say there's something wrong if you have nearly a minute of difference on a 4 minute trail. I've ridden the same bike in 26" and 650B configurations and there was no measurable difference for me. And that was on a 5-6 minute downhill.

  12. #212
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    I give up.
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  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    I'd say there's something wrong if you have nearly a minute of difference on a 4 minute trail. I've ridden the same bike in 26" and 650B configurations and there was no measurable difference for me. And that was on a 5-6 minute downhill.
    I say I agree. Either the brain chickens out because he's riding a 26r or his brakes are on all the time..ha ha.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Adams View Post
    Ha ha...DAMN I'M OLD!!!!! I started riding when I was six, bmx freestyle until I was 14, then moved to Mountian bikes. Raced competitively in 1995-1996, won a couple of races, placed 2nd or 3rd in many. All on my specialized I am riding now. Been around the block a time or ten for sure. also skateboarded street while riding freestyle as well. I should never have sold my Haro freestyle, or GT pro performer I had! they would be worth a lot now!!!!
    GT was and always will be the SHIZZLE in my book! Martin Aparijo BEEYOTCHES, YEAH!! I had a GT Vertigo street. Started riding freestyle during the Rad period in the 80's. Good memories!

    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    LOL, my pedals scrape more on the 26" period. They didn't scrape today. Took the 26" on the nearest 'real' downhill trail for the first time since I installed hydraulic brakes on both ends. Sooooo much nicer down the hill than mechanicals. However, the 27.5" does the trail end to end in 4 minutes flat, the 26" in 4 minutes 50 seconds. If and when I get a wider tire on the front that time may improve 10-15 seconds but it will not catch up to the 27.5"s time.
    They scrape more "period" because the geometry of the bikes. Not the wheel size. As far as times...I would probably lay down similar faster times on my local technical trails with a 29+ versus my 26 just because I have to actually pedal through tons of flat sections littered with softball-basketball sized rocks and rock formations / roots, etc...

    The rollover efficiency is undeniable. When the trail points down though...if there's a place here and there to catch some flow and be able to bump over / launch / jump rock sections...the difference is very small.

    I did a test on a really hairy loop on my rigid aluminum 26 versus my hardtail. Tons of chunk, very pedaly. I was able to complete the loop 8-minutes faster with a 140mm-forked hardtail. I never timed it on my Heckler, but I think another few minutes faster adding the 150mm rear suspension as well.

    Technology is there for a reason, but the difference in a 26x2.4 versus 27.5x2.4 with all else the same wouldn't really be all that noticeable to me. Bump to a 29er, 27.5+, or 29+ and the difference would be noticeable when momentum is used appropriately.

    Like I already stated some weeks earlier...you need to put yourself into other peoples shoes to really be able to make a blanket statement regarding whether or not this stuff is really worth the money.

    My previous trail network was fastest on a 26" rigid 22# rocket. My current trail network is much faster (as stated above) on my hardtail...and would be ideal for a Stumpy FSR 29 or Stache type setup. Throw in more rock shelf type structures, downhill, and ways to bounce through instead of pedal through chunky flat sections...and the 26" comes back to life for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by slapheadmofo View Post
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  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    I'd say there's something wrong
    I am inclined to agree with you.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    Never give up, it's too much fun.
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  17. #217
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    26? What's the point??!!-cool-hand-luke-lb-1.jpg

    Nothing is impossible?
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  18. #218
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    ... but sometimes you just gotta know when to stay down.


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  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    GT was and always will be the SHIZZLE in my book! Martin Aparijo BEEYOTCHES, YEAH!! I had a GT Vertigo street. Started riding freestyle during the Rad period in the 80's. Good memories!



    They scrape more "period" because the geometry of the bikes. Not the wheel size. As far as times...I would probably lay down similar faster times on my local technical trails with a 29+ versus my 26 just because I have to actually pedal through tons of flat sections littered with softball-basketball sized rocks and rock formations / roots, etc...

    The rollover efficiency is undeniable. When the trail points down though...if there's a place here and there to catch some flow and be able to bump over / launch / jump rock sections...the difference is very small.

    I did a test on a really hairy loop on my rigid aluminum 26 versus my hardtail. Tons of chunk, very pedaly. I was able to complete the loop 8-minutes faster with a 140mm-forked hardtail. I never timed it on my Heckler, but I think another few minutes faster adding the 150mm rear suspension as well.

    Technology is there for a reason, but the difference in a 26x2.4 versus 27.5x2.4 with all else the same wouldn't really be all that noticeable to me. Bump to a 29er, 27.5+, or 29+ and the difference would be noticeable when momentum is used appropriately.

    Like I already stated some weeks earlier...you need to put yourself into other peoples shoes to really be able to make a blanket statement regarding whether or not this stuff is really worth the money.

    My previous trail network was fastest on a 26" rigid 22# rocket. My current trail network is much faster (as stated above) on my hardtail...and would be ideal for a Stumpy FSR 29 or Stache type setup. Throw in more rock shelf type structures, downhill, and ways to bounce through instead of pedal through chunky flat sections...and the 26" comes back to life for me.


    Never give up, it's too much fun.
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    Maybe this belongs in the drivetrain section but if a 7-speed freewheel can only go up to 11-30t for climbing (the 14-34t freewheel supposedly sucks because it doesn't thread on right), then can you buy a triple crankset for the front that's less teeth? The smallest I've seen is 22-32-42 and I already have that. The smaller ones than that are for 9-10 speeds. Is there any 7-8 speed triple crankset that's smaller than 22-32-42? That way it could climb hills better without having to do a big wheel/shifter/cassette conversion.

    BTW the 2nd time with the 27.5" downhill on the aforementioned trail was 4 minutes 20 seconds, 30 seconds faster than the 26". The 27.5" has a front tire that is right now 0.55 inches wider, and the Tektro brakes seem noticeably stronger than the Hayes/Deore mix on the 26". That may account for most of the remaining time difference. The Deore also tends to lock up the rear tire a lot more than the Tektro does. I wish someone made a rear wheel-specific tire that had more lateral tread instead of front-back radial tread. The Continental Trail King and Mountain King visually are the closest to what I'm wanting but I actually had the Trail King on a previous bike and it was pretty disappointing on the back. Oh well.

  21. #221
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    I might be a bit late to jump in on this, but with having ridden bikes "properly" since the early 90's I've noticed a few things over recent years. Most of the hate towards the 26 wheel seems to be from those who have either not long started the sport and think because the 26 was before their time then it's just crap, or from the usual type of people that must have every bit of new "tech" to keep up with current trends...if it's not a must have tomorrow then it's a don't have...

    I still ride my 26 daily even though I have a 27.5 trail bike. On quite a few occasions I've had people struggle to keep up with me on the downs and guaranteed I'm probably having more fun than them too.

    For me personally I don't care what size wheels people ride and I won't judge them depending on their choices, but some people really do need to get a grip when they go on about older MTB standards. They will moan about an inch or so difference in wheel size, but will quite happily get moist when they see a retro car from their childhood roll past....oh the irony

  22. #222
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    you used to be able to get 20T(you don't necessarily need a crankset that goes that low, you need a chainring, on the assumption that it fits).

    SO your bike has a 7 speed freewheel? Yeah you don't want that (the freewheel) sell bike, buy something else.
    All the gear and no idea.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail_Fairy View Post
    I might be a bit late to jump in on this, but with having ridden bikes "properly" since the early 90's I've noticed a few things over recent years. Most of the hate towards the 26 wheel seems to be from those who have either not long started the sport and think because the 26 was before their time then it's just crap, or from the usual type of people that must have every bit of new "tech" to keep up with current trends...if it's not a must have tomorrow then it's a don't have...

    I still ride my 26 daily even though I have a 27.5 trail bike. On quite a few occasions I've had people struggle to keep up with me on the downs and guaranteed I'm probably having more fun than them too.

    For me personally I don't care what size wheels people ride and I won't judge them depending on their choices, but some people really do need to get a grip when they go on about older MTB standards. They will moan about an inch or so difference in wheel size, but will quite happily get moist when they see a retro car from their childhood roll past....oh the irony
    I agree 90%. Most of this 1x11 drivetrain and super-duper $1000 forks and carbon fiber, etc. for $1200 plus is NOT needed to have fun. All I'm saying is that I'm a beginner and I noticed early on that a 27.5" rolls over obstacles better than a 26". I was so naive when I first started the real trails that I didn't even know I bought a 27.5" until I took it into a bike shop to get a flat tire fixed, and again I still noticed a difference in rock clearance before I knew I was even riding a bike with a larger tire. So no placebo effect for that example. Not to beat a dead horse but when the 27.5's derailleur broke and cracked the frame, I went back to a 26" and then really noticed a problem in clearance compared with the former larger-tired bike. And again, not to reiterate ad nauseum, but how can someone like me clearly notice the difference and you guys cannot? When I put on a 26" x 2.4 hopefully that will clear some things up, because right now the 26 x 1.95 tire is struggling on downhill stuff. I don't want to go faster than 5-8 mph because I know eventually the 26" will crash on those rocky trails and those chipped rocks are not fun to land on. Much more confidence with the 27.5 x 2.5 tire.

  24. #224
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    I've never once said to myself upon not clearing a tricky section, "Must be my wheelsize".
    I've said to myself plenty of times "Jeez I sucked on that section today, I've gotta work on that" . the wise old adage of It's not the size that matters but how you use it rings true with bikes too

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    And again, not to reiterate ad nauseum, but how can someone like me clearly notice the difference and you guys cannot?
    It's magic. I touched on that last page.

  26. #226
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  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    I agree 90%. Most of this 1x11 drivetrain and super-duper $1000 forks and carbon fiber, etc. for $1200 plus is NOT needed to have fun. All I'm saying is that I'm a beginner and I noticed early on that a 27.5" rolls over obstacles better than a 26". I was so naive when I first started the real trails that I didn't even know I bought a 27.5" until I took it into a bike shop to get a flat tire fixed, and again I still noticed a difference in rock clearance before I knew I was even riding a bike with a larger tire. So no placebo effect for that example. Not to beat a dead horse but when the 27.5's derailleur broke and cracked the frame, I went back to a 26" and then really noticed a problem in clearance compared with the former larger-tired bike. And again, not to reiterate ad nauseum, but how can someone like me clearly notice the difference and you guys cannot? When I put on a 26" x 2.4 hopefully that will clear some things up, because right now the 26 x 1.95 tire is struggling on downhill stuff. I don't want to go faster than 5-8 mph because I know eventually the 26" will crash on those rocky trails and those chipped rocks are not fun to land on. Much more confidence with the 27.5 x 2.5 tire.
    Maybe different geometry? 2.5 tires vs 1.95?

    So what became of the 27.5 after the frame cracked? I'm guessing you bought it used so no warranty? What was it?
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  28. #228
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    ^yeah, what bikes are we talking about, cause geometry is more likely the issue than wheel size.
    All the gear and no idea.

  29. #229
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    26? What's the point??!!-image.png

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post


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    'You must spread some Rep around.."


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  31. #231
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    Huge difference between 1.95" and 2.5" tires. I'd start there. Unless the 2.5s are old Maxxis, in which case they might actually be 1.95.

  32. #232
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    All of a sudden, things are making sense to me.

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  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker24 View Post
    Huge difference between 1.95" and 2.5" tires. I'd start there. Unless the 2.5s are old Maxxis, in which case they might actually be 1.95.
    Watch, once I change from 26x1.95 to 26x2.4 all of a sudden most of the problems will go away, wouldn't that be funny. BTW serious question: does anyone run back tires that are specifically different than front and if so what you can recommend. I'm looking for something that grips uphill and doesn't slip much during braking downhill, 1.95 to 2.10 on the back is fine; I don't know if 2.35 or more will fit between the triangle on top.

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    Watch, once I change from 26x1.95 to 26x2.4 all of a sudden most of the problems will go away, wouldn't that be funny. BTW serious question: does anyone run back tires that are specifically different than front and if so what you can recommend. I'm looking for something that grips uphill and doesn't slip much during braking downhill, 1.95 to 2.10 on the back is fine; I don't know if 2.35 or more will fit between the triangle on top.
    Get these in Enduro and you won't be disappoint.

    Front: On-One Chunky Monkey 26"x2.4" Tyre | On - One
    Rear: On-One Smorgasbord 26"x2.25" Tyre | On - One

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Maybe different geometry? 2.5 tires vs 1.95?

    So what became of the 27.5 after the frame cracked? I'm guessing you bought it used so no warranty? What was it?
    LOL are you sure you want to know what the first 27.5" bike I had was? You'll put me on the ignore list for sure if I tell you. Before I tell you I swear this bike actually did real trails, not that it did them well, but I really did the hard trails out there for the first time ever with this bike. So I'll always have good memories about this bike even if it's a POS: Walmart $150 Kent RCT 27.5 inch. 42 lb aluminum hardtail frame, no quick-release front skewer, 60mm fork that was quite tooth-chattering, dual disk brakes that worked, barely, and as expected with this price range, a 3x7 drivetrain (the actual gearing was not horrible, it felt like 12-28t). For the money it was a great disposable bike. I have a $517 SE Bikes 27.5 hardtail now and it's light-years better for $367 more, standard hydraulic brakes, 100mm fork, etc. I'm absolutely addicted to hydraulic brakes now.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53119 View Post
    i absolutely and unequivocally give minusfks
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  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    LOL are you sure you want to know what the first 27.5" bike I had was? You'll put me on the ignore list for sure if I tell you. Before I tell you I swear this bike actually did real trails, not that it did them well, but I really did the hard trails out there for the first time ever with this bike. So I'll always have good memories about this bike even if it's a POS: Walmart $150 Kent RCT 27.5 inch. 42 lb aluminum hardtail frame, no quick-release front skewer, 60mm fork that was quite tooth-chattering, dual disk brakes that worked, barely, and as expected with this price range, a 3x7 drivetrain (the actual gearing was not horrible, it felt like 12-28t). For the money it was a great disposable bike. I have a $517 SE Bikes 27.5 hardtail now and it's light-years better for $367 more, standard hydraulic brakes, 100mm fork, etc. I'm absolutely addicted to hydraulic brakes now.
    ok, adding to ignore list…

    jk

    We all gotta start somewhere.
    "I love deadlines. I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by." -Douglas Adams.

  39. #239
    Titanium junkie
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    I will stick with 26"wheels, when I biffed it I didn't blame the bike or the wheel size, I
    blamed myself.......................
    Climb into the sky, never wonder why - Tailgunner
    You're a Tailgunner

  40. #240
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    Watch, once I change from 26x1.95 to 26x2.4 all of a sudden most of the problems will go away, wouldn't that be funny. BTW serious question: does anyone run back tires that are specifically different than front and if so what you can recommend. I'm looking for something that grips uphill and doesn't slip much during braking downhill, 1.95 to 2.10 on the back is fine; I don't know if 2.35 or more will fit between the triangle on top.
    Ask this in the wheels and Tires forum instead of derailing this already train-wrecked thread.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    For every time my 27.5 pedal on one side scrapes or brushes against something on the ground, it happens 20 times as much, sometimes violently, on the 26" bike. ?
    Like someone else said on this thread, you have to take geometry into account also, not just wheel size. I had a coworker who was a cat 1 racer on 26r and one day had to borrow a bike, which turned out to be 29r. He told me he'd never had so many pedal strikes on a bike, ever. Not all bikes are created equal and that includes geometry.

  42. #242
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    You're possibly more likely to get pedal-strike on a bike you're not familiar with, what the geometry. Maybe it takes time to learn to subconsciously know where your pedals are going to be.

    Still clatter mine all the time though ;0)

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by mik_git View Post
    you used to be able to get 20T(you don't necessarily need a crankset that goes that low, you need a chainring, on the assumption that it fits).

    SO your bike has a 7 speed freewheel? Yeah you don't want that (the freewheel) sell bike, buy something else.
    I've got a 20t in my parts bin. That thing is fun!

    Quote Originally Posted by crewjones View Post
    I've never once said to myself upon not clearing a tricky section, "Must be my wheelsize".
    I've said to myself plenty of times "Jeez I sucked on that section today, I've gotta work on that" . the wise old adage of It's not the size that matters but how you use it rings true with bikes too
    True, true. But on the flip side, I know I can expend less energy on some of my chunky trails rolling wagon wheels and look smooth doing it compared to my 26" hardtail.

    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    Ask this in the wheels and Tires forum instead of derailing this already train-wrecked thread.
    This thread is like a Thanksgiving dinner. I just keep coming back for more. Taking advice from a total noob is icing on the cake.

  44. #244
    Desert of the real
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loudviking View Post
    I will stick with 26"wheels, when I biffed it I didn't blame the bike or the wheel size, I
    blamed myself.......................
    "A thoughtful and lucid answer. YOU WILL BE DESTROYED!!!"

    --Morbo

  45. #245
    Special Ed
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    Man, discussions like these harden my heart for the sport. Just like quite a few others on here, I started Mtnbkg in the early 90s and have loved it ever since. I've made a lot of friends that way and have had some really awesome experiences. At that time, you would come across another Mtnbkr and you could guarantee they were pretty cool. One of the best group of guys you could know. It's how I encouraged my friends to get a bike and join me and they immediately noticed the same. No one cared what bike you had, what gear or even what you wore. Hell, if you were in cut off jeans and a skateboard helmet, the more experienced and hardcore you looked and it typically fit. They were the badasses on the trail.

    Then, all of a sudden it seemed there was a riff. Something changed overnight. Pretty boys were too worried about how they looked and what they rode instead of how they rode. They'd scuff at guys like me with my properly used bike and gear but then we'd proceed to whip their tail on the trail. New riders weren't and aren't as friendly anymore. So many of them turn out to be A-holes who fly on by a downed rider or will stick their nose up at you.

    We shouldn't have to ever make these stupid points on these types of threads anymore. Only thing to say is to get the gear that works for *you*. 26 works for me because I'm 5'8'. A 29 fits my brother because he's 6'4". Simple. Neither is better than the other, just the best for each others size. I'd be a fool to be on a 29r. He looked like a giant on a 26r.

    I've had an Elsworth Truth since '01 and will always continue to ride it. Wouldn't trade that 26 for anything. It fits me, is one bada$$ bike and I haven't been on another like it that has catered to my style so well.

    Now I'm getting my son involved in mountain biking. We take his BMX 20in out because it fits him and he's doing great things with it. Even though he's enjoying it immensely, I get pissed at the looks and side marks he receives especially from those that have no clue what they're doing. When he's older and bigger and has mastered maneuvering a bike around, he'll get a bigger bike and then learn the next step of gearing. Again, simple but it's those other pathetic riders that are starting to turn us away from it and it shouldn't be that way.

    Wish everyone would take a chill pill, step away from this marketing BS that has destroyed the camaraderie of this sport, and go back to enjoying it as it was. Get on a bike, any bike, head to the trail and enjoy.
    'Things you own...begin owning you.'

  46. #246
    VENI VEDI BIKI
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    Why 26....

    1. It works and is fun
    2. I am not racing.
    3. I don't have the time anymore to play the upgrade game.
    4. I like working on my bikes and am happy with tech from 1 gen. ago.
    5. I don't need thru axles, carbon rims, 1.11 drive trains, dropper seat posts, and 12 inches of dual suspension to enjoy midwest singletrack.
    6. Some days I would rather go a tad (and it is a "tad") slower and enjoy working through tech sections instead of bombing through them.
    7. I'm short and my size S. 29er gets ton of toe overlapp, pedal strike, and bottom bracket strikes when rolling drops.
    8. My weight is more of a performance detractor than my bike...
    Veni Vidi Biki

    I came, I saw, I biked.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by slapheadmofo View Post
    'You must spread some Rep around.."


    "There are some men you just can't reach".
    I didn't reply to this because it would just keep this going thread going 'round, but since it won't stop:

    I was expecting neg rep for posting a Steve Miller Band video, lol!

    Vid is kinda cool if you ask me.

  48. #248
    ILIKEBIKES
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    I didn't reply to this because it would just keep this going thread going 'round, but since it won't stop:

    I was expecting neg rep for posting a Steve Miller Band video, lol!

    Vid is kinda cool if you ask me.
    I saw Steve Miller last year with Tower of Power and Journey. They all rocked...

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjchad View Post
    I saw Steve Miller last year with Tower of Power and Journey. They all rocked...
    They're coming thru town here soon, maybe I should check them out?

    Not sure I could handle Journey tho.

  50. #250
    Cycologist
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    They're coming thru town here soon, maybe I should check them out?

    Not sure I could handle Journey tho.
    lol, I'm with you on that.
    "I love deadlines. I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by." -Douglas Adams.

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